I did the math on how much barrel wiggle can affect accuracy. With a 270mm barrel, if the end has .5mm of play, you have a deflection of ~93mm at 50m. Worst case scenario you have 186mm groupings on target. In english units, with a 10.63 inch barrel, ~1/50 (.019685) inch of play, you have a deflection of ~3.66 inches at ~54.68 yards. Worst case scenario you have 7.32 inch groupings on target. And that's not accounting for any other sources of inaccuracy.
Absolute genius! I just learnt soooo much from you taking the time to get into the intricacies of part geometry. I need to pull down my gear again. And apply what you just showed me. And you are right, If my parts wiggle , so will my targets.
I got one of those barrels in my trash SnowWolf M24 (trash as in, the parts in it are literally homemade) It hops too much to the left making the BBs fly right. Very annoying. With the rifle slightly tilted it shoots lasers though because the homemade Rhop patch is consistent enough.
Awesome little guide even from a non hpa user this makes a lot of sense. Never occured to me the style of patch should match the flat surface your using for the nub. It also helps to explain why I've had such bad luck historically with maple leaf buckings when in theory they should of out performed other buckings.
SO GLAD to see simple, tried and true advice/reminders like the "don't forget to clean your barrel" ; I can't tell you how many times I thought my bucking was busted and it really was that my barrel was nasttyyyy
Mate you are awesome ! I got custom airsoft gun with maxx hopup and I could play with only lowcap’s.. after that video Ive just checked the hopup and and it wobling. I use medical bants for hopuo stabilty and bom ! Guess what ? Now, its works with all of my midcaps ! You are awesome mate thank you so much ! ❤
Holy shit dude Ive been through dozens of explanations of what and how and why and NOBODY was clear and technical as you. Thank you so much. Only problem is finding the correct parts now 😂
@RCustoms, you should make more videos outlining setting up key parts of an airsoft gun. Because of this video alone, I subscribed but noticed you didn’t really have other videos based on setting up key parts of airsoft guns. I’d love to see more as this is the most helpful video I've seen since I started airsoft.
@legallyM.I.A, I never bothered to make more vids as I am no YT hero, but with a new job find myself having more time and can defenetly do this. I can do a overall intro into Airsoft teching as I do feel there are plenty of great video's already out there on things like shimming or speed builds. What is less common is tip's and trick around gearbox alignment, best way to take down an AEG, GBBR airseal. What would be helpfull content you would like to see?
@@RCustoms well, having a video on how to get a perfect air seal would be quite good as right now I don't know all that much other than more O-rings = better. I actually have a fairly good seal tbh but I’d like to know more. Other videos could be things such as initial upgrades for beginners as I honestly think most of them out there aren't quite the best and I’d like to see what you recommend(I’d probably do long-lasting things first that boost performance a lot and then as time goes on people can add more fine-tuning). Another one could be how to effectively set up a gearbox(short stroking gears, wires, etc), also you could do one on how to determine what bb your gun works best with. These were just a couple I came up with on the spot so you could probably figure out some more but I hope you give it a good go.
You could also do something on how to make your gearbox longer lasting, for example, putting holes in the corners of the piston cylinder area, which spreads the shock making the gearbox last longer and less likely to crack.
oh my instant sub for me here . the best explanation ever !! after airsofting for 15 years with 100+ collections and gunsmithing speedsoft/milsim this guy nailed it ! -a filipino Taiwan airsofter. thanks man ! hoping to comeback to airsofting after covid stopped me 😅
Hey, just wanted to say thank u for your effort. I’m cooking up my first build and this vid cleared up a number of technicalities I was still wrapping my head around. Much appreciated.
If have seen over a 100 videos of airsoft tec eod correction from batery to motor to gears tension upgardes shiimming but never ever seen a video like this one never thougt about those many other spaces that might take it of centre in always focused more on very good sealing and compressionb
It's crazy how much people think that sinking hundreds if not thousands into their custom upgraded parts with a good company logo is the best way to go. I disagree with that statement. You just have to know a little bit about what you're doing to properly research great products (not name branded) with very affordable prices.
I prefer maple leaf macrons and not the super macron.they just fit better in everything but with the super macron those 2 side tabs way cause inconsistencies. I have one in my ak that I never replaced. I should though.
I ripped my firefly nub removing my inner barrel forcefully from my hip up assembly. Is it because the hop up arm could’ve been adjust to down into the barrel opening?
Nice video! Im not sure i understood you right, you glued the nub to the small piece that is pushed down by the red A arm on your SI setup? Because SI setup has 3 piece, Arm, TDC nub with "a" on it and rubber nub under it. Also, what nub are you using? SI, ML Omega?
HI guys, I have feeding issues with my rifle and too low joule. M130 and only 1.3J? When testing everything per hand it fits perfect. Gearbox compression is absolute 100%. Absolute no Air gets out. When driving the Nozzle forward and holding the barrel close, there is very very slow pressure release, so no reason for low energy. The nozzle closes good with the bucking and in the back position of the nozzle, you can just drop a bb in there and push it into the bucking/HUU. So why do i got those problems? I couldnt figure out. I tried several buckings and nozzles. Tried with a delay clip, sanding down the front of the tappet plate. Nothing worked
Great video! could you provide the links to eh products shown in the video? I have a VFC avalon mk18 I am wanting to turn into a laser beam and wondering if you ould give me some recommendations and the links that will help me. Thank you for the video friend.
Hello, i have a Tippman M4 HPA version 1, did the TDC mod and i have tried changing the barrel to a more quality one, shoots better than stock but still far from lasers also tried different nubs..one issue i have is i can t use anything but a round nub…any advice is appreciated, thanks.
There is a big if with your FPS condition of 1-3 fps variation. To get that you need to be a real wizard. My MTW runs currently with 10-12 fps variation and despite my numerous efforts to track down and tackle this issue it just wont go away.
Are we talking semi or full auto here? With both Reaper and Inferno you should be below 5fps variance on semi otherwise you have a problem with your setup. What I have seen often driving this is actually the regulator (both on you bottle and the seconday regulator). I don't know why people never check this, but would definitly recommend just trying some bottles and regs from other people to rule out that this is the problem. With MTW the silly spring connectors on your main board need to be clean and well connecting as this is also something that plays up with many MTW's (hate this design). If not the electronics or regulator, you really should zoom in on your hopup, bucking and nozzle. In MTW's I personally don't stop tuning untill I hit below 3 fps. Not to frustrate you, but for this price point and being HPA you should be getting a performance machine. To put this in perspective with AEG's it is very doable to get consistant 1 FPS consistancy. For good brands like Krytac or LCT this does not even require any upgrading. We are buying MTW's not just for their looks and great quality body, but should be allowed to expect performance as well
Nubs never get the credit but are perhaps the most important part. Nubs are often miscut, don't fit the hop up arm right nor the barrel window. The worst offenders also happen to be the best nub type, the concave nub. I have been making custom nubs with Sugru. It molds exactly to to shape of the barrel window and arm. On my mtw I have a maxx hop up and take the nub that comes with it which is a 4mm foam square glued to a aluminum base. I remove the foam and clean it up. I ball up a lil Sugru and push it into the hop up window with the barrel hard side not the patch. I then put the aluminum nub over the Sugru which molds right to it. Then assemble normally minus the spring. After it dries after a few days I remove the Sugru portion, trim excess and glue it to the aluminum portion. I can then use the spring so the hop returns after decreasing. What you get is a perfectly matched concave nub that fills the entire barrel window. The performance I get out of this combo along with extended S hop from a Davinci 6.05 rcode is staggering. I really enjoyed this video. It was informative, easy to follow and practical. Easy subscribe for me.
