Hello from Texas. Today I watched 2x and then executed. I replaced the orifice for $1.99 and the 20oz of Freon was free. But I couldn't have done it without your video. Thank you!
Doing an 03 Yukon Denali XL, the lines to the rear A/C are bad. Replacing all the lines up front to lines meant for a pickup truck. Front air conditioning is better than none. It's been about 8 years since I've done A/C work. I got my certification in the 90s but a little refresher class always helps.
Hi side charging is FINE when starting empty. Hook up gauges, refrigerant, and purge hoses. With engine OFF and AC OFF invert can for liquid and charge liquid into the empty system into the HIGH side. This gets most of the charge into the system and WILL NOT HARM A THING. When low side comes "up" and pressures stop moving, you can start the engine and AC and adjust the final charge.
thanks Rick I have a 99 k1500 suburban here in Florida, have the same equipement as you. now I know how to drain and recharge good video. March 20 2018 Cheers
Didn't expect the compressor to cut in as soon as it did... thought it would take a couple cans at least. We don't do ac, so I don't know enough about the ins & outs of the system. Slowly learning more & more thanks to videos such as this!
Good job, the only thing that I don’t recommend is turning the can upside down, you don’t want to add liquid to the low side. Refrigerant in liquid form should only be on the high side and with that said “ DO NOT ADD TO THE HIGH SIDE! “ liquid or gas! Leave the red valve on the manifold closed when adding refrigerant. 👍
You need to learn more about what happens with gases under certain conditions that become liquid and then gas again, especially with R-134, if you have a charging hose with a full can but disconnected from the AC and open the valve, you will se it will be released as a gas, not as a liquid, same thing happens if its connected
@@kwt2000trucker That is absolutely nonsense. Sounds like you need to learn about how AC systems work and how the can is used. If the can is upright, you will charge as a vapor and if the can is upside down, it will charge as a liquid. Can you do either, but on vehicles you follow the directions on the can. Of course anything that exists the can to the atmosphere is going to turn to a gas, that is thermodynamics and being mixed with nitrogen and oxygen in the air. Regardless, if the can is upside down and sealed to the AC system, it will charge as a liquid. High side liquid charging is fine, if the system is empty and as long as the compressor isn't running. Empty the can to the desired amount that the label states under the hood. Start the engine and run the AC. Then you will make final adjustments to the charge using vapor and upright can.
Nice and simple informative video, You may want to look into putting a electric fan setup and getting rid of the fan clutch you will much happier with electric fans and so will your Tahoe.
Thanks for the shoutout buddy. The AC is a must down your way and for under $200 including including the gauges you probably save twice as much as going to a shop. Nice one. 👍👍
Nice video. I'd change the AC condenser and the dryer in a 150k mile vehicle if I lived in Florida and also anytime I get into a system I change out the low/high side Schrader valve cores.
did not to purge air using my harbor frieght guages. in augusta, 100 now, super humid. Need to replace orafice, since rear is working front is not. great tip on adding oil to oring. I was an engineer responible for ac change on vehicle assy line. we soaked o rings in pag oil
Dude you took a hit on that freon. I got mine on line 6 cans for 40 bucks my orifice tube was about the same price although I priced it at a parts store for 2 dollars. But I figured if it was that cheap it was junk. Oh and my freon is the best made its DuPont Suva 134a I looked around and 3 of the top mechanics all said it's the best
You said dye was added to the system a couple of years ago. So where is the leak at ? The dye should show up somewhere. I would say 80& of the leaks are from hoses. Good job.
Just a f.y.i. the angled fittings on the hoses are supposed to go on the couplers not the manifold. I don't think it matters to functionality but just letting you know. I liked how you got a face full of dye mist :) I also liked "If you don't get dye on yourself you're not working" That dye is just a bad as anti-seize getting everywhere.
