For a standard AEG like a rental gun, the degree doesn't matter that much (if at all). Where the degree matters more, is for high speed DSG builds and snipers. When using a lighter bb at lower fps, a softer bucking is preferred because the bb can deform the nub and make better contact. When using heavier bbs, they hit the bucking harder, so a higher degree of bucking is preferred to prevent bad accuracy and eventual tearing. (FPS also plays a big role when using a tougher bucking) High speed DSGs will use a tougher bucking because it doesn't deform much when pounded by 60 bbs per second. Thus not tearing or not hopping the bb properly. For snipers, they shoot over 350fps with a very heavy bb. So having a much higher degree is paramount in getting a good hop at 250ft. The harder bucking can hold up and not deform too much when hit by the bb. For those cases ,degree maters. For a normal AEG (like a rental), the contact patch maters more than the degree.
You are somewhat wrong. This in theory, but in actual real life it's that at all. To put backspin on the BB, you want as much grip as you can get off the contact patch. A softer degree bucking will always give a better backspin compared to a higher degree. I have used 50 degree autobot buckings in many VSR-10, MK23 and DMR builds and you would be surprised how long it would last. I usually use 60 degree Macarons in AEGs shooting 1.5-1.8 Joules and it never fails me combined with a ZCI barrel and omega nub. Tuning the gun itself is far more important than just the bucking hardness. Remember, buckings are consumables as much as AEG o-rings are. Yes, softer buckings will wear faster compared to a 70-80 degree but i'd prefer better accuracy than bucking longevity.
Personally, i like soft bucking more because it create better air seal compared to harder bucking. It is also cheaper. And I also find that harder bucking tends to become brittle faster than softer one. Especially when stored at long time
@VegaStryke Sorry, but he is very much correct. Some aspects of what you said also can factor into how things work. But as a whole, the heavier bb and faster bb builds will have far better accuracy and longevity if all is built correct with a harder bucking. Where some of your comments become accurate depends more on ambient temperatures. If the temperatures are colder heavier bb and faster bb builds do better with a softer bucking because of the cold temperatures stiffening the bucking. Yes depending on if you play indoors, outdoors, and/or your velocities are higher versus lower can all be a factor as to which will work better. In the end if you do not care about the longevity of your bucking then yea go ahead and stick with a soft one. Just remember that you maybe more tech savvy and have no issues opening up your gun to replace the bucking, but I would say there is a larger group that are not savvy enough as I see their guns in my workshop for even easier issues.
This is channel is one and only tells u the truth and by giving you advice which parts is works fine without buying a whole damn upgrades for nothing just for the looks sometimes or people seeing you invest a good amount of money for good upgrades I don’t care what people says about this but whatever been said I loved to watch all he’s videos and I do appreciate he’s time and effort to do the video and explain each details not some of yall very insecure and DEMANDING so shut up and just appreciate and thankful to this man period
Want to add, higher degree bucking is better for more precision on higher powered systems you will see lack luster results on a low power or stock system. For measurable effect: Bucking = reach out distance, barrel diameter = more accuracy. My DMRs are 2.10 - 3.0J, 450-550FPS minimum engagement distance 100 - 150 feet depending on feild. In the same control i can hit 2-4 inch grouping at 100 feet, 8-10 inch at 200, 12-20 inches at 300 (with rifle zerod in sled). If I change to stock bucking these numbers will change drastically. If anyone is interested I will create a video showing stock bucking, then 50-80 degree buckings. Each bucking would be used in a tournament ready HPA DMR with .32 BBs. I would shoot 300-400-500-600fps through the buckings each at a engagement distance of 100, 200, then 300 feet with same hopup position. (Control for FPS would be changing HPA DMRs pressure, then matching same pressure for each buckings FPS tests, and for compliance would chrono each bucking before testing to ensure FPS is ball park +/- 15) Ive done this test before just not in a video format. The results then were harder bucking allowed higher FPS system to reach out further. The lower FPS saw increased range at softer buckings, but decreased range as the hardness climbed. Meaning, if FPS is the same the 50 degree bucking and 70 degree bucking will make a large difference at longer engagement distances with 70 allowing better range with high FPS system.
