When working on small shapes like this i often would hold the work in one hand to guide it,and with the other hand rotate the top wheel back and forth,i find it is easier to prevent the unwanted exit of the edge from out of the wheels and the subsequent unwanted edge stretch or finger pinch👍 nice work,video without the huge ego. Thanks.
Thanks mate. I’m normally a little better at not running off the edge. I blame having to use the video camera to get the shots. Instead of using a hand to rotate the top wheel, I tend to rotate the bottom wheel for some reason
Thanks mate, I appreciate you watching. I didn’t mention annealing in this video as I didn’t need to anneal these parts to make them. I mentioned annealing in another video “extreme metal forming with only the basics”. Cheers
Don, So happy to have come across your channel. Its pretty obvious to me that you are a very talented Craftsman. I honestly feel that by the looks of your aircraft n ive not seem but a couple videos at this time, but I truly believe that the name Frankenstein is a name unbefitting the Beauty that youve created with this aircraft. I also see that at present your Subscription number is nowhere near where your channels content should be. I wish you every success for the future. Best Regards Bob
Gday Bob, I appreciate your thoughts and comments. Hopefully my channel continues to grow, even if it is slowly. My mates started calling the aircraft ‘Frankenstein’ early on when I started to build it due to the fact that I was using a lot of recycled materials and parts, and not building from a set of plans. I wouldn’t have called it Frankenstein, but it stuck. I guess it’s an example of what can be done on a very limited budget. Cheers mate
Awesome mate! Go for it! I made a series a while back showing how I made the cowling for Frankenstein. Perhaps they might help, or give you more motivation
Wow, that came out really good. Would it take less time to block out the bulk of the shape with a hammer & sand bag and then smooth/planish on the wheel?
Cheers mate. It probably would be a bit quicker that way, although you’d need to be pretty careful with such thin material not to stretch it too much and split it (which I’ve done before doing just that).
Thanks mate. For these little fairings I didn’t anneal them. Sometimes I do to get a higher lift out of the curved scoop and for forming the flange. On other things I’ve made I’ve annealed a few times during the forming process. You can feel if the metal is getting too hard and tough after a bit. I’m pretty sure thin steel can be formed in the English wheel, I guess you’d have to use a higher pressure and/or anneal it to form it. I might give it a go sometime and see, sounds fun!
@@donwtsn -- I've done some blacksmithing for years and I recently got into silversmithing. I know silver and copper work harden and need to be annealed or they can become brittle. Now I'm making a chopper (motorcycle) from scratch and forming the fender has been a bear. I didn't want to buy an English wheel for one project, but forming sheet steel with a 3 lb. hammer and a sand bag is tough work!
Those are some cool projects you have going on there mate! It’s interesting to see how different materials behave when worked. The engine cowling I made for Rosie the Sopwith pup was initially made using a shaped hammer and a beater bag (I got hold of an English wheel about half way through the project) it’s a real challenge to hit in the correct spot and with the right power huh!
Cheers mate. I’ve noticed extra material tends to interfere with itself when forming. I normally have a little extra material and trim down to size during and after I’ve formed it up
@@jareklotz not sure about the hole and screw thing. The risk of cracking would be very high. I normally start with 5 or 10mm extra, then trim as soon as it starts to bind up on itself. Depending on how far I’m forming it, that could happen pretty soon during forming. Maybe forming such thin material is different to forming thicker material
Gday mate, I don’t know of many places that make these. I’m sure some coachbuilders would. For me to make them, posting them outside of Australia adds a bit to the cost
You’re right, although I’ve found that I lose too much dexterity for the finer detailed work I tend to do. I’ve learnt relatively quickly where my hands need to be to keep any injury’s to an absolute minimum
@@donwtsn I understand. I work primarily with my head doing analysis and I'm an old fart now and am finding that I'm losing too much dexterity with my bloody brain...
@@sociopathicnarcissist8810 heheh, that worries me a bit. I find own brain doing the same thing sometimes, and I wouldn’t call myself an old fart yet. Things to look forward to huh
Never said this was the only way to do things. Your suggestion would work, however you might’ve heard me talking about the material 7075t6 and the thickness. Bashing it with a mallet is guaranteed to put little splits in it everywhere. Maybe that’s the desired effect. I’ve noticed even with 5005 in that thickness, it is really easy to overstretch with the bashing technique. I’m glad you found it entertaining, cheers
Really nice work and a well-informed how-to video. I can definitely slide this information into my world of hot rods. Thanks!
