It is so awesome to see a contractor do the prep work into the job that makes the finish look like it should! I see so many guys on TH-cam spray the finish without caulking and fixing the imperfections like holes cracks and water damage. Great job sir. You give your customers the job that their paying for.
You would be surprised how many people are against caulking joints, cracks etc. I guess you just have to make the mistake NOT to caulk, have water damage and warp mdf, wood etc and very unhappy client to call you to understand this some act of professionalism. I simply do what is best given the condition and expectations of my clients. Every client is unique and I do what they pay me to do but I also educate them when that is needed it. Some clients actually know what they want and they get their way and I am totally fine with that. Cheers happy holidays
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I understand I retired last year. I had a Residential and Commercial Paint business for 24 years. I miss it but glad to be enjoying time with my wife and getting yo travel. Other than the pandemic things is good. I wish you the best have a great day.
Wow I shoot cabinets exactly same process same sprayer same methods. Only difference is I have a drying rack that I stack the doors on to dry. For touch ups I have a local store that will fill spray cans with lacquer I provide. Excellent job. Lacquer is the best choice by far as you know. I even label the doors like you do. I tape off the styles exactly same as you. If I have client who will complain about smell like in apartment units I use waterbase lacquer. I prefer the Nitro. The waterbase can sometimes cause an amber color in spots. Bondo and caulk same way. I am going to switch to a fresh air system. What people should know is painting cabinets is less expensive but doesnt hold up or look as smooth. Lacquer is the way to a glass like showroom finish. After about 3 weeks the lacquer is cured and becomes pretty much bullet proof and looks great for years. Great video.
Seems we were taught the right way of doing things and that is a great feeling. I would use racks but it's simply less equipment to carry around and less moving, I simply lay out ladders and spray all in one shoot....lacquer is super easy to fix if you mess up...paint is a slow process and finishes are tough to get unless you have a shop etc...cheers keep up the quality work.
When I used to do cabinet doors I built a spray stand with 2x4s and a lazy Suzan on top. This way I could remain in one position at a comfortable height and simply rotate the door as I sprayed it. I used the rubber padding that is made for area rugs to keep them from slipping attached to the plywood on the lazy Suzan with some hot melt glue. This protected the door as well as prevented it from slipping..
I have used a similar method, only issues is the moving of every single piece to spray adds up a lot of time, laying them like you see on video is way faster and results are similar. Its great to know that you used another system than mine as it also helps prevent back pain/issues from the bending over too much....cheers...
Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results.
Definitely did a superb work on the prep and that is Key to a long lasting product. Lots of work and I am sure you appreciate the fact that you did it all yourselves. Cheers!!
Dios mío finally another professional painter on TH-cam. Greetings. Nice job. I do mostly lacquer in high end homes, trim doors etc. You should try a kremlin sprayer sometime. They are amazing. Fast and excellent finish. Cheers. Richard Paining in British Columbia
I am totally with you on this however every client gets what they like and I simply have to deliver what they want. Customer is always right. Right? Lol 😆 I get your point though.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 your doing right to caulk openings, your doors arent new, they have dried over a long time for wood shrinkage Just be sure to pump that caulk deep enough into cracks, caus caulk shrinks alot when dry. Using the dap with silicone added will get you expansion room to move , and it doesnt expand and contract enough to worry about it. I’ve come back 20 years later and my caulk is in great shape. I know how some high end factory finish pre finished cabinet door sometimes have the panels without caulk. It isnt always best for appearance to leave it open on older cabinet doors. Some clear ,natural finish doors may already have half the crack filled previously anyway
I paint cabinets and use the Renner 2K waterborne polyurethane top coats. I always caulk. I use a high-grade, very flexible caulking and I have NEVER had a problem. Roy have you actually had problems with caulk or are you just passing on what is considered standard procedure?
Awesome job guys! You make it look so easy (and I know it's not). I am doing a kitchen remodel now and you just gave me the motivation to at least try this myself. Much appreciated!!!
I use a sealer for the wood - anything really, then Tractor Implement Paint as a base coat and whatever color and material on top of that after a light sanding. Tractor implement paint is crazy tough and hard - no cracking or peeling it sticks like crazy.
have you tried graco fflp tips, at half the fluid pressure? less high pressure tips spits at trigger open , trigger closed. They can tint your lacquer primer close to your darker finish color Make sure if your old clear finish is well sanded, because a fast dry lacquer wont bite as deep as a slower dry primer reason : if the cabinet get bumped with a slightly blunt object, it can chip the more brittle lacquer primer off easily. No one knows this until its too late, because this was not bare wood for a quick dry lacquer to absorb into to grab deeper. It usually happens like when a quick dry Zinzer is applied over a harder older lacquer finish being your base and not well sanded. get 2 5 gal buckets, one long scaffolding wood planks, set your cabinet doors on top of small cut wood pieces to elevate them. This elevates your doors higher off the floor eliminating overspray or kicking up dust off the floor into your sprayed doors. Also flooding so much paint on your ladder and tarps. Also get red rosin paper to put on floor, save your tarps from a dust mess from loaded up tarps I spray alot of cabinet doors on my 16 ft aluminum scaffolding plank. I wrap each small wood pieces to place under cabinet doors to elevate them with the blue paper towels so there is a soft surface each newly dried face wont get the wood to press into it.
Good info on the blue paper towels... i've gotten to the point where I prefer to spray and dry horizontally but the wood press is always an issue. will try to use it on my painter's rack as well, cutting them into small strips and wrapping them around the bars. As for lacquer, I'm not sure he was using lacquer (in white???).
Funny things is I always used water based and oil base products for cabinets and never liked lacquer or conversion vanishes due to high risks and smells but the finishes are just incredibly smooth and durable. Can't go wrong with urethane paint now adays and its also durable. A few downfalls to it but still a very good choice.
I just did my kitchen in Aristoshield from Dunn-Edwards, an alkyd paint. I have some more cabinetry to build in other rooms, and was considering lacquer for the fast recoat times. As a hobbyist, and not a professional, is that a terrible idea?
Great comment and thank you. Some people don't take pride for whatever reason, we take pride because we like what we do and we know how to do it. Some people know how to do things but are not happy doing them...and some think they know until they try and realize its harder than what we make it seem. Any one can do it, just have to take step at a time, patience and the end results are way better, best of it all YOU DID IT YOURSELF. 🥂
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 great vid. I'm building our new kitchen and called a sherwin williams commercial finishings store today. Was very disappointed in the persons attitude. Stressed more that you have to spray it in a spray booth at a shop with zero exceptions. I recently upgraded my hvlp setup to a fuji q5. Looking forward to spraying precat lacquer but will go with Benjamin Moore if a store is closer than sherwin.
@@LongIslandHobbyist sorry about that experience, some time it's simply best to brush it off and move on. From my experience, people at many paint stores or directly dealing with multiple customers throughout the day, get a bit edgy and some people simply don't have social skills as to accommodate each customer. I can advise to use regular but better if using precat as it toughest, you don't need a spray booth, but make sure you dust off and have zero wind flowing from fans or from windows and doors being open. You do need ventilation, keep in mind this stuff is very explosive, no smoking, no heat guns or anything that can set it off. Benjamin Moore sells Mohawk lacquers as well, they do here in CA, they have great Lacquer products...good luck and above all...have fun doing it....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thanks for the advice. Are you using regular water based lacquer in the video? I'm fine with using that as well. I'm just new to the lacquer scene.
I live in Alabama and we use a similar product down here it’s called kem aqua plus. (Sherwin Williams)Sherwood kem Aqua plus, water based pigmented or clear laquer. Primer- Sherwood kem Aqua plus surfacer E64 W 520 (product number) Top coat- Sherwood kem Aqua plus M64 W 522 (product number)
I'm familiar the Aqua plus line up. Its good stuff as well specially when you have a lot of cabinets and the drying time doesn't need to be fast. I will have to try doing a lacquer clear top coat and see if it holds up since its a water borne product.
Yea we like it because we get picky customers that complain about the smell sometimes, this is less harsh. Drytime is not that bad about 30-40 mins and fully cured in 24 hrs. Just another option to keep in the bag. Awesome video love your Titan setup, I got to get one of those. Keep up the great work and great videos.
I personally would not recommend. Caulking those cabinets. They were made like that. So the wood can shrink and expand with the weather if you seal that line I think It is possibly it will crack down the middle panel. When weather changes because the wood will try to move And since it’s sealed it will split
If you dont caulk water will seep through cracks and brake down the top coat over time. Caulking expands and contracts with wood, its the perfect solution for cabinets, specially kitchen cabinets.
@@Stevesbe nothing lasts forever. But like the other gentleman said, you just inform the clients and let them choose, no right way "per say"....I personally caulk all cracks to avoid moisture or any liquids getting into cracks and avoid failure.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Dapp 33 window glazing . You can color match it and use it on clear and stained finishes also. Takes a little more time but the quality of workmanship is well worth it takes your cabinets from contractor quality to museum quality. The trick is a quarter inch towel sharpened in a pencil sharpener with the tip upturned & V'ed . Pushes the putty right into the joint cleans everything up nice and pretty usually between first and second seal.
Yes I do used them but that one project the new cartridges had not arrived and it was a must do with what you have deal. Thanks for that note/tip...cheers
Nice technique man. I’m a painter also. Hey you should try the kremlin sprayers. They are excellent. I spray all trim and doors in high end new houses with lacquer now. It has raised me a cut above the crowd. The kremlin and excite gun make me look good and as you know lacquer is cheaper and easier to work with.
Thanks for suggestion on that Kremlin, It works great I personally have not used it much, I really like the titan, easy cleaning and setup and hook up a few 25ft lines and it keeps pressure just right. I am sure you do great work and even better if lacquering all the doors and trim, I do it sometimes too just not too crazy about it since it does wear on the body/health in the long run. You must wear all the protection gear else its one thing for the other. Either way I like painting and seeing my finished products, my clients sometimes are speechless....as I am sure same happens on your end...cheers...keep painting...