Amazing video! What bucking and nub do you use? I play with 0.25gr bbs at 1 joule and have struggled to find a great combo for my mtw and article 1 setups.
With MTW I recommend the G&G green or Begadi SHS as the easiest to get good results with. Other buckings can work well, but either take more effort or a specific barrel window to work well. Safest nub is still the ML Omega, Silent Industries hard nub or Stalker Blue (AAP-01) CNC nub. The harder and bigger the nub, the more extreme hop effect is created. Softer nubs are more forgiving but show more spread. A good setup has almost no left/right spread and only shows over/under hop fluctuations. The Article One is a mysterious beast and have no recommendations as they seem to only like stock setup. Have no idea why some work well and other only work stock.
Randomly got this suggested, great vid. I do have a question. You mention that glueing the bucking to the hopup arm is the best becuase then it doesn't rock back/forth anymore. But isn't that the same as a hopup arm with integrated bucking then where you'd apply too much forward or backward pressure depending on hop setting? Maybe I don't understand but in my mind it seems similar (except you get control of the initial angle). Thanks!
Glueing the Nub perfectly in place only applies when you use a TDC hopup that does not offer a 1-piece nub design like with the SI hopup. Maxx and retro arms offer TDC hopups with such integrated nubs that solve this issue by design. Normal hopup arms (even the 1-piece design in the picture) should not get glued as dialling in your hop actually than changes the angle in which the nub engages with the bucking.
what do you trhink about the maxx hopup unit? I bought it about a year ago and wasnt sure at this moment to use the SI or Maxx one at this point. Using a PDI Barrel.
Both are good. I have preference for the SI unit as the 'rings' allow better airseal and pressure on feedlips. Both do have very tight tolenances and work perfect with PDI as long as you get the bucking and nub positioned perfectly. Here the Maxx has advantage in the fixed nub design as only thing to worry about is the bucking placement. Small window of PDI does work better with classing bucking design. With MTW specifically the power of the nozzle shooting forward is high and a bit irregular. The classic ridge design allows to apply a bit more hop pressure which stops the bb and keeps bb placement more stable (less over/underhop). Hope that helps
2 ปีที่แล้ว
Hello, According to your experience, what would be the best hopup unit and bucking for a 380 mm / 6.08 pdi inner barrel mounted on a 14 pouces Forged MTW (playing with 0,36 bbs and 1,55 joules)? Hop up chamber: - Silent Industries Alpha - Maxx Model M4W CNC - Stock hopup Bucket: - Green G&G - Maple Leaf Super Macaron 60 - Maple Leaf Super Macaron 70 Thanks for your feedback
Depends if you are running the Reaper or Inferno engine (standard inferno nozzle). Reaper I would take the Begadi SHP in 70 degree and with inferno the G&G green or blue. If you use the G&G use the Omega nub and with Begadi a Stalker AAP01/AEG CNC nub. Personally not the biggest fan of the ML buckings as you have to really put effort to get them fitted correctly. SI hopup is easiest to get right and is the best hopup till date, So would stick with this one. Allow some time to fine-tune and don't dismiss the setup after a few shots. Correctly installed the shots should show almost no left or right deviations on a target at 30 meters and only minor over/under hop (all within size of your hand). Use old school speedloaders and quality brand BB's. Bad quality BB's and sidewinders dent BB's no matter how good your setup is.
2 ปีที่แล้ว
@@RCustoms Thanks for the answer. I am running the Inferno Gen2. At this very time I have very good consistency, accuracy and range on 65 meters with stock elements (380 mm / 6.03 inner barrel and hopup). I use 80 psi to get 1,55 joules with Geoffs 0,36 bbs (I have tested all weights from 0,20 to 0,43 and 0,36 seems to be the best compromise beetwen accuracy and fps). I am about to test a new upgrade just to see if it is possible to enhance the accuracy. I bouhgt a 380 mm / 6.08 pdi inner barrel. I now need to choose between the Maxx or the SI and also a bucket. I thought Maple Leaf Super Macaron was the best bucket to improve airseal on a pdi barrel. According to my fps a 60 degree seems to be the best configuration in order to avoid putting too much effort on the hopup wheel (the more magnus effect you put on the wheel the more deviations you are going to get on long range). I am not playing CQB (only in forest). Thanks for your very interesting videos about improving accuracy.
@ the new silicone buckings are very grippy and I personally like running them on the harder side. Airseal on ML and begadi are good with G&G needing a tighter hopup like SI or Maxx to seal well. I Personally always teflon the bucking end once everything shoots straight to get perfect airseal. ML are not bad buckings, but just not finished very clean. With PDI you have to really be carefull to get this alignment parts next to the concave well seated in line with the PDI window otherwise they don't center well. The silicone ML are thin and deform (stretch) quickly, so make sure the bucking is seated around the barrel equally in all places.
Do you have pressure problems with reaper? I've seen that people if it will chrono it at different time (1min, 5 min, 10 mins, 3o mins) between shots, they have different reading. As it doesn't seals and more pressure is gather in the inside chamber if you leave it.
Depends very much on your joule and bb weight. I like 60 or 70 silicon or cold resistant style buckings. Hard enough to not flex too much at concave or lips, but still rough enough to apply consistant hop. Go for begadi or alternatively for G&G green or madbull purple/red as they have good quality. Maple leaf is hit or miss and most others have been mweh at best.
Green g&g has been my go to for most of my guns, never had a problem with them! I'm mostly a DMR user, but have one in my M27 as well, works great full auto or semi.
After watching this video I checked my hop and noticed left-right wobble. Used some electrical tape and made shims on the wings to remove play. In creating a connection between the hop and the gearbox, which is better, or shows better consistency(if tested); spring hop tension against the gearbox, or orings crushing the hop into the gearbox? Subbed!
Best barrels for begadi buckings? Want to use an SHP5 but not sure what barrel to use. I was thinking prometheus brighter barrel. Also using a MAXX M4P atm.
Begadi actually has recommended barrels for their barrels. They are really a great shop in that sense. Prommy and Lambda work wonders with their buckings. Their nubs and even hopups are great too! Planning to throw in their Hopup in my LCT and will make a video on a full Bedagi setup as I think they are great innovators and deserve a bump 😉
@@RCustoms How about PDI? Is the barrel window not suitable for the begadi buckings? For example I know with the maxx hops they tell you to use the default flat hop nub and I'm not sure how that would work out with a PDI barrel window.
You should only glue a nub to a TDC style arm, not a normal arm as they the angle of the arm changes when you dial up or down and with it would change angle in which the nub engages with the bucking
Ben allemaal informatieve videos aan het toevoegen aan een airsoft essentials lijst en deze video gaat er zeker in! Erg duidelijk en zeer informatief! Heeft u ook nog tips hoe u een gbb pistol tot een laser maakt? In uw combat cqb video lijkt de glock ook erg nauwkeurig.