Hey it me again in taiwan gun there is a combo FLAT HOP UP BUCKING 55-60° [MODIFY] or is it better to buy maple leaf 60 and the DELAYER OMEGA [MAPLE LEAF]
a harder rubber requires more pressure. This causes more repeatable insertion of BB's into the chamber. BB's are shot into the chamber through the nozzle, tappet plate and its spring. A hard rubber also reduces power, so it will not be suitable for every set. Especially when we are talking about 1-1.5J.
I’m using .49 gram in my fully built Tac 41 at 501 fps I found that the 75 degree is the better one to go with because the grouping of each shot is a lot smaller and when all you see is someone’s head you want be able to hit that 6 in target compared to the 2ft width of someone’s body.
So if that’s not a degree called why in the hell all companies they called every damn hop up bucking called 80/60/50/70 degrees and what’s matter your tying to correct this man I’ve been playing airsoft and build so many rips aeg/gbb and looks like your trying to push you silliness so what do u called if its not degrees?
@@Gbrmkrs In this context the question of "degree" was in relation to temperature. The duro is referred to as degrees yes, but it doesn't mean temperature. You're getting angry for no reason. There's no silliness here.
doesnt seem very accurate, a .20 at 100 feet dropping like that seems to say you dont have the hop dialed in, not sure what was proven here aside from heavier bbs tend to hold their accuracy more.
thank you, although it would have been cool to see say .26 bbs vs 32's to have a better idea of how much accuracy returns you get with different weights
outdoors you would kinda want the highest that your gun can hop but indoors for cqb just stay for .2g or maybe even .16g considering you get more velocity. (in my VSR i use .46g and if i could get here even heavier i would go for it. Problem is just thats the highest i can purchase) Note: The difference is especially big at higher ranges and guns with more fps and higher hop capabilities get more range at heavier bbs.
The shot trajectory is hilariously wrong. Neither of the shots were done with proper hop up use. The proper trajectory shoud look like this: straight line, slight climb up, slight straight line, quick fall down. Overhopped looks like this: immediate climb at parabolic trajectory, slight straight line, quick fall down. Underhopped: straight line, gradual falling down. In the video, clearly all shots are underhopped.
This was helpful to some degree. But 100 ft is not the test I wanted to see. I wanted to see 200 ft 300 ft 400 ft etc. And how you adjusted the hop up on it. Accuracy is great distance is great also I won't both
Can you please remake this with atleast .30 it's the average outdoor user weight if not .32 for the serious person. We use .30 at 330 to 350 fps 420 fps with a .20
It’s the degree of hardness. The softer the bucking, the more hop. Gotta find the sweet spot between hop and durability. Or maybe it’s the temperature the bucking’s going to melt 😆
You under hopped the snot out of those tests.
Thank you for this video. I'm dipping my toes into upgrading my airsoft gun for the first time and this was a huge help in understanding the bucking
This was a great start to doing some measurable tests. I really appreciate that as there don’t seem, like you said, to be any real statistical data
Appreciate the time spent to create this video!
Good info, thanks for the time you took on this!
For a standard AEG like a rental gun, the degree doesn't matter that much (if at all). Where the degree matters more, is for high speed DSG builds and snipers. When using a lighter bb at lower fps, a softer bucking is preferred because the bb can deform the nub and make better contact. When using heavier bbs, they hit the bucking harder, so a higher degree of bucking is preferred to prevent bad accuracy and eventual tearing. (FPS also plays a big role when using a tougher bucking) High speed DSGs will use a tougher bucking because it doesn't deform much when pounded by 60 bbs per second. Thus not tearing or not hopping the bb properly. For snipers, they shoot over 350fps with a very heavy bb. So having a much higher degree is paramount in getting a good hop at 250ft. The harder bucking can hold up and not deform too much when hit by the bb. For those cases ,degree maters. For a normal AEG (like a rental), the contact patch maters more than the degree.
I use a 75 degree bucking in my fully built Tac 41 and it’s a lot better than the stock bucking which is 60 degrees
You are somewhat wrong. This in theory, but in actual real life it's that at all. To put backspin on the BB, you want as much grip as you can get off the contact patch. A softer degree bucking will always give a better backspin compared to a higher degree. I have used 50 degree autobot buckings in many VSR-10, MK23 and DMR builds and you would be surprised how long it would last. I usually use 60 degree Macarons in AEGs shooting 1.5-1.8 Joules and it never fails me combined with a ZCI barrel and omega nub. Tuning the gun itself is far more important than just the bucking hardness.
