Nitro Engine Break In - How, Why & What You Are Doing Wrong!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2021
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I tried the normal method like this, it worked well. I used about $20 in fuel before hitting the track and I had to use a hair-dryer as I didn't have a heat gun. I did a drake-in oil bath engine and it saved money on fuel for the initial running and then saved me the time at home.... so if you have time and fuel, DIY is totally good and I would follow this method.
Thanks for taking the time to make this. I’m new into this and just got myself a nitro RC. Subscribed and will continue to tune in for more knowledge.
Excellent scientific and yet simple introduction to breaking in the engine
You speak very clearly, have a good voice and are extremely knowledgeable. Thank you for the great videos and for all the time and energy that you put into them. Long live NITRO Rc Vehicles!!🔥🔥🔥!!
Great Video man. Thanks for the top notch education. I made notes, and i will follow them when i get my next engine soon. Cheers
JQ - you nailed it man.
Broke in my engine in the same way and its been very reliable since 👍🏾
Thanks JQ! Happy New Year!
This is great information, thanks for your time to do this. 🤝
Excellent guide, thanks for demonstrating every step.
i just upgraded to 2.4 ghz radio and receiver on my rc10 gt2. great video. already broke it in a few years ago. hair dryers work great on a stuck piston too.
You're all right, you always make RC things with clever and good methods 👍‼️💯🔥🏁🏎️🤓🇫🇷
Great video with all the perfect details. Thank you.
The knowledge and information in this video is great 👍
great explanation, thanks👍🏻
Been in the RC world for a long time. Basher, racer, on road, off road, whatever! I'm 52, seen it all!🙄
This is BY FAR one of the best engine break-in videos I've seen to date. Why, because he EXPLAINS why. I'm an old guy that is not only a RC nut but a machinist by trade. I know metallurgy and how different metal and alloys react differently to heat and STRESS. These insanely powerful lil' two strokes need heat cycles to properly break-in. Plus, even when using temp guns, you still can't see internal temps. (IE; wrist pin, crank journal, ect) Old rule of thumb taught to me was "Twelve tanks now for 12 gallons later."-12 tank break in "Smoke or go broke"-run rich. That was with complete cooldowns between each also.
Ya you can maybe save some time to have a paid method to pre-break-in your break-in.
To me it's a lazy method out, Like buying a box of sharpened pencils!
All you guys flappin' your tongues about oil bathes this, send it that, crack me up!😂
Great HOW-TO Video
thats a cool saying. I am sure its sound advice.. I am currently breaking in a Kyosho MP9 TKI4 RTR
The next thing I need to do is subscribe to this channel. Done. Can’t wait to watch all of your videos
Again thanks for making the break in make sense have six rtr electric start nitro cars have my first pull start all most gave up will do back plate plate and bump box but need to know how to use pull start what I needed was understanding of breaking in 🎉 thanks so much for helping God Bless 🙏💖
Great Video JQ !.....very useful for beginners and intermediates !
I think even for Pros
We need a company that offers qualoty racing engine for cheap in 2021. I find people leaning more to electric due to hassle and price point up front..... 400-500-800 for an engine without exhaust plus all maintenance is slowly killing the nitro hobby. In 90's early 2000 we had so many alternative brands now we have like 3 and sub branded engines making pricing so high and demand is lower too.
Look into the REDS 521 .21 Sport 3-port or the Flash Point FP02 .21 3-Port
@@BennnyGee Yes sir the flash point 02 is just as good as the Drake engine and a hell of a lot cheaper
Hobao Ofna make engines for 150 euros including exhaust and clutch
Look into SH competition engines...they have 4-5 budget friendly nice .21 race quility 3 needle carb engines. 3,5,8 port all less then $169 bucks. And sh has good engines hell they make 90% of RTR engines I'm sure there smart enough to make race engines. I have the green cooling head 8 port .21 in a hobao Truggy and it tosses it around track just as my $700 reds 721. Idk
Look at alpha Dragon / Argus for something budget. Cheap nitro Combos are always frustrating imo. Nitro is better experience with quality engine combo
Very informative video if I ever need to break in any of my engines I will come back here
Great 2 cents sir
Very helpful . Thanks .
