@@sumduma55 It is just the way she says drawer. She says draws. It is just her way of saying it. Good stuff as we all say things differently. No speech impediment just Tamar.
I love this project! one suggestion on the dust collection: flip your door so that the slots are on the bottom, and the collector will pull air across that bottom shelf and help keep dust there to a minimum. It's already catching the fine stuff that doesn't make it, just needs a little help sweeping up the slightly bigger pieces. When they get to the bottom of that cabinet there's no air movement there to sweep them away.
@@3x3CustomTamar I think the real issue is the location of your lower dust port. Since its at the top the heavier larger chips fall to the bottom, you basically built a dust separator. On most commercial router boxes the outlet is at the bottom of the box. What you did totally works and as long as you keep after it occasionally still a good solution but large chips will collect in the bottom if you dont move the port down lower.
I appreciate that you work with (and openly share) “workarounds” based on what you have in your shop (i.e., no dado). Many of us, myself included, have similar constraints.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Nice design, suggest moving the dust port to the bottom and slope the bottom down front to back. Gravity is your friend when you don't fight it. Also finish the dust compartment nice and smooth so dust and chips move freely. By having the dust port high its effectively like a dust deputy separating the dust from the chips.
Looks good ! Moving the dust box vent to bottom of box would increase removal of large chunks (with hole at top it is acting like a separator leaving the large stuff 'separated' .) There are better vented insert plates (router cutter bit insert plate) , some by Incra or just modified with extra holes ) to increase air flow .
Exactly what I did too plus the angle plate after experimenting with the proper angle with some cardboard. Also put a furring strip around the door with foam gasket and magnets to keep the door closed...also used a piano hinge to help alignment over time. You can also add some small baffles to direct the airflow to the port keeping in mind most routers exhaust from the bit side. Note I'm only using a shop vac and HD separator bucket with 2.5" hose...works great. Great job Tamar, you can always tweak it after using it awhile!!
I built much the same cabinet a few years back and put the dust port at the bottom with the bottom angled down slightly from the front and a couple of angled side pieces as Dogwood Tales mentioned.
Great project as usual. I use draw as well, picked it up from years of watching This Old House and New Yankee Workshop with my grandfather. Norm would be proud that you are carrying it to a new generation
Right! It’s not that rare of an accent. Someone even thought it was a speech impediment! 🤣 I’m glad you have a good sense of humor about all these unworldly people :) who’ve never heard something from Long Island or New England speak before. I think some Brits say “draw” too.
@@3x3CustomTamar I first noticed in in another video and thought more so that is was just another thing I didn't know about as I'm new to woodworking. After a couple failed google searches for "woodworking DRAWS" and hearing you use it in a couple more videos, I was able to use context clues to figure out what you meant. I felt so dumb/silly afterwards. lol
Not going to lie, I didn’t immediately comment on the pronunciation of “drawers” because I wanted to be sensitive in the event that it WAS an impediment! 😄 However, after I listened to you capably pronounce other words with “r” endings (four, more, quarter), I determined it was an east coast accent. I’m sure I’ve heard it in other videos of yours, but I think “draw” was every 5th word in this vid. 😉 I don’t understand how one can properly 😉 pronounce “four” and “quarter” but not “drawer,” but I’m sure people have similar questions about much of my Euro-accented English vocab! Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
The way you explained how to get the correct width for the drawer fronts and backs is one of the best I have heard. Everybody usually rushes thought that spot, or skips over it. Thank you
"I literally just had it..." That's basically 90% of my time in my shop. Anyhow, absolutely love ALL of the content you put out. I have learned so much from you!
You are amazing! You explain everything in great depth and are also not afraid to show your mistakes, which takes even more courage to show how you can improve.
Well done that's one good looking router table you've built. You could also shorten the door and put a dust drawer below the router that could be emptied when done routering.
Long time since I watched you on YT. Seeing that Triton plunge saw and your table saw are an excellent brake on my mouse as I was getting sucked towards Makita, then Mafell and Festool packages including saw, track, boxes, and dust extractor vacuum with the new Festool small table saw. Thanks from the bottom of my bank account. On getting children to eat veg. I cracked that with my son about 25 years ago by sweating/toasting chopped brassicas, peas, green beans, etc, in olive oil with a bit of salt and chilli flakes. Suddenly, he started hoovering them up. Turning 20, he introduced his no-greens drama college friends to the idea, along with freshly caught gurnard from the sea. They also hoovered it up. Steaming with butter and chilli flakes works, too. Now he's doing it with his four children. Oh - while at drama school, he did door to door sales of Hello Fresh in London, UK
I have never heard you say “drawer” until your FAQ video. Then, I watch this one next! Ha! As a Southerner, I empathize with you…people are always making fun of us. 🙂 Great video! Love your process and how you walk through it all.
Love your videos and have built a couple of your projects for my use. When it comes to Router Tables, everybody attaches a dust collection hose to the fence. I wanted my table to roll under my chop saw workbench and didn't want a complicated hose configuration so I went a different direction. My 4 inch dust collector comes up through the bottom of the box the router is in so the chips and dust fall down towards the hose. Since this box like area is directly under the table top, I drilled a 2 inch hole through the top about 1 inch back from the router mounting plate. On the back of my fence I built a box that creates an enclosure/tunnel that extends back over the hole in the table. The way it works is that as the router chips off wood, they fly back through the fence, into the tunnel and fall/get sucked down the hole. It appears to be as successful as the hose/fence method as I hardly have any dust/chips left on the table top. Just an idea that works well and eliminates the need for a hose.
Noticed the diming of the lights when you turned on the dust collection. That means that that there are too much on that line so the wires have difficulty pushing enough Amps. That means that they run a risk of getting too hot during prolonged use at that level. At the moment it's only a problem when the dust collector needs its starting power though it's better to put the dust collector on another fuse than the lights to avoid that issue.
@@3x3CustomTamar An easy and economical (in the monthly bills) fix is change all your bulbs to led's, if you haven't already. One tenth the draw of incandescent and about one fifth the wattage of fluorescent with the same brightness. But, electrician here, he's right about separating the lights. They should be the only thing on their circuit and that's easy to do. That will free up more power for the motors and keep the wiring cooler.
Awesome build. Thank you for sharing. Regarding the bottom vent port, you need a sufficient capture velocity. Not sure the spec on your blower but not exceeding a capture distance of one times the diameter of your duct is a good start (eg 4" from duct port). For your natural draft orifices on your plexiglass, your on the right track on creating a laminar airflow, but the larger the area of openings, the more air is required to keep up the speed. Regarding your duct, I would try to use gravity to your advantage by moving your vent attachment down or use an interior downward shelf. Also reduce the length of flex line to the minimum possible; use pvc or galvanized (something smooth). If your do elect to use the flex line, keep it as taunt as possible to reduce the internal ridges. Avoid any tight or unnecessary turns or bends in airflow.
Okay I'm starting a new drinking game. Every time Tamar says "Draw" we take a shot of liquor. But on a serious note, flip your door so the vent holes are on the bottom. Looks great 👍.
I never noticed her accent until her Q and A video where she talked about pronouncing “drawers”. Now that’s all I can think about! Oh, and I can’t wait to build this for my new router lift. Thank you!
As probably so many of your viewers, I certainly hope you and your family, home and workshop got through that horrible hurricane without to much pain or damage....rr Normandy, Fra.