Thanks mate, I really appreciate your comments. Have fun playing with hot rods!
GREAT Instructional video. Thank you!!!!
No worries mate, I’m glad it’s of use
I am real looking forward to seeing the thing fly.
In the meantime, your videos are appreciated.
Thanks mate. I’m really looking forward to getting flying too!
You are an artisan. I wish I had your patience. I love that you like building your airplane as much as I like flying mine.
Thanks mate. I do enjoy building very much…although I am also very keen to fly it!
Well done - You make it look easy! THANKS!
Thanks mate, I’ve had a bit of practice now
Great skills, thank you for sharing.
Thanks mate, no problem
Stumbled upon your channel...love it when I have a win.
Great video, well explained
Brilliant, keep on keeping on.
Thanks mate, I really appreciate that. I’m glad it helps. It’s amazing what can be achieved with basic tooling, with a little patience huh.
Great work, love it!
Thanks mate
Beautiful work .
Thanks mate
Nice work and training - thx - looks relaxing work
Thanks mate. Great fun
Great skills you have with an english wheel, WOW!
Thanks mate
Looks like fun. Very cool!
Thanks mate. Yes, it’s great fun!
Well done. Thanks from yanks.
No worries mate
Very nice result sir!
Thanks mate
your a wizard my friend!
Thanks mate
When working on small shapes like this i often would hold the work in one hand to guide it,and with the other hand rotate the top wheel back and forth,i find it is easier to prevent the unwanted exit of the edge from out of the wheels and the subsequent unwanted edge stretch or finger pinch👍 nice work,video without the huge ego.
Thanks.
Thanks mate. I’m normally a little better at not running off the edge. I blame having to use the video camera to get the shots. Instead of using a hand to rotate the top wheel, I tend to rotate the bottom wheel for some reason
My comments were in no way ment as a criticsm Don you did a fine job!
@@nige135 all good mate, I didn’t detract any criticism on your part. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Cheers mate
Great inspiration.
Thanks mate
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers mate
Thanks, very informative
Cheers mate
Wow. Nice job
Thanks mate
excellent demo, thanks for sharing. a question, if i may: i don't think i heard you mention annealing the work?
Thanks mate, I appreciate you watching. I didn’t mention annealing in this video as I didn’t need to anneal these parts to make them. I mentioned annealing in another video “extreme metal forming with only the basics”. Cheers
Amazing 😮
Thanks mate
"A bit whoopie"......that's "crazy?"
Hehe, cheers mate
@@donwtsn Cheers....I'm Polish too
excellent explanation mate - im subbing
Cheers mate, I appreciate it
Don,
So happy to have come across your channel.
Its pretty obvious to me that you are a very talented Craftsman. I honestly feel that by the looks of your aircraft n ive not seem but a couple videos at this time, but I truly believe that the name Frankenstein is a name unbefitting the Beauty that youve created with this aircraft.
I also see that at present your Subscription number is nowhere near where your channels content should be.
I wish you every success for the future.
Best Regards Bob
Gday Bob, I appreciate your thoughts and comments. Hopefully my channel continues to grow, even if it is slowly. My mates started calling the aircraft ‘Frankenstein’ early on when I started to build it due to the fact that I was using a lot of recycled materials and parts, and not building from a set of plans. I wouldn’t have called it Frankenstein, but it stuck. I guess it’s an example of what can be done on a very limited budget. Cheers mate
Saludos desde mexico mi admiracion y respeto, gracias por compartir experiencias de vida, artesanias es mas cerca del arte, muy buen desempeño.
Thanks mate, I appreciate your comments. I think when you treat it like art, it turns out better. Cheers
Great - that's given me the nudge I need to start on my engine cowls! I'll mess about with the air intake first, then go from there.
Awesome mate! Go for it! I made a series a while back showing how I made the cowling for Frankenstein. Perhaps they might help, or give you more motivation
I like it.
Cheers mate
Mucho gusto amigo eres un verdadero artista
Thanks mate
good job well done
Thanks mate
Nice!!! Not really into flying but enjoy the wheeling. Sub sent!!!
Thanks mate. I appreciate that cheers
Hay Don, ever try making a NACA duct out of aluminum?
