No not Fail! Make more space from end of saw blade to mower deck/guard (smaller saw blade). This will allow the grass to enter in between the deck and the blade. 👍
@@paulb7334 not necessary, the solid deck is a federal government mandate ( OSAH or some agency). Some people are not smart enough to keep hands & feet away from high speed spinning blade.
Saw blades have no lift, no air sucking the grass up to be cut. If you made the front of the deck adjustable like the old dixie choppers those saw blades would be mean in brush. Or just cut the front of the deck off so the grass and brush can feed right into the blades
That’s what I was thinking. Take the front deck off and this is a mean brush cutter. Unfortunately doing that to the deck makes it a poor mower. Unless you make some sort oh hinge mechanism so you can put it back on to mow with a proper blade.
One problem I noticed was, you had one saw blade teeth facing one direction and the other blade facing the opposite direction. Both need to be facing the same direction towards the discharge chute. Also cut some vertical slots in the front leading edge of mower deck to allow taller vegetation in. 3th, get yourself some livestock (cows🐂🐄, sheep🐑, goats 🐐, equine 🐎🦓, that they will gladly eat/graze all that vegetation down. I have not worried about mowing my yard area for decades. 👆😉🙂
Hallo super Idee aber die Sägeblätter müssen kleiner sein , damit das Gras sich unten im Mähgehäuse aufstellen kann. Sonst rutscht das Gras nur über die Sägeblätter drunter durch . Das heißt du brauchst im Mähgehäuse vor den Blättern Luft , damit das Gras da gerade eingezogen werden kann . Oder du verwendest ein Messer das 4 Klingen hat . Jede Klinge steht zur anderen um 90 Grad versetzt ( wie ein Kreuz) . Mfg.
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All you really need to do to make this a "better than fail" result is to cut big notches out of the front of your deck so the forward-most section of teeth contact the plant material head on before that front lip of the deck has folded them over 😉 I have done something similar to a 1984 JD 112l I like to play with from time to time and it was incredibly effective. It might require some welded structural supports after removing sections of the deck, especially if you plan on getting rough with your play.... I drive mine into the woods and cut down trees saplings!
you are forgetting something, or maybe you just don't know. that lifted area right behind the tip of the blade is called the "sail". it has 2 purposes. 1. it helps throw the grass out from under the deck. 2. it acts like a vacuum in that it pulls in air from the edges of the deck which in turn helps stand the grass up so that the blades can cut it. The uplifted area to the inside of the tip, is the mulching area of the blade. it's function is to pull the air(and the grass) down through the blades again, cutting the clippings into smaller pieces and then throw them down onto the freshly cut area. If you want to mow taller grass, buy a set of "high lift" blades. this type of blade does NOT have a "mulching" area on the blade, but it DOES have a higher "sail" that moves more air to help stand up the grass. Plus, it throws the grass out from under the deck more efficiently . You will have to open the side chute cover on the deck before any of this will work. I hope this info helps you
Due to the engine struggling to turn discs I would recommend removing some of the material from inside the desks to create what would look a bit like a wheel with teeth on the outside of it. This should help reduce weight but also increase the speed at which they can be rotated at. Also It might not be the best lawnmower ever created, but Jesus, it’s the one mower I want in a zombie apocalypse, you can really run over all those crawling zombies
Why you thought that would be a good idea is beyond me mower blades are designed to pull the grass up with air force to also cut the grass circular blades are gonna do nothing
That's exactly what I was getting ready to say. Lol The blades creates a suction that lifts the grass upwards as it cuts it. These so called circular blades, they aren't even designed to cut, there's no teeth on them, so how could they even cut anything! Lmao Now, maybe if he had real saw blades on there with the front part of the mower deck cut off, then it would cut way better than it will like it is now. I don't know what he was thinking! 😂
The main problem cutting very tall grass and weeds is the deck gets clogged too easily, slowing down the blades and engine. The solution is to cut away the front of the mower deck so the grass doesn't have to only go out the chute on the side. There is a problem with this though, cut grass will spray out in such force to the front it'll hit the front wheels etc and splatter back towards you and the mower coating everything with green gunk. It's still useful though. I have two decks now. One cut away for doing tall grass, and one unaltered for mowing normal length grass.
The circular blades aren't being used because the Deck of the Mower acts like a shield. If you expose the circular blades they will cut. The Deck pushes the grass over and so does the circular because there isn't enough clearance to let the grass stand again. Cut the Deck of the Mowers edges to expose the spinning blades and I bet it cuts just fine. But beware of what flies.
Try this little trick..... Take 2 sets of regular blades, cross them over like an X on each side and give that a go. The problem with the circular blades is that there is no space between the blades and the deck for the grass to stick up above them to be cut. They are simply mashing the grass down. I have never done the X blade method myself but I have seen videos on here where other people and especially high grass seems to fall victim to them every time..... Good luck!
You need to cut the vertical portion off the front of the deck. Then the blade will hit the grass. Of course it could still get wrapped around the spindles, because those blades won't chop the grass into small pieces like the normal blades. Funny experiment, though!
Part of the reason the circular sawblades won't work well is because they aren't sharpened. However, more than that - standard mower blades act somewhat like fan blades, which you'll notice they have an angular piece on the back of each side of the blade. These angled pieces make the blades double as propellers, pulling the grass up into the blades while they spin. This is what makes the knives very efficient at finish cutting. For what is trying to be accomplished here, you can try angling the 'teeth' of the sawblades down 10 or so degrees, then sharpen the leading edges. That should accomplish similar results to the knives, but the torque of the engine will limit what they can cut. Additionally, having that many teeth will only be realistically useful for going very fast across very thin foliage. For thick foliage, heavy brush blades that can swivel from their hub and have a blade all the way down the shaft will be far more effective. Brush blades for trimmers use this concept very effectively, some even going as far as serrating the blades.
