It's kinda comforting to know I'm not alone. While tinkering with shocks after finishing this video, it occurred to me-- I might take a set of the Axials, bore the pistons out to "Amazon status" and fill 'em with diff oil. Shocks leak a lot more slowly with 400wt in them.
Gasp! That's like reading the manual! Only under circumstances most dire!😂 Also, it's juts like building a Traxxas Big Bore, which I've done too many times to count.
I hear you boss I have big hands like you plus I have neuropathy and I'm trying to put all the mods on my fusion and I'm telling you parts go flying little screws go flying Little nuts go flying and so do the cuss words lol but I love it I didn't even know about rock crawlers I had a losi truck and RC10 35 years ago I had no idea what they had these days I lost my mind and spent almost $2,000 on a workbench a fusion all the tools all the upgrades in about 3 days I had package is coming for week weeks lol I am so addicted to this I love it so thank you to guys like you who put these videos out and make it so much more interesting Plus you explain things to I'll never figure out myself have a blessed day Merry Christmas
I have the dravtech shorts on my rig and they work great but like you said the price is what gets you. I am however getting some traxxas 2660's big bore shocks and running the mini T springs for my next build.
I don't wanna say that the "small spring shock" is the way of the future, but I will say that I hope it is. Clean looks, and less chance of whanging a tire into it on a rig with 50º steering angle. Oh, and the factor I completely didn't think about-- if you're all about the matchy-matchy, Dravtechs come in what... 10 colors? 12?
This video couldn’t have popped up at more perfect time, I have some on my Phoenix straight axle and ordered a second pair for my Phoenix portal, the funny part is I’ve been tearing my house apart for two hours now looking for that second set of shocks! I still haven’t found them! Lol!
hi budy ,you can get atrx4 shocks and print the small spring cap adaptors (or buy them from IN THE WORKS RC /DIXILANDRC )and make them into a short sprig shock(losi mini t's or the ones you got in the bag with the drivetech) , you can go a bit further and put a 10mm pen spring inside on the piston to get a shorter strock and shorter overall shock - i made all my trx4 shocks this way - and the rigs are more stable and responsive ,less bouncy . i have drivetech shocks as well ,they are great ,not cheap but you get a very very nice quality shock(only 1 rig) ,i also got a set of traxxas 2660 which are the base for the drivetech - does the same work and as good as the drivetech -both options will be good ,the tr4 with short spring mode are cheaper ,the trxxas 2660 are also a little cheaper as well .
I've sampled the pen spring mod in a couple of different shocks and do not like it at all. I limit shocks under only very specific circumstances, and would rather manipulate ride height through shock selection and mount position. I feel the same about suspension bands, limit straps, etc. We're not dealing with 1:1 here, so I can change whatever component I need to to achieve the results I'm after. I just don't like taking travel away-- like why the Colonel is getting 80s: a limited 90mm and a "proper" 80mm are two entirely different things.
I have no real complaints about Lizards. I'm running a set on my all-TRX-4-but-with-AR45s build, and they're the only shock that will clear the damn Axial panhard mount. Even with Dravtechs in my life, It's unlikely that I've bought my last set of Lizards.
I had a similar reaction to these shocks when you set the rig down. Man those are smooth and controlled. They look ever so slightly slower to compress than my Element shocks with Associated 42.5 weight in them. Damn good shocks. Related to your grease comments, I bought a little tub of the Noleen SF-3 grease. It's rumored to be the same stuff as green slime and I had to order it direct from them. It's only 10 bucks for a tub of it, which will probably last 3 lifetimes lol
I put my first ever Dravtech's on my first ever Vanquish (Phoenix portal) and I think they are the best I have so far. I like my Elements, but the response from the Dravtech is soo good. I run mine upside down, and I think I have 60wt in them 'cause I like sloooow. I'm interested to see what increased spring rate does for you. I just built my first comp rig, and I used the Element builders kit as the base. So with straight axles, lcg chassis, I'm running full droop. My poor driving and maybe some steering are the only things that held it back. I think springs are going away completely, and my shock oil will just increase in wt. I find that my front can't be low enough (with the right bumper), and it can just pull itself over "most" obstacles. You have a 3d printer and can make your shock cups....and Losi Mini-T springs are great! Also, I'm still trying to send you a set of 3Bros Antifoams. Just sayin.