The problem you mentioned about when you stop at a red light the air does not blow as cold is a common problem on tahoe's and suburban's, not enough air flow's over the ac condenser from just the radiator fan. someone made a electric fan kit that goes on the ac condenser that is supposed to help that problem.
yup.. I was down in Florida and my ac was great I drove out to az and my ac clutch started screaming...lol it is always something when you have 263k miles...thanks Gary
I too thought I had a low charge on my ac. It turned out that my 170+k fan clutch was soft and weak. Swapping the clutch for an extreme service unit immediately solved my ac troubles. It also resolved a slow creep of temps on transmission and coolant temps in stop & go traffic. A properly working fan clutch more than doubles airflow compared to an e-fan setup @ idle. At speed with air flowing through the truck's nose, a fan clutch just free wheels, not taking away any shaft power in the least. While swapping the clutch, I also disassembled the front grille/nose clip and soapy-washed the trans cooler, oil + steering pump coolers and radiator. Getting the mud, grit, bugs and leaf debris out not only keeps fluid temps well in check - but my AC at max will freeze you out of the truck and frost the windows over. ^.^ Replacement/upgrade fan clutch cost about the same as this fellows' tube swap and recharge. ($75) So if your engine temps/gearbox oil creeps up in traffic or as you pull off highway and rest @ stoplight, along with AC cutting out and blowing warm due to elevated pressure from excessive heat? Check your fan clutch if your AC presents a proper charge. High AC temps and pressures caused by inadequate cooling from a sluggish clutch will cause the compressor to cut out and blow hot too. While in there, clean your cooling stack!
thank u so much i did it on my 2000 chevy short bed...it worked badass...just like you did on video...for thw first time me doin this i did hood...again thanx for this awesome video....bless you
I know this 5yrs ago but I can't get the new orifice tube in, it only goes to the white part and stops. I've checked for debris an all but can't mange to get it back in.. any suggestions?
I'm pretty sure that when you check it for leaks you're supposed to leave the manifold valves open. When you close them aren't you shutting off each hose from the system? That's why the low side gauge didn't start reading pressure until you opened it. When the valves are open you're checking the low & high side for vacuum leaks. When the valves are closed you're only checking the manifold for leaks.
great video, i like your style. question tho, i see people hook up the cables differently, as you have them with the elbowed side connected to the gauge cluster, other people have them with the straight side hooked up to the gauge cluster. and the 2 ends are quite different. so how to determine which is proper end to use? 9:10 now was that actually "opening" as you said or closing it? I'm a bit confused bc I thought that counter clockwise was closing it off?! and clockwise was opening it? on the valves. and the gauge cluster clockwise was closing and counter was opening.. ? Y/N? ha you sure saved me a huge headache and mistake bc someone else said the orifice tube was down connected to the compressor and I almost went down there, but decided to watch your video first haa
Question: I noticed the rear side of that pipe (where the orifice tube lives) is ice cold, but the forward side is warm. Is that normal? And my vents are blowing in the high-70s, not very cold. And the rear AC does blow a bit colder, which I don't understand. Thanks for the great video. I'm afraid to go invest in a vacuum pump and gauges if the problem is something other than low refrigerant.
@ericjohnson4003 I wish we had stores like that around here. Not wanting to invest in a pump and gauges if low gas wasn't the problem, I took it to my mechanic. So of course the problem ended up being low gas. Figures..
Thanks for the video Rick , did you already replace the compressor? Or you still have the original? I got a 2002 Chevy suburban and after 265,000 miles my compressor just die, I’m going to replace the condenser and the accumulator too, I just worry for the evaporator, it’s hard to take it out
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Hi Rick, I have a Chevrolet Sonic 2015 the the problem is that the high pressure pipe is cold and the low pressure pipe is warm and the A/C does not cool, what could be the problem? i have to recharge the system each month
I see guys wire by the low side pressure switch to keep the compressor on all the time , it shut off at about 22 psi , on a hot day and enough Freon, the low side pressure switch will stay closed!
I have a 2011 Chevy tahoe ltz turned on my truck and a.c. does not work.. it's on but no cold air comes out..no air comes out period...help wht should I do could it be that it needs to be filled up with coolant..?
RICKAFIX compressor. .just bought truck..blows hot..compressor looks like it spins when air is on and stops when I shut off...but refrigerant does not circulate...manafold gauges show around 100 psi each running or not no change.thanks
looseparashoot the cold pipe is normal. That is your low pressure side and should be cold to the touch. The hot pipe is your high pressure side (head pressure). By the sound of it, it seems as though it may be running fine,in regards to the refrigerant and compressor side of it. Now when you say it doesnt blow cold,is it cold and just barely coming out, or no cold air at all? If its cold but barely coming out, i would suggest taking a look at your blower. May not be blowing hard enough.
