Hey dudes, I hope everybody digs the project! Thanks for checking it out! Free plans are at the link below. www.buildsomething.com/plans/P1E4E9230F5D9A093/Router-Table-w-Tons-of-Storage---WoodWorkLIFE What is your favorite piece of shop furniture?
*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*
It appears that you may have left out the "yellow" drawer bottoms? I thought the purple pieces were them. I was confused but I figured it out. Unless it's somewhere else on the cut list? I appreciate the project! I too have the Kreg router table, and this is THE way to go!
Have some pride in your work.. There is nothing better than having a customer come to your shop and have a look at top quality work! You keep saying its just shop furniture... Build it right once!!
Nice job Rick! I really like the added HF dust collection. I am the same way, as little dust as possible in the shop wherever possible! Keep it up and great work man.
Dust collection: at 10:45 or so, it looked like you had the fence mostly closed and well behind the bearing on the router bit. As a result, lots of chips were thrown against the fence and bounced off. If you had the fence closer to the bit, or more open, you'd probably have better table-top dust collection results. Thanks for posting the build. Came out nice.
I was doing miters with a guide bearing so I needed a little bit of space to operate. The fence was opened wider than the 2 1/2” hose, but I think there is still some fine tuning to do with the setup and use of this guy. Thanks for watching!
I’m doing exactly the same thing in my shop this summer. A router table cabinet is on my “must do” list. You vertical drawers look very interesting. I’ll have to consider that as a possibility in my design. I just finished an outfeed table and some clamp racks for my Rockler Bandy Clamps and large spring clamps. They allow me to take the whole set of clamps to where they are needed in the shop. The videos are on my WB Fine Woodworking TH-cam channel.
Awesome man! I’ll check it out! Lots more to do this summer, hoping to knock out some of the shop projects in between all the builds I have going on...overbooked again!
Nice job on the table. I have to give you crap though... level the feet on your table saw for god sake man! I like the idea of the vertical draws with french cleats. I scored a older lift and fence with dust collection from a thrift store for 30 bucks! new in the box. looking for ideas on a cabinet. I might shorten the verticles on this and make the bottom draw full length to store some of my table saw stuff down there (it has no drawers). Might do something similar with the level blocks and top. Make the top from MDF and find a off cut of laminate from a counter top for it. Maybe from a counter top shop if I can find one.
Thanks buddy, ya my saw is leveled my floor however is a mess so it still does rock. I need a cabinet saw rather than a contractor saw TBH for what I do most of the time, but this thing works. If you shot your table saw on video, you would probably see that it moves too. I like your idea for the cabinet, I can't wait to see it finished, tag me if you post any pics online I am @thewoodworklife on IG and FB
@@WoodWorkLIFE Yea... My garage floor has a few low spots. I bet it would move a bit if I filmed it, but I way to lazy for that! So thanks I know filming and editing likely consumes a ton of time. I also have a contractors saw. Older craftsman 113 model. I inherited it when my father passed. I enjoy building things with it. I have to move it around my shop/garage, but keep it in a certain spot when I work with it so I set the legs to that spot. There is a large paint spot right there so I know were to put the leg. I don't notice any wiggle. I put it at the edge of my garage so it spit the dust out the door, but it never works! no collect yet. The back is open and its horrible, but don't really have the floor space for the foot print of a cabinet saw yet ( a guy and dream right?). Router table first. Then on the to the collection cart and vacuum set up. Wife bought me a ton of stuff this Christmas (new dewalt router w/plunge base and 735 planer w/ gift card to HD for router bits) and expects projects..... for her craft room. Shelving and table.
Hey bud, just got these plans off of Kreg.com, unfortuanately most plans are built to mount to walls, but thats kind of hard to do when you rent instead of own a home. But on that same point, I think I might hae come up with a variation. I'll let you know when I get it built... Love the vids, very informative and down to earth. Thanks
Thanks bud. Ya this one is standalone. I am too afraid of commitment to mount everything to my walls. Plus then I can never clean the sawdust from underneath.