Ik ben eigenlijk helemaal van de pistols af, maar zal maatje eens lief aankijken of ik zijn TM 1911 af voorbeeld kan gebruiken. Fixed barrel is hierin key en ook hopup is net iets specifieker. Wil je platform waar dit standaard goed zit zijn vooral de NBB's en de AAP-01 (met CNC rotary hopup) de beste opties. GBB vragen net iets meer om zo strak te krijgen
@@RCustoms Bedankt voor je antwoord! Een video voor gbb pistols zou echt heel fijn zijn! Dit leek mij een goede handeling voor de WE desert eagle waar de barrel ook fixed is en voor mijn KWC 1911 waar de hop up niet meer werkt (reden moet ik nog achterhalen). Ik wil deze video toepassen op de kwc 1911 samen met een r-hop of flat hop om daarmee een nieuw leven in de replica te blazen. Ik kijk uit naar uw volgende video!
great video. what is the white material used to stop movement of the hop up unit? how do I check the placement of the bucking in the hop up unit, when its a non transparent bucking? Atm I am using the tnt tr hop and its black, so I cant see from the outside, where the hop up patch is.
White stuff to stop movement is just houshold bandage. It's make to stick and stay glued under rough conditions, so just works extremely well. Its thin and soft so it fill movement up really nicely. With non see through buckings you have to work from the inside. Use strong light to determine if the concave of the bucking sits perfectly centered with equal space left and right with start of concave exacly at beginning of barrel window. Once bucking sits perfectly you place the nub inside and position it perfectly aligned with concave by pressing the nub down by hand and find sweet spot (mostly as much forward toward barrel window as possible) where concave goes down equally. Lastly place hopup arm and push down on nub. If the nub moved position your arm is not perfect for the combo, but if nub stayed as is you have a winning combination.
@@RCustoms i made some testing and measurements. the bucking is perfectly centered (left ro right) inside the window. when checking the front to read centering: the patch is starting the the rear and fits into the hopup window. however the maxx tensioner is only pushing the read 2/3 of the bucking down. I will test the longer tensioner, to see if that improves hop consistency. So far I think the tnt tr hop is the only bucking, that has the perfect sized feed lips, to work with my kythera nozzle.
@@marcoviebrock1550 slightly smaller nub can still be good for consistancy (just little less hop), but pressure point should be toward front (barrel bridge) and nub should compliment convave shape, not deform it. If TNT works well the begadi SHP can be a great alternative. Like TNT is has a bit stronger lips that work well with nozzles with angled ending instead of the blunt stomp normal AEG nozzles have.
@@RCustoms the kythera nozzle has an angled shape. the begadi shp was the 2nd best performing bucking so far, only the tnt tr hop beat it. The short maxx nub is very close to the bridge of the bucking (thats the side I meant with rear). Do you know any other bucking that are similar to the tr hop?
Hey, I'm a little confused in regard to what Bucking/Nub you are using / referring to in this video. For the MTW, I've got an SI hop up myself. But i can't seem to find a good setup. I've tried many barrels at this point. And just can't seem to get past 50m with 1.2J and .30 bbs. Would it perhaps be possible for you to help me with perhaps picking something different setup wise.. (I'm luckily also dutch)
Really depends on bucking, arm and nub combo. Most important here is nub placement. Example; Maple Leaf (super) Macron bucking has a thin and long triangle that requires a smaller nub like the omega, but only if the arm of the hopup places the nub exactly on the triangle. Longer nubs like the begadi or Stalker can help with positioning in some cases as these are not too wide but longer. Longer nubs do wiggle more and benefit from fixing them in TDC hopups like the SI
Buddy, if this will be your first airsoft replica you are already going to peak with your first game. Got a forged Milspec myself and chose it over the billet because the body is 7022 forged aluminium and all other parts are real steel. This thing has the best quality body in the market and is build like a tank! Join the MTW owners facebook group and PM me if you are looking to make this thing outshoot anything in the field or if you ever are having issues. Think you are making a great decision buying an MTW 😉
Is er een merk en diameter barrel met bucking wat jij aanraad? Ik heb nu namelijk 2 G&G pcc9 replica's, één met een F2 en één electrisch. Beide hebben een maxx model hopup maple leaf 6.02 barrel en een 60graden super Macron. Ik zit er zelf aan te denken om toch een 6.01 aan te schaffen. Volgens jou filmpje zou dit gewoon moeten kunnen werken. Maar is er een merk waar jij zelf erg tevreden over bent?
Diameter of lengte maken niet veel uit voor accuraatheid of range. Wel voor je Joules en efficiency van vooral je HPA engine. Voor barrels zijn er veel met gewoon nette afwerking, maar wisselende kwaliteit tussen de batches. Ikzelf ben geen Maple Leaf fan omdat de ene CJ sterren uit de hemel schiet en zoals in filmpje vervolgens een 6.02 hebt waar werkelijk elke snede scheef gefrased is. Wil je niet gokken zeg ik ZCI, Prometheus EG, Stalker, airsoft philosopher of PDI. Je F2 kan meeste buckings goed aan door dubbele solenoids, maar bij single solenoid engines zou ik de Begadi SHP of G&G Green pakken. Niet omdat er geen andere goede buckings zijn, maar deze zijn altijd goede kwaliteit en kan je bijna niet verkeerd monteren. Voor SMP's zou ik beginnen met de G&G green, want die nozzledruk is hard en incosistent waardoor je bb's te ver op de bucking geplaatst worden. De G&G green heeft kleine en lompe ridge die de BB stopt en waar je meer druk geeft door kleinere bucking ridge. Ben je meer ervaren en wil je lange afstanden dan zou ik met AEG en F2 voor de Rhop gaan op barrel met grote en vooral unbridged barrel als de Stalker of Crazy Jet. Met Rhop kun je namelijk andere hardheid bucking met goede lippen kiezen en zachte patch houden (gebruik aub geen Mnub, erasers of sorbo's maar grote CNC nub). Maxx is prima hopup en heeft standaard aantal CNC nubs. Wel goed checken of die perfect aansluiten met je barrel window 😉
Mijn maatje en ik hebben een MTW forged gekocht en wouden gisteren even lekker airsoften maar wij hadden beide het probleem dat hij amper 20 meter schoot en met veel schommelingen. Hoeveel wij ook met de hop speelden er gebeurde niks. Met fps meten zat er max 3 fps verschil per schot in. Enig idee waar het probleem kan liggen? Doe jij ook aan het onderhoud/upgraden/afstellen van replica's? Zo ja kunnen wij een keer langs komen hiervoor (uiteraard betalen wij hiervoor) Groetjes Roy en Marcel
Welk type hopup hebben jullie (plastic, oranje Phoenix of zilvere CNC)? Waarschijnlijk zit er een Phoenix hopup in die niet goed is afgesteld. Komt meestal met een ouder type Maple Leaf macaron 70 bucking (baby blauwe kleur) die niet lekker werkt met de Phoenix in ons klimaat. Mijn suggestie is om gelijk de bucking te vervangen voor een G&G green en nub voor een ML omega. Daarna de Phoenix tensioner (schroef bij nozzle opening van opening) losser te draaien. Laat er een BB in vallen en kijk of deze soepel naar binnen valt en je deze zonder al te veel tegendruk met een sateprikker door de buckinglippen heen kan drukken. Schiet die weer zoals het hoort. Als je er dan niet uitkomt kunnen we altijd een keer afspreken en kijk ik er naar. Geen betaling nodig hoor.