I appreciate your perspective on this since it parallels my experience. My first crawler is a Sendero HD that now lives on NWSD frame rails. Element (and Team Associated) are excellent shocks so I opted for them on my C1 build. 42.5 weight in all of them because that's the bottle I had. They just work really well. I am building a Phoenix portal kit now and have been curious what I'll think of the Incision shocks. I finally bought a new bottle of shock oil (lol) so these have 45 weight. My personal experience with the Element in comp is I noticed the improved turning radius with the 12% OD gearing more than I thought I would. I have the Team KNK 25% in it now, but the 12% was good. I also run a link riser on the rear axle of both my (Gspeed) C1 and (NWSD) Sendero trucks. That one might be placebo, but I swear that one helped with climbing and keeping the front end down. I run Antifoams and C1 Landmines on my C1 truck. They have been awesome on the rocks here and mossy loamy soil of the PNW
Those dravtechs are butter smooth. Those are my next shock I buy. Element shocks are super nice too with the mini t spring mod. I’ve got them on my Lcg rigs. The desert lizards are good on my heavy rigs that have more chassis weight.
Maybe that's what it is with Lizards-- I run soft/soft in every one of them, and most rigs are 7lbs plus, with the 6x6 being 11.5lbs. Maybe they're better at managing sprung weight?
@@CrawlerCanyon I’ve tried the lizards on my lightweight crawlers and wasn’t a fan of them. Even the lightest springs were too stiff for my 5lb-6lb truck. But they’re definitely a solid option for heavier trail trucks.
I must admit those shocks are fantastic. The truck seems to drive so smoothly with them fitted compared to before when it struggled after the chassis ugrade. I actually thought The colonel is worse than it was before BUT now with those shocks its transformed it. If I had the money id buy some, but I dont :) so I will have to stick with what I can get on a budget. Thanks for another informative and enjoyable video, really enojoyed it. Looking forward to the other shock video. And dont worry about the video length, we will watch it. Like you said "build it and they will come" "Record it and we will watch"
Like I say, I have no issues with Lizards, and don't understand the people that do. They're inexpensive, and come with multiple pistons, a variety of springs, and maintenance parts. Aside from the bespoke pivot ball for the "top" of the shock, they're all good AFAIC.
@@CrawlerCanyon I first learned of them from Logan aka West Desert Wheeler and love them. Like you said with all the supplied pistons and different springs and the price they’re great for what I want out of a shock. I know ole Josh from Harley Designs really dogs on them.
Prior to discovering the MST option shocks, I used to think that 80wt was "heavy." In go fast stuff, particularly running shocks like 8ights it wasn't uncommon to use 20-25wt. Now, I don't have a single crawler shock under 40wt, probably half a dozen on 80wt, and of course those couple with 3000cst or 5000cst diff oil.
I'm thinkin 30wt on the GS18? After your eloquent review which I must admit is a common occurrence what are your thoughts? On a side thing 1 out the 4 pre built is little crunchy Thanks my Man,,,
I tend to start at 40wt and go up, but if you're a superlite or don't have a lot of flex, you would maybe start at 30wt. 'Round here, anything under 6lbs is light, so there's probably more rigs running 50wt+ than there are running even 40wt, and nothing lighter than that.
I ended up using none of the supplied links, unless you count cutting and bending the included rear uppers to become rear lowers. Nice rails, though. Oh, and the money we save buying econo-LCG chassis, we can blow on things like Dravtechs! I'll take that trade.
Machined bodies, delrin pistons, different caps. Consider them "enhanced Big Bores." I still actually buy more Big Bores than Dravtechs, because I favor an 85mm shock.
