Love your videos. With all fuses to be at or close to the battery it must look like a log jam. This might be a stupid question but here it is anyway. Is it possible to fuse the house battery with in 7 inches then run to a positive bus bar then run all charging loads to it and fuse at that location? Thanks
Hi Jeff, what would be the size of that fuse at the battery (200W/12V=16.6 so a 20A fuse)? Also what type of fuse (slow/fast, maxi/ATO)?. Thanks excellent information!
Hi Jeff. As always thanks! You may have answered this before but I am moving my panels on to a Bimini this spring and thus doing some wiring. Some people in my harbour put a switch in to disconnect the panel’s from the controller. I had understood this is not a good idea. However if it is...wise to do vs disconnecting at the solar panel - could u do or replay what we should do and basics on how and where. Many thanks, your tips are awesome.
I have the same question regarding a solar panel isolation switch. A well known website says that this is a useful addition but alarm bells are ringing in my ear and I don’t know why. Can you please advise? Much appreciated!
Good question. 1st) we always install a fuse on the solar circuit at the battery, to protect the wires 2nd) we normally don't wire a on/off switch on the solar circuits, because we are concerned that someone may disconnect the solar circuit when it's charging. Curious to know what other folks are doing?
@@PacificYachtSystems Your answer is based on a potential error which is not fatal only causing there to be no load and not creating a system malfunction. Besides the risk of forgetting to put the switch to ON, there is no contraindication. I install 2-pole braker which allows me to switch off without danger if I have to make changes.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you for the great fuse explanation. Because we have an aluminum boat we want to switch the circuit off when it's not charging. Where would you put the on off switch?
I need to charge a 22-240v max 100w😊 chest freezer using solar panels on our boat. I know I need an inverter and battery(ies) but that’s as much as I know. Is this the best place to come for advice or could you point me in the right direction for advice. Thank you so much 😀
So what do you do if the charge controller you have has no internal fuse? At the point of the CC you size the fuse according to the cable or the maximum input capacity in amps of the CC?
Because, I've seen people put 300w or more of the panel on a 10 amp charge controller to make sure you get the maximum load charge controller. There is then a risk of exceeding the limit even if the panels are not all placed on the same side in the same way. What do you think? What would be your advice?
When sizing a fuse for a solar array, you need to make sure that both the wires from battery to controller and from controller to solar can handle the amperage from the array. Also, you need to make sure the solar controller is sized to handle the solar array output. Then, you fuse the wire and controller at the battery so that you don't have nuisance tripping.
@@PacificYachtSystems I agree. But when the CC has no fuse, when the panel is matched to the power the CC can handle, then you fuse at the CC depending on the cable or the panel? If it's 10 awg, do you put 30A in it or do you put a 15A for a 10A panel? We are in 12v ... Because remember you say we don't need a solar panel fuse. The 2 reasons you name is that the panel capacity is limited vs a battery and also in another example that in the CC well there is a built-in fuse. This clearly indicates that if the manufacturer includes a fuse, it is important. So when there aren't any, this takes rules clear for a good size the fuse. My example earlier was a little different from the subject and we would have to answer according to a regular system and calibrated according to regular situations.
@@PacificYachtSystems Hi Jeff! I just contacted a charge controler manufacturer a second time. The answer was that if we exceed the amperage of the solar panel, e.g .: CC 10a and panel 20a, then there is no risk of damaging the CC. The only thing it will do is I will need less sun to reach 10a. It will take as much as it can, 10a, and the rest will not cause overheating. So in one example, it may be a good strategy according to them that saves the cost of buying multiple CCs and combining panels in multiple directions.
Hi Jeff, thank you for the great information. I don't know if you covered this already but here's my question. I want to be able to remove the solar and wind from my deck and stow it in the cabin in a high wind event. I would like to have quality deck plugs so I could just unplug and stow. Is there some good plugs or do you recommend thru wires?
Hi, I watched many of your videos, and follow you on youtube. Can you please explain how to wire the charging system to engine start battery, house 12v battery and a Li battery for the 120VAC inverter , utilizing the alternator, shore power and solar. Thank you.
I'm curious. I see solar calculators that say "peak hours" - do panels generate electricity in off peak hours? i.e. if I have a panel that generates 5 amps, and peak hours are 4 hours, thats 20 amp hours a day. what about say the other 6 to 8 hours of sun? how much would be generated during an entire 12 hour day if the panel does 5 amps? I assume it loses like 1/2 or 1 1/4 depending on time?