I wonder what are my hop up options are with an AK, since there are not many... I wish you made more in depth content, you clearly have a fkton of wisdom that you could share.
@@RCustoms If the stock barrel has a badly profiled window, you can take a risk ;). Anyway, in the worst case (if the operation fails), you will have to buy a new barrel.
Thank you for speaking the truth about maple leaf lol. Maple leaf product's quality control is garbage, I've had so many crooked barrels and hop up bucking's with irregularities. Their products work well when they do work, but so often than not their barrel windows/cutouts and bucking's are crooked and send BB's curving to the left or right. So much tweaking to get working properly in these cases, definitely belongs in the trash lmao.
Or.. Just get a prowin style gearbox with the hopup built in the gearbox and solve all your allignment problems with the outer barrel. Great video keep it uP!
I have to disagree on the lapping, as it will get a boost out of nearly everything. Things like a short Crazy Jet, EdGI, ESCW, and maybe Orga will not see much improvement, but over the 2 PDI, 3 Lambda, 1 DaVinci, 1 Airsoft Philosopher, 4 Angel Custom, many homemade fat barrels, and many many mystery and stock barrels I have seen medium to world shattering improvement. Maybe not world shattering, but I have gone to groups maybe 1/4 the size of normal from a shitty Cyma barrel by just lapping it. The arm thing is definitely good, I am a big fan of super glue, aluminum tape, and teflon tape for shimming arms and nubs, it is amazing that companies will sell a chamber for $60, like the TAC41 or new Action Army VSR one, with a loose nub or arm in a great CNC body. The contact patch thing is good too, I have been experimenting with BB placement and have found that on Maple Leaf buckings that it's best to have the center point of the BB to be .5-1mm onto the patch and held there, which gives the most accuracy compared to any more or any less. As for the nub thing, I have also found that bonded nubs are the best, and have actually "invented" my own nub if you would like to take a look. www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/ss-arm-ss-nub-tutorial.65567/ General shimming can do a lot to a gun, especially if you are working on a budget or are dealing with a gun with no upgrade chamber, or the upgrade chambers around suck. I recently made my friend's AX-15 much better with just some super glue, plastic sheet, teflon tape, and aluminum tape in about the course of 45 minutes. After lapping and an R-hop along with my homemade nub, the gun was as good as about anything else I've used that shoots .28g. PDI and DaVinci are my current favorite though, as they do not need much lapping to max out performance, and I trust their straightness more than EdGi or anybody else. I am excited to try the new ESCW 5.98 stainless though, I hope it won't benefit even a bit from lapping.
Agree that if done properly you do see some benefit of lapping. Still dont know if that is because it removes friction or equalizes tollerance of the barrel and inside of the window, but definitly keeps the barrel clean much longer. It unfortunatly takes much time and needs to be done very even with a dense perfectly size sponge before you see results. Most people just end up giving their barrel a good clean instead of really lapping the thing 😜 worst case a clean barrel still helps you down range 😉 The nub from your post creates a perfectly shaped and sized nub that matches the bucking shape and window size. Very clever.
My man. Isn't Davinci awesome? I just love mine. The extra wide barrel window, the almost perfect tolerance and exclusivity of them. Can't be beat by anyone if you ask me.
Is there anything groups for Hpa m4s? I have been learning to upgrade my barrel setups and I would love any help possible for recommendations on upgrade parts you’re post on shimming and making your own nubs was very helpful thank you
@@Mountain_Armory there's basically just Facebook and ASF, but only really FB is active. Hmu on ASF, it has a messaging function that's not too hard to use
@@Mountain_Armory Basically just FB and the sniper forum, but FB is too hard to search/keep track of for me so I don't use it often. Hmu on the sniper forum and I should be able to help you out, but there's also some other guys on there that are pretty knowledgeable
I don't have a discord but you can try on on FB. I used to be on MTW FB page a lot, but switch back to my love for recoil. PM on FB and I will try to help out
i did not think i would actually sit here for 25 minutes and learn so much
Get this man some subs yall know he deserves it. Most informative airsoft tech video ive seen in a long while.
Amen
Absolutely!
I did the math on how much barrel wiggle can affect accuracy.
With a 270mm barrel, if the end has .5mm of play, you have a deflection of ~93mm at 50m. Worst case scenario you have 186mm groupings on target.
In english units, with a 10.63 inch barrel, ~1/50 (.019685) inch of play, you have a deflection of ~3.66 inches at ~54.68 yards. Worst case scenario you have 7.32 inch groupings on target.
And that's not accounting for any other sources of inaccuracy.
Knowing this information you have made me completely certain that I want to tear apart my hop and check it… thank you.
Seven inches at 50 meters seems reasonable for anything that isn't a sniper honestly, and within 20 meters it would probably be more than fine
This might be the best airsoft tech video I've ever seen. So many aspects explained with solutions suggested and demonstrated. Truly a great video
After weeks of testing how to get my MTW consistant, i´ve seen this video and now it works
Absolute genius! I just learnt soooo much from you taking the time to get into the intricacies of part geometry. I need to pull down my gear again. And apply what you just showed me. And you are right, If my parts wiggle , so will my targets.
Dude put that maple leaf inner barrel on blast lmao, but he knows wtf he’s talking about. This video taught me a lot.
I got one of those barrels in my trash SnowWolf M24 (trash as in, the parts in it are literally homemade) It hops too much to the left making the BBs fly right. Very annoying. With the rifle slightly tilted it shoots lasers though because the homemade Rhop patch is consistent enough.
Awesome little guide even from a non hpa user this makes a lot of sense. Never occured to me the style of patch should match the flat surface your using for the nub. It also helps to explain why I've had such bad luck historically with maple leaf buckings when in theory they should of out performed other buckings.
I did not even reach the end yet but i can already say, this video is one of most informative on the internet
SO GLAD to see simple, tried and true advice/reminders like the "don't forget to clean your barrel" ; I can't tell you how many times I thought my bucking was busted and it really was that my barrel was nasttyyyy
I wasn't even interested in tuning Airsoft when I click on this video but I sat and watched the whole video. Now I'm interested haha
Mate you are awesome ! I got custom airsoft gun with maxx hopup and I could play with only lowcap’s.. after that video Ive just checked the hopup and and it wobling. I use medical bants for hopuo stabilty and bom ! Guess what ? Now, its works with all of my midcaps ! You are awesome mate thank you so much ! ❤
Hy i have similar problem, can you tell what did you do?
Excellent and in depth video, you’ve introduced me to slight variables I hadn’t thought of before in my setup
Holy shit dude Ive been through dozens of explanations of what and how and why and NOBODY was clear and technical as you. Thank you so much. Only problem is finding the correct parts now 😂
@RCustoms, you should make more videos outlining setting up key parts of an airsoft gun. Because of this video alone, I subscribed but noticed you didn’t really have other videos based on setting up key parts of airsoft guns. I’d love to see more as this is the most helpful video I've seen since I started airsoft.