Congratulations for depicting two smart elements to do the work: get your hardware first and design around it. Also, use the components to generate cut lines without ever measuring.
The remote control for the dust collector is the best thing ever! I have a "Y" attachment to my Harbor freight desk collector. One goes to the table saw, and the other goes to a hose that I can connect to any other thing in the shop. I ended up getting a truck filter because it was less expensive than the canister filters designed for it. It makes a big difference in the dust around the shop. Like $75 versus $250. I just hold it on with a tie down. Food for thought. Great video as usual.
@@3x3CustomTamar I was wondering if the compartment might be to large and that's why there's not enough suction. Or is this just something that in inherent with a router table? Also, I thought it was kind of funny that you used magnets to hold the drawer face but no magnets to keep the door closed. Hmmm? 🤨 Great build, I'm in need of a router table and so far I like this one the best. Of course I will change a few things (I have larger hands) like possibly making the bit trays removable. Might be able to fit 3 per drawer that way. Again, great video and build. Keep up the good work.
I really value your channel on TH-cam! It's one of the few that I feel like I can come to for real pointers and advice. Thanks, for putting yourself out there for all of us plebs, Tamar!
What you could do, is put the outlet hole of the dustcollector at the BOTTOM of the cabinet so that even if you get some dust you can just push it in to the outlet hole and it'll get sucked up.
Agreed, the particals my be too heavy to go out the top wall dust collection port. Flip the hole to the bottom and create a slight funnel to reduce the amount of open space. If your motor isn't strong enough you may also have to empty your collection bag/barrel more often.
Since you mentioned your collector might be too weak I had experimented with the height of the port in the box: cut a elongated hole from top to bottom where you can mount another piece with the port covering the whole hole. Then move this piece up or down until you find the height where you collect the most.
Nice design! I made my router table out of MDF. For the dust collection, I went through a couple of revs but settled on a cool design. I made the cabinet space below the router with a sloped bottom made out of 1/4" melamine. Then I put the dust port at the bottom end of the slope. Now the dust just slides down to the port. I also made the door seal tight so the vacuum pulls more air around the bit and router. Really enjoy you channel - lots of good jigs and techniques.
Love your videos, but this looks just like Jsk-koubous router table 🧐 only noticed because I planned on building it myself 😂. The man deserves his credit
I ALWAYS learn something new from your videos. I especially like your "hack" solutions to problems you encounter along the way - very inspiring! Sincere thanks!
And when we drop something, it's "where, the ...., did that just go?" I did this last night with a tiny 2x8mm pin cut from an old drill bit.. Tried to hold with needle-nose pliers when cutting with the grinder, pliers clipped together, pin vanished instantly, didn't even hear it hit the floor as I was wearing earmuffs.. I'll literally NEVER find it.. lol
@@3x3CustomTamar there's a void they fall into.. possibly a different dimension.. All becomes clear after we die, and we get to spend eternity wandering around looking at all the things we lost over our lives.. 😉
@@tree_carcass_mangler ah yes.. the infamous 10mm socket.. can't recall how many of those I've had to buy over the years.. I guess I'll get them all back when I die.. ;) I'll be the Socket King.. ;)
I enjoy how you show the little flaws and your effort in fixes. Trial and error is how we learn and we need our mentors to show us that these things happen. 👍👍👍
Great project 👍 I'd recommend upgrading your filter bag for a canister filter. Not only is it better for your lungs, but better performance out of the system. Another power increase you could gain is if you run pvc pipe as far as you can, and only use flex hose as short as necessary. Check out Stumpy on TH-cam, he has a great deal of detail about this. But maybe after a move? 😉 Love the remote on the cable! Got a link by any chance?
Those remote boxes burn out quick. I went through two 3 packs already then realized never turn it on and off right away. Wait a about 10sec b4 turning it on again
22:41 easy peasy 😉gust move the vacuum hose to near bottom side it's well clear all drawer but you must close all that hole in perspex glass...nice job Mam
Awesome build Tamar! I'm sure lots of other folks mentioned this, but I had the same issue on my table and found that moving the dust port closer to the bottom of helps as well as putting in mitered pieces to help direct the dust towards to port :)
Did your family members take exception to your “no visibility” policy - at least partly? And as others have noted, Guinness may be contacting you for the most uses of “drawer” per minute as revenge in a video. Congratulations on your FWW article.
Thank you I bought the router table cabinet plan, and the portable work bench got my attention so grabbed that one too. I have watched several of your postings. I just manufactured 8 kitchen cabinet doors and my floppy router table annoyed me I was just going to build one but thanks to you I don't have to draw the plans. Love your guitars I saw in one of your videos, haha I have 5 guitars not allowed to buy more. I built one of those guitar racks but realizing in MA. unless I was running a humidifier/ dehumidifier my guitars needed attention so they are back in their cases with built in humidity meters.. Enough said HaHA Thanks again😎
My guess on the dust collection issue in the main box. It's basically acting like a cyclonic separator. Dust shoots down and then has to change direction and go back upwards to the exit hose. I have a gut feel it would collect more if the hose were at the bottom of the box so it doesn't have to fight gravity so much. Thanks for the build video. Cheers.
Good job T!! So the dust collection issue underneath is because of the level of your dust port. If you lowered it to the bottom of the router housing it would collect much more of your dust. On the commercial dust boxes the port is usually close to the bottom which allows it to pull the dust down and out, your design is allowing it to pull the dust down but not out! Great project and it has inspired me to want to build one for myself.
Nice router cabinet Tamar.👌 Dust collection solution, Milescraft 1501 Dust Router Collection, actually there are several types and brands with some being kits and others as individual pieces, most are less than $100. Basically what you need is a collection cup that fits the underside of the table to coral the dust and chips that are drawn down because of the router motor and bit. Most better quality collection systems have a dual collector setup for top and bottom. 😎 You could make a small triangle pocket on the underside of the table, between the motor head collar and use a plumbing "T" to adapt both collection ports into one common point. Another important factor is to reduce the hose size from that large volume low flow to a typical shop vac size to increase your suction power and speed of airflow for better results.😉 One potential problem with the pocket hole method is the floor plate or bottom of the cabinet, all sides, fronts and backs should always be attached to the top surface because it is the foundation of the cabinet. Depending on how heavy your work will be it may never be an issue, but plywood end grain is not very strong against downward force. If a problem does develop you could easily add a second bottom across the whole cabinet or simply add two solid board runners under the caster wheels and sides of the cabinet to support the whole unit. I have used pocket holes for drop floor cabinets to hide the casters without a skirt seam on the outer finish surface, but the floor is always reinforced with support blocks and is inset into a dado groove along with those pocket screws.😜 Well done!👍 What finish are you going to use on the draw fronts?😁
Your router table i took a fish tank base somone had put in the trash it was metal changed it around some built a box to catch dust out of 1/4" put a plug in the bottom, added a hose connector for dust collection to the bottom, you really don't need anything on the fence the vacume pulls it all out from the bottom. Now I have to make draws for it to hold my router tools and bits. The top is 40" wide by 28" deep 1" thick with a jessem router lift and I added t track for the fence over fence t track for my jessem stock guides and woodpeckers combo t track miter track for a cross cut sled or coping ends. I just need to come up with a jig to stand parts on end to do lock miter joints. If I get it right I can take a 4/4 board and make a endless grain joint on 3 sides of a wall shelf i can add French cleats to so the shelf floats on the wall with nothing holding it on you can see. 5 sides should match as grain is considered. That means I need to make the frt also.
