Neat application of lube on the drill point. I've not found the Anchor lube yet but anxious to try that stuff. Good to see you increasing your equipment base. Better equipment eliminates "shade tree processes".
FYI, TH-cam has unsubscribed me from your channel a couple times in the past few months. Might want to let viewers know to check if they are still subscribed. Thanks for your great content.
I had to get rid of two channels when I subscribed. Every time I subscribed to something it would unsubscribe another channel so idk wtf the deal with that is.
I have a fork truck tip, when picking up items like the bucket tilt the forks forward until they are touching the ground. As you move under the item slowly lift the forks and they will normally slide under the piece you are trying to pick up.
Over the years I have found that a chewing tobacco can makes a pretty good tap, die and drill lube storage container. I just fill it lube of chose and dip the tool in it. Gluing a magnet to the can be really helpful.
Love the video's sir wish we had this in my area when growing up now need to do a career change after retiring from being a firefighter an watching y'all do stuff like this gives me ideas greetings from gustine CA
Great job like usual Greg I just built a complete dump trailer to use with my quad,from scrap metal obtained at our local dump,so I can feel your joy 😂😂
Its amazing what you come across at the scrap yard! Ive seen quite a few things that i thought needed to come back out of the place with me, but usually not worth trying to figure out where to store it. 😅😅👍🏻👌🏻🤔🦺🛠️🔧🔩
That boring machine is really quiet, I just remember some old video of you where you used that electric one that screamed like a electric planer... 👍👍👍
You can get a more accurate measurement by using measurement sticks. Two sticks put length wise in between your rods. The sticks are each about 3/4” the length of the gap and you simply spread them until each end contacts the rod and you mark where the end of one stick comes to on the other. Then you do the same to the other side and spread or bring in the rod until it’s the same. You can probably find a better description on the internet. They are commonly used to measure for square on things like drawer bottoms.
I’m an electronics guy. So that servo that connects to that manual ball screw when turned will generate an electrical signal that could be bad for the controller. Make sure when you adjust the hand wheel you either disconnect the shaft from the servo motor or your disconnect the control cable so you don’t get ‘back EMF’ and fry the control board. Just a bit of nerdy advice.
Do you ever use a tap in the cordless drill? The clutch setting is great and I find it easy to keep it straight. A ratchet applies sideways torque and even a T handle too.
Great content as always. Suggested on leveling the bars to each other, as a toolmaker I would suggest the use of a machinist level instead of the digital level. It will be much higher accuracy, especially once you get use to reading the bubble. You can see changes in the bubble that the digital level will never display. You may not need this level of accuracy but I figured I'd suggest it as you seem to be a person that enjoys continuously improving their quality of work.
@@OFW just curious have you ever checked the level you use. It's says it's accurate to .1 of a degree, which would be roughly .002 per foot. I'm wondering if it is truly that accurate, I've always been sceptical of digital measuring tools. Could slip feeler gauges under it to check it.
I really enjoy your videos, especially the SPower bore videos. Would like to know what a typical invoice/charge for a job like this or similar job would be. This line boring setup must be a huge money maker. Thanks for showing us how.
@OFW Thank you very much. That's good info. Have you ever been able to use the setup in a vertical position? i.e. gundgeon bearing housing/center pivot on an articulating tractor or loader?
Everything about taking the bushings and submerging them in liquid nitrogen to cool them off. Leave the bushings in the liquid nitrogen for about 10 minutes and they will contract and you can easily slide them in to the hole you just machined. Let the bushings warm up and they will appear as if you pressed them in with your hydraulic press. Food for thought my friend.
7:00 Not to be nitpicky but were you showing that 0.10 is essentially zero, or were you showing that the 0.10 was the same on both sides? Since you flipped the ends of the level as you walked around to the other side, it should have shown 0.10 and -0.10 right, if they were exactly the same pitch. Right?
There seems to be a lot of little details to assemble and disassemble the drive to the bearings. Would adding some sort of quick connection to the assembly reduce the accuracy?
Does the s-power unit have to go upright? I wonder if it would be easier to set up if the unit wasn’t top-heavy. I also wonder if the unit has enough torque to handle two rough cuts at the same time (if the bar were long enough).
Wondering on your parallel bar method; the level got reversed 180 degrees and still showed the .10 measurement but was the deviation reversed too? In other words by switching sides and flipping the level's direction was the difference between the bars null or .10 + .10??
Can anyone recommend a flux core welding glove? I'm burning through generic gloves real quick, & I can't find harbor freight's or any on ebay... Apologies for the rabbit trail Greg & thanks again for doing what you do
Friend, I'm sharing your videos in Brazil, but many don't understand English. If you want and can, can you activate the subtitles in Portuguese? Thank you and hugs.
