0:00:00 Intro Welcome 0:01:06 Initial inspection with lid removed 0:03:16 Inspecting the board after being removed from the chassis 0:03:55 Problem found 0:04:03 Removing the faulty component 0:04:52 Getting a replacemnt component to fit back on the board 0:06:17 Testing time 0:06:55 Summary of the job
Seems like Sorin just released a video around the same time as I did with the same sort of failure, somewhat demonstrating that this sort of failure is the most common we get for the electronics, and I'm thankful for it.
I got up this morning and saw the two notifications, and thought it a bit odd. He posted ~1 hour after yours, and it's so fun to see; The two of you have such radical different ways of approaching both the diagnostic- and the repair aspect. You are meticulous, safe and thorough, while EasyPizza.. I mean Sorin.. thrives using his way. Luckily though, this time he actually didn't just delete the cap with a blade or tweezers
For *some* situations I won't, usually if it's in a high thermal sink area and there's sufficient nearby decoupling capacitance to support the loss of the cap removed, but certainly where it's no/little risk to put it back I much prefer to certainly.
@@pldaniels It's always been "Easy Pizza" for Sorin as long as I remember. The meaning of it is easy money(pizza money). Sorin likes to compare repair prizes to pizza prizes since different countries have different costs. But relative cost to pizza vs repair should be around same. When in UK Sorin said pizza costs like 25 pounds in some other country might cost like 10 pounds. By the way how much is pizza in Australia? ;) I assume around same as in UK.
Hi Paul, Greetings from melbourne. I like your new format of short (pun intended) and sweet straight to the point format. Hope the misses and the fur babies are well. Regards John Finn
Thanks. John. I find that most videos do a lot better in the 10~15 minute range, beyond that it's hard to keep people engaged, at least with the level of editing that I do ;)
I love fixes like these and over the last 20ish years have had lots of broken caps that take a while to find but are easy to replace. The longest part of the job is taking the motherboard out and putting it back as Paul points out in the video.
Certainly with these newer machines it's a royal PITA ( A1425 and A1534 were other big pains in the past ). Maybe they should put a dye indicator in the caps so when they pop/crack you can see them quickly :)
It does the job well. I tried some fully opaque units but alas they didn't have the fiber reinforcements so tended to puff & buckle soon as heat was applied :(
That was CAPtivating! What I love is the PMICs etc usually have short detections allowing these faults to become "safe" instead of burning giant craters in the logic boards while toasting the cap or supply circuit.
What's "annoying" with newer PMICs ( USB-C series onwards for Macbooks ) is that they react so quickly that you don't get a chance to really see any thermal pulses under normal circumstances. Still, better that they're fast and at least the board doesn't go up in smoke leaving behind a carbonised crater in the PCB.
@@pldaniels Higher framerate thermal cam, higher sensitivity and ability to trigger frame-by-frame delta analysis to capture any "blips" ? Software can then buffer 5s of data and find the frame with the highest blip and amplify that to show where it was. With so little actual pixels it should be quite trivial. Want to go nuts, add keypoint matching as well (lots of OpenCV libs available) to make sure correct pixels are compared in case of camera or board motion.
Indeed was happy to see that crack. Usually I start with PMIC areas, then speakers amps... I missed this one the first round or two. At least this one was visible, unlike the one from the recent live-stream where the crack was located on the underside ( had to restort to primative injection and thermal check )
I'm currently going through my old stock of Qianli iNeezy Tweezers, they have that stepped ground down tip profile. Fairly sure they still make them. In the end when I find a pair that I like I tend to buy 5~10 of them so I don't have to go looking again any time too soon :)
I’m annoyed I forgot to squelch the audio for the accelerated sections, but I also stupidly realised I had been setting the wrong encoding settings with the video editor in previous videos, this one should look crisper and more saturated. Live and learn I suppose
@@pldaniels Yes your rubbish at everything, repair, coding, squelching audio :) No, it's great to see and maybe burning the midnight oil too much to entertain us here live in Europe (The Netherlands) is clouding your view. This video looks great !
@@rabrabbito3650 thanks ;-) I watched the video a few times after I had encoded it and didn't hear the screaming-squeaking noise but only did after I had put the video to public/live. Not quite sure why I didn't hear it on the local video, frustrating because I used the same headphones (nice Sennheisers), might have been too much background noise during the day time. Thanks for watching, much appreciated.
@@pldaniels I'm afraid TH-cam, in all it's wisdom, throws a special sauce over the upload ? I've heard that before, also from Rossie and other youtubers.