That was a brilliant tuition, lots of great tips, it looks fabulous too. The highest production values, I particularly enjoyed where you dramatically slowed down the speed whilst reaching for the screws.
Seen a video that the guy had the same issue as you do with the dust in the bottom ,he put holes in the back of the cabinet 5 holes about 1 1/2 holes instead of the door you had put slots in your door . His method he made no holes in the door. WHEN he added the holes in the back he had no more dust in his cabinet .also you could add a partial panel in front of the router held by magnets so you have less area to have to remove the dust . It also give you more storage space .love your videos
Suggestion: suction intake at bottom rear of router box and door intake at bottom to create airflow across the bottom of the containment box where the heavies land. I love your vids, your one brilliant gal, thanks for the content, admire your drive and work ethic and quality.
"I literally JUST had it" is a constant mantra in my shop. I have eliminated it related to tape measures by buying a handful of moderately inexpensive versions that are resident in different areas of the shop. this also eliminates the lost tape when someone else in the household borrows it (and of course leaves it). oh yeah - this is a fantastic project. my mind is churning some designs for mine now.
👍I LOVE it. This summer, my health declined, but with cooler weather & a new Kreg Foreman on the way I plan to get building this Fall. My tools are kept inside and carried outside when I build. Not enough good health days have been lining up with good weather days. So, we plan to make room inside for smaller projects before winter. I will need dust solutions. I think your cabinet performed great. Still, I'm not surprised you are striving for perfection; you always share your oops & needed improvements with your audience. I see suggestions in the comments, so, I guess those folks agree that dust collection could be better... Well, I must be easier to please, I was very impressed! The top was spotless and only a teeny bit of saw dust down below. I have a Woodcraft 50 or so miles away and your cut-list looks like much can be broken down in store from economic plywood. Those repeat grain patterned boards can be bothersome, but it looks awesome the way you matched it up on the drawers! I WILL watch your follow up video. But then I am headed to your website to buy these cabinet plans. ~♿Lisa🔨 PS- a question: have you ever cut the grooves for your drawer bottoms into longer boards, before cross cutting it into sides, front & back? I'll be using a hand held router w/straight edge & hoping to save some effort? I've never seen this done on YT; so I'm worried there's a reason for that, a problem I haven't thought of? Thanks.
I built a router station that was very similar to this ( the New Yankee Workshop version) and I had the same problem with dust collection. Works good at the fence but not good underneath the router. Great job. Love your videos.
I suggest changing the position of your back dust port to the bottom of the router enclosure. It looks like the router is blocking the port. If the port was on the bottom of the enclosure, It would suck all or the majority of the dust that ends on the bottom. Also, the plexi door. These slots for the air are great, however, move them to the bottom. That way the air that is sucked in will take the dust towards the dust port at the back. You can also use magnets for the door to stay closed.
I think you read my mind Tamar. This video came out just in time for me to stop planning my own version of a router table and just use yours. Thanks, you rock!
I'm absolutely loving your videos. I'm just looking into starting this hobby; I don't even have a circular saw and I'm learning so much. This is really cool
This is brilliant, so much more space you have there! My ‘workshop’ is crammed into a 6x12 shed, and half of that is storage!! Thank you yet again for sharing
On the acrylic door add a little metal rectangle to top and bottom, then a magnetic stop at each point. Solves the issues and looks better than the wood scrap stops.
Came to comment how well that came out, and kudos etc. Then read the comments. Shouldn't be doing that, it's my own fault. But just to say coming from the UK there is no problem with the way you say "drawer". At least to my ears! Another superb build and given me loads of inspiration so thank you so much! Dom
Hey, I think the dust issue might be due to the fact that the vac port is very high up from where the floor is? I am going to fit mine at the bottom and maybe place some plwood forming a V forcing the dust towards the opening.
nice work . i suggest you look at the position of the vents again. i believe the holes in the router door would work better at the bottom to prevent dust from settling there.
Really nice build Tamar! I recently built a very similar router table and I have the same dust collector (but with a Super Dust Deputy and Wynn Environmental filter). I agree with many other comments on the cause of your dust collection woes. I don't have this issue and the differences, "I believe" are two things 1) my dust collection port is on the back but at the bottom of the compartment with the router, and 2) I let some air in by cracking the door open just a bit (small 1/2" scrap blocking it open). The only places I see dust when I'm done are in the far back corners, and it is just a little bit. I could probably fix that if I put some 45 degree baffles in those corners. My more permanent plan is to replace the 1/2" scrap by either drilling a few vent holes in the bottom of the door, or use a 1/2" cove bit and route a cove in the bottom back edge of the door so air can get in an run across the bottom of the router compartment to the dust port.
Nice job! I know you feel better as routers are insane with dust. Now you’re able to contain it while also having your storage all in one area. Keep up the great work and let’s continue to inspire others. 👍🏼
I also built a router table similar to yours and I found that if you lower the vacuum intake to the lower corner of the router chamber you can improve your results. I think by having the 4inch intake higher in the router chamber your fighting gravity with the larger pieces. Good luck and keep the videos coming!!😎👍🏽
Check out the Milescraft Dust Router. It attaches to underside of router lift and eliminates dust entirely. Best $30 I ever spent for my shop. Keeps all of the dust out of your router motor!
Tamer I see a few mods you need to do inside your router box you need to put a catch board below the router at a 45 degrees.Also move your vacuum port to the bottom to collect the dust. You plexiglass door needs to be min 1/4 thick and you should use only lexan. Lexan will not break if something should hit it, If it is thick enough it can handle a severe impact without breaking. Lexan is the bullet proof material used in banks. Also make sure your router motor has good cross air flow to stay cool. I have a few more modifications To share will put them in later.
Great build! I like the black + natural + clear plexi. Very sleek. Regarding the remote, I had a similar challenge. I use an Oneida Gorilla, and I have 2 remotes for my shop. I hang them by chain from the ceiling in two central spots in the shop, so I am never more than 1 or 2 steps from activating/deactivating dust collection. I have 13 tools permanently ported in this system, so that a real time saver.
Tamar, one of the FEW creators who I will press the Like button BEFORE I even watch the video.... I just know its gonna be good, never been disappointed!
Just watched the video again. The problem you are having with the dust collection. I believe it would be fixed if you moved the dust collection port to the bottom of the box in the back. You'd have to cut the bottom of the port to get it flush with the bottom, but I believe that will fix the issue.
Nice job! For the dust collection at the end. Instead of air flow holes at the top, put only one maybe two holes at the bottom of the center door. This may create enough circulation at the bottom where you need it most.
Love the table! Really awesome job!!! Definitely worth copying!! I love the idea of sinking the bolts into the plywood for the wheels! Great video as always!
@@mattheffron391 Me too, that is what I did on my first few mobile cabinets. But the last couple, I have switched to using 1/4x20 carriage bolts. I still use the forstner bit to sink it in from the top, but I think it is a cleaner solution.
Great job Tamar! You'll get a lot of enjoyment out of using it. The air vent on my dust collection box is at the bottom. That way the air is drawn in from the bottom up towards the top where the hose suction is coming from. I think that will help. Also, if you wipe the inside of the plexiglass with a dryer sheet it will help keep the sawdust from sticking to it.
Great build, Tamar. I attached a rope with a strong magnet to my dust collector remote and hang it from the ceiling of my shop. It makes it easy to find and move around, if you have some metal on the ceiling. Use it in good health!
