Installing a tension tamer - 1990 Kawasaki ZZR1100
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2022
- Everybody goes on about these, so today I'm fitting a tension tamer to the 1990 Kawasaki ZZR1100
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My 2003 ZZR1200 is a very low mileage bike, only, 3875 miles on it. It showed a few marks on the clutch basket. I installed the Tension Tamer, as shown in this video. You don't cram it against the bottom of the Hyvo chain, so it does not eat up the tensioner guides, you just snug it finger tight, and lock nut it there with around 7.5 ft. lbs. of force. There is around .010" movement when adjusted properly. That's it. Great product, works as advertised. I have a machine shop, it would have cost me more in time spent to set up the machines to make this assembly, so let's be real. Also, a sleeve on the pin to stop the linkage does not give you a way of adjusting the tension to set it right, you would have to take it on and off a few times to get it right. A lot cheaper in time and effort than making it yourself. It's only $60 bucks.
Good job quicky . I like James Compton's tamer because it utilises the original spring still allowing movement up and down of the tensioner without it backing up too far and hitting the clutch cover. Where as Els tensioner has constant pressure on the alt chain. James does have a step by step install of his tensioner and he gives great commentary of the why and how's of this mod. Just you tube James Compton's customs alt tensioner install it very interesting, this guy knows his stuff. Keep up the good work quicky.
Thanks for chipping in matey. To be fair I'm starting to wish I went for the Compton version, but this is on now... after some filing... 😅🤣
Donde lo consigo en Colombia gracias
Well, mate, I'm glad you suffered the pain and not me. I stuff a piece of tubing over the plunger that stops the tensioner hitting the basket. Can't remember the length of it now, but I cut it down ad-hoc until it was right when the clutch was pulled. Some off the shelf aluminium tube that I nicked from work...
Joys of rebuilding engines, the first few - you hear every squeak and tick. Just get out and ride and enjoy.
It's really annoying though 🤣😂😅
Hahah very true
In 1999 I bought a new 1200 bandit, first few weeks, I was back and forth, say I can hear this and that noise. There top spanner man, said your sat on top of 1200cc engine with no sound dampening no carpet and no radio, Now go out n just ride it😱😂🤣😂👍
Hehehe... it would be nice if it wasn't as rough though hey 🤣😂
I need to get my hands on a mk1 1200....
Quicky mate I think you want to hear a 90s bike run like a 2022 electric bike- noiseless.
I’ve a 2003 blade that pings and ticks and slaps all over the place - everything checked out - redone clearances and camchain tensioner over the years etc etc and she still clicks away until she’s hot! I know they’re not proper old fossils but still ~ they’re like old houses & they just make noises. They just do. I’ve learned to stop listening too hard 🥴
Hehehe... I like the idea of them being like old houses that are just noisy... that's a good analogy 😁
Fantastic R.i.p
I installed the Compton one my ZX11 . They are actually still building race bikes . Expensive but worth it .
I like the idea of having a manual tensioner, but this one is really not a great design because it just didn't fit straight out of the box. You should have to file bits of it down if it's properly sized surely 🤔 As long as it works I'm happy, but I'm having the cover off again just to check 🤣😂
Did the Compton one just bolt straight into your ZX11? I have one in my ZRX11, want to fit one to my ZX11. Compton said he thought it required a bit of fettling to fit the ZX11...
@@ZRXRICK It fit perfectly like it was made for Zx11. Easy install ,had no problem as easy as it looks in their video.
@@marktrosper2481 Excellent, I'll get one ordered :)
Bought one last year , will have to fit it before next season ( zrx1200 ) 8k on clock so best be safe , thanks for vid btw 👍🏻🏴🙋🏼♂️
It's worth fitting it. If it goes it makes a right mess believe me mate.
I was looking at all the damage in that picture closely, there's quite a bit more than £75 worth gone south there 🤣😂
Need to do this on my 1990 zzr 1100, its a bit rattly at times but need to check a few things as well as this. Might get a tensioner mod made rather than pay mad coin haha
nice to see whats what in there mate thanks. better safe than sorry if that tensioner gives out!! cheers.