@@CrawlerCanyon thanks I’m looking to optimize my comp setup , I’m running a Frankenstein setup now, Incsion S8E’s in the front and the stiffer GTS shocks in the back, I did get the incision tuning springs so might try those in the rear with the stiffest springs and go from there
@@CrawlerCanyon well what do you recommend for a class 2 crawler, I’m running a.VRD carbon, I’d like to get as much flex a possible while still maintaining as low as LCG as I can but don’t want to slam it
I'm having a issue finding a good shock for my scx10ii that's a trail rig its got some weight to it so seems like everything I been using had too much wobble back and forth any advise? Is it a oil weight thing? Or just need something with a stronger spring? I'm lost Amy advice is much appreciated thank you!
The spring ius just to keep the suspension from bottoming out. The "wobble" as you say is most likely insufficient damping-- the oil is too light to control the spring. There is also the possibility that the spring rate is too high, but the oil is far more likely. RTRs come with crazy light oil-- the Element oil bottle with every kit/RTR is 300cst, or roughly 26.5wt. I would start with 40wt as it's reasonably heavy, but the rig with still be "trailable" without bouncing around on over-damped shocks. Oh, and the only thing more likely to leak than Axial shocks? ProLine. If you feel like you want to replace the shocks, shop by whatever budget you're comfortable with. The Dravtechs are extraordinarily good-- but a bit on the pricy side. Traxxas GTS are very good, and half the price. But again-- the Dravtech are very, VERY good.
@Crawler Canyon thank you for your reply I'll be definitely be trying this out. And I'll also be checking out those Dravtech shocks I'm a big believer in spending a bit more if it's worth it. After watching your videos I do trust your recommendations. Thank. You again for the help!
Just wanted give you a update; I went to local hobby store I bought from 40 to 120 weight shock oil. Figured I'd use them on other rigs if needed, This was my first go at shock oil. I've always been like how much can it make a difference, and now I feel stupid for waiting as long as I did. So for the rig in question I ended up using 60 on it and it's absolutely perfect for it! And I was so pleased I went on a oil changing crazy did my bigrock and outcast 8s exb and the difference is so so so so so much better than stock oil. Sorry for long comment but I have to say THANK YOU so much if it wasn't for you and this channel I might have never had tried it! THANK YOU AGAIN!
The electric driver, or the hex-insert nutdriver itself? The electric part is the Bosch PS41 impact driver from the CLPK22-120 kit-- amzn.to/3YmU1YM If you mean the nutdriver insert, it's an Ofna from their toolkit, which I've had since the early 2000s.
I have Dravtechs on 4 rigs. I love them but element and trx4 shocks can be just as smooth. Those are the only shocks worth owning though. Element, Dravtechs and trx4s
@@CrawlerCanyon I have the 80mm Dravtech with 80 wt. I also got a full set up soft and medium springs. Obviously soft front. Do you think soft rear too? I’m guessing this would make the shock fully compressed at ride height and droop when the axle drops? I was thinking all droop setups had to have an internal spring in the shock body. Great detailed videos btw! You got me subscribed!
Great review man. I agree with your outcome. I have actually just started using the boomracing ludu big bore 80mm shocks. They are worth a try. But.... They need the med rate dravtech springs... Hahahaha. Stocks ones are so stiff. As always man. Great work. 😎👍👍
Oh no 😟 that was one thing delux said not to do. You shouldn’t put the bladder in the top cap like that in this video. You can ruin the bladder that way. And you want the oil to be concaved in the shocks so the bladder will sit in it.
Been listening to your video, (while I am working) on Dravtech shocks and like your review of them. Not sure I am a buyer and at this time I actually prefer the enduro shocks over desert lizards too. Due to a rise in costs the enduro shocks use to be around 75 to 80 bucks and have several sets of these in my parts bin and on my rigs. I like their smoothness. I am sure Dravtech shocks are good and see many posts on them from people but I have just not found I needed them since the enduro shock are so smooth and responsive for me. Keep up the great videos.