Can you provide a website or phone number to buy a removal/installation tools to remove and replace bushings I ready have a hollow hydraulic piston. Thanks mobile welder Rene( Founder Welding Works) appreciate all your videos you show my respect to you and again thank you very much for
The cost of S-Power in China is $1900. The seller who offered to advertise this machine sells it for $7,500. In the USA, for 10k you can buy decent equipment, and not this pathetic semblance of a CLIMEX with a gearbox from a dough kneading machine
I understand where you’re coming from and where you’re trying to go with your explanation of the setup for line boring. The two shafts should be checked to be parallel. The problem is not particularly complex, but the explanation was not adequate. Teaching geometry is not among your many talents. Thankfully you do have others.
@@OFW - Neither am I. You started out fine, showing that you determined a reliable starting point: the shaft at the rear of the frame. That is the hardest part. It's at the measurements and adjustments from that line to the larger shaft that you seemed to lose interest. Try again.
He explained it just fine. He got the bars coplanar with the level and got them parallel with the tape measure. Then he centered the cutter bar in the worn bore by indicating off the outside surface. Understanding geometry is obviously not one of your talents.
@@AlwaysBored123 - You have decided you understood the explanation because you probably already understood the problem. Ask those who didn’t understand it before: how many are now blissfully enlightened?
What’s your point Mr. Zalman? Or are you just trying to share with the group that you know stuff too? Greg definitely knows how to line bore and I completely understood what he was saying.
This channel and Cutting Edge Engineering are the best 2 on you tube.
It's great whenever you show step by step, it's always a learning process! Keep up the videos, be safe!✌🏼💯👏
Neat application of lube on the drill point. I've not found the Anchor lube yet but anxious to try that stuff.
Good to see you increasing your equipment base. Better equipment eliminates "shade tree processes".
FYI, TH-cam has unsubscribed me from your channel a couple times in the past few months. Might want to let viewers know to check if they are still subscribed. Thanks for your great content.
That’s weird. I suspected that was going on.
I had to get rid of two channels when I subscribed. Every time I subscribed to something it would unsubscribe another channel so idk wtf the deal with that is.
I have a fork truck tip, when picking up items like the bucket tilt the forks forward until they are touching the ground. As you move under the item slowly lift the forks and they will normally slide under the piece you are trying to pick up.
I appreciate you showing this. I am sure there is an "ART" that comes with a lot of practise, to making sure these are centered.
Over the years I have found that a chewing tobacco can makes a pretty good tap, die and drill lube storage container. I just fill it lube of chose and dip the tool in it. Gluing a magnet to the can be really helpful.
Altoids tin works too.
Heard Warren with western truck give you a compliment a couple days ago on a video.
Me too also
Saturday go too!! Coffees on! Cheers!;-)!
Great video thanks for taking the time to make them.
nice that you always explain what you are doing!
Greg, really enjoy your videos and the various projects you take care of… take care my friend…
Love the alignment explanations, thanks!
Love watching the line boring great content thank you.
Great plan Greg, it sure turned out nice!!
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Great Job ! Very Professional as always ! 👍👍
Great tutorial have a wonderful day!.
Greg, you are the best, always love the content and learn something every time, Paul in Florida
This was another cool video, thanks.
Excellent content as usual brother, good to see your supporting swanson products.
Great video! Greg! I like how you explained stuff while doing the work! Thanks for sharing! 😊👌👍
Greg you do good work!
4 👍's up on fire welding thank you for sharing 🤗
Thank you for the kind words to @snowballengineering! You, he, CEE, ICweld, Western Truck and Tractor, PNW Hillbilly are my most favorite YT channels!
Love the video's sir wish we had this in my area when growing up now need to do a career change after retiring from being a firefighter an watching y'all do stuff like this gives me ideas greetings from gustine CA
Great job like usual Greg
I just built a complete dump trailer to use with my quad,from scrap metal obtained at our local dump,so I can feel your joy 😂😂
I had trouble with my set screws moving my tool also . I faced the points flat and that helped out a lot
G'day mate, I went the other way, I used set screws with the hard ball end. Single point of contact they work well for me. cheers.
Awesome video. Thank you
Its amazing what you come across at the scrap yard! Ive seen quite a few things that i thought needed to come back out of the place with me, but usually not worth trying to figure out where to store it. 😅😅👍🏻👌🏻🤔🦺🛠️🔧🔩
I like you using s power fab video , thank you again showing true artist at work ,🥾🍀
That boring machine is really quiet, I just remember some old video of you where you used that electric one that screamed like a electric planer...
👍👍👍
Классная система. Мечта расточника.