Good tech vid bro #RaceReds 💯😎💪🔥🔥
Great info man👍 been in the hobby for over 30 years and I will always be a nitro man😁 proper break in is the most important thing next to after run procedure alot of guys don't take the time to do this and eventually they destroy their engines....if you want your engine to last then make sure you perform the after run procedures 👍stay safe guys and gals and rip crash repair repeat 😁✌
I wont disagree although everyone talks about proper break ins and then everyone breaks in a new engine on every event...
@@akiga3258 right lol that ought to tell you something 🤔😁✌🏽
@@scu-dub that it doenst matter....cause engines are not for a lifetime
after run procedures?? please do explain
Very good video thankyou
I’ve broken in many engines this way over the years, these heat cycle are the best for breaking in any nitro engine, oil baths are ok i guess but this way is the best for engine longevity
when would you change the bearing a rod. I'm about to run in my first engine with the local club. and they have suggested me to get another rod and bearing.
would you or anyone suggest this.
Great !! What Oil / Fuel mixture is recommended for breaking in?
JQ!N Great Video! I was wondering if you or anyone has any suggestions on how to properly store the engine (after break in) for times like off season or long periods in between races. I believe Mayfield or Drake says to use a drop or 2 of oil in the carb before storage. Any tips would be appreciated! Thank you!
When I first seen you on the track, I thought you were wearing a white helmet. I was thinking to myself. Damn this dude about to hop into this thing… And then I realized that I was really high. So much that I don’t even own an RC car or a nitro engine and I have no idea how I ended up watching this whole video
Great video 🧿💯🇬🇷
It amazing guys 👍🇮🇩
Hello boss, do you have the inside of sleeve picture to show us which is break in already and which is not yet?
JQ we need another upload !! Or a live! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼 time for a beer
buy the course and I'll do a live and upload a video
@@invisiblespeedrc Finally making the purchase next week 👊🏼
@@invisiblespeedrc Thanks for the free content you’ve been posting as well. It has motivated me to purchase the course for sure
i am restarting my old hobby stil have my cars and i had a serpent with 3.5cc engine last time it run 2016 stil new not even run in right i think 2 full tanks in. When i was there i learned from older gentlemen. He tuned my car and give me tips but after lets say 1 day of little tuning etc. he send me on my way to drive on track but now now i see this way i have som questions in my mind because i really would like to keep this engine alive longer
1 do i need after lets say the break in new glow plug
2 should i always pre heat it for running i wanna keep this engine alive for long time
3 and after long time sitting i was thinking of inspecting the engine first because i don't know if i stored it away good with old fuel or not
luckily it's not on top dead center and should i pre oil it and than heat it or just oil of the fuel i am learning my self to do everything to be a beter builder and keeping this engine alive much thanks for this video
I always drop a few drop of 3 an 1 oil, then I heat the motor with a heat gun...makes real easy to start
Wassup homie,I miss ya old brown eyes,you been real good bhoyw
its a good and helpful video, but would make more sense to see more details about your new mx8 !!!
Get the membership
Truth! Same way we do for 2 stroke engine.
This is a 2 stroke engine🤷🏻♂️
@@davidbuhler9022 I know! In rc world we just call it nitro and the 1/5 scale gas we call it two stroke.
@@sd_rcfanatic157 ok sry👍🏻
Its interesting that in RC car world ringed and ringless engine’s become the same run inn procedure (overrich)
While in RC airplain world
different procedure s are recommended.
i hope alot of yall realize this is really for ppl who actually race nitro buggy/truggy .....but overall grear way to break in all nitro engines to givem a longer life and better performance
What happened to beach rc? Heard there not carrying mayako?
are there anymore JQ rtr buggy?..i can't afford the KIT
LOL Lefty is the Great!
10:26 Another way to prime the engine w/o adding unnecessary stress to the rod is to cover the exhaust tip with your finger while opening the fuel tank lid and letting it snap shut about 4 times. It's also nice in that it preserves the starter box battery and rubber wheel a bit too.
Or just blow in the pressure line with the throttle open until the air is gone.
