Check out Brad's full review of the Dewalt Flexvolt DCS520ST1 60V MAX 6-1/2" (165mm) Cordless TrackSaw Kit with 59" Track: th-cam.com/video/MiQynM_pssI/w-d-xo.html
'@Hammer and Home' does the anti kickback function on the dewalt track saw still work with the festool track? If so I would imagine also would work with Makita's track?
That clicking sound is the Super Precision Engagement mechanism kicking in. It increases cut quality by 22%. You are lucky you got that version, not all of them feature that. I would like to find out for sure if the Makita rails are compatible, because they are also really good quality and significantly cheaper.
Yeah mine too .. only complaint was when I went to trim the rubber with the first cut I had it on the edge of the bench and it just ragged the rubber … this doesn’t happen on the festool
It’s great. But if you look at the Milwaukee it has the anti tip on the saw. I wish festool had this option. Makita has it as well. So if. You do miter cuts, it might be worth it.
I appreciate the video! I want to use parallel guides and there isn't much out there for the Dewalt track. I haven't had any issues with it not sticking, but the lack of the top T-Track prevents you from using a bunch of aftermarket accessories. The festool track is about another $150 or so, but long term it's worth it. Thanks for the video
The clicking noise is the interlock: it’s a rod that moves into place when you push the knob with your thumb that allows you to pull the trigger. The tip of that rod runs in the two parallel channels on the inside face of the guard: one channel is involved in locking things out when you change the blade.
Why is DeWalt track double sided? For me is a simple answer. One side 90° cuts and the other side for beveled cuts. The rubber edge on beveled cuts is different from 90° cuts.
@@hammerandhome well I use one side for my dcs572 circ saw and the other side for the flexvolt track saw. They do cut the splinter guard slightly differently.
Its a year old now this guide, but if anyone else has stumbled on to it like me, the Dewalt tracks splinter guide is a fraction too thick if you check it with a flat edge, so this makes the center two strips not make 100% contact with the surface of your work piece and hence slide a bit. It's hit and miss with the rails too so probable down to too much glue or not enough. Quick ruff fix is to sand the splinter guide down on the underside, but you need to be careful of the aluminium edge next to it, id suggest clamping a straight edge on the lip.
@@hammerandhome I do truly think the quality with dewalt tools are different from the uk and USA. It shouldn’t be the case but normally the guys to seem to get the better stuff. Possibly this time round you didn’t.
I’m from the uk and my dewalt rails are ok at best some materials like texted vinyl wrapped board or slightly raised MFC it’s ok but most other materials it will slip and slide. Especially when trying to grab an off cut haha. The festool rail is faire superior. Better grip, ridged construction I will be purchasing a festool rail once my dewalt splinter strips need replacing. Great video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi, just got my Festool track delivered (have the same saw as in the video, DCS520). But the plastic edge of the Festool track is interfering with the blade of the DEWALT saw. Do I cut it off with the saw or is something wrong? Thanks for a great video.
With all track saws it is required that you cut the plastic strip with the saw first. This helps you get the plastic edge perfectly aligned with the inside edge of the saw blade. Watch a couple videos on it before you do it. Don’t cut wood on your first pass.
Glad I found your video and review. After watching it I ordered the festool track rail in your video and I love it. Only thing I noticed is you can not use the Dewalts anti kick back because your not using the center rail guide on the Dewalt track saw.
The DeWalt track is fine in a shop in which you routinely clamp your work and track to an MFT table. In that case, you also usually need (and want) a 102mm or longer track for long rip cuts. However, DeWalt’s longest track is shorter than Festool’s version, and so the long DeWalt track makes it more difficult to clamp and cut full-length sheets of plywood.
I use a makita track with my festool for long rips. It’s over 8’ long. Way cheaper than festools. For decks I just connect as many track together as needed.
Hello Hammer and home, My question to you is today after using the Dewalt Track saw dou recomend the Dewalt or you would consider other brand (Like makita festool etc)???? Thanks for your video.
I could write a lot about this topic. basicly the festool is very expensive, the dewalt is cordless and is a great saw. the corded makita is very similar to the festool but half the price. I have all three and I find myself going for the dewalt all the time. However when i'm using my festool MFT table i always use my festool corded saw. best bang for your buck is probably the Makita. if your on the dewalt platform then I would probably spend a bit more and go with the dewalt. cutting the cord is the best. I can't comment on the cordless festool or the cordless makita. I have never tried them. I also recommend going with the festool track if your getting the dewalt saw. they work together. but get the track with the preset holes in it so if you ever want to get a festool router you are set. good luck
@@hammerandhome Hello, Thanks for your fast reply, there is a special sale for the cordless Makita for 499 because of the holidays that I am considering. Thanks again.
I have the Dewalt tracks and what I've noticed is that if you turn the track upside down, put a straight edge from splinter guard to splinter guard, it doesn't even touch the anti slip pads.
Hi Stuart You are correct. I have two tracks and both are cupped as you have described. One track is so bad that the saw actually rocks from side to side same as if it was balanced on top of a hill. I was overjoyed to find your remark as I was thinking I'd been singly unlucky getting poor tracks. I'd spent quite a lot on DeWalt but have had issues with build quality of more than one tool and now I think DeWalt is not good at all considering the costs involved. I found this video when I was double checking if the DeWalt tracksaw would run along a Makita track .... But yeah --- I feel quite happy noting it just isn't me and DeWalt's rubbish. Another one of life's hard lessons and the power of brand marketing.