You can get a more accurate measurement by using measurement sticks. Two sticks put length wise in between your rods. The sticks are each about 3/4” the length of the gap and you simply spread them until each end contacts the rod and you mark where the end of one stick comes to on the other. Then you do the same to the other side and spread or bring in the rod until it’s the same. You can probably find a better description on the internet. They are commonly used to measure for square on things like drawer bottoms.
Another great repair. 👍👍@7:36 Digipas level for more accuracy if needed
I’m an electronics guy. So that servo that connects to that manual ball screw when turned will generate an electrical signal that could be bad for the controller. Make sure when you adjust the hand wheel you either disconnect the shaft from the servo motor or your disconnect the control cable so you don’t get ‘back EMF’ and fry the control board. Just a bit of nerdy advice.
Nicely done Sir.
No notification so I'm a day later , brilliant work as always. Snowball Engineering mentioned you today on his channel, he's a big fan also
Nice Job, Thanks.
Awesome 👍
Just found your channel and subbed. 👍
Pretty nice unit
Put some windguard on your microphone. People asking how you get it parallel probably shouldn't be doing line boring. Great job as usual💪💪💪💪
S power is so 🤫
Nice job 👏
I think you fixed a flaw from the manufacturer for good for your customer. The best part is your ability to grease it with ease.
Anger Lube is so good, it prevents broken tap anger.
Do you ever use a tap in the cordless drill? The clutch setting is great and I find it easy to keep it straight. A ratchet applies sideways torque and even a T handle too.
I do that as well.
Cool cool cool
Great content as always. Suggested on leveling the bars to each other, as a toolmaker I would suggest the use of a machinist level instead of the digital level. It will be much higher accuracy, especially once you get use to reading the bubble. You can see changes in the bubble that the digital level will never display. You may not need this level of accuracy but I figured I'd suggest it as you seem to be a person that enjoys continuously improving their quality of work.
I was considering using one but I don’t think it needs to be that accurate.
@@OFW just curious have you ever checked the level you use. It's says it's accurate to .1 of a degree, which would be roughly .002 per foot. I'm wondering if it is truly that accurate, I've always been sceptical of digital measuring tools. Could slip feeler gauges under it to check it.
As a master of everything i can say you have to use bolts to get it rigth 🕵🏽♂️ cant you see 🗣
I don’t know what you are trying to say.
Fun to watch and learn. Great job explaining the setup.
Question: How close in alignment would a a bore setup like that be off the factory floor?
Well we would hope it would be near perfect. But I have seen some that are 1/4” or so off.
I really enjoy your videos, especially the SPower bore videos. Would like to know what a typical invoice/charge for a job like this or similar job would be. This line boring setup must be a huge money maker. Thanks for showing us how.
$200 a hour. 6 hours. $1,400 for CAT bushings.
@OFW Thank you very much. That's good info.
Have you ever been able to use the setup in a vertical position? i.e. gundgeon bearing housing/center pivot on an articulating tractor or loader?
New shopchairs!! Nice! How long will it stay white? Or when will it become "off-white"? ;)
Always enjoy watching your videos and learning different points of view. Curious How much does a job like this run in your area?
I charge $200 a hour. This took about 6 hours.
Are the bores of the centering cones concentric with the cone? Or are they eccentric so you can twist them to dial in the shaft location?
They are centered.
Ni ce job!
Just for a double check I run a laser level parallel and Perpendicular to the bars
👍👍
Great video! Thank you for explaining your thought process along the way. How long did the job take ? Be Safe!
About 6 hours
Shop is looking nice and clean. Can you use a 61 year old apprentice LOL. I am a good pipe welder.
Tell a friend of the S power surfacing boring machine how it works in practice and can you recommend the quality
please show the drill bit cooler
Please show the drill bit cooler.
Bon Boulo😆😆👍👍
Everything about taking the bushings and submerging them in liquid nitrogen to cool them off. Leave the bushings in the liquid nitrogen for about 10 minutes and they will contract and you can easily slide them in to the hole you just machined. Let the bushings warm up and they will appear as if you pressed them in with your hydraulic press. Food for thought my friend.
I know all about liquid nitrogen. I don’t do it enough to justify having it yet.
Cost to have on hand also the sneaky stuff will just disappear over time.
once the liquid nitrogen stops boiling that's the final size reached it depends on the amount of material in the bush and the temperature of it
7:00 Not to be nitpicky but were you showing that 0.10 is essentially zero, or were you showing that the 0.10 was the same on both sides? Since you flipped the ends of the level as you walked around to the other side, it should have shown 0.10 and -0.10 right, if they were exactly the same pitch. Right?