@@jcresmond1653 we used a wornout/dead 220. It doesn't deep scratch and does leave the surface smooth with all surfaces ready to take in whatever you throw at it.
Great job I spray cabinets as well I use a lacquer paint from WOODFINISHERSDEPOT and put a clear coat in top after paint is applied every thing was great I just advice got work to look better after putting undercoater check all the wood with spackling for any damage on them
Thanks for that tip, we do that prior to primer coating but going over it once more doesn't hurt a thing. Always keep on learning something new.... cheers
@@miketibbs6149 only for paint, correct. There are a bunch of other things needing repair or change, and it adds up quickly! Also, babysitting laborers isn’t my vibe ...
I should add, I’m debating between a Titan impact 440 and this sprayer. I spray a lot of cabinetry, but also need the versatility of being able to spray interiors and exteriors occasionally
If I were you, I'd buy the ONE I would use the most, have that pay for other . I like to keep them separate as they will last longer without clogging issues....but only you know your necessary equipment.
looks great..a local rep recommened he water based laquer but said i didnt need an undercoat....all white cabinets yellowed.....old stain bleeding through..shoulda known better and ran an undercoat like this but you wanna believe the sherwin reps hahaha
That's a bummer, he should have recommended an undercoater but maybe a miscommunication issue there with rep. I'm sure he meant the aqua Is a non yellowing but one must always use and undercoat just to be on the safe/sure side of things....
Still a lot of sheen on these doors before spraying. Always been the standard to scuff first. Even if it’s just a 3m gold scotchbright pad. Sometimes called giving it a tooth.
Good evening! I just found your channel and you guys do really nice work. I’m just wishing the name of your company was David’s Gulf Coast Painting because I definitely be paying you a visit. I bought a 19ft Motorhome a and looking to do a makeover on the cabinets. I actually have a paint sprayer but to be honest... I don’t have the confidence to use it. 🤦🏻♀️. I’ve even thought about taking the doors to my local auto paint shop!! Technically they’re for an auto. Right?!? Lol. I’m now doing research to see if there’s a low sheen lacquer out there on the market.
there are a few sheens you can pick from depending on where you go and what product is being used. There are Matte, low sheen/satin, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss...
Lacquer does dry fast but comes with the cost of a wicked odor and tougher cleanup. Home owners who want to do this but don't have the equipment can try brushing on sherwin williams acrylic/alkyd paint. Dry time is reasonable, odor is ok, and it levels well.
What special equipment other than a sprayer? It seems like this would be much faster to do and easier to clean up rather than cleaning brushes and pans. I was going to go that route but watching this video has me thinking this would make more sense.
@@susantaulli730 what i meant by equipment was a decent sprayer, which is a cost, the space to do it, some kind of rack (they used a ladder), rosin paper and tape, etc. Set up and clean up is timely for that. You can clean a brush out in minutes when you know how to. Acrylic alkyd paint cleans with water. Lacquer paint cleans with lacquer thinner (another cost) and you have to dispose of that somewhere. You need a proper mask/ventilator if you want to avoid fumes and open space that is dust free. Lacquer is a nicer finish if you can pull that all off. But it takes experience to do that well. They make it look easy due to hundreds of hours of practice as painters (I know as I have been one myself for 35 years). Not saying people can't so I'm not trying to discourage. Let me just say this- after all the years of painting i have done, i usually brush finish on cabinets still. And customers are very pleased
To set the record straight. What does "better" mean to you? Faster? Lacquers aren't meant to be applied like latex paint. An Air gun (Like a SATA or Tekna ProLite) or HVLP gives the absolute finest finish with finest control. When I first saw this video I thought it was from 20+ years ago lol. I started spraying lacquers 43 years ago and that was the way to create a custom show paint job (30 coats of hand rubbed lacquer). I used PPG and DuPont lacquers & Acrylic Urethanes on cars (restored 23) and on furniture (cabinet and furniture maker in business over 4 decades). Lacquers took away business from oils & shellac (finish of choice for 1000s of years) all in the name of productivity. Lacquer is definitely a "hard" finish, however that's relative. Today lacquer would be considered a low-mid range finish. IF the goal is the ultimate in durability and even aesthetics (certain times) then lacquer won't be on your radar screen. Conversion varnish or automotive acrylic urethane, those are super hard. I started using automotive finishes on my wood projects 40 years ago and is mostly what I use because of how durable it is. We used to use DuPont Imron for frames and suspension pieces, today, powder coating is the ultimate finish. However, I still use shellac, tung oil (pure), lacquer, polyurethane, wiping varnish, wax finish, etc. It simply depends on what the project is. Would I paint kitchen cabinets with lacquer? NO, but I don't do work in that end of the market; we don't use caulking either. Obviously the set up used here is not very clean and the end result was apparently just to clean it up a little. Lots of damage to the doors not repaired, caulking and lacquer painting with airless on ladders on the floor tells me what the budget is. Some asked "Why use lacquer? IF that's the budget, why not use lacquer? I realize it takes a lot more skill, hanging the fronts up and spraying all faces and edges at once yields the very best overall finish most efficiently. It does seem contrary to commonsense, lay a board flat and the finish smooths out much much better, however, it's about achieving perfect balance of amount of finish without sags/runs while being flat. There are always vertical surfaces on cars or furniture/cabinetry and they look just as good as the pieces painted flat. Hang the doors and develop great painting techniques. Gaining full control of your spray equipment does take time. Lots of muscle memory involved with perfect technique (NOT achieved in this particular video). There is never a one size fits all. Lots of misinformation out there. I own and use a variety of equipment for applying paint, including Binks (Models 7 & 18 & 2001) Devilbiss Tekna ProLite, Graco UltraMax (Cordless), Titan ED665 Plus, and Fuji Platinum Q5 T70 and they all have their use. I would NEVER use the Titan to spray a car, furniture or cabinetry. That doesn't mean an acceptable finish can't be completed with it, just that for the level of finish I desire it's much easier to achieve with either air or HVLP. There's only one downside to true HVLP, that's cost. My Fuji system with everything is close to $2,000.00, about 3x the cost of the Titan. I get asked all the time, which is better, to that I ask, "What are you planning on doing? The Titan ED665 Plus can't compete with the Binks,Tekna or Fuji for fine finishing, and they can't compete (Binks, Tekna won't) with the Titan when applying Latex paint on the inside or outside of a house. If you want a super smooth finish straight from the gun with very limited overspray, HVLP is the only way to go. They are expensive at the Stage 4 & Stage 5 levels, but I find over time it's less expensive if you spend more.
Yeah I agree with you I've been spraying Cabinetry for over 15 years now I'm only using binks guns and pressure pots system and I use Lacquer Base-Coat and top coat of water-based Lacquer it gives it a smooth finish that no other spray system can deliver.
@@K1llum1nati imagine that, doing it all wrong and banking on it, I guess not so wrong after all. Wise guy!! In all seriousness, Mr. ALAN points out technique and where to use certain spray systems. I appreciate criticism as it makes me want to correct and always be a better finisher, he is also an absolute pro at his comments. Well versed and not a bully like many people out there in www.
Lacquer is not a hard finish. It is soft. It also yellows quickly. Finishers use it because it is easy to sand. It is not a good finish to use if you want really good cabinets. If you are going to have somebody spray your cabinets , have them use a water white conversion varnish.
Keith, everyone's comments are welcome, we can disagree here and there. Lacquer is a hard finish, not sure why you would say they are soft. Older lacquers did yellow over the years but is wasn't as noticeable, oil base clears and paints yellow over the years as well but not as noticeable for 5+ years. By then many people change colors and call for maintenance. Not sure what lacquers you are referring to be soft, manufacturers and data sheets state they are hard finishes. Lacquer is easy to sand but that is not why people like it, there are many more reasons and easy-to-sand is definitely not a high priority. Again, all comments are welcome and we can agree to disagree. Cheers
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I'm saying they are soft because I worked in the coatings industry for 20+ years both as a finisher myself and I worked for companies who sold coatings.
@@keithwinnett7747 I sprayed coatings just about the same time and still disagree. Conversion varnishes are great too and hard but I still go lacquer any day. I will bring up this with sales reps and check of their products. Just for my info. Thanks
Those high pressure hoses can be a pain. Always find something to tangle on. You could jump out of an airplane with just your spray gun and 200 feet of high pressure hose and be safe. I guarantee you it get hung on something before you hit the ground.......
Lol funny guy...just remember that the actual cabinets inside the house need to sprayed out, hose needs to be able to reach them without moving sprayer more than once....I see some people move sprayer multiple times because they have short hoses and its simply an overkill....milking it basically. We get in and out.
I want to spray lacquer on my cabinet doors outside but what do I do about the actual cabinet that is inside my house? Can I roller/brush that part? I'm too nervous to spray inside of my house.
Amy, I don't recommend rolling or brushing lacquer as it dries fast and not enough time for rolling, unless you are mighty fast. For inside the house, mask around the cabinets with paper and tape double layers. Make sure your windows and doors are open for ventilation, and maybe have a fan turned ON blowing AWAY from spray area, not too close to the actual spray zone. It's really not that hard but if you take these simple steps then you will be just fine. Expect dust so if you have a lot of inside spray to do then make spray booth and take short break as to not build up too many vapors inside the booth. If you have never used lacquer, then I highly recommend hiring a professional and check references, some painters are not lacquer/fine coating finishers. Above all have fun doing it!!
You rotate your wrist too much when you‘re spraying. The spray gun is closest to the material at the center when your arm is straight and as you swing out in either direction (from center) the spray point is further away causing overspray.
