My first time to your channel. Nice video and thank you for taking the time to create it. Some of the comments are ridiculous and why I won't create a channel. Listen folks, yes the Lucid kit is expensive, it's not mandatory that you buy it. He was simply showing how it's done and how to use it. Steel is expensive these days and Lucid needs to make a profit. I personally wouldn't spend that much for it, but I definitely wouldn't imply someone was a fool for it. I simply have the scrap laying around and the tools to make my own. There are plenty of videos out there with different homemade designs.
Thank you! If you watch any of this channel you will quickly find we don't take any of this too seriously. Nor do we ever beg anyone to do anything with this channel or its content lol. That being said, one of the reasons I went with the Lucid kit is that we planned on mounting up a lot of high end nice wheels with it and big stuff like 18 to 22 x 10 inch stuff. The lucid kit is without a doubt the most rigid setup out there that minimized flex at the duckhead. Most if not all of the homemade stuff or super cheap 100 dollar duckhead kits have a lot of flex at the duckhead which translates into a lot of contact with the wheel. If you are mounting steelies or crap you don't care about it absolutely doesn't matter. I also took a moment of pride in supporting a USA small business instead of some china company. China gets enough of my money as it is.
@PNW_Car_Mods understood and that is the right attitude as far as these comments. I pretty much live my life that way, but sometimes people annoy me. The Lucid kit is nice no doubt about it. No justification needed. Made in the USA is an added bonus. I'm a gear head, fabricator, DIY type of person, so I know and appreciate the effort people like you put into this platform. Thank you and I'm going to subscribe.
lol. Use a longer ratchet or a breaker bar to break loose the drain plug. But you can always use a hammer wrench, Milwaukee if you got the money or Hercules hammer wrench is now going heads up at a lower price point.
Interesting idea with the welded nut on top of the post. Here's an idea to expand on it. You can attach a torque multiplier to the nut. The arm of the torque multiplier can then be used to push/ rotate the horizontal arm. Then you need to find a way of mounting a drill motor to the torque multiplier, along with a foot pedal for controlling the motor. This would give you a powered tire changer and the ability to free up your hands.
You could make your own custom spacer, that will go between the machine and the rim. depending on the spacing between the tire changer and the cone, with hole saws you could use either a 1"x6"-8" or a 2"x6"-8". To prevent possible slippage or scratches to rims/wheels. You can glue a piece of rubber to your spacer block.
@36:35 put a handle on the lower portion of that pin - wood or plastic or even a garden hose - that'll make it bottom heavy and it'll stay more vertical. Drill a correct sized hole down the middle of a short piece of dowel or something similar and drive it onto the lower portion. Use a neodynium magnet to hold the handle of the bead breaker up in place.
I ended up hose clamping a 1lb lead ingot on the pin. GAME CHANGER. so much easier to get a wheel on and off of that pin lol. I do need to find one of those magnets. I'm going shopping now! Thanks Gerry.
That short angle iron welded on the HF that might be there to hole the tire while breaking the bead. Cut it off. It just scratches aluminum rims. It's not needed.
I've heard this before! Definitely need to just get rid of it. I am going to be dismounting and mounting a set of 20x10s of my SRT Grand Cherokee soon so that should be a fantastic test of the limits of this thing.
I definitely need to try this! that being said I've been using a bungee cord with good success. You just have to take it off when you are done with the bead breaking process.
If you would have used tire paste, you wouldn't even need the duckbill. I used a Harbor Freight manual tire changer & used tire paste. I installed the tire on in 2 minutes. It couldn't get easier than that. So I don't understand why people use the duck bill if they use a bead clamp, a dewalt wood clamp to hold the tire from spinning, and the HF supplied black bar.
If you want to turn it into a race, I can put that style tire on a steel wheel in 30 seconds with no tire machine and just two tire levers using soap. When you are working with steel wheels and big floppy tires no tire machine is needed. Same with aluminum if you don't mind the potential of a few scuffs. Once you start getting into low profile stuff things change though.
Do I look like a joke to you? WTF? People that need links in a description on something that can EASILY be searched are helpless and I have no use for you.
@@PNW_Car_Mods The vast majority of people on TH-cam who make a video about a specific product do the cordial thing of including a link to said product and you know this. I obviously looked it up. And you must have a use for me or you wouldn't be making videos in hopes of views. Thumbs down pal.