Great job on the commercial. I usually click through but as a parent and professional Chef I was intrigued. You make a really compelling case for green chef. Well done. More to the the point I enjoyed the router table build. Love your approach, wish I had your patience in my designs. Cheers, Jeff
My router table. Has a V shaped bottom culminating in a slotted 2” PVC tube and the dust collection is connected to the tube. The dust slides down the sloped sides and into the slotted tube. Works great. I also have venting for the router motor so it’s not sucking dust through the motor. It also eliminates the conflict between the dust collector and the motor fan. The router wants to draw in air at the bottom and brow the air, dust and all out the top, basically in your face. This eliminates this problem. You could easily incorporate those designs and all but eliminate your dust problem.
I know I'm a little late to the show but I just recently discovered your channel and have enjoying some of your previous videos. Congratulations on the new router table! It looks awesome and is one of the best I've seen. Thanks again for an awesome video, thanks for sharing and best of fortune in all you do. 😊
Hi Tamar. i had another question. i noticed incra has whats called clean sweep which is holes in the router plate insert. what are your thoughts on doing that or making your own to improve dust collection when making grooves or datos since it tends to shoot the dust out to the left of the table? i saw a video of someone making a round hole in their plate and it looked great. just wanted your thoughts on it. ... Maybe you should try making a copy of the holes incra does into your plate to test??? could be awesome
What countersink drill bits do you use? They seem to be doing a good job.The ones for pilot hole and countersink in one action. For dust collection for the router chamber, maybe it's worth it to make the bottom not flat, and move the dust port to closer to bottom.
First off love your channel! You may have fixed this - but you may want to affix your dust collection port to the bottom of the box. By putting it on the side I believe you’re effectively making a cyclone - extracting all fine dust and letting bigger chips settle on bottom. Just a thought !
Excellent build. As some other have mentioned: dust port towards the bottom, a base that slopes to the back and vents near the bottom should help. And if there’s room, you could add a couple vertical plates at 45’s across the back corners to remove those low air flow areas.
Thanks! My router lift is pretty big and bulky and there wasn’t room to do this. I’m thinking maybe making some sort of curved chute that runs from the bottom of the router lift to the inlet
Suggest moving the suction outlet to the bottom of the router bay so that you can suck out the heavy (gravity) particles which will form at the bottom. Nice router table - keep up the good work
I have a Kreg router table similar to yours and have been thinking how to build and mount a similar system within that metal frame. Your idea of building a whole new carcass increases storage and is probably simpler and easier to construct than fitting a box inside the existing frame. It’s the top and the router insert that makes the router table so effective and just moving it to the new box/frame makes more sense. Please see my thoughts on improving air flow in your already great design.
I love the video, With the dust in the bottom of the cabinet, with our dust box at work that I made for our table router in a high school, I have the 4” port at the bottom and also made the floor slope to the port from the front and the sides, I made our floor out of galvanised sheet metal. I know our dust unit is a huge one at work, but kids never close a dust gate, so all of them are open, which makes it very inefficient for the size of the machine. But our dust box is empty all the time. Maybe try moving the port to the bottom and place a sloping piece of ply in there and see if it makes a difference.
This looks awesome! If you seal the perimeter of the face via strips/rabbet and weatherstripping/gaskets you’ll be able to control the airflow better from your top door vent to bottom evacuation port.
One thing I found when building the basic box for various tools is to use as little hardware as I can, in your case avoiding pocket holes and screws, at least for the outside of the box. Why? Extendibility. In my case a few times I wanted to create an extension to the tool base allowing attachment of some infeed/outfeed extension wings. It was 6mo after I built the table(s) and sure enough (bang) I ran into the screws. I realize pocket holes can be great for building basic boxes, so have nothing against them, as they are great for the intended purpose. However, I just learned the hard way that when it comes to shop bases/carts/enclosures are often great places for extensions (extra shelf or two, holder(s) for bit/tools, infeed/outfeed extension, whatever) long after the fact of building the box. Allowing for inspiration or necessity of extension without any associated gotyas just makes things easier at the expense of using using something like dowels or dominos, and perhaps waiting another day for glue to cure. Just a thought.
I'm commenting before watching - but based on thumbnail I hope to hear "draw" at least 55 times. Don't let me down Tamar!
I think you got your wish lol
I was about to ask about that.. does she have a speech impediment or is there some inside joke I'm not aware of?
@@sumduma55 / No ! it's a normal Long Island New York accent
@@sumduma55 It is just the way she says drawer. She says draws. It is just her way of saying it. Good stuff as we all say things differently. No speech impediment just Tamar.
We are going to give this lady a complex...
I love this project! one suggestion on the dust collection: flip your door so that the slots are on the bottom, and the collector will pull air across that bottom shelf and help keep dust there to a minimum. It's already catching the fine stuff that doesn't make it, just needs a little help sweeping up the slightly bigger pieces. When they get to the bottom of that cabinet there's no air movement there to sweep them away.
I’m going to try that!
@@3x3CustomTamar I think the real issue is the location of your lower dust port. Since its at the top the heavier larger chips fall to the bottom, you basically built a dust separator. On most commercial router boxes the outlet is at the bottom of the box. What you did totally works and as long as you keep after it occasionally still a good solution but large chips will collect in the bottom if you dont move the port down lower.
Yeah that's a very good point, I think a curved ramp at the bottom would probably help as well.
@@justin.booth. yes another option, something to guide the chips towards the outlet
I think that's smart. I was thinking to have a slope added on the floor of that box.
I appreciate that you work with (and openly share) “workarounds” based on what you have in your shop (i.e., no dado). Many of us, myself included, have similar constraints.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Thanks for s lot for this comment. I'm planning on building a router table soon and will reinforce it with some 2x4 or something.
Nice design, suggest moving the dust port to the bottom and slope the bottom down front to back. Gravity is your friend when you don't fight it. Also finish the dust compartment nice and smooth so dust and chips move freely. By having the dust port high its effectively like a dust deputy separating the dust from the chips.
Good idea for sure
Looks good !
Moving the dust box vent to bottom of box would increase removal of large chunks (with hole at top it is acting like a separator leaving the large stuff 'separated' .)
There are better vented insert plates (router cutter bit insert plate) , some by Incra or just modified with extra holes ) to increase air flow .
bingo - that and include angled pieces in the bottom corners to help direct dust and air flow to the dust port
I may try that
Exactly what I did too plus the angle plate after experimenting with the proper angle with some cardboard. Also put a furring strip around the door with foam gasket and magnets to keep the door closed...also used a piano hinge to help alignment over time. You can also add some small baffles to direct the airflow to the port keeping in mind most routers exhaust from the bit side. Note I'm only using a shop vac and HD separator bucket with 2.5" hose...works great.
Great job Tamar, you can always tweak it after using it awhile!!
I built much the same cabinet a few years back and put the dust port at the bottom with the bottom angled down slightly from the front and a couple of angled side pieces as Dogwood Tales mentioned.
@@3x3CustomTamar Something like this \_- on the bottom of the dust collection.
Great project as usual. I use draw as well, picked it up from years of watching This Old House and New Yankee Workshop with my grandfather. Norm would be proud that you are carrying it to a new generation
Haha! So funny that ppl are so shocked to hear this accent!