You hooked up the red high side pressure wrong . That goes on the liquid line the smaller one . The blue attaches to the blue suction line . Just look at how you hooked up your gauges lines .
@@fsu3784 technically he did a 10 minute leak test bit if it was me I would have done an 1 hour leak test and if you don't have time to wait at least a 30 minute leak test, but he did do a small timed leak test of 10 minute. 4:40
if the system initially get charge through low side refrigerant goes to low side in state of liquid and causes sludge and shortening compressor life by damaging it, because when compressor ruining refrigerant enter low side as gas not liquid ,through return line. the gas initially ,should be charge through high side with everything off till system pressure equalise with can pressure or no more gas can get in, then close high pressure valve start the car and run ac at this stage high pressure should go up and low pressure should com down.if the car need more charge most probably it would , it should be done from low side only when compressor is engaged .don't fully open low pressure tap . open it gently and make sure low pressure gauge doesn't go over 50 psi by doing this you make sure. refrigerant goes in compressor in state of gas not liquid.
@@puppetmasterblaster it might not be best English composition but if you have a bit of knowledge about ac system in this case car ac you would know what i was talking about never never charge ac system when it is empty through low side because by doing that it could damage ac inlet valve, you would flood low side by liquid gas it could damage ac by depositing sludge as consequence damaging ac inlet valve the correct procedure is to recharge ac system after vacuuming the system car and ac should be off low pressure valve must be closed... open high pressure valve gently don"t go fully open let gas go in... some times with some cars gas wouldn't go in fully (only half the bottle gas go in or on second bottle gas has hard time going in )this is because pressure in bottle is the same as pressure in system ........now if you think amount of entered gas is not enough .....close high pressure valve (if you don"t do this the bottle could explode) start the car turn ac on ,when ac clutch engage (low side gauge needle start coming down ) open low side valve at this stage as result of gas entering in system low side gauge needle start going up when it get around 60 psi shut the valve( not letting pressure go over 60 psi prevent liquid gas entering into low side) when pressure drop open low side valve again .... this process must be done only while compressor is engaged till enough gas are in system.i hope this on is more clear.
Hey John...I just hit 271k. I drove from chicago to florida to arizona to vegas and back to chicago then came back down to florida lol...I havent made any vids cause nothing is wrong with the truck...Runs great on cruise control at 80mph lol
Please don't use the word Jesus Christ as a cuss word every time you use it the Lord Jesus is going to hold you accountable for your action repent and turn to Jesus Christ while you still have breathe because one day you are going to doe thats the day you will be hold accountable for everything you did good ir bad it just a warning
Is it irresponsible to use canned air? r-134a is the same thing as HFC-134a and that's what's in canned air. The only reason not to release it is that it can hurt your skin or eyes.
![เกิดใหม่ทั้งทีก็เป็นสไลม์ไปซะแล้ว ซีซั่น 3 - ตอนที่ 67 [ซับไทย]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/he_uIQ-Xv_Q/mqdefault.jpg)
7 years later, video still coming in handy. Thanks
Love this man
Im doing a project truck 2000 tahoe..ac hasn't worked in at least 15 yrs.
God Bless Brotha
god bless Bra ada
Hello from Texas. Today I watched 2x and then executed. I replaced the orifice for $1.99 and the 20oz of Freon was free. But I couldn't have done it without your video. Thank you!
James Lucas did it work brother? I just removed old orifice putting new one in now
Take a shot every time he says “uh” 🍻 cheers
I'm dying right now! 🤣🤣🤣 I'm less than 2 mins in and I'd be wrecked already!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Dude! Now that's all I can pay attention to!
💀☠☠☠☠
Only goes on 1 way me finds a way to f### it up
I have to work tonight 🤣🤣
Doing an 03 Yukon Denali XL, the lines to the rear A/C are bad. Replacing all the lines up front to lines meant for a pickup truck. Front air conditioning is better than none. It's been about 8 years since I've done A/C work. I got my certification in the 90s but a little refresher class always helps.
Hi side charging is FINE when starting empty. Hook up gauges, refrigerant, and purge hoses. With engine OFF and AC OFF invert can for liquid and charge liquid into the empty system into the HIGH side. This gets most of the charge into the system and WILL NOT HARM A THING. When low side comes "up" and pressures stop moving, you can start the engine and AC and adjust the final charge.
thanks Rick I have a 99 k1500 suburban here in Florida, have the same equipement as you. now I know how to drain and recharge good video.