Remember, buckings are consumables as much as AEG o-rings are. Yes, softer buckings will wear faster compared to a 70-80 degree but i'd prefer better accuracy than bucking longevity.
Personally, i like soft bucking more because it create better air seal compared to harder bucking.
It is also cheaper.
And I also find that harder bucking tends to become brittle faster than softer one. Especially when stored at long time
@VegaStryke Sorry, but he is very much correct. Some aspects of what you said also can factor into how things work. But as a whole, the heavier bb and faster bb builds will have far better accuracy and longevity if all is built correct with a harder bucking. Where some of your comments become accurate depends more on ambient temperatures. If the temperatures are colder heavier bb and faster bb builds do better with a softer bucking because of the cold temperatures stiffening the bucking. Yes depending on if you play indoors, outdoors, and/or your velocities are higher versus lower can all be a factor as to which will work better. In the end if you do not care about the longevity of your bucking then yea go ahead and stick with a soft one. Just remember that you maybe more tech savvy and have no issues opening up your gun to replace the bucking, but I would say there is a larger group that are not savvy enough as I see their guns in my workshop for even easier issues.
@@ebehdzikraa3855If built correctly they will both seal the same.
Thanks man! Came looking for copper and I found gold! This helped a lot!
This is channel is one and only tells u the truth and by giving you advice which parts is works fine without buying a whole damn upgrades for nothing just for the looks sometimes or people seeing you invest a good amount of money for good upgrades I don’t care what people says about this but whatever been said I loved to watch all he’s videos and I do appreciate he’s time and effort to do the video and explain each details not some of yall very insecure and DEMANDING so shut up and just appreciate and thankful to this man period
Thanks for this. Always prefer evidence to assumptions/hearsays.
Thank you for actually testing them. Great vid.
Great video and experiment! This answered some questions I had about hardness in buckings! 😄
What about v shape and w shape hop up??
Want to add, higher degree bucking is better for more precision on higher powered systems you will see lack luster results on a low power or stock system. For measurable effect: Bucking = reach out distance, barrel diameter = more accuracy. My DMRs are 2.10 - 3.0J, 450-550FPS minimum engagement distance 100 - 150 feet depending on feild. In the same control i can hit 2-4 inch grouping at 100 feet, 8-10 inch at 200, 12-20 inches at 300 (with rifle zerod in sled). If I change to stock bucking these numbers will change drastically. If anyone is interested I will create a video showing stock bucking, then 50-80 degree buckings. Each bucking would be used in a tournament ready HPA DMR with .32 BBs. I would shoot 300-400-500-600fps through the buckings each at a engagement distance of 100, 200, then 300 feet with same hopup position. (Control for FPS would be changing HPA DMRs pressure, then matching same pressure for each buckings FPS tests, and for compliance would chrono each bucking before testing to ensure FPS is ball park +/- 15) Ive done this test before just not in a video format. The results then were harder bucking allowed higher FPS system to reach out further. The lower FPS saw increased range at softer buckings, but decreased range as the hardness climbed. Meaning, if FPS is the same the 50 degree bucking and 70 degree bucking will make a large difference at longer engagement distances with 70 allowing better range with high FPS system.
It depends on your fps which to use
More fps harder bucking
Hey it me again in taiwan gun there is a combo FLAT HOP UP BUCKING 55-60° [MODIFY] or is it better to buy maple leaf 60 and the DELAYER OMEGA [MAPLE LEAF]
Was the test conducted with the hop up off?
man i legit been saying that the whole video lol not a very good way to test buckings
a harder rubber requires more pressure. This causes more repeatable insertion of BB's into the chamber. BB's are shot into the chamber through the nozzle, tappet plate and its spring. A hard rubber also reduces power, so it will not be suitable for every set. Especially when we are talking about 1-1.5J.
Is your hop even on? They all dropping down
Im a noob in airsoft. Can i ask what does 45 and 90 degree for the piston means?
what one should i use for a mk12 mod1 spr from double bell?