Right! It’s not that rare of an accent. Someone even thought it was a speech impediment! 🤣
I’m glad you have a good sense of humor about all these unworldly people :) who’ve never heard something from Long Island or New England speak before. I think some Brits say “draw” too.
@@3x3CustomTamar I first noticed in in another video and thought more so that is was just another thing I didn't know about as I'm new to woodworking. After a couple failed google searches for "woodworking DRAWS" and hearing you use it in a couple more videos, I was able to use context clues to figure out what you meant. I felt so dumb/silly afterwards. lol
Not going to lie, I didn’t immediately comment on the pronunciation of “drawers” because I wanted to be sensitive in the event that it WAS an impediment! 😄 However, after I listened to you capably pronounce other words with “r” endings (four, more, quarter), I determined it was an east coast accent. I’m sure I’ve heard it in other videos of yours, but I think “draw” was every 5th word in this vid. 😉
I don’t understand how one can properly 😉 pronounce “four” and “quarter” but not “drawer,” but I’m sure people have similar questions about much of my Euro-accented English vocab!
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
The way you explained how to get the correct width for the drawer fronts and backs is one of the best I have heard. Everybody usually rushes thought that spot, or skips over it.
Thank you
Glad you liked it!
"I literally just had it..." That's basically 90% of my time in my shop.
Anyhow, absolutely love ALL of the content you put out. I have learned so much from you!
😂😂😂 same same… thanks!
Yup. Try doing that on stream too, can't pause the camera or edit out the "oh FFS where did I put it NOW"
;)
Thank you for sharing. Your channel is an inspiration to our channel and several others. Keep it up!!
Glad you like it!
You are amazing! You explain everything in great depth and are also not afraid to show your mistakes, which takes even more courage to show how you can improve.
Every time she says draw, I fall in love ❤
😂😂
I think every time she breathes, someone falls in love.💕
Well done that's one good looking router table you've built. You could also shorten the door and put a dust drawer below the router that could be emptied when done routering.
Good one!!!!
That’s a good idea!
Long time since I watched you on YT. Seeing that Triton plunge saw and your table saw are an excellent brake on my mouse as I was getting sucked towards Makita, then Mafell and Festool packages including saw, track, boxes, and dust extractor vacuum with the new Festool small table saw. Thanks from the bottom of my bank account.
On getting children to eat veg. I cracked that with my son about 25 years ago by sweating/toasting chopped brassicas, peas, green beans, etc, in olive oil with a bit of salt and chilli flakes. Suddenly, he started hoovering them up. Turning 20, he introduced his no-greens drama college friends to the idea, along with freshly caught gurnard from the sea. They also hoovered it up. Steaming with butter and chilli flakes works, too. Now he's doing it with his four children.
Oh - while at drama school, he did door to door sales of Hello Fresh in London, UK
I have never heard you say “drawer” until your FAQ video. Then, I watch this one next! Ha! As a Southerner, I empathize with you…people are always making fun of us. 🙂
Great video! Love your process and how you walk through it all.
Matthew Allen, I was born and raised in the South, however, my mom was born and raise in Massachusetts. I get the best of both worlds. LoL
😂😂😂
Love your videos and have built a couple of your projects for my use. When it comes to Router Tables, everybody attaches a dust collection hose to the fence. I wanted my table to roll under my chop saw workbench and didn't want a complicated hose configuration so I went a different direction. My 4 inch dust collector comes up through the bottom of the box the router is in so the chips and dust fall down towards the hose. Since this box like area is directly under the table top, I drilled a 2 inch hole through the top about 1 inch back from the router mounting plate. On the back of my fence I built a box that creates an enclosure/tunnel that extends back over the hole in the table. The way it works is that as the router chips off wood, they fly back through the fence, into the tunnel and fall/get sucked down the hole. It appears to be as successful as the hose/fence method as I hardly have any dust/chips left on the table top. Just an idea that works well and eliminates the need for a hose.
Noticed the diming of the lights when you turned on the dust collection. That means that that there are too much on that line so the wires have difficulty pushing enough Amps. That means that they run a risk of getting too hot during prolonged use at that level. At the moment it's only a problem when the dust collector needs its starting power though it's better to put the dust collector on another fuse than the lights to avoid that issue.
Yup. Something I mentioned previously about my shop being underpowered. All something I’m hoping to fix 👍
@@3x3CustomTamar An easy and economical (in the monthly bills) fix is change all your bulbs to led's, if you haven't already. One tenth the draw of incandescent and about one fifth the wattage of fluorescent with the same brightness. But, electrician here, he's right about separating the lights. They should be the only thing on their circuit and that's easy to do. That will free up more power for the motors and keep the wiring cooler.
Awesome build. Thank you for sharing. Regarding the bottom vent port, you need a sufficient capture velocity. Not sure the spec on your blower but not exceeding a capture distance of one times the diameter of your duct is a good start (eg 4" from duct port). For your natural draft orifices on your plexiglass, your on the right track on creating a laminar airflow, but the larger the area of openings, the more air is required to keep up the speed. Regarding your duct, I would try to use gravity to your advantage by moving your vent attachment down or use an interior downward shelf. Also reduce the length of flex line to the minimum possible; use pvc or galvanized (something smooth). If your do elect to use the flex line, keep it as taunt as possible to reduce the internal ridges. Avoid any tight or unnecessary turns or bends in airflow.
Okay I'm starting a new drinking game. Every time Tamar says "Draw" we take a shot of liquor.
But on a serious note, flip your door so the vent holes are on the bottom. Looks great 👍.
I’m going to try that!
dang.... have to call wambulnce... alcholo poison. fun game though
I had the exact same thought. Drinking game, not vent holes. 😎
@@marksimoneau7655 But Mark, the way that Tamar says 'Drawer' is so cute that it's worth it.
I never noticed her accent until her Q and A video where she talked about pronouncing “drawers”. Now that’s all I can think about! Oh, and I can’t wait to build this for my new router lift. Thank you!
As probably so many of your viewers, I certainly hope you and your family, home and workshop got through that horrible hurricane without to much pain or damage....rr Normandy, Fra.
All good! We were very lucky. The neighborhood was a mess yesterday
Congratulations for depicting two smart elements to do the work: get your hardware first and design around it. Also, use the components to generate cut lines without ever measuring.
Glad you liked it 👍
The remote control for the dust collector is the best thing ever! I have a "Y" attachment to my Harbor freight desk collector. One goes to the table saw, and the other goes to a hose that I can connect to any other thing in the shop. I ended up getting a truck filter because it was less expensive than the canister filters designed for it. It makes a big difference in the dust around the shop. Like $75 versus $250. I just hold it on with a tie down. Food for thought. Great video as usual.
Love this project, a extra out at the back bottom keeps it clean!
Thanks!
@@3x3CustomTamar I was wondering if the compartment might be to large and that's why there's not enough suction. Or is this just something that in inherent with a router table? Also, I thought it was kind of funny that you used magnets to hold the drawer face but no magnets to keep the door closed. Hmmm? 🤨
Great build, I'm in need of a router table and so far I like this one the best. Of course I will change a few things (I have larger hands) like possibly making the bit trays removable. Might be able to fit 3 per drawer that way. Again, great video and build. Keep up the good work.
I really value your channel on TH-cam! It's one of the few that I feel like I can come to for real pointers and advice. Thanks, for putting yourself out there for all of us plebs, Tamar!
That’s so awesome to hear!