Sorry I know theres 600+ comments, tried to search thru them to answers my questions but… What type of sprayer did you use? Oil based primer or lacquer? What type of topcoat…Sherwin? Thanks! Great work!
I am using the Titan ED655 plus and using Lacquer undercoater and top coat from Gemini..I use various Lacquer brands not too sure whichever one I used on this particular vid
I hired “professionals” to do my cabinets and omg 😳 they ruined them. They didn’t caulk them they used rollers for both painting and priming and when they applied the primer they left the doors still on the cabinets and missed a lot of spots . Then they took the doors down for the paint and did them outside in the lawn with a drape underneath but the final result came back gritty, uneven, and with pieces of grass 😭 the owner had promised us he only trusted a few of his guys with the cabinets and that they had over 25 years experience. Next thing you know two 19-20 year olds show up to do the work and now I’m considering just buying new cabinets. I think I would’ve done a better job myself.
It's a bummer to read your cabinet project went south. I hope you withheld payment. Sounds to me like these "pros" were those what I call "clowns" who simply buy some whites and now they feel pro painters. I wound take all cabinets off, sand down to smooth finish with a 220 sand paper. Spray all areas and spray both, primer and the top coat. Sand between coats. It's a lot of work, people don't see the amount of detail that goes into the painting of any cabinet. If done right, expect to pay above average as it's quality work. Next time please ask for references, vet them out. Good luck
Fortunately they forgot to ask us for our deposit at the time of the contract signing and we haven’t paid. Thank you so much for the tip 🙏🏼 my husband and I are going to try it out ourselves with one of the smaller cabinet doors if we feel we can’t do it we will contract someone else. The company we had hired had 4.9 stars in reviews out of 200 people which is why we were shocked. And we weren’t going to pay cheap either we were going to pay $4,700 for the job which was why we thought it was going to come out great but unfortunately it was a disaster and they got it on our brand new appliances 😫. But thank you once again for the tip. 😊
I used Sherwin Williams undercoater....guess u can think of it as a primer. Then the lacquer top coat. Sanded between coats as needed. No sanding after last coat.
I am currently prepping original cabinets from our 1947 home. My question is why are you choosing lacquer instead of latex paint, or was the lacquer just the primer coat? I am planning to prime before painting, but now I wonder if I should be considering lacquer instead of latex primer?
Evan, I am in the Business for two reasons. First, because I truly enjoy what I do. Two, to make money. That being said, sometimes, we have very small jobs and the timing simply works better to lacquer coat instead of painting with oil or water base paints. Budget also plays a role in what products I use and then the type of finish. Some clients have properties as rentals and some have custom made homes, I am sure you get the point by now. Now to your cabinets: If I were you, I would look at the cabinets and see if they have been stained or varnished in the past (my guess is yes) if that is the case this is what I would recommend you to do: sand down a bit as to open up pores on the current surfaces, TSP or degreaser clean all surfaces, primer coat with oil base cover stain primer or Shellac primer. Then you can lightly sand again with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper (worn out is best as it doesn't burn the edges and it knocks down any raised grain or overspray). I would recommend an Alkyd- water base/borne from Home depot Berh, Sherwin williams Pro-Industrial or Emerald, Alkyd Emulsion from Vista paints or Aristo-shield from Dunn Edwards. I am not sure where you are located but you can always call different paint stores and ask for Urethane or Alkyd paints for cabinets. I recommend that type of paint since its a water base/clean up, great results and easy to use. Hard part of all is the prep, once prep is done its really a fun process to see the changes and best part is that you did it your self and you did it the "right" way.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 Thank you so much for taking time to reply. I have thought of Alkyd for this project, so it's good to hear that from a professional. The thing with this house is that nothing was ever done over the last 70+ years except additional slapped on coats of paint with no prep apparently. I'm scraping as many layers off as I can then will thoroughly sand and prime. Lots of work, but they're actually WOOD cabs and we could never afford to replace them with similar quality. Thank you again for the tips; we usually use Sherwin Williams paints.
Can you use lacquer and latex based paints in this Titan? I’m debating on which Titan to get. Just wondering what the changeover process is when switching between solvent based paints and latex
whats the lacquer product? What do you say to Sherwin Williams to get them to find it? Everytime I contact Sherwin Williams they say they tell me spray lacquer is impossible and tell me they don't know anything about it....
Best way to touch up very small areas of cabinets that were originally spray painted with lacquer enamel. Paint is coming off in some small areas, I think from water exposer (drips and spray) since they are near sink. I Have a can of touch up paint, but it doesn't seem to cover. Do I have to do multiple coats?
Yes do multiple coats. Spray only and you have to spray the entire face of drawer/door. Lacquer is not very easy to brush or roll and spray is about the only way. Make sure to sand down gently and smooth out where its chipping/coming off.
Robert, this one is top feed as it needs very little pressure, its design for and makes enough pressure for lacquer and conversion varnishes. It works great, it last really long (had one for 15yrs) and not an issue with it, even if you don't use for a month or so, it starts every time...
The ED655+ is a diaphragm pump not a piston pump. The diaphragm flutters continually when running. I have had one for 17 years without a rebuild. I leave lacquer in the hopper all the time. I recently built a similar unit from a Craigslist Wagner 404+. I bought the top valve and hopper to replace the suction tube. $300 into the pump, new parts, hose and gun! Works identically to the $800 ED 655.
Caulking the inside edges of the panels to the rails and stiles will break the seal in time with the frame’s woods expansion and contraction will it not?
Not necessarily, let caulking fully dry before coating. Caulking expands & and contracts with the wood. If you paint before caulking dries then it will crack for moisture has to find a way out...
Cabinet doors are probably small enough that any wood movement would be inconsequential to the paint finish. For larger pieces I think you have a valid concern.
first step is to clean, degloss/sand or both. Primer with water, oil or shellac base. Once primer coated you can do paint. If you want to use lacquer base finishes then i recommend using lacquer base sealer or undercoater (primer- to keep things simple). You can top coat lacquer over Shellac primer but must dry and cure at least 24hrs.
Good finish, fine texture, smooth surface , really is great but smell as lot and people can't resist the smell bacause is extremely strong. Actually Im looking for a latex primer good for cabinets, no oil, shellac or lacquer, I mean, it would be a kind of primer that can block stain. If somebody know it, please let me know.
I painted my 40 cabinet doors with behr poly and stain in one .. i did prep but maybe not right lol some areas you can scratch it off 😑😑 so now i want to redo them with paint.. is there a strong primer that will bond to polyurethane ? with just little sanding or no sanding?
You can definitely use Shellac primer , this primer is the medicine to hard to stick surfaces, water and smoke stains etc. However if you must remove the poly that it's easy to scratch off. If you don't then you will have paint scraping off just as easy. Or remove whst comes off easy and leave the rest but the most lasting method is to remove all. Start from scratch. Best of luck...
Great video ... I use SW as well, just seeing how well you guys mask everything off tells me how professional you all are. The cabinet doors looked great after one coat, was that just camera magic lol? or did you spray them again? your primer & paint build up is actually perfect, not too much not too little. VERY WELL DONE !!!!
Really appreciate 🙏 your comment. That was simply the primer coat. I went back and did a top coat finish on all of them. I used my Samsung Galaxy S9 phone and it did great...also had a friend record this and he did a great job following my lead.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 It's the primer coat that blows me away, does. I can never get it to look like that. I find if I try to lay that much primer down (on builder grade oak cabinets) it always gas's and I get bubbles. Watching you guy's lay that primer is awesome.
@@backcountrytourn5089 are you using a undercoat lacquer base? spray in shaded area. bubbling happens for many factors but usually go lite on the primer coat and you can do 2 or 3 very lite coats of it, also add a bit of thinner or acetone to speed up the drying time.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I was practicing with lacquer for the first time. Definitely a learning curve, but I always hear how much better it is over a oil base primer. I've always just used a oil base primer and with good success, people love their new cabinets. However; I think i'll practice more lol and maybe even invest in a quality sprayer. I'm extremely curios if lacquer is really "that" much better.
@@backcountrytourn5089 oil base primer is great and can't go wrong with it but its not recommended to spray lacquer on top of it. Oil does take a long time to dry and that is 1 of the reasons why lacquer is the way to go. Lacquer dries super fast and the finishes are smoother than oil and water base products. My crew and I have painted kitchens in 1 day. Fully done in 1 day and yet maintaining the quality. Try it and when you do, you will not use oil again.
Amazing paint work... but i think you are using the wrong filters on your respirator. You should be using the charcoal (organic vapor) filters. The pink ones you have on there are for particles like dust and such. Basically does nothing for paint fumes and you may as well just take the respirator off. Just my 2 cents. But amazing job on the paintwork.
Thanks for pointers....I have upgraded respirators and what a difference. I only had pink on that site and had no time to get other one at home since it was was a super easy and small job but truly appreciate your tip.....thanks
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 ah ok that makes sense. And yes its a huge difference! I learned the hard way a couple years ago, except my lesson was in reverse.... i was using the organic vapors filters while doing some sand blasting with a fine abrasive. Well lets just say that i had a lot of difficulty breathing for 3 or 4 days after that. Amazing how filters work huh? Lol. Blows my mind how they can filter vapors, but not a particle thats far bigger than a vapor 🤷🏼♂️. Anyways, glad to hear you got that all sorted out. Im currently looking to switch over to the sherwin williams lacquer, but im having a hard time figuring out what to order.
Yes we do when we have big jobs. Smaller jobs we just go stock white. Makes things easier as stores sometimes are backed up and tinting can take away on productivity.
been a while on this video cant remember the primer/undercoater but its basically called undercoater (primer) and you can get different brands from mostly any paint company. always ask for undercoater and top coat.