Hi Jeff,, Big Fan ‼️ How much Solar and Battery Power would I need to convert a 25,000 lbs Gulfstar 44 Diesel powered boot to 2 Elco 100 Motors with a Generator backup. Hope You and your family had a Great Holiday Season ‼️
Thanks for the good wishes. Sizing a battery bank will depend on the cruising range and also the amount of daily loads you'll be running. Setting aside the propulsion requirement, a GulfStar 44 would require between 400 - 1200 amp-hours at 12 VDC of battery capacity.
Nope, most controllers don't have a fuse in the controller. As long as the start of the circuit is fused for the wire and the controller, you are OK with one fuse.
@@PacificYachtSystems So if most don't, you're okay with adding one? If some manufacturers use a fuse, it is important! So, how should one decide on the fuse value between the CC and the panel? Depending on the maximum of the cable can take or the maximum amperage of the panel +/- 20% or the maximum that the CC can take +/- 20%? If the rule is to protect the cable, then with 10awg, the fuse should be in 30 and 40 amps turn depending on the length of the cable. But since the energy of the panel is limited this raises reflection. Of course, without forgetting the fuse directly to the battery 😉
Potentially dumb question :) I am installing the B&G v60-B VHF with integrated AIS which is currently on the unswitched circuit. I need to add a VHF splitter for AIS, but I don't want the splitter on all the time, so it should be switched. However I also don't want to require two steps when turning on the radio to turn on the splitter as well. Is there a way to only power on the splitter when the VHF is powered on? Like a relay or something that recognizes current flowing? The splitter does have a yellow power control wire which I think can be used for this purpose.
Hi Eric, great question. I'd have both the VHF radio and the splitter powered by one breaker that is powered from the unswitched battery side. In other words, even with the main battery switch off, then you could turn on the VHF/Splitter breaker and both items would now connected to battery.
@@PacificYachtSystems thanks Jeff! A bit new to electric and of course I mixed up my terminology. I didnt mean unswitched, rather that VHF is on the switched side but rather on the fuse block and not on the dc panel (where i dont have an open slot that could be just for vhf) guessing adding a switch somewhere is still the best option? Thanks for the advice, your seminars, diagrams, and videos, they have been tremendously helpful!
Hi Jeff. I recently installed a Victron 75/15 with bluetooth. I understand that ideally this is unswitched, but the bluetooth sometimes gets confused and you can't connect with Victron Connect without depowering the controller completely and reseting it. I don't want to disconnect leads to do this. How would you solve this?
Hi Bill, I know and feel your pain, Bluetooth on boats is far from reliable. Not sure how how you can reset the MPPT 75/15 controller without toggling power to the device.
I'm not sure why Jeff doesn't mention this, perhaps because it's from the RV world but NEC code is to have a dual pole disconnect between the solar panels and the controller. You can look up Nate at Explorist Life TH-cam channel, he is doing a step by step solar installation series for RVs, the similarities between RV and boats are numerous. I've had the same problem with my victron controller needing to be reset and you're not supposed to shut off the battery connection if there's still solar panels connected. This service disconnect is perfect for disconnecting the panels first and then the battery side with a circuit breaker to reset the victron controller. Most of us are using a din rail dual pole DC breaker from Amazon for $15-20 US.
Hi Jeff, On to the solar project :) ... in one of your older solar boat show talks you mentioned that on your own boat you use 1 MPPT per panel and showed a photo using a fuse block th-cam.com/video/ghSG8xMhv4g/w-d-xo.html to fuse and join the solar controllers is this still how you would do it given the option versus parallel or series wiring?
I f your using a controller for every panel..If you have four controllers.Can you run the four battery wires to a junction post,then one wire to the battery
I think I see know.On a six fuse block,I would hook all four controllers to four different fuses.Then one wire from there to the battery.Thank you.it will look a lot nicer that way to
![[BAEMON NEWS 7] NEW ALBUM COMING IN](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wtVeAPimOyo/mqdefault.jpg)
Accurate, straight to the point, and presented in a clear manner. THANK YOU!
Thanks for both the HOW and WHY!
Keep those diagrams forthcoming.
You got it!
Thanks for this! Just bought my first (non dinghy) sailboat. It came with a solar panel and I just got a second flexible panel today. Needed this!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for another clear and concise video, very much appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
Love your videos. With all fuses to be at or close to the battery it must look like a log jam. This might be a stupid question but here it is anyway. Is it possible to fuse the house battery with in 7 inches then run to a positive bus bar then run all charging loads to it and fuse at that location? Thanks
Thank you Jeff.
