2:07:59 Видны два винта (типа гужон) на платформе под головкой R/P обеспечивающие регулировку высоты и кивка. Винт с пружиной не для регулировки, а для свободы настройки азимута. Сам азимут настраивается винтом без пружины. Ну и не забыть настроить глубину захода головок: R/P по рискам шаблона WHS-300, при этом головка стирания по глубине заходит меньше на 0.15 мм. Но! Головку стирания лучше настроить до головки R/P. Высоту - винт с пружиной, кивок - гнуть и азимут - шайбы у винта без пружин. Азимут стирающей головки не нужно совсем точно, достаточно что бы поверхность головки не уводила ленту в сторону по тонкой ленте C-120 и было прилегание на всей поверхности.
hey there love watching your vids. i have a question for you. i am in middle of trying to restore a deck for a friend he loves and doesn't want to let go of for nostalgia. when i did basic mechanical work first i got it new belts that are proven to work for others with this deck well but i still had a lot of w&f and when i looked on a scope i saw this had a pretty low level 60hz signal in the audio output with a ton of harmonic distortion showing. i've never seen that on another deck i have worked on and i see one cap on the psu board that looks like it leaked but the stuff that is on the board doesn't look like anything i have seen leak out before it looks like caramel sauce ( you can see it on one of the same exact brand caps in this video at 13:12 )almost like old hot glue yet this is the only cap with this anywhere near it and there is no bulging at all. so the question is do you think that is likely the culprit? there is no visible corrosion and the cap still reads decent specs but i'm considering recapping the psu board to start but don't wanna go too far with recapping the whole board as this was supposed to be a quick clean and replace belts situation and i am doing it as a favor.
That's glue - the same stuff that goes conductive that I had to clean up off most of these boards. However, if the glue on the cap isn't contacting any traces it's not likely the problem. Hum could be a grounding issue.
Wow great video👍
Very entertaining 2 hours ! Can`t wait....
Head height is done with those two allen key screws
That's a really complex mechanism ....
2:07:59 Видны два винта (типа гужон) на платформе под головкой R/P обеспечивающие регулировку высоты и кивка. Винт с пружиной не для регулировки, а для свободы настройки азимута. Сам азимут настраивается винтом без пружины. Ну и не забыть настроить глубину захода головок: R/P по рискам шаблона WHS-300, при этом головка стирания по глубине заходит меньше на 0.15 мм. Но! Головку стирания лучше настроить до головки R/P. Высоту - винт с пружиной, кивок - гнуть и азимут - шайбы у винта без пружин. Азимут стирающей головки не нужно совсем точно, достаточно что бы поверхность головки не уводила ленту в сторону по тонкой ленте C-120 и было прилегание на всей поверхности.
hey there love watching your vids. i have a question for you. i am in middle of trying to restore a deck for a friend he loves and doesn't want to let go of for nostalgia. when i did basic mechanical work first i got it new belts that are proven to work for others with this deck well but i still had a lot of w&f and when i looked on a scope i saw this had a pretty low level 60hz signal in the audio output with a ton of harmonic distortion showing. i've never seen that on another deck i have worked on and i see one cap on the psu board that looks like it leaked but the stuff that is on the board doesn't look like anything i have seen leak out before it looks like caramel sauce ( you can see it on one of the same exact brand caps in this video at 13:12 )almost like old hot glue yet this is the only cap with this anywhere near it and there is no bulging at all. so the question is do you think that is likely the culprit? there is no visible corrosion and the cap still reads decent specs but i'm considering recapping the psu board to start but don't wanna go too far with recapping the whole board as this was supposed to be a quick clean and replace belts situation and i am doing it as a favor.
That's glue - the same stuff that goes conductive that I had to clean up off most of these boards. However, if the glue on the cap isn't contacting any traces it's not likely the problem. Hum could be a grounding issue.
could the teac v770 be the next one you work on? i just got my 770 and put a new belt kit in it
I may - this was a rough week and I don't know if I have time to finish up that Sony. The Teac has been waiting for me forever.
VR1 probably speed adjustment.
Speed is controlled by the PLL circuit. More likely it's a duty cycle control, like on the Sony TC-K666ES.