March 20 2018 Cheers
Didn't expect the compressor to cut in as soon as it did... thought it would take a couple cans at least. We don't do ac, so I don't know enough about the ins & outs of the system. Slowly learning more & more thanks to videos such as this!
+Thomas EXOVCDS I am a little surprised on how well that a works after 16 years some shop wanted 1500 to fix it and fill it 5 years ago ..I laughed
Yeah, with trucks like ours, professional repair costs for AC can be far more than the whole vehicle is worth. Glad it worked out, thanks for posting.
Good job, the only thing that I don’t recommend is turning the can upside down, you don’t want to add liquid to the low side. Refrigerant in liquid form should only be on the high side and with that said “ DO NOT ADD TO THE HIGH SIDE! “ liquid or gas! Leave the red valve on the manifold closed when adding refrigerant. 👍
You need to learn more about what happens with gases under certain conditions that become liquid and then gas again, especially with R-134, if you have a charging hose with a full can but disconnected from the AC and open the valve, you will se it will be released as a gas, not as a liquid, same thing happens if its connected
@@kwt2000trucker That is absolutely nonsense. Sounds like you need to learn about how AC systems work and how the can is used. If the can is upright, you will charge as a vapor and if the can is upside down, it will charge as a liquid. Can you do either, but on vehicles you follow the directions on the can. Of course anything that exists the can to the atmosphere is going to turn to a gas, that is thermodynamics and being mixed with nitrogen and oxygen in the air. Regardless, if the can is upside down and sealed to the AC system, it will charge as a liquid. High side liquid charging is fine, if the system is empty and as long as the compressor isn't running. Empty the can to the desired amount that the label states under the hood. Start the engine and run the AC. Then you will make final adjustments to the charge using vapor and upright can.
Nice and simple informative video,
You may want to look into putting a electric fan setup and getting rid of the fan clutch you will much happier with electric fans and so will your Tahoe.
Great video Sir! Probably the best a/c video I have seen. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it is appreciated.
Thanks for the shoutout buddy. The AC is a must down your way and for under $200 including including the gauges you probably save twice as much as going to a shop. Nice one. 👍👍
If it wasn't for the acorn none of this would of happened
+RICKAFIX Acorn ???? Ok I'll bite
couldn't think of anything to say
Nice video. I'd change the AC condenser and the dryer in a 150k mile vehicle if I lived in Florida and also anytime I get into a system I change out the low/high side Schrader valve cores.
Why change out a condenser that isn't leaking?
Because it's Florida and it's a high use item that I wouldn't want to go without. Thought I made that pretty clear.@@Balticblue93
So how do you know when you need to replace your orifice tube?
did not to purge air using my harbor frieght guages. in augusta, 100 now, super humid. Need to replace orafice, since rear is working front is not.
great tip on adding oil to oring. I was an engineer responible for ac change on vehicle assy line. we soaked o rings in pag oil
Dude you took a hit on that freon. I got mine on line 6 cans for 40 bucks my orifice tube was about the same price although I priced it at a parts store for 2 dollars. But I figured if it was that cheap it was junk. Oh and my freon is the best made its DuPont Suva 134a I looked around and 3 of the top mechanics all said it's the best
Rick ur hand shaking looks like mild alcohol detox, get youself a beer lol
I was like damn bruh i feel bad for my man
You said dye was added to the system a couple of years ago. So where is the leak at ?
The dye should show up somewhere. I would say 80& of the leaks are from hoses.
Good job.
Just a f.y.i. the angled fittings on the hoses are supposed to go on the couplers not the manifold. I don't think it matters to functionality but just letting you know. I liked how you got a face full of dye mist :) I also liked "If you don't get dye on yourself you're not working" That dye is just a bad as anti-seize getting everywhere.