I personally use it Mostly for cabinetry. Some times I do use it on doors and trim to keep up with timelines. Lacquer all the way makes the finishes super smooth and glossy.
@@duartepaintinghandymanservices It's a two part catalyzed finish that I've found to be much more durable than lacquer. One of the benefits is it's drying time, it's stackable in just one hour. I doesn't blush as easily as lacquer does either. Once you get the hang of spraying it, it flows out to a satin smooth finish to the touch. My customers love how smooth it feels. I live in northeast Maryland near some of the larger cabinet manufacturers in Lancaster, PA, they all use the same product. The exact product is M.L. Campbell, Resistant Catalyzed pigmented varnish.
@@robertbeaty4909 so I went to ml campbell and looked up the resistant catalyzed varnish and it seems like a great product but how do I choose the colour I want? All I see is white. Sorry if it seems like a dumb question. I very new to this and I want to achieve professional quality. Just don't know where to start. Also is there a sprayer that you would recommend? I don't mi d paying the price as long as I know it'll be worth it
So is lacquer the same as primer? I don't get if lacquer is a type of primer or if you're using the terms interchangeably. I'm only asking because I'm schooling myself on diy'ing my cabinets.
To make the answer short and simple, Lacquer is simply another type of chemical that is custom tinted to any color and in different sheens. There is paint that is water base and can be diluted and cleaned up with water, then yiu have oil base paints which can be diluted and cleaned up with paint thinner. Then you have Lacquer base "paints/coatings" which can be diluted and cleaned with lacquer thinner. Lacquer is a finish coat product and the "primer" si simply called an undercoater or sealer, to keep it simple. If you are not too familiar with lacquer, I suggest using water base primers and paints for now, unless you have someone who can walk you through the process of using lacquers. Cheers from CA
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I paint cars with hvlp and rp guns, how could it take longer than an airless sprayers? The atomization is better with the automotive spray guns in my opinion. No doubt, you are doing a great job painting those cabinets, it is not an easy job for anybody.
@@clapuc9489 I honestly got used to the airless and when using a HVLP takes longer..i can swith needle sizes but stuff can only be diluted so much before loosing its properties. Nice to hear your feedback. I want to paint my car and finding it to be way more involved than cabinets. Might be reaching out for advice...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 anytime, I was called from Cornwell Casting to be in a tv show for Discovery channel. I declined the offer due health reasons, too much chemicals. I am not longer painting cars but houses. It is less harmful, just be careful with lacquer it is as bad as automotive paint and so it is latex or acrylic. I always use a professional mask with the cartridges and paint suit when spraying any paint.
I did not really go into detail as it was simply a video of simply sharing some of the work we do. I will make a video with more info. As per this particular video I used Sherwin-williams / Gemini undercoater and top coats. Graco fine finish tip 3 4hundred...sprayer was a Titan ED655 Plus at about half range pressure. Pressure Guage is not digital but I run it about half way most of the times. Hope this help a bit but I will be making another video with more info. Cheers
It's a Lacquer base from Sherwin-williams and the primer or "undercoater"s a Lacquer base as well...this is not water clean up...you have to use Lacquer thinner for clean up or to dilute it.
Man you did such a good job bravo! My kitchen is the same color and we want to paint it to off white or cream color. Do they make those in lacquer..? I see you used Titan ED655 Plus Airless.. If you don’t mind sharing what tip is that looks so clean smooth and not to much not less is it the one that comes with machine? Did you put any thing paint or anything like that in primer and color or just went straight in got it and thats it didn’t mess with adding such as paint thinner. Looks like u only did one coat of each primer and lacquer.
You can have Lacquer tinted to any color. Any store can do this for you if they have the tinters to do it. Not that hard to find stores that sell and tint lacquers. I used Graco FF410. Fine finish tips minimize over spray and reduce the wasted material. Any paint store carry the Graco green fine finish tips. Did more than one coat of primer and top coats. Video shows bits and pieces of actual work.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thank you yes i was planning to prime it twice then paint or top coat it twice depends how it looks first time.. should i sand it in between the coats if yes 180 or 120?
Mohawk is great lacquer too and their stains and variety of products its probably one of the best out there. Can't go wrong with conversion varnishes. I used graco green fine finish tip size 410/412
Sup KR...video is not that old man..and yes the lacquer comes white or any color you like it all depends where u go buy it and if they Tint them. Almost every paint stores carries lacquers although some stores will not custom Tint them but they will most likely refer you to one of their stores that does. Lacquer comes in any color you'd like and in abfew sheens (shininess) matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss and piano high gloss....it's a great product.
I work for Sherwin and if you're going to redo your cabinets you should not do it the way professionals do it. People who spray lacquer have training and a lot of safety equipment. Use like a kills oil base and a urethane top coat.
On the first topcoat you sprayed, it seemed like a lot of paint. Do you get runs and drips when you do it like that? I don’t have much experience but it seems like it would be better to spray half as much, and just do an extra coat or two? Especially because of how quickly it dries and sprays
Perfect world; not. Do some research as per VOCs, then feel free to comment. You'd be surprised what else carries VOCs that you might not have been aware off. Other that, did you find the video helpful?
It is so awesome to see a contractor do the prep work into the job that makes the finish look like it should! I see so many guys on TH-cam spray the finish without caulking and fixing the imperfections like holes cracks and water damage. Great job sir. You give your customers the job that their paying for.
You would be surprised how many people are against caulking joints, cracks etc. I guess you just have to make the mistake NOT to caulk, have water damage and warp mdf, wood etc and very unhappy client to call you to understand this some act of professionalism. I simply do what is best given the condition and expectations of my clients. Every client is unique and I do what they pay me to do but I also educate them when that is needed it. Some clients actually know what they want and they get their way and I am totally fine with that. Cheers happy holidays
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I understand I retired last year. I had a Residential and Commercial Paint business for 24 years. I miss it but glad to be enjoying time with my wife and getting yo travel. Other than the pandemic things is good. I wish you the best have a great day.
You are 100% correct about the caulking. Looks so much better plus if you don’t the bridging paint will crack. Beautiful job.
Wow I shoot cabinets exactly same process same sprayer same methods. Only difference is I have a drying rack that I stack the doors on to dry. For touch ups I have a local store that will fill spray cans with lacquer I provide. Excellent job. Lacquer is the best choice by far as you know. I even label the doors like you do. I tape off the styles exactly same as you. If I have client who will complain about smell like in apartment units I use waterbase lacquer. I prefer the Nitro. The waterbase can sometimes cause an amber color in spots. Bondo and caulk same way. I am going to switch to a fresh air system. What people should know is painting cabinets is less expensive but doesnt hold up or look as smooth. Lacquer is the way to a glass like showroom finish. After about 3 weeks the lacquer is cured and becomes pretty much bullet proof and looks great for years. Great video.
Seems we were taught the right way of doing things and that is a great feeling. I would use racks but it's simply less equipment to carry around and less moving, I simply lay out ladders and spray all in one shoot....lacquer is super easy to fix if you mess up...paint is a slow process and finishes are tough to get unless you have a shop etc...cheers keep up the quality work.
what store does fill spray cans with your laquer for touch ups ?
When I used to do cabinet doors I built a spray stand with 2x4s and a lazy Suzan on top. This way I could remain in one position at a comfortable height and simply rotate the door as I sprayed it. I used the rubber padding that is made for area rugs to keep them from slipping attached to the plywood on the lazy Suzan with some hot melt glue. This protected the door as well as prevented it from slipping..
I have used a similar method, only issues is the moving of every single piece to spray adds up a lot of time, laying them like you see on video is way faster and results are similar. Its great to know that you used another system than mine as it also helps prevent back pain/issues from the bending over too much....cheers...
Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results.
Definitely did a superb work on the prep and that is Key to a long lasting product. Lots of work and I am sure you appreciate the fact that you did it all yourselves. Cheers!!
If you would’ve had them done in lacquer, the job would’ve been completed in 1/8 of the time.
Dios mío finally another professional painter on TH-cam. Greetings. Nice job. I do mostly lacquer in high end homes, trim doors etc. You should try a kremlin sprayer sometime. They are amazing. Fast and excellent finish. Cheers. Richard Paining in British Columbia
Will absolutely try it out. Always like to learn new methods, techniques and tools.
You make it look so easy! Nice job! I'm about to embark on redoing cabinets for a flip house. Thanks for the video! Enjoy retirement!
It is super easy but that's cause I've been at it for some 20+yrs....good luck with the flips....retirement? What's that? Lol
As a painter for 30 years, excellent job. Only one piece of advice: you aren't supposed to caulk the panels. That's for contraction and expansion.
I am totally with you on this however every client gets what they like and I simply have to deliver what they want. Customer is always right. Right? Lol 😆 I get your point though.
True. If I had the situation, I'd fully explain it and then do whatever they ask for. So, you sir, are correct! Have a great day!
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 your doing right to caulk openings, your doors arent new, they have dried over a long time for wood shrinkage
Just be sure to pump that caulk deep enough into cracks, caus caulk shrinks alot when dry.
Using the dap with silicone added will get you expansion room to move , and it doesnt expand and contract enough to worry about it.
I’ve come back 20 years later and my caulk is in great shape. I know how some high end factory finish pre finished cabinet door sometimes have the panels without caulk. It isnt always best for appearance to leave it open on older cabinet doors. Some clear ,natural finish doors may already have half the crack filled previously anyway
Roy cadwell, what about if cabinets is wood grain?. What do you do to cover it cus its hard with sprayer machine.
I paint cabinets and use the Renner 2K waterborne polyurethane top coats. I always caulk. I use a high-grade, very flexible caulking and I have NEVER had a problem. Roy have you actually had problems with caulk or are you just passing on what is considered standard procedure?