@legallyM.I.A, I never bothered to make more vids as I am no YT hero, but with a new job find myself having more time and can defenetly do this. I can do a overall intro into Airsoft teching as I do feel there are plenty of great video's already out there on things like shimming or speed builds. What is less common is tip's and trick around gearbox alignment, best way to take down an AEG, GBBR airseal. What would be helpfull content you would like to see?
@@RCustoms well, having a video on how to get a perfect air seal would be quite good as right now I don't know all that much other than more O-rings = better. I actually have a fairly good seal tbh but I’d like to know more. Other videos could be things such as initial upgrades for beginners as I honestly think most of them out there aren't quite the best and I’d like to see what you recommend(I’d probably do long-lasting things first that boost performance a lot and then as time goes on people can add more fine-tuning). Another one could be how to effectively set up a gearbox(short stroking gears, wires, etc), also you could do one on how to determine what bb your gun works best with. These were just a couple I came up with on the spot so you could probably figure out some more but I hope you give it a good go.
You could also do something on how to make your gearbox longer lasting, for example, putting holes in the corners of the piston cylinder area, which spreads the shock making the gearbox last longer and less likely to crack.
Wow I'm new to airsoft and man this video alone has taught me so much. Thank you
oh my instant sub for me here . the best explanation ever !! after airsofting for 15 years with 100+ collections and gunsmithing speedsoft/milsim this guy nailed it ! -a filipino Taiwan airsofter. thanks man ! hoping to comeback to airsofting after covid stopped me 😅
Hey, just wanted to say thank u for your effort. I’m cooking up my first build and this vid cleared up a number of technicalities I was still wrapping my head around. Much appreciated.
Make some noise in the comment section. This guy deserves subs!
Geweldige video, duidelijk en informatief!
Ik raak nu gelijk gemotiveerd om te kijken hoeveel winst er uit mijn setup te halen valt!
Thank you for making this video! After hours of watching videos on this topic, yours was the most helpful.
If have seen over a 100 videos of airsoft tec eod correction from batery to motor to gears tension upgardes shiimming but never ever seen a video like this one never thougt about those many other spaces that might take it of centre in always focused more on very good sealing and compressionb
Thank you, sir. Much needed and well-explained information!
More videos like this! Awesome
Some excellent nuggets of info and points to consider while on the path to perfect hop
It's crazy how much people think that sinking hundreds if not thousands into their custom upgraded parts with a good company logo is the best way to go. I disagree with that statement. You just have to know a little bit about what you're doing to properly research great products (not name branded) with very affordable prices.
thanks for this valuable share of experience
Interesting, though-provoking and very thorough. Extremely good job!
Thank you, kind sir!
amazing video, appreciate you providing all the different examples and how to resolve it
Thank you for making this video
Als je ooit nog tijd hebt om een video te maken hiervan voor gas blowback pistols zou dat enorm helpen! Echt een handige video
This is next level! Great video
Excellent explanation on how to setup the hop up correctly! Thanks so much for this!
Dankjewel! Fantastische video. Veel van geleerd!
Thank you for your job!
Amazing video man. Absolutly love it. Thanks for sharing 💪
Very good information man 👌
Hoping to see more videos like this. Thank you.
Really helped me. Thank you so much for the video!
Best hop video I’ve ever seen
I prefer maple leaf macrons and not the super macron.they just fit better in everything but with the super macron those 2 side tabs way cause inconsistencies. I have one in my ak that I never replaced. I should though.
this guy hop ups
I have been educated. Wow. Thank you very much for making this.
I ripped my firefly nub removing my inner barrel forcefully from my hip up assembly. Is it because the hop up arm could’ve been adjust to down into the barrel opening?
Nice video! Im not sure i understood you right, you glued the nub to the small piece that is pushed down by the red A arm on your SI setup? Because SI setup has 3 piece, Arm, TDC nub with "a" on it and rubber nub under it. Also, what nub are you using? SI, ML Omega?
Are you refering to the panthera cnc nub?
I like the idea of the metal nub
What are some best matching barrels and bucking combos for AEGs in your experience ?
What is the "sticky tape" you used to create better tolerances in your setup?
I'm feeling stupid but I can't find the tape you are using too. It looks like medical bandage tape? Please share! Great vid btw!!!
Great video thanks for the help!
Awesome!!! Thank you very much for this video!
Whats the CNC nub you're using with your MTW omega hopup? Any advice on the making sure its glued properly?
@RCcustoms have you found a good all around setup for v2 m4s? (Hopup, nub, bucking, barrel)
Really nice video dude !!!
HI guys, I have feeding issues with my rifle and too low joule. M130 and only 1.3J? When testing everything per hand it fits perfect. Gearbox compression is absolute 100%. Absolute no Air gets out. When driving the Nozzle forward and holding the barrel close, there is very very slow pressure release, so no reason for low energy. The nozzle closes good with the bucking and in the back position of the nozzle, you can just drop a bb in there and push it into the bucking/HUU. So why do i got those problems? I couldnt figure out. I tried several buckings and nozzles. Tried with a delay clip, sanding down the front of the tappet plate. Nothing worked
Great video!
could you provide the links to eh products shown in the video?
I have a VFC avalon mk18 I am wanting to turn into a laser beam and wondering if you ould give me some recommendations and the links that will help me. Thank you for the video friend.
Hello, i have a Tippman M4 HPA version 1, did the TDC mod and i have tried changing the barrel to a more quality one, shoots better than stock but still far from lasers also tried different nubs..one issue i have is i can t use anything but a round nub…any advice is appreciated, thanks.
Are you Dutch? Do you have a workshop and take in work? I don’t see links in bio
I think the Denglish shows my Dutch roots very clearly 😂. Don't have a shop
There is a big if with your FPS condition of 1-3 fps variation. To get that you need to be a real wizard. My MTW runs currently with 10-12 fps variation and despite my numerous efforts to track down and tackle this issue it just wont go away.
Are we talking semi or full auto here? With both Reaper and Inferno you should be below 5fps variance on semi otherwise you have a problem with your setup. What I have seen often driving this is actually the regulator (both on you bottle and the seconday regulator). I don't know why people never check this, but would definitly recommend just trying some bottles and regs from other people to rule out that this is the problem. With MTW the silly spring connectors on your main board need to be clean and well connecting as this is also something that plays up with many MTW's (hate this design). If not the electronics or regulator, you really should zoom in on your hopup, bucking and nozzle.
In MTW's I personally don't stop tuning untill I hit below 3 fps. Not to frustrate you, but for this price point and being HPA you should be getting a performance machine. To put this in perspective with AEG's it is very doable to get consistant 1 FPS consistancy. For good brands like Krytac or LCT this does not even require any upgrading. We are buying MTW's not just for their looks and great quality body, but should be allowed to expect performance as well
@@RCustoms yeah... that about sums all possible problem spots. AKA the whole system.
could you make a video or guide on how to make a 2 part design of tdc nub and arm into a solid 1 piece item?
Let me post that next week. Making a video on how to make WA style GBBRs shoot right and can record this then as well
@@RCustoms yes pls. It's very hard to glue it in perfectly.
what kind of tape are you using?