@@oldowl4290 Thumb down me all you want. People that know me know I don't do youtube for any kind of gain. Nobody is holding a gun to your head. You didn't have to watch. I don't promote this channel, I don't beg people to watch, I don't beg people to subscribe, I don't beg people to share, and I don't care if you like it or not. Just do it for the fun of it.
@@abrahamchapa6862 so it is 1/8th inch wall 2x2 telescoping tubing that is around 11.5 inches long. The other piece that holds the duck head tube that does the telescoping is 2 3/4 inch long.
I recently foolishly bought the Harbor Freight tire changer, and realized that by the time I bought/built the "Mod" mechanism, I would be better off just buying a used beater professional tire changer. There is no reason Harbor Freight couldn't have included the functionality of the common modifications (such as the Lucid) for a reasonable price. Nice video, but this approach is a total waste of time and money.
I agree up and to a point. before bidenonomics went full ape shit I was going to buy the mayflower combo and start doing some side work with it for fun. But the more I procrastinated the more the prices rose. Then after pondering it even more I just don't have logical space to put a modern tire machine. I can find space for a balancer but not both. Used commercial machines tend to go for 800-1200 here. I've got 400 or so wrapped up into this setup. I'm looking forward to playing around with it some more on tires that most wouldn't tackle with it. 18s 19s 20s and lower profiles like 35 series. We'll see how it goes. If I don't like it I know I can sell it for a small loss and move on.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Makes sense, and every dollar counts. I too am having to make tough choices thanks to the predictable results of mind boggling gov spending, abusive regulatory environment and emphasis on disassociation of merit and opportunity.
@@petepeterson5337 What is your experience with the Pittsburg manual tire changer? For me it was waaaay to easy to change a tire to the point where I wondered why people buy a lucid adapter. The HF tire changer is so easy to change a tire with.
My first time to your channel. Nice video and thank you for taking the time to create it. Some of the comments are ridiculous and why I won't create a channel.
Listen folks, yes the Lucid kit is expensive, it's not mandatory that you buy it. He was simply showing how it's done and how to use it. Steel is expensive these days and Lucid needs to make a profit. I personally wouldn't spend that much for it, but I definitely wouldn't imply someone was a fool for it. I simply have the scrap laying around and the tools to make my own. There are plenty of videos out there with different homemade designs.
Thank you! If you watch any of this channel you will quickly find we don't take any of this too seriously. Nor do we ever beg anyone to do anything with this channel or its content lol. That being said, one of the reasons I went with the Lucid kit is that we planned on mounting up a lot of high end nice wheels with it and big stuff like 18 to 22 x 10 inch stuff. The lucid kit is without a doubt the most rigid setup out there that minimized flex at the duckhead. Most if not all of the homemade stuff or super cheap 100 dollar duckhead kits have a lot of flex at the duckhead which translates into a lot of contact with the wheel. If you are mounting steelies or crap you don't care about it absolutely doesn't matter. I also took a moment of pride in supporting a USA small business instead of some china company. China gets enough of my money as it is.
@PNW_Car_Mods understood and that is the right attitude as far as these comments. I pretty much live my life that way, but sometimes people annoy me.
The Lucid kit is nice no doubt about it. No justification needed. Made in the USA is an added bonus.
I'm a gear head, fabricator, DIY type of person, so I know and appreciate the effort people like you put into this platform. Thank you and I'm going to subscribe.
Can't get my drain plug loose and you're doing this kinda bs! Love watching the vids, you're a very talented dude Black.
Much appreciated kind sir!
lol. Use a longer ratchet or a breaker bar to break loose the drain plug. But you can always use a hammer wrench, Milwaukee if you got the money or Hercules hammer wrench is now going heads up at a lower price point.
Glad to see the professional still has time to help the old man out sometimes 🤣
Yeah that is for sure.
Interesting idea with the welded nut on top of the post. Here's an idea to expand on it. You can attach a torque multiplier to the nut. The arm of the torque multiplier can then be used to push/ rotate the horizontal arm. Then you need to find a way of mounting a drill motor to the torque multiplier, along with a foot pedal for controlling the motor. This would give you a powered tire changer and the ability to free up your hands.
I'm pretty sure somebody has successfully done this. Could be a fun project to try some day.
You could make your own custom spacer, that will go between the machine and the rim. depending on the spacing between the tire changer and the cone, with hole saws you could use either a 1"x6"-8" or a 2"x6"-8". To prevent possible slippage or scratches to rims/wheels. You can glue a piece of rubber to your spacer block.
