Well explained. I'm embarrassed to say that only last year did I realize the Toyota parking brake adjustment hole needs to line up with that notch in the hub. If the last guy to put the rotor on didn't do that, and if you can't get the rotor off because the parking brake shoes are hanging on the rust rim, there is no easy way to relax the parking brake shoes. Most things in a vehicle are designed to never go on wrong, but with these Toyota rotors there are four ways to do it wrong and only one way to do it right.
You know how I found out about that hole years ago? You quest it I put one on wrong and what a pain it the coconuts it was getting it back off. Needless to say I never made that mistake again. Thanks for stopping by Dave.
Hello Jim. If the rotor is stuck, instead of using the bolt to press the rotor off, can you also adjust the parking brake shoes by backing off the adjuster wheel to facilitate rotor removal?
2008- 2013. Also if you only plan to replace pads/shims you do not have to remove both bolts that attach caliper to sliders pins. One lower bolt is enough and then rotate caliper to free brake pads
Help with my '05 Ranger 4.0 I always let it idle for 1.5 or so minutes. I backed out of the garage and the engine shutdown. It would not start but would crank and the "check eng." light went out. Got it back into the garage. Fuel good. fuel pump won't run. The relay clicked good and resistance normal. 12V at the socket. I checked all the fuses and relays, they ae good. Fuse is good. Power good at the "run/start" position. I don't know where to hookup the pressure gage so I don't know about that. I interduce propane into the intake ducted and it wouldn't even try to start. I clamped my timing light to each plug lead and got a good flash. I wanted to check for power in the pump wiring but couldn't locate the wire. It should have tried to start with the propane. That is where I am at. I would apricate any help you cane offer.
REAR: Bracket: 58 ft-lbs Slide pins: 32 ft-lbs FRONT: Bracket: 79 ft-lbs Slide pins: 25 ft-lbs Also, the Highlander slide pin has a square head, which requires a 19mm (or 3/4") open end wrench to keep it from spinning as you torque the bolt.
Well explained. I'm embarrassed to say that only last year did I realize the Toyota parking brake adjustment hole needs to line up with that notch in the hub. If the last guy to put the rotor on didn't do that, and if you can't get the rotor off because the parking brake shoes are hanging on the rust rim, there is no easy way to relax the parking brake shoes. Most things in a vehicle are designed to never go on wrong, but with these Toyota rotors there are four ways to do it wrong and only one way to do it right.
You know how I found out about that hole years ago? You quest it I put one on wrong and what a pain it the coconuts it was getting it back off. Needless to say I never made that mistake again. Thanks for stopping by Dave.
Perfect video... Thank you ! So easy to follow, the job went well and quickly...
Thanks Mr Jim for teaching us:) and you have a bright clear video, nice cam:)
You are very welcome
Awsome work is so easy to understand y'all sooo clear thanks blessings love ur accent
Awesome! Thank you!
Great job Jim. Happy New Year sir! Bless you and yours brother!!
Thank you for this video, you help me change my brake pads
Good job Jim well explained thumbs up shared HAPPY NEW YEAR
Thanks for stopping by Drew. Happy new year!
Explained very well all detail .. Thanks million
Thank you for sharing, happy new year too.
Happy new year!
Where’d you get that slick little caliper piston compression tool?
Hello Jim. If the rotor is stuck, instead of using the bolt to press the rotor off, can you also adjust the parking brake shoes by backing off the adjuster wheel to facilitate rotor removal?
Yes you can if that is the only thing holding it.Thanks for watching.
0:35 "snap these loose like that"
Rust: Lol
Thanks Jim for the useful video. is that bolt M8-1.25 to pull of the rotor?
Yes you are correct
2008- 2013. Also if you only plan to replace pads/shims you do not have to remove both bolts that attach caliper to sliders pins. One lower bolt is enough and then rotate caliper to free brake pads
Help with my '05 Ranger 4.0
I always let it idle for 1.5 or so minutes. I backed out of the garage and the engine shutdown. It would not start but would crank and the "check eng." light went out. Got it back into the garage.
Fuel good. fuel pump won't run. The relay clicked good and resistance normal. 12V at the socket. I checked all the fuses and relays, they ae good.
Fuse is good. Power good at the "run/start" position. I don't know where to hookup the pressure gage so I don't know about that.
I interduce propane into the intake ducted and it wouldn't even try to start. I clamped my timing light to each plug lead and got a good flash. I wanted to check for power in the pump wiring but couldn't locate the wire. It should have tried to start with the propane.
That is where I am at. I would apricate any help you cane offer.
That job applies to the same model years of rav4 also. They look very much to be the same design rear brakes.
Thanks for your input and for watching.
Very Good Video. Thank You Sir
Jim, I think you could do a brake job blindfolded. Very well done video. Do you like Akebono brakes ? Happy New Year! Thanks, John
Absolutely I am positive . I can not even imagine how may brake jobs I did over the 40+years of working on cars.Thanks for watching.
Excellent video!
Good information as always.
Thanks for watching
Hi Jim, what is the lubricant brand you use for the slide pins?
Here is the link to the lube I use it is made by CRC.amzn.to/3LS2Hj1
Hi Jim, can you tell us where your shop is located for those viewers who need an honest mechanic? Thanks!
Yes my shop is in New Jersey .Thanks for watching.
Jimthecarguy where in New Jersey are you located? I am also from New Jersey.
Didn’t explain the crucial part of tightening bolts to spec torque in the end.
REAR:
Bracket: 58 ft-lbs
Slide pins: 32 ft-lbs
FRONT:
Bracket: 79 ft-lbs
Slide pins: 25 ft-lbs
Also, the Highlander slide pin has a square head, which requires a 19mm (or 3/4") open end wrench to keep it from spinning as you torque the bolt.