About the wow and flutter - due to lack of familiarity with the new software the W&F measurement method I used wasn't correct. I used quasi-peak when I wanted WRMS. When I did measure WRMS on this deck several days after editing, I got 0.07%. So this deck is performing roughly on par with my Nakamichi BX-150.
@Oklawolf aaahh great! Got it thank u kindly. Also many thanks for wonderful videos, content and educating us. Waiting on a JVC KD A5 (pardon me if I got the model wrong). Recent service and has a couple things needed to be done (the record LED is out) and a couple adjustments here and there.
Useless fact(s): That's exactly on a par with my well cared for 1977 JVC KD-720. It's a deck with a history as I'm an electronics engineer so have modified it extensively over the years including disabling the otherwise permanent MPX filters, replacing the original worn R/P head with a generic but good head I have plentiful stock of, and adding a custom-peaked bandpass filter in the playback stage to compensate for low and high frequency head losses that also acts as a subsonic rumble filter. It's reasonably flat from 25Hz to 17kHz @-20dB with a cheap TDK FE Type I tape, so it's a bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing for an oldie.
Sorry to hear you had such a rough week. Thanks for the kind words, We think you're awesome as well! I wanted to tell you something for a while now. Those Chinese made Mabuchi clones have absolutely NO lubrication in them whatsoever!! If you pry the back bearing off and put a drop of oil in the little pot between the brushes, you'll see a significant improvement in speed stability. (VWestlife made this claim in a video and he was absolutely right.) I tried it, it works. Keep the videos coming but don't stress yourself out too much. Take care of yourself.
Good job, man. Thank you for sharing this video. Does somebody know a reason for the tape guide is being spot-welded on the left side of the Rec/Playback head unit (near to the erase head, see 36:34 )? I saw this arrangement on some SONY decks, too. I think it is inferior to the standard configuration, at least in the terms of stability of azimuth. This way the tape could be astray due to the inhomogeneity of the pinch roller. In other words, the tape path in the vicinity of the PB head is not so well-defined.
I have two V770 and the one has a small problem The fluorescent display is a little bit dim in the edges,near around -40 dB and near +12db...and also on the symbols of tape types,normal,cr,metal... What are the possible problems for that dimness??? Capacitors on the PCB of fluorescent display???
About the wow and flutter - due to lack of familiarity with the new software the W&F measurement method I used wasn't correct. I used quasi-peak when I wanted WRMS. When I did measure WRMS on this deck several days after editing, I got 0.07%. So this deck is performing roughly on par with my Nakamichi BX-150.
Nice. What is WRMS? I know RMS is Root Mean Square. Is the W for Wow?
It stands for Weighted Root Mean Square, where the calculations are done with human hearing taken into account.
@Oklawolf aaahh great! Got it thank u kindly. Also many thanks for wonderful videos, content and educating us.
Waiting on a JVC KD A5 (pardon me if I got the model wrong). Recent service and has a couple things needed to be done (the record LED is out) and a couple adjustments here and there.
Useless fact(s): That's exactly on a par with my well cared for 1977 JVC KD-720. It's a deck with a history as I'm an electronics engineer so have modified it extensively over the years including disabling the otherwise permanent MPX filters, replacing the original worn R/P head with a generic but good head I have plentiful stock of, and adding a custom-peaked bandpass filter in the playback stage to compensate for low and high frequency head losses that also acts as a subsonic rumble filter. It's reasonably flat from 25Hz to 17kHz @-20dB with a cheap TDK FE Type I tape, so it's a bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing for an oldie.
I wish you lived around here (California central coast) so I could pick these decks up at the thrift store here!
Excelente trabalho 👏👏
Sorry to hear you had such a rough week.
Thanks for the kind words, We think you're awesome as well!
I wanted to tell you something for a while now. Those Chinese made Mabuchi clones have absolutely NO lubrication in them whatsoever!! If you pry the back bearing off and put a drop of oil in the little pot between the brushes, you'll see a significant improvement in speed stability. (VWestlife made this claim in a video and he was absolutely right.) I tried it, it works.
Keep the videos coming but don't stress yourself out too much. Take care of yourself.
Aww thanks for kind compliments & you're very welcome. I'm happy with your channel & its videos and information. Greetings from Trinidad😊
its amazing to see the packaging that sony's repair parts come in! not a sight we see often.
nice work, i just serviced my v770. i look forward to seeing how good yours sounds.
Nice work mate! And finally you got that T100 software - it is very useful and you will love it :) Cheers!
Dobar posao 👌
9:24 love that you're giving people these decks! So generous of you
Good job, man. Thank you for sharing this video. Does somebody know a reason for the tape guide is being spot-welded on the left side of the Rec/Playback head unit (near to the erase head, see 36:34 )? I saw this arrangement on some SONY decks, too. I think it is inferior to the standard configuration, at least in the terms of stability of azimuth. This way the tape could be astray due to the inhomogeneity of the pinch roller. In other words, the tape path in the vicinity of the PB head is not so well-defined.
I have two V770 and the one has a small problem
The fluorescent display is a little bit dim in the edges,near around -40 dB and near +12db...and also on the symbols of tape types,normal,cr,metal...
What are the possible problems for that dimness???
Capacitors on the PCB of fluorescent display???
Sounds like it may just have high hours on it if the rest of the display is bright. Not a bad idea to check solder joints, voltages, and caps anyway.
@Oklawolf I'll check, thanks for your response ✌️