@@hammerandhome question, why did you purchase the DeWalt saw? The Festool is basically at the top with Mafell. Mikita, Metabo and Bosch is further up in the pecking order as a matter of fact DeWalt Track saw falls at the bottom, Milwaukee isn't even out for 2 weeks yet and it blow by DeWalt like nothing. Unless you have fingers of a little Chinese woman the battery and everything is in the way. I don't understand your purpose because Festool is leap and bounds in every way above DeWalt except raw power.. Be honest would you have bought that exact same saw if was red or blue?
@@rickyperkins232 I love my festool for finishing work. You can’t beat it, and I bought my makita for cutting cement board and hardy siding. I didn’t want to wreck my festool. Then along came dewalt with its cordless option. So I bought that for some framing but mostly deck work. For me the blades on festool are the best so it stays safe in the shop. Milwaukee looks really nice. Better than dewalt and makita for sure. I might have to take a closer look at it 😬
I think that you may just have been unlucky with your particular Dewalt track. I’ve got two 1.5m lengths that as you said “thick like glue” on the work face. No drama whatsoever. Moreover, the other side of the Dewalt track can be used for 45 degree cuts. Personally, I find that an advantage.
i do believe that because this was the first gen saw, i got a lemon of a track. I never use it so it dosnt matter to me. but I hear that the new tracks are way better
Hi Brad, could you do a review on the DeWalt 572 circular saw, will work on the festool track? I have 18V XR batteries but not willing to jump to 54V Flexvolt batteries.
@@hammerandhome I have the dcs572 with track. Great saw, but I don’t use the track, I actually prefer using a different straight edge. I just can’t really get on with the combo,. For me when I tighten up the screws to avoid saw wobble when on the track it made it very hard to slide smoothly, so I ditched the idea, so the track sits gathering dust now.
Ok, back track on my last post. I since dialled my dcs572 in on the track and it cuts perfectly. But I went and bought the flexvolt tracksaw anyway and it’s a game changer for me. I can see it replacing my dw745 table saw for most uses.
I bought a Dewalt DWE576K and a Festool rail in a hope they would be compatible, based on this video and some other mentions I'd found on the internet. However, now that I tried to put the saw on the rail, I found out the rail (the aluminum body) is approx. 6 mm (~0.24 in) too wide and the blade would cut into it. Has anyone experienced this? Do you think it would make sense to unstick the splinter guard, put the saw on the rail and cut through it to trim it to size, restick the splinter guard and trim it as well? I think it might work, but am afraid to do that as the rail was fairly expensive and I'm not sure about the final result. I also don't know if the splinter guard would adhere enough to the rail and how to trim the rail to ensure some clearance between the blade and rail (for angle cuts or when a thicker blade is used). I'd be grateful for any suggestions on how to solve this (how to trim the rail if the risk is worth it, or whether I should rather return it and buy a Dewalt rail, albeit with an inferior quality compared to Festool).
Hi, so the saw in this video is the DCS520. It looks like it’s designed for the dewalt track, my recommendation would be to return the festool track and order the dewalt track. Dewalt probably did the design change on that saw to make sure people only bought there track. The good news is there track is a lot better than it used to be. I have the original model.
@@hammerandhome It looks like there are differences either between the cordless and corded saw, or the rail design must have been changed for the newer models (however I never saw anything like that mentioned in the rail descriptions). It's a shame Dewalt make good saws, but incompatible with the rest of manufacturers :-/. I hope the Dewalt rails are better nowadays, I didn't know that, and thus I opted for the Festool track (plus I read some negative comments from people who received a bent track). Thank you for the hopefully good news :-).
Thanks ..... since i've been purchasing and using dewalt cordless miter saw. I've been looking to invest in cordless track saw, I have a festool one with cord & there tracks. so thank you for that ..... now to make a purchase !
I have dewalt track and it has a sticky foamy kind of strips, closer to the middle + anti-tearout gum on the edges. Maybe your's got the anti tearout gum too thick or with too much glue on it, making it slide because there's less contact in the middle section to workpiece. Honestly i only clamp then making cuts over a 1m or so, or when I know it just must be perfect first time. Other than that it just lays over.
Has about the DeWalt on Makita track does it work? How does Makita track compare. Know from other videos you have the Makita track and it is $128 for 2 55" tracks and connector.
Are those blade you using the dewalt 48t ultra fine blades? Those blade are thicker that the original blade that came with it the 45t. Once you use the 48t u can not go back to the 45 since your track rail will be offset and will not be accurate.
This isn’t going to help you much but I’ve had the Dewalt track saw for nearly three years and mine makes the same noise, like you it doesn’t sound Wright but I’ve also had no issues with the saw?..
Brad, I've no problem with you preferring the Festool rail. It may well work better than the Dewalt. However, Dewalt DO make a router rail attachment for dado work (Dewalt ref:DWS5031-XJ). Also, personally, I find once the saw is on the rail its weight prevents the rail from sliding - so quick cuts are no problem. However, most times I do use the clamps - as they cost very little compared to the cost of the rail/saw combo and make sense from a H&S point of view too :)
I have talked with a lot of guys about the rail and I think I have a bad rail. sounds like dewalt has fixed the issue with the pads. since i posted this video dewalt came out with the router attachment and it looks pretty sweet. thanks for watching
Hello, I'm considering to buy a corded version of this saw. I'm a beginner in woodwork and safety feachers of this model, such as riving knife and kickback stopper, are necessary for me. The only parameter of the saw that stops me to buy it- is RPM. Does 4000 rpm enough? Other brands saws has over 5000 RPMs, does more speed helps? How do you choose RPMs, or you just cut everything on max speed?
good question, from my experience this saw will cut mdf, particle board, plywoods, osb no problem. I haven't used it on hardwoods yet and im always running it on full RPM. the corded Milwaukee is a really nice saw as well and a bit cheaper too i think. as far as your RPM question the difference between 4000 and 5000 rpm is not significant. I don't think you need to be too concerned with it,
Good evening Brad, FYI for anyone considering the use of Festool rails with the Dewalt cordless track saw...I just bought this saw (love it!) but it won't work on my Festool rails. Or, I should say it rides on the rails but the saw would not only cut off all the splinter guard strip but also cut about 1/8" into the aluminum along the edge of the rail. So the Festool rails are a no-go, at least for my Dewalt cordless track saw.
