Thank you for doing this video. My 2012 has a dead battery pump 1. The error shows in the service mode. Also in the scan my tesla app it shows the pump at 0% and pump 2 at 100%. So basically same issue as you except pump on passenger side instead of drivers side. In service mode there is an option to run the coolant pumps to get air out. It runs for 20 minutes. That may have been in a later software update after you did yours.
I'm really glad to head they added that to the service menu on the "older cars", it had been there for quite some time on the Model 3/Y and I would guess the newer S/X's. I'm guessing they realized after they killed off the old stand-alone Toolbox software they really needed to do something. I'll add that to the description of the video to check service mode first before cycling the 12V. Otherwise, glad the video helped and your Model S is back to humming along on all pumps :)
This was a pretty easy fix. Bought part of of eBay, picked up a couple of welding vicegrips at harbor frieght that have a nice flat surface to squeeze the hoses so not much leaked out. Took 5 minutes to replace it. Spent more removing the frunk than anything else. Now each pump is at 23% while CHARGING instead of 0% and 100%.
I never had a code for battery pump however I could not supercharge. It will charge at home just fine. Took it into tesla and they said I need coolant pumps. Not having a code for that is weird. I scanned with tesla toolbox and never did any issue come up for coolant pump. Thanks for this video. I’m just wondering how they came to this conclusion with no codes showing.
That is odd, would be interesting for sure to know how that diagnosed that. I still stand by what I said in the video, I get they have redundancy, but I would prefer to get a (end user) visible alert if the car *knows* it has a cooling problem. In your case, maybe it was some edge case they never put software code around.
I have what I believe is the same issue however, I don’t have any codes for the pump. I only really hear the pumps when I charge above 70%. Do you think I should preemptively change the pumps?
I think I would look at pump duty cycle with Scan My Tesla before just swapping parts. Tesla does/has changed the cooling strategy on these cars and their batteries age, it very well could be normal. Not saying you dont have a possible issue, but it might be nothing and just needs more digging into.
Thanks for making it. Same pump failed on my ‘13 MS. Curious that the driver side pump is failing so consistently. Did you ever do a post Mortem on the old one?
I did actually, I should have made a video but you know how that can go. The motor was locked up almost solid, took a ton of force to get the impeller to rotate.
@@bajajoepoker Thats so crazy. I felt bad going on a rant about that in the video, but its been my experience owning multiple Tesla products now. They just cannot be bothered half the time to even produce a quote.
@@GimpyMR2 I was an early buyer in Jan '13. It was a different world then, they took such great care of their early adopters. But no more...Model 3 volume production simultaneously saved and killed TSLA.
I'm not sure which exact cable you need for the Model 3/Y, but on the S/X there is a diagnostic connector under the touchscreen. You use an adapter I linked below + standard OBDII dongle and then you can use apps like Scan My Tesla (and others). Like everything Tesla, they've used a few different connector types, so just look for the one most appropriate for your vehicle. www.amazon.com/dp/B09KQK9SF7
Assuming you have a legacy RWD, the pump under the windshield / near brake booster is #1 pump (and the only pump) for the power train. The pump replaced in this video is what they consider battery pump #1. There is a good diagram on the Tesla repair guides with this as well.
@@GimpyMR2 ok that’s great info. I have a failed battery coolant pump 1 code right now. Would that be one of the identical pumps underneath the tub or the one up by the reservoir?
I was but at a much reduced rate (50kW), thats when I first started digging into it. I thought it was the active aero broken causing it, but ended up being the pump. Not to mention I head the remaining pump almost constantly running in the garage.
@@GimpyMR2do you have any tips for my 2017 model s both coolant pumps were making a humming noise and one of them had an error in service mode so i replaced both with “refurbished ones” but is still making the same humming noises and now both coolant pumps have error codes and my mechanic said the 4 way actuator needed to be replaced.
thank you, your video helped me with the repair of my signature, my second pump works constantly because of which I have already incurred significant expenses 🫢
Thank you for doing this video. My 2012 has a dead battery pump 1. The error shows in the service mode. Also in the scan my tesla app it shows the pump at 0% and pump 2 at 100%. So basically same issue as you except pump on passenger side instead of drivers side.