What you could do, is put the outlet hole of the dustcollector at the BOTTOM of the cabinet so that even if you get some dust you can just push it in to the outlet hole and it'll get sucked up.
Agreed, the particals my be too heavy to go out the top wall dust collection port. Flip the hole to the bottom and create a slight funnel to reduce the amount of open space. If your motor isn't strong enough you may also have to empty your collection bag/barrel more often.
Since you mentioned your collector might be too weak I had experimented with the height of the port in the box: cut a elongated hole from top to bottom where you can mount another piece with the port covering the whole hole. Then move this piece up or down until you find the height where you collect the most.
Check out the Milescraft Dust Router. It attaches to underside of router lift and eliminates dust entirely. Best $30 I ever spent for my shop.
Going to try fir sure
I wonder if there would be less dust in the router compartment if the dust extraction hole was at the bottom of it. 🤷♂️ Great project and result!
I will try!
My thoughts exactly.
Nice design! I made my router table out of MDF. For the dust collection, I went through a couple of revs but settled on a cool design. I made the cabinet space below the router with a sloped bottom made out of 1/4" melamine. Then I put the dust port at the bottom end of the slope. Now the dust just slides down to the port. I also made the door seal tight so the vacuum pulls more air around the bit and router. Really enjoy you channel - lots of good jigs and techniques.
Sounds cool
Love your videos, but this looks just like Jsk-koubous router table 🧐 only noticed because I planned on building it myself 😂. The man deserves his credit
Was thinking the same thing😂
I ALWAYS learn something new from your videos. I especially like your "hack" solutions to problems you encounter along the way - very inspiring! Sincere thanks!
Awesome to hear! Thanks!
Watched to the end… “I literally just had that..” is the age old comment of every woodworker ever. Great video
And when we drop something, it's "where, the ...., did that just go?"
I did this last night with a tiny 2x8mm pin cut from an old drill bit..
Tried to hold with needle-nose pliers when cutting with the grinder, pliers clipped together, pin vanished instantly, didn't even hear it hit the floor as I was wearing earmuffs.. I'll literally NEVER find it.. lol
Where do these things go?!
@@3x3CustomTamar there's a void they fall into.. possibly a different dimension..
All becomes clear after we die, and we get to spend eternity wandering around looking at all the things we lost over our lives.. 😉
@@GenoLoma I suspect they end up in the same place that random socks, and 10mm sockets wind up in.
@@tree_carcass_mangler ah yes.. the infamous 10mm socket.. can't recall how many of those I've had to buy over the years..
I guess I'll get them all back when I die.. ;)
I'll be the Socket King.. ;)
I enjoy how you show the little flaws and your effort in fixes. Trial and error is how we learn and we need our mentors to show us that these things happen. 👍👍👍
Glad you like it!
"Alright, let's build some drawers"! Golden...solid work. ☮
😂😂 thanks!
Love your videos. Very clear and concise. And THANK YOU for the non click bait titles; you do what you say
Glad you appreciate that!
Great project 👍
I'd recommend upgrading your filter bag for a canister filter. Not only is it better for your lungs, but better performance out of the system. Another power increase you could gain is if you run pvc pipe as far as you can, and only use flex hose as short as necessary. Check out Stumpy on TH-cam, he has a great deal of detail about this. But maybe after a move? 😉
Love the remote on the cable! Got a link by any chance?
Thanks! All going to be upgraded soon… 🤞🤞🤞
Those remote boxes burn out quick. I went through two 3 packs already then realized never turn it on and off right away. Wait a about 10sec b4 turning it on again
22:41 easy peasy 😉gust move the vacuum hose to near bottom side it's well clear all drawer but you must close all that hole in perspex glass...nice job Mam
👍
another impressive project done by your husband !! especially the draws ! :P
😂😂😂
Awesome build Tamar! I'm sure lots of other folks mentioned this, but I had the same issue on my table and found that moving the dust port closer to the bottom of helps as well as putting in mitered pieces to help direct the dust towards to port :)
Check out the Milescraft Dust Router. It attaches to underside of router lift and eliminates dust entirely. Best $30 I ever spent for my shop.
Going to try!
Did your family members take exception to your “no visibility” policy - at least partly? And as others have noted, Guinness may be contacting you for the most uses of “drawer” per minute as revenge in a video. Congratulations on your FWW article.
I didn’t show their whole faces. No one would be able to recognize them ☺️ and thanks!!
Thank you I bought the router table cabinet plan, and the portable work bench got my attention so grabbed that one too. I have watched several of your postings. I just manufactured 8 kitchen cabinet doors and my floppy router table annoyed me I was just going to build one but thanks to you I don't have to draw the plans. Love your guitars I saw in one of your videos, haha I have 5 guitars not allowed to buy more. I built one of those guitar racks but realizing in MA. unless I was running a humidifier/ dehumidifier my guitars needed attention so they are back in their cases with built in humidity meters.. Enough said HaHA Thanks again😎
Absolutely love your method of sizing up the drawers and draw slides, Thank you
Awesome to hear
My guess on the dust collection issue in the main box. It's basically acting like a cyclonic separator. Dust shoots down and then has to change direction and go back upwards to the exit hose. I have a gut feel it would collect more if the hose were at the bottom of the box so it doesn't have to fight gravity so much.
Thanks for the build video. Cheers.
man, this is ridiculous how much effort you put into this video! absolutely amazing job!
Haha thanks!
Good job T!! So the dust collection issue underneath is because of the level of your dust port. If you lowered it to the bottom of the router housing it would collect much more of your dust. On the commercial dust boxes the port is usually close to the bottom which allows it to pull the dust down and out, your design is allowing it to pull the dust down but not out! Great project and it has inspired me to want to build one for myself.
Going to try that!
@@3x3CustomTamar lemme know if it works out.
As someone that recently built cabinets for my garage (first time ever) I appreciate that you step through the measurements of the draw(er) spacers…
Glad you like it!
Nice router cabinet Tamar.👌
Dust collection solution, Milescraft 1501 Dust Router Collection, actually there are several types and brands with some being kits and others as individual pieces, most are less than $100. Basically what you need is a collection cup that fits the underside of the table to coral the dust and chips that are drawn down because of the router motor and bit. Most better quality collection systems have a dual collector setup for top and bottom. 😎
You could make a small triangle pocket on the underside of the table, between the motor head collar and use a plumbing "T" to adapt both collection ports into one common point. Another important factor is to reduce the hose size from that large volume low flow to a typical shop vac size to increase your suction power and speed of airflow for better results.😉
One potential problem with the pocket hole method is the floor plate or bottom of the cabinet, all sides, fronts and backs should always be attached to the top surface because it is the foundation of the cabinet. Depending on how heavy your work will be it may never be an issue, but plywood end grain is not very strong against downward force. If a problem does develop you could easily add a second bottom across the whole cabinet or simply add two solid board runners under the caster wheels and sides of the cabinet to support the whole unit. I have used pocket holes for drop floor cabinets to hide the casters without a skirt seam on the outer finish surface, but the floor is always reinforced with support blocks and is inset into a dado groove along with those pocket screws.😜
Well done!👍
What finish are you going to use on the draw fronts?😁
I’ll have to check it out
Cut, drill, assemble. Very mechanised. Good tools. Well supplied.
Your router table i took a fish tank base somone had put in the trash it was metal changed it around some built a box to catch dust out of 1/4" put a plug in the bottom, added a hose connector for dust collection to the bottom, you really don't need anything on the fence the vacume pulls it all out from the bottom.
