I have the earlier version of the 21085 which ran beautifully, and pulled long trains, before it just quit running. The problem is in the two position e-unit which I have been unable to repair. I didn't realize the chassis is built differently because I haven't looked at that part of the locomotive. Thanks for this information. I am considering trying to replace the motor and e-unit with those from a 290, which I have several of. Do you know if that would work?
IF the reverse unit is just not functioning and it was, then try to spray it with some electronic contact cleaner. (not the degreaser but the one for electronic components). it may be gunked up from much use. If something that is broken it may be easier to replace the reverse unit. If the mounting holes of the 290 motor lines up with the 21085 chassis motor mounting holes, then it will will work. Obviously you will need the 290 reverse unit in the tender. Or you can just solder 2 wires from the new motor or the old motor (one wire to each rivet on the tender chassis) to the tender to let the 21085 to just be a (forward) runner. Hope this helps
Hello! I am working on a 21085 with the two prong plug that has not been plugged in for years - not sure if it works. Unfortunately the plug broke off the wires. I am considering repairing the plug myself and I wondering if you know where I could find the replacement plug, or/if there is a way to make the connection directly to the tender. Thanks for any help!
Hello Eric. You have 2 options. One easier the other requires more labor. One way is to take the existing 2 wires from the plug. Remove the plug and solder and extend the wire so it will reach the 2 truck rivets in the tender. Then solder one wire to each of the truck rivets. The other method is to buy a new plug. I have one on Ebay if you enter the Ebay item # into the Ebay search field it will come up: 204670111246 Good Luck and thanks for watching my youtube site. Doug
I have about 7 of these engines, the old 70-year-old motors and a after a while are just nothing but problems I couldn't keep them running. You can buy a brand new motor for this for $49. A cam motoh my gosh. It runs like a brand new engine, no more AC noise. With the new motor for the $49 investment, I'm 2 V. This engine can crawl like a turtle. If you can keep the old motors and he's running good for you. But when you invest a $49 and install one, it's like you've got a brand new engine. Had to do a lot of digging on TH-cam. I don't think a lot of people know about the brand new cam motor you can get you We'll have to put a bridge rectifier in the cold car which will convert it from AC. To DC. Easy but it is super quiet very good investment. I wish I would have known about this before I scrapped so many of these for parts.
I have the earlier version of the 21085 which ran beautifully, and pulled long trains, before it just quit running. The problem is in the two position e-unit which I have been unable to repair. I didn't realize the chassis is built differently because I haven't looked at that part of the locomotive. Thanks for this information. I am considering trying to replace the motor and e-unit with those from a 290, which I have several of. Do you know if that would work?
IF the reverse unit is just not functioning and it was, then try to spray it with some electronic contact cleaner. (not the degreaser but the one for electronic components). it may be gunked up from much use. If something that is broken it may be easier to replace the reverse unit. If the mounting holes of the 290 motor lines up with the 21085 chassis motor mounting holes, then it will will work. Obviously you will need the 290 reverse unit in the tender. Or you can just solder 2 wires from the new motor or the old motor (one wire to each rivet on the tender chassis) to the tender to
let the 21085 to just be a (forward) runner. Hope this helps
Hello! I am working on a 21085 with the two prong plug that has not been plugged in for years - not sure if it works. Unfortunately the plug broke off the wires. I am considering repairing the plug myself and I wondering if you know where I could find the replacement plug, or/if there is a way to make the connection directly to the tender. Thanks for any help!
Hello Eric. You have 2 options. One easier the other requires more labor. One way is to take the existing 2 wires from the plug. Remove the plug and solder and extend the wire so it will reach the 2 truck rivets in the tender. Then solder one wire to each of the truck rivets. The other method is to buy a new plug. I have one on Ebay if you enter the Ebay item # into the Ebay search field it will come up: 204670111246
Good Luck and thanks for watching my youtube site. Doug
I have about 7 of these engines, the old 70-year-old motors and a after a while are just nothing but problems I couldn't keep them running. You can buy a brand new motor for this for $49. A cam motoh my gosh. It runs like a brand new engine, no more AC noise. With the new motor for the $49 investment, I'm 2 V. This engine can crawl like a turtle.
If you can keep the old motors and he's running good for you. But when you invest a $49 and install one, it's like you've got a brand new engine. Had to do a lot of digging on TH-cam. I don't think a lot of people know about the brand new cam motor you can get you We'll have to put a bridge rectifier in the cold car which will convert it from AC. To DC.
Easy but it is super quiet very good investment. I wish I would have known about this before I scrapped so many of these for parts.
th-cam.com/video/SjD3olU7Zns/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8FAovwQ6u4DFly8I