For all those commenting to move the panels, its likely the case that anywhere else is more shaded. You can only do what you can with the property orientation and plant coverage you have!! Why dont people consider this before doling out their school marm advice and highly unwarranted criticism?!
panels need relocation. missing out on sun. i had to move mine. also this year hail.. we NEVER had hail till this year 3 times. so i am looking into some protection from that. just a head up 🌨
Cool! 🥁 😅 Ive never heard of an opportunity load controller. Just the voltage is nice with dials but also having a light sensor is a good extra feature. I run a 5v power relay off of the usb port which is controlled by cheap charge controller to switch load on and off at set voltages which turn one of my ac's on. The other one is on the battery load so it's a 48v relay which is just wired into my 2nd inverter switch and the only thing plugged into it is an ac unit. (Fyi for anyone trying to figure out different ways to switch one on and off automatically)
I have a similar setup for my AC. Only wish I had gone 48v so will switch it when inverter needs replacing. My next step I'll get a window unit with a high seer rating. They cost a little more. But you can get around 10k BTU @ 350 watts if you get a really good one (Midea on Amazon makes some good ones). A cheap way to seal those gaps around your window AC is take walmart bag. Wad them up, and stuff them in the gaps with a screwdriver or butter knife. Works real well sealing the window, and everyone has leftover bags. :)
Better to tape the gaps, and cut XPS foam to fit into there. Regular grocery bags made out of LDPE are not insulating much at all, as the material itself is fairly thermally conductive. If you put loose fiber fill or the like in them, that would help a lot.
Ceer instead of Seer on that lable LOL... yeah gotta love those off brand chinese crap... as for you choice of panel placement and setup LOL. .no comment
Once those lead acid batteries wear out, be sure and replace them with LiFePO4 batteries because they are (dollar per watt-hour) a much better value; last longer, weigh less and trouble free.
@@dasauto44 I bought them on Amazon back when the prices were over 50 cents per watt. Now they cost much less. I heard signature solar and santan solar have good deals
That load controller is a very interesting bit of kit. You say you and your brother build them? I noticed you're using lead-acid batteries. It always surprises me when folks aren't using LFP for solar storage, these days. Looking at the ON/OFF voltage range options, it looks like the OLC you're building would work just as well with LFP batteries, although the flat discharge curve of LFP might create challenges, since it would keep powering a load to a much lower SOC than lead-acid. Are you able to be more finite in your voltage ON/OFF levels?
@@jasonbroom7147 good observation. We did the testing with lead acid only. We plan on making more and better products in the future. We would like to build them for LFP and for all battery voltages as well
@@MakerBrothers - If you would like someone experienced at building and testing (from components) LFP batteries, of all types and sizes, I would be glad to provide meaningful feedback. I'm using cylindrical, pouch and prismatic cells, of various sizes, for a wide range of "alternative" power solutions. If your product could be refined to work at tenths of a volt, for 12.8, 25.6 and 51.2 volt batteries, respectively, effective marketing would be the only thing keeping you from selling as many as you can build. "Load shedding" or "dumping" is a huge ask in the off-grid solar community, as I'm sure you know.
@@jasonbroom7147 I wasn't sure what you meant by "able to be more finite in voltage on off levels" yes the dials are continuous, you can select tenths of a volt. Also, I'm refining the circuit because the on off voltage can be off from what the dial reads by a couple tenths of a volt
For all those commenting to move the panels, its likely the case that anywhere else is more shaded. You can only do what you can with the property orientation and plant coverage you have!! Why dont people consider this before doling out their school marm advice and highly unwarranted criticism?!
panels need relocation. missing out on sun. i had to move mine. also this year hail.. we NEVER had hail till this year 3 times. so i am looking into some protection from that. just a head up 🌨
Cool! 🥁 😅
Ive never heard of an opportunity load controller. Just the voltage is nice with dials but also having a light sensor is a good extra feature.
I run a 5v power relay off of the usb port which is controlled by cheap charge controller to switch load on and off at set voltages which turn one of my ac's on.
The other one is on the battery load so it's a 48v relay which is just wired into my 2nd inverter switch and the only thing plugged into it is an ac unit.
