@@hpa101 Hi Taz - taking it apart this week but judging by the metal flakes in the oil, I'd guess bottom-end bearings. Could a bearing failure like that ever be blamed on being 25 years old with a questionable history of oil changes?
You could blame just about anything you want on dodgy historied, 25 year old high mileage engine to be fair! There is always a bit of luck involved in such cases. Some people seem to get all the good luck and are seemingly able to run 1000hp builds on used vegetable oil and twist taped wiring forever, then there is the rest of us 😄 - Taz
@@pauldownsyuen8493 25 years old is a fair judgment, but it's also good to be aware that bearings often fail for a reason, and some problems tend to stack up. Oil run too long too many times can damage silicone gaskets, clumps from which clog oil pump pickups, for instance. I'm sure you're well past that stage at this point, but always a good idea if your bearings seized to check for problems that may have lead to starvation. Sudden, catastrophic failures can happen (especially on heavily modified engines) but more often on lightly modified engines there's been an underlying problem building up. The reason, to be honest, that this is so fresh in my mind is that I recently had my lima 2.3 spin a bearing and I'm kicking myself because I knew oil pickup problems are an established fact on the platform and my truck has an oil pressure switch, rather than a fully-functional oil pressure gauge. I revved it near redline fairly often trying to get up to speed with an underpowered engine, knowing all this. Obviously my issue was ultimately self-inflicted but I'm more pointing at underlying problems that can kill bearings and how saying that my truck is 25 years old would be accurate enough but there's likely a more specific cause. Oil pressure might not be a significant concern on your engine, especially if you have a gauge you've been keeping an eye on and it goes up when it should go up, etc... but if you're reusing the block, worthwhile to check and clean all the oil passages and everything. Anyway, I know this was nine months ago and I'm sure you've done your rebuilding by now, I just like to remind people that age is more a useful thing to keep in mind to point in the right direction than an actual diagnosis.
Love the info. I did a relatively weird build on a once popular engine. Just built a way that hadn't really been done. A 6g72 all-motor build. I had planned on upping the rpm on mine so i went with upgraded rods BC h-beams, 272 cams and supporting mods and +1mm valve and brass valve guides with ported heads. Overall the build is 272 cams, 12.5:1 ross pistons, billet oil pump gears, aluminum flywheel,6g75 ls intake adapter,holley ls intake hat. Host of other mods as well. Engine seems to running fine but REALLY running into the limits of my re-flashable ecu. Between it not being able to see the wideband,unable to run e-85, And some other electrical issues (TPS issue coming from the GM tps on the 95mm LS tb). Real trial and error build imo.
Most people make a lot of mistakes with matching camshafts and rpm range. Or making intake ports too oversized and killing the intake velocity on a naturally aspirated application. Carroll Smith summed it up in his book "Race to Win" he said "Horsepower sells engines but torque wins races".
I went with Callie’s 4330 enforcer rods for my build, with coated bushings, and upgraded 3.5 rod bolts! Crazy rod! And going along with forged custom spec traum pistons. Piper vct cams, dual injection.. titanium retainers and beehive springs. oem forged ford crankshaft.
The worst engine ive heard of to keep running on the track is the 1600cc Toyota engine used in Swift -Formula Atlantic's .......they needed a set of big end bearings EVERY session on the track. They had them screwed out to 11,000+ rpm and took constant maintenance.
Do you guys have a good video on choosing camshafts, wanting a good cam for boost in a 4l sohc falcon. Im liking the 2231514 camshaft it has a 112 degree lobe centre stock, crow recommended the same cam with a 115 degree lobe centre unsure what that difference would equate to and whether you could use the 112 cam
Hi i got a volvo 245dl station wagon 245dl 1983 need to get parts to do a overall fixing service . Just need to know what parts are more important to get.
What’s your take on vw 1.8t and rifle drilled rods? Vw does it from factory but not really anyone else. Adds about $100 to the cost of rods and some aftermarket suppliers off it while others don’t.
Quite 😎 Different engine have different strengths and weaknesses, before doing any tuning or modifying one really needs to learn what they are, and what one needs to do to remedy those weaknesses that will be affected by the desired power and/or torque increase. In practice, there may be different points where one needs to upgrade, but budget limitations may not allow them all to be done at once. So having a firm final level to reach and making sure that the required parts are upgraded to meet that that eventual figure. For example, one may seriously over-spec' a bottom end rebuild and head gasket seal for the current power/torque level, knowing that the rest of the upgrades will be bolt-ons
A question about oil squirters, I am all for them and have them in my 7MGTE while a friend does not have them in a similar engine and I have noticed my oil gets considerably hotter when I am in the rpm range that the squirters open (120 celcius comes up pretty fast with sustained boost). Is this a common thing for oil squirters to add a lot of heat to the oil, or is there something else in my engine heating the oil up so much? I have a good custom oil cooler setup so temps are controllable and I get 85psi at 6500rpm with hot oil so its not like they are dumping all the oil onto the pistons but I have always wondered if the rapid temperature rise in the oil was a result of the squirters opening or general full throttle extra heat (coolant always stable at 88)
One of the point of the squirters, like piston squirters, is to help cool hot parts - and obviously lubricate where there is friction thus heat. So in that sense it makes sense that the oil runs hotter.