I recently purchased a Festool rail, but the Dewalt saw blade was very close to shaving the aluminium. After half an hour tweaking the Dewalt TS plate with some calipers to move the blade away and get it square again, I was able to use my Dewalt TS on the Festool rail without issue. I'm looking into the TSO guide system right now, but need to be mindful to get the slide-on adapter rather than the drop-on as the drop-on will interfere with the Dewalt TS plate, and stop the saw in the rail I believe.
@@xerofxxx I didn't spend the time like you did, and if I had maybe mine would work as well. I ended up buying two DW guide rails and have been happy with them. I've liked using the cordless DW so much that I haven't had the Festool TS-55 corded saw out of its systainer.
You can use the festool clamps in the dewalt track and interchange the rubbers, problem comes when I use my dewalt plung saw on the festool track it cuts the splinter rubber slightly more than my festool saw so the you get a false reading
@@hammerandhome festool are definitely a higher quality track, I’ll be switching over. Regards the dewalt I haven’t had too much issue with slip once the weight of the saw is on the track too, but the joining is unforgivable. I’ll put a video over if I ever find my joining bar!
Could someone help me please as I have just bought the dewalt ds 576 and it is not compatible with the festool rail at all but all reports say it is .. totally confused
from what i have seen its not, the ds 576 is coming up as the flexvolt circular saw, not a track saw. the dewalt track saw (dcs 520) is compatible with the festool track
Yeah the 576 is sold as a circular saw with a track base for use with the rail .. ( very useful indeed ) the only shame is they have for some reason made the track only compatible with the dewalt track … slightly annoying but I’ve now just bought myself a dewalt track … will just sell my festool one as I had already sold my festool saw
@@bradbrad3937 interesting, I haven’t seen this saw yet. To bad they didn’t make the base the same as there track saw. Then it could fit on the festool. Thx for the info
May check your riding knife mechanism. It is engaging when you put down the saw for cutting. So it could sometimes make a noise and sometimes it doesn‘t. There could be an edge or a rolling spring that is the reason for that sound. May this information is a little help to solve that bug. Cheers from 🇩🇪
So I think it had something to do with the blade lock. Because now it doesn’t make the sound anymore, but it also won’t lock the blade if I need to change it out. So one problem solved and another created 😬
@@hammerandhome Allright, that sounds worse. I will receive my dw 520 (cord Version) in a few days and after this i will check out the saw for that. Thank‘s a lot for making your video 👍👍🙋🏻♂️
im sure you found out the clicking problem land the lever on the track saw should not be over the blade lock switch .push down saw and reverse turn the knob clockwise...it shouldnt be over top of the blade lock button and its clicking because its trying to engaging the switch to change the blade but its not fully pressed so it doesnt lock fully instead its clicking pass the locking mechanism
I bought the router attachment with one of the dewalt routers for the attachment and when you tighten the accessory into the base it raises the router off your workpiece about a 16th of an inch, resulting in undesired outcomes. Called support and said there was nothing then can do.
@@patrickrogers2946 thanks for the info, I haven't tried that mount yet. I have the festool router and mounting system so not sure if i will ever try dewalts. thanks for watching
Just recently purchased this tracksaw and when I move it around I can hear something rattling around on the inside. Sounds almost like a screw is loose and moving around. Before I either return it or totally disassemble to troubleshoot, anyone else have a similar issue?
I agree with you and Henrik Larsson below. The Festool track is just more solid, has better anti slip and 2 thicker joining bars when you're using 2 tracks which keeps them straight. Dewalt has 1 joining rail in the centre so ihas some sideways flex. I love Dewalt, just not their guide rails.
Good video! It is also a complete nightmare to connect two Dewalt tracks together and like a dream with Festool. I think that Dewalt do very smart and good tools but the track i guess they gave up and think that everyone going for Festool anyway hehe. I have the Tracksaw and it do not make that sound that yours do so its something wrong about yours i guess. I see in comments here that many of you have the klick noice can it be some security thing for the plunching button that is in the laws in your country? Mine is absolut silent when i do the same move.
Fully agree with you Henrik. I bought two Dewalt tracks thinking of longer cuts - worktops & full 8ft sheets. Joining Dewalt tracks is a joke. 100% not fit for purpose and you absolutely cannot fix them together to obtain a stable continuous straight edge. Cheapest trash - except they are expensive to buy. I get annoyed even recalling my finding out the hard way. I spent several thousands two years ago on kitting up with DeWalt but no way will I go with DeWalt again. Biscuit jointer, Track saw, Tracks and even a site radio not good enough straight out the box. I have made another remark here about DW tracks. Mine were cupped, not flat, making it impossible to get the saw to cut at 90 degrees or any angle accurately. Cupping was so bad the saw actually rocked from side to side like balanced on top of a hill. Trash indeed.