Your welcome Mike.
All great content. Much appreciated.
Much appreciated!
Hi Jeff, what would be the size of that fuse at the battery (200W/12V=16.6 so a 20A fuse)? Also what type of fuse (slow/fast, maxi/ATO)?. Thanks excellent information!
Hi Jeff. As always thanks! You may have answered this before but I am moving my panels on to a Bimini this spring and thus doing some wiring. Some people in my harbour put a switch in to disconnect the panel’s from the controller. I had understood this is not a good idea. However if it is...wise to do vs disconnecting at the solar panel - could u do or replay what we should do and basics on how and where. Many thanks, your tips are awesome.
I have the same question regarding a solar panel isolation switch. A well known website says that this is a useful addition but alarm bells are ringing in my ear and I don’t know why. Can you please advise? Much appreciated!
Good question. 1st) we always install a fuse on the solar circuit at the battery, to protect the wires 2nd) we normally don't wire a on/off switch on the solar circuits, because we are concerned that someone may disconnect the solar circuit when it's charging. Curious to know what other folks are doing?
@@PacificYachtSystems Your answer is based on a potential error which is not fatal only causing there to be no load and not creating a system malfunction. Besides the risk of forgetting to put the switch to ON, there is no contraindication. I install 2-pole braker which allows me to switch off without danger if I have to make changes.
@@ThinKkBIGG exactly what I do, the service disconnect done that way is perfect for that application and relatively inexpensive.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you for the great fuse explanation. Because we have an aluminum boat we want to switch the circuit off when it's not charging. Where would you put the on off switch?
I need to charge a 22-240v max 100w😊 chest freezer using solar panels on our boat. I know I need an inverter and battery(ies) but that’s as much as I know. Is this the best place to come for advice or could you point me in the right direction for advice. Thank you so much 😀
Always helpful. Thank you.
My pleasure!
So what do you do if the charge controller you have has no internal fuse? At the point of the CC you size the fuse according to the cable or the maximum input capacity in amps of the CC?
Because, I've seen people put 300w or more of the panel on a 10 amp charge controller to make sure you get the maximum load charge controller. There is then a risk of exceeding the limit even if the panels are not all placed on the same side in the same way. What do you think? What would be your advice?
When sizing a fuse for a solar array, you need to make sure that both the wires from battery to controller and from controller to solar can handle the amperage from the array. Also, you need to make sure the solar controller is sized to handle the solar array output. Then, you fuse the wire and controller at the battery so that you don't have nuisance tripping.
@@PacificYachtSystems I agree. But when the CC has no fuse, when the panel is matched to the power the CC can handle, then you fuse at the CC depending on the cable or the panel? If it's 10 awg, do you put 30A in it or do you put a 15A for a 10A panel? We are in 12v ...
Because remember you say we don't need a solar panel fuse. The 2 reasons you name is that the panel capacity is limited vs a battery and also in another example that in the CC well there is a built-in fuse. This clearly indicates that if the manufacturer includes a fuse, it is important. So when there aren't any, this takes rules clear for a good size the fuse.
My example earlier was a little different from the subject and we would have to answer according to a regular system and calibrated according to regular situations.
@@PacificYachtSystems Hi Jeff! I just contacted a charge controler manufacturer a second time. The answer was that if we exceed the amperage of the solar panel, e.g .: CC 10a and panel 20a, then there is no risk of damaging the CC. The only thing it will do is I will need less sun to reach 10a. It will take as much as it can, 10a, and the rest will not cause overheating. So in one example, it may be a good strategy according to them that saves the cost of buying multiple CCs and combining panels in multiple directions.
Hi Jeff, thank you for the great information. I don't know if you covered this already but here's my question. I want to be able to remove the solar and wind from my deck and stow it in the cabin in a high wind event. I would like to have quality deck plugs so I could just unplug and stow. Is there some good plugs or do you recommend thru wires?
Hmmm, the solar panels have MC4 connectors which are weatherproof and easy to connect and disconnect. Not sure about the wind turbine.
Hi, I watched many of your videos, and follow you on youtube. Can you please explain how to wire the charging system to engine start battery, house 12v battery and a Li battery for the 120VAC inverter , utilizing the alternator, shore power and solar. Thank you.
I'm curious. I see solar calculators that say "peak hours" - do panels generate electricity in off peak hours? i.e. if I have a panel that generates 5 amps, and peak hours are 4 hours, thats 20 amp hours a day. what about say the other 6 to 8 hours of sun? how much would be generated during an entire 12 hour day if the panel does 5 amps? I assume it loses like 1/2 or 1 1/4 depending on time?