As Aero' said, you're cooling the piston by transferring heat (thermal energy) from the piston underside to the oil - not sure why you didn't get that?
Believe me I know that the oil will get hotter from cooling the pistons but I have never heard anything about just how much heat it puts into the oil which is why I am concerned at the amount of heat being dumped into my oil. It will go from 90-120 celcius from one 2-3-4 pull which seems pretty crazy as its nearly 6L capacity. If I ring out 5th gear after that it will get to over 130 celcius before the coil cooler starts controlling it
"copper does a horrible job of sealing oil and water " ok so why use it ? why not something a bit softer ? are you relaying on it to back up the seal ring from moving ?
The front has had some 'mild' modifications for sure haha The class of racing you are doing determines how far you can go modification wise, for some this would be too much, for others you can go much further - Taz.
![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Ruk6GLJgbA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](/img/tr.png)
![How To Balance Your Pistons And Connecting Rods [#TECHTALK]](/img/n.gif)
This was pure destiny - my RB26 just seized on the dyno last week. Bittersweet destiny.
Bittersweet for sure man. Did you manage to do a failure analysis yet to find the cause? - Taz.
@@hpa101 Hi Taz - taking it apart this week but judging by the metal flakes in the oil, I'd guess bottom-end bearings.
Could a bearing failure like that ever be blamed on being 25 years old with a questionable history of oil changes?
You could blame just about anything you want on dodgy historied, 25 year old high mileage engine to be fair! There is always a bit of luck involved in such cases.
Some people seem to get all the good luck and are seemingly able to run 1000hp builds on used vegetable oil and twist taped wiring forever, then there is the rest of us 😄 - Taz
@@pauldownsyuen8493 25 years old is a fair judgment, but it's also good to be aware that bearings often fail for a reason, and some problems tend to stack up. Oil run too long too many times can damage silicone gaskets, clumps from which clog oil pump pickups, for instance. I'm sure you're well past that stage at this point, but always a good idea if your bearings seized to check for problems that may have lead to starvation. Sudden, catastrophic failures can happen (especially on heavily modified engines) but more often on lightly modified engines there's been an underlying problem building up.
The reason, to be honest, that this is so fresh in my mind is that I recently had my lima 2.3 spin a bearing and I'm kicking myself because I knew oil pickup problems are an established fact on the platform and my truck has an oil pressure switch, rather than a fully-functional oil pressure gauge. I revved it near redline fairly often trying to get up to speed with an underpowered engine, knowing all this. Obviously my issue was ultimately self-inflicted but I'm more pointing at underlying problems that can kill bearings and how saying that my truck is 25 years old would be accurate enough but there's likely a more specific cause.
Oil pressure might not be a significant concern on your engine, especially if you have a gauge you've been keeping an eye on and it goes up when it should go up, etc... but if you're reusing the block, worthwhile to check and clean all the oil passages and everything.
Anyway, I know this was nine months ago and I'm sure you've done your rebuilding by now, I just like to remind people that age is more a useful thing to keep in mind to point in the right direction than an actual diagnosis.
Love the info. I did a relatively weird build on a once popular engine. Just built a way that hadn't really been done. A 6g72 all-motor build. I had planned on upping the rpm on mine so i went with upgraded rods BC h-beams, 272 cams and supporting mods and +1mm valve and brass valve guides with ported heads. Overall the build is 272 cams, 12.5:1 ross pistons, billet oil pump gears, aluminum flywheel,6g75 ls intake adapter,holley ls intake hat. Host of other mods as well. Engine seems to running fine but REALLY running into the limits of my re-flashable ecu. Between it not being able to see the wideband,unable to run e-85, And some other electrical issues (TPS issue coming from the GM tps on the 95mm LS tb). Real trial and error build imo.
Hey I know you :3 I'm a 3000gt owner as well and I want to do the same, as much NA as possible and high revs
@@casinc.2138 its expensive for sure lol
Most people make a lot of mistakes with matching camshafts and rpm range. Or making intake ports too oversized and killing the intake velocity on a naturally aspirated application. Carroll Smith summed it up in his book "Race to Win" he said "Horsepower sells engines but torque wins races".