It would leave grass uncut the size of the saw blades only cutting grass where the edges of the blade hits thats why big uneven patches are being left (alot more passes would be required).regular saw blades rely on the length of the blade not a flat surface..a thinner bar type blade creates an updraft effect
Yep. I didn’t think that they would work. Even your original blades were not the correct ones for doing what you were trying to do. You need to get high lift blades. The ones that you have are just created for mulching with the discharge chute being closed off so that the grass could re-circulate inside the deck to get more finely cut. The circular blades didn’t work because they had no lift at all. They Just pushed the grass down.
smarter every day made a video showing how lawnmower blades work, I would recommend checking that out. another idea is to stack the blades so that they make a cross. I've thought about doing this bit haven't yet. I have a mower I use for blazing trails at our hunting property. I'm often going through heavy grasses. those might help me but I would want to slow the blades down a bit to make the belt last longer and the hubs not blow out
It's because there there is no suction. Blades will create an updraft(like a fan) pulling the grass up rather than just pushing them over. If you put holes in the saws it will create a suction(think of a fan) but then basically you just have blades, more or less.
You'd have to take off the housing of which the blades are it, that way there is room for the grass to actually hit the front/edge of the blades when the blades turn
I think the diameter of the saw blades are so close to edges of the deck that when you drive over tall weeds/grass the holds them down below the blade and the don't get cut. A regular mower blade has all the room on both sides giving the tall grass time to pop up higher than the blade and will get cut. Two ideas, either make the diameter of the two saw blades 3/4 of the current diameter size made or remove the front of the deck exposing both saw blades to the grass to be cut. Bar blades have a wing on them that draws air in pulling the grass upward into the spinning blade and the air is forced out of it's one opening pushing the cut grass out with it.
You either need to cut the front of that guard off or get smaller blades you didn't leave enough clearance for the grass to even get up under that deck into the blade
Stick with it and with a few trials and errors you might be onto the next big thing. I suggest cutting holes in the saw blades similar to tire rims. My thinking is that it would create more lift and mulch the grass similar if not better than those X-blades
Add a vacuum to grass shoot and you will find excellent performance. You need to have air flow to suck the grass up into the blade. The lawnmower blade has a air foil that sucks the grass up
Try using Flail Mower knives about 6 inches long on a rotating shaft. Weld the knife anchors in a helix around about a 3" diameter hollow shaft and run it at about 1,000 rpm. You'd be amazed how well it will cut 3 feet tall weeds and mulch ot up very fine. I ran a 72 inch Mott flail mower on an old very well worn 1948 8N Ford rowcrop tractor that made 24 hp new and it cut like a championship mower. That Mott had about a 4" roller under it and if I cut 6" or 8" grass it looked fantastic. But even 3' tall weeds cut easily and mulched down.
As long as we're experimenting here, cut the lead edge off the deck, so the blade meets standing grass. The deck is pushing the grass over, not the blades. Also, change the oil in your transmission. It didn't sound too happy. Other than that, I give your experiment a -10.
I'm fairly certain the issue is that the blades lift the the grass and cut it. The saw blades don't lift the grass, hence poor performance in tall grass.
If you want those blades to work you have to open up the front of the blade shroud (the mower deck) if they can not get to the grass they can not cut the grass. you would have to remove at least the lower edge of the deck up to the flat surface. I would suggest you add a leading edge bar that rides behind the front wheels to help deflect any objects that might be otherwise hit. Keep in mind how a hand held circular saw works. It is the outside edge of the blade that does the cutting. With your blads you need to sharpen the leading inside face of the blade to get the maximum cutting surface. Good luck... and be careful!
Not that it would help but one of the circular blades is on backwards. With practically any regular mower, the problem with really tall grass is that the front edge of the deck pushes the grass / weeds over and before it can spring up and be sucked into the blade, the back Edge of the deck begins traveling over the same grass. The stuff left standing is what was still being pinned down after the blade already passed by.
agreed. if the front lip was cut off about 1 inch above the blade it probably would work much better but you would have to weld a flat strip on tho to add reinforcement back to it for what you cut off for strength tho and by making a open front like a brushhog it should work much better I would think.
agreed. if the front lip was cut off about 1 inch above the blade it probably would work much better but you would have to weld a flat strip on tho to add reinforcement back to it for what you cut off for strength tho and by making a open front like a brushhog it should work much better I would think.
the reason why lawn mower blades are made the way they are is because lawn mowers were not intended to use big circular blades for one the cutting edge on the circular blades are on the wrong side. The circular saw teeth cut wood with the wide edge shaving the wood while mower blades are shaped more like knife blades and that's why they are on mowers.
Hallo Doctor D.S., Dein Video hat mit sehr gefallen. Weil ich aber Hügel habe, habe ich einen 4x4 Rasentraktor. An einigen Stellen kommt er aber trotzdem nicht hin. Zusätzlich habe deshalb einen kleinen RC Raupenmäher (550 mm). Das ist perfekt. Ich habe aber keine so schön aufgeräumte Werkstatt wie Du. Grüße aus einem Ort nahe Berlin / Deutschland. Bin die Nr. 6068.
Fun project, but look at how agricultural mowers cut silage. Long wet grass, effortless and very short with cone blades. Downside is more maintenance, that's where the traditional blades win big - the odd stone doesn't affect cutting too much.
Interesting video! I actually liked how there were NO WORDS spoken, just text and video, that's all you really need for the most part. Some people put on videos about stuff and they like to talk for 10 minutes before they actually get to the gist of the video. Anyway, enough complaining. I think the circular blade idea may still have some merit. I would suggest redesigning the circular blades to to cut out sections inside of the circular area and put sharp cutting edges on them. Sort of like on a sprocket on a bicycle. This would reduce the weight of the blade, give more cutting edges, allow more grass to be drafted up into the top of the deck and get a little "mulching" action, and probablyl just be a better blade. Sometimes it takes trial and error to get a new idea or design to work good. Try that and see how it works, and let us know lol
Open up the front of the deck the width of the blades. This will allow the blades to work better and cutting instead of the deck bending the grass over and not allowing the saw blades to touch it
It is a ‘lawnmower’. Not a slasher. If you want it to cut longer grass, cut the front edge of the deck above the blade height. Only do this as an experiment!