That's just it though-- the prices keep going up, to where if you were buying a la carte-- that is, the Element shocks didn't come on your RTR/kit, the set of Element Factory team shocks is $85-- and Dravtechs would be right around the same price. The price of "aftermarket" shocks has risen to a level of what I would call "completely insane." Incision Scale Shocks are $55 a pair, ProLine Big Bores are $67 a pair, the absurd Pitbull Kroniks are $90 a pair, and best of all, the Brood re-re of the Kyosho Velvet? $100 a pair. Fifty dollars for ONE shock. Absolutely mental.
The only Axial shocks I’ve got that haven’t leaked are the ones still in the box with the AR45 straight axle kit. Lol
It's kinda comforting to know I'm not alone. While tinkering with shocks after finishing this video, it occurred to me-- I might take a set of the Axials, bore the pistons out to "Amazon status" and fill 'em with diff oil. Shocks leak a lot more slowly with 400wt in them.
Dravtech has a very informative video on how to build these shocks. It’s a must see to get it right for us rookies.
Gasp! That's like reading the manual! Only under circumstances most dire!😂
Also, it's juts like building a Traxxas Big Bore, which I've done too many times to count.
@@CrawlerCanyon You should check out their video - They have different recommendations for how to put the seal in place
I hear you boss I have big hands like you plus I have neuropathy and I'm trying to put all the mods on my fusion and I'm telling you parts go flying little screws go flying Little nuts go flying and so do the cuss words lol but I love it I didn't even know about rock crawlers I had a losi truck and RC10 35 years ago I had no idea what they had these days I lost my mind and spent almost $2,000 on a workbench a fusion all the tools all the upgrades in about 3 days I had package is coming for week weeks lol I am so addicted to this I love it so thank you to guys like you who put these videos out and make it so much more interesting Plus you explain things to I'll never figure out myself have a blessed day Merry Christmas
I have the dravtech shorts on my rig and they work great but like you said the price is what gets you. I am however getting some traxxas 2660's big bore shocks and running the mini T springs for my next build.
I don't wanna say that the "small spring shock" is the way of the future, but I will say that I hope it is. Clean looks, and less chance of whanging a tire into it on a rig with 50º steering angle.
Oh, and the factor I completely didn't think about-- if you're all about the matchy-matchy, Dravtechs come in what... 10 colors? 12?
This video couldn’t have popped up at more perfect time, I have some on my Phoenix straight axle and ordered a second pair for my Phoenix portal, the funny part is I’ve been tearing my house apart for two hours now looking for that second set of shocks! I still haven’t found them! Lol!
hi budy ,you can get atrx4 shocks and print the small spring cap adaptors (or buy them from IN THE WORKS RC /DIXILANDRC )and make them into a short sprig shock(losi mini t's or the ones you got in the bag with the drivetech) , you can go a bit further and put a 10mm pen spring inside on the piston to get a shorter strock and shorter overall shock - i made all my trx4 shocks this way - and the rigs are more stable and responsive ,less bouncy . i have drivetech shocks as well ,they are great ,not cheap but you get a very very nice quality shock(only 1 rig) ,i also got a set of traxxas 2660 which are the base for the drivetech - does the same work and as good as the drivetech -both options will be good ,the tr4 with short spring mode are cheaper ,the trxxas 2660 are also a little cheaper as well .
I've sampled the pen spring mod in a couple of different shocks and do not like it at all. I limit shocks under only very specific circumstances, and would rather manipulate ride height through shock selection and mount position. I feel the same about suspension bands, limit straps, etc. We're not dealing with 1:1 here, so I can change whatever component I need to to achieve the results I'm after. I just don't like taking travel away-- like why the Colonel is getting 80s: a limited 90mm and a "proper" 80mm are two entirely different things.
came looking for a review of these shocks. left after buying traxxas shocks from jennys. Thanks for the tip. earned a sub. :)
I really like desert lizards mounted upside down for trx4 and vs410 but I’m dying to try some dravtech shocks
I have no real complaints about Lizards. I'm running a set on my all-TRX-4-but-with-AR45s build, and they're the only shock that will clear the damn Axial panhard mount.