@@PSA78 I've heard of some people getting fuel shot in their mouth doing that lol. I think if the tank's filled up to the pressure inlet, then when it depressurizes it can push fuel back up the pressure line. Might depend on the shape of the tank too. And my pressure lines always get baked onto the exhaust fitting, making them somewhat difficult to remove.
@@cbh148 I guess anything is possible if you're unlucky. 🤷♂️😂
I only do it during break-in usually, when it's important to have some fuel in the engine, as I go through the engine before it's already lubed well. 👍
I've been blowing in my pressure line for 20 years, and never got fuel in my mouth. 🤷🏻
@@davelowets Happened to Nitro Freak in one of his videos. And besides, snapping the lid is faster.
Very well explained! Another topic. I like the feeling of the combustion engine, but not adjust that. Many have switched from combustion to electric because of the carburetor. Who is finally building an electronic injection?
Nobody.
Because it is already only 3 adjuster! How many adjustments you have on your buggy? 50?
Do you need an electronic suspension?
@@davidbuhler9022 50? more! It is not a question of the complexity of the matter. The procedure until the engine runs properly is too time-consuming for me to drive for a short time. some are just a genius.
@@dietmarfinster3176 No time to set a carb? That’s sad to hear 😞
@@davidbuhler9022 thanks for the irony. Greetings nobody.
Is it safe to put a couple of drops of WD-40 in the cylinder head of a new engine before break in?
I did the oil bath but i am extremely new too rc and i have no idea what im doing.. how do you feel about breaking a engine during cold winter temps its 10°-15° c currently outside need to break a motor in.
Wait till >+10C if possible
my engine does not want to start, brought to factory settings and it goes off again after 1 second. What do I have to adjust so that it at least stays on, the engine is new and I want to break it in
9:00 🤣🤣
Curious to know what your thoughts are for preheating engines after the 12 tanks (roughly 1.5 L) break-in is complete. Do you recommend preheating every time, even after the piston/sleeve has, say, 3 gallons or more on it? I've had trouble getting a piston/sleeve to last beyond about 3.5 gallons before losing too much pinch/compression (signified by the usual behavior of becoming impossible to get a stable idle, frequent flame-outs, etc.) and I'm trying to fix my methods by preheating every single time, but I don't know if that's been the issue or if it's beneficial at all past a certain number of gallons.
Engines last a lot longer if you pre heat them. A LOT!
@@invisiblespeedrc That’s what I was thinking. Glad to hear I’m on the right track. Thanks
@@cbh148 have you had better look heating them up before every time?
@@chrishiggins7475 I can’t say I’ve noticed a drastic increase in piston/sleeve life as I still haven’t passed my record of 3.5 gallons, but I’ve only had 1 piston/sleeve wear out in the 9 months since I made my initial comment. And that was with preheating to 200F every single time.
If my next piston/sleeve wears out around 2.5-4 gallons, I might stop preheating every time beyond the first gallon as it’s a nuisance.
great video , do you lean the LSN to keep it rich ?
All the tuning steps are shown in the video
run it in fast it'll be fast! thats what i tell myself anyway lol
Novarossi break in engines at 40,000rpm on the bench that will do for me.
I would say “festina lente”
Kev you should give this chanel a shout out for nitro guys and gals some realy good content for them here he deserves it
or you could watch the video, make notes, take your time, do the five idle tanks, and do things properly the way an expert would. time to take off your childrens clickbait business channel hat for once and learn good. this is the channel for you to finally learn how a carb works instead of asking others everytime. the satisfaction will be rewarding once you figure it out (if you ever)
Novarossi went bankrupt
What happen if u can't get a hold of a tep gun
Thanks for these vids. Man ohhh. Man I don’t need a kick in the balls lololol. My second new motor I have and I want to break it in perfect 👍🤩
It’s for me due to winter months an during spring months I’m making $$to race it’s a convenient thing for me an no it’s not a must do the old way is fine if you have the time it’s for me easier to enjoy
Hello, one question. I have touch the MRN🙄🙄...i knew never touch it🤣... How can I set the mid range needle? Can I unscrew the HSN. and should the hole in the MRN. be completely visible in the direction of the opening of the HSN.? Its a Hyper 30 Turbo motor. THX very much for help
set as explained in the video th-cam.com/video/zLqwj41Q2YQ/w-d-xo.html
So just to make sure i understand everything:
- Two tanks in idle, holding the temperature in between 100°C and 110°C, without letting the engine cool in between the tanks.