Finally sameone with a good paint skills . Greetings from raleigh painter . Eres chingon cuz
If I am painting today, guess what? I will be the best painter I can be. Been doing this for a while but still have much to learn....saludos....
David's West Coast Painting paint my house 😨😍
@@andreaacosta6253 lets do it....
Awesome job guys! You make it look so easy (and I know it's not). I am doing a kitchen remodel now and you just gave me the motivation to at least try this myself. Much appreciated!!!
How did it go?
@@orionred2489 It went pretty good but the video makes it look a heck of a lot easier than it is for the novice like myself.
They say if you can spray cabinets you can paint a car.
I use a sealer for the wood - anything really, then Tractor Implement Paint as a base coat and whatever color and material on top of that after a light sanding. Tractor implement paint is crazy tough and hard - no cracking or peeling it sticks like crazy.
have you tried graco fflp tips, at half the fluid pressure? less high pressure tips spits at trigger open , trigger closed.
They can tint your lacquer primer close to your darker finish color
Make sure if your old clear finish is well sanded, because a fast dry lacquer wont bite as deep as a slower dry primer
reason : if the cabinet get bumped with a slightly blunt object, it can chip the more brittle lacquer primer off easily.
No one knows this until its too late, because this was not bare wood for a quick dry lacquer to absorb into to grab deeper.
It usually happens like when a quick dry Zinzer is applied over a harder older lacquer finish being your base and not well sanded.
get 2 5 gal buckets, one long scaffolding wood planks, set your cabinet doors on top of small cut wood pieces to elevate them.
This elevates your doors higher off the floor eliminating overspray or kicking up dust off the floor into your sprayed doors.
Also flooding so much paint on your ladder and tarps.
Also get red rosin paper to put on floor, save your tarps from a dust mess from loaded up tarps
I spray alot of cabinet doors on my 16 ft aluminum scaffolding plank.
I wrap each small wood pieces to place under cabinet doors to elevate them with the blue paper towels so there is a soft
surface each newly dried face wont get the wood to press into it.
Good info on the blue paper towels... i've gotten to the point where I prefer to spray and dry horizontally but the wood press is always an issue. will try to use it on my painter's rack as well, cutting them into small strips and wrapping them around the bars.
As for lacquer, I'm not sure he was using lacquer (in white???).
Great video - thank you sharing and providing answers to questions in the comments!!
Anytime buddy
Nice job 👍
I use to use a lot of lacquer, but I changed to water based urethane alkyd which I love now for ease of use and clean up .
All the best 🤙
Funny things is I always used water based and oil base products for cabinets and never liked lacquer or conversion vanishes due to high risks and smells but the finishes are just incredibly smooth and durable. Can't go wrong with urethane paint now adays and its also durable. A few downfalls to it but still a very good choice.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510
You are dead right about the smoothness of lacquer 👍
I just did my kitchen in Aristoshield from Dunn-Edwards, an alkyd paint. I have some more cabinetry to build in other rooms, and was considering lacquer for the fast recoat times. As a hobbyist, and not a professional, is that a terrible idea?
@@ericmlevy as a hobby/ experiment i think you should try it as I am almost sure you will really like the results.
@@ericmlevy
Aristoshield is fantastic water based alkyd enamel. Very durable. I use it on all my cabinet jobs .
Very nice work guys! It's rare to see pride taken in ones work now a days. My wife wants to paint our cabinets. Ugh. Lol
Great comment and thank you. Some people don't take pride for whatever reason, we take pride because we like what we do and we know how to do it. Some people know how to do things but are not happy doing them...and some think they know until they try and realize its harder than what we make it seem. Any one can do it, just have to take step at a time, patience and the end results are way better, best of it all YOU DID IT YOURSELF. 🥂
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 no sanding?
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 great vid. I'm building our new kitchen and called a sherwin williams commercial finishings store today. Was very disappointed in the persons attitude. Stressed more that you have to spray it in a spray booth at a shop with zero exceptions. I recently upgraded my hvlp setup to a fuji q5. Looking forward to spraying precat lacquer but will go with Benjamin Moore if a store is closer than sherwin.
@@LongIslandHobbyist sorry about that experience, some time it's simply best to brush it off and move on. From my experience, people at many paint stores or directly dealing with multiple customers throughout the day, get a bit edgy and some people simply don't have social skills as to accommodate each customer. I can advise to use regular but better if using precat as it toughest, you don't need a spray booth, but make sure you dust off and have zero wind flowing from fans or from windows and doors being open. You do need ventilation, keep in mind this stuff is very explosive, no smoking, no heat guns or anything that can set it off. Benjamin Moore sells Mohawk lacquers as well, they do here in CA, they have great Lacquer products...good luck and above all...have fun doing it....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thanks for the advice. Are you using regular water based lacquer in the video? I'm fine with using that as well. I'm just new to the lacquer scene.
I live in Alabama and we use a similar product down here it’s called kem aqua plus. (Sherwin Williams)Sherwood kem Aqua plus, water based pigmented or clear laquer.
Primer- Sherwood kem Aqua plus surfacer
E64 W 520 (product number)
Top coat- Sherwood kem Aqua plus
M64 W 522 (product number)
I'm familiar the Aqua plus line up. Its good stuff as well specially when you have a lot of cabinets and the drying time doesn't need to be fast. I will have to try doing a lacquer clear top coat and see if it holds up since its a water borne product.
Yea we like it because we get picky customers that complain about the smell sometimes, this is less harsh. Drytime is not that bad about 30-40 mins and fully cured in 24 hrs. Just another option to keep in the bag. Awesome video love your Titan setup, I got to get one of those. Keep up the great work and great videos.
@@bp3393 where in AL?
Ricky Davis
I’m in Huntsville
@@rickydavis8860 I’m in Huntsville
I personally would not recommend. Caulking those cabinets. They were made like that. So the wood can shrink and expand with the weather if you seal that line I think It is possibly it will crack down the middle panel. When weather changes because the wood will try to move And since it’s sealed it will split
If you dont caulk water will seep through cracks and brake down the top coat over time. Caulking expands and contracts with wood, its the perfect solution for cabinets, specially kitchen cabinets.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 until the caulk get old and hard then cracks
@@Stevesbe nothing lasts forever. But like the other gentleman said, you just inform the clients and let them choose, no right way "per say"....I personally caulk all cracks to avoid moisture or any liquids getting into cracks and avoid failure.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Dapp 33 window glazing .
You can color match it and use it on clear and stained finishes also.
Takes a little more time but the quality of workmanship is well worth it takes your cabinets from contractor quality to museum quality. The trick is a quarter inch towel sharpened in a pencil sharpener with the tip upturned & V'ed . Pushes the putty right into the joint cleans everything up nice and pretty usually between first and second seal.
I really appreciate this whole comment section...I can see true professionalism here, and I learned alot
Nice work. You may feel better if going with the charcoal cartridges for that respirator as they'll drop out the chemical vapors.
Yes I do used them but that one project the new cartridges had not arrived and it was a must do with what you have deal. Thanks for that note/tip...cheers
I bet having a paint sprayer will make you feel like you can move mountains and push over trees...I gotta get one ASAP...😁
Feel great to see the change by simply spraying some chemicals....
Which sprayer? Thanks
Can’t use lacquer unless you have the means to spray it.. lacquer isn’t a brush and roll material.
Nice technique man. I’m a painter also. Hey you should try the kremlin sprayers. They are excellent. I spray all trim and doors in high end new houses with lacquer now. It has raised me a cut above the crowd. The kremlin and excite gun make me look good and as you know lacquer is cheaper and easier to work with.
Thanks for suggestion on that Kremlin, It works great I personally have not used it much, I really like the titan, easy cleaning and setup and hook up a few 25ft lines and it keeps pressure just right. I am sure you do great work and even better if lacquering all the doors and trim, I do it sometimes too just not too crazy about it since it does wear on the body/health in the long run. You must wear all the protection gear else its one thing for the other. Either way I like painting and seeing my finished products, my clients sometimes are speechless....as I am sure same happens on your end...cheers...keep painting...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 the titan spray model?
Thanks for the greeting and video. Love it
You did a VERY BEAUTIFUL JOB! LOOKS AMAZING 👍👍👍
Thank you....we do this every day so we make it seems like nothing special....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 que tipo de primer usa?
@@brubra2270 uso mucho el shellac, pero tambien el lacquer undercoater cuando Los gabinetes ya han sido pintados.
Que tab fuerte es el voc de pigmented primer and top coat amigo? Del Sherwin y el shellac?
Que tan fuertes son los voc de estos products amigo?
Cool vid.i have been painting for 20 years...simple is cool...
Thank u Joe coming from another painter...and yes...simple is cool...cheers
Beautiful works guys very clean
Thanks jay...cheers
nice and heavy. ive seen many people cross-off like shit but youve got that! nice job brutha.
thanks J, we try to a medium or 2 lite coats on all..cheers !!
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 quick question, what grit do you guys use for the initial sanding before you primed? thanks.
@@jcresmond1653 we used a wornout/dead 220. It doesn't deep scratch and does leave the surface smooth with all surfaces ready to take in whatever you throw at it.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thats what i use, i was just curious if you have a better technique. see you around brutha! thanks.
Great job I spray cabinets as well I use a lacquer paint from WOODFINISHERSDEPOT and put a clear coat in top after paint is applied every thing was great I just advice got work to look better after putting undercoater check all the wood with spackling for any damage on them
Thanks for that tip, we do that prior to primer coating but going over it once more doesn't hurt a thing. Always keep on learning something new.... cheers
I always use a small brush to get inside the corners and edges first before a spray.
I want my kitchen done so badly I can taste it!!!
I have to admit... I’m a little turned on.