I went with Callie’s 4330 enforcer rods for my build, with coated bushings, and upgraded 3.5 rod bolts! Crazy rod! And going along with forged custom spec traum pistons. Piper vct cams, dual injection.. titanium retainers and beehive springs. oem forged ford crankshaft.
The worst engine ive heard of to keep running on the track is the 1600cc Toyota engine used in Swift -Formula Atlantic's .......they needed a set of big end bearings EVERY session on the track. They had them screwed out to 11,000+ rpm and took constant maintenance.
I like the information HPA always offer. Always point you in the direction of any type of build your working on. Great content 👍😊👏☝️🤟🤜🤛💨💯👋🆒🤙🤞
Great episode plenty of good information. Do you have a episode that goes in depth on the RB25DET ?
Do you guys have a good video on choosing camshafts, wanting a good cam for boost in a 4l sohc falcon. Im liking the 2231514 camshaft it has a 112 degree lobe centre stock, crow recommended the same cam with a 115 degree lobe centre unsure what that difference would equate to and whether you could use the 112 cam
Hi i got a volvo 245dl station wagon 245dl 1983 need to get parts to do a overall fixing service . Just need to know what parts are more important to get.
Correction At 16:50 the 4g64 block stock bore size is actally 86.5mm, and 87mm bore would be the next size up from stock bore size.
you mentioned a Loctite product to use on copper head gaskets, is that Loctite 30526, spray? thanks. Oh, and great video!
What’s your take on vw 1.8t and rifle drilled rods? Vw does it from factory but not really anyone else. Adds about $100 to the cost of rods and some aftermarket suppliers off it while others don’t.
Excellent. A lot of good information here.
Glad you enjoyed it =) - Taz.
Quite 😎
Different engine have different strengths and weaknesses, before doing any tuning or modifying one really needs to learn what they are, and what one needs to do to remedy those weaknesses that will be affected by the desired power and/or torque increase.
In practice, there may be different points where one needs to upgrade, but budget limitations may not allow them all to be done at once. So having a firm final level to reach and making sure that the required parts are upgraded to meet that that eventual figure. For example, one may seriously over-spec' a bottom end rebuild and head gasket seal for the current power/torque level, knowing that the rest of the upgrades will be bolt-ons
A question about oil squirters, I am all for them and have them in my 7MGTE while a friend does not have them in a similar engine and I have noticed my oil gets considerably hotter when I am in the rpm range that the squirters open (120 celcius comes up pretty fast with sustained boost). Is this a common thing for oil squirters to add a lot of heat to the oil, or is there something else in my engine heating the oil up so much? I have a good custom oil cooler setup so temps are controllable and I get 85psi at 6500rpm with hot oil so its not like they are dumping all the oil onto the pistons but I have always wondered if the rapid temperature rise in the oil was a result of the squirters opening or general full throttle extra heat (coolant always stable at 88)
One of the point of the squirters, like piston squirters, is to help cool hot parts - and obviously lubricate where there is friction thus heat. So in that sense it makes sense that the oil runs hotter.
As Aero' said, you're cooling the piston by transferring heat (thermal energy) from the piston underside to the oil - not sure why you didn't get that?
Believe me I know that the oil will get hotter from cooling the pistons but I have never heard anything about just how much heat it puts into the oil which is why I am concerned at the amount of heat being dumped into my oil. It will go from 90-120 celcius from one 2-3-4 pull which seems pretty crazy as its nearly 6L capacity. If I ring out 5th gear after that it will get to over 130 celcius before the coil cooler starts controlling it
Envisage... Word of the day.
Sponsored by the numbers 4, 6 and 3 🤓 - Taz.
"copper does a horrible job of sealing oil and water " ok so why use it ? why not something a bit softer ? are you relaying on it to back up the seal ring from moving ?
how about Vulcan cut ring HG CR330038
Massive amount of information here, great information!
How much if that Evo chassis is Evo aha
The front has had some 'mild' modifications for sure haha
The class of racing you are doing determines how far you can go modification wise, for some this would be too much, for others you can go much further - Taz.
Hey! Wheres the TH-cam Accent button? 😂and im from Nawlins speaking Yak😂😂
haha how good would that option be! Imagine the ability to set all of TH-cam to a Kiwi accent like ours on your mates phone 😂 - Taz.
🤣🤣🤣 hiding under the rock
From my research cast block is better.
For some applications it will be for sure 😎 - Taz.
More info that NASCAR Tech....