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Big Turbo VW GTI Lower Engine Build | Project MK5 Ep 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2016
- In episode 1 of our Project MK5, we prepare our engine for the big turbo by building the engine's bottom end. This includes installing the crank, upgraded H Beam rods, and JE pistons on our 2.0t FSI engine, which is going in a VW MK5 GTI.
Be sure to subscribe to check out the rest of our build series.
Parts Talked about in this FSI Engine Build
Main Cap Studs for 2.0t FSI
shopdap.com/cat...
Calico Coated Main Bearing Set for 2.0t FSI
shopdap.com/cat...
Calico Coated Rod Bearing Set for 2.0t FSI
www.shopdap.co...
Integrated Engineering FSI H-Beam Connecting Rods
www.shopdap.co...
This video was shot at
Black Forest Racing
6480 Denver Industrial Park Rd
Denver, NC 28037
Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here
shopdap.com
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VW AUDI Specialty Repair Cornelius NC
www.daprepair....
VW AUDI Specialty Repair Kent Ohio
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Music
Big Bird's Date Night (Full) by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Artist: www.twinmusicom...
Parts Talked about in this FSI Engine Build
Main Cap Studs for 2.0t FSI
shopdap.com/catalog/product/view/id/603589/s/20t-fsi-tsi-arp-main-studs/
Calico Coated Main Bearing Set for 2.0t FSI
shopdap.com/catalog/product/view/id/603588/s/calico-race-main-bearing-set-for-20t-18t-vw-audi/
Calico Coated Rod Bearing Set for 2.0t FSI
www.shopdap.com/calico-coated-acl-race-rod-bearing-set-for-vw-audi-4-cylinder.html
Integrated Engineering FSI H-Beam Connecting Rods
www.shopdap.com/ie-forged-connecting-rods-vw-audi-144x20.html
this has got me drooling. wanna watch episode 2 already
be ready.... Next friday
The engine that rivals this
BMW N46
Mercedes M271
Yes! More FSI content with conjunction of BFI!
Genesis Apostol Black Forest Racing, not BFI ;-). Our shop was in business before the founders of BFI were born ;-).
Excuse my mistake! Nonetheless, I love the collaboration :)
Genesis Apostol a very easy mistake to make!
We are having fun doing these videos too, I hope to do more in the future. We will probably cross over the other way and do one or two on my page.
Can't wait for EP 2! Loving the FSI content!
ill be back for the rest for sure. really neat to see
great glad to hear
Awesome! Cant wait for the next episode. More Mk5 stuff! :)
excellent! I'm buying internals up myself right now, 175 thousand miles on my Mk5 Fahrenheit GLI, I'm both anxious and scared to see what that intake manifold and vavle train looks like, probably dirty as all heck.
looking forward to next week's episode!
Awesome let us know if we can help. All the links to the parts we talked about in the description above
You guys just keep making these DIY and technical videos is a huge help. Do you know how much a high pressure fuel pump replacement on the 2.0t FSI costs at a shop with no warrantee? Silly me, of course you do; well you guys helped me from paying that work fee, didn't take more than an hour to replace, diagnosed before damage to the lobe, again thanks you you guys and Charles over at Humble Mechanic.
Just one question on this build so far really, you mentioned you're lowering the compression stroke, I'm just wondering what your guys are dropping the ratio down to, I think the stock is 10:1, or 10.5/1, pre boost on the FSI, I can only assume you're going K04 or similar spec turbo for the more boost, something I might be doing myself, but longevity is a sticking point for me; it's not my track car, it's my daily, so I need more power safely, and reliably, making sure you're not over boosting you're internals and compression is the best place to start, after that is heat management I believe, so believe me, I'll have more questions for you guys at DAP and Black Forest before this series is finished :)
Thanks guys.
Please use engine assembly lube when assembling an engine in the future...
I was waiting for an explanation of why he didn’t use any, or for him to be “jk that was a dry fit”. But it never happened…
You can have high compression pistons in high boost applications.
Hi Paul I don't get the reason why you guy's change the oil filter adapter because the MK4 oil pump found in 1.8T/TDI/2.0 8V has a built in oil relief valve similar to what mk1,2,3 etc had .
8:32 its better to protect crankshaft from rods falling that way they may damage it
How is this motor holding up today?
Were those pistons ceramic coated?
Thanks for your video !! that was very interesting ! Continue like this !
