Thank you so much for the linkage info.. the rear upper n lower links are the only difference between the Wendigo n marksman.. chassis wise.. yes 9 tooth pinion tires n wheels.. n body.. im getting the tires for my stamped steel rc4wds n the links n pinion but going to use my stock gen8 motor.. the Wendigo is just to damn rowdy for it's own good 😂
This is cool I did the same to mine I removed the button head flattened down the mold boss closer to the knuckle drilled the whole to create a countersink. I also built my own 1/8” drag link rod so it reaches to the Knuckle. Using an 8/32 tap and die with traxxas rod end. My shock oil changed to 50wt and moved all shocks to the top hole rear forward and front rearward. I’m going to make the panhard bar/track bar out of the same material I did for the drag link in hopes making it a straight bar Mach the drag link. I’m also thinking of pitching the whole front end and using an axial ryft four link no bump steer and I like how the servo mounts on them idk yet.
Nice vid! I hope this truck really catches on. I got mine at the AZRC Fest from the Redcat table at the end of the last day, and I love it. I have a Wendigo Kit build and I am thinking of taking the steel axle tubes out for some measurements (they are out of stock every where), then buying some brass tube to make a matching set for the Marksman. This will strengthen the axles housings and add un-sprung weight down low. I'll post the measurements here once I get them. Did you change the tire foams from the single stage ones you added? I am trying some Proline dual stage foams in JConcepts Scorpios on generic Amazon sourced metal beadlocks. I went with the Scorpios for their larger diameter as my rig is more of an "extreme trail" build than diehard crawler. It is for when I hike alone and want to keep a faster pace than a 1/10th scale 1.9 wheeled rig can manage. Keep the videos coming!
Those set screws. They are button heads. Change them to flat heads. That gains you the 1mm without grinding! Not sure if that plus grinding would stack benefits?
@@TinyTruckinRC I ground and used the flat counter sunk screws (plus 2-2.5mm). This will max out the steering, as even with the Club 5/Husky steering links (which have offset rod ends) the steering link barely touches the front diff pumpkin. I would need to make an angled/curved link to get more clearance. Though, I don't think there is much more steering angle to get with the stock knuckle design and CVDs. I also have the Club 5 servo relocation mount and a 35kg water proof coreless servo. If you do buy the Club5 stuff find the kit that includes both the links and the relocation mount together, as there is an extra shorter steering link, angled rod ends, and brass bushings you don't get when buying them separate (plus the combo price is better).
I had a house fire a week ago and lost 9 of my 10 rc collection . i had a double e defender and loved it but it needed work on the drive line and electronic s
I'm hopefully getting one this weekend...
Dude I was laughing so hard when you said please stop soon.
He knew too, said it before it went 400 feet
Thank you so much for the linkage info.. the rear upper n lower links are the only difference between the Wendigo n marksman.. chassis wise.. yes 9 tooth pinion tires n wheels.. n body.. im getting the tires for my stamped steel rc4wds n the links n pinion but going to use my stock gen8 motor.. the Wendigo is just to damn rowdy for it's own good 😂
This is cool I did the same to mine I removed the button head flattened down the mold boss closer to the knuckle drilled the whole to create a countersink. I also built my own 1/8” drag link rod so it reaches to the Knuckle. Using an 8/32 tap and die with traxxas rod end.
My shock oil changed to 50wt and moved all shocks to the top hole rear forward and front rearward. I’m going to make the panhard bar/track bar out of the same material I did for the drag link in hopes making it a straight bar Mach the drag link.
I’m also thinking of pitching the whole front end and using an axial ryft four link no bump steer and I like how the servo mounts on them idk yet.
Nice crashes
It looks as though it would really benefit from having a Hobbywing 1080 ESC installed. It needs more low speed modulation.
It comes stock with the 1080 and a Holmes hobbies motor
Great video i really appreciate the info :) mine will be showing up Wednesday happy i pulled the trigger
Pick up some 100wt shock oil, and be mindful of ID if looking for wheels you need just over 2". Let me know if you have any questions.
Through in a axe system ! Would change everything ! Braking and slow crawl!!
I ended up putting in the Holmes silent ESC and team spec motor. Couldn't be happier!
@@TinyTruckinRC Awesome choice! Way better than stock!
Nice vid! I hope this truck really catches on. I got mine at the AZRC Fest from the Redcat table at the end of the last day, and I love it. I have a Wendigo Kit build and I am thinking of taking the steel axle tubes out for some measurements (they are out of stock every where), then buying some brass tube to make a matching set for the Marksman. This will strengthen the axles housings and add un-sprung weight down low. I'll post the measurements here once I get them. Did you change the tire foams from the single stage ones you added? I am trying some Proline dual stage foams in JConcepts Scorpios on generic Amazon sourced metal beadlocks. I went with the Scorpios for their larger diameter as my rig is more of an "extreme trail" build than diehard crawler. It is for when I hike alone and want to keep a faster pace than a 1/10th scale 1.9 wheeled rig can manage. Keep the videos coming!
Those set screws. They are button heads. Change them to flat heads. That gains you the 1mm without grinding! Not sure if that plus grinding would stack benefits?
I did that first, then went down 1mm. Stacked benefit for sure!
@@TinyTruckinRC nice
@@phukofftopus9195 you still have to grind them about 1mm after taking the button head out. Then you get full travel without binding the CV.
@@TinyTruckinRC I ground and used the flat counter sunk screws (plus 2-2.5mm). This will max out the steering, as even with the Club 5/Husky steering links (which have offset rod ends) the steering link barely touches the front diff pumpkin. I would need to make an angled/curved link to get more clearance. Though, I don't think there is much more steering angle to get with the stock knuckle design and CVDs. I also have the Club 5 servo relocation mount and a 35kg water proof coreless servo. If you do buy the Club5 stuff find the kit that includes both the links and the relocation mount together, as there is an extra shorter steering link, angled rod ends, and brass bushings you don't get when buying them separate (plus the combo price is better).
@@bobzilla9p0 thanks for sharing your experience with everyone. I'll check out the club5 combo!
I had a house fire a week ago and lost 9 of my 10 rc collection . i had a double e defender and loved it but it needed work on the drive line and electronic s