Now I have to make draws for it to hold my router tools and bits. The top is 40" wide by 28" deep 1" thick with a jessem router lift and I added t track for the fence over fence t track for my jessem stock guides and woodpeckers combo t track miter track for a cross cut sled or coping ends. I just need to come up with a jig to stand parts on end to do lock miter joints. If I get it right I can take a
4/4 board and make a endless grain joint on 3 sides of a wall shelf i can add French cleats to so the shelf floats on the wall with nothing holding it on you can see. 5 sides should match as grain is considered. That means I need to make the frt also.
That was a brilliant tuition, lots of great tips, it looks fabulous too. The highest production values, I particularly enjoyed where you dramatically slowed down the speed whilst reaching for the screws.
Hahah! I thought that was funny when I was editing. I don’t remember doing it
Seen a video that the guy had the same issue as you do with the dust in the bottom ,he put holes in the back of the cabinet 5 holes about 1 1/2 holes instead of the door you had put slots in your door . His method he made no holes in the door. WHEN he added the holes in the back he had no more dust in his cabinet .also you could add a partial panel in front of the router held by magnets so you have less area to have to remove the dust . It also give you more storage space .love your videos
Suggestion: suction intake at bottom rear of router box and door intake at bottom to create airflow across the bottom of the containment box where the heavies land. I love your vids, your one brilliant gal, thanks for the content, admire your drive and work ethic and quality.
Check out the Milescraft Dust Router. It attaches to underside of router lift and eliminates dust entirely. Best $30 I ever spent for my shop.
Going to try that 👍
"I literally JUST had it" is a constant mantra in my shop. I have eliminated it related to tape measures by buying a handful of moderately inexpensive versions that are resident in different areas of the shop. this also eliminates the lost tape when someone else in the household borrows it (and of course leaves it).
oh yeah - this is a fantastic project. my mind is churning some designs for mine now.
I have 5 of those tapes!! 😂😂😂
👍I LOVE it. This summer, my health declined, but with cooler weather & a new Kreg Foreman on the way I plan to get building this Fall. My tools are kept inside and carried outside when I build. Not enough good health days have been lining up with good weather days. So, we plan to make room inside for smaller projects before winter. I will need dust solutions.
I think your cabinet performed great. Still, I'm not surprised you are striving for perfection; you always share your oops & needed improvements with your audience. I see suggestions in the comments, so, I guess those folks agree that dust collection could be better... Well, I must be easier to please, I was very impressed! The top was spotless and only a teeny bit of saw dust down below.
I have a Woodcraft 50 or so miles away and your cut-list looks like much can be broken down in store from economic plywood. Those repeat grain patterned boards can be bothersome, but it looks awesome the way you matched it up on the drawers! I WILL watch your follow up video. But then I am headed to your website to buy these cabinet plans. ~♿Lisa🔨
PS- a question: have you ever cut the grooves for your drawer bottoms into longer boards, before cross cutting it into sides, front & back? I'll be using a hand held router w/straight edge & hoping to save some effort? I've never seen this done on YT; so I'm worried there's a reason for that, a problem I haven't thought of? Thanks.
Thanks so much! Hmmmm. I havnt done that. But I guess I don’t see why you can’t.
I built a router station that was very similar to this ( the New Yankee Workshop version) and I had the same problem with dust collection. Works good at the fence but not good underneath the router. Great job. Love your videos.
Definitely something to play around with. Thanks!
You never ceast to amaze me !!! I love that smile at the end !!!! We could tell, this job was something you really wanted!!! Good job woman !!!!
Glad you liked it! ☺️
I suggest changing the position of your back dust port to the bottom of the router enclosure. It looks like the router is blocking the port. If the port was on the bottom of the enclosure, It would suck all or the majority of the dust that ends on the bottom. Also, the plexi door. These slots for the air are great, however, move them to the bottom. That way the air that is sucked in will take the dust towards the dust port at the back. You can also use magnets for the door to stay closed.
Looks great. Would the dust clear better if the hose/hole was at the bottom of the router compartment.
I think you read my mind Tamar. This video came out just in time for me to stop planning my own version of a router table and just use yours. Thanks, you rock!
Awesome!!
Beautiful! Router, router router....Top 3 tools!
Yup!
Just a little tidbit put your remote in a plastic bag to prevent saw dust from getting inside around the button either by hand or in the air
I'm absolutely loving your videos. I'm just looking into starting this hobby; I don't even have a circular saw and I'm learning so much. This is really cool
Awesome to hear
This is brilliant, so much more space you have there! My ‘workshop’ is crammed into a 6x12 shed, and half of that is storage!!
Thank you yet again for sharing
Glad you like it!
Another great and very useful project. Thanks for all the comments and info you share !
Glad you liked it!
On the acrylic door add a little metal rectangle to top and bottom, then a magnetic stop at each point. Solves the issues and looks better than the wood scrap stops.
Came to comment how well that came out, and kudos etc. Then read the comments. Shouldn't be doing that, it's my own fault. But just to say coming from the UK there is no problem with the way you say "drawer". At least to my ears! Another superb build and given me loads of inspiration so thank you so much!
Dom
Haha! I never realized I said it like that until posting to TH-cam 😂 thanks!
Hey, I think the dust issue might be due to the fact that the vac port is very high up from where the floor is? I am going to fit mine at the bottom and maybe place some plwood forming a V forcing the dust towards the opening.
They way you say draw reminds me of my grandma. Thanks for the nice memory!
Haha
nice work . i suggest you look at the position of the vents again. i believe the holes in the router door would work better at the bottom to prevent dust from settling there.
Really nice build Tamar! I recently built a very similar router table and I have the same dust collector (but with a Super Dust Deputy and Wynn Environmental filter). I agree with many other comments on the cause of your dust collection woes. I don't have this issue and the differences, "I believe" are two things 1) my dust collection port is on the back but at the bottom of the compartment with the router, and 2) I let some air in by cracking the door open just a bit (small 1/2" scrap blocking it open). The only places I see dust when I'm done are in the far back corners, and it is just a little bit. I could probably fix that if I put some 45 degree baffles in those corners. My more permanent plan is to replace the 1/2" scrap by either drilling a few vent holes in the bottom of the door, or use a 1/2" cove bit and route a cove in the bottom back edge of the door so air can get in an run across the bottom of the router compartment to the dust port.
Thanks! I ended up fixing it. Hopefully I’ll get a video out soon 👍
Nice job! I know you feel better as routers are insane with dust. Now you’re able to contain it while also having your storage all in one area. Keep up the great work and let’s continue to inspire others. 👍🏼
So happy with it!
I also built a router table similar to yours and I found that if you lower the vacuum intake to the lower corner of the router chamber you can improve your results. I think by having the 4inch intake higher in the router chamber your fighting gravity with the larger pieces. Good luck and keep the videos coming!!😎👍🏽
Check out the Milescraft Dust Router. It attaches to underside of router lift and eliminates dust entirely. Best $30 I ever spent for my shop. Keeps all of the dust out of your router motor!
I’m going to flip it ans see if that helps
Tamar, that turned out awesome! Love the paint/finish job. Great job!
Thanks so much!
Outstanding guidance there mum, teaching the boy how to hold his fingers when cutting!
Tamer I see a few mods you need to do inside your router box you need to put a catch board below the router at a 45 degrees.Also move your vacuum port to the bottom to collect the dust.