So... knife blades actually use the fan effect to stand grass up as they pass over it. This is one reason you don't cut wet grass. The circulars have no way to make grass stand up... best you could do is cut the front portion of your deck off and sharpen the tips, pretty sure the knives would still do better.
You would be far better off cutting 25mm off of the front shield of the deck it will then not bend the grass over so far and allow a cleaner cut. I’ve already done it so no need to experiment as it works very well here in Australia
It appears that the circular saw blades are so wide that there isn't enough adequate space in the deck for the grass to come into contact with the cutting edges. Also, it would seem logical that the round blades should be level with the bottom of the deck or even a bit lower than that. Another improvement would be to increase the angle that the blades come into contact with the grass, lowering the front of the deck should(in theory anyway) improve the blades ability to make proper contact with the grass and cut it relatively cleanly
Perhaps a combination of a down scaled straight combine harvester type comb mounted on the front of cutting deck (or mounted on the front of tractor) to cut the tall grass AND reattach the usual flat mower blades in cutting deck for the shorter grass??? If the new front attachment works, the secondary standard mower blades might cut the stubble the front attachment creates... I am no engineer but just a thought that could be fun to try.
The problem is, the original blades are pitched, like propellers, to be able to move air. The saw blades don't offer that 'lift', so your side discharge doesn't work at all. That lets the clippings ball up under the saw blades, and because of loading up, don't offer the quality of cut. If there was a way to provide airflow to remove the clippings, the saws would probably work quite well.
Top quality content. Thank you for taking the time to show us. I like how you don't talk in your videos. This is only the second video I have watched from your channel. Maybe you talk in the other vids? Anyways, it's a very unique approach (not talkin) from my perspective. Unique to me, and highly effective. Thanks again.
I think it could work. But you will need to make some changes. The reason being because the blades are in the housing. The grass can’t get up in there for the blades to cut. So you could lower the blades to where they can. It make the teeth on the blade much bigger. Say like the size of a claw on a large bird. About 4 inches in size. You will also have to make air slots in the blades with up tilted wings. So a sort of vacuum effect is made. So it lifts the grass up with suction so it can be cut with the blades.
As noted in the comments you need a vacuum to suck the blades of grass up. If you twist each of the teeth it may work then. However larger & fewer teeth to the blade would also be better. I had a very old large mower when I was young & it just had a square of aluminium with 4 old time hay mower blades bolted on the apex of the corners (hay mower blades are sort of triangular with two cutting edges only about 2mm thick) It cut really well & when it got blunt you just unbolted the tips & flipped them over & had the second cutting edge. They used to be cheap & you bought the blades in a box of ten. The engine was a 5hp side valve Villiers. No automatic pull cord you had to wind it around the pulley each time you tried to start it. I used to spend a fair bit of my mowing time doing that too. However I still have that engine 50yrs later & it probably still runs.
Here in lies the problem, your deck is designed for lawn nothing to do with the blades. Remove the front edge of the deck, probably pay to reinforce the deck as cutting it will weaken it considerably... being the tricky handy fellow you are, make the front edge hinge with some sort of mech linked to a lever so you can adjust between the two "modes" 🤔 One of my mowers has a removable front edge from factory(Cox Lawn Boss)
Ive thought of doing something similar. But what i think would work best is cutting the front of the deck off. Yes it takes the danger factor up, but the deck is folding the grass over, not allowing the blades to cut it. The regular blades would even work better. But this idea is only good for tall grass
the problem with long grass is you need a comb at the front to keep it up until the blade hits, and support it so it doesnt fall over and clog you up. look at a harvester... allen scythe, aka... oscillating hedge trimmer aka... dog trimmer! lots of dogs got stumpified when the allen scythe was a common farm tool...
The shape of the blade sucks the grass up so it can be cut. Your saw blades don't do that and the is so little gap between the deck and the cutting surface that most of the grass doesn't have an opportunity to go up in there.
Great idea, looks badass. Lessen the weight by spikes, I agree; with a literal twist. My thought is less weight, yes; but smokes also catch and build up; could try wide spokes, with twisting the spoke up or down it may throw instead of build up. Also keeping cut height in mind. Maybe cut front wall of mower deck and cut back deck top a few inches to expose the cutting teeth, while grass is standing up as much as it can before it meets the blades. Think like a saw blade attached to a weed wacker instead of string. Think of the string as a thin long regular type mowing blade; and a saw blade is still a saw blade. Teeth must meet standing grass before it can cut it. No different from a table saw, hand held circular saw, or saw mill blade; and the weed wacker with a blade.
