Wiring diagram for GARMIN LIVESCOPE-shuttle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Z walks you through how he wired his Livescope. Please let us know, if we missed anything!
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Best wiring video I've seen
Glad you think so! Thank You.
Excellent. Thank You
Thanks for watching!
I enjoy the way you prepare and teach Great job
Hi, thanks for the helpful info, I’m building a shuttle also, I will be running the amped outdoors 48 AH battery, what size and type of screws did you use to attach terminals to battery, they seem to be a push on style ? TIA
The tall 30ah Amped battery has spade connectors. That is the correct size for the Summit shuttle that we use.
Really appreciate the time you took to do the video.
Do you know what voltage is coming out of the accessory cable?
Is it 12volt or regulated down to 5volt?
I have a 12 volt accessory I want to power.
The power cord accessory branch supplies 12 volts. The usb accessory that we attached regulates the voltage itself.
Thanks for the video I purchased the exact same setup. I have a few questions..
1. Are those the original shuttle switch wires or ones you purchased?
2. On the bottom of the switch is it the Garmin cable connected to the switch? Or am I joining a wire to the Garmin cable?
Some of the wires were purchased, some 14 ga. wire and the combo power cable described in the video. The bottom of the switch gets the power for the unit and the black box, in this case through the optional combo cable. You can chose to join the two hot (red) wires from the two power cables provided with the unit if you do not want to us the combo cable.
Great video! What battery would you recommend for an Echomap Ultra 106sv ? Also, can you use the USB port as an input for recharging the battery ? Thank you :)
The Amped 30 ah battery would work for the larger screen as well. The power coming from the usb port is coming from the battery so no you can't charge the unit battery from that port. It can be used to charge a camera or phone though. Of course anything you use to draw from that usb will shorten the run time of the Garmin.
Curious on y u can’t use the charging port from the harness from Scheels for the amped battery ??
You never want to use a lead acid charger to charge a lithium battery. You don't want to go the other way either, neither will work well and both will be very hard on the battery.
@@sevenfishyoutube ok .. I didn’t realize that end was for a lead battery. Thx u for responding.
@@sevenfishyoutube He didn’t say the charger- he said the charging port on the Garmin harness- which you could 100% have used instead the two pin Amped one. Lithium or SLA batteries don’t care what the connection looks like
Can you share any regrets with using the 75 vs a 95 sized unit with your livescope setup. I just got the 75sv 3 days ago and contemplating building the same livescope setup with Summit too.
Excellent debate, I have ran 3 different sizes now personally. The 7 is a great lightweight set up which is the set up I use most of the time on the ice. Would be great for kayak as well. I have also spent a lot of time on the ice with my 9, it’s a bit heavier but that bigger screen size is GREAT for seeing a lot, and could be beneficial if two plus people are using the same unit. I recently installed a 12 for a customer and holy buckets does that screen light up the world! The graphics are also much better on the 1222.
Here’s what I’ll say, buy what you can afford, if you can go a touch bigger, do it. Less eye strain, clearer picture, etc. All screen sizes will work, but once you use bigger you will never downsize.
Use me as an example, I have now owned a 4 inch Garmin screen, then a 6,7 and now a 9…
@@sevenfishyoutube Thanks for sharing your trails and errors, all great points! I went with the 75 because I was afraid of cracking the screen on anything larger as I already cracked a Lowrance 4" and replaced it with the 75sv. I just walk on the ice and pull, still don't really know how the Lowrance cracked. Good point about smaller is a better fit for paddle boats. I would also add less gear to lose for the eventual capsizing too, which I've already experienced. Almost lost a Diawa Steez AGS baitcaster, but saved it and my life that day. Lost pliers and a spool of floro only. Reminder to myself, to never bring anything expensive like a panoptix shuttle on a kayak or canoe. That is quite a collection of Garmin hardware you have. I feel better after reading your story about my decision on the 75 now, thank you.
@@robertwong5026 Hopefully you have all of that bad luck behind you. Thanks for the kind words and tight lines!
WIth the Garmin Combo cable are you saying the red wire on the combo cable plugs directly into the bottom row of the summit rocket switch OR are things being spliced someplace? Also What is the swich powering on / off? Thank you.
If you look at the picture of the combo power cable in this video you can see the same inline fuse holder that is connected directly to the lowest position of the rocker switch on the shuttle. Throwing this switch powers on the Garmin head unit, the black box for the Live scope, and whatever you have connected to the accessory wire. In Z's setup that would be the usb receptacle.
Also, thanks for watching and commenting!
When you merged the 2 back wires, one from garmin and one of your own. Did you merge them by crimping the 2 into a third wire and then to the battery? Or did you you just strip, and crimp the two wires strait to the battery attachment?
We stripped the two wires and intermingled the copper then twisted and put it into a crimp connector that goes on the battery. Thanks for the question, hope it helps.
Thank you, also could I use 10 gauge wire on the whole setup?
10 ga wire would not be required for such short runs. That large of a differential in size would be difficult to splice with a crimp connector meaning joining wires would require solder and heat shrink or the like. Those power cord leads are 16 or 14 gage from Garmin. You should not have a problem with voltage drop with the short (under 2 foot) lead length.
So I should probably use 12 gauge for all the wiring.
12-14 for a portable unit should be fine, I use 12 in my boat where I had 10-18 foot runs. If you did that with smaller gage (14 or 16) wire you would lose volts to the system. If you had 14volts @ the battery it could be down to 12ish @ the locator. When you get later in the day and the battery drain to the 12 volt level the unit may be trying to operate at below 10.5 volts and shut down or run really hot.
No in-line fuses or did I miss them? BTW, I am so grateful you did this video. I just bought the same battery I'm putting my livescope on a bass raider, so I don't need to run 20 feet of wire like I've seen on most videos, so yours was similar to what I'll be installing except I'm not creating a shuttle.