$5-8k you can get it done
@@miketibbs6149 only for paint, correct. There are a bunch of other things needing repair or change, and it adds up quickly! Also, babysitting laborers isn’t my vibe ...
@@AndreaShink correct, only for paint. Can’t imagine having a full kitchen remodel in today’s construction world
Fantastic job, I wish you guys were in Indianapolis area.
I should add, I’m debating between a Titan impact 440 and this sprayer. I spray a lot of cabinetry, but also need the versatility of being able to spray interiors and exteriors occasionally
If I were you, I'd buy the ONE I would use the most, have that pay for other . I like to keep them separate as they will last longer without clogging issues....but only you know your necessary equipment.
Looks good buddy very nice
looks great..a local rep recommened he water based laquer but said i didnt need an undercoat....all white cabinets yellowed.....old stain bleeding through..shoulda known better and ran an undercoat like this but you wanna believe the sherwin reps hahaha
That's a bummer, he should have recommended an undercoater but maybe a miscommunication issue there with rep. I'm sure he meant the aqua Is a non yellowing but one must always use and undercoat just to be on the safe/sure side of things....
Beautiful!
I need to hire them for my kitchen!
im ready
Beautiful work! Please come to Pittsburgh PA!!!!
Nice 👍 , when shooting a double wet coat let your first coat flash off then hit with your second coat that ensures you've raised your paraffins.
Great work bro thanks for the video
Hello I would like to know name and model of the gun and compressor you use to paint has. Excellent quality work 👍
Good work.You may want to use a charcoal filter for your respirator
Yup I bet his smelling all of that, not smart. Lacquer is strong as hell
Still a lot of sheen on these doors before spraying. Always been the standard to scuff first. Even if it’s just a 3m gold scotchbright pad.
Sometimes called giving it a tooth.
They been sanded with 220 and tsp cleaned...they were ready ...trust me., I never spray unless properly prepped.
Good evening! I just found your channel and you guys do really nice work. I’m just wishing the name of your company was David’s Gulf Coast Painting because I definitely be paying you a visit. I bought a 19ft Motorhome a and looking to do a makeover on the cabinets. I actually have a paint sprayer but to be honest... I don’t have the confidence to use it. 🤦🏻♀️.
I’ve even thought about taking the doors to my local auto paint shop!! Technically they’re for an auto. Right?!? Lol. I’m now doing research to see if there’s a low sheen lacquer out there on the market.
Okay. I need to use a low sheen topcoat. Got it!!
there are a few sheens you can pick from depending on where you go and what product is being used. There are Matte, low sheen/satin, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss...
Lacquer does dry fast but comes with the cost of a wicked odor and tougher cleanup. Home owners who want to do this but don't have the equipment can try brushing on sherwin williams acrylic/alkyd paint. Dry time is reasonable, odor is ok, and it levels well.
What special equipment other than a sprayer? It seems like this would be much faster to do and easier to clean up rather than cleaning brushes and pans. I was going to go that route but watching this video has me thinking this would make more sense.
@@susantaulli730 what i meant by equipment was a decent sprayer, which is a cost, the space to do it, some kind of rack (they used a ladder), rosin paper and tape, etc. Set up and clean up is timely for that. You can clean a brush out in minutes when you know how to. Acrylic alkyd paint cleans with water. Lacquer paint cleans with lacquer thinner (another cost) and you have to dispose of that somewhere. You need a proper mask/ventilator if you want to avoid fumes and open space that is dust free. Lacquer is a nicer finish if you can pull that all off. But it takes experience to do that well. They make it look easy due to hundreds of hours of practice as painters (I know as I have been one myself for 35 years). Not saying people can't so I'm not trying to discourage. Let me just say this- after all the years of painting i have done, i usually brush finish on cabinets still. And customers are very pleased
That’s the way to do cabinets, *lacquer*
To set the record straight. What does "better" mean to you? Faster? Lacquers aren't meant to be applied like latex paint. An Air gun (Like a SATA or Tekna ProLite) or HVLP gives the absolute finest finish with finest control. When I first saw this video I thought it was from 20+ years ago lol. I started spraying lacquers 43 years ago and that was the way to create a custom show paint job (30 coats of hand rubbed lacquer). I used PPG and DuPont lacquers & Acrylic Urethanes on cars (restored 23) and on furniture (cabinet and furniture maker in business over 4 decades). Lacquers took away business from oils & shellac (finish of choice for 1000s of years) all in the name of productivity. Lacquer is definitely a "hard" finish, however that's relative. Today lacquer would be considered a low-mid range finish. IF the goal is the ultimate in durability and even aesthetics (certain times) then lacquer won't be on your radar screen. Conversion varnish or automotive acrylic urethane, those are super hard. I started using automotive finishes on my wood projects 40 years ago and is mostly what I use because of how durable it is. We used to use DuPont Imron for frames and suspension pieces, today, powder coating is the ultimate finish. However, I still use shellac, tung oil (pure), lacquer, polyurethane, wiping varnish, wax finish, etc. It simply depends on what the project is. Would I paint kitchen cabinets with lacquer? NO, but I don't do work in that end of the market; we don't use caulking either. Obviously the set up used here is not very clean and the end result was apparently just to clean it up a little. Lots of damage to the doors not repaired, caulking and lacquer painting with airless on ladders on the floor tells me what the budget is. Some asked "Why use lacquer? IF that's the budget, why not use lacquer? I realize it takes a lot more skill, hanging the fronts up and spraying all faces and edges at once yields the very best overall finish most efficiently. It does seem contrary to commonsense, lay a board flat and the finish smooths out much much better, however, it's about achieving perfect balance of amount of finish without sags/runs while being flat. There are always vertical surfaces on cars or furniture/cabinetry and they look just as good as the pieces painted flat. Hang the doors and develop great painting techniques. Gaining full control of your spray equipment does take time. Lots of muscle memory involved with perfect technique (NOT achieved in this particular video). There is never a one size fits all. Lots of misinformation out there. I own and use a variety of equipment for applying paint, including Binks (Models 7 & 18 & 2001) Devilbiss Tekna ProLite, Graco UltraMax (Cordless), Titan ED665 Plus, and Fuji Platinum Q5 T70 and they all have their use. I would NEVER use the Titan to spray a car, furniture or cabinetry. That doesn't mean an acceptable finish can't be completed with it, just that for the level of finish I desire it's much easier to achieve with either air or HVLP. There's only one downside to true HVLP, that's cost. My Fuji system with everything is close to $2,000.00, about 3x the cost of the Titan. I get asked all the time, which is better, to that I ask, "What are you planning on doing? The Titan ED665 Plus can't compete with the Binks,Tekna or Fuji for fine finishing, and they can't compete (Binks, Tekna won't) with the Titan when applying Latex paint on the inside or outside of a house. If you want a super smooth finish straight from the gun with very limited overspray, HVLP is the only way to go. They are expensive at the Stage 4 & Stage 5 levels, but I find over time it's less expensive if you spend more.
Write a book about your experience and tips.....are you retired now?
Yeah I agree with you I've been spraying Cabinetry for over 15 years now I'm only using binks guns and pressure pots system and I use Lacquer Base-Coat and top coat of water-based Lacquer it gives it a smooth finish that no other spray system can deliver.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 what he's saying is you doing it all wrong 🤣 🤣 🤣 why getting mad at him for pointing the facts
@@K1llum1nati imagine that, doing it all wrong and banking on it, I guess not so wrong after all. Wise guy!! In all seriousness, Mr. ALAN points out technique and where to use certain spray systems. I appreciate criticism as it makes me want to correct and always be a better finisher, he is also an absolute pro at his comments. Well versed and not a bully like many people out there in www.
Great job. 👍🏻
Lacquer is not a hard finish. It is soft. It also yellows quickly. Finishers use it because it is easy to sand. It is not a good finish to use if you want really good cabinets. If you are going to have somebody spray your cabinets , have them use a water white conversion varnish.
Keith, everyone's comments are welcome, we can disagree here and there. Lacquer is a hard finish, not sure why you would say they are soft. Older lacquers did yellow over the years but is wasn't as noticeable, oil base clears and paints yellow over the years as well but not as noticeable for 5+ years. By then many people change colors and call for maintenance. Not sure what lacquers you are referring to be soft, manufacturers and data sheets state they are hard finishes. Lacquer is easy to sand but that is not why people like it, there are many more reasons and easy-to-sand is definitely not a high priority. Again, all comments are welcome and we can agree to disagree. Cheers
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I'm saying they are soft because I worked in the coatings industry for 20+ years both as a finisher myself and I worked for companies who sold coatings.
@@keithwinnett7747 I sprayed coatings just about the same time and still disagree. Conversion varnishes are great too and hard but I still go lacquer any day. I will bring up this with sales reps and check of their products. Just for my info. Thanks
Those high pressure hoses can be a pain. Always find something to tangle on. You could jump out of an airplane with just your spray gun and 200 feet of high pressure hose and be safe. I guarantee you it get hung on something before you hit the ground.......
Lol funny guy...just remember that the actual cabinets inside the house need to sprayed out, hose needs to be able to reach them without moving sprayer more than once....I see some people move sprayer multiple times because they have short hoses and its simply an overkill....milking it basically. We get in and out.
I want to spray lacquer on my cabinet doors outside but what do I do about the actual cabinet that is inside my house? Can I roller/brush that part? I'm too nervous to spray inside of my house.
Amy, I don't recommend rolling or brushing lacquer as it dries fast and not enough time for rolling, unless you are mighty fast. For inside the house, mask around the cabinets with paper and tape double layers. Make sure your windows and doors are open for ventilation, and maybe have a fan turned ON blowing AWAY from spray area, not too close to the actual spray zone. It's really not that hard but if you take these simple steps then you will be just fine. Expect dust so if you have a lot of inside spray to do then make spray booth and take short break as to not build up too many vapors inside the booth. If you have never used lacquer, then I highly recommend hiring a professional and check references, some painters are not lacquer/fine coating finishers. Above all have fun doing it!!