- Five tanks driving in figure eights with a tune that is fat but allows the motor to hold it's temperature when covered. (Is there a cool off process in between the tanks, or five tanks straight without cooling?)
- Another five tanks driving in figure eights where i start to tune the engine to a point where it holds its temperature without any cover. (Is there a coll of process in between the tanks, or again five tanks straight without colling it down?)
Did i get it right? If so, i will use this method on my new REDS Engine. Would be nice if you could shortly repsponse to my question if it's possible for you, thanks.
Idle tanks temp might be a bit lower, 70-100.
No cool down for the 5 tanks, as in the video
@@invisiblespeedrc Thanks a lot 👍
Are you discontinuing the JQ cars to focus on teh Mayako? or whats teh dea.
One year ago buddy
What if there is a service that does all of the above for you? Or how about we deal with all that b.s. wonder what's it worth monetary wise?
first you need to build a reputation. second you need some form of insurance just for the simple reason there are engines wich are "bad from factory allready"..best engine brands there is 1of100 wich will never perform or break early.
people are very picky about their fuel often.
and it's a lot of time investment needed to break an engine in, most people would not want to pay that much if we speeking european or US pay per hour.
oilbath kinda pays itself because you start it and do other things meanwhile.
What about outdoor temperature? I read some people say, dont break in or even run a nitro engine if outdoor temperature is below +10 celsius?
As long as you pre-heat the engine it is safe?
When I filmed this is was below 10
It's extremely difficult as everything is in a constant balance, heat, fuel flow (air/fuel ratio) etc. I monitor it extremely closely and I usually avoid it bellow 15c, if I can.
PS A its no problem to run engines in cold weather. Pre heat, and if you find your engine running cold wrap some fabric or paper around the cooling head
@@invisiblespeedrc It's escalating quickly in the amount of work that's needed to monitor the engine and keeping it happy to the point where it's just a lot easier and safer to wait if it's possible.
I usually have a variety of cooling heads (sizes) on hand, different types of wrapping and I optimize the oil package and nitro content for every step of the break-in.
The temperature of the head doesn't say everything unfortunately, the fuel flow that's contributing to a lot of the cooling on these engines will impact how the piston expands compared to the sleeve, that's why throttle, load, rpm for instance will change things as well.
I know, I know, at some point you have to accept that you can't control everything and just get on with it, I'm just pointing out that if there's an option of waiting then it will be in favor for both beginners as well as experienced. 😄
@PS A we race in below 10C all the time, its not a problem. Stop worrying too much about your engine. It’s not overly conplicated or demanding
I bought a brand new nitro rc fresh out the box went to brake in engine and super gear grid down with in the first hour what could of went wrong
Sper gear
So i bought a new piston and sleeve and conrod for my novarossi rex5 plus 21 do i need to break it in again with new piston sleeve and rod
yes, thats what you are breaking in on a new engine. Those are the wearing parts
Ok thanks
The whole purpose of the oil bath is to lap the piston kinda like lapping valves on a 4 stroke. It does, like you said, makes the break in procedure easier. The other theory behind the oil bath is that your connecting rod will last longer because there’s less stress on it during your first tanks running the engine since the oil bath loosens up the pinch a bit
Someone didn’t watch the whole video 🧐
Lmfao!