In service mode there is an option to run the coolant pumps to get air out. It runs for 20 minutes. That may have been in a later software update after you did yours.
I'm really glad to head they added that to the service menu on the "older cars", it had been there for quite some time on the Model 3/Y and I would guess the newer S/X's. I'm guessing they realized after they killed off the old stand-alone Toolbox software they really needed to do something. I'll add that to the description of the video to check service mode first before cycling the 12V.
Otherwise, glad the video helped and your Model S is back to humming along on all pumps :)
This was a pretty easy fix. Bought part of of eBay, picked up a couple of welding vicegrips at harbor frieght that have a nice flat surface to squeeze the hoses so not much leaked out. Took 5 minutes to replace it. Spent more removing the frunk than anything else. Now each pump is at 23% while CHARGING instead of 0% and 100%.
I never had a code for battery pump however I could not supercharge. It will charge at home just fine. Took it into tesla and they said I need coolant pumps. Not having a code for that is weird. I scanned with tesla toolbox and never did any issue come up for coolant pump.
Thanks for this video. I’m just wondering how they came to this conclusion with no codes showing.
That is odd, would be interesting for sure to know how that diagnosed that.
I still stand by what I said in the video, I get they have redundancy, but I would prefer to get a (end user) visible alert if the car *knows* it has a cooling problem. In your case, maybe it was some edge case they never put software code around.
I have what I believe is the same issue however, I don’t have any codes for the pump. I only really hear the pumps when I charge above 70%. Do you think I should preemptively change the pumps?
I think I would look at pump duty cycle with Scan My Tesla before just swapping parts. Tesla does/has changed the cooling strategy on these cars and their batteries age, it very well could be normal. Not saying you dont have a possible issue, but it might be nothing and just needs more digging into.
Thanks for making it. Same pump failed on my ‘13 MS. Curious that the driver side pump is failing so consistently. Did you ever do a post Mortem on the old one?
I did actually, I should have made a video but you know how that can go. The motor was locked up almost solid, took a ton of force to get the impeller to rotate.
@@GimpyMR2 I’ll try my service center to get the new pump and will tear mine down too. Thanks again for your video.
They wouldn’t quote me the part (Knoxville) so I’ll be going your route.
@@bajajoepoker Thats so crazy. I felt bad going on a rant about that in the video, but its been my experience owning multiple Tesla products now. They just cannot be bothered half the time to even produce a quote.
@@GimpyMR2 I was an early buyer in Jan '13. It was a different world then, they took such great care of their early adopters. But no more...Model 3 volume production simultaneously saved and killed TSLA.
Anyone know how to configure a new pump that reads 127% on the scan my tesla tool? I will be getting toolbox.
Interesting
How u connect bus to tablet
I'm not sure which exact cable you need for the Model 3/Y, but on the S/X there is a diagnostic connector under the touchscreen. You use an adapter I linked below + standard OBDII dongle and then you can use apps like Scan My Tesla (and others). Like everything Tesla, they've used a few different connector types, so just look for the one most appropriate for your vehicle.
www.amazon.com/dp/B09KQK9SF7
Hey
Isn’t the pump up near the windshield pump #1?
Assuming you have a legacy RWD, the pump under the windshield / near brake booster is #1 pump (and the only pump) for the power train. The pump replaced in this video is what they consider battery pump #1. There is a good diagram on the Tesla repair guides with this as well.
@@GimpyMR2 ok that’s great info. I have a failed battery coolant pump 1 code right now.
Would that be one of the identical pumps underneath the tub or the one up by the reservoir?
Were you still able to supercharge?
I was but at a much reduced rate (50kW), thats when I first started digging into it. I thought it was the active aero broken causing it, but ended up being the pump. Not to mention I head the remaining pump almost constantly running in the garage.
@@GimpyMR2do you have any tips for my 2017 model s both coolant pumps were making a humming noise and one of them had an error in service mode so i replaced both with “refurbished ones” but is still making the same humming noises and now both coolant pumps have error codes and my mechanic said the 4 way actuator needed to be replaced.
What scan tool you use for tesla?
Scan My Tesla.
thank you, your video helped me with the repair of my signature, my second pump works constantly because of which I have already incurred significant expenses 🫢