This is a good channel, keep the vids coming !!!
I’m using .49 gram in my fully built Tac 41 at 501 fps I found that the 75 degree is the better one to go with because the grouping of each shot is a lot smaller and when all you see is someone’s head you want be able to hit that 6 in target compared to the 2ft width of someone’s body.
Dude where do you play that let you run a .49 at 500fps? your joules of energy would be way high
@@phillipwall1932Yea I want to know, unless the person is using it for pest control or trespasser deterence
@@sithknight7740Outdoor game snipers consistently run in those velocity ranges depending on your area and rules here in the USA.
Very good explained❤
They're not degrees. Hardness and softness rating is known as the "durometer"
Yes, but they “maple leaf” purposely write those ratings in degrees.
durometer is the tool to measure the shore hardness :)
@LockdownSpin well sure but the context was the degree related to outside temps which it does not. The numbers represent the rubber durometer
So if that’s not a degree called why in the hell all companies they called every damn hop up bucking called 80/60/50/70 degrees and what’s matter your tying to correct this man I’ve been playing airsoft and build so many rips aeg/gbb and looks like your trying to push you silliness so what do u called if its not degrees?
@@Gbrmkrs In this context the question of "degree" was in relation to temperature. The duro is referred to as degrees yes, but it doesn't mean temperature. You're getting angry for no reason. There's no silliness here.
doesnt seem very accurate, a .20 at 100 feet dropping like that seems to say you dont have the hop dialed in, not sure what was proven here aside from heavier bbs tend to hold their accuracy more.
Theres a whole lot more than just hop that not dialed in on this guys builds....
@@alextatkin1026 oh yeah. lol thats just the most glaring obvious thing in the video
thank you, although it would have been cool to see say .26 bbs vs 32's to have a better idea of how much accuracy returns you get with different weights
outdoors you would kinda want the highest that your gun can hop but indoors for cqb just stay for .2g or maybe even .16g considering you get more velocity. (in my VSR i use .46g and if i could get here even heavier i would go for it. Problem is just thats the highest i can purchase)
Note: The difference is especially big at higher ranges and guns with more fps and higher hop capabilities get more range at heavier bbs.
This. Use 0.30grams please :) mostly nobody plays with 0.20 if they do these mods
. 32's will give a tighter group at distance. But a lot comes down to how you build your gun out.
The shot trajectory is hilariously wrong. Neither of the shots were done with proper hop up use.
The proper trajectory shoud look like this: straight line, slight climb up, slight straight line, quick fall down.
Overhopped looks like this: immediate climb at parabolic trajectory, slight straight line, quick fall down.
Underhopped: straight line, gradual falling down.
In the video, clearly all shots are underhopped.
thank you for your explanation video
Great info
Good info!
🧐
@@Shark_Theory 🙋♂️
what's that got to do with temperature???? xD there is no F or C after the ° (degrees) sign.
This was helpful to some degree. But 100 ft is not the test I wanted to see. I wanted to see 200 ft 300 ft 400 ft etc. And how you adjusted the hop up on it. Accuracy is great distance is great also I won't both
Thanks! Makes a lot of sense, given the way you explain it!
the higher the bucking degree the higher the bb weight to use needs to go up. This video will lead you the wrong way.
Can you please remake this with atleast .30 it's the average outdoor user weight if not .32 for the serious person. We use .30 at 330 to 350 fps 420 fps with a .20
Finally! I too would receive non-answers to this question.
It’s the degree of hardness. The softer the bucking, the more hop. Gotta find the sweet spot between hop and durability. Or maybe it’s the temperature the bucking’s going to melt 😆
Nice vídeo 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Lol I always thought the degrees meant angle, boy do I have some learning to do
4:20 this dude got more ice then polar bears in Antarctica
thanks chris first video when i looked this up
Does this guy think a protractor measures the temperature? 😅
I know this video is 3 years old now buy what you call temperature rating are not, they are shore hardness.
i have seen this man age on video
He's been throwing down knowledge for a while. If I was ever in Maryland for a bit I'd go check out his shop/arena.
LMAO @ calling it temperature. Look up a Shore hardness scale buddy.
Great video thanks