Now that's a great idea. I am having a metal building with two 10x10 doors and as you mentioned, I'd have to have some extensions but this is an economical way to gain automatic door lifters. Nicely done and I truly appreciate the video. 👍🏽🤠 8/20/23
SO glad I found this. Did this on my moms garage, she has 2 9x8 doors but the Genie 1.25 would not lift both doors together. I ended up having to do an opener on each door and it works fine. Instead of using the lumber we used a 3/4" pipe with off set brackets. I think it wouldn't do both doors for me is because there is about a 2' gap in between the 2 doors. I think all in for both openers and all everything else we are about $550-$600 which is still cheaper than the wall mounted openers for the roll up doors. Thanks again!
Yes this does work, but from a commercial door professional, please be sure to properly maintenance your door. With both doors being joined at the bottom, if one doesn’t operate correctly, it will ruin the other. Proper guide spacing, lubrication and proper tension adjustment is key. If a spring ever breaks, that door is going to balloon and the curtain will shear off the barrel and come crashing down. Again yes it does work and it a very good hack, just be mindful of proper maintenance to prevent and damages or injuries!!! Overall great job!!! 👏🏼
i have the same type doors. I had to add tension to my doors. I also had to fab a bracket for the motor to mount. I have 12 ft walls so my support beams are different heights. Been a lot of trial and error. Almost there.
100% agree. I originally planned on a metal plate/bar but couldn’t justify the price as the outcome was the same. If you’re in an environment where clients/customers may view then yes, I would opt for metal. For me, no one is in my garage except for my wife and myself. Thanks for viewing!
I have a similar setup, but I cheaped out on the bar. It is too small and not rigidly connected. It worked great for about a year than the bar got deformed and is now getting jammed at times. This video was helpful in seeing the benefit of a more rigid solution.
Very cool. If you want to know that it's not harming the motor, put an amp probe on the motor wire, read the amps during its opening and closing, and compare the reading to the rated motor amps on the tag-hopefully, it's at or under the rated amps or at least not much higher. I think I will try this on mine when the building is finished.
It would be interesting to know for general information but so far in 7-8 months with temps varying from 25f to 105f and humidity from 0-100% there has been no change. I’m happy with this $180 motor. I see no reason why this won’t last years to come.
There is a locknut on the spring, use it as a guide. For every foot(330mm) of the door, tention it one full rotation. 10 foot 10 rotations. Door must lift easy with 2 fingers, open until 4 feet(1.2m), if it stay its ok. If if move up release, if dropping tention. Use a pull scale,(luggage scale) to ensure tention on both doors are the same. Doors must be aligned and tracks clean, operation easy when operating manual. Great idea and excelent video. Dont think it is necesary to cut the bar.
Hiya mate, great idea, is this opener belt driven, it looks to be, would you think this motor could handle 100kgs in weight, I'm wanting to make an indoor lift, this seems to be the way to go, yes engineered correctly it could work, maybe ; }
Thanks, this is neat. I've been looking at the units that are made for the roll-up doors, but the door that I have will be super difficult;t to impossible to use them on, and this will definitely work - I think. Smart thinking here by you.
When closed, does it push the door down and get rid of the gap under the door any? I can't get my roll up doors adjusted in a way that will close the gap at the bottom
Interesting. I have an old opener like this. Any thoughts to using heavy duty barrel latches on each door. Cut 2x into three pieces, latch is mounted on door 2x and the two latch receivers are mounted on short 2x that’s attached to opener.
I think I get what you’re saying and it could possibly work. The doors if tensioned correctly truly need very little energy to go up and down. I’ve seen others use very short metal rods (2’ long on an 8’ wide door) and it still worked. I wanted my 2x4 wood very long to prevent binding this why I went roughly half way across each door. Your way could very well work. I’m still using this set up multiple tours daily since the day I installed.
@@TheMopar97 thinking some more about it, another alternative would be If there’s a primary door, leave the center and primary door 2x as one piece, secondary door would have the barrel latch. Sounds like the long 2x is working great for your needs. Thanks for sharing.
Did this for only one side, also using a genie like yours, but using pipe and rail brackets (pipe slides right in). Got it exactly centered and plumb. Problem is because it pulls up, with greatest pressure on one side (since installed in center), it lifts that side a bit higher so that no matter what you do it rolls up unevenly. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. Worried it would break the door so I have to figure a solution or take it out. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. spent 3 days on it already. Any ideas?
Always go sectional doors instead of roll up doors if you can. It's much better and lasts longer. Can also be repaired if spring breaks or section gets hit.