More vaccume needed sharper blades i mean if just doing woody grass blades need to spin in reverse having outter angle sharpened but if going through saplings 1 inch diameter stumps etc you just gotta drive slower to allow for it to chip through the blade twist is what applies the vacuum very important and the tip speeds next important along with horsepower and torque to push through i do like the spinning up heavy flywheel part though it'd just hit better from a standstill with stored potential energy to not slow as much when hitting sticks and tree saplings. you're TPI teeth per inch matters too because of time to speed up before hitting next cut gotta maintain rpms possibly gearing pullies higher rpms or higher torques would increase the usability but also your drive forward speed Needs to be adjusted in propper ratio to cut speeds when you hear the difference in rpms slow there's a sweet spot to listen for on each motor or horsepower now if you had a separate smaller motor for drive speed while all usable horsepower was for cutting speed then you'd be able to keep cutting faster. Tip razor blades 🔩 bolted on without the bolt dragging so countersunk would leave a sharp edge but then you'd need your vacuum of blade twist still doing the work to pull up bent grass blades into the blades to do the cut, usually a double pass mow is best cut once on highest setting and then your finish cut on the final height you want to trim down to but i do believe i could design a better mower blade increased efficiency simply designed for grass but I'd still have different design like sharp beater bars for bamboo 🎍 grass because then it's basically needing wood style cut speeds and blade design
The saw blades had no cutting edge. Perhaps if you put a bevel on each, like the standard bevel on a normal blade, you would have better success. Also, the mass of your saw blades is much higher than standard bar blades, requiring much more power to spin. I suggest you cut out most of the center, leaving five or six "spokes" supporting the outer rim and teeth. You might also consider twisting the spokes to provide lift to the grass, allowing for more opportunities to be further chopped up.
You've given me an idea there. Instead of circulars, what about two smaller discs to which you can attach decent lengths of thick nylon thread? Essentially turning it into a big string trimmer. That would fly through tall grass I'll bet.
Of course they didn’t work you didn’t leave enough room for the grass to get in between the deck surround and the blades plus the blades are to heavy drill holes in them to lighten them up and cut them smaller by about 2” inches change the pulley size to spin faster
You can try raising the chute on that lawnmower deck up it will help with grass coming out, you can use an extension cord for that I do it and it helps with the chunks of grass it leaves out to
Its not the blades but the front of the deck pushing the grass over before the blades can cut it. Cut the front of the deck off so it doesn't push the grass over and watch how its cuts, so much better. I cut my my deck and added 3 or 4 links of chain to hang down where the deck was cut off.
As other commenter hinted at, needs to have way for grass to reach the blade without being folded over below the blade level, the front part of the blade guard needs modification
You know, I am so happy, that we have folks like you. Otherwise, we would be lost somewhere in the first century. Just be careful, but keep creating. Awesome video. Thanks by the way, maybe your next experiment should be just one blade, with a counterweight on the opposite side?!!! Or two blades, one following the other one. One would lift grass up and the following cut it.
Isn't anyone going to comment on the sheer stupidity of the way that mower was propped up while working on it? Even as dumb as that was in principle from a safety standpoint it was compounded by the steal head of the hammer resting on that smooth concrete floor! Some people seem to think most anything is a good idea I suppose.
6:30 Time. Old farm boy here. Blades, are necessary for vegetation mowing. Blades, are about only 10 % of the total cutting area, of any mower ; depending on their width. THE OPEN SPACES BETWEEN THE TWO ENDS, allow for the ' growth ' being mowed, to ...um....STAND UP. This allows the taller growth, to be cut. Example : i made an adapter for my Stihl weed trimmer ; out of a deep socket ; welded skill saw blade to it. Attach, and tighten nut on drive. Voila. This method, on a trimmer, works very well. THE THING IS, one must approach the growth, from every angle, of that 360 circle. This principle DOESN'T APPLY TO A TRACTOR, where the cutting blades, are shieled by a shroud ; NOT allowing the growth, to ' stand up ' and be cut. Also, the only way that the growth, is mowed, is FROM ONE DIRECTION ....straight ahead. Your better off, with the conventional blades ; allowing SPACE to let the growth, rise up and be met by the blade. Physics, apparently ; is not taught in schools anymore . AND , it shows, in the modern engineers handbook ; modern plastic junk. USE ONCE, THROW AWAY - buy another one.
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No not Fail! Make more space from end of saw blade to mower deck/guard (smaller saw blade). This will allow the grass to enter in between the deck and the blade. 👍
thinking the same
If the front deck was open then I think it would work fine
So would the regular blade if so
@@paulb7334 not necessary, the solid deck is a federal government mandate ( OSAH or some agency). Some people are not smart enough to keep hands & feet away from high speed spinning blade.
@@hcaveman6954 shut up Kevin. This isn’t for the a commercial market or use.
Like my weed cutter
I would like to see this with an open deck. Should act like a disk mower. My sheep would love that grass
Saw blades have no lift, no air sucking the grass up to be cut. If you made the front of the deck adjustable like the old dixie choppers those saw blades would be mean in brush. Or just cut the front of the deck off so the grass and brush can feed right into the blades
That’s what I was thinking. Take the front deck off and this is a mean brush cutter. Unfortunately doing that to the deck makes it a poor mower. Unless you make some sort oh hinge mechanism so you can put it back on to mow with a proper blade.
One problem I noticed was, you had one saw blade teeth facing one direction and the other blade facing the opposite direction. Both need to be facing the same direction towards the discharge chute.
Also cut some vertical slots in the front leading edge of mower deck to allow taller vegetation in.
3th, get yourself some livestock (cows🐂🐄, sheep🐑, goats 🐐, equine 🐎🦓, that they will gladly eat/graze all that vegetation down. I have not worried about mowing my yard area for decades. 👆😉🙂
Hallo super Idee aber die Sägeblätter müssen kleiner sein , damit das Gras sich unten im Mähgehäuse aufstellen kann. Sonst rutscht das Gras nur über die Sägeblätter drunter durch . Das heißt du brauchst im Mähgehäuse vor den Blättern Luft , damit das Gras da gerade eingezogen werden kann . Oder du verwendest ein Messer das 4 Klingen hat . Jede Klinge steht zur anderen um 90 Grad versetzt ( wie ein Kreuz) . Mfg.
Blades have a kick up that creates lift, pulling the grass up so the blade can hit it. The saw blade has nothing to create lift.
za tako visoku travu preporučam manju brzinu i onda opet drugi put. Ja kosim travu za život i često kosim visoku travu. inače koristim google translate pa se ispričavam na greškama
Yea if the grass is super tall you should raise the deck all the way up down initial cut to knock it down then a clean cut at desired hight
All you really need to do to make this a "better than fail" result is to cut big notches out of the front of your deck so the forward-most section of teeth contact the plant material head on before that front lip of the deck has folded them over 😉
I have done something similar to a 1984 JD 112l I like to play with from time to time and it was incredibly effective.