Hi man ..got my Mk5 engine swap after oil pump failure ..now engine is in and now couldn't start but just cranks ..the car also appears not to be reading the computer box ..what might be the problem ..running out of ideas ..already spent lot of cash on this thing
i sense a giant gust of wind about to just blow through this entire block again hehe but man do i wanna see it make those gust noises hehehe
Did the block not need machined? Main bearing surface didn't look like it had been? Did not include the Oil adapter below. Great videos! I have been enjoying them a lot.
Good question I wish they answered it I want to know if the block needs to be machined for a build like this I have 78k
Awesome, really looking forward to this series. Thanks for posting.
You guys should put some oil on the cylinders and crankshaft next Time
None of your links work anymore, could you update them ?
Hello! A friend is building a 2.0tfsi 06f block for high hp. While looking online he came across thrust washer bearing failure due to the use of uprated clutches. The car uses a 02q manual gearbox. From what we've seen failure affect only manual cars. Many believe it is due to smaller bearing surface of 180 degrees on the 06f block compared to 360 degrees on the 06a block. Have you come across this problem on your mk5 build? Is there a solution for it?
Thanks in advance!
No need to check rod and main bearing clearances ?
From where I can get the oil filter adapter ?
Where can I get one of those oil housing adaptor plates? Looks like IE have stopped making them
Curious if you need to balance the crank?
No oil? Lock tight? Assembly lube?
Hey got a question I have a bpy engine with ie rods and piston I replaced the worn out bearings with new ones I installed it and torque it down to 22ft pounds and now in is very hard to turn the crank what shall I do?
Is it really worth it to port and polish my Mk5 golf cylinder head?
Like it , I actually need generic gti piston for my car , can you give me some one please ?
Question.. at around the 3:30 time in the video you metion that there are 6 bearings with a hole for oil.. is there a particular reason why the 4th cap both bearings uses the oil hole on the bearing?
Looking to rebuild my 2.0 TFSI engine code BPY. Can I use all these parts you listed on my engine?
Great video. Thanks for the show.
However, I'd hate to be a stickler, but you misspelled "professional" in your disclaimer in the video
Thanks for watching and for catching our typo.
I'm curious as to how this engine actually held up??? I have heard from others that did this conversion that they had issues with engine oil pressure being higher or lower than normal after using the 1.8 oil pump conversion and adapter plate setup... were there any issues on this engine build related to higher or lower than normal oil pressure???
I have the 1.8t oil pump but also kept the stock FSI filter housing and have not had any issues and my warm idle oil psi is at 22-23psi and my running oil psi at 3k is roughly 75psi and for info my motor is fully built and dynoed at 373 AWHP at 23.5 psi of boost and currently has 80k miles on it with no issues other than killing clutches...the motor was built by Absolute Automotive back in 2009. If you go to audizine in the B7 section there are a few discussion topics in regards to the oil pump conversions.
@@vizierspty where you located
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 i'm located in Nc
So far engine is good. I do not have the adapter plate with my 1.8t oil pump as mine was done just before there was a kit offered. I change the oil every 5k and check the cam follower every 5k and replace the Cam Follower every 10k no matter what the CF face looks like.
You do not have to drop the compression thas just an option.
SI RICKO depends on the boost level and desired end result. For the power targets of this build I'd agree, but this way it can be more safe to daily drive even on super hot days and not ever have to worry about it.
You didn't show us piston ring gapping ✅
You didn't show us main bearing oil clearances ✅
You didn't show us bore to piston clearances ✅
I’m saying 😂
If you're dropping the compression ratio, how is it not changing the fuel type that is needed to properly have combustion without knocking? Asking for a friend
@7:20
Great video. Man, you make it look so easy.. Can't wait for episode 5, where you custom tune it on the dyno :-)
What are the HP and torque targets you are aiming for?
+GTI_CHHA most likely in the 500 range as we will run into fuel issues any higher. Nothing is as easy as it looks in video : )
Deutsche Auto Parts I’m probably three years late to the party, but your fueling issues (above 500hp) can be solved with the Integrated Engineering port injection kit. Goes hand in hand with their manifold already setup for water/meth.
Hi there, do you not need to check the crankshaft for end play?
Thank the lord. When's the next video
Next video launches next friday
Awesome dude
How were the oil squirters modified? Im currently busy with the same build.
Did you use the original main caps or did you use IE main caps? Where can I see detailled align bore and hone process, I need to be sure if machine shop can do that!!!
Where can I find the oil pump ? That replace the balance shaft module?