Thanks Jon lol
The problem you mentioned about when you stop at a red light the air does not blow as cold is a common problem on tahoe's and suburban's, not enough air flow's over the ac condenser from just the radiator fan. someone made a electric fan kit that goes on the ac condenser that is supposed to help that problem.
yup.. I was down in Florida and my ac was great I drove out to az and my ac clutch started screaming...lol it is always something when you have 263k miles...thanks Gary
The clutch on the fan wears out. This condition prevents the fan from drawing sufficient air as stated. This happened on a 2004 gmc sierra.
just get a oem duel fan and it saves a couple mpg and high stop and go temps
I too thought I had a low charge on my ac. It turned out that my 170+k fan clutch was soft and weak. Swapping the clutch for an extreme service unit immediately solved my ac troubles. It also resolved a slow creep of temps on transmission and coolant temps in stop & go traffic. A properly working fan clutch more than doubles airflow compared to an e-fan setup @ idle. At speed with air flowing through the truck's nose, a fan clutch just free wheels, not taking away any shaft power in the least.
While swapping the clutch, I also disassembled the front grille/nose clip and soapy-washed the trans cooler, oil + steering pump coolers and radiator. Getting the mud, grit, bugs and leaf debris out not only keeps fluid temps well in check - but my AC at max will freeze you out of the truck and frost the windows over. ^.^ Replacement/upgrade fan clutch cost about the same as this fellows' tube swap and recharge. ($75)
So if your engine temps/gearbox oil creeps up in traffic or as you pull off highway and rest @ stoplight, along with AC cutting out and blowing warm due to elevated pressure from excessive heat? Check your fan clutch if your AC presents a proper charge.
High AC temps and pressures caused by inadequate cooling from a sluggish clutch will cause the compressor to cut out and blow hot too. While in there, clean your cooling stack!
thank u so much i did it on my 2000 chevy short bed...it worked badass...just like you did on video...for thw first time me doin this i did hood...again thanx for this awesome video....bless you
your welcome Jody
I know this 5yrs ago but I can't get the new orifice tube in, it only goes to the white part and stops. I've checked for debris an all but can't mange to get it back in.. any suggestions?
When turning on you AC to max and max air flow, are you also doing the same, max everything on the back passenger half also?
I'm pretty sure that when you check it for leaks you're supposed to leave the manifold valves open. When you close them aren't you shutting off each hose from the system? That's why the low side gauge didn't start reading pressure until you opened it. When the valves are open you're checking the low & high side for vacuum leaks. When the valves are closed you're only checking the manifold for leaks.
Use 90 degree needle nose to remove orifice. Change it even if it looks clean. The valve and screen are important, not so much if it’s clean
great video, i like your style. question tho, i see people hook up the cables differently, as you have them with the elbowed side connected to the gauge cluster, other people have them with the straight side hooked up to the gauge cluster. and the 2 ends are quite different. so how to determine which is proper end to use?
9:10 now was that actually "opening" as you said or closing it? I'm a bit confused bc I thought that counter clockwise was closing it off?! and clockwise was opening it? on the valves. and the gauge cluster clockwise was closing and counter was opening.. ? Y/N? ha
you sure saved me a huge headache and mistake bc someone else said the orifice tube was down connected to the compressor and I almost went down there, but decided to watch your video first haa
Great Video! Thx from Germany!
When I saw you purge the supply hose I nodded in approval.
Thanks for making the video, you helped me a lot!!
Can’t thank you enough bro 🍻🍻
Question: I noticed the rear side of that pipe (where the orifice tube lives) is ice cold, but the forward side is warm. Is that normal? And my vents are blowing in the high-70s, not very cold. And the rear AC does blow a bit colder, which I don't understand. Thanks for the great video. I'm afraid to go invest in a vacuum pump and gauges if the problem is something other than low refrigerant.
Not sure if you have an O'Reilly s store close, but you can loan the vacuum pump and gauges out from them.
@ericjohnson4003 I wish we had stores like that around here. Not wanting to invest in a pump and gauges if low gas wasn't the problem, I took it to my mechanic. So of course the problem ended up being low gas. Figures..
Thanks for the video Rick , did you already replace the compressor? Or you still have the original? I got a 2002 Chevy suburban and after 265,000 miles my compressor just die, I’m going to replace the condenser and the accumulator too, I just worry for the evaporator, it’s hard to take it out
Why didn't you vacuum the system out first since you open up the system
What year is your Tahoe?
Orifice Tube at Advance Auto Parts $2.99 freon from Wal-Mart $4.99 mine blows 40°
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Hi Rick, I have a Chevrolet Sonic 2015 the the problem is that the high pressure pipe is cold and the low pressure pipe is warm and the A/C does not cool, what could be the problem? i have to recharge the system each month
WHy would you open a system up to replace the orifice but not replace the drier?