It might require some welded structural supports after removing sections of the deck, especially if you plan on getting rough with your play.... I drive mine into the woods and cut down trees saplings!
you are forgetting something, or maybe you just don't know. that lifted area right behind the tip of the blade is called the "sail". it has 2 purposes. 1. it helps throw the grass out from under the deck. 2. it acts like a vacuum in that it pulls in air from the edges of the deck which in turn helps stand the grass up so that the blades can cut it. The uplifted area to the inside of the tip, is the mulching area of the blade. it's function is to pull the air(and the grass) down through the blades again, cutting the clippings into smaller pieces and then throw them down onto the freshly cut area.
If you want to mow taller grass, buy a set of "high lift" blades. this type of blade does NOT have a "mulching" area on the blade, but it DOES have a higher "sail" that moves more air to help stand up the grass. Plus, it throws the grass out from under the deck more efficiently . You will have to open the side chute cover on the deck before any of this will work. I hope this info helps you
Due to the engine struggling to turn discs I would recommend removing some of the material from inside the desks to create what would look a bit like a wheel with teeth on the outside of it. This should help reduce weight but also increase the speed at which they can be rotated at. Also It might not be the best lawnmower ever created, but Jesus, it’s the one mower I want in a zombie apocalypse, you can really run over all those crawling zombies
Why you thought that would be a good idea is beyond me mower blades are designed to pull the grass up with air force to also cut the grass circular blades are gonna do nothing
That's exactly what I was getting ready to say. Lol The blades creates a suction that lifts the grass upwards as it cuts it. These so called circular blades, they aren't even designed to cut, there's no teeth on them, so how could they even cut anything! Lmao Now, maybe if he had real saw blades on there with the front part of the mower deck cut off, then it would cut way better than it will like it is now. I don't know what he was thinking! 😂
It would only be good with mowing thick weeds down
That’s exactly what went through my mind
The main problem cutting very tall grass and weeds is the deck gets clogged too easily, slowing down the blades and engine. The solution is to cut away the front of the mower deck so the grass doesn't have to only go out the chute on the side. There is a problem with this though, cut grass will spray out in such force to the front it'll hit the front wheels etc and splatter back towards you and the mower coating everything with green gunk. It's still useful though. I have two decks now. One cut away for doing tall grass, and one unaltered for mowing normal length grass.
The circular blades aren't being used because the Deck of the Mower acts like a shield. If you expose the circular blades they will cut. The Deck pushes the grass over and so does the circular because there isn't enough clearance to let the grass stand again. Cut the Deck of the Mowers edges to expose the spinning blades and I bet it cuts just fine. But beware of what flies.
Try this little trick..... Take 2 sets of regular blades, cross them over like an X on each side and give that a go. The problem with the circular blades is that there is no space between the blades and the deck for the grass to stick up above them to be cut. They are simply mashing the grass down. I have never done the X blade method myself but I have seen videos on here where other people and especially high grass seems to fall victim to them every time..... Good luck!
You need to cut the vertical portion off the front of the deck. Then the blade will hit the grass. Of course it could still get wrapped around the spindles, because those blades won't chop the grass into small pieces like the normal blades. Funny experiment, though!
theres nothing sharp or heavy, just no space grass to come and by cut.
If you open the front of the mower, the saw blades can get to the grass. Open the front of the mower and please try again
Part of the reason the circular sawblades won't work well is because they aren't sharpened. However, more than that - standard mower blades act somewhat like fan blades, which you'll notice they have an angular piece on the back of each side of the blade. These angled pieces make the blades double as propellers, pulling the grass up into the blades while they spin. This is what makes the knives very efficient at finish cutting. For what is trying to be accomplished here, you can try angling the 'teeth' of the sawblades down 10 or so degrees, then sharpen the leading edges. That should accomplish similar results to the knives, but the torque of the engine will limit what they can cut. Additionally, having that many teeth will only be realistically useful for going very fast across very thin foliage. For thick foliage, heavy brush blades that can swivel from their hub and have a blade all the way down the shaft will be far more effective. Brush blades for trimmers use this concept very effectively, some even going as far as serrating the blades.
You made the blades to big to work on a closed deck. You’d have to cut the front open like a brush hog in order for that to work
It would leave grass uncut the size of the saw blades only cutting grass where the edges of the blade hits thats why big uneven patches are being left (alot more passes would be required).regular saw blades rely on the length of the blade not a flat surface..a thinner bar type blade creates an updraft effect
I like it!
Problem though is blades produce air, which aids in lifting and ejecting the grass and these saw blades don't. I still like it!
The mower deck is knocking down the grass, so if you opened up the front of the deck, i bet it would do better.
Yep. I didn’t think that they would work. Even your original blades were not the correct ones for doing what you were trying to do. You need to get high lift blades. The ones that you have are just created for mulching with the discharge chute being closed off so that the grass could re-circulate inside the deck to get more finely cut. The circular blades didn’t work because they had no lift at all. They Just pushed the grass down.
I came to say this as well
Lol...well don't feel too bad. It was an interesting idea anyway.
smarter every day made a video showing how lawnmower blades work, I would recommend checking that out.
another idea is to stack the blades so that they make a cross. I've thought about doing this bit haven't yet. I have a mower I use for blazing trails at our hunting property. I'm often going through heavy grasses. those might help me but I would want to slow the blades down a bit to make the belt last longer and the hubs not blow out
It's because there there is no suction. Blades will create an updraft(like a fan) pulling the grass up rather than just pushing them over. If you put holes in the saws it will create a suction(think of a fan) but then basically you just have blades, more or less.