He said in another comment, "household bandage". I'm thinking it's just standard medical tape
Nubs never get the credit but are perhaps the most important part.
Nubs are often miscut, don't fit the hop up arm right nor the barrel window. The worst offenders also happen to be the best nub type, the concave nub.
I have been making custom nubs with Sugru. It molds exactly to to shape of the barrel window and arm.
On my mtw I have a maxx hop up and take the nub that comes with it which is a 4mm foam square glued to a aluminum base. I remove the foam and clean it up.
I ball up a lil Sugru and push it into the hop up window with the barrel hard side not the patch. I then put the aluminum nub over the Sugru which molds right to it. Then assemble normally minus the spring.
After it dries after a few days I remove the Sugru portion, trim excess and glue it to the aluminum portion. I can then use the spring so the hop returns after decreasing.
What you get is a perfectly matched concave nub that fills the entire barrel window.
The performance I get out of this combo along with extended S hop from a Davinci 6.05 rcode is staggering.
I really enjoyed this video. It was informative, easy to follow and practical. Easy subscribe for me.
I don't get the part with the sugru Ball. Do you have any video/exemple ? Can you rephrase ? Sorry, english isn't my language...
@@docthorr I just roll the sugru into a small ball then push into the hopup chamber window.
@@msmithy7813 OK, so you set it just like you would set a nub, just without the spring
Good video. Incidentally the rubber is the rubber, the nub is the bucking. Almost everybody gets that wrong.
Pretty educational video
Amazing video! What bucking and nub do you use? I play with 0.25gr bbs at 1 joule and have struggled to find a great combo for my mtw and article 1 setups.
With MTW I recommend the G&G green or Begadi SHS as the easiest to get good results with. Other buckings can work well, but either take more effort or a specific barrel window to work well. Safest nub is still the ML Omega, Silent Industries hard nub or Stalker Blue (AAP-01) CNC nub. The harder and bigger the nub, the more extreme hop effect is created. Softer nubs are more forgiving but show more spread. A good setup has almost no left/right spread and only shows over/under hop fluctuations. The Article One is a mysterious beast and have no recommendations as they seem to only like stock setup. Have no idea why some work well and other only work stock.
flathop works best at 1j. its hilariously good actually.
Randomly got this suggested, great vid.
I do have a question. You mention that glueing the bucking to the hopup arm is the best becuase then it doesn't rock back/forth anymore.
But isn't that the same as a hopup arm with integrated bucking then where you'd apply too much forward or backward pressure depending on hop setting?
Maybe I don't understand but in my mind it seems similar (except you get control of the initial angle).
Thanks!
Glueing the Nub perfectly in place only applies when you use a TDC hopup that does not offer a 1-piece nub design like with the SI hopup. Maxx and retro arms offer TDC hopups with such integrated nubs that solve this issue by design. Normal hopup arms (even the 1-piece design in the picture) should not get glued as dialling in your hop actually than changes the angle in which the nub engages with the bucking.
What do you say about spring put in hop up unit?
this video is very well made
Bro become a teacher damng this was clear and good !
what do you trhink about the maxx hopup unit? I bought it about a year ago and wasnt sure at this moment to use the SI or Maxx one at this point. Using a PDI Barrel.
Both are good. I have preference for the SI unit as the 'rings' allow better airseal and pressure on feedlips. Both do have very tight tolenances and work perfect with PDI as long as you get the bucking and nub positioned perfectly. Here the Maxx has advantage in the fixed nub design as only thing to worry about is the bucking placement. Small window of PDI does work better with classing bucking design. With MTW specifically the power of the nozzle shooting forward is high and a bit irregular. The classic ridge design allows to apply a bit more hop pressure which stops the bb and keeps bb placement more stable (less over/underhop). Hope that helps
Hello,
According to your experience, what would be the best hopup unit and bucking for a 380 mm / 6.08 pdi inner barrel mounted on a 14 pouces Forged MTW (playing with 0,36 bbs and 1,55 joules)?
Hop up chamber:
- Silent Industries Alpha
- Maxx Model M4W CNC
- Stock hopup
Bucket:
- Green G&G
- Maple Leaf Super Macaron 60
- Maple Leaf Super Macaron 70
Thanks for your feedback
Depends if you are running the Reaper or Inferno engine (standard inferno nozzle). Reaper I would take the Begadi SHP in 70 degree and with inferno the G&G green or blue. If you use the G&G use the Omega nub and with Begadi a Stalker AAP01/AEG CNC nub. Personally not the biggest fan of the ML buckings as you have to really put effort to get them fitted correctly. SI hopup is easiest to get right and is the best hopup till date, So would stick with this one. Allow some time to fine-tune and don't dismiss the setup after a few shots. Correctly installed the shots should show almost no left or right deviations on a target at 30 meters and only minor over/under hop (all within size of your hand). Use old school speedloaders and quality brand BB's. Bad quality BB's and sidewinders dent BB's no matter how good your setup is.
@@RCustoms Thanks for the answer. I am running the Inferno Gen2.
At this very time I have very good consistency, accuracy and range on 65 meters with stock elements (380 mm / 6.03 inner barrel and hopup).
I use 80 psi to get 1,55 joules with Geoffs 0,36 bbs (I have tested all weights from 0,20 to 0,43 and 0,36 seems to be the best compromise beetwen accuracy and fps).
I am about to test a new upgrade just to see if it is possible to enhance the accuracy.
I bouhgt a 380 mm / 6.08 pdi inner barrel. I now need to choose between the Maxx or the SI and also a bucket.
I thought Maple Leaf Super Macaron was the best bucket to improve airseal on a pdi barrel.
According to my fps a 60 degree seems to be the best configuration in order to avoid putting too much effort on the hopup wheel (the more magnus effect you put on the wheel the more deviations you are going to get on long range). I am not playing CQB (only in forest). Thanks for your very interesting videos about improving accuracy.
@ the new silicone buckings are very grippy and I personally like running them on the harder side. Airseal on ML and begadi are good with G&G needing a tighter hopup like SI or Maxx to seal well. I Personally always teflon the bucking end once everything shoots straight to get perfect airseal. ML are not bad buckings, but just not finished very clean. With PDI you have to really be carefull to get this alignment parts next to the concave well seated in line with the PDI window otherwise they don't center well. The silicone ML are thin and deform (stretch) quickly, so make sure the bucking is seated around the barrel equally in all places.
Do you have pressure problems with reaper? I've seen that people if it will chrono it at different time (1min, 5 min, 10 mins, 3o mins) between shots, they have different reading. As it doesn't seals and more pressure is gather in the inside chamber if you leave it.
awesome video, lots of good concepts and ideas ive never thought about. what are your thoughts on bucking hardness?
Depends very much on your joule and bb weight. I like 60 or 70 silicon or cold resistant style buckings. Hard enough to not flex too much at concave or lips, but still rough enough to apply consistant hop. Go for begadi or alternatively for G&G green or madbull purple/red as they have good quality. Maple leaf is hit or miss and most others have been mweh at best.
@@RCustoms seeing this shitty ML barrel i am never gonna buy anything from them again lol.
Green g&g has been my go to for most of my guns, never had a problem with them! I'm mostly a DMR user, but have one in my M27 as well, works great full auto or semi.