What did the total height including fence and casters end up being also did you use 3 in. casters. I have limited storage space this would be stored under shelving 40 in. above floor level. thanks
I still have to reach under there to turn it on. I tried a variable speed switch but the new digital motors don't work with the variable voltage switches so I haven't messed with it yet.
Hi, I love the table and am planning to build it and have purchased the lift but have since found out that neither of my exisiting routers can be installed, what make of router did you use?
My shop (aka the other half of my garage) is a damn mess. I have a Bosch router table and wish I never got it. Oh well. I’m building base for it now and wish I had a table more like this one.
I like the router table and am thinking of building it. But, you make no mention of the support struts which are a part of the Kreg router table and you did not make your cutout in the top big enough to accommodate them. Can I assume you left them off because you believe the top is adequate support for the Kreg table without them?
@@WoodWorkLIFE A couple of other plan/.video inconsistencies: In the plans the standard drawers are constructed with one end flush with the sides (5-3/4") while the other end overlaps the edge of the 1/2" drawer bottom (6-1/4"). The cutting diagram does not make this entirely clear. But, in the video, both ends of the drawer are flush with the sides and the bottom overlaps both ends. Both ends are are 5-3/4" I assume. Which method is preferred? The other issue is interference between the Kreg's fence mounting bracket on the bottom of the Kreg table and the cabinet top. The Kreg Table is 32" wide while the cabinet top is 30" wide leaving 1" overhang on each side. However, the Kreg fence mounting bracket protrudes 1-1/4" in from the bottom edge of the Kreg table creating a 1/4" interference. I will probably relieve the cabinet top locally for the bracket as you did for the leveling brackets.
Nice build... but what I really want to know is, how do you keep your mask from fogging up your safety glasses. It's so bad with mine that I find myself not using one or the other.
Looks nice, but at a cost of $800 for all the bits and pieces... I'd just get a shaper for that amount of money. I know this was sponsored for you, and kreig makes good stuff, just expensive.
I'm almost finished building this solid table but have discovered a serious flaw in the design. The specified drawer slides are not designed to be used in a horizontal mode as in this design. These slides need to be mounted vertically to carry any load. Just look at how they are mounted in the "Jackman Drawer Video that you reference. I'm going to modify the vertical drawers so the slides are mounted on the sides of the vertical partitions attaching to the edges of the drawers.
@@WoodWorkLIFE I redesigned the drawers with the slides reoriented vertically. and made the modifications. It works great! I highly recommend the modification. I'm not sure how to post my new design. I don't use Instagram, etc.
if you put the pocket holes for your drawers on the front and back, they will never be seen (front covered by false front, back facing into the cabinet). Go watch Brad @ Fix This Build That, he has a great drawer build methodology that takes no additional time, and you get perfect drawers every time. It even accounts for undersized (all) plywood.
An afterthought... Having bits at the ready isn't like changing spray heads or socket wrench sizes. I was about to build a tray in lieu of drawers and realized that my current box of assorted bits holds them in an appropriate manner, i.e., upright & ready to go with a silhouette of each one's cut. Why would anyone need fancy (or otherwise) drawers and/or slides to put bits 'in your hand' when using two different bits a day probably does THE job, whatever it is?
Mainly because shop storage is at a premium in my garage workshop. Inuse one drawer for bits (throne right under the sawdust compartment) then the rest is just general shop storage. No wasted space.
at 7:34, you'll see why I don't like the pocket hole attachments. Face is not tightly secured to the drawer side. Many times the screw torques the wood away from square. I know you'll say that it's only "shop furniture" but you play like you practice. Not judging, just saying.
Totally get it, I say it's just shop furniture because I want it to go together quickly not because I necessarily want it to be poo poo. If I would have jointed the boards it would've gone smoother.
It just echos of kids furniture and it is pourous as heck. There has to be a least favorite of everything, red oak it that to me. Which is weird, because white oak is one of my favorite woods.
FYI, you forgot to link the Matthias video on drawer strength. Here it is: th-cam.com/video/co3EH8WZsX8/w-d-xo.html. That video showed that while the groove is stronger, both are so ridiculously strong that your drawer slides are far more likely to be the limiting factor in strength and longevity. Seems like a lot of needless work in cutting/assembly to add groves into drawers IMO, even in fine furniture work.