Even with Dravtechs in my life, It's unlikely that I've bought my last set of Lizards.
I had a similar reaction to these shocks when you set the rig down. Man those are smooth and controlled. They look ever so slightly slower to compress than my Element shocks with Associated 42.5 weight in them. Damn good shocks. Related to your grease comments, I bought a little tub of the Noleen SF-3 grease. It's rumored to be the same stuff as green slime and I had to order it direct from them. It's only 10 bucks for a tub of it, which will probably last 3 lifetimes lol
Yes another great video. I waited every night for a video to get uploaded lol. Hope u had a good day today. We getting a storm in ny
I put my first ever Dravtech's on my first ever Vanquish (Phoenix portal) and I think they are the best I have so far. I like my Elements, but the response from the Dravtech is soo good. I run mine upside down, and I think I have 60wt in them 'cause I like sloooow. I'm interested to see what increased spring rate does for you. I just built my first comp rig, and I used the Element builders kit as the base. So with straight axles, lcg chassis, I'm running full droop. My poor driving and maybe some steering are the only things that held it back. I think springs are going away completely, and my shock oil will just increase in wt. I find that my front can't be low enough (with the right bumper), and it can just pull itself over "most" obstacles.
You have a 3d printer and can make your shock cups....and Losi Mini-T springs are great!
Also, I'm still trying to send you a set of 3Bros Antifoams. Just sayin.
Well send 'em then!
I appreciate your perspective on this since it parallels my experience. My first crawler is a Sendero HD that now lives on NWSD frame rails. Element (and Team Associated) are excellent shocks so I opted for them on my C1 build. 42.5 weight in all of them because that's the bottle I had. They just work really well. I am building a Phoenix portal kit now and have been curious what I'll think of the Incision shocks. I finally bought a new bottle of shock oil (lol) so these have 45 weight.
My personal experience with the Element in comp is I noticed the improved turning radius with the 12% OD gearing more than I thought I would. I have the Team KNK 25% in it now, but the 12% was good. I also run a link riser on the rear axle of both my (Gspeed) C1 and (NWSD) Sendero trucks. That one might be placebo, but I swear that one helped with climbing and keeping the front end down.
I run Antifoams and C1 Landmines on my C1 truck. They have been awesome on the rocks here and mossy loamy soil of the PNW
Those dravtechs are butter smooth. Those are my next shock I buy. Element shocks are super nice too with the mini t spring mod. I’ve got them on my Lcg rigs. The desert lizards are good on my heavy rigs that have more chassis weight.
Maybe that's what it is with Lizards-- I run soft/soft in every one of them, and most rigs are 7lbs plus, with the 6x6 being 11.5lbs. Maybe they're better at managing sprung weight?
@@CrawlerCanyon I’ve tried the lizards on my lightweight crawlers and wasn’t a fan of them. Even the lightest springs were too stiff for my 5lb-6lb truck. But they’re definitely a solid option for heavier trail trucks.
I must admit those shocks are fantastic. The truck seems to drive so smoothly with them fitted compared to before when it struggled after the chassis ugrade. I actually thought The colonel is worse than it was before BUT now with those shocks its transformed it. If I had the money id buy some, but I dont :) so I will have to stick with what I can get on a budget. Thanks for another informative and enjoyable video, really enojoyed it. Looking forward to the other shock video. And dont worry about the video length, we will watch it. Like you said "build it and they will come" "Record it and we will watch"
I run 100mm Drav’s on my negative G. Put 6mm limiters inside. Absolute goat and they are so smooth
I love your reaction to the ride height and sagging to full compression…let it ride, exactly. Heavier oil will slow the suspension drop out.