I’m showing it was .10 on both sides.
there should be a slotted plate that gets welded on and bolted instead of welding direct onto the bearing plate
There seems to be a lot of little details to assemble and disassemble the drive to the bearings. Would adding some sort of quick connection to the assembly reduce the accuracy?
If done correctly it should be fine. I am working on designing some different bearing mounts.
Do you stamp a date , bushing and seal part number on the top of the housing ends for the future techs. Since its modified
I do not. The bushings all have part numbers stamped on the edges. Usually you can still read them after years of abuse.
B7 refinery and pipeline grade
I think the way you used your level that it's showing you that you're off by .20 degrees no biggie
Are you happy with the "S power" machine? Would you get another one?
So far yes, I would get another one if the need arises.
Does the s-power unit have to go upright? I wonder if it would be easier to set up if the unit wasn’t top-heavy. I also wonder if the unit has enough torque to handle two rough cuts at the same time (if the bar were long enough).
no you can mount them anyway you want
You can mount it any way you want. Some jobs might restrict the way it gets mounted. It definitely has enough torque to run two cutters.
Wondering on your parallel bar method; the level got reversed 180 degrees and still showed the .10 measurement but was the deviation reversed too? In other words by switching sides and flipping the level's direction was the difference between the bars null or .10 + .10??
It was .10 the same way
What is Portuguese for “bringing the ugga duggas”?
cold adult beverage for my friend.......
Can anyone recommend a flux core welding glove? I'm burning through generic gloves real quick, & I can't find harbor freight's or any on ebay... Apologies for the rabbit trail Greg & thanks again for doing what you do
I usually buy the cheap ones. The expensive ones don’t seem to last any longer.
Редуктор расточной установки червячный, глабоидная червячная пара или обычный червячный?
I am not sure. Maybe S power can answer that
Friend, I'm sharing your videos in Brazil, but many don't understand English. If you want and can, can you activate the subtitles in Portuguese? Thank you and hugs.
Auto translation in Portuguese is there. Check if it is good enough.
@@frank-t6857 Very good. Tank's
What brand of drill bits are you using
Lawson cryo bits. They work very well.
Does your S Power motor get really hot like 150° F during boring job?
Yes! I was actually curious about that.
What is your press fit tolerance? eg. .001,.002?
About.004
I'm surprised you don't have a chip pan or metal 5 gallon bucket under your work to catch a majority of those that fall.
I have a kid that cleans. Job security for him.
is it made in the usa
The line boring unit? No. China
Climax bar lol
Shouldn’t the level be facing the same way when checking level? Left side of the level pointing in the same direction each time.
Or does a digital level compensate for that?
Doesn’t matter as long as the level is reading correctly.
Always Bad A..!!!
How big is your workshop?
30x40
🤒🧐🤓💥👌🤝🤝
Can you provide a website or phone number to buy a removal/installation tools to remove and replace bushings I ready have a hollow hydraulic piston. Thanks mobile welder Rene(
Founder Welding Works) appreciate all your videos you show my respect to you and again thank you very much for
I don’t know anywhere. But I am thinking about making kits and selling them. I could put together a kit for you.
Can you provide a rough estimate. If the price is right absolutely let me know and thank you
That bucket does not weigh 15000 lbs
Okay
So how much dose it weigh?
The cost of S-Power in China is $1900. The seller who offered to advertise this machine sells it for $7,500. In the USA, for 10k you can buy decent equipment, and not this pathetic semblance of a CLIMEX with a gearbox from a dough kneading machine
Except you're .20 off on the level because you didn't spin it around when moving to the bar on the other side. It should of read -.10
Be careful with those skates. Kurtis had some nightmare experiences with those, and they look the same
I understand where you’re coming from and where you’re trying to go with your explanation of the setup for line boring. The two shafts should be checked to be parallel. The problem is not particularly complex, but the explanation was not adequate.
Teaching geometry is not among your many talents. Thankfully you do have others.
I am definitely not a teacher.
@@OFW - Neither am I.
You started out fine, showing that you determined a reliable starting point: the shaft at the rear of the frame. That is the hardest part. It's at the measurements and adjustments from that line to the larger shaft that you seemed to lose interest. Try again.
He explained it just fine. He got the bars coplanar with the level and got them parallel with the tape measure. Then he centered the cutter bar in the worn bore by indicating off the outside surface. Understanding geometry is obviously not one of your talents.
@@AlwaysBored123 - You have decided you understood the explanation because you probably already understood the problem. Ask those who didn’t understand it before: how many are now blissfully enlightened?
What’s your point Mr. Zalman? Or are you just trying to share with the group that you know stuff too? Greg definitely knows how to line bore and I completely understood what he was saying.
How come you don't use liquid nitrogen?
I wouldn’t use it enough to justify the hassle of having it.