Why in the world did you butcher that perfectly good drawer by running it through the table saw?? If all you wanted was to flush the base to the sides you could have used a $15 flush trim router bit.
I cut it too wide, just had to trim off a bit so it fit snug. If it were a kitchen drawer or something in the house I would've redone it. For shop projects I just trimmed a bit off.
![YOU Should Build This Router Table.. [Free Plans!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_Fp-xH7Bsys/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey dudes, I hope everybody digs the project! Thanks for checking it out! Free plans are at the link below.
www.buildsomething.com/plans/P1E4E9230F5D9A093/Router-Table-w-Tons-of-Storage---WoodWorkLIFE
What is your favorite piece of shop furniture?
Hey nice job.i wanted knw what is the name of song at de end of the show if u have time
*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*
The last tip in video is great 😃 & so it the build. Thanks for making the video and sharing your idea.
Bravo , super job .
Thanks, did you pick up the free plans on Buildsomething.com?
I love that you wanted to spruce up your shop furniture to be nicer and used you're least favorite wood. Table looks great!
It will always be there to inspire me to do better.
I hope you stabilized your table saw!!!! Nice table....I like Kreg stuff myself as well
It appears that you may have left out the "yellow" drawer bottoms? I thought the purple pieces were them. I was confused but I figured it out. Unless it's somewhere else on the cut list? I appreciate the project! I too have the Kreg router table, and this is THE way to go!
Have some pride in your work.. There is nothing better than having a customer come to your shop and have a look at top quality work! You keep saying its just shop furniture... Build it right once!!
Ya, I am going that way from now on...just you wait
Thank you for providing a step by step build. Love how you are honest with your opinion of certain speices of wood. thank you.
Thanks dude! Welcome to the channel.
Nice job Rick! I really like the added HF dust collection. I am the same way, as little dust as possible in the shop wherever possible! Keep it up and great work man.
Thanks dude, love the latest video! Did you upload the plans to buildsomething?
Yes I did Rick! Its doing pretty well!
Dude I'm just getting into wood work stuff and this is right up my alley not to complicated just takes practice. I subscribe and like.
That is all it is, 4Ps Practices, precision, patience, and more practice
How does widening the opening by "an inch on either side" save you from accommodating the leveling feet?
Nice video mate ;)
Thanks buddy! It was a fun one to make too.
Nicely done Rick! 👍👊
Jackman Drawers baby!!
btw, I think you need to replace that lexan with some acrylic embedded with wire mesh haha
We don't all have access to DiResta's stash of Area 51 grade secret materials Paul...don't rub it in :) Love ya dude, keep up the good work.
Dust collection: at 10:45 or so, it looked like you had the fence mostly closed and well behind the bearing on the router bit. As a result, lots of chips were thrown against the fence and bounced off. If you had the fence closer to the bit, or more open, you'd probably have better table-top dust collection results.
Thanks for posting the build. Came out nice.
I was doing miters with a guide bearing so I needed a little bit of space to operate. The fence was opened wider than the 2 1/2” hose, but I think there is still some fine tuning to do with the setup and use of this guy. Thanks for watching!
I’m doing exactly the same thing in my shop this summer. A router table cabinet is on my “must do” list. You vertical drawers look very interesting. I’ll have to consider that as a possibility in my design. I just finished an outfeed table and some clamp racks for my Rockler Bandy Clamps and large spring clamps. They allow me to take the whole set of clamps to where they are needed in the shop. The videos are on my WB Fine Woodworking TH-cam channel.
Awesome man! I’ll check it out! Lots more to do this summer, hoping to knock out some of the shop projects in between all the builds I have going on...overbooked again!
Great Video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Nice job! I have the same need to get organized. Can’t wait to see more.
Thanks Tony!
I have watched the build video several times and have not seen where the 1/2 ply is used. I am guessing for the back of the cabinet?
yes, sorry. Didn't catch that.
Awesome as always! 👍🏻
Nice build, but one note, being a rotary tool, the fence doesn't need to self squaring. It doesn't follow the requirements as a table saw fence.
