It goes far faster if you follow the instructions and work one side to a bur and then move to the other side. This is how professional sharpeners work a blade. This will decrease the total amount of steel that you end up removing and your knives will last longer. You can purchase 1 x 18 belts from many places. The exact same belts that are used on knife makers 2 x 72 is available for the 1 x18. This includes even leather strops.
These work awesome! I've been using the original since it came out. One note I'd say on what TC did in the video is that there isn't a need to go to the guided cassette. You can sharpen to a blazing sharp mirror finish with the blade grinding attachment only.
It really wasn’t necessary to go back to the original attachment to finish your sharpening. Both attachments are made to do a complete job. Use one or the other, no need to go back and forth. The blade grinding attachment has wider belts and can handle larger blades.
I've used the original since it came out. As long as you use it correctly and follow the process, then you'll remove no more steel than with stones. Of course, there are a lot of factors that go into how much steel you remove, such as sharpening angle and damage to the blade, but that's going to be the same regardless of sharpening method.
@-joe-davidson They use the same grit system. They just work faster. A 600 grit stone and a 600 grit belt are the same. The difference is the rate at which they're capable of removing material, as your hand can't move as fast as the motor can turn. This is where paying attention to the instructions/recommended usage comes into play. Using the proper belt, speed, and technique will not remove more material than necessary. Almost every OEM and knife maker uses a powered sharpener for final edge bevels. No matter what system you use, lack of technique and knowledge will cause damage.
@@-joe-davidson No 120 grit is 120 grit weather it is a stone sandpaper or loose grit, YOU determine how much you allow that grit to take off, this machine or any powered machine just makes it way easier to take off , but that is also why it takes only mere seconds to get an edge back in order with this machine versus stones,, had he used stones on that badly damaged blade he would be there a week but it only took minutes instead, on a just normally dulled knife you would only need to use the stropping or ultra fine belt light pressure and just a minute or so to get back that razor edge, using this machine i have found that I actually take less material off and do a FAR better job sharpening that any manual system because you are not there for hours getting tired of just doing the crap so your focus stays better and the need to maintain proper angle is for a much shorter time frame,,, trust me this system has it all over any other PERIOD,,, you just need to learn it which isn't that big of a deal,,, you can get leather and cloth belts that you can go down to less than 1 micron using polishing paste or diamond grit suspension or as course as 80 grit for quickly reshaping or profiling a blade and everything in between and YOU have full controll or how much material you remove despite the process this one just makes things SOOOOO much quicker and easier.
@@BE_EDC What people don't seem to realize is the very act of sharpening a knife requires a certain amout of material be removed PERIOD,, it just doesn't happen any other way,, where people F**K up is by having systems that require a whole bunch more work to use than this system so they tend to dread the job and let thier knives get way duller than they should, and that's when larger amounts of material need to be removed to get the edge back,,, with this system it becomes almost real fun to use,, so all you need to do is keep a well maintained edge by just using one of the leather or cloth stropping belts available for it on a regular bassis, ( as soon as your knife looses that clean paper slicing edge just strop it for a minute or less and it's back to shaving sharp with only a microscoping amout of any "material" gone,,,, more like it just cleans up the edge.
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Thinking of buying it.
Love the content!
Thanks! We make it to be helpful and we have a blast doing it as well
It goes far faster if you follow the instructions and work one side to a bur and then move to the other side. This is how professional sharpeners work a blade. This will decrease the total amount of steel that you end up removing and your knives will last longer. You can purchase 1 x 18 belts from many places. The exact same belts that are used on knife makers 2 x 72 is available for the 1 x18. This includes even leather strops.
We always suggest reading the directions first, watch official videos from worksharp next, and only use TC as a reference guide lol
These work awesome! I've been using the original since it came out. One note I'd say on what TC did in the video is that there isn't a need to go to the guided cassette. You can sharpen to a blazing sharp mirror finish with the blade grinding attachment only.
Been wanting one of of these for awhile they are awesome
I like that Sharpener, Did a great job.
Mine works well
Good job on the video
It really wasn’t necessary to go back to the original attachment to finish your sharpening. Both attachments are made to do a complete job. Use one or the other, no need to go back and forth. The blade grinding attachment has wider belts and can handle larger blades.
Your doing good better than i would 😄👍
Do my original ken onion work sharpener belts fit this new edition?
Yes they will as long as it's the Ken Onion edition they are the same
Yes
Keep up the good work and vids... Be safe and take care, "God Bless", sincerely, Randy. 😇🙏👊
Does anyone use that flat platform thats on the away side as youre sharpening like a regular belt grinder?
You can use that to get straight edges instead of convex edges
Whoa. Very n8ce
My concern is that a belt sharpener will remove too much material over time.
I've used the original since it came out. As long as you use it correctly and follow the process, then you'll remove no more steel than with stones. Of course, there are a lot of factors that go into how much steel you remove, such as sharpening angle and damage to the blade, but that's going to be the same regardless of sharpening method.
@@BE_EDC
Belts are much more abrasive than stones.
@-joe-davidson They use the same grit system. They just work faster. A 600 grit stone and a 600 grit belt are the same. The difference is the rate at which they're capable of removing material, as your hand can't move as fast as the motor can turn. This is where paying attention to the instructions/recommended usage comes into play.
Using the proper belt, speed, and technique will not remove more material than necessary. Almost every OEM and knife maker uses a powered sharpener for final edge bevels. No matter what system you use, lack of technique and knowledge will cause damage.
@@-joe-davidson No 120 grit is 120 grit weather it is a stone sandpaper or loose grit, YOU determine how much you allow that grit to take off, this machine or any powered machine just makes it way easier to take off , but that is also why it takes only mere seconds to get an edge back in order with this machine versus stones,, had he used stones on that badly damaged blade he would be there a week but it only took minutes instead, on a just normally dulled knife you would only need to use the stropping or ultra fine belt light pressure and just a minute or so to get back that razor edge, using this machine i have found that I actually take less material off and do a FAR better job sharpening that any manual system because you are not there for hours getting tired of just doing the crap so your focus stays better and the need to maintain proper angle is for a much shorter time frame,,, trust me this system has it all over any other PERIOD,,, you just need to learn it which isn't that big of a deal,,, you can get leather and cloth belts that you can go down to less than 1 micron using polishing paste or diamond grit suspension or as course as 80 grit for quickly reshaping or profiling a blade and everything in between and YOU have full controll or how much material you remove despite the process this one just makes things SOOOOO much quicker and easier.
@@BE_EDC What people don't seem to realize is the very act of sharpening a knife requires a certain amout of material be removed PERIOD,, it just doesn't happen any other way,, where people F**K up is by having systems that require a whole bunch more work to use than this system so they tend to dread the job and let thier knives get way duller than they should, and that's when larger amounts of material need to be removed to get the edge back,,, with this system it becomes almost real fun to use,, so all you need to do is keep a well maintained edge by just using one of the leather or cloth stropping belts available for it on a regular bassis, ( as soon as your knife looses that clean paper slicing edge just strop it for a minute or less and it's back to shaving sharp with only a microscoping amout of any "material" gone,,,, more like it just cleans up the edge.
first