looking foward too. @Swann Schilling and @Paulo Gould do you guys think gears are better to print using resin since there are resistant resins and they have an advantage of fdm type? I mean a solid part without layers on top of another
I will still have to make tests to see how they perform, they biggest issue I am seeing so far is warping and shrinking when post curing...also when post curing there is a change in the materials surface and it becomes pretty rough. But I am already using resin parts in one of my gearboxes and it seems to be working fine!
Nice video I will be very interested in dimensional accuracy information for this printer, I have a few printers and my resin ones have been the most difficult to tune to accurate tolerances for proper mechanical assembly's, It can be done of course but takes some careful calibration, and slicer set up. They are excellent for aesthetic parts though.
Yes, that is what I also figured...the warping an shrinking at the post curing is something that might complicate things when it comes to mechanical parts! Did you see any difference in the dimensional accuracy when tweaking the post curing process, or did you have to set up new tolerances when changing to a new brand of resin?
@@swannschilling474 Part design and slicer settings helped me a lot more than post curing options for me. Although on especially thin parts I have heard it is helpful to make sure you cure all faces consistently/evenly to offset warping which makes sense. hollowing parts where possible helps relieve some of the stresses that can build up and cause warping during curing, I also tend to go overboard on supports so the shapes don't get distorted while in production, for me it is still quicker to remove too many supports than to reprint a bad part (also resin supports come off Much easier than FDM so using support isn't such a hassle). Another thing that helps is if it is important for a part to be square (like a gear) I print it square/ parallel to the build plate. I lot of guides tell you to angle everything at 45 degrees which they don't explain is very model dependent (broad example: how do you tip a sphere at 45 degrees exactly?)and also not that big of deal if you don't. The thinking behind the 45 degree thing makes sense sort of, reduce the surface area that has to be peeled from the fep but.. during things like the raft printing it can be peeling a full bed at a time with out issue... so how much does it really matter? It mainly helps in situations where you have very light supports and you don't want to loose your model in the lift. so many of the guides for printing well on resin printers are based around printing aesthetic models and so few use them for the mechanical , or assembly applications so you need to take the guides with a grain of salt as they have different goals with their end product... Material used can play a role, but I have not seen that big of a difference (but to be fair I have only tried 6 or so different brands) and even if they say things like "build" "accurate" and "engineering" they all seemed to come out about the same in my tests. The biggest help for getting parts to fit together was tolerance compensation. One of my printers by default added .5mm to every surface!! I spent a while chasing design fixes and other settings before I found tolerance compensation. I then created simple test models with square and round holes and pegs set at different angles and played with tolerance compensation until things fit together correctly and matched the intended measurements. It still isn't perfect from every angle but it is better and The tolerance settings were probably the biggest help, this video explains it: th-cam.com/video/-rEUyR9yoBI/w-d-xo.html I hope these tips help, there are too few guides based around mechanical fitment and use of resin prints, and machine reviews never bring it up as they always focus on resolution and mini figure printing so it is hard to know what machines may be better. Anycubics new DLP sounds promising but it is small and costly and I am sure formlabs and other laser based machines are better but who can afford that?
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm looking forward to your progress. The clear blue looks great.
Transparent resin is really awesome!!
Not to sure about printing functional parts yet....but lets see!
the clear blue is awesome . 👍
Thanks, its really nice when working with light!! :)
@@swannschilling474 indeed it makes awespme light .
looking foward too.
@Swann Schilling
and @Paulo Gould do you guys think gears are better to print using resin since there are resistant resins and they have an advantage of fdm type? I mean a solid part without layers on top of another
I will still have to make tests to see how they perform, they biggest issue I am seeing so far is warping and shrinking when post curing...also when post curing there is a change in the materials surface and it becomes pretty rough. But I am already using resin parts in one of my gearboxes and it seems to be working fine!
Nice video I will be very interested in dimensional accuracy information for this printer, I have a few printers and my resin ones have been the most difficult to tune to accurate tolerances for proper mechanical assembly's, It can be done of course but takes some careful calibration, and slicer set up. They are excellent for aesthetic parts though.
Yes, that is what I also figured...the warping an shrinking at the post curing is something that might complicate things when it comes to mechanical parts!
Did you see any difference in the dimensional accuracy when tweaking the post curing process, or did you have to set up new tolerances when changing to a new brand of resin?
@@swannschilling474 Part design and slicer settings helped me a lot more than post curing options for me. Although on especially thin parts I have heard it is helpful to make sure you cure all faces consistently/evenly to offset warping which makes sense. hollowing parts where possible helps relieve some of the stresses that can build up and cause warping during curing,
I also tend to go overboard on supports so the shapes don't get distorted while in production, for me it is still quicker to remove too many supports than to reprint a bad part (also resin supports come off Much easier than FDM so using support isn't such a hassle).
Another thing that helps is if it is important for a part to be square (like a gear) I print it square/ parallel to the build plate. I lot of guides tell you to angle everything at 45 degrees which they don't explain is very model dependent (broad example: how do you tip a sphere at 45 degrees exactly?)and also not that big of deal if you don't. The thinking behind the 45 degree thing makes sense sort of, reduce the surface area that has to be peeled from the fep but.. during things like the raft printing it can be peeling a full bed at a time with out issue... so how much does it really matter? It mainly helps in situations where you have very light supports and you don't want to loose your model in the lift. so many of the guides for printing well on resin printers are based around printing aesthetic models and so few use them for the mechanical , or assembly applications so you need to take the guides with a grain of salt as they have different goals with their end product...
Material used can play a role, but I have not seen that big of a difference (but to be fair I have only tried 6 or so different brands) and even if they say things like "build" "accurate" and "engineering" they all seemed to come out about the same in my tests.
The biggest help for getting parts to fit together was tolerance compensation. One of my printers by default added .5mm to every surface!! I spent a while chasing design fixes and other settings before I found tolerance compensation. I then created simple test models with square and round holes and pegs set at different angles and played with tolerance compensation until things fit together correctly and matched the intended measurements. It still isn't perfect from every angle but it is better and The tolerance settings were probably the biggest help, this video explains it: th-cam.com/video/-rEUyR9yoBI/w-d-xo.html
I hope these tips help, there are too few guides based around mechanical fitment and use of resin prints, and machine reviews never bring it up as they always focus on resolution and mini figure printing so it is hard to know what machines may be better. Anycubics new DLP sounds promising but it is small and costly and I am sure formlabs and other laser based machines are better but who can afford that?
😍😍