Nice job on the table. I have to give you crap though... level the feet on your table saw for god sake man! I like the idea of the vertical draws with french cleats. I scored a older lift and fence with dust collection from a thrift store for 30 bucks! new in the box. looking for ideas on a cabinet. I might shorten the verticles on this and make the bottom draw full length to store some of my table saw stuff down there (it has no drawers). Might do something similar with the level blocks and top. Make the top from MDF and find a off cut of laminate from a counter top for it. Maybe from a counter top shop if I can find one.
Thanks buddy, ya my saw is leveled my floor however is a mess so it still does rock. I need a cabinet saw rather than a contractor saw TBH for what I do most of the time, but this thing works. If you shot your table saw on video, you would probably see that it moves too. I like your idea for the cabinet, I can't wait to see it finished, tag me if you post any pics online I am @thewoodworklife on IG and FB
@@WoodWorkLIFE Yea... My garage floor has a few low spots. I bet it would move a bit if I filmed it, but I way to lazy for that! So thanks I know filming and editing likely consumes a ton of time. I also have a contractors saw. Older craftsman 113 model. I inherited it when my father passed. I enjoy building things with it. I have to move it around my shop/garage, but keep it in a certain spot when I work with it so I set the legs to that spot. There is a large paint spot right there so I know were to put the leg. I don't notice any wiggle. I put it at the edge of my garage so it spit the dust out the door, but it never works! no collect yet. The back is open and its horrible, but don't really have the floor space for the foot print of a cabinet saw yet ( a guy and dream right?). Router table first. Then on the to the collection cart and vacuum set up. Wife bought me a ton of stuff this Christmas (new dewalt router w/plunge base and 735 planer w/ gift card to HD for router bits) and expects projects..... for her craft room. Shelving and table.
Hey bud, just got these plans off of Kreg.com, unfortuanately most plans are built to mount to walls, but thats kind of hard to do when you rent instead of own a home. But on that same point, I think I might hae come up with a variation. I'll let you know when I get it built... Love the vids, very informative and down to earth. Thanks
Thanks bud. Ya this one is standalone. I am too afraid of commitment to mount everything to my walls. Plus then I can never clean the sawdust from underneath.
What did the total height including fence and casters end up being also did you use 3 in. casters. I have limited storage space this would be stored under shelving 40 in. above floor level. thanks
With the fence it's right at 40, but I used 3" casters.
Another cool build. What were those amazing blue clamps with the stretchy bands? I've never seen those before.
Those were Rockler bandy clamps, you should check them out. Huge help around the shop.
At £24 for a pair of smallish ones, think i,ll give those a miss
Where/how did you mount the switch? Thanks!
I still have to reach under there to turn it on. I tried a variable speed switch but the new digital motors don't work with the variable voltage switches so I haven't messed with it yet.
question... Did you install the dust collection port in the bottom or back? How well did it work?
It's on the back, it does ok. The vac gets most of the chips up top this mainly gives it negative pressure so chips don't fly everywhere up top.
Hi, I love the table and am planning to build it and have purchased the lift but have since found out that neither of my exisiting routers can be installed, what make of router did you use?
I used a porter cable router with it.
You should really clamp before driving PH screws as the tend to make the joint slide when tightening. You can see this happening at about 14:32.
Noted
My shop (aka the other half of my garage) is a damn mess. I have a Bosch router table and wish I never got it. Oh well. I’m building base for it now and wish I had a table more like this one.
I like the router table and am thinking of building it. But, you make no mention of the support struts which are a part of the Kreg router table and you did not make your cutout in the top big enough to accommodate them. Can I assume you left them off because you believe the top is adequate support for the Kreg table without them?
No need for struts when it is sitting on a solid base.
@@WoodWorkLIFE
A couple of other plan/.video inconsistencies:
In the plans the standard drawers are constructed with one end flush with the sides (5-3/4") while the other end overlaps the edge of the 1/2" drawer bottom (6-1/4"). The cutting diagram does not make this entirely clear. But, in the video, both ends of the drawer are flush with the sides and the bottom overlaps both ends. Both ends are are 5-3/4" I assume. Which method is preferred?