@@hammerandhome so I just unboxed my saw, the 1st thing I looked for was a click. There's is definitely a click. It's part of it's function. It does it at the same spot Everytime. So as far as I can tell there's nothing to be driven crazy about 🤣 lol enjoy
Nice. I've been looking at Festools specific parallel guides. I just bought the Dewalt square rails though. Not sure why I didn't think to check. I could have just bought the square rails and parallel guides for festool. Argh!!
Thanks for the rundown and recommendation. The DeWalt tracks are trash! Also, they don't even sell the 102" (which isn't even long enough to cut a sheet lengthwise do to the weird plunging).
I love the Dewalt for the portability and because i'm on the platform, it works with the festool vac hoses that i use and the dewalt vac hoses. it has really good power. I also have the corded Festool and Makita, I love the Festool and only use it for finishing, The blade selection that Festool offers is amazing, especially if your into cabinetry. keep in mind the blades for theses tools are not your regular blade that you buy at HD or lowes. they are expensive and dewalt can be hard to find some times.
I have the Makita tracksaw and co worker has the dewalt. I dont like the way you have to push the dewalt forward and down to plunge and the track being 2 sided dont like how it works on MFT tables. I refuse to let him use it on my table with dogs. Seeings it works with festool type track its the only way i can see it working with dogs on a MFT.
Your supposed to press in the safety release and trigger at the same time. If you only press on the trigger and not the thumb safety release you will hear those funny sounds. When you used your thumb to push the safety release and trigger it didn’t happen
Loved the video, ordered a festool track after this, was on the edge tbh. However can you PLEASE for the love of EVERY headphone wearing user watching your videos, edit the volume or somthing when you turn on a saw, JESUS H F*** that was loud. Love the content, just some constructive criticism. Keep the dust flying.
Fail. Not sure why you would ever make a cut without using clamps. Routers work fine with DeWalt track. Not sure what you are talking about. You are surrounded by Dewalt tools and the only Festool i see is that track. But the weird part is that you totally failed to address the real advantage of the Festool track and that is in joining tracks together. It's as if you only make 4 foot cuts. Who only does that? I make 16' cuts. DeWalts only connect with one bar, whereas the Festool uses two, making it a stronger connection. But you should always check your joints with a straight edge anyway.
@@powskier I rarely use clamps for my track saws. I do use them when I’m routing. I’m only showing one track in the video but I do have many different sizes and more festool tools then anyone should own 😂 the new dewalt tracks have been improved since the first gen. They stick better and don’t require clamps.
@@hammerandhome With the cost of materials these days, I will not be lazy and take the extra time. It's worth it. Besides, with quick grip track clamps, it takes very little time anyway.
Also please don't say 'YOU HAVE TO' buy dewalt clamps. Thats an insult to most DIYers :P I made mine basically for free from what was laying around. Any old quick clamp can be modified to work with the track
Check out Brad's full review of the Dewalt Flexvolt DCS520ST1 60V MAX 6-1/2" (165mm) Cordless TrackSaw Kit with 59" Track:
th-cam.com/video/MiQynM_pssI/w-d-xo.html
'@Hammer and Home' does the anti kickback function on the dewalt track saw still work with the festool track? If so I would imagine also would work with Makita's track?
That clicking sound is the Super Precision Engagement mechanism kicking in. It increases cut quality by 22%. You are lucky you got that version, not all of them feature that.
I would like to find out for sure if the Makita rails are compatible, because they are also really good quality and significantly cheaper.
I got a makita rail and it is bend. Bad quality.
if i only knew that 10 days ago..you are the video i was looking for in all youtube..i bought the dewalt rail now..
Wow ! Thanks for watching. Still a great track , my suggestion is change out the pads on the bottom to festool.
My dewalt rail grips really well. No problems or issues. Bought mine in the UK.
that's good to hear, maybe they fixed it
Yeah mine too .. only complaint was when I went to trim the rubber with the first cut I had it on the edge of the bench and it just ragged the rubber … this doesn’t happen on the festool
@@bradbrad3937 was your blade brand new when you did that ? Must be new or it will shred the splinter guard.
So nice that it interchanges with a festool, I’ve been with a ts55 since early 2000 and I want a cordless, this dewalt looks like it fits the bill
It’s great. But if you look at the Milwaukee it has the anti tip on the saw. I wish festool had this option. Makita has it as well. So if. You do miter cuts, it might be worth it.
I appreciate the video! I want to use parallel guides and there isn't much out there for the Dewalt track. I haven't had any issues with it not sticking, but the lack of the top T-Track prevents you from using a bunch of aftermarket accessories. The festool track is about another $150 or so, but long term it's worth it. Thanks for the video
@@bassettsignswoodworkingllc5363 my pleasure, I ended up buying some makita tracks for my festool saws, they are half the price
Just brought a dewalt saw and tracks , and I cannot budge my track at all it’s amazing non slip , brought in the uk
i guess my track was the first generation, i have heard that its way better now
The clicking noise is the interlock: it’s a rod that moves into place when you push the knob with your thumb that allows you to pull the trigger. The tip of that rod runs in the two parallel channels on the inside face of the guard: one channel is involved in locking things out when you change the blade.
Thank you very much!
Is that a fact in all countrys over the world?
My saw do not sounds like that and have not ever.
Why is DeWalt track double sided? For me is a simple answer. One side 90° cuts and the other side for beveled cuts. The rubber edge on beveled cuts is different from 90° cuts.
I think you got it right! that's my thinking.
@@hammerandhome well I use one side for my dcs572 circ saw and the other side for the flexvolt track saw. They do cut the splinter guard slightly differently.