@@andrewhuang682 sectional doors limit working height. With these I can keep open and put my pontoon in half way and work on it (lift motor off). Sectional doors wouldn’t allow me. If you’re using it just for a garage then sure. But I also do a ton of work in this shop.
Yeah I made this mistake. Wish I had sectional doors because they seal up much better. These roll up doors let bugs and mice in through the corrugations 😢
Name your price!! Every garage door company has told me I cant put an electric opener on my door on my metal building. I am in E. Tn. Please come and install one for me.
Just spent 3 days and about 450$ trying to do this. Bought metal and a welding machine to make a custom brackets etc. Instead of it working the bottom of the doors twist at various positions. While it seems cool after doing ot on mine I would not recommend trying this. You could easily wind up putting it all in just to be taking it all out. I get 7 days off ever 3 month and this not only wasted my money but 3 out of 7 days off. Roll up doors are not made for this.
I did the same method as the video as a temporary solution for my door. Though I didn't like it, it worked just fine. I have since built a mechanism so that the motor turns the drum in the same way the chain pulley used to. I am super pleased with this iteration.
Now that's a great idea. I am having a metal building with two 10x10 doors and as you mentioned, I'd have to have some extensions but this is an economical way to gain automatic door lifters. Nicely done and I truly appreciate the video. 👍🏽🤠 8/20/23
SO glad I found this. Did this on my moms garage, she has 2 9x8 doors but the Genie 1.25 would not lift both doors together. I ended up having to do an opener on each door and it works fine. Instead of using the lumber we used a 3/4" pipe with off set brackets. I think it wouldn't do both doors for me is because there is about a 2' gap in between the 2 doors. I think all in for both openers and all everything else we are about $550-$600 which is still cheaper than the wall mounted openers for the roll up doors. Thanks again!
Excellent alternative. Sold me on this option, thank you for getting straight to the point 👍!
Just ordered this! Cheaper and less frabricating than the vevor garage openers need so thank you!!
I have done this on my garage role up doors and it works great.
Awesome job thanks for showing your setup.
Yes this does work, but from a commercial door professional, please be sure to properly maintenance your door. With both doors being joined at the bottom, if one doesn’t operate correctly, it will ruin the other. Proper guide spacing, lubrication and proper tension adjustment is key. If a spring ever breaks, that door is going to balloon and the curtain will shear off the barrel and come crashing down. Again yes it does work and it a very good hack, just be mindful of proper maintenance to prevent and damages or injuries!!! Overall great job!!! 👏🏼
In my country this setup is sold as a kit with a round tubing thatbgies through etc but good work.
i have the same type doors. I had to add tension to my doors. I also had to fab a bracket for the motor to mount. I have 12 ft walls so my support beams are different heights. Been a lot of trial and error. Almost there.
Great idea. Opting for a steel or aluminum bar vs the 2x4 would make it look professional. Thanks for sharing.
100% agree. I originally planned on a metal plate/bar but couldn’t justify the price as the outcome was the same. If you’re in an environment where clients/customers may view then yes, I would opt for metal. For me, no one is in my garage except for my wife and myself.
Thanks for viewing!
I have a similar setup, but I cheaped out on the bar. It is too small and not rigidly connected. It worked great for about a year than the bar got deformed and is now getting jammed at times. This video was helpful in seeing the benefit of a more rigid solution.
Very cool. If you want to know that it's not harming the motor, put an amp probe on the motor wire, read the amps during its opening and closing, and compare the reading to the rated motor amps on the tag-hopefully, it's at or under the rated amps or at least not much higher. I think I will try this on mine when the building is finished.
It would be interesting to know for general information but so far in 7-8 months with temps varying from 25f to 105f and humidity from 0-100% there has been no change. I’m happy with this $180 motor. I see no reason why this won’t last years to come.
Genius. Love it.
When you screwed the 2x4 to the door, did you just have screws sticking out through the door on the other side?
Yes, but fasten it the way you want
Absolutely perfect!
GOOD !! Love ,engineering design process
Any advice on adjusting the tension on the garage doors? The opener struggles/stops while lifting when fully closed...
There is a locknut on the spring, use it as a guide. For every foot(330mm) of the door, tention it one full rotation. 10 foot 10 rotations. Door must lift easy with 2 fingers, open until 4 feet(1.2m), if it stay its ok. If if move up release, if dropping tention. Use a pull scale,(luggage scale) to ensure tention on both doors are the same. Doors must be aligned and tracks clean, operation easy when operating manual. Great idea and excelent video. Dont think it is necesary to cut the bar.