Yup, the possibilities are almost endless.
@36:35 put a handle on the lower portion of that pin - wood or plastic or even a garden hose - that'll make it bottom heavy and it'll stay more vertical. Drill a correct sized hole down the middle of a short piece of dowel or something similar and drive it onto the lower portion.
Use a neodynium magnet to hold the handle of the bead breaker up in place.
I ended up hose clamping a 1lb lead ingot on the pin. GAME CHANGER. so much easier to get a wheel on and off of that pin lol. I do need to find one of those magnets. I'm going shopping now! Thanks Gerry.
It got the tire off and back on, so it’s absolute grade A ! I wish I had room for enough vehicles to make use and of such a device 😅
We got some more challenging jobs to do with this thing BAT! Should make for much better entertainment haha.
That short angle iron welded on the HF that might be there to hole the tire while breaking the bead. Cut it off. It just scratches aluminum rims. It's not needed.
I've heard this before! Definitely need to just get rid of it. I am going to be dismounting and mounting a set of 20x10s of my SRT Grand Cherokee soon so that should be a fantastic test of the limits of this thing.
👍👏
Thanks for checking it out!
Use a magnet to hold bead breaker up
I definitely need to try this! that being said I've been using a bungee cord with good success. You just have to take it off when you are done with the bead breaking process.
If you would have used tire paste, you wouldn't even need the duckbill. I used a Harbor Freight manual tire changer & used tire paste. I installed the tire on in 2 minutes. It couldn't get easier than that. So I don't understand why people use the duck bill if they use a bead clamp, a dewalt wood clamp to hold the tire from spinning, and the HF supplied black bar.
If you want to turn it into a race, I can put that style tire on a steel wheel in 30 seconds with no tire machine and just two tire levers using soap. When you are working with steel wheels and big floppy tires no tire machine is needed. Same with aluminum if you don't mind the potential of a few scuffs. Once you start getting into low profile stuff things change though.
Would be great if you included the product link in the description. Maybe you didn't because their DIY weld up kit is $324.00. That’s hilarious.
Do I look like a joke to you? WTF? People that need links in a description on something that can EASILY be searched are helpless and I have no use for you.
@@PNW_Car_Mods The vast majority of people on TH-cam who make a video about a specific product do the cordial thing of including a link to said product and you know this. I obviously looked it up. And you must have a use for me or you wouldn't be making videos in hopes of views. Thumbs down pal.
@@oldowl4290 Thumb down me all you want. People that know me know I don't do youtube for any kind of gain. Nobody is holding a gun to your head. You didn't have to watch. I don't promote this channel, I don't beg people to watch, I don't beg people to subscribe, I don't beg people to share, and I don't care if you like it or not. Just do it for the fun of it.
what are the measurements for the adapter?
Which parts?
The lucid adapter
the 2 square tubes
@@abrahamchapa6862 so it is 1/8th inch wall 2x2 telescoping tubing that is around 11.5 inches long. The other piece that holds the duck head tube that does the telescoping is 2 3/4 inch long.
I recently foolishly bought the Harbor Freight tire changer, and realized that by the time I bought/built the "Mod" mechanism, I would be better off just buying a used beater professional tire changer.
There is no reason Harbor Freight couldn't have included the functionality of the common modifications (such as the Lucid) for a reasonable price.
Nice video, but this approach is a total waste of time and money.
I agree up and to a point. before bidenonomics went full ape shit I was going to buy the mayflower combo and start doing some side work with it for fun. But the more I procrastinated the more the prices rose. Then after pondering it even more I just don't have logical space to put a modern tire machine. I can find space for a balancer but not both. Used commercial machines tend to go for 800-1200 here. I've got 400 or so wrapped up into this setup. I'm looking forward to playing around with it some more on tires that most wouldn't tackle with it. 18s 19s 20s and lower profiles like 35 series. We'll see how it goes. If I don't like it I know I can sell it for a small loss and move on.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Makes sense, and every dollar counts. I too am having to make tough choices thanks to the predictable results of mind boggling gov spending, abusive regulatory environment and emphasis on disassociation of merit and opportunity.
@@petepeterson5337 What is your experience with the Pittsburg manual tire changer? For me it was waaaay to easy to change a tire to the point where I wondered why people buy a lucid adapter. The HF tire changer is so easy to change a tire with.