There’s that and also for blade type and kirf, I’d use one side for timber and the other side for fibre cement
Something must be wrong with your saw cus mine cuts at 90 and 45 on the same line, I love that saw
Its a year old now this guide, but if anyone else has stumbled on to it like me, the Dewalt tracks splinter guide is a fraction too thick if you check it with a flat edge, so this makes the center two strips not make 100% contact with the surface of your work piece and hence slide a bit. It's hit and miss with the rails too so probable down to too much glue or not enough. Quick ruff fix is to sand the splinter guide down on the underside, but you need to be careful of the aluminium edge next to it, id suggest clamping a straight edge on the lip.
thanks for the tip! all I use now is my festool tracks, I have about 5 of them so if i ever need to make up a long track they are great.
I replaced the pads on the bottom with the festool ones job done. But saying that I didn’t have a problem with the old ones.
i must have bad pads on mine. always slipping around on me.
@@hammerandhome I do truly think the quality with dewalt tools are different from the uk and USA. It shouldn’t be the case but normally the guys to seem to get the better stuff.
Possibly this time round you didn’t.
@@markjarman7819 yeah must be. I’m also in Canada and we get everything last. So that always sucks.
@@hammerandhome sorry I didn’t see that. It’s a fine place. My Nan was Canadian.
I’m from the uk and my dewalt rails are ok at best some materials like texted vinyl wrapped board or slightly raised MFC it’s ok but most other materials it will slip and slide. Especially when trying to grab an off cut haha. The festool rail is faire superior. Better grip, ridged construction I will be purchasing a festool rail once my dewalt splinter strips need replacing.
Great video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi, just got my Festool track delivered (have the same saw as in the video, DCS520). But the plastic edge of the Festool track is interfering with the blade of the DEWALT saw. Do I cut it off with the saw or is something wrong?
Thanks for a great video.
With all track saws it is required that you cut the plastic strip with the saw first. This helps you get the plastic edge perfectly aligned with the inside edge of the saw blade. Watch a couple videos on it before you do it. Don’t cut wood on your first pass.
Glad I found your video and review. After watching it I ordered the festool track rail in your video and I love it. Only thing I noticed is you can not use the Dewalts anti kick back because your not using the center rail guide on the Dewalt track saw.
that's true, I have never had a kick back on a track saw. the riving knife and that track really help prevent kick back. enjoy :)
@@hammerandhome agree 💯 %
The DeWalt track is fine in a shop in which you routinely clamp your work and track to an MFT table. In that case, you also usually need (and want) a 102mm or longer track for long rip cuts. However, DeWalt’s longest track is shorter than Festool’s version, and so the long DeWalt track makes it more difficult to clamp and cut full-length sheets of plywood.
I use a makita track with my festool for long rips. It’s over 8’ long. Way cheaper than festools. For decks I just connect as many track together as needed.
Hello Hammer and home, My question to you is today after using the Dewalt Track saw dou recomend the Dewalt or you would consider other brand (Like makita festool etc)???? Thanks for your video.
I could write a lot about this topic. basicly the festool is very expensive, the dewalt is cordless and is a great saw. the corded makita is very similar to the festool but half the price. I have all three and I find myself going for the dewalt all the time. However when i'm using my festool MFT table i always use my festool corded saw. best bang for your buck is probably the Makita. if your on the dewalt platform then I would probably spend a bit more and go with the dewalt. cutting the cord is the best. I can't comment on the cordless festool or the cordless makita. I have never tried them. I also recommend going with the festool track if your getting the dewalt saw. they work together. but get the track with the preset holes in it so if you ever want to get a festool router you are set. good luck
@@hammerandhome Hello, Thanks for your fast reply, there is a special sale for the cordless Makita for 499 because of the holidays that I am considering. Thanks again.
@@wwmilanl what ever track saw you pick, it will change how you build, so much faster and safer than other methods, not to mention deadly accurate
I have the Dewalt tracks and what I've noticed is that if you turn the track upside down, put a straight edge from splinter guard to splinter guard, it doesn't even touch the anti slip pads.
wow. and that's why I like the festool track, thanks for sharing.
Hi Stuart
You are correct.
I have two tracks and both are cupped as you have described. One track is so bad that the saw actually rocks from side to side same as if it was balanced on top of a hill. I was overjoyed to find your remark as I was thinking I'd been singly unlucky getting poor tracks.
I'd spent quite a lot on DeWalt but have had issues with build quality of more than one tool and now I think DeWalt is not good at all considering the costs involved.
I found this video when I was double checking if the DeWalt tracksaw would run along a Makita track ....
But yeah --- I feel quite happy noting it just isn't me and DeWalt's rubbish.
Another one of life's hard lessons and the power of brand marketing.
@@hammerandhome question, why did you purchase the DeWalt saw? The Festool is basically at the top with Mafell. Mikita, Metabo and Bosch is further up in the pecking order as a matter of fact DeWalt Track saw falls at the bottom, Milwaukee isn't even out for 2 weeks yet and it blow by DeWalt like nothing.
Unless you have fingers of a little Chinese woman the battery and everything is in the way.
I don't understand your purpose because Festool is leap and bounds in every way above DeWalt except raw power..
Be honest would you have bought that exact same saw if was red or blue?