The mess when it goes wrong is just scary expensive to fix...
Thanks for watching and chipping in matey 👍
I came across your gearbox series after my engine failed to turn over. I had already had the timing cover off to try to turn the engine over by hand and it wouldn't. Fearing the worst I took the cams out (wish I hadn't). One of your gearbox videos mentioned the known issue of the start/alternator tensioner being a point of failure - I had never heard of this :-( I was about to take the right-hand clutch cover of next but your video made me realise what had happened before I got that far. Sure enough the the tensioner had broken in two places (rod snapped in half and same across the hole in the tensioner) and destroyed the clutch and broken some of the web on the cover. I have a second hand clutch and second had tensioner coming - but after seeing this video I have also ordered the ELS tension tamer. Thanks for sharing - so sorry about your tank paint job - not sure whether you have fixed it yet as I'm only up to the Crispy dyno videos - Thanks Quicky
You can find out all kinds of stuff on TH-cam... It's brilliant as a source of info, but I would recommend always checking stuff out for yourself. You could make a tamer easy enough as there's bugger all to them and buying one isn't that cheap, but well worth doing. Sorry to hear about your bike matey and glad you've got spares sorted as some of this stuff isn't easy to come by. A word of warning though... Once you've rebuilt the engine, don't go sticking it on a Dyno straight away like I did. I think I've spun a shell on it now and it has rod knock...
Best of luck matey and thanks for watching and commenting. It's very much appreciated 😁👍
Another top video with good information, I found a drawing with dimensions on tinterweb and got my fabricatior mate to make it for me and it has taken away a lot of the ticky noise but mine does make valve train operating noise possibly how they sound normally, so I'm just going to put my helmet on and run it
It's weird... when I fitted the tensioner, it sounded better, but today it was louder than I remember... I'm pulling the cover off today before I get vack onto ASBO just to check everything is still OK in there. Somebody did say that I'm expecting a 90's bike to run as smoothly as a modern bike which is never going to happen and they could be right. I just don't like metallic noises 🤣😂
Thanks for watching matey 👍
Very interesting! I agree for 75 quid it should at least have rounded corners ... if only so it looks more finished like. 😁👍❤
It's just not very well thought through I don't think, but seems to work at least 😅
Great video 👍 Quickie if the new part is all alley then it will get machined in situ ,those nut's are used in suspension etc elliptical.
Hehehe... cast ally pressure plate against billet ally tension tamer. I'm not sure who'd win that one 🤣😂😅
good stuff bro
Thanks matey 👍
Bonjour, une question pour faire plus simple, et t’il possible de raccourcir en coupant un petit morceau supérieur du guide métallique qui touche la cloche.? Le problème serait réglé non ? Merci de vos réponses car je ne sais pas encore dans quelle état se trouve le mien sur mon ZRX 1200 de 2005 avec 34000km ça sera la surprise…
We're did u get the part from mate I have the same problem shattered my clutch
Kawasaki should have done a recall on this part it's a poor design that overtime the original spring weakens allowing the tensioner arm to backup and hit the clutch plate. My zrx1200 gets well looked after never abused but it still let go and destroyed my clutch and came close to destroying my motor. I use the Compton customs tamer for the past couple of years and so far so good. It's a shame because I love this bike , you hear people say all the time that this motor is bullet proof...well it's not. Love your work quicky.
Thank you for that matey. I must admit I do love being on a bike again and it has real potential, but I'd love it to run smoother. I think the dyno didn't do it any favours which I'm keen to put right, but for now it's my daily..... ticking and growling it's way wherever we go 😁👍
I pulled the clutch cover to inspect my starter tensioner a few weeks ago. I seen strike marks, but it doesn't strike when I hit the starter. I was planning on putting a 1.25 inch long steel tube with a 1/4 inch inside diameter on the rod to stop the tensioner from springing back instead of that "expensive lightweight thing." I think it would be just as effective and only cost a few quid.
Ah geddon, that would work to just limit the travel of the tensioner so if it flaps about its not tooooo much. I guess the spring is still weaker than it should be, but I can see where you're going with that idea 💡
Another good bit of advise is to start the bike in neutral. Holding the clutch in on start up brings the clutch plate out closer to to tensioner .