That's 8 minutes of my life, I won't get back !😢
You'd have to take off the housing of which the blades are it, that way there is room for the grass to actually hit the front/edge of the blades when the blades turn
I think the diameter of the saw blades are so close to edges of the deck that when you drive over tall weeds/grass the holds them down below the blade and the don't get cut. A regular mower blade has all the room on both sides giving the tall grass time to pop up higher than the blade and will get cut. Two ideas, either make the diameter of the two saw blades 3/4 of the current diameter size made or remove the front of the deck exposing both saw blades to the grass to be cut. Bar blades have a wing on them that draws air in pulling the grass upward into the spinning blade and the air is forced out of it's one opening pushing the cut grass out with it.
Exactly what I was coming here to say, well said!
You either need to cut the front of that guard off or get smaller blades you didn't leave enough clearance for the grass to even get up under that deck into the blade
Stick with it and with a few trials and errors you might be onto the next big thing. I suggest cutting holes in the saw blades similar to tire rims. My thinking is that it would create more lift and mulch the grass similar if not better than those X-blades
And, reduce the mass.
I am definately making snow chains for my lawn tractor thanks for the video. I know this is the wrong vid but I just watched the others. Great work.
They have no vacuum too lift the grass....slot the blades in at least four spot bend at angle and sharpen.
What's needed is some fins that will cause a vacuum to draw the vegetation upward.
Cooles Gefährt! Macht bestimmt viel Spaß damit herum zu heizen. 👍
Add a vacuum to grass shoot and you will find excellent performance.
You need to have air flow to suck the grass up into the blade. The lawnmower blade has a air foil that sucks the grass up
I use mulching blades, they lift the grass chop it up. In order for the saw blades to work you would have to drive very slow.
Use a 10 inch carbide blade and the standard mower blades
Try using Flail Mower knives about 6 inches long on a rotating shaft. Weld the knife anchors in a helix around about a 3" diameter hollow shaft and run it at about 1,000 rpm. You'd be amazed how well it will cut 3 feet tall weeds and mulch ot up very fine. I ran a 72 inch Mott flail mower on an old very well worn 1948 8N Ford rowcrop tractor that made 24 hp new and it cut like a championship mower. That Mott had about a 4" roller under it and if I cut 6" or 8" grass it looked fantastic. But even 3' tall weeds cut easily and mulched down.
If you cut the front of the mowing deck off so the blades have better straight-on access to the grass, it MIGHT work a little better.
As long as we're experimenting here,
cut the lead edge off the deck, so the
blade meets standing grass.
The deck is pushing the grass over,
not the blades.
Also, change the oil in your transmission.
It didn't sound too happy.
Other than that, I give your experiment a -10.
This is probably why they don’t sell circular saw blades
at the lawnmower store . LoL 😂
I'm fairly certain the issue is that the blades lift the the grass and cut it. The saw blades don't lift the grass, hence poor performance in tall grass.
If you want those blades to work you have to open up the front of the blade shroud (the mower deck) if they can not get to the grass they can not cut the grass. you would have to remove at least the lower edge of the deck up to the flat surface. I would suggest you add a leading edge bar that rides behind the front wheels to help deflect any objects that might be otherwise hit. Keep in mind how a hand held circular saw works. It is the outside edge of the blade that does the cutting. With your blads you need to sharpen the leading inside face of the blade to get the maximum cutting surface. Good luck... and be careful!
Cut lightening holes in them to make them lighter and will spin faster and easier.
Not that it would help but one of the circular blades is on backwards.
With practically any regular mower, the problem with really tall grass is that the front edge of the deck pushes the grass / weeds over and before it can spring up and be sucked into the blade, the back Edge of the deck begins traveling over the same grass. The stuff left standing is what was still being pinned down after the blade already passed by.
If the front of the deck was cut off the saw blades would work, nice video
agreed. if the front lip was cut off about 1 inch above the blade it probably would work much better but you would have to weld a flat strip on tho to add reinforcement back to it for what you cut off for strength tho and by making a open front like a brushhog it should work much better I would think.
agreed. if the front lip was cut off about 1 inch above the blade it probably would work much better but you would have to weld a flat strip on tho to add reinforcement back to it for what you cut off for strength tho and by making a open front like a brushhog it should work much better I would think.
You screwed up, you have to cut the front of the mower deck open so the grass doesn't get folded down by the mower deck first
the reason why lawn mower blades are made the way they are is because lawn mowers were not intended to use big circular blades for one the cutting edge on the circular blades are on the wrong side. The circular saw teeth cut wood with the wide edge shaving the wood while mower blades are shaped more like knife blades and that's why they are on mowers.
not only that, he didnt even really sharpen it
its even more of a "beat the grass in half" even more than regular blades
The teeth weren’t angled even a little bit. It was a dumb idea but somebody had to try it.
Hallo Doctor D.S.,
Dein Video hat mit sehr gefallen. Weil ich aber Hügel habe, habe ich einen 4x4 Rasentraktor. An einigen Stellen kommt er aber trotzdem nicht hin. Zusätzlich habe deshalb einen kleinen RC Raupenmäher (550 mm). Das ist perfekt.
Ich habe aber keine so schön aufgeräumte Werkstatt wie Du.
Grüße aus einem Ort nahe Berlin / Deutschland. Bin die Nr. 6068.
Fun project, but look at how agricultural mowers cut silage. Long wet grass, effortless and very short with cone blades. Downside is more maintenance, that's where the traditional blades win big - the odd stone doesn't affect cutting too much.