@@rickyperkins232 I love my festool for finishing work. You can’t beat it, and I bought my makita for cutting cement board and hardy siding. I didn’t want to wreck my festool. Then along came dewalt with its cordless option. So I bought that for some framing but mostly deck work. For me the blades on festool are the best so it stays safe in the shop. Milwaukee looks really nice. Better than dewalt and makita for sure. I might have to take a closer look at it 😬
@@hammerandhome Okay I just know the Festool is Premium and the DeWalt is on the opposite side of the spectrum when it comes to track saws
Love festool as well,,but way out of my diy budget. Am sure you pros can benefit from their quality!
I bought the dewalt corded version and it came with two 5 ft tracks and tstak...I absolutely love it. I will get the router attachment next
I use bosch biturbo tracksaw with festool trank and hoover. And bt not works with hoover then i use festool remote to start hoover
Consult, does the saw have a depth stop to make an incisor cut and then the final cut? such as the sierra makita sp600j
anti kick mechanism?
I think that you may just have been unlucky with your particular Dewalt track. I’ve got two 1.5m lengths that as you said “thick like glue” on the work face. No drama whatsoever. Moreover, the other side of the Dewalt track can be used for 45 degree cuts. Personally, I find that an advantage.
i do believe that because this was the first gen saw, i got a lemon of a track. I never use it so it dosnt matter to me. but I hear that the new tracks are way better
Active kickback!!! U have buttons on/off ( exactly under engine, on aluminium plate)
Hi Brad, could you do a review on the DeWalt 572 circular saw, will work on the festool track?
I have 18V XR batteries but not willing to jump to 54V Flexvolt batteries.
I wish I could, we don't have this in Canada, I would love to have this saw!!
@@hammerandhome I have the dcs572 with track. Great saw, but I don’t use the track, I actually prefer using a different straight edge. I just can’t really get on with the combo,. For me when I tighten up the screws to avoid saw wobble when on the track it made it very hard to slide smoothly, so I ditched the idea, so the track sits gathering dust now.
Ok, back track on my last post. I since dialled my dcs572 in on the track and it cuts perfectly. But I went and bought the flexvolt tracksaw anyway and it’s a game changer for me. I can see it replacing my dw745 table saw for most uses.
@@kevinjackson5191 thanks Kev,
I've just ordered myself a Festool tsc55 keb, will be trimming the splinter guard hopefully weekend after our holiday
@kevinjackson5191 which track did you use was it the Festool one?
I bought a Dewalt DWE576K and a Festool rail in a hope they would be compatible, based on this video and some other mentions I'd found on the internet. However, now that I tried to put the saw on the rail, I found out the rail (the aluminum body) is approx. 6 mm (~0.24 in) too wide and the blade would cut into it. Has anyone experienced this?
Do you think it would make sense to unstick the splinter guard, put the saw on the rail and cut through it to trim it to size, restick the splinter guard and trim it as well? I think it might work, but am afraid to do that as the rail was fairly expensive and I'm not sure about the final result. I also don't know if the splinter guard would adhere enough to the rail and how to trim the rail to ensure some clearance between the blade and rail (for angle cuts or when a thicker blade is used).
I'd be grateful for any suggestions on how to solve this (how to trim the rail if the risk is worth it, or whether I should rather return it and buy a Dewalt rail, albeit with an inferior quality compared to Festool).
Hi, so the saw in this video is the DCS520. It looks like it’s designed for the dewalt track, my recommendation would be to return the festool track and order the dewalt track. Dewalt probably did the design change on that saw to make sure people only bought there track. The good news is there track is a lot better than it used to be. I have the original model.
@@hammerandhome It looks like there are differences either between the cordless and corded saw, or the rail design must have been changed for the newer models (however I never saw anything like that mentioned in the rail descriptions). It's a shame Dewalt make good saws, but incompatible with the rest of manufacturers :-/. I hope the Dewalt rails are better nowadays, I didn't know that, and thus I opted for the Festool track (plus I read some negative comments from people who received a bent track). Thank you for the hopefully good news :-).
Thanks ..... since i've been purchasing and using dewalt cordless miter saw. I've been looking to invest in cordless track saw, I have a festool one with cord & there tracks. so thank you for that ..... now to make a purchase !
I have dewalt track and it has a sticky foamy kind of strips, closer to the middle + anti-tearout gum on the edges. Maybe your's got the anti tearout gum too thick or with too much glue on it, making it slide because there's less contact in the middle section to workpiece.
Honestly i only clamp then making cuts over a 1m or so, or when I know it just must be perfect first time. Other than that it just lays over.
Will a dws5031 work with a kreg track?
Has about the DeWalt on Makita track does it work? How does Makita track compare. Know from other videos you have the Makita track and it is $128 for 2 55" tracks and connector.
... you can use the rip fence guide from Festool on this circular saw
Are those blade you using the dewalt 48t ultra fine blades? Those blade are thicker that the original blade that came with it the 45t. Once you use the 48t u can not go back to the 45 since your track rail will be offset and will not be accurate.
You just buy a replacement rubber splinter guard.