This cap is more for rail ripple stability (uF) than high frequency noise control ( pF ). These are for the local speaker amps so keeping the effective ESR down and helping avoid rail sag is useful. Easy to replace these ones with no real risks
Because now and then it's not a shorted cap but rather a shot-through MOSFET for GPU/CPU or other sensitive area, and if you inject voltage inappropriately you can ruin the board. The other reason is that it's less trouble to spend 10 minutes looking for a cracked cap than soldering on wires, setting up the DCPSU, setting up the iR cam and then scanning over the board looking for the short, particularly if it's outside of the ideal short range of ~0R1 - 10R, of which a lot of them can be (I've had extremely hard shorts < 50mR and very soft shorts > 15R which don't show up too well with iR due to lack of heat generated ). I prefer to take some time and apply the least amount of rework/mods to a board level at a time to minimise risks, particularly with these soldered-on-and-encrypted SSDs. Each to their own style, and this is the style I personally am most comfortable with when it comes to being accountable with the customer.
The damage was visible - you get used to seeing their tell-tale visible flaws; that's why I search over the boards with the boards held at an oblique angle as it tends to be more efficient at revealing the cracks. Note also that I'm using an optical microscope and the quality of what I see is always going to better than the video recording
@@GurjVirdee that certainly does work if you're fortunate enough to have it fail within the 0.1~10R sort of resistance range. I had one on a live stream the other day that was nearly impossible to find with the thermal cam :(
I have the MacBook Air of the same vintage and I can see mine lasting quite a few more years. The speed is fine for anything but very compute intensive programs.
That being an M1 A2337 unit? They're nice machines. I actually do like them because they still have the more realistic build and only requiring 5 minutes to extract the board.
@@pldaniels Yes. Good to know that it should be easy to service. I’ve used Macs since 1988 and only had 2 problems. A burnt out resistor on a Mac Plus and a faulty power supply on a early iMac, which was replaced under warranty.
@@pldaniels Yep, if you search up “Burnt out screen connector M1 iMac) you can see an Apple Community thread of a bunch of them. I wouldn’t be shocked to see one on your bench soon enough. It’s the same awful screen connector found in the A1706, 7 & 8’s but stretched out in an iMac that causes it to eventually frail with heat and short onto the machines metal body causing screen artefacts.
Probably less damage to create specifically sized captive pliers to go around the part and twist/shear it off - certainly if there's enough room using the flick-off method, assuming you're appropriately skilled, is the least invasive technique of all... assuming you do it right :|
It's an option I take if I can't find them visually. Sometimes you get them and they're under 0.05R or over 10~15R and that makes them not so easy to find with safe injection levels (0.5->1V at 2~3A peak). Was a good example in a previous video (live) I did where there was a short on the board and it was a MLCC but it was not showing up too well; easy to miss. Anyhow, for me, I prefer the look first, if not found, try injection.
The quality of these components are awful. Companies such as Vishay, Kemet and Kyocera produce military grade capacitors that kick A$$. 😎 Thanks for the video Paul. Hello to the Misses and the kitties 😊
I think a big factor of the issue is the relative Farad-Volt densities. Most of these failures are happening on the highly packed parts, 10uF 25V in 603, or worse (imo ;) ) 20uF 6V3 in 402, just crazy.
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0:00:00 Intro Welcome
0:01:06 Initial inspection with lid removed
0:03:16 Inspecting the board after being removed from the chassis
0:03:55 Problem found
0:04:03 Removing the faulty component
0:04:52 Getting a replacemnt component to fit back on the board
0:06:17 Testing time
0:06:55 Summary of the job
Seems like Sorin just released a video around the same time as I did with the same sort of failure, somewhat demonstrating that this sort of failure is the most common we get for the electronics, and I'm thankful for it.
I got up this morning and saw the two notifications, and thought it a bit odd. He posted ~1 hour after yours, and it's so fun to see; The two of you have such radical different ways of approaching both the diagnostic- and the repair aspect. You are meticulous, safe and thorough, while EasyPizza.. I mean Sorin.. thrives using his way. Luckily though, this time he actually didn't just delete the cap with a blade or tweezers
in contrast to Sorin you actually solder back the component...
For *some* situations I won't, usually if it's in a high thermal sink area and there's sufficient nearby decoupling capacitance to support the loss of the cap removed, but certainly where it's no/little risk to put it back I much prefer to certainly.
He has quite a following that's for sure. Where did the "Easy Pizza" thing come from (I did notice that on his thumbnails now)
@@pldaniels It's always been "Easy Pizza" for Sorin as long as I remember. The meaning of it is easy money(pizza money). Sorin likes to compare repair prizes to pizza prizes since different countries have different costs. But relative cost to pizza vs repair should be around same. When in UK Sorin said pizza costs like 25 pounds in some other country might cost like 10 pounds. By the way how much is pizza in Australia? ;) I assume around same as in UK.
The onscreen explanations are Excellent! Great Repair and Video! Thank You.
Thanks for dropping in and watching!