Hey, warst vorhin im Crawler Canyon Live Chat oder?
I been wanting to pick up those shocks. For my Land shark chassis
I’m runnin 100mm Lizards on my UMG10 6X6 and workin great so far.
Like I say, I have no issues with Lizards, and don't understand the people that do. They're inexpensive, and come with multiple pistons, a variety of springs, and maintenance parts. Aside from the bespoke pivot ball for the "top" of the shock, they're all good AFAIC.
@@CrawlerCanyon I first learned of them from Logan aka West Desert Wheeler and love them. Like you said with all the supplied pistons and different springs and the price they’re great for what I want out of a shock. I know ole Josh from Harley Designs really dogs on them.
As usual....another great RC shock review as well as other info that is worth absorbing. Thanks!!!
I run heavy oil in all my crawlers, imo you need control not cyclic rate on crawlers. Another great video
Prior to discovering the MST option shocks, I used to think that 80wt was "heavy." In go fast stuff, particularly running shocks like 8ights it wasn't uncommon to use 20-25wt. Now, I don't have a single crawler shock under 40wt, probably half a dozen on 80wt, and of course those couple with 3000cst or 5000cst diff oil.
@@CrawlerCanyon 70w and 80w
in all mine
If you're not greasy, are you even having fun yet?
As we say in the shop, "it ain't a project until it's got blood on it." So no, I guess the fun can't start until at least one person is greasy.
I was expecting Wizard of Oz weather when you went outside because of da noises on ya roof 😅😂😅 it was actually quite nice.
what tires are those i have a pair and they seam to be ok but wondering on the make and compound
Duratrax Scalers.
@CrawlerCanyon ok I have some knock offs of those and was wondering
I'm thinkin 30wt on the GS18? After your eloquent review which I must admit is a common occurrence what are your thoughts?
On a side thing 1 out the 4 pre built is little crunchy Thanks my Man,,,
I tend to start at 40wt and go up, but if you're a superlite or don't have a lot of flex, you would maybe start at 30wt. 'Round here, anything under 6lbs is light, so there's probably more rigs running 50wt+ than there are running even 40wt, and nothing lighter than that.
Always a good show, keep up the good work!
Building a rig from an eBay carbon fiber chassis and the links and shocks are giving me hell. I may try these but man they’re not cheap!
I ended up using none of the supplied links, unless you count cutting and bending the included rear uppers to become rear lowers. Nice rails, though.
Oh, and the money we save buying econo-LCG chassis, we can blow on things like Dravtechs! I'll take that trade.
I just got set myself and put them on my gspeed!!! Will be buying more great shocks best yet I’ve tried for sure❤😊
How are these different than the traxxas big bore shocks ?
Machined bodies, delrin pistons, different caps. Consider them "enhanced Big Bores." I still actually buy more Big Bores than Dravtechs, because I favor an 85mm shock.
@@CrawlerCanyon thanks I’m looking to optimize my comp setup , I’m running a Frankenstein setup now, Incsion S8E’s in the front and the stiffer GTS shocks in the back, I did get the incision tuning springs so might try those in the rear with the stiffest springs and go from there
@@CrawlerCanyon well what do you recommend for a class 2 crawler, I’m running a.VRD carbon, I’d like to get as much flex a possible while still maintaining as low as LCG as I can but don’t want to slam it
I'm having a issue finding a good shock for my scx10ii that's a trail rig its got some weight to it so seems like everything I been using had too much wobble back and forth any advise? Is it a oil weight thing? Or just need something with a stronger spring? I'm lost Amy advice is much appreciated thank you!
Pro line shocks
The spring ius just to keep the suspension from bottoming out. The "wobble" as you say is most likely insufficient damping-- the oil is too light to control the spring. There is also the possibility that the spring rate is too high, but the oil is far more likely. RTRs come with crazy light oil-- the Element oil bottle with every kit/RTR is 300cst, or roughly 26.5wt. I would start with 40wt as it's reasonably heavy, but the rig with still be "trailable" without bouncing around on over-damped shocks.