This isn’t going to help you much but I’ve had the Dewalt track saw for nearly three years and mine makes the same noise, like you it doesn’t sound Wright but I’ve also had no issues with the saw?..
thanks, I appreciate the feedback :)
Yup it does make the sound and it’s normal
Brad, I've no problem with you preferring the Festool rail. It may well work better than the Dewalt. However, Dewalt DO make a router rail attachment for dado work (Dewalt ref:DWS5031-XJ). Also, personally, I find once the saw is on the rail its weight prevents the rail from sliding - so quick cuts are no problem. However, most times I do use the clamps - as they cost very little compared to the cost of the rail/saw combo and make sense from a H&S point of view too :)
I have talked with a lot of guys about the rail and I think I have a bad rail. sounds like dewalt has fixed the issue with the pads. since i posted this video dewalt came out with the router attachment and it looks pretty sweet. thanks for watching
Hello, I'm considering to buy a corded version of this saw. I'm a beginner in woodwork and safety feachers of this model, such as riving knife and kickback stopper, are necessary for me. The only parameter of the saw that stops me to buy it- is RPM. Does 4000 rpm enough? Other brands saws has over 5000 RPMs, does more speed helps? How do you choose RPMs, or you just cut everything on max speed?
good question, from my experience this saw will cut mdf, particle board, plywoods, osb no problem. I haven't used it on hardwoods yet and im always running it on full RPM. the corded Milwaukee is a really nice saw as well and a bit cheaper too i think. as far as your RPM question the difference between 4000 and 5000 rpm is not significant. I don't think you need to be too concerned with it,
Good evening Brad, FYI for anyone considering the use of Festool rails with the Dewalt cordless track saw...I just bought this saw (love it!) but it won't work on my Festool rails. Or, I should say it rides on the rails but the saw would not only cut off all the splinter guard strip but also cut about 1/8" into the aluminum along the edge of the rail. So the Festool rails are a no-go, at least for my Dewalt cordless track saw.
very interesting. I do own the very first version of this so maybe dewalt has changed something . thanks for sharing your experience
I recently purchased a Festool rail, but the Dewalt saw blade was very close to shaving the aluminium. After half an hour tweaking the Dewalt TS plate with some calipers to move the blade away and get it square again, I was able to use my Dewalt TS on the Festool rail without issue. I'm looking into the TSO guide system right now, but need to be mindful to get the slide-on adapter rather than the drop-on as the drop-on will interfere with the Dewalt TS plate, and stop the saw in the rail I believe.
@@xerofxxx I didn't spend the time like you did, and if I had maybe mine would work as well. I ended up buying two DW guide rails and have been happy with them. I've liked using the cordless DW so much that I haven't had the Festool TS-55 corded saw out of its systainer.
Do you cut without it being clamped? I just don't think I could cut without it being clamped. Maybe its a mental thing.
You can use the festool clamps in the dewalt track and interchange the rubbers, problem comes when I use my dewalt plung saw on the festool track it cuts the splinter rubber slightly more than my festool saw so the you get a false reading
Try joining two of the dewalt tracks, it’s a joke the play in the joining bar is crazy, love the saw though
I only have the one track and I think I’ve used it twice. I stick to the festool track. Thx for the info on joining the two dewalts.
@@hammerandhome festool are definitely a higher quality track, I’ll be switching over. Regards the dewalt I haven’t had too much issue with slip once the weight of the saw is on the track too, but the joining is unforgivable. I’ll put a video over if I ever find my joining bar!
There is only play if you leave a gap.
Could someone help me please as I have just bought the dewalt ds 576 and it is not compatible with the festool rail at all but all reports say it is .. totally confused
from what i have seen its not, the ds 576 is coming up as the flexvolt circular saw, not a track saw. the dewalt track saw (dcs 520) is compatible with the festool track
Yeah the 576 is sold as a circular saw with a track base for use with the rail .. ( very useful indeed ) the only shame is they have for some reason made the track only compatible with the dewalt track … slightly annoying but I’ve now just bought myself a dewalt track … will just sell my festool one as I had already sold my festool saw
@@bradbrad3937 interesting, I haven’t seen this saw yet. To bad they didn’t make the base the same as there track saw. Then it could fit on the festool. Thx for the info
May check your riding knife mechanism. It is engaging when you put down the saw for cutting. So it could sometimes make a noise and sometimes it doesn‘t. There could be an edge or a rolling spring that is the reason for that sound. May this information is a little help to solve that bug. Cheers from 🇩🇪
So I think it had something to do with the blade lock. Because now it doesn’t make the sound anymore, but it also won’t lock the blade if I need to change it out. So one problem solved and another created 😬
@@hammerandhome Allright, that sounds worse. I will receive my dw 520 (cord Version) in a few days
and after this i will check out the saw for that. Thank‘s a lot for making your video 👍👍🙋🏻♂️
You know you can buy the festool tape for any track right!?
yup
The clicking sounds like the spring catching or turning on its hook. (To me)
im sure you found out the clicking problem land the lever on the track saw should not be over the blade lock switch .push down saw and reverse turn the knob clockwise...it shouldnt be over top of the blade lock button and its clicking because its trying to engaging the switch to change the blade but its not fully pressed so it doesnt lock fully instead its clicking pass the locking mechanism
thanks for the great feedback, yeah i did figure it out but now the blade doesn't lock, so i think it might be a bit broken
DeWalt has a router accessory for use with their track for under $60.
yeah I saw that yesterday, very sweet. I might have to get it :)
I bought the router attachment with one of the dewalt routers for the attachment and when you tighten the accessory into the base it raises the router off your workpiece about a 16th of an inch, resulting in undesired outcomes. Called support and said there was nothing then can do.
@@patrickrogers2946 thanks for the info, I haven't tried that mount yet. I have the festool router and mounting system so not sure if i will ever try dewalts. thanks for watching
Just recently purchased this tracksaw and when I move it around I can hear something rattling around on the inside. Sounds almost like a screw is loose and moving around. Before I either return it or totally disassemble to troubleshoot, anyone else have a similar issue?
I agree with you and Henrik Larsson below. The Festool track is just more solid, has better anti slip and 2 thicker joining bars when you're using 2 tracks which keeps them straight. Dewalt has 1 joining rail in the centre so ihas some sideways flex. I love Dewalt, just not their guide rails.
thanks for watching
Good video!