Thank you matey 👍
Im sure the block could have been slimmed down on the bolt end. Looks substantial enough. A hex head on the bolt would have made adjusting easier as well and as someone else said an e clip on the pivot bolt rather than a nut. Looks like it will do the biz but for 75 quid I'd expect a bit more refined design. So glad my bikes are gear driven.
Exactly, right.... It looks like it works etc, but its a bit.... rough around the edges shall we say 🤔
@@QuickBikes I looked at the Compton one. Looks a lot more finished. Hard to believe Kawasaki fitted these from the Gpz to the Zrx. It's a known issue thats common on all with a solution so why didn't they modified the design?
Makes you wonder doesn't it... especially when folk ate coming up with a fix that they sell owners... why not just look at what they're doing and come up with your own solution / design?
The lad who owns ELS, Kwick (no relation?) designed that for the ZRX, I know the clutch is slightly different and the tensioner hits slightly different area of the pressure plate, closer to the centre. Could be that the clutch is deeper hence the clearance problem. Glad I watched this as I have an ELS tamer to fit to my D5
th-cam.com/video/SPbtLMCnPZ4/w-d-xo.html
I bought the Compton version, it a was far more elegant design than your tensioner, and it fitted perfectly on my GPZ 1000rx, the pivot pin used an "e" clip rather than a lock nut.
But glad you got one fitted in the end, they are pricey, but it's a fit and forget item hopefully.
I'm not that impressed with the design of this one, but as long as it works I'm happy 😁
Compton's looks like it was designed by an engineer, made by a machinist & tensions the chain automatically. The ELS version looks like it was cobbled together with stuff found laying on the floor at B&Q & requires manual adjustment. Compton tells you how good his stuff is, ELS just bad mouths the competition.
This tensioner could be soooo much better and is basic to say the least. I can see what its trying to do butnit just doesn't seem that well thought through... 🤔
Donde lo puedo conseguir soy de Colombia o un manual de como fabricarlo gracias
The bolt itself could be a round head instead of a mushroom head which would give better cleareance, that said the way its tightened up seems a tad cludgy. It could be designed with a larger round head bolt 180 degrees the other way round with a recess in its base for the plunger to sit in and the "block" being made from round stock with a threaded hole.
JJust a thought but maybe some of the chatter is from the clutch plates themselves similar to what Andy had on his dry clutch.
It's a VERY basic design it has to be said and to be fair I'm not very impressed with it... I'm no engineer, but just looking at clearance es and the fact you have to make it fit better just screams "It could be betterer..." to me. It some point, EVERYTHING on the engine is getting measured and replaced as needed, so I'll probably make my own version now I have some dimensions and an idea on how to improve it. It's just all very VERY close to stuff I don't want it to be 🤔
I’m still very much enjoying your videos Quiky
I’ve owned a few Kawasaki in line fours from your ZZR’s era, and beyond.
And I recollect that they did seem to be noisy machines.
I bought the original ZX10R new and after a baby like running-in style this machine also became noisy and ticking.
In comparison to my ear equally vintage Yamaha fours seem to sound like well lubricated electronic sowing machines at idle?
Thank you very much for watching Ian 😁👍
I'm sure this engine can run nicer than it is and yes they can be a bit noisy, but this is excessive I think... I'm probably going to get the van through its mot (after quite a bit of work), put the bike in the shop and pulk the engine apart I think...
Mornin' Mr Quickly, have you re-balanced the carbs since you started investigating the rattle? It sounds like it's hunting slightly which can lead to strange mechanical clattering noises.
Ah right, I fidnt know that. Thank you matey 👍
for silent running replace all sprockets and chains internally with belts and pulleys. Basically it seems like the backlash of chains and sprockets due to wear is a bit "open" beyond NEW spec maybe new chains on old sprockets? Then when under revs its chattering. Just guessing but if otherwise it's running sweet I'd leave it alone
I thinknits.justnold age and plenty of miles. I'm thinking of getting the van on the road again so I can retire the bike to the shop and do a complete strip down, measure EVERYTHING, and see if it's worth rebuilding. That way it would effectively be a new engine.