@@invisiblespeedrc I watched every second of it. I just wanted to say something about the oil bath stuff. It makes more sense for someone who doesn’t have the patience or is really busy to send out their engine and have it pre-“broken in”. I haven’t used the oil bath “break in” before and I don’t know if I will. It’s not a necessity for the average person in the hobby, but for a racer that has their time occupied by a bunch of other things, sending out a few engines to have them pre-broken in is a time saver as they only have to run 4-6 tanks through their engine before they run it at a race. Even with the oil bath, engines still take about a gallon of fuel run through them until the piston and sleeve are a perfect fit so the engine can run with optimal performance and fuel economy. Every engine I’ve broken in has been with a method similar to yours and they all run great. There’s nothing wrong with either method.
i used oilbath on some recent engines.
my experience is that engines free up a lot around tank 3-5 after oilbath. me personal i think the classic manual method is the best for the engine if we talk expected lifetime. like JQ mentioned because the engine has it's natural heat zones all the time from the beginning.
oil bath makes it easier and earlier to race an engine if it's new. the best long term results i see for me and around my area have been 9 out of 10 classic manual break in. IF people know what they are doing because --->good manual classic break in>oil bath>bad manual classic break in
Been doing the same as this for 25 years and never had one failure or problem.
Also to note when you even get the engine run in still pre heat the engine and chassis as then your engine will be on temp and the tune will be the same as the last time you run the engine. Just commonsense
So why did novarossi factory put a large plane prop on the new engine and run it at wide open throttle for 20 mins? That always seemed crazy to Me and they charged a premium for it!?
But maybe not with only 9% oil in the fuel ???
From what I understood..
Pre-heat engine before starting, at around 80-90 degrees you can turn it on and reach operating temperatures (100-115 degrees) and run 2 tanks at idle. After that run 5 tanks (slow and smooth throttle aplication while running figure 8's, all the while monitoring temperature) 15 min break and then run 5 more tanks progressively adding a bit of speed but still keeping it smooth. After that it's ready for the track and to begin tuning correct?
Are the 5 tank intervals run continuously or is there a break inbetween tanks?
I noticed there was some LSN adjustment during the break in process, was this done to increase engine temperature or was there another reason for it?
Thanks in advance, love your videos!
Isnt it a bitch if people dont wanna answer a novice his questions??
The one good thing about an oil bath is like any motor when you break in an engine you get metal parts rubbing together which leaves behind metal. Take 8000 grit sand paper or a brown paper bag same grit rub it on metal the dark color on the paper is in fact metal so the oil bath will pull those metal particles into the oil instead of having to run those bits out the exhaust, oil traps metal thats why cars have filters but in this case we don’t filters. That black pavement you think thats unburnt oil or fuel? Send it in to an oil analysis company its contains lots of metal. What is ideal is a road with steep incline high load going up coast down, you want the parts to fit together best under full load, internal micro heat cycles. Best broken in motors are one broken in with higher loads they break in faster gets that metal out and the motor knows when its up to operating race condition and you ask for all the beans its gonna give it to ya, once upon a time, a 3 time 1/8th scale state champion. Just my experience, thanks for your time.
Ok so the oil bath is a bath of oil with metsl particles in it that you are using to wear out your engine. Great….
@@invisiblespeedrc No its somewhere for any initial metal to be suspended in the oil which has a much greater volume rather than having to run it though the engine, these engine don’t have a way to trap those break in pieces, the only way an engine not pre broke in can get rid of anything is suck, bang, blow, there is nowhere else for those particles to go, and I think we can both agree there will be metal that’s part of any break in.
I was just trying to point out that one of the possible benefits might be that one or 2 quarts of oil in those baths that is a much greater volume to trap metal wear, than the max 30% per gallon, We run in the nitro. Is it no, I would love to see some controlled experiment much like project farm does with his experiments and have one of these ran through a bath and one broken with your break-in suggestions and then run them full-tilt, full- load, till one dies or they pop, will the glow plug on the one that’s in been in the oil bath last longer? You got the resources and the connections, call OS and make it let’s make it happen. In there laboratory. The research and development lab is quite amazing.
Yes except the particles are in the oil, vs removed through the exhaust
i agree with all that things, except for one, why you shut down the engine occluding the exhaust? i assume that you know how exhaust pipe works on a two stroke engine i think that can damage the engine. its just my opinion that you can change if well expleined. thank you, its been a long time from youre last video i imagine its because of mayako prototype (great car!)
It can’t damage the engine but it can damage the plug I guess.
can i ask you a random question,do you use or recomend using a fuel filter?ty
There is a filter inside the tank
@@invisiblespeedrc id not think of that,thankou very much
The filter in the tank is very coarse and will allow dirt to pass. Always run an additional inline fuel filter.