After watching this video I checked my hop and noticed left-right wobble. Used some electrical tape and made shims on the wings to remove play. In creating a connection between the hop and the gearbox, which is better, or shows better consistency(if tested); spring hop tension against the gearbox, or orings crushing the hop into the gearbox? Subbed!
100% orings
What is the mesh tape you are using to adjust for tolerances between the hopup and the outer barrel?
Looks exactly like Mefix.
Best barrels for begadi buckings? Want to use an SHP5 but not sure what barrel to use. I was thinking prometheus brighter barrel. Also using a MAXX M4P atm.
Begadi actually has recommended barrels for their barrels. They are really a great shop in that sense. Prommy and Lambda work wonders with their buckings. Their nubs and even hopups are great too! Planning to throw in their Hopup in my LCT and will make a video on a full Bedagi setup as I think they are great innovators and deserve a bump 😉
@@RCustoms How about PDI? Is the barrel window not suitable for the begadi buckings? For example I know with the maxx hops they tell you to use the default flat hop nub and I'm not sure how that would work out with a PDI barrel window.
great video
Question when gluing the nub to the hop arm, dose the hop arm need to be perfectly straight?
You should only glue a nub to a TDC style arm, not a normal arm as they the angle of the arm changes when you dial up or down and with it would change angle in which the nub engages with the bucking
Ben allemaal informatieve videos aan het toevoegen aan een airsoft essentials lijst en deze video gaat er zeker in! Erg duidelijk en zeer informatief! Heeft u ook nog tips hoe u een gbb pistol tot een laser maakt? In uw combat cqb video lijkt de glock ook erg nauwkeurig.
Ik ben eigenlijk helemaal van de pistols af, maar zal maatje eens lief aankijken of ik zijn TM 1911 af voorbeeld kan gebruiken. Fixed barrel is hierin key en ook hopup is net iets specifieker. Wil je platform waar dit standaard goed zit zijn vooral de NBB's en de AAP-01 (met CNC rotary hopup) de beste opties. GBB vragen net iets meer om zo strak te krijgen
@@RCustoms Bedankt voor je antwoord! Een video voor gbb pistols zou echt heel fijn zijn! Dit leek mij een goede handeling voor de WE desert eagle waar de barrel ook fixed is en voor mijn KWC 1911 waar de hop up niet meer werkt (reden moet ik nog achterhalen). Ik wil deze video toepassen op de kwc 1911 samen met een r-hop of flat hop om daarmee een nieuw leven in de replica te blazen. Ik kijk uit naar uw volgende video!
great video.
what is the white material used to stop movement of the hop up unit?
how do I check the placement of the bucking in the hop up unit, when its a non transparent bucking? Atm I am using the tnt tr hop and its black, so I cant see from the outside, where the hop up patch is.
White stuff to stop movement is just houshold bandage. It's make to stick and stay glued under rough conditions, so just works extremely well. Its thin and soft so it fill movement up really nicely.
With non see through buckings you have to work from the inside. Use strong light to determine if the concave of the bucking sits perfectly centered with equal space left and right with start of concave exacly at beginning of barrel window. Once bucking sits perfectly you place the nub inside and position it perfectly aligned with concave by pressing the nub down by hand and find sweet spot (mostly as much forward toward barrel window as possible) where concave goes down equally. Lastly place hopup arm and push down on nub. If the nub moved position your arm is not perfect for the combo, but if nub stayed as is you have a winning combination.
@@RCustoms i made some testing and measurements. the bucking is perfectly centered (left ro right) inside the window.
when checking the front to read centering: the patch is starting the the rear and fits into the hopup window. however the maxx tensioner is only pushing the read 2/3 of the bucking down. I will test the longer tensioner, to see if that improves hop consistency.
So far I think the tnt tr hop is the only bucking, that has the perfect sized feed lips, to work with my kythera nozzle.
@@marcoviebrock1550 slightly smaller nub can still be good for consistancy (just little less hop), but pressure point should be toward front (barrel bridge) and nub should compliment convave shape, not deform it. If TNT works well the begadi SHP can be a great alternative. Like TNT is has a bit stronger lips that work well with nozzles with angled ending instead of the blunt stomp normal AEG nozzles have.
@@RCustoms the kythera nozzle has an angled shape. the begadi shp was the 2nd best performing bucking so far, only the tnt tr hop beat it. The short maxx nub is very close to the bridge of the bucking (thats the side I meant with rear).
Do you know any other bucking that are similar to the tr hop?
Hey, I'm a little confused in regard to what Bucking/Nub you are using / referring to in this video. For the MTW, I've got an SI hop up myself. But i can't seem to find a good setup. I've tried many barrels at this point. And just can't seem to get past 50m with 1.2J and .30 bbs. Would it perhaps be possible for you to help me with perhaps picking something different setup wise.. (I'm luckily also dutch)
Really depends on bucking, arm and nub combo. Most important here is nub placement. Example; Maple Leaf (super) Macron bucking has a thin and long triangle that requires a smaller nub like the omega, but only if the arm of the hopup places the nub exactly on the triangle. Longer nubs like the begadi or Stalker can help with positioning in some cases as these are not too wide but longer. Longer nubs do wiggle more and benefit from fixing them in TDC hopups like the SI
Great vid. Thanks
Hi thanks for the info,. Im new to airsoft what is your thoughts on the wolverine mtw fordged. im in the prosess of buying one.
Buddy, if this will be your first airsoft replica you are already going to peak with your first game. Got a forged Milspec myself and chose it over the billet because the body is 7022 forged aluminium and all other parts are real steel. This thing has the best quality body in the market and is build like a tank! Join the MTW owners facebook group and PM me if you are looking to make this thing outshoot anything in the field or if you ever are having issues. Think you are making a great decision buying an MTW 😉
@@RCustoms whats ur facebook?
Zeer hulpzame uitleg bedankt
Best.
MTW.
Video.
Ever.
Thanks man!
Is er een merk en diameter barrel met bucking wat jij aanraad?
Ik heb nu namelijk 2 G&G pcc9 replica's, één met een F2 en één electrisch.
Beide hebben een maxx model hopup maple leaf 6.02 barrel en een 60graden super Macron.
Ik zit er zelf aan te denken om toch een 6.01 aan te schaffen.
Volgens jou filmpje zou dit gewoon moeten kunnen werken.
Maar is er een merk waar jij zelf erg tevreden over bent?