Gday mate, I have made ducts and scoops on other aircraft a while ago. Fun times
Wow, that came out really good. Would it take less time to block out the bulk of the shape with a hammer & sand bag and then smooth/planish on the wheel?
Cheers mate. It probably would be a bit quicker that way, although you’d need to be pretty careful with such thin material not to stretch it too much and split it (which I’ve done before doing just that).
awesome job. and really good explanation to. might have to give that i go i think
Thanks mate. I hope it helps. It’s great fun
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Thanks Don enjoyed the video now subscribed UK hot rodder
Thanks mate, I appreciate that
Great video!
1) Do you anneal the aluminum every so often?
2) Can thin mild steel be worked with an English wheel?
Thanks mate. For these little fairings I didn’t anneal them. Sometimes I do to get a higher lift out of the curved scoop and for forming the flange. On other things I’ve made I’ve annealed a few times during the forming process. You can feel if the metal is getting too hard and tough after a bit. I’m pretty sure thin steel can be formed in the English wheel, I guess you’d have to use a higher pressure and/or anneal it to form it. I might give it a go sometime and see, sounds fun!
@@donwtsn -- I've done some blacksmithing for years and I recently got into silversmithing. I know silver and copper work harden and need to be annealed or they can become brittle.
Now I'm making a chopper (motorcycle) from scratch and forming the fender has been a bear. I didn't want to buy an English wheel for one project, but forming sheet steel with a 3 lb. hammer and a sand bag is tough work!
Those are some cool projects you have going on there mate! It’s interesting to see how different materials behave when worked. The engine cowling I made for Rosie the Sopwith pup was initially made using a shaped hammer and a beater bag (I got hold of an English wheel about half way through the project) it’s a real challenge to hit in the correct spot and with the right power huh!
Brilliant! Can we see the rivets from start to finish please. I have just bought a 3X and have not as yet had any fun with it. Hint hint.
Not a bad idea! Grab the popcorn and I’ll see what I can come up with
tip: start with bigger metal piece of metal, what provide better and easier handle, then cut of unnecessary material
Cheers mate. I’ve noticed extra material tends to interfere with itself when forming. I normally have a little extra material and trim down to size during and after I’ve formed it up
@@donwtsn Okey, so left just a 5mm extra with small hole and put a screw with narrow handle. So no extra material will impact forming process
@@jareklotz not sure about the hole and screw thing. The risk of cracking would be very high. I normally start with 5 or 10mm extra, then trim as soon as it starts to bind up on itself. Depending on how far I’m forming it, that could happen pretty soon during forming. Maybe forming such thin material is different to forming thicker material
How much time do you have in making this piece?
Around an hour for each piece.
Hello, Don. Do you know of anywhere I can buy similar air scoops ?
Gday mate, I don’t know of many places that make these. I’m sure some coachbuilders would. For me to make them, posting them outside of Australia adds a bit to the cost
@@donwtsn Are you on Instagram, or X where I can direct message you ?
How many hours is needed for one piece?
Thanks for your reply
Greetings✌️
I wasn’t really counting. But I reckon it was less than 2 hours total, including polishing
So how long in all would you say it took you to make that
I wasn’t really counting, but I’d reckon less than a couple of hours to finished, including polishing
I’m impressed truly
@@kobiroar4221 thanks mate
Using some leather gloves would make it easier on your hands.
You’re right, although I’ve found that I lose too much dexterity for the finer detailed work I tend to do. I’ve learnt relatively quickly where my hands need to be to keep any injury’s to an absolute minimum
@@donwtsn I understand. I work primarily with my head doing analysis and I'm an old fart now and am finding that I'm losing too much dexterity with my bloody brain...
@@sociopathicnarcissist8810 heheh, that worries me a bit. I find own brain doing the same thing sometimes, and I wouldn’t call myself an old fart yet. Things to look forward to huh
you could just start with biger piece easier to handle stratch out with mallet your shape wheel out and cut a half your tecnique is a joke
Never said this was the only way to do things. Your suggestion would work, however you might’ve heard me talking about the material 7075t6 and the thickness. Bashing it with a mallet is guaranteed to put little splits in it everywhere. Maybe that’s the desired effect. I’ve noticed even with 5005 in that thickness, it is really easy to overstretch with the bashing technique. I’m glad you found it entertaining, cheers
Nice!!!
Thanks!
Flow forming is faster, and more repeatable-
Yes, but a lot of work making a form block for a one off