You didn't show us blue print and balance
Hello from Germany. Were the oil nozzles sanded off and underlaid with a sealing ring?
Those beats tho!
No assembly lube ✅
No main stud lube ✅
which piston rings did you put on those forged pistons. Original OEM or something special
How did you fix the oil pump pressure issue?
Is there pre-lube on any of these parts?
This isnt a DIY so we didnt show that.
You did not show ring lateral clearance ✅
How much did this build cost? I am thinking about getting block built from iE
5 days of labour and a few thousand in parts lol. Car is essentially a write off unless you are rich or an automotive engineer.
Dude, where is the assembly lube? You mad?
use what type of oil pump , sir ？
not even an oil coating on the piston before install?
We didnt show bc it isnt a DIY
Hi I want to know if the block needs to be machined for a build like this I have 78k? Is it worth swapping oil pump if Im going for much lower HP gains than mentioned?
Francisco Justiniano, as I understand it, the reason for the oil pump conversion has to do with 2 major reasons... first of all there is an issue with the stock (original) oil pump balancing shaft assembly, the setup is a 2 to 1 gear ratio, meaning that for every (1) rotation of the crankshaft, the oil pump balancing shaft assembly turns 2 full revolutions, what this means is that if you are revving your engine at 6000 RPM's or higher, the balancing assembly is rotating at 12.000 RPM's or more... from what I have read and understand, the assembly is not rated for anything over 10,000 RPM's and it will become unstable. the addition heat from turning so fast causes the assembly to literally melt the shaft journals down and lock up (freeze/weld) the shafts in the housing, which in turn takes out the oil pump along with it, this results in the complete elimination of oil flow to the engine, which ultimately causes a catastrophic failure of all the internal engine bearings and components... the second reason for doing away with the oil pump balancing shaft assembly is because it is run by the crankshaft, and it literally steals horsepower from the engine to rotate the heavily weighted balancing shafts, doing away with this assembly free's up the additional horsepower that is actually required to rotate the assembly... with that being said, I have heard from others who have done this conversion that they experienced higher or lower than normal oil pressure after doing the conversion, causing other issues with the engine, so just be aware that this is not what I consider to be a 100% guaranteed solution, at least its not in my honest opinion.... I chose to disable the actual balancing shafts on the original (stock) oil pump balancing shaft assembly by cutting out the drive gear for the balancing shafts themselves,which leaves the original oil pump in place and unaffected, so it is still be able to rotate and do its job as it was originally intended without the balancing shafts being an issue in the future... just be aware of the fact that the balancing shafts original design intention is to smooth out excessive engine vibration, so disabling or eliminating the balancing shafts will ultimately cause a lot of addition engine vibration
Francisco Justiniano ... just my 2-cents worth on the machining question... if you are going to go to the extent of doing all of this (purchasing better rods at $550 for the set and a new set of pistons at $600 to $1000), then machining the block is definitely recommended so that the cylinder bore to piston clearance tolerances can be properly adjusted to the new pistons... but what the hell do I know, I'm just a nobody who's been worked on cars since I was 12 years old (I'm currently 57 years old now, so that's 45 years worth of experience), as far as my advice, you can take it or leave it, that's entirely your choice... just saying I won't take any offense either way... here's the link to a VW/Audi 2.0 FSI / TFSI engine building guide that you may find helpful... www.performancebyie.com/blog/definitive-guide-building-2-0t-fsi-bottom-end/
the weak link in these engines is in both the oil pump balancing shaft assembly and the stock piston rods... the balancing shafts will fail and lock up at high RPM's... also the stock rod's can actually bend and or break at any torque spec exceeding 300 foot pounds of torque, which means that in any engine producing anything over the range of 300 HP, the stocks rods have definitely surpassed their factory specifications and they are subject to possible and probable failure
Can I email your shop my questions on your videos? I want to ask some more tec questions.
HELP!! So I went ahead and finished, and did every mod. I’m stuck now because the oil filter housing is now pushed out so far, I can’t fit my throttle body Y pipe to intercooler on. It hits between the radiator assembly and new 1.8t oil filter housing. Can anyone help a brutha out? Maybe my guy Paul sees this, we got the same name that’s enough destiny right ? Lmfao all kidding aside if anyone sees this and has a two cents Input please let me know!
Outfuckingstanding!!!
What brand of pistons ?
These are the pistons used deutscheautoparts.com/20t-fsi-je-upgraded-fsi-piston.html
I cringe every time people say "porsh".... it's "por-sche".