The accident occurs if the chain is used past the service limit. Mine was 3 times the service limit, which is 0.1mm per stick. Measured in the middle, the new chain measures 48mm. Chain in video looks like mine and it measured 40mm. Worn chain puts more strain on the tensioner so the lock breaks and the slide rail, wears out faster. A chain costs 20 euros. Old chain makes noise, a new one doesn't. Keep your parts within Kawasaki service limit.
How often does the chain need to be replaced?
@@andreap.2661 As I stated, my engine has 3875 miles on it, and there were marks from the tensioner hitting the clutch basket. This is bad engineering. If you haven't modified it, do it before your engine blows. This would prevent a Hyvo chain from locking and there would be no problem.
Job done and now you can have a break, have a kitkat.:-)
Hehehe.... its probably REALLY old 😅🤣😂
I had a similar problem with nothing when I ht the staarter, sounds like the same thing the starter lockout system , probably the clutch or sidestand switch
I've metered both and they seem fine, but this bike starts without having to pull the clitxhnin which is a bit odd 🤔
Virtually everything has been changed now apart from the switch gear (which I cleaned and metered ok), the starter motor itself and the wiring... it just seems like a dodgy connection somewhere as its not heat related and very hit and miss...
@@QuickBikes It does sound like a tricky one, usually the lockout system disconnects the earth on the switching side of the starter solenoid, you could try dropping a solid frame or loom earth on that , at least then you know the only line of fault is between the switch and solenoid and it will give you a clue where to look
Stopped the video when you had the clutch cover off, one other TH-camr was restoring a GPZ 1000 , Ronald finger but his bike had a similar problem, he fitted an upgrade kit to it, it was a common problem with them, from riding an CBR 900 , 1994 they all will give you problems it a labour of love.
Bikes are a labour of love whatever the model I think. Thanks for watching done of it though fella 😁👍
Not sure if you just misspoke @14:02 but the torque in the book is listed on page 8-21 as 87 in-lb which is 7.25 ft-lb.
Thank you, some people don't know the difference between .in" and .ft.' lbs.
Take it back of take measurements and make a few to sell or just to keep for future similar projects.
If I do it, I'll be improving it as this one ain't great 🤣😂👍
Sometimes mine won't start with the starter switch. More often than not it does start ok. I am quite certain it is the clutch switch that is the problem. If I pull the clutch in a couple of mm it starts, but if I pull it in all the way it doesn't.
It's really annoying when it doesn't though right 🤣😂😅
Mine starts without ever touching the clutch.... hmmmm..... 🤔
Dunno if this will help but had an issue with a fz750 know it's not the same machine but they ran piggy back altinator's/generator's the bike had a ticking noise tracked it down to the altinator mite be worth a check out 😁👍
Thank you matey, much appreciated 👍
Your a legend
I will make my own although I have replaced the part for $220 AUD
SO I don't know if it is necessary
Can the chain guide be replaced
Yes matey, it all comes apart so could be replaced 👍
Could it be a broken ring is it constant at any revs maybe clutch only my thoughts I did warn you about dynos
Love your videos
Hehehe... I'm not sure matey. I don't think it's a ring as I have food compression etc, definitely can be heard all the time regardless of clutch in or not, in gear or not and goes with revs... 🤔
Could the rattling your still getting be the carbs, needles/ seats maybe?🤔
I don't think so matey, sounds.link it's coming from inside the engine somewhere... 🤔
Mmm let me think, £75 for a tension tamer to force the wear pad further into the generator chain to take up the stack or £16 for a new generator chain.
I dont think the original tensioner spring get that weak over time.
Its the chain link pins and sprocket teeth that wear surely.
It does not push the tensioner into the chain if adjusted properly. It will also prevent your engine from exploding internally when the wear does occur, which will be much longer as the slack side of the chain will not be allowed to stretch.
@@johnthemodeler9281 sorry but you are incorrect. The whole point of the tool is to take up the wear in the chain/sprocket teeth that the original tensioner can no longer compensate for.