The other issue is interference between the Kreg's fence mounting bracket on the bottom of the Kreg table and the cabinet top. The Kreg Table is 32" wide while the cabinet top is 30" wide leaving 1" overhang on each side. However, the Kreg fence mounting bracket protrudes 1-1/4" in from the bottom edge of the Kreg table creating a 1/4" interference. I will probably relieve the cabinet top locally for the bracket as you did for the leveling brackets.
Nice build... but what I really want to know is, how do you keep your mask from fogging up your safety glasses. It's so bad with mine that I find myself not using one or the other.
Haven't found a solution for that as of yet
Looks nice, but at a cost of $800 for all the bits and pieces... I'd just get a shaper for that amount of money. I know this was sponsored for you, and kreig makes good stuff, just expensive.
I'm almost finished building this solid table but have discovered a serious flaw in the design. The specified drawer slides are not designed to be used in a horizontal mode as in this design. These slides need to be mounted vertically to carry any load. Just look at how they are mounted in the "Jackman Drawer Video that you reference. I'm going to modify the vertical drawers so the slides are mounted on the sides of the vertical partitions attaching to the edges of the drawers.
They worked for me, although have limited weight capacity.
Please share photos of the completed design. I'd appreciate feedback on their operation.
@@WoodWorkLIFE I redesigned the drawers with the slides reoriented vertically. and made the modifications. It works great! I highly recommend the modification. I'm not sure how to post my new design. I don't use Instagram, etc.
if you put the pocket holes for your drawers on the front and back, they will never be seen (front covered by false front, back facing into the cabinet). Go watch Brad @ Fix This Build That, he has a great drawer build methodology that takes no additional time, and you get perfect drawers every time. It even accounts for undersized (all) plywood.
An afterthought... Having bits at the ready isn't like changing spray heads or socket wrench sizes. I was about to build a tray in lieu of drawers and realized that my current box of assorted bits holds them in an appropriate manner, i.e., upright & ready to go with a silhouette of each one's cut. Why would anyone need fancy (or otherwise) drawers and/or slides to put bits 'in your hand' when using two different bits a day probably does THE job, whatever it is?
Mainly because shop storage is at a premium in my garage workshop. Inuse one drawer for bits (throne right under the sawdust compartment) then the rest is just general shop storage. No wasted space.
at 7:34, you'll see why I don't like the pocket hole attachments. Face is not tightly secured to the drawer side. Many times the screw torques the wood away from square. I know you'll say that it's only "shop furniture" but you play like you practice. Not judging, just saying.
Totally get it, I say it's just shop furniture because I want it to go together quickly not because I necessarily want it to be poo poo. If I would have jointed the boards it would've gone smoother.
Nice
Thanks dude!
Don’t condemn red Oak just because you don’t like it. some people may desire it. any wood can be made to look nice and function great.
It just echos of kids furniture and it is pourous as heck. There has to be a least favorite of everything, red oak it that to me. Which is weird, because white oak is one of my favorite woods.
Here in Brazil the tools is very very very very expansive ! =(
FYI, you forgot to link the Matthias video on drawer strength. Here it is: th-cam.com/video/co3EH8WZsX8/w-d-xo.html.
That video showed that while the groove is stronger, both are so ridiculously strong that your drawer slides are far more likely to be the limiting factor in strength and longevity. Seems like a lot of needless work in cutting/assembly to add groves into drawers IMO, even in fine furniture work.
Thanks brother! Matthias is such a wealth of knowledge. I’ll make sure to add the link!
Colin McLeod, If you're using solid wood yes. Plywood is dimensionally stable enough it shouldn't be a problem at these sizes.
👍
Why in the world did you butcher that perfectly good drawer by running it through the table saw?? If all you wanted was to flush the base to the sides you could have used a $15 flush trim router bit.
I cut it too wide, just had to trim off a bit so it fit snug. If it were a kitchen drawer or something in the house I would've redone it. For shop projects I just trimmed a bit off.
personally i don't like pocket holes, there a bit of a nasty hack cheat, and not true woodwork.
understandable