Great Video, the old timer way
I have a question i have a 2002 chevy avalanche and i cant find an expansion valve does it even have one or no?
Reminds me of myself lol. Good video! Thanks
Can I ask why did you change it. Mines is making a funny noise like it has a restriction somewhere
I see guys wire by the low side pressure switch to keep the compressor on all the time , it shut off at about 22 psi , on a hot day and enough Freon, the low side pressure switch will stay closed!
I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND WEARING SAFETY GLASSES WHEN WORKING WITH FREON!
getr done ! Larry the cable guy ?
How you let the fluid out sir trying to change the compressor
I have a 2011 Chevy tahoe ltz turned on my truck and a.c. does not work.. it's on but no cold air comes out..no air comes out period...help wht should I do could it be that it needs to be filled up with coolant..?
love this guy, thank you for the info...
gt man I used a yellow jacket 19165 # from can yellow hose good video
Good work Rick and nothing like having nice cold air blowing on you :)
thanks Terry but it is actually to cold now and I had to add some heat on the lowest setting lol it is always something
HaHa! You sound like me now Rick with the aircon being too cold. Maybe we're both too old and our bodies just can't take it :)
Do i need to do the a/c evac after or can i just do the recharge
Great video sir.
Did u change your cabin filter too?
Great video..... Thank you
Good job
Youre hilarious man lol good video sir
Good job Sir 👍
Since you had the system open you should of went ahead and replaced the receiver drier as well. Great video though
What about air in the yellow line when adding dye?
Will be replacing compressor next week and just want to do this job right...thanks
compressor bad or is it the clutch? is it screaming?
RICKAFIX compressor. .just bought truck..blows hot..compressor looks like it spins when air is on and stops when I shut off...but refrigerant does not circulate...manafold gauges show around 100 psi each running or not no change.thanks
sounds like you hacve a blockage.
Good video tanks rick
When disconnecting the pipes containing the orifice tube, will all the remaining refrigerant escape?
Yes. But by law, you should evacuate the freon from system before opening it up.
@mayken6661
I like how you said 'should' like it'sa government suggestion
I like your style 😉😎👍
RICKAFIX if a want to change just the orifice tube filter do i need to vacuum it after?o its not necesary.thank you.
Yes. Absolutely.
Could the orifice tube be the cause of poorly performing at!? Please help
I recharged and it still doesn't blow cold like it should. I touch tubing one side is freezing other side close to fire wall is hot!!
looseparashoot the cold pipe is normal. That is your low pressure side and should be cold to the touch. The hot pipe is your high pressure side (head pressure). By the sound of it, it seems as though it may be running fine,in regards to the refrigerant and compressor side of it. Now when you say it doesnt blow cold,is it cold and just barely coming out, or no cold air at all? If its cold but barely coming out, i would suggest taking a look at your blower. May not be blowing hard enough.
@@robertgonzales1901 what about only cold when cool/cold outside ? Otherwise basically room or ambient temperature
Great vid. use safety goggles guys
My hose weeps a little green but pressure maintains
Thanks!!Worked great.
cool
When checking the low and high side pressure should both the front and rear AC be turned on? Thanks.
yes they are on seperate gauges
@Viiami Fainga make your own a/c videos ya know-it-all ffs
Then damn loud ass cicadas humming in the summer time
Why is my high side gauge not going higher while I’m filling it? When does it start to go higher
When the compressor comes on.
How many oz of R134 and oil?
Thank you
Thx for video......i almost installed tube in backwards.....
lol didnt know you could do that
You hooked up the red high side pressure wrong .
That goes on the liquid line the smaller one .
The blue attaches to the blue suction line .
Just look at how you hooked up your gauges lines .
do u ever move the high nob while doing the job
+Cesar Chavez nope
Muchas gracias rickAfix
What if it's stuck
8oz oil mfg specs. If you buy ac delco compressor it comes with 8 oz inside
You going add oil first or what ? You got no oil in your ac system it will fry compressor .
How about finding the leak so you don’t have to charge it 🤷🏼
He did a vacuum leak down test on it and it passed, no vacuum leaked from the system so there was no leak when he charged it back up again.
Tyson Currie no he didn’t.