Is that a low pressure machine. ? Was the psi. Thx
Great job
You rotate your wrist too much when you‘re spraying. The spray gun is closest to the material at the center when your arm is straight and as you swing out in either direction (from center) the spray point is further away causing overspray.
.
Looks great
May I ask what kind of spray system and brand you are using? It looks great.
did you add a clearcoat or is the final finish just the tinted laquer , and is it true laquer (laquer thinner clean up) or kem aqua
this is a true lacquer and its tinted lacquer with sheen. no kem aqua but you can also tint that line of lacquer.
He must have worked at the auto factory 🏭 with me 😊 because he’s a hellava painter!😂
Love that sprayer.
Never fails...its a durable and easy to use sprayer
Mind sharing the sprayer and the machine ? Where can i get one i have big project in my kitchen to. Thanks!
@@saudinhodzic3672 sprayer is titan ed 655 plus. Can get those pretty much any paint store.
Can you tell us what exact primer and paint you used, and possibly the color? Looks great.
Sorry I know theres 600+ comments, tried to search thru them to answers my questions but…
What type of sprayer did you use?
Oil based primer or lacquer?
What type of topcoat…Sherwin?
Thanks! Great work!
I am using the Titan ED655 plus and using Lacquer undercoater and top coat from Gemini..I use various Lacquer brands not too sure whichever one I used on this particular vid
I hired “professionals” to do my cabinets and omg 😳 they ruined them. They didn’t caulk them they used rollers for both painting and priming and when they applied the primer they left the doors still on the cabinets and missed a lot of spots . Then they took the doors down for the paint and did them outside in the lawn with a drape underneath but the final result came back gritty, uneven, and with pieces of grass 😭 the owner had promised us he only trusted a few of his guys with the cabinets and that they had over 25 years experience. Next thing you know two 19-20 year olds show up to do the work and now I’m considering just buying new cabinets. I think I would’ve done a better job myself.
It's a bummer to read your cabinet project went south. I hope you withheld payment. Sounds to me like these "pros" were those what I call "clowns" who simply buy some whites and now they feel pro painters. I wound take all cabinets off, sand down to smooth finish with a 220 sand paper. Spray all areas and spray both, primer and the top coat. Sand between coats. It's a lot of work, people don't see the amount of detail that goes into the painting of any cabinet. If done right, expect to pay above average as it's quality work. Next time please ask for references, vet them out. Good luck
Fortunately they forgot to ask us for our deposit at the time of the contract signing and we haven’t paid.
Thank you so much for the tip 🙏🏼 my husband and I are going to try it out ourselves with one of the smaller cabinet doors if we feel we can’t do it we will contract someone else. The company we had hired had 4.9 stars in reviews out of 200 people which is why we were shocked. And we weren’t going to pay cheap either we were going to pay $4,700 for the job which was why we thought it was going to come out great but unfortunately it was a disaster and they got it on our brand new appliances 😫. But thank you once again for the tip. 😊
I’m trying to learn... did you spray primer first? What kind of primer? Is the top coat the lacquer? Do you ever sand after the last coat?
I used Sherwin Williams undercoater....guess u can think of it as a primer. Then the lacquer top coat. Sanded between coats as needed. No sanding after last coat.
I am currently prepping original cabinets from our 1947 home. My question is why are you choosing lacquer instead of latex paint, or was the lacquer just the primer coat? I am planning to prime before painting, but now I wonder if I should be considering lacquer instead of latex primer?
Evan, I am in the Business for two reasons. First, because I truly enjoy what I do. Two, to make money. That being said, sometimes, we have very small jobs and the timing simply works better to lacquer coat instead of painting with oil or water base paints. Budget also plays a role in what products I use and then the type of finish. Some clients have properties as rentals and some have custom made homes, I am sure you get the point by now. Now to your cabinets: If I were you, I would look at the cabinets and see if they have been stained or varnished in the past (my guess is yes) if that is the case this is what I would recommend you to do: sand down a bit as to open up pores on the current surfaces, TSP or degreaser clean all surfaces, primer coat with oil base cover stain primer or Shellac primer. Then you can lightly sand again with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper (worn out is best as it doesn't burn the edges and it knocks down any raised grain or overspray). I would recommend an Alkyd- water base/borne from Home depot Berh, Sherwin williams Pro-Industrial or Emerald, Alkyd Emulsion from Vista paints or Aristo-shield from Dunn Edwards. I am not sure where you are located but you can always call different paint stores and ask for Urethane or Alkyd paints for cabinets. I recommend that type of paint since its a water base/clean up, great results and easy to use. Hard part of all is the prep, once prep is done its really a fun process to see the changes and best part is that you did it your self and you did it the "right" way.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 Thank you so much for taking time to reply. I have thought of Alkyd for this project, so it's good to hear that from a professional. The thing with this house is that nothing was ever done over the last 70+ years except additional slapped on coats of paint with no prep apparently. I'm scraping as many layers off as I can then will thoroughly sand and prime. Lots of work, but they're actually WOOD cabs and we could never afford to replace them with similar quality. Thank you again for the tips; we usually use Sherwin Williams paints.
Lacquer is the Best But the problem is for touch ups
Can you use lacquer and latex based paints in this Titan? I’m debating on which Titan to get. Just wondering what the changeover process is when switching between solvent based paints and latex
this is mostly for lacquers...I never use latex or acrylic paint. If you do, I am sure you will have clogging issues sooner rather than later.
Looks good
What primer and tip size did you use?
i used the Sherwin Williams undercoater. tip size is graco fine finish 410 or 412, cant recall but it was a mid size tip
whats the lacquer product? What do you say to Sherwin Williams to get them to find it? Everytime I contact Sherwin Williams they say they tell me spray lacquer is impossible and tell me they don't know anything about it....
Best way to touch up very small areas of cabinets that were originally spray painted with lacquer enamel. Paint is coming off in some small areas, I think from water exposer (drips and spray) since they are near sink. I Have a can of touch up paint, but it doesn't seem to cover. Do I have to do multiple coats?
Yes do multiple coats. Spray only and you have to spray the entire face of drawer/door. Lacquer is not very easy to brush or roll and spray is about the only way. Make sure to sand down gently and smooth out where its chipping/coming off.
I've seen many airless sprayers but never a top feed. Is this a modification?
Robert, this one is top feed as it needs very little pressure, its design for and makes enough pressure for lacquer and conversion varnishes. It works great, it last really long (had one for 15yrs) and not an issue with it, even if you don't use for a month or so, it starts every time...
The ED655+ is a diaphragm pump not a piston pump. The diaphragm flutters continually when running. I have had one for 17 years without a rebuild. I leave lacquer in the hopper all the time. I recently built a similar unit from a Craigslist Wagner 404+. I bought the top valve and hopper to replace the suction tube. $300 into the pump, new parts, hose and gun! Works identically to the $800 ED 655.
Caulking the inside edges of the panels to the rails and stiles will break the seal in time with the frame’s woods expansion and contraction will it not?
Not necessarily, let caulking fully dry before coating. Caulking expands & and contracts with the wood. If you paint before caulking dries then it will crack for moisture has to find a way out...
Cabinet doors are probably small enough that any wood movement would be inconsequential to the paint finish. For larger pieces I think you have a valid concern.
Just a question
How works the painting of the cabinets
Primer -paint and lacquer
first step is to clean, degloss/sand or both. Primer with water, oil or shellac base. Once primer coated you can do paint. If you want to use lacquer base finishes then i recommend using lacquer base sealer or undercoater (primer- to keep things simple). You can top coat lacquer over Shellac primer but must dry and cure at least 24hrs.
Good finish, fine texture, smooth surface , really is great but smell as lot and people can't resist the smell bacause is extremely strong.
Actually Im looking for a latex primer good for cabinets, no oil, shellac or lacquer, I mean, it would be a kind of primer that can block stain. If somebody know it, please let me know.
Try Quickdry primer from Sherwin-williams....
How do you paint the cabinet base when it’s fake wood? Like plastic veneer?
Use a vinyl sealer or Shellac primer from zinsser. Can't go wrong either one
I painted my 40 cabinet doors with behr poly and stain in one .. i did prep but maybe not right lol some areas you can scratch it off 😑😑 so now i want to redo them with paint.. is there a strong primer that will bond to polyurethane ? with just little sanding or no sanding?
You can definitely use Shellac primer , this primer is the medicine to hard to stick surfaces, water and smoke stains etc. However if you must remove the poly that it's easy to scratch off. If you don't then you will have paint scraping off just as easy. Or remove whst comes off easy and leave the rest but the most lasting method is to remove all. Start from scratch.
Best of luck...
Great video ... I use SW as well, just seeing how well you guys mask everything off tells me how professional you all are. The cabinet doors looked great after one coat, was that just camera magic lol? or did you spray them again? your primer & paint build up is actually perfect, not too much not too little. VERY WELL DONE !!!!
Really appreciate 🙏 your comment.
That was simply the primer coat. I went back and did a top coat finish on all of them. I used my Samsung Galaxy S9 phone and it did great...also had a friend record this and he did a great job following my lead.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 It's the primer coat that blows me away, does. I can never get it to look like that. I find if I try to lay that much primer down (on builder grade oak cabinets) it always gas's and I get bubbles. Watching you guy's lay that primer is awesome.
@@backcountrytourn5089 are you using a undercoat lacquer base? spray in shaded area. bubbling happens for many factors but usually go lite on the primer coat and you can do 2 or 3 very lite coats of it, also add a bit of thinner or acetone to speed up the drying time.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I was practicing with lacquer for the first time. Definitely a learning curve, but I always hear how much better it is over a oil base primer. I've always just used a oil base primer and with good success, people love their new cabinets. However; I think i'll practice more lol and maybe even invest in a quality sprayer. I'm extremely curios if lacquer is really "that" much better.