Hi Paul, Greetings from melbourne. I like your new format of short (pun intended) and sweet straight to the point format. Hope the misses and the fur babies are well. Regards John Finn
Thanks. John. I find that most videos do a lot better in the 10~15 minute range, beyond that it's hard to keep people engaged, at least with the level of editing that I do ;)
I love fixes like these and over the last 20ish years have had lots of broken caps that take a while to find but are easy to replace. The longest part of the job is taking the motherboard out and putting it back as Paul points out in the video.
Certainly with these newer machines it's a royal PITA ( A1425 and A1534 were other big pains in the past ). Maybe they should put a dye indicator in the caps so when they pop/crack you can see them quickly :)
I heard Rossmann when you said "Tiny" touch on flux.. 🤣
Rossmann has no business being near flux :D
@@pldaniels Rossmann school of thought on flux has its advantages.
1 nanoRossmann of flux = 1 yottaDaniels of flux.
@@asicdathens as always it's all about context. For the most part the excess flux became a running joke for Rossmann.
Really interesting, thanks Paul.
Yep these repairs are definitely the ones we like to see.
Makes up for all the ones that we spend hours of diagnostics on.
Definitely. Do not see enough of these clean jobs.
good job Paul nice reasonably quick job
In the the video at least; still a solid 2 hours on the bench of course
thank you so much..
Great detailed video thanks
I have that same silicone non-stick mat on my (former) non-stick baking sheets.
😊
It does the job well. I tried some fully opaque units but alas they didn't have the fiber reinforcements so tended to puff & buckle soon as heat was applied :(
Nice job 👍👍
That was CAPtivating!
What I love is the PMICs etc usually have short detections allowing these faults to become "safe" instead of burning giant craters in the logic boards while toasting the cap or supply circuit.
What's "annoying" with newer PMICs ( USB-C series onwards for Macbooks ) is that they react so quickly that you don't get a chance to really see any thermal pulses under normal circumstances.
Still, better that they're fast and at least the board doesn't go up in smoke leaving behind a carbonised crater in the PCB.
@@pldaniels Higher framerate thermal cam, higher sensitivity and ability to trigger frame-by-frame delta analysis to capture any "blips" ?
Software can then buffer 5s of data and find the frame with the highest blip and amplify that to show where it was. With so little actual pixels it should be quite trivial.
Want to go nuts, add keypoint matching as well (lots of OpenCV libs available) to make sure correct pixels are compared in case of camera or board motion.
another great video Paul. Good eye catching the damage on that cap.
Indeed was happy to see that crack. Usually I start with PMIC areas, then speakers amps... I missed this one the first round or two. At least this one was visible, unlike the one from the recent live-stream where the crack was located on the underside ( had to restort to primative injection and thermal check )
Nice work, the pee pee bus is all better now 😎
Hi Paul! How dare you make it a PC! Non apple cap😂 Nice job 👍
Great repair Paul. Shame you have to spend more time dismantling and reassembling than diagnosing and repairing (the fun stuff).
I feel for other industries such as car repairs, I've seen them have to spend half a day disassembling a vehicle just to get to a $15 part :-o
I come here after watching Joey does tech video. You are amazing ❤
Thanks for visiting - nice to see some eyeballs channeled over here from JDT.
Thanks Paul for this Short precise fault diagnostics and fix, Can you kindly advice what is tweezer you use for this job , looks pretty sturdy ,Thanks
I'm currently going through my old stock of Qianli iNeezy Tweezers, they have that stepped ground down tip profile. Fairly sure they still make them. In the end when I find a pair that I like I tend to buy 5~10 of them so I don't have to go looking again any time too soon :)
Thank god we have Caps!!!!! ❤ And also "no capacitor no shorted capacitor" as the master Sorin says 😅
Nice easy pizza :) Nice to see your upping your game with the format, editing, keep it up.
Did not even read the other "easy pizza" comments earlier :)
I’m annoyed I forgot to squelch the audio for the accelerated sections, but I also stupidly realised I had been setting the wrong encoding settings with the video editor in previous videos, this one should look crisper and more saturated.
Live and learn I suppose
@@pldaniels Yes your rubbish at everything, repair, coding, squelching audio :) No, it's great to see and maybe burning the midnight oil too much to entertain us here live in Europe (The Netherlands) is clouding your view. This video looks great !
@@rabrabbito3650 thanks ;-) I watched the video a few times after I had encoded it and didn't hear the screaming-squeaking noise but only did after I had put the video to public/live. Not quite sure why I didn't hear it on the local video, frustrating because I used the same headphones (nice Sennheisers), might have been too much background noise during the day time.
Thanks for watching, much appreciated.
@@pldaniels I'm afraid TH-cam, in all it's wisdom, throws a special sauce over the upload ? I've heard that before, also from Rossie and other youtubers.
Paul what is your other channel where you fix laptops on live streams?
youtube.com/@pldlive
@@pldaniels many thanks!