You plexiglass door needs to be min 1/4 thick and you should use only lexan. Lexan will not break if something should hit it, If it is thick enough it can handle a severe impact without breaking.
Lexan is the bullet proof material used in banks.
Also make sure your router motor has good cross air flow to stay cool. I have a few more modifications To share will put them in later.
Definitely going to play around
Great build! I like the black + natural + clear plexi. Very sleek. Regarding the remote, I had a similar challenge. I use an Oneida Gorilla, and I have 2 remotes for my shop. I hang them by chain from the ceiling in two central spots in the shop, so I am never more than 1 or 2 steps from activating/deactivating dust collection. I have 13 tools permanently ported in this system, so that a real time saver.
That’s a great idea!
I love your spoons! I think those would help my 6 year old daughter be interested in trying the Green Chef meal!
I had so much fun making them!
Tamar, one of the FEW creators who I will press the Like button BEFORE I even watch the video.... I just know its gonna be good, never been disappointed!
So awesome to hear ☺️
Just watched the video again. The problem you are having with the dust collection. I believe it would be fixed if you moved the dust collection port to the bottom of the box in the back. You'd have to cut the bottom of the port to get it flush with the bottom, but I believe that will fix the issue.
Nice job! For the dust collection at the end. Instead of air flow holes at the top, put only one maybe two holes at the bottom of the center door. This may create enough circulation at the bottom where you need it most.
Love the table! Really awesome job!!! Definitely worth copying!! I love the idea of sinking the bolts into the plywood for the wheels! Great video as always!
Glad you like it! Thanks!
When you were drilling with the forstner bit, I thought that you were going to be using Tee-nuts with the casters.
@@mattheffron391 Me too, that is what I did on my first few mobile cabinets. But the last couple, I have switched to using 1/4x20 carriage bolts. I still use the forstner bit to sink it in from the top, but I think it is a cleaner solution.
תודה על השיתוף כמו תמיד אהבתי מאוד! עבודה יפה ופרקטית.
שבת שלום
תודה!!
Great job Tamar! You'll get a lot of enjoyment out of using it. The air vent on my dust collection box is at the bottom. That way the air is drawn in from the bottom up towards the top where the hose suction is coming from. I think that will help. Also, if you wipe the inside of the plexiglass with a dryer sheet it will help keep the sawdust from sticking to it.
I’ll def play around and try that!
Great build, Tamar. I attached a rope with a strong magnet to my dust collector remote and hang it from the ceiling of my shop. It makes it easy to find and move around, if you have some metal on the ceiling. Use it in good health!
Great idea!
Great job on the commercial. I usually click through but as a parent and professional Chef I was intrigued. You make a really compelling case for green chef. Well done. More to the the point I enjoyed the router table build. Love your approach, wish I had your patience in my designs. Cheers, Jeff
Thanks! The recipes are pretty awesome. Even when we don’t have them delivered, I’ve incorporated some of their recipes into our weekly routine
My router table. Has a V shaped bottom culminating in a slotted 2” PVC tube and the dust collection is connected to the tube. The dust slides down the sloped sides and into the slotted tube. Works great. I also have venting for the router motor so it’s not sucking dust through the motor. It also eliminates the conflict between the dust collector and the motor fan. The router wants to draw in air at the bottom and brow the air, dust and all out the top, basically in your face. This eliminates this problem. You could easily incorporate those designs and all but eliminate your dust problem.
Definitely going to play around
I know I'm a little late to the show but I just recently discovered your channel and have enjoying some of your previous videos.
Congratulations on the new router table! It looks awesome and is one of the best I've seen.
Thanks again for an awesome video, thanks for sharing and best of fortune in all you do. 😊
Hi Tamar. i had another question. i noticed incra has whats called clean sweep which is holes in the router plate insert. what are your thoughts on doing that or making your own to improve dust collection when making grooves or datos since it tends to shoot the dust out to the left of the table? i saw a video of someone making a round hole in their plate and it looked great. just wanted your thoughts on it. ... Maybe you should try making a copy of the holes incra does into your plate to test??? could be awesome
Really practical. Like to watch and listen as are a bit of a perfectionist and like to push the boundaries.
Ha glad you liked it!
What countersink drill bits do you use? They seem to be doing a good job.The ones for pilot hole and countersink in one action.
For dust collection for the router chamber, maybe it's worth it to make the bottom not flat, and move the dust port to closer to bottom.
Amana linked to it in the description 👍
First off love your channel!
You may have fixed this - but you may want to affix your dust collection port to the bottom of the box. By putting it on the side I believe you’re effectively making a cyclone - extracting all fine dust and letting bigger chips settle on bottom. Just a thought !
Excellent build. As some other have mentioned: dust port towards the bottom, a base that slopes to the back and vents near the bottom should help. And if there’s room, you could add a couple vertical plates at 45’s across the back corners to remove those low air flow areas.
Thanks! My router lift is pretty big and bulky and there wasn’t room to do this. I’m thinking maybe making some sort of curved chute that runs from the bottom of the router lift to the inlet
Suggest moving the suction outlet to the bottom of the router bay so that you can suck out the heavy (gravity) particles which will form at the bottom.
Nice router table - keep up the good work
Отличное исполнение! Всё чётко и аккуратно 👍!
I have a Kreg router table similar to yours and have been thinking how to build and mount a similar system within that metal frame. Your idea of building a whole new carcass increases storage and is probably simpler and easier to construct than fitting a box inside the existing frame. It’s the top and the router insert that makes the router table so effective and just moving it to the new box/frame makes more sense. Please see my thoughts on improving air flow in your already great design.
Yeah, I liked just starting from scratch. But I have seen ppl do similar things using their frame
Drrrauw Fronts! Classic! , love the shop furnishings!
😂😂
Tamar that smile says it all this build is amazing and you did an excellent job on it
Thanks!!
You could move the 4” intake to the bottom rather than the middle of the back. All the dust could be capture after it falls the the bottom.
I love the video,
With the dust in the bottom of the cabinet, with our dust box at work that I made for our table router in a high school, I have the 4” port at the bottom and also made the floor slope to the port from the front and the sides, I made our floor out of galvanised sheet metal. I know our dust unit is a huge one at work, but kids never close a dust gate, so all of them are open, which makes it very inefficient for the size of the machine. But our dust box is empty all the time. Maybe try moving the port to the bottom and place a sloping piece of ply in there and see if it makes a difference.
Definitely going to play around
This looks awesome! If you seal the perimeter of the face via strips/rabbet and weatherstripping/gaskets you’ll be able to control the airflow better from your top door vent to bottom evacuation port.
Maybe
One thing I found when building the basic box for various tools is to use as little hardware as I can, in your case avoiding pocket holes and screws, at least for the outside of the box. Why? Extendibility.
In my case a few times I wanted to create an extension to the tool base allowing attachment of some infeed/outfeed extension wings. It was 6mo after I built the table(s) and sure enough (bang) I ran into the screws. I realize pocket holes can be great for building basic boxes, so have nothing against them, as they are great for the intended purpose. However, I just learned the hard way that when it comes to shop bases/carts/enclosures are often great places for extensions (extra shelf or two, holder(s) for bit/tools, infeed/outfeed extension, whatever) long after the fact of building the box. Allowing for inspiration or necessity of extension without any associated gotyas just makes things easier at the expense of using using something like dowels or dominos, and perhaps waiting another day for glue to cure.
Just a thought.