@@backcountrytourn5089 oil base primer is great and can't go wrong with it but its not recommended to spray lacquer on top of it. Oil does take a long time to dry and that is 1 of the reasons why lacquer is the way to go. Lacquer dries super fast and the finishes are smoother than oil and water base products. My crew and I have painted kitchens in 1 day. Fully done in 1 day and yet maintaining the quality. Try it and when you do, you will not use oil again.
Amazing paint work... but i think you are using the wrong filters on your respirator. You should be using the charcoal (organic vapor) filters. The pink ones you have on there are for particles like dust and such. Basically does nothing for paint fumes and you may as well just take the respirator off. Just my 2 cents. But amazing job on the paintwork.
Thanks for pointers....I have upgraded respirators and what a difference. I only had pink on that site and had no time to get other one at home since it was was a super easy and small job but truly appreciate your tip.....thanks
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 ah ok that makes sense. And yes its a huge difference! I learned the hard way a couple years ago, except my lesson was in reverse.... i was using the organic vapors filters while doing some sand blasting with a fine abrasive. Well lets just say that i had a lot of difficulty breathing for 3 or 4 days after that. Amazing how filters work huh? Lol. Blows my mind how they can filter vapors, but not a particle thats far bigger than a vapor 🤷🏼♂️. Anyways, glad to hear you got that all sorted out. Im currently looking to switch over to the sherwin williams lacquer, but im having a hard time figuring out what to order.
luv that color, thats professional rt there like a car finish. Anyone know which Sherwin Williams color that is ? Thanks.
Can't recall colors...been a while since I made this video and one too many projects in between
Tint your primer coats for dark finishes
Yes we do when we have big jobs. Smaller jobs we just go stock white. Makes things easier as stores sometimes are backed up and tinting can take away on productivity.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 True 👍
Diculpa que tipo de sprayer es esa que estas usando gracias si me pudieras decir telo agradecería
Se Llama Titan ED655 plus....
did you have to thin the primer?
Not really, just a little bit a few Oz to the mix..
Can you share what kind of primer or lacquer you used. Help.
been a while on this video cant remember the primer/undercoater but its basically called undercoater (primer) and you can get different brands from mostly any paint company. always ask for undercoater and top coat.
wow what a nice finish, is this paint exclusively kitchen cabinet paint ? or just common lacquer paint? Thank you
I personally use it Mostly for cabinetry. Some times I do use it on doors and trim to keep up with timelines. Lacquer all the way makes the finishes super smooth and glossy.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 does lacquer also come in a satin finish? thanks again, I am a subscriber will be watching
I've done my share of that. I prefer M.L. Campbell's pigmented conversion varnish though.
Why, can you explain a little, what you find different and better that made you go that route?
@@duartepaintinghandymanservices It's a two part catalyzed finish that I've found to be much more durable than lacquer. One of the benefits is it's drying time, it's stackable in just one hour. I doesn't blush as easily as lacquer does either. Once you get the hang of spraying it, it flows out to a satin smooth finish to the touch. My customers love how smooth it feels. I live in northeast Maryland near some of the larger cabinet manufacturers in Lancaster, PA, they all use the same product. The exact product is M.L. Campbell, Resistant Catalyzed pigmented varnish.
@@robertbeaty4909 thanks
@@robertbeaty4909 so I went to ml campbell and looked up the resistant catalyzed varnish and it seems like a great product but how do I choose the colour I want? All I see is white. Sorry if it seems like a dumb question. I very new to this and I want to achieve professional quality. Just don't know where to start. Also is there a sprayer that you would recommend? I don't mi d paying the price as long as I know it'll be worth it
So is lacquer the same as primer? I don't get if lacquer is a type of primer or if you're using the terms interchangeably. I'm only asking because I'm schooling myself on diy'ing my cabinets.
To make the answer short and simple, Lacquer is simply another type of chemical that is custom tinted to any color and in different sheens. There is paint that is water base and can be diluted and cleaned up with water, then yiu have oil base paints which can be diluted and cleaned up with paint thinner. Then you have Lacquer base "paints/coatings" which can be diluted and cleaned with lacquer thinner. Lacquer is a finish coat product and the "primer" si simply called an undercoater or sealer, to keep it simple. If you are not too familiar with lacquer, I suggest using water base primers and paints for now, unless you have someone who can walk you through the process of using lacquers. Cheers from CA
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thank you 😊 I appreciate your response
If you use a hvlp gun then you will really do magic.
Looks good still.
HVLP takes too long to spray, its great for touch ups and tiny jobs but time is key in this industry and need the big guns per say..cheers from CA
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I paint cars with hvlp and rp guns, how could it take longer than an airless sprayers?
The atomization is better with the automotive spray guns in my opinion. No doubt, you are doing a great job painting those cabinets, it is not an easy job for anybody.
@@clapuc9489 I honestly got used to the airless and when using a HVLP takes longer..i can swith needle sizes but stuff can only be diluted so much before loosing its properties. Nice to hear your feedback. I want to paint my car and finding it to be way more involved than cabinets. Might be reaching out for advice...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 anytime, I was called from Cornwell Casting to be in a tv show for Discovery channel.
I declined the offer due health reasons, too much chemicals. I am not longer painting cars but houses. It is less harmful, just be careful with lacquer it is as bad as automotive paint and so it is latex or acrylic. I always use a professional mask with the cartridges and paint suit when spraying any paint.
What kind caulking do you recommend for cabinets?
I like using the Alex fast dry and Sherwin-williams 1050 quick dry
Great video, was there a reason you didn’t mention tip size, pressure, or any information about the products?
I did not really go into detail as it was simply a video of simply sharing some of the work we do. I will make a video with more info. As per this particular video I used Sherwin-williams / Gemini undercoater and top coats. Graco fine finish tip 3 4hundred...sprayer was a Titan ED655 Plus at about half range pressure. Pressure Guage is not digital but I run it about half way most of the times. Hope this help a bit but I will be making another video with more info. Cheers
Did you use a specific type of lacquer? I know it’s SW but is there a name or part number? Looks really good
Hello Paul, it's sher-wood pro.....regular Lacquer but they also carry the precat
Impassive. Cold you talk mo but your sprayer and specific paint?
I'll make another video and talk more about lacquer products and basic setup and clean up.
These must not be your cabinets, it seemed like you didn’t give a crap about seams.
Is that water-based Lacquer? And what kind of primer did you use. Thanks
It's a Lacquer base from Sherwin-williams and the primer or "undercoater"s a Lacquer base as well...this is not water clean up...you have to use Lacquer thinner for clean up or to dilute it.
my back hurts watching this. why not a table to spray?
It was a quick small job but I get your point, back does hurt after a while.
Man you did such a good job bravo! My kitchen is the same color and we want to paint it to off white or cream color. Do they make those in lacquer..? I see you used Titan ED655 Plus Airless.. If you don’t mind sharing what tip is that looks so clean smooth and not to much not less is it the one that comes with machine? Did you put any thing paint or anything like that in primer and color or just went straight in got it and thats it didn’t mess with adding such as paint thinner. Looks like u only did one coat of each primer and lacquer.
You can have Lacquer tinted to any color. Any store can do this for you if they have the tinters to do it. Not that hard to find stores that sell and tint lacquers. I used Graco FF410. Fine finish tips minimize over spray and reduce the wasted material. Any paint store carry the Graco green fine finish tips. Did more than one coat of primer and top coats. Video shows bits and pieces of actual work.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thank you yes i was planning to prime it twice then paint or top coat it twice depends how it looks first time.. should i sand it in between the coats if yes 180 or 120?
@@saudinhodzic3672 yes on the sanding. Use 220
can we have a mix of 1980s old cabinets spray painted with new shaker cabinets mdf and plywood combination. Trying to save some money
Yes you can just keep in mind that the texture of the wood might show slight differences but yes you can.
What tip size did you use? Sherwin williams Kem Aqua lacquer bleeds a lot on vertical surfaces. I am for mohawk lacquer and conversion varnish.
Mohawk is great lacquer too and their stains and variety of products its probably one of the best out there. Can't go wrong with conversion varnishes. I used graco green fine finish tip size 410/412
I have a question what did you apply to seal the wood grain?
Any undercoat primer
I know this is an old video, but I thought lacquer was only white do you add color or does it come in colors. thanks
Sup KR...video is not that old man..and yes the lacquer comes white or any color you like it all depends where u go buy it and if they Tint them. Almost every paint stores carries lacquers although some stores will not custom Tint them but they will most likely refer you to one of their stores that does. Lacquer comes in any color you'd like and in abfew sheens (shininess) matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss and piano high gloss....it's a great product.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thanks for replying so fast this helps
What is the name of the primer and lacquer and what color did you use?
Can't recall the color name but its an gray...primer is the Sherwin-williams lacquer undercoater.
I work for Sherwin and if you're going to redo your cabinets you should not do it the way professionals do it. People who spray lacquer have training and a lot of safety equipment. Use like a kills oil base and a urethane top coat.
What sprayer and compressor are you using? It works awesome.
Using the Titan ED655 plus. Buy it its great
On the first topcoat you sprayed, it seemed like a lot of paint. Do you get runs and drips when you do it like that? I don’t have much experience but it seems like it would be better to spray half as much, and just do an extra coat or two? Especially because of how quickly it dries and sprays
So you sprayed lacquer inside the home? Are you not concerned about VOC's and the health risk?
Perfect world; not. Do some research as per VOCs, then feel free to comment. You'd be surprised what else carries VOCs that you might not have been aware off. Other that, did you find the video helpful?