What is the point to put the cap back? This device has already passed the FCC test
This cap is more for rail ripple stability (uF) than high frequency noise control ( pF ).
These are for the local speaker amps so keeping the effective ESR down and helping avoid rail sag is useful.
Easy to replace these ones with no real risks
I didn't you just inject voltage on the shorted line and look for heat spot? Could have found that failed cap a lot faster. Non the less great job 👍
Because now and then it's not a shorted cap but rather a shot-through MOSFET for GPU/CPU or other sensitive area, and if you inject voltage inappropriately you can ruin the board.
The other reason is that it's less trouble to spend 10 minutes looking for a cracked cap than soldering on wires, setting up the DCPSU, setting up the iR cam and then scanning over the board looking for the short, particularly if it's outside of the ideal short range of ~0R1 - 10R, of which a lot of them can be (I've had extremely hard shorts < 50mR and very soft shorts > 15R which don't show up too well with iR due to lack of heat generated ).
I prefer to take some time and apply the least amount of rework/mods to a board level at a time to minimise risks, particularly with these soldered-on-and-encrypted SSDs.
Each to their own style, and this is the style I personally am most comfortable with when it comes to being accountable with the customer.
How did you spot that capacitor to be faulty? The cap shows no signs of being dead or cracked. Can't have just spotted it.
The damage was visible - you get used to seeing their tell-tale visible flaws; that's why I search over the boards with the boards held at an oblique angle as it tends to be more efficient at revealing the cracks. Note also that I'm using an optical microscope and the quality of what I see is always going to better than the video recording
@@pldaniels safer way if you got the equipment. I tend to inject 1v and grab thermal camera.
@@GurjVirdee that certainly does work if you're fortunate enough to have it fail within the 0.1~10R sort of resistance range. I had one on a live stream the other day that was nearly impossible to find with the thermal cam :(
I have the MacBook Air of the same vintage and I can see mine lasting quite a few more years. The speed is fine for anything but very compute intensive programs.
That being an M1 A2337 unit? They're nice machines. I actually do like them because they still have the more realistic build and only requiring 5 minutes to extract the board.
@@pldaniels Yes. Good to know that it should be easy to service. I’ve used Macs since 1988 and only had 2 problems. A burnt out resistor on a Mac Plus and a faulty power supply on a early iMac, which was replaced under warranty.
I was wondering how many M1 iMac's you've got in (if any)
Zero. Only got up to 2017 series iMac 21".
@@pldaniels Damn that's pretty good. Screen cable repairs for those things are going crazy at the moment.
@@megatronskneecap what's the fault they ( M1 iMac ) are experiencing? You're referring to the 24" desktop all-in-one units right ?
@@pldaniels Yep, if you search up “Burnt out screen connector M1 iMac) you can see an Apple Community thread of a bunch of them. I wouldn’t be shocked to see one on your bench soon enough. It’s the same awful screen connector found in the A1706, 7 & 8’s but stretched out in an iMac that causes it to eventually frail with heat and short onto the machines metal body causing screen artefacts.
@@pldaniels I hope my other comment explaining it went through. TH-cam seems to censor my own replies to me.
I wonder if anyone has looked into using some kind of laser device for small component removal and install. 🤔
Probably less damage to create specifically sized captive pliers to go around the part and twist/shear it off - certainly if there's enough room using the flick-off method, assuming you're appropriately skilled, is the least invasive technique of all... assuming you do it right :|
Easiest way to find these quickly is with an IR camera. MLCCs should not be glowing :-)
It's an option I take if I can't find them visually. Sometimes you get them and they're under 0.05R or over 10~15R and that makes them not so easy to find with safe injection levels (0.5->1V at 2~3A peak). Was a good example in a previous video (live) I did where there was a short on the board and it was a MLCC but it was not showing up too well; easy to miss.
Anyhow, for me, I prefer the look first, if not found, try injection.
90%? Seems higher than that!😁
Have to leave room for the Tantrum caps, liquid damage and bugs :D
👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
nice
🖐👍
So what is the most common killer of modern machines??
The quality of these components are awful. Companies such as Vishay, Kemet and Kyocera produce military grade capacitors that kick A$$. 😎
Thanks for the video Paul. Hello to the Misses and the kitties 😊
I think a big factor of the issue is the relative Farad-Volt densities. Most of these failures are happening on the highly packed parts, 10uF 25V in 603, or worse (imo ;) ) 20uF 6V3 in 402, just crazy.
@@pldaniels
Yep.
When are you going to do the Microwave experiment? I want to block off time to watch it live if possible. 💥
@@bblod4896 likely won't be live... but I do need to get around to that
Maybe 150 micro-Pauls of flux, very efficient. 🫡👍
Less is more in so many cases. Glad to not have to be needing so many ultrasonic cleaned boards now.