Oh, and the only thing more likely to leak than Axial shocks? ProLine. If you feel like you want to replace the shocks, shop by whatever budget you're comfortable with. The Dravtechs are extraordinarily good-- but a bit on the pricy side. Traxxas GTS are very good, and half the price. But again-- the Dravtech are very, VERY good.
@Crawler Canyon thank you for your reply I'll be definitely be trying this out.
And I'll also be checking out those Dravtech shocks I'm a big believer in spending a bit more if it's worth it. After watching your videos I do trust your recommendations. Thank. You again for the help!
Just wanted give you a update; I went to local hobby store I bought from 40 to 120 weight shock oil. Figured I'd use them on other rigs if needed,
This was my first go at shock oil. I've always been like how much can it make a difference, and now I feel stupid for waiting as long as I did. So for the rig in question I ended up using 60 on it and it's absolutely perfect for it! And I was so pleased I went on a oil changing crazy did my bigrock and outcast 8s exb and the difference is so so so so so much better than stock oil.
Sorry for long comment but I have to say THANK YOU so much if it wasn't for you and this channel I might have never had tried it!
THANK YOU AGAIN!
What brand 4mm wheel hex driver are you using in this video?
The electric driver, or the hex-insert nutdriver itself? The electric part is the Bosch PS41 impact driver from the CLPK22-120 kit-- amzn.to/3YmU1YM
If you mean the nutdriver insert, it's an Ofna from their toolkit, which I've had since the early 2000s.
I have Dravtechs on 4 rigs. I love them but element and trx4 shocks can be just as smooth. Those are the only shocks worth owning though. Element, Dravtechs and trx4s
You should sell those Shock Service Stations.
How are people running their Dravs for droop?
Run the softest springs, or no springs at all-- and up the oil weight as well, I would think at least to 60wt. This would give no rebound.
@@CrawlerCanyon I have the 80mm Dravtech with 80 wt. I also got a full set up soft and medium springs.
Obviously soft front. Do you think soft rear too?
I’m guessing this would make the shock fully compressed at ride height and droop when the axle drops? I was thinking all droop setups had to have an internal spring in the shock body.
Great detailed videos btw! You got me subscribed!
Great review man.
I agree with your outcome.
I have actually just started using the boomracing ludu big bore 80mm shocks.
They are worth a try.
But....
They need the med rate dravtech springs...
Hahahaha.
Stocks ones are so stiff.
As always man.
Great work.
😎👍👍
Oh no 😟 that was one thing delux said not to do. You shouldn’t put the bladder in the top cap like that in this video. You can ruin the bladder that way. And you want the oil to be concaved in the shocks so the bladder will sit in it.
Been listening to your video, (while I am working) on Dravtech shocks and like your review of them. Not sure I am a buyer and at this time I actually prefer the enduro shocks over desert lizards too. Due to a rise in costs the enduro shocks use to be around 75 to 80 bucks and have several sets of these in my parts bin and on my rigs. I like their smoothness. I am sure Dravtech shocks are good and see many posts on them from people but I have just not found I needed them since the enduro shock are so smooth and responsive for me. Keep up the great videos.
That's just it though-- the prices keep going up, to where if you were buying a la carte-- that is, the Element shocks didn't come on your RTR/kit, the set of Element Factory team shocks is $85-- and Dravtechs would be right around the same price. The price of "aftermarket" shocks has risen to a level of what I would call "completely insane." Incision Scale Shocks are $55 a pair, ProLine Big Bores are $67 a pair, the absurd Pitbull Kroniks are $90 a pair, and best of all, the Brood re-re of the Kyosho Velvet? $100 a pair. Fifty dollars for ONE shock. Absolutely mental.
Great review
Yay. Shocks
I feel I offend people when I tell them I run Dravs on the rear and Deserts on the front 😆
Smash the like button, because I keep forgetting