It is also a complete nightmare to connect two Dewalt tracks together and like a dream with Festool.
I think that Dewalt do very smart and good tools but the track i guess they gave up and think that everyone going for Festool anyway hehe.
I have the Tracksaw and it do not make that sound that yours do so its something wrong about yours i guess.
I see in comments here that many of you have the klick noice can it be some security thing for the plunching button that is in the laws in your country?
Mine is absolut silent when i do the same move.
I am from Sweden so thats why the miss spelling hehe
very interesting, I have also noticed mine starting to jam up on the top button. I thinks something is wrong. thanks for watching
no worries, thanks for sharing!
Fully agree with you Henrik. I bought two Dewalt tracks thinking of longer cuts - worktops & full 8ft sheets. Joining Dewalt tracks is a joke. 100% not fit for purpose and you absolutely cannot fix them together to obtain a stable continuous straight edge. Cheapest trash - except they are expensive to buy.
I get annoyed even recalling my finding out the hard way. I spent several thousands two years ago on kitting up with DeWalt but no way will I go with DeWalt again.
Biscuit jointer, Track saw, Tracks and even a site radio not good enough straight out the box.
I have made another remark here about DW tracks. Mine were cupped, not flat, making it impossible to get the saw to cut at 90 degrees or any angle accurately. Cupping was so bad the saw actually rocked from side to side like balanced on top of a hill.
Trash indeed.
I finally bought the dewalt track saw after eyeing for well over a year...
I'll report back to you if my saw clicks when it comes in the mail.
thanks!
@@hammerandhome so I just unboxed my saw, the 1st thing I looked for was a click. There's is definitely a click. It's part of it's function. It does it at the same spot Everytime. So as far as I can tell there's nothing to be driven crazy about 🤣 lol enjoy
Classic ESO here.
Does anyone know - Can I run Dewalt saw on Mafell/Bosch track new FSN 1600 ?
Nope- totally different.
Nice. I've been looking at Festools specific parallel guides. I just bought the Dewalt square rails though. Not sure why I didn't think to check. I could have just bought the square rails and parallel guides for festool. Argh!!
You need to push the bad lock more forward
Thanks i'll take a look
Thanks for the rundown and recommendation. The DeWalt tracks are trash! Also, they don't even sell the 102" (which isn't even long enough to cut a sheet lengthwise do to the weird plunging).
I am in the market to buy one and have been looking at the Dewalt big fan of Dewalt any comments
I love the Dewalt for the portability and because i'm on the platform, it works with the festool vac hoses that i use and the dewalt vac hoses. it has really good power. I also have the corded Festool and Makita, I love the Festool and only use it for finishing, The blade selection that Festool offers is amazing, especially if your into cabinetry. keep in mind the blades for theses tools are not your regular blade that you buy at HD or lowes. they are expensive and dewalt can be hard to find some times.
Disregard that previous comment, Brad. I just needed to scroll down a little to find the track with the holes. :-)
I have the Makita tracksaw and co worker has the dewalt. I dont like the way you have to push the dewalt forward and down to plunge and the track being 2 sided dont like how it works on MFT tables. I refuse to let him use it on my table with dogs. Seeings it works with festool type track its the only way i can see it working with dogs on a MFT.
this saw definitely takes some getting used to, even after using it for years I still find the motion a bit strange
I use a Dewalt track on an MFT with dogs but I cut the splinter guard off one side to ensure i could get it be square
that noise might be the anti kick back thing . lol !
Well... it’s fixed now but the blade lock button is broken 😞 so something is buggerd up
Your supposed to press in the safety release and trigger at the same time. If you only press on the trigger and not the thumb safety release you will hear those funny sounds. When you used your thumb to push the safety release and trigger it didn’t happen
good tip, ill check that out, thx
Loved the video, ordered a festool track after this, was on the edge tbh. However can you PLEASE for the love of EVERY headphone wearing user watching your videos, edit the volume or somthing when you turn on a saw, JESUS H F*** that was loud. Love the content, just some constructive criticism.
Keep the dust flying.
Normally I adjust the tool volume (Tiffany aka the editor writing here) but guess I didn’t go far enough on this one. Hope your ears are ok!!!!
its realy cheaper to just buy the festool foam rolls and put it on your dewalt track.
👍🏻🍻🍺🎉
Who would use a track saw loose on a table with NO clamps??? When you buy a 1000$ saw you get the 60$ clamps for it
Fail. Not sure why you would ever make a cut without using clamps. Routers work fine with DeWalt track. Not sure what you are talking about. You are surrounded by Dewalt tools and the only Festool i see is that track. But the weird part is that you totally failed to address the real advantage of the Festool track and that is in joining tracks together. It's as if you only make 4 foot cuts. Who only does that? I make 16' cuts. DeWalts only connect with one bar, whereas the Festool uses two, making it a stronger connection. But you should always check your joints with a straight edge anyway.
@@powskier I rarely use clamps for my track saws. I do use them when I’m routing. I’m only showing one track in the video but I do have many different sizes and more festool tools then anyone should own 😂 the new dewalt tracks have been improved since the first gen. They stick better and don’t require clamps.
@@hammerandhome With the cost of materials these days, I will not be lazy and take the extra time. It's worth it. Besides, with quick grip track clamps, it takes very little time anyway.
Also please don't say 'YOU HAVE TO' buy dewalt clamps. Thats an insult to most DIYers :P I made mine basically for free from what was laying around. Any old quick clamp can be modified to work with the track