Hi Jeff,, Big Fan ‼️ How much Solar and Battery Power would I need to convert a 25,000 lbs Gulfstar 44 Diesel powered boot to 2 Elco 100 Motors with a Generator backup. Hope You and your family had a Great Holiday Season ‼️
Thanks for the good wishes.
Sizing a battery bank will depend on the cruising range and also the amount of daily loads you'll be running. Setting aside the propulsion requirement, a GulfStar 44 would require between 400 - 1200 amp-hours at 12 VDC of battery capacity.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you
if my charge controler don't have a fuse between the solar panel and the charger do I need to add one
Nope, most controllers don't have a fuse in the controller. As long as the start of the circuit is fused for the wire and the controller, you are OK with one fuse.
@@PacificYachtSystems So if most don't, you're okay with adding one? If some manufacturers use a fuse, it is important!
So, how should one decide on the fuse value between the CC and the panel?
Depending on the maximum of the cable can take or the maximum amperage of the panel +/- 20% or the maximum that the CC can take +/- 20%?
If the rule is to protect the cable, then with 10awg, the fuse should be in 30 and 40 amps turn depending on the length of the cable.
But since the energy of the panel is limited this raises reflection.
Of course, without forgetting the fuse directly to the battery 😉
Potentially dumb question :)
I am installing the B&G v60-B VHF with integrated AIS which is currently on the unswitched circuit.
I need to add a VHF splitter for AIS, but I don't want the splitter on all the time, so it should be switched.
However I also don't want to require two steps when turning on the radio to turn on the splitter as well.
Is there a way to only power on the splitter when the VHF is powered on? Like a relay or something that recognizes current flowing?
The splitter does have a yellow power control wire which I think can be used for this purpose.
Hi Eric, great question. I'd have both the VHF radio and the splitter powered by one breaker that is powered from the unswitched battery side. In other words, even with the main battery switch off, then you could turn on the VHF/Splitter breaker and both items would now connected to battery.
@@PacificYachtSystems thanks Jeff!
A bit new to electric and of course I mixed up my terminology.
I didnt mean unswitched, rather that VHF is on the switched side but rather on the fuse block and not on the dc panel (where i dont have an open slot that could be just for vhf) guessing adding a switch somewhere is still the best option?
Thanks for the advice, your seminars, diagrams, and videos, they have been tremendously helpful!
Solar panels - weed in parallel vs series: which set up suffers less negative impact in terms of output when there is partial shading?
With partial shading, going with parallel is better then series.
Hi Jeff. I recently installed a Victron 75/15 with bluetooth. I understand that ideally this is unswitched, but the bluetooth sometimes gets confused and you can't connect with Victron Connect without depowering the controller completely and reseting it. I don't want to disconnect leads to do this. How would you solve this?
Hi Bill, I know and feel your pain, Bluetooth on boats is far from reliable. Not sure how how you can reset the MPPT 75/15 controller without toggling power to the device.
I'm not sure why Jeff doesn't mention this, perhaps because it's from the RV world but NEC code is to have a dual pole disconnect between the solar panels and the controller. You can look up Nate at Explorist Life TH-cam channel, he is doing a step by step solar installation series for RVs, the similarities between RV and boats are numerous. I've had the same problem with my victron controller needing to be reset and you're not supposed to shut off the battery connection if there's still solar panels connected. This service disconnect is perfect for disconnecting the panels first and then the battery side with a circuit breaker to reset the victron controller. Most of us are using a din rail dual pole DC breaker from Amazon for $15-20 US.
Hi Jeff,
On to the solar project :) ... in one of your older solar boat show talks you mentioned that on your own boat you use 1 MPPT per panel and showed a photo using a fuse block th-cam.com/video/ghSG8xMhv4g/w-d-xo.html to fuse and join the solar controllers is this still how you would do it given the option versus parallel or series wiring?
I f your using a controller for every panel..If you have four controllers.Can you run the four battery wires to a junction post,then one wire to the battery
Instead of a junction post, consider a fuse block so each controller as a fuse.
@@PacificYachtSystems after the fuse block,can I put all four wires to a junction post.And then one thick wire to the battery
I think I see know.On a six fuse block,I would hook all four controllers to four different fuses.Then one wire from there to the battery.Thank you.it will look a lot nicer that way to
💯
Thanks Javier.