Glad I don’t have to worry about that with my P5… The sheaves on my previous Kawasaki Prairies looked sturdier than those. Kawasaki specified using only a moly grease on them.
Can you recommend a aftermarket and more durable cup and rollers. Also what grease would you put back in there that’s better than factory. Great video keep em coming. Thanks. 😎
Use the Rmax upgraded spring cup, they interchange. Use UTV Enginnering HV weights, slippery washers, Tinkseal for grease and Cam plate sliders. The upgraded cup and slippery washers with Tinkseal will prevent this.
Yamaha realized there was problem with clutch at about 4500 mile dealer told me on my 4500 mi service that needed to check clutch it was bad. Yamaha cover all of it about you were doing own service you would not know about the problem. They used clutch from 700 in first wolverine and there not holding up. That what I was told.
They told you wrong. Both sheaves in the X model were beefed up over what the 700 had. The 700 had the same CVT as the grizzly and Kodiak four wheeler. Even though the 850 X model was beefed up the secondary was under designed, in that it only has 4 guide pins and grooves. With only 4 they are under to much stress when the grease isn’t fresh and starts getting tacky. The issue is at the secondary with the guide pins, grooves and the spring cup that goes over them. On the Rmax they upgraded that to 6 pins and grooves to help reduce the shared load on each pin and then upgraded the spring cup with a rubber coating. The coating is in contact with the spring so it forces the cup to always be twisting to a different spot continuously and the guides pins won’t start wearing into the cup and destroy it as seen in this video. You X model owners can just buy the Rmax cup and use it. They fit both models. Buy your primary weights from UTV ENGINEERING. They will last many thousands of miles with out flat spotting like stock weights. Forget the crap ultamatic grease from Yamaha and buy Tinkseal also from UTV ENGINEERING. It won’t dry out and even if it did it will leave the surface of the metal slick and galling won’t begin. Use it in the primary as well, even the roller channels. Also buy slippery washers from UTV Engineering for the secondary. They reduce friction and help with sheave function, especially back shifting, and they make and sell much better cam plate sliders for the primary as well. Recommend service interval due to the secondary issue is 1600 miles from Yamaha. With Tinkseal service has been tested to 3000 miles with everything looking perfect upon disassembly. For more education on service of your sheaves, go to the Wolverine forum. The how to vids are endless!
Cleaning and re-greasing. The critical part is getting new grease on everything. As you can see by the sheave I showed there was zero grease remaining on the sliding pins. I didn’t show it but the grease in the primary was chunky as well. Don’t matter how you drive or how hard or easy you are on the machine, the grease will not last and if not replaced cause all kinds of havoc as I showed with this one.
Every 1600 miles if using Yamalube ultramatic grease and components. With aftermarket parts and Tinkseal it can go a little longer. Get all your valuable information on parts grease, how to vids at Yamaha Wolverine forum!
Just voltage drops that causes your clutches to slip and fries everything causing you to have to spend several thousand for a complete trans rebuild in stead of several hundred like for this Yamaha’s sheaves and belt😉 😂😂😂 Though I do believe Honda has most of those issues taken care of at this point😁
Hahahah, these are the stock sheaves that failed. The Hunterworks sheave isn’t installed yet. Besides I’ve tested both and both are pretty much equal as far as performance goes and there was very little difference between the two beside the kind of roller weights that were used.
Thank you for sharing
🏆🤗🙏🇺🇲⭐
Glad I don’t have to worry about that with my P5… The sheaves on my previous Kawasaki Prairies looked sturdier than those. Kawasaki specified using only a moly grease on them.
The grease that comes in them from the factory is junk. Once tink seal goes in the wear diminishes significantly.
How about an updated service video Jason!
Same thing I had to do on my X4
Can you recommend a aftermarket and more durable cup and rollers. Also what grease would you put back in there that’s better than factory. Great video keep em coming. Thanks. 😎
Use the Rmax upgraded spring cup, they interchange.
Use UTV Enginnering HV weights, slippery washers, Tinkseal for grease and Cam plate sliders.
The upgraded cup and slippery washers with Tinkseal will prevent this.
@@westernslopermax216 Appreciate the info. Thanks
Yamaha realized there was problem with clutch at about 4500 mile dealer told me on my 4500 mi service that needed to check clutch it was bad. Yamaha cover all of it about you were doing own service you would not know about the problem. They used clutch from 700 in first wolverine and there not holding up. That what I was told.
They told you wrong. Both sheaves in the X model were beefed up over what the 700 had. The 700 had the same CVT as the grizzly and Kodiak four wheeler.
Even though the 850 X model was beefed up the secondary was under designed, in that it only has 4 guide pins and grooves. With only 4 they are under to much stress when the grease isn’t fresh and starts getting tacky. The issue is at the secondary with the guide pins, grooves and the spring cup that goes over them. On the Rmax they upgraded that to 6 pins and grooves to help reduce the shared load on each pin and then upgraded the spring cup with a rubber coating. The coating is in contact with the spring so it forces the cup to always be twisting to a different spot continuously and the guides pins won’t start wearing into the cup and destroy it as seen in this video.
You X model owners can just buy the Rmax cup and use it. They fit both models.
Buy your primary weights from UTV ENGINEERING. They will last many thousands of miles with out flat spotting like stock weights.
Forget the crap ultamatic grease from Yamaha and buy Tinkseal also from UTV ENGINEERING. It won’t dry out and even if it did it will
leave the surface of the metal slick and galling won’t begin. Use it in the primary as well, even the roller channels.
Also buy slippery washers from UTV Engineering for the secondary. They reduce friction and help with sheave function, especially back shifting, and they make and sell much better cam plate sliders for the primary as well.
Recommend service interval due to the secondary issue is 1600 miles from Yamaha. With Tinkseal service has been tested to 3000 miles with everything looking perfect upon disassembly.
For more education on service of your sheaves, go to the Wolverine forum. The how to vids are endless!
any videos on the rspec 708 cvt?
What does servicing the sheaves look like? What would you recommend?
Cleaning and re-greasing. The critical part is getting new grease on everything. As you can see by the sheave I showed there was zero grease remaining on the sliding pins. I didn’t show it but the grease in the primary was chunky as well. Don’t matter how you drive or how hard or easy you are on the machine, the grease will not last and if not replaced cause all kinds of havoc as I showed with this one.
I’m new to these… how often do you need to pull it apart for service?
Every 1600 miles if using Yamalube ultramatic grease and components.
With aftermarket parts and Tinkseal it can go a little longer.
Get all your valuable information on parts grease, how to vids at Yamaha Wolverine forum!
👍🇨🇦
Or you could buy a Honda and drive a real transmission. You never have to worry about belts.
Just voltage drops that causes your clutches to slip and fries everything causing you to have to spend several thousand for a complete trans rebuild in stead of several hundred like for this Yamaha’s sheaves and belt😉
😂😂😂
Though I do believe Honda has most of those issues taken care of at this point😁
Fix it right. Get that junk Hunter works out of there and put in the superior JBS sheave.
Hahahah, these are the stock sheaves that failed. The Hunterworks sheave isn’t installed yet. Besides I’ve tested both and both are pretty much equal as far as performance goes and there was very little difference between the two beside the kind of roller weights that were used.
@@AppalachianMountainRiders Todd is a lying thief.
The problem has nothing to do with the primary!