There is an inline fuse built into the Garmin power cable. It can be seen @ 5:16 when Z shows the second (lower) red wire on the back side of the power switch. Thanks for the comment!
@@sevenfishyoutube... thanks. I assumed I probably missed it.
With this configuration, does the switch kill power to the head unit and the black box (basically isolating the battery from everything else), or does the switch only kill power to one specific unit and if so, which unit can still be powered on with the switch turned off?
Thanks for the question, I rigged it so the switch shuts everything off. I can still charge the battery with the switch off though. We did it because the black box doesn’t have a power switch, which means it’s always on (pulling VERY low amps)
So you cant cut off the plug for the garmin plug in and hookup the amped one instead on the same wires?
You can do that (be sure you make a good connection) but the double prong spade connection works also and more people are comfortable with that than splicing wires. Good luck fishing
Question. I ran 12 gauge. Followed your directions and it will not power up. I then took the wires off the see if I could get the on off switch to work and it would light up and turn off if I uses posts 1 and 3. Is the gauge I am using to big. It seems the same size as the red Garmin cord. If I put the wire back to the original Garmin cord. Ever thing works. I like how u did it…I need help.
12 gage is not too big, however i would need more info to correctly diagnose the issue. Most of the time the electrical connections are to blame. I don't know how long the extensions are in your case and what method you used to connect them.
Great video, all the wiring diagrams I have seen the Garmin Cable positive with inline fuse goes to the middle positive prong on the switch. However in your video you are connecting the Garmin positive to the bottom positive prong of the switch. I am confused as to why.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I have replied to your email!
For the black wires to the switch, instead of merging the two black wires to go to the top prong of the switch, could you use a piggy back double style spade connector and just run both black wires in that way to the top prong on the switch? Going through this exact wiring at the moment same shuttle and battery style and that’s what I was gonna do. Just making sure I’m not missing something and need to connect the black wires first before connecting them.
it should work fine like that but there isn't a ton of room behind that little switch.
@@sevenfishyoutube ended up splicing all blacks together into one spade terminal. Totally correct about room behind the switch. I cleaned up everything pretty nice with heat shrink waterproof connectors. Also wired in a Vexilar glow cup that runs on its own power switch after the shuttle switch.
Sounds tidy and functional.
How long does that 30ah run your Lvs & do u have a 9 or 10" screen? I just got amped outdoors 32ah 14.8v lithium for my new kayak set up. It will b running ultra 106sv with Lvs34 & steady cast heading sensor. Trying get idea what to really expect.
Have not run it out yet but the claimed run time for my 9 inch screen is 21 hours, so...
Looking to run the same set up man!
@@johnlieu you will be extremely happy with it for sure! I've been kayak fishing almost 9 yrs now. I've never owned any electronics till past winter. I'm not sure why I waited so long... That 32ah 14.8v lithium amped outdoors battery will run my ultra 106sv, steady cast & lvs34 system for 13-15 hours on average, with everything on. It's very small & just under 4lbs. Unless you have the battery upfront with all your electronics, so the factory cords reach the battery. Make sure you use correct wire size! I ran 8awg marine wire from back to front. My electronics are all in front, my diy battery box is in my create behind my seat. I used a trolling motor quick connect on my battery box & power supply wire. I've heard of voltage problems from yak power & FPV. I have exactly same voltage at my electronics as directly at my battery. The lvs34 systems specs say no less than 10awg wire for supply power. Neither of those power distribution devices have close to that size wire!
@@maxcole3930 Thanks for the extra tips and details! I got the 106SV and have no issue with that. But I opened my LVS34 yesterday and I was like where the heck does the power go to, so seeing your recommendation for the combo wire was a huge help.
@@johnlieu no problem at all, any other questions don't hesitate! I spent a lot time with total& error... Another thing I don't think I mentioned on my set up. I ran the main power supply cable ( 8awg marine wire) up front inside my PA12 to my front hatch. At the front hatch I originally had a positive & negative bus bars. So I could connect the 3 separate devices to the single incoming power. I then switched it to posi locks. Which is a cleaner set up. I had zero problems with the bus bars. Like I said it was a cleaner set up. The posi locks allow you to connect all 3 device cables to the single incoming power. Pos & neg separate of course. If you have ever heard of the Sea Clear Power Harnesses? That's what they use on there harnesses for connections. The Posi locks I mean... I'm using the Fishing Specialties kayak bowducer with their lvs34 transducer mount. It lets you do front, down & perspective mode quick & easy deployment & changing views. Plus allows you to change angle of perspective mode for different depths. The Garmin mount will fit on their pole too, but it's worth getting their transducer mount for sure! I highly recommend the steady cast too. Enjoy the set up! It is awesome!
What is the cable called that you have running from your network on the black box to your screen?
Garmin calls it a Marine network cable.
I just bought the Garmin power cable 010-12676-40 as shown but guess I didn't know my GPSMAP 1222svx needed the 8 pin connector. Do you know if they make a power cable like this for the larger units? Thanks
They do not, I rigged a GPSMAP 1222 for a customer and had to make one myself... Unfortunately!
I followed your diagram, I have power to the switch, it lites up but (garmin) 106sv head unit doesn't come on ?
hard to say with the information provided but perhaps there is voltage loss. It takes a lot more voltage to run a head unit than it does to light a switch.
Do you think an M18 battery would fit where the battery should go?
You could technically place two side by side!
What about the screen to the livescope amp
The gls 10 uses a Garmin marine network cable to talk to the head unit.
Notice you didn’t ground the black box
The power cord connected to the black box makes both hot and ground connection. Thanks for commenting.