@@jonpye8655 you do not need to
@@jonpye8655 ty would u have one to sugest?
What is the safest temperature that the new nitro rc needs to be at
When your pre heating the engine
My personal opinion is that an engine will only truly mate the parts when it has got hot and cooled several dozen times. Idling on a tank is not achieving much. I just drive it around gently to get it hit then let it cool and give it a break and then repeat . The most important thing is not stressing a new engine when it is not very hot.
Thats why you idle it a couple tanks first
U can know it from the sound. temperature will be allright when u have mixture right. And when the sound gets straight with no let's say cracking ur all good...
Break in 4 tanks standing. And 6 tanks on asphalt.
Each tank.. raise the throttle, and (lower the mixture needle till the second turn) till u reach full throttle. Thats it!. Easy peasy. Then fix the low speed needle...
you cannot know from the sound that the temperature is ok during break in.
Is that air filter pink or does it have that much oil on it
Red oil
@@invisiblespeedrc I use red air filter oil but never get the filter that pink maybe I'm not using enough u should do a video on maintance don't think youv done that yet
strange selectionzz courses.invisiblespeed.net
Why no more videos?😢
courses.invisiblespeed.net
I break in my engine in a bath of snake oil
😂👍🏻
That’s a game on most Nokia phones. “Snake oil engine break in”
Mine came in today and I’m lost smh
Since 30 years I do the same breakin. This oilbath shit is a waste of time. Do one fueltank in stand and 4 fueltanks rich idled on the track. Than for 1liter dont exaggerate in your driving and keep slightly below the 100 degrees. Your fine. An engine needs to be broke in in an practical method. That means that you need a drivewind to cool the engine and dont forget to use a hairdryer to warm up the engine before starting till he got his 2 liter.
I’ll do it without shutting it off for about a gallon , run it pig rich on the hudy bench w a prop , get her hot like 250 w a heat gun run her for a min at that temp then hit it w on a cool setting to get her down to 120-130 then heat her back up repeat repeat repeat
Cheaper to just get a jet at this point.😂 running a rc10gt .15 at the moment.
Seriously easier to get drugs than fuel..🥴
❤🎉😮😊. ไฟไฟไฟไฟไฟไฟแอดพ์.
When new run them a tittle on the rich side, they'll break in just fine.No need to put all that wear and tear on the engine.
Watch the video before commenting something this stupid
you must have a super crappy heat gun, mine would have melted that in 2secsonds
Its not a competition
I agree... Break-in is everything when it comes to a successful running nitro engine, and an oil bath isn't going to do fuck all for it. Get the motor in the car, have some patience, do it correctly, and you'll be rewarded with an excellent running, easy to tune, reliable, powerful engine. Screw up the break-in, and your engine WILL SUCK for the rest of it's pathetic life.
Adam drake disagrees. Lol. Results don’t lie. Sure you can do it yourself. Drake does it for professionals and they win races. You can do it yourself and have fun in club races, break in matters that much.
Couldn't agree more, break in is mega important for life span and performance.
No because he just uses the oil bath method. Anyone can do that.
I have no clue on what he is doing
It's weird hearing someone make sense you could've spoke Spanish and I would've caught every word.
35 minutes to explain a simple break in procedure. Oof!
Yup I’m sticking with electric 😂 this is ridiculous just wanna send it
Fuel cost is insane, that's my issue. 5 tanks is about how much i have burned in five years. Last i checked it was 37 dollars a gallon,$old 75 plus miles away and is illegal to transport in my left wing state. I hear it's near 50.oo now. Thanks to brandon the commie.
This is an old video, you probably wont see this comment, but thanks this helped me a lot.
Let’s simplify this idle for two full tanks quarter throttle third tank half throttle fourth tank third throttle fifth tank full throttle six tank than tune from there works perfect
Thats the dumbest thing I ever heard
Has this guy ever wondered single race? NO!
What?
@@invisiblespeedrcHe is very rude to comment in this way.
this is not normal way this is his way and very complex, will put people off nitro rc. This is just taking ages and will get same results as driving slow with 5 tanks and idle
No it won't you idiot
@@invisiblespeedrc i was joking your vids are good