Interesting video! I actually liked how there were NO WORDS spoken, just text and video, that's all you really need for the most part. Some people put on videos about stuff and they like to talk for 10 minutes before they actually get to the gist of the video. Anyway, enough complaining. I think the circular blade idea may still have some merit. I would suggest redesigning the circular blades to to cut out sections inside of the circular area and put sharp cutting edges on them. Sort of like on a sprocket on a bicycle. This would reduce the weight of the blade, give more cutting edges, allow more grass to be drafted up into the top of the deck and get a little "mulching" action, and probablyl just be a better blade. Sometimes it takes trial and error to get a new idea or design to work good. Try that and see how it works, and let us know lol
Yes notch out the front of the deck so the cutting edge will hit the grass.😊
Open up the front of the deck the width of the blades. This will allow the blades to work better and cutting instead of the deck bending the grass over and not allowing the saw blades to touch it
It is a ‘lawnmower’. Not a slasher. If you want it to cut longer grass, cut the front edge of the deck above the blade height. Only do this as an experiment!
So... knife blades actually use the fan effect to stand grass up as they pass over it. This is one reason you don't cut wet grass. The circulars have no way to make grass stand up... best you could do is cut the front portion of your deck off and sharpen the tips, pretty sure the knives would still do better.
You would be far better off cutting 25mm off of the front shield of the deck it will then not bend the grass over so far and allow a cleaner cut. I’ve already done it so no need to experiment as it works very well here in Australia
It appears that the circular saw blades are so wide that there isn't enough adequate space in the deck for the grass to come into contact with the cutting edges. Also, it would seem logical that the round blades should be level with the bottom of the deck or even a bit lower than that. Another improvement would be to increase the angle that the blades come into contact with the grass, lowering the front of the deck should(in theory anyway) improve the blades ability to make proper contact with the grass and cut it relatively cleanly
Perhaps a combination of a down scaled straight combine harvester type comb mounted on the front of cutting deck (or mounted on the front of tractor) to cut the tall grass AND reattach the usual flat mower blades in cutting deck for the shorter grass??? If the new front attachment works, the secondary standard mower blades might cut the stubble the front attachment creates... I am no engineer but just a thought that could be fun to try.
The problem is, the original blades are pitched, like propellers, to be able to move air. The saw blades don't offer that 'lift', so your side discharge doesn't work at all. That lets the clippings ball up under the saw blades, and because of loading up, don't offer the quality of cut. If there was a way to provide airflow to remove the clippings, the saws would probably work quite well.
Top quality content. Thank you for taking the time to show us. I like how you don't talk in your videos. This is only the second video I have watched from your channel. Maybe you talk in the other vids? Anyways, it's a very unique approach (not talkin) from my perspective. Unique to me, and highly effective. Thanks again.
I think it could work. But you will need to make some changes. The reason being because the blades are in the housing. The grass can’t get up in there for the blades to cut. So you could lower the blades to where they can. It make the teeth on the blade much bigger. Say like the size of a claw on a large bird. About 4 inches in size. You will also have to make air slots in the blades with up tilted wings. So a sort of vacuum effect is made. So it lifts the grass up with suction so it can be cut with the blades.
mower blades create a vacuum to pull the grass up then cleave it. ;)
I believe if you cut out the front edge of the mower deck it could get to the grass better. Maybe also less & deeper teeth. Very interesting!
What I came to say! 👍
As noted in the comments you need a vacuum to suck the blades of grass up. If you twist each of the teeth it may work then. However larger & fewer teeth to the blade would also be better. I had a very old large mower when I was young & it just had a square of aluminium with 4 old time hay mower blades bolted on the apex of the corners (hay mower blades are sort of triangular with two cutting edges only about 2mm thick) It cut really well & when it got blunt you just unbolted the tips & flipped them over & had the second cutting edge. They used to be cheap & you bought the blades in a box of ten. The engine was a 5hp side valve Villiers. No automatic pull cord you had to wind it around the pulley each time you tried to start it. I used to spend a fair bit of my mowing time doing that too. However I still have that engine 50yrs later & it probably still runs.
Here in lies the problem, your deck is designed for lawn nothing to do with the blades.
Remove the front edge of the deck, probably pay to reinforce the deck as cutting it will weaken it considerably... being the tricky handy fellow you are, make the front edge hinge with some sort of mech linked to a lever so you can adjust between the two "modes" 🤔
One of my mowers has a removable front edge from factory(Cox Lawn Boss)
Yes, that's what I wrote in the video, so that then the circulars would probably work perfectly...
Ive thought of doing something similar. But what i think would work best is cutting the front of the deck off. Yes it takes the danger factor up, but the deck is folding the grass over, not allowing the blades to cut it. The regular blades would even work better. But this idea is only good for tall grass
I liked that you tried even if it didn't work it was badass.
the problem with long grass is you need a comb at the front to keep it up until the blade hits, and support it so it doesnt fall over and clog you up.
look at a harvester...
allen scythe, aka... oscillating hedge trimmer aka... dog trimmer! lots of dogs got stumpified when the allen scythe was a common farm tool...
We need to come up with a front mower for tall grass. The idea with fire discs👌👍
The shape of the blade sucks the grass up so it can be cut.
Your saw blades don't do that and the is so little gap between the deck and the cutting surface that most of the grass doesn't have an opportunity to go up in there.
Great idea, looks badass. Lessen the weight by spikes, I agree; with a literal twist. My thought is less weight, yes; but smokes also catch and build up; could try wide spokes, with twisting the spoke up or down it may throw instead of build up. Also keeping cut height in mind. Maybe cut front wall of mower deck and cut back deck top a few inches to expose the cutting teeth, while grass is standing up as much as it can before it meets the blades. Think like a saw blade attached to a weed wacker instead of string. Think of the string as a thin long regular type mowing blade; and a saw blade is still a saw blade. Teeth must meet standing grass before it can cut it. No different from a table saw, hand held circular saw, or saw mill blade; and the weed wacker with a blade.
Hey man, this is just the beginning of new ideas. Without failures, there are no successes. You are on the right path to discovering something good.