Diameter of lengte maken niet veel uit voor accuraatheid of range. Wel voor je Joules en efficiency van vooral je HPA engine. Voor barrels zijn er veel met gewoon nette afwerking, maar wisselende kwaliteit tussen de batches. Ikzelf ben geen Maple Leaf fan omdat de ene CJ sterren uit de hemel schiet en zoals in filmpje vervolgens een 6.02 hebt waar werkelijk elke snede scheef gefrased is. Wil je niet gokken zeg ik ZCI, Prometheus EG, Stalker, airsoft philosopher of PDI. Je F2 kan meeste buckings goed aan door dubbele solenoids, maar bij single solenoid engines zou ik de Begadi SHP of G&G Green pakken. Niet omdat er geen andere goede buckings zijn, maar deze zijn altijd goede kwaliteit en kan je bijna niet verkeerd monteren. Voor SMP's zou ik beginnen met de G&G green, want die nozzledruk is hard en incosistent waardoor je bb's te ver op de bucking geplaatst worden. De G&G green heeft kleine en lompe ridge die de BB stopt en waar je meer druk geeft door kleinere bucking ridge. Ben je meer ervaren en wil je lange afstanden dan zou ik met AEG en F2 voor de Rhop gaan op barrel met grote en vooral unbridged barrel als de Stalker of Crazy Jet. Met Rhop kun je namelijk andere hardheid bucking met goede lippen kiezen en zachte patch houden (gebruik aub geen Mnub, erasers of sorbo's maar grote CNC nub). Maxx is prima hopup en heeft standaard aantal CNC nubs. Wel goed checken of die perfect aansluiten met je barrel window 😉
@@RCustoms dankjewel, duidelijke informatie
Nice work
faz um video em portugues tambem
Mijn maatje en ik hebben een MTW forged gekocht en wouden gisteren even lekker airsoften maar wij hadden beide het probleem dat hij amper 20 meter schoot en met veel schommelingen. Hoeveel wij ook met de hop speelden er gebeurde niks. Met fps meten zat er max 3 fps verschil per schot in. Enig idee waar het probleem kan liggen?
Doe jij ook aan het onderhoud/upgraden/afstellen van replica's? Zo ja kunnen wij een keer langs komen hiervoor (uiteraard betalen wij hiervoor)
Groetjes Roy en Marcel
Welk type hopup hebben jullie (plastic, oranje Phoenix of zilvere CNC)? Waarschijnlijk zit er een Phoenix hopup in die niet goed is afgesteld. Komt meestal met een ouder type Maple Leaf macaron 70 bucking (baby blauwe kleur) die niet lekker werkt met de Phoenix in ons klimaat. Mijn suggestie is om gelijk de bucking te vervangen voor een G&G green en nub voor een ML omega. Daarna de Phoenix tensioner (schroef bij nozzle opening van opening) losser te draaien. Laat er een BB in vallen en kijk of deze soepel naar binnen valt en je deze zonder al te veel tegendruk met een sateprikker door de buckinglippen heen kan drukken. Schiet die weer zoals het hoort.
Als je er dan niet uitkomt kunnen we altijd een keer afspreken en kijk ik er naar. Geen betaling nodig hoor.
@@RCustoms Super dankjewel voor jouw reactie, wij gaan dit proberen!
I wonder what are my hop up options are with an AK, since there are not many...
I wish you made more in depth content, you clearly have a fkton of wisdom that you could share.
You can always try to file down the barrel window and adjust it to bucking...
Best option for the advanced techs, but something that requires practice to do well
@@RCustoms If the stock barrel has a badly profiled window, you can take a risk ;). Anyway, in the worst case (if the operation fails), you will have to buy a new barrel.
wat is die witte tape die erop zit? tegen wobble?
Dat is van een zachte pleister. Vult laatste beetje speling fantastisch op!
Thank you for speaking the truth about maple leaf lol. Maple leaf product's quality control is garbage, I've had so many crooked barrels and hop up bucking's with irregularities. Their products work well when they do work, but so often than not their barrel windows/cutouts and bucking's are crooked and send BB's curving to the left or right. So much tweaking to get working properly in these cases, definitely belongs in the trash lmao.
Or.. Just get a prowin style gearbox with the hopup built in the gearbox and solve all your allignment problems with the outer barrel. Great video keep it uP!
Huh where to get one
Instructions not clear, no lasers come out only BB’s…. Hahaha I’m just kidding 😃 great video all around!!
I have to disagree on the lapping, as it will get a boost out of nearly everything. Things like a short Crazy Jet, EdGI, ESCW, and maybe Orga will not see much improvement, but over the 2 PDI, 3 Lambda, 1 DaVinci, 1 Airsoft Philosopher, 4 Angel Custom, many homemade fat barrels, and many many mystery and stock barrels I have seen medium to world shattering improvement.
Maybe not world shattering, but I have gone to groups maybe 1/4 the size of normal from a shitty Cyma barrel by just lapping it.
The arm thing is definitely good, I am a big fan of super glue, aluminum tape, and teflon tape for shimming arms and nubs, it is amazing that companies will sell a chamber for $60, like the TAC41 or new Action Army VSR one, with a loose nub or arm in a great CNC body. The contact patch thing is good too, I have been experimenting with BB placement and have found that on Maple Leaf buckings that it's best to have the center point of the BB to be .5-1mm onto the patch and held there, which gives the most accuracy compared to any more or any less. As for the nub thing, I have also found that bonded nubs are the best, and have actually "invented" my own nub if you would like to take a look.
www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/ss-arm-ss-nub-tutorial.65567/
General shimming can do a lot to a gun, especially if you are working on a budget or are dealing with a gun with no upgrade chamber, or the upgrade chambers around suck. I recently made my friend's AX-15 much better with just some super glue, plastic sheet, teflon tape, and aluminum tape in about the course of 45 minutes. After lapping and an R-hop along with my homemade nub, the gun was as good as about anything else I've used that shoots .28g.
PDI and DaVinci are my current favorite though, as they do not need much lapping to max out performance, and I trust their straightness more than EdGi or anybody else.
I am excited to try the new ESCW 5.98 stainless though, I hope it won't benefit even a bit from lapping.
Agree that if done properly you do see some benefit of lapping. Still dont know if that is because it removes friction or equalizes tollerance of the barrel and inside of the window, but definitly keeps the barrel clean much longer. It unfortunatly takes much time and needs to be done very even with a dense perfectly size sponge before you see results. Most people just end up giving their barrel a good clean instead of really lapping the thing 😜 worst case a clean barrel still helps you down range 😉
The nub from your post creates a perfectly shaped and sized nub that matches the bucking shape and window size. Very clever.
My man. Isn't Davinci awesome? I just love mine. The extra wide barrel window, the almost perfect tolerance and exclusivity of them. Can't be beat by anyone if you ask me.
Is there anything groups for Hpa m4s? I have been learning to upgrade my barrel setups and I would love any help possible for recommendations on upgrade parts you’re post on shimming and making your own nubs was very helpful thank you
@@Mountain_Armory there's basically just Facebook and ASF, but only really FB is active. Hmu on ASF, it has a messaging function that's not too hard to use
@@Mountain_Armory Basically just FB and the sniper forum, but FB is too hard to search/keep track of for me so I don't use it often.
Hmu on the sniper forum and I should be able to help you out, but there's also some other guys on there that are pretty knowledgeable
Zo wat een Nederlands accent 😂
Tja, je krijgt er ook geen video editting bij. Gewoon lekker plat en informatief zonder opgepoetste influencershit.
Pretty amazing video. Will surely use this knowledge to tune my mtw and SI hopup
hey man anychance i can run some stuff past you been having afew issues regarding the mtw do you have a discord?
I don't have a discord but you can try on on FB. I used to be on MTW FB page a lot, but switch back to my love for recoil. PM on FB and I will try to help out
@@RCustoms whats your fb brother i also love the feeling of recoil i own a v1 tipmann and v2 tipmann and a Daytona ak along with my mtw
@@RCustoms hey man havent been able to find you on fb sadly do you do tech work and were are you located brother more than happy to flick ya a email