@@fsu3784 technically he did a 10 minute leak test bit if it was me I would have done an 1 hour leak test and if you don't have time to wait at least a 30 minute leak test, but he did do a small timed leak test of 10 minute. 4:40
Tyson Currie I. Should have clarified that he needed way longer to tell if there was a leak.
@@fsu3784 no worries 👍
so you never open high side when adding refrigerant? thanks
correct
if the system initially get charge through low side refrigerant goes to low side in state of liquid and causes sludge and shortening compressor life by damaging it,
because when compressor ruining refrigerant enter low side as gas not liquid ,through return line.
the gas initially ,should be charge through high side with everything off till system pressure equalise with can pressure or no more gas can get in, then close high pressure valve start the car and run ac at this stage high pressure should go up and low pressure should com down.if the car need more charge most probably it would , it should be done from low side only when compressor is engaged .don't fully open low pressure tap . open it gently and make sure low pressure gauge doesn't go over 50 psi by doing this you make sure. refrigerant goes in compressor in state of gas not liquid.
HECK NO!!!!....PLEASE DON'T!!!!
@@seaton95 If you spoke english I might actually understand what youre trying to say
@@puppetmasterblaster it might not be best English composition but if you have a bit of knowledge about ac system in this case car ac you would know what i was talking about never never charge ac system when it is empty through low side because by doing that it could damage ac inlet valve, you would flood low side by liquid gas it could damage ac by depositing sludge as consequence damaging ac inlet valve the correct procedure is to recharge ac system after vacuuming the system car and ac should be off low pressure valve must be closed... open high pressure valve gently don"t go fully open let gas go in... some times with some cars gas wouldn't go in fully (only half the bottle gas go in or on second bottle gas has hard time going in )this is because pressure in bottle is the same as pressure in system ........now if you think amount of entered gas is not enough .....close high pressure valve (if you don"t do this the bottle could explode) start the car turn ac on ,when ac clutch engage (low side gauge needle start coming down ) open low side valve at this stage as result of gas entering in system low side gauge needle start going up when it get around 60 psi shut the valve( not letting pressure go over 60 psi prevent liquid gas entering into low side) when pressure drop open low side valve again .... this process must be done only while compressor is engaged till enough gas are in system.i hope this on is more clear.
what kind of oil do you put on the o ring?
Should be refrigerant oil
Great video brother!!!!! Although I don't know you that well brother PLEASE!!!!! put on some glasses next time trust me tell you from experience 😉👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks wild ...yeah those glasses were close
is it legal to release the freon in the air?
No...
R134 is not freon
@@professormoriarty7474 it makes my blood boil when people use Freon as a blanket term for any refrigerant....
It is illegal if it is a certain amount I'm a automotive a/c tech
Sure, its helps cool the Earth.
I think he released refrigerant in the atmosphere...call the climate police😆🤣...Love that global warming
Him they only go on ome way no way to mess up me fukks it up somehow
how are you going to see if the needles move to see if there are any leaks when you closed the gauges ? ha ha ha
thanks
welcome
Nevermind, I'm a dumbass for not watching further
How many mileage on that car now?!.
Hey John...I just hit 271k. I drove from chicago to florida to arizona to vegas and back to chicago then came back down to florida lol...I havent made any vids cause nothing is wrong with the truck...Runs great on cruise control at 80mph lol
It's illegal to vent refrigerant in the atmosphere. Also you shouldn't add dye if your not trying to find a leak.
A little dye doesn't hurt anything and then it's there in case your system ever gets a leak.
many ac systems come with dye from the manufacture
Anyone else not able to put a new tube on?
Should be around 40 not 55.
48 Oz.
Never said when to open high side
patriotgame you fill from low side only.
Pssssssssssst, that's not air. ;-)
Please don't use the word Jesus Christ as a cuss word every time you use it the Lord Jesus is going to hold you accountable for your action repent and turn to Jesus Christ while you still have breathe because one day you are going to doe thats the day you will be hold accountable for everything you did good ir bad it just a warning
Jesus died for your sins or you got to heaven by your own strength
You seriously just released the gas into the atmosphere??Please be responsible and have it evacuated at a shop before you service an a/c system.
if that had of been freon it would have shown up as a fog when released likely just air
Is it irresponsible to use canned air? r-134a is the same thing as HFC-134a and that's what's in canned air.
The only reason not to release it is that it can hurt your skin or eyes.
Loved all the video except for using Jesus Christ name in vain.