Said open 1.2 meter for tention checking, should b be halfway
Hiya mate, great idea, is this opener belt driven, it looks to be, would you think this motor could handle 100kgs in weight, I'm wanting to make an indoor lift, this seems to be the way to go, yes engineered correctly it could work, maybe ; }
That is so cool.
Thanks, this is neat. I've been looking at the units that are made for the roll-up doors, but the door that I have will be super difficult;t to impossible to use them on, and this will definitely work - I think. Smart thinking here by you.
Or could you please send me a parts list with sizes of hardware and such. And a link to the instruction on releasing the tension?
Great video looking for something just like this my question would be would it work fine on just one door mine is a 10 by 10 door
Very nicely done!
Could you please send me step by step instructions of how you did this? I just got a building and wanna do this asap.
When closed, does it push the door down and get rid of the gap under the door any? I can't get my roll up doors adjusted in a way that will close the gap at the bottom
@@aaroncourtney990 it can if you program it to push all the way down.
Interesting. I have an old opener like this. Any thoughts to using heavy duty barrel latches on each door. Cut 2x into three pieces, latch is mounted on door 2x and the two latch receivers are mounted on short 2x that’s attached to opener.
I think I get what you’re saying and it could possibly work. The doors if tensioned correctly truly need very little energy to go up and down. I’ve seen others use very short metal rods (2’ long on an 8’ wide door) and it still worked. I wanted my 2x4 wood very long to prevent binding this why I went roughly half way across each door.
Your way could very well work. I’m still using this set up multiple tours daily since the day I installed.
@@TheMopar97 thinking some more about it, another alternative would be If there’s a primary door, leave the center and primary door 2x as one piece, secondary door would have the barrel latch. Sounds like the long 2x is working great for your needs. Thanks for sharing.
Did this for only one side, also using a genie like yours, but using pipe and rail brackets (pipe slides right in). Got it exactly centered and plumb. Problem is because it pulls up, with greatest pressure on one side (since installed in center), it lifts that side a bit higher so that no matter what you do it rolls up unevenly. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. Worried it would break the door so I have to figure a solution or take it out. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. spent 3 days on it already. Any ideas?
You’ll have to find a way to remove the flex (or at least 90%+ ). Keep searching and thinking!
If you add tension to the spring on the opposite side that's being pulled you'll fix the unevenness issue
Very cool idea
Brilliant!
Always go sectional doors instead of roll up doors if you can. It's much better and lasts longer. Can also be repaired if spring breaks or section gets hit.
@@andrewhuang682 sectional doors limit working height. With these I can keep open and put my pontoon in half way and work on it (lift motor off). Sectional doors wouldn’t allow me. If you’re using it just for a garage then sure. But I also do a ton of work in this shop.
Yeah I made this mistake. Wish I had sectional doors because they seal up much better. These roll up doors let bugs and mice in through the corrugations 😢
Freakin brilliant ! ! !
I just tried a Genie Screw Drive Max Force 2 H.P. for 2-10' doors. It only raised it 6', then I heard the screw slip. I out of ideas.
Genius!!! How you like your building from them? Waiting in mine now.
Building is great. They put it together in one day. 26x34x10. Peaks 13’ in the center. I spent the extra for 12g metal to have their 20 year warranty
Does the safety reversal system work??
Yes. Sensors are mounted like normal and function fine
Thanks for sharing
How did u by pass the elec eyes
I didn’t. They are there working as they should
When you installed the opener did you need adjust the tension on either of the two roll up doors?
Yes. Both of mine were way too tight
Name your price!! Every garage door company has told me I cant put an electric opener on my door on my metal building. I am in E. Tn. Please come and install one for me.
what type of door do you have?
Metal building like yours. Carolina car ports. Roll up door, looks similar to yours. I am near Knoxville.@@drewlinton3472
But the roll up openers are 90 to 130 a piece.
More!!!!
How can u say more, I just bought one for 90.00
@@CHEECHMUN
Just spent 3 days and about 450$ trying to do this. Bought metal and a welding machine to make a custom brackets etc. Instead of it working the bottom of the doors twist at various positions. While it seems cool after doing ot on mine I would not recommend trying this. You could easily wind up putting it all in just to be taking it all out. I get 7 days off ever 3 month and this not only wasted my money but 3 out of 7 days off. Roll up doors are not made for this.
You literally did what I wrote NOT to do. You over thought and OVER engineered it.
I did the same method as the video as a temporary solution for my door. Though I didn't like it, it worked just fine. I have since built a mechanism so that the motor turns the drum in the same way the chain pulley used to. I am super pleased with this iteration.
Really
Vevor motor cost $129
133 as a member. May 22, 2024. That's only one motor!