If the original tensioner is allowed to rotate on its arc it will contact the clutch basket resulting in damage.The original tensioner allows the chain to wrap around the gearing and only engage with 180° worth of gear teeth. With the tension tamer fitted the arc centre has been moved resulting in more deflection of the chain while avoiding interference with the clutch basket. The chain slack is pushed in so far that it now engages an extra 1 or 2 teeth on the sprockets. That is not good. But you are welcome to believe what you will.
Great video but 80+ ft lbs will snap the bolts in the block
It's 80 .inch lbs..read it again
You will tell us if its close eh...?
Or even painfully close? Cheers
Mate you should do your own version of the dothat and charge 120£!!!lol!!cheers!
Hehehe.. im going to have a go at one for sure, but that seems a bit steep 😅🤣😂
Gee them bloody Yankees aye what a burglars price for that thing ! Expensive kit Kat I was going to ask u if u knew the chain width on u were working on cause I m trying to install a tensioner out of zxr 750 in my fz750 for the alt chain and the slipper blade mighta done the trick. Nearee mind lol may b a change to a different oil and may be a tad heavier will help with engine noise just a thought keep up the gd work
Bloody expensive for what it is and I think I'm going yo make my own version... rip off in my book especially as the thing didnt fit right either 🤣😂
Haven't you got the bolt upside down? Then you can adjust from the bottom
I thought that initially but checking the online instructions it definitely goes up this way matey 👍
www.kwick.biz/product/tensioner-tamer-alternator-starter-chain-tensioner-fix/
Just looks counter intuitive to me, but then I do ride Triumphs 🤔
Hehehe.... I like that 🤣😂😅
Would be better made out of steel and then slimmed right down at the adjuster end, no need for it to be that chunky.
But still better than rapid violent disassembly of the clutch basket... 🤣
That's kinda what I was thinking. The original is all steel for a start, but as long as it works then I'm happy. If I do a complete measure everything and replace as needed on this engine at some point, I thinknim going to make my own... 🤔
I swear I have seen similar on the busa engine
I have to admit I prefer the manual tensioner idea.... 😁
Next video: how to change a worn chain tensioner blade...
It actually looked alright to me, but I could be wrong... the instructions said as tight as you can by hand, so that's what I did. Do you think that's wrong matey ?
@@QuickBikes I sent you a link to a video, in a earlier video, you can also find it on my channel, its not necessary to have the chain so tight, and you need a (2) thin washer 1 - 1,5 mm behind to give it better space, I have rounded the edges, you can see the shape of the one i use, it works ok for me 😉
Ah right, thanks for the info matey and so much for following the instructions hey. I must admit the more I think about how this thing fits and works, the less happy I am with it 🤣😂
I'll check out the video matey and thanks for chipping in 😁 👍
Could've just made a small pipe fit over the pin so it doesn't go back so far. 1.00 dollar fix.
I'm not a fan of that idea I'm afraid. I've seen a few stories on line where that ends in tears and others that say it's an awesome cheap fix that works. Anything that has results that differ so much can't be relied upon in my book... Personal choice I know and this approach cost more, but I wanted it properly sorted really. Thanks for watching and chipping in 😁👍
Now I get why the overpriced tensioner kit comes with a candy bar and a phone holder.. 👍🗽🇺🇸
Hehehe.... its just to sweeten you up a bit before fitting the thing 🤣😂
A Kawasaki isn’t a Kawasaki if it doesn’t sound like there’s been a bag of bolts emptied into the head.
Hehehe.... in that case, I've got a good one here 🤣😂😅
That’s a dear £75 for something you need to improve and fine tune yourself, lesson for others 🤔
It would take much tweeking to be fair... I'm probably going to make my own version at some point that's just got a bit more clearance where I think it needs it
Hahahaha!,1st
Good man 😁👍
@@QuickBikes I do try.!All the best,matey.
Boooo 2nd
Looosseeerrrrr....... 😂🤣😅
Hahahahaha!
The Compton one is FAR better ..... and, unlike THIS dogs-dinner, IS CNC machined.