M119 Installing Distributor Caps and Spark Plugs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Installing camshaft drivers, ignition rotors, distributor caps, and spark plugs. I know I am going to get flak for not replacing the dust covers behind the distributor caps. But at my cost of $150 each I'll let them slide for now and replace them if it becomes an issue. I picked the best two out of the four I had to choose from.
keep doing the videos just like you have been doing them ,25 to 30 minutes makes them very helpful for a unexperience mb owner ,,I love your videos ,very ,very helpful ,,keep it up ,thank you ,,,,
1:33 (AKA, $150 each) My grandfather was a mechanical engineer for International Harvester Corp. He was the lead designer for their 1st post-war tractor. He said the only way they could convince farmers to get rid of them was to *raise prices for replacement parts to unprofitable (for the farmers) levels!*
Hi, please don't change your videos. They are very good.
Thank you! And I'll try not to.
2:48 I sure am glad Mercedes switched to TORX fasteners. I never have stripped one of those out. I can't say the same for Allen screws! When I reseal the breather-covers on M112/M113 engines I always replace those 5mm aluminum Allen-heads with stainless TORX.
Same here. Those never get reused.
For what it’s worth, the most recurrent problem my 400e engine has (over 20 years), is due to the rotor caps. My experience is that the non MB brands don’t last very long and are the source of rough idle after a few thousand miles.
I have a question. Is it a good idea or even possible to install the sway bars and shocks from the 500E of the same vintage to give the 400e improved cornering?
Thanks so much for the great video series!!
I will have to monitor how long the caps and rotors last and when they need replacing pick a different brand and compare the longevity. Might make a good comparison since I make the same drive 5 days a week.
I'm not 100% sure about the sway bar. Maybe Gerry would be able to have more information on this. From what I remember hearing the 500E has the front suspension from the V12 SL? Or maybe just the brakes? I'm not sure about compatibility. I would assume the sway bar was used from the same vehicle as the suspension. Also, the front shocks might be usable although there are some decent aftermarket options as far as replacements for better ride quality and handling. The rear 500E shocks are self leveling so would not be usable in a non SLS 400E if SLS 400Es were even a thing.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you for your reply! For completion, I was thinking, but did not write I’d get new parts (bars, bushings and shocks, providing they are available) and not grab from a bone yard. Not that there is anything wrong with that.
I had a Porsche 928 before I started with MB’s and the major thing that separates the Porsche is the cornering. The 928 was almost as comfortable (except it didn’t have heated seats) but cornered without much body roll. Would love to more or less duplicate that on the 400e. That is why i'd like to know if there is a cost efficient way to reduce the body roll on the 400e. I'll definitely check out other shock options and thanks for the tip on that!
Regarding the rotors, it is a long story but my early reply is the short version. I too do the same things over and over and my 400E was my daily driver for about 16 years. Once i went to MB rotors, the rough idle went away, even after about 10K miles.
@@DMountains check out the BenzWorld, MBworld, and 500eBoard forums if you haven't. A lot of good information on there. You'd be able to get the information you're looking for 100%. 99% of my experience has been on direct factory replacement as opposed to compatibility between cars. I could look up specifics by comparing part numbers but that's about it. All I could say is if the part numbers were the same or not. They might fit by physical dimensions but I wouldn't know that information.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you for the reply.
Your response makes sense. I forget that there is an endless world of part numbers and we are talking about roughly 30 year old part numbers.
And then there is the other universe of anecdotal information.
Maybe someday you'll want to do suspension mods on grampa's MB. Ha ha.
@@DMountains finding the part numbers is easy. I just have to have a VIN to look up and then the other VIN to compare. It just takes a bit of time to weed out old part numbers with new since a lot have been superceded.
Suspension modification is on my list of things to do.
6:18 Any idea on how I can remove this? All I have is small allen wrench but not enough leverage to remove from my postion. I'm about to just snap it off because I removed the top two no problem. Thank you ✊️
And you can't reach the bottom bolt? You'll need a longer Allen wrench or and extension on an Allen socket.
@@FriendlyMBTech okay. this is my first time I'm working on my car and am completely oblivious as to what tools are haha if I have any more tool related questions I'll be back aha thank you boss 👊
@@user-ir7vb5iz1o something like this should work.
MULWARK Premium Hex Bit Allen Socket Set, 3/8, 1/4, 1/2 in. Drive, Automotive,Bike,Motorcycle& ATV | SAE & Metric S2 Steel & High Torque Strengthened CR-V Socket a.co/d/2Cy4JY6
You won't need the SAE sizes, just metric.
@@user-ir7vb5iz1o maybe a few 1/4" extensions between 1" and 6"
@@FriendlyMBTech ah man thank you!!! A real one forreals! 💯
Thx for the video.. My 94 e420 has always (for lack of a better description) sputtered when the rpms reach about 4000 under load. I have done several tune-ups over the years and still the problem persists. My guess is it may be starving for fuel as the pumps are quite possibly original. Do you think this may be the cause of this problem? Thanks and keep the videos coming!
I would definitely be interested in seeing what the fuel pressure is doing around that RPM. It could definitely be anything in the fuel system causing lack of fuel pressure or volume issues. Restricted fuel filter could cause that, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pumps, etc...
@@FriendlyMBTech Thx! I'm going to replace the pumps, filter, regulator and see if that solves the problem.. I'll keep you updated. Have a great California day.
What about the ignition coil wires
Do you need the routing? There is a channel on the bottom of the plastic trim around the distributor caps that the coil wires route through.
The passenger side routes over the top and down through the bottom of the drivers side.
How did you know these parts were bad?
The contact points of the distributor caps and rotors were visibly burned and black. They might have still been ok but I replaced them and the spark plugs because I wasn't going to go that far into rebuilding the engine and not replace them.
Dont change anything Bruh