(Fyi for anyone trying to figure out different ways to switch one on and off automatically)
Yeah me also, suddenly I have so many idea's for my solar !!
Need to look into the opportunity load control, thanks ( have a dehumidifier I sometime ran on solar when the batteries were new ) Thanks
Nice simple setup. Shading from tree should be addressed. Other than that should 2000w output be enough then good to go.
Yes, shading definitely cutting into a lot of power production
NICE-I have 2000 watts on my 35 foot rv that runs 1ac and everything else.
Would have been nice if you said what voltage your panels are and what amp hour or your batteries
You got to but the solar panel in a better place they are killing your production ❤
opportunity load controller very interesting ! ! ! Thanks!
Nice setup
I have a similar setup for my AC. Only wish I had gone 48v so will switch it when inverter needs replacing. My next step I'll get a window unit with a high seer rating. They cost a little more. But you can get around 10k BTU @ 350 watts if you get a really good one (Midea on Amazon makes some good ones). A cheap way to seal those gaps around your window AC is take walmart bag. Wad them up, and stuff them in the gaps with a screwdriver or butter knife. Works real well sealing the window, and everyone has leftover bags. :)
Better to tape the gaps, and cut XPS foam to fit into there. Regular grocery bags made out of LDPE are not insulating much at all, as the material itself is fairly thermally conductive. If you put loose fiber fill or the like in them, that would help a lot.
Would not want your set up here in East Texas. LMAO....
Interesting, but the AC is off battery, not solar. Solar is charging the battery bank. Still learned something though, thanks.
Ceer instead of Seer on that lable LOL... yeah gotta love those off brand chinese crap... as for you choice of panel placement and setup LOL. .no comment
Thank U , this is a good educational post, I subscribed Cheers !
Very cool
Very interesting, have a couple systems running my sheds, don't have enough solar to run an AC that long. New sub to help your channel.
kool beans!
Thanks for the video. Is the “opportunity load controller” something you built, or bought? Thanks
My brother and I build them and they are for sale on Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBPW8P7B?ref=myi_title_dp
Once those lead acid batteries wear out, be sure and replace them with LiFePO4 batteries because they are (dollar per watt-hour) a much better value; last longer, weigh less and trouble free.
So how much for the solar panels? And where can we purchase it?
@@dasauto44 I bought them on Amazon back when the prices were over 50 cents per watt. Now they cost much less. I heard signature solar and santan solar have good deals
whats the total cost for setup like that
@@supjay3945 around 1500 us dollars for new panels and equipment
That load controller is a very interesting bit of kit. You say you and your brother build them? I noticed you're using lead-acid batteries. It always surprises me when folks aren't using LFP for solar storage, these days. Looking at the ON/OFF voltage range options, it looks like the OLC you're building would work just as well with LFP batteries, although the flat discharge curve of LFP might create challenges, since it would keep powering a load to a much lower SOC than lead-acid. Are you able to be more finite in your voltage ON/OFF levels?
@@jasonbroom7147 good observation. We did the testing with lead acid only. We plan on making more and better products in the future. We would like to build them for LFP and for all battery voltages as well
@@MakerBrothers - If you would like someone experienced at building and testing (from components) LFP batteries, of all types and sizes, I would be glad to provide meaningful feedback. I'm using cylindrical, pouch and prismatic cells, of various sizes, for a wide range of "alternative" power solutions. If your product could be refined to work at tenths of a volt, for 12.8, 25.6 and 51.2 volt batteries, respectively, effective marketing would be the only thing keeping you from selling as many as you can build. "Load shedding" or "dumping" is a huge ask in the off-grid solar community, as I'm sure you know.
@@jasonbroom7147 I wasn't sure what you meant by "able to be more finite in voltage on off levels" yes the dials are continuous, you can select tenths of a volt. Also, I'm refining the circuit because the on off voltage can be off from what the dial reads by a couple tenths of a volt
@@jasonbroom7147 I'll add an email address to the you tube channel sometime this week so we can get you one of these to test
What does a system like yours costs?
@@StarwaterCWS somewhere around 1500 us dollars using new panels and equipment
@@MakerBrothers thanks!