I would be so afraid to engage the blades with those things on it 😂
you should totally try chains kinda like the brush cutter chain but modified for your ride on and in as safer way as possible
More vaccume needed sharper blades i mean if just doing woody grass blades need to spin in reverse having outter angle sharpened but if going through saplings 1 inch diameter stumps etc you just gotta drive slower to allow for it to chip through the blade twist is what applies the vacuum very important and the tip speeds next important along with horsepower and torque to push through i do like the spinning up heavy flywheel part though it'd just hit better from a standstill with stored potential energy to not slow as much when hitting sticks and tree saplings. you're TPI teeth per inch matters too because of time to speed up before hitting next cut gotta maintain rpms possibly gearing pullies higher rpms or higher torques would increase the usability but also your drive forward speed Needs to be adjusted in propper ratio to cut speeds when you hear the difference in rpms slow there's a sweet spot to listen for on each motor or horsepower now if you had a separate smaller motor for drive speed while all usable horsepower was for cutting speed then you'd be able to keep cutting faster. Tip razor blades 🔩 bolted on without the bolt dragging so countersunk would leave a sharp edge but then you'd need your vacuum of blade twist still doing the work to pull up bent grass blades into the blades to do the cut, usually a double pass mow is best cut once on highest setting and then your finish cut on the final height you want to trim down to but i do believe i could design a better mower blade increased efficiency simply designed for grass but I'd still have different design like sharp beater bars for bamboo 🎍 grass because then it's basically needing wood style cut speeds and blade design
The saw blades had no cutting edge. Perhaps if you put a bevel on each, like the standard bevel on a normal blade, you would have better success. Also, the mass of your saw blades is much higher than standard bar blades, requiring much more power to spin. I suggest you cut out most of the center, leaving five or six "spokes" supporting the outer rim and teeth. You might also consider twisting the spokes to provide lift to the grass, allowing for more opportunities to be further chopped up.
You've given me an idea there. Instead of circulars, what about two smaller discs to which you can attach decent lengths of thick nylon thread? Essentially turning it into a big string trimmer. That would fly through tall grass I'll bet.
Veliki precnik testere. Mora manja da bi uhvatila testera, ovako dok se trava podigne, padne na ravan deo i tu nema secenja. Pozdrav
Da, slažem se !
Make the blades smaller doesn't allow room for grass to stand up to cut properly. Cool idea.
Of course they didn’t work you didn’t leave enough room for the grass to get in between the deck surround and the blades plus the blades are to heavy drill holes in them to lighten them up and cut them smaller by about 2” inches change the pulley size to spin faster
You can try raising the chute on that lawnmower deck up it will help with grass coming out, you can use an extension cord for that I do it and it helps with the chunks of grass it leaves out to
Should have cut out the front of the mower deck it wouldn't lay the
Grass down before hitting the blades.
If you cut the front of the deck open it would probably have done better.
The circular sow works if you you remove the obstacle in front of the cutting blade.
You just ned to cut the deking in front of the blads.
The standard mower blades are designed to create "lift" when revolving..your circular blades do not...
Kako si i svaka ti čast
Its not the blades but the front of the deck pushing the grass over before the blades can cut it. Cut the front of the deck off so it doesn't push the grass over and watch how its cuts, so much better. I cut my my deck and added 3 or 4 links of chain to hang down where the deck was cut off.
As other commenter hinted at, needs to have way for grass to reach the blade without being folded over below the blade level, the front part of the blade guard needs modification
the blades does two things, it's angled like a fan to suck the grass upwards, then it cuts it.
Imagine the mower tractor with a chimney instead of its original exhaust 🙈😂😂😂
There are gophers and ground
hogs asking if Caligula was reincarnated.
You know, I am so happy, that we have folks like you. Otherwise, we would be lost somewhere in the first century. Just be careful, but keep creating. Awesome video. Thanks
by the way, maybe your next experiment should be just one blade, with a counterweight on the opposite side?!!! Or two blades, one following the other one. One would lift grass up and the following cut it.
Isn't anyone going to comment on the sheer stupidity of the way that mower was propped up while working on it? Even as dumb as that was in principle from a safety standpoint it was compounded by the steal head of the hammer resting on that smooth concrete floor! Some people seem to think most anything is a good idea I suppose.
If you cant understand why its not cutting, please dont touch any saws or mowers.
Try making smaller saw blades! An sharpen them it might do better
6:30 Time. Old farm boy here. Blades, are necessary for vegetation mowing. Blades, are about only 10 % of the total cutting area, of any mower ; depending on their width. THE OPEN SPACES BETWEEN THE TWO ENDS, allow for the ' growth ' being mowed, to ...um....STAND UP. This allows the taller growth, to be cut. Example : i made an adapter for my Stihl weed trimmer ; out of a deep socket ; welded skill saw blade to it. Attach, and tighten nut on drive. Voila. This method, on a trimmer, works very well. THE THING IS, one must approach the growth, from every angle, of that 360 circle. This principle DOESN'T APPLY TO A TRACTOR, where the cutting blades, are shieled by a shroud ; NOT allowing the growth, to ' stand up ' and be cut. Also, the only way that the growth, is mowed, is FROM ONE DIRECTION ....straight ahead. Your better off, with the conventional blades ; allowing SPACE to let the growth, rise up and be met by the blade. Physics, apparently ; is not taught in schools anymore . AND , it shows, in the modern engineers handbook ; modern plastic junk. USE ONCE, THROW AWAY - buy another one.
the mower deck was folding over the grass so its not cutting it. i use saw blades on my weed wacker and it goes through tall weeds like nothing else.
I thought he was going to go mow over some small trees😅
@@rm3141593 now that would be a cool test to see.
Loved it!! Looked like a great idea- at least you found out!!
I have the original blades off my 1979 cub cadet and they work great when sharpened. They can last a long time without needing new ones…