aloha albert. thank you for this great video. i think its one of your best. i was going to suggest you make a video on tips to eliminate cross-overs. one thing i do during my prestringing inspections looking for racquet wear, damage and cracks, i look at the old strings and how they seat parallel along the sides. often i will just take a quick photo. new frames never strung can be tricky. i pre-weave with some scrap strings with two different colors and plan ahead. i know providing quality workmanship for customers is very important, but many tennis players wouldnt even notice these defects. would a misweave or a crossover really affect a racquets performance or break any tennis rules about uniform patterns?
Aloha Coach Dudley, Thanks for the kind words. I never really know which videos will attract more attention, but so far it is outperforming the views of my previous 10 videos! A misweave on the outside of the sweetspot area of the string bed should not affect the performance of the racquet. It appears that it wouldn't violate any rules since the strings are on one plane. Here is what I found in the Friend at Court rule book. Case 2: Is the stringing pattern of a racket considered to be generally uniform and flat if the strings are on more than one plane? Decision: No. A crossover can cause the string to break prematurely, especially if it is located at the top shoulders of the head. This is where natural wear occurs and if the crossover string is protruding past the bumper guard, it will be exposed to this wear. 🤙
I made an error of stringing a few crosses at a higher tension than the rest of the cross strings. That happened because I forgot to adjust the tension after I tied the knot. There were 3 -4 rows of crosses strung at 4lbs more. Is that a mistake that needs to be fixed by redoing the racquet ? I enjoy your videos very much. Thanks for sharing your professional knowledge❤
Aloha Sue, Yes, you're not alone; that is a common mistake. Here are your options in order of preference. #1 - If you have more than enough string length to install all of your crosses without that "pre-stretched" string section, then you could cut off that section and proceed as normal. #2 - If you're unsure if you'll have more than enough string, start your crosses with the opposite end of the string (the non-pre-stretched end). However, use as little string as possible when starting your crosses. In other words, either allow just enough string on the outside and use a starting clamp bridge to tension or use a starting knot. If you end up installing part of the pre-stretched string section when you reach the bottom, in my opinion, it's not as crucial compared to having it installed at the top. Players are not supposed to hit there anyway! 🤣
Could you make a video or a comment on how to avoid bending or cracking frames? I'm using a drop weight and the mounting system is sub par. Sometimes I notice a lot of movement in the racquet frame which makes me uneasy how long it can withstand that stress.
Aloha, I wish I could say I've had more experience with a drop-weight machine to create such a video. Since you mentioned your machine mounting system is sub-par, that may be the issue. Also, if your machine is a tabletop model and not a standup model, it may be causing it to be less stable. This would be my two cents short of creating a video. 🤙
To tighten the tie off knots I've been using the pull down and rock forward method and I've noticed that you simply pull up on the first loop to remove slack. Do you think there is an appreciable difference in the tension of the last main or cross strings between the two methods?....To detect mis-weaves I use the beginner trick of pushing the "one ahead" string down against the string to be tensioned. Not only does this show correct weaves but the one ahead string keeps the tensioned string in place when pulling--no smiley face. Doing this might add a minute or two to the stringing time but as an amateur stringer, speed has never been a big concern. I really enjoy your videos and look forward to the next one. TKS.
Aloha Robert, Thanks for watching and supporting my channel! As for removing the string slack on the outside of the frame, especially for stiff strings. After I loop the first half-hitch of the knot onto the anchor string, I simply press the string slack on the outside of the frame (using my thumb) into the tie-off hole while cinching the loop, then cinch the second loop by pulling straight up. You didn't see me do this in the video since I was stringing with synthetic gut. I don't think it's a big deal when it comes to the actual tension of the tie-off strings since it's on the outside of the sweet spot area. In fact, I always increase the tie-off string by 6 pounds, but the USRSA does not recommend this practice. I never thought of pushing the "one-ahead string" down against the string to be tensioned. That works! Are you then tensioning each string from the no-smiley face position? If yes, that can result in a lower string bed deflection and string tension. I demonstrated it in this video. th-cam.com/video/FFlCqzQPY1E/w-d-xo.html In the end, whatever methods you adopt in your stringing technique, the main thing is to keep it CONSISTENT! 🤙
@@AMstringing I am going to start using your tie off method. Because of the pull down/rock up knot cinching with a starting clamp, I've, at times, injured my shoulder and cut a finger from pulling poly strings too hard at an ackward angle. While the tension of the outside strings is not critically important, I just dislike really loose last mains and X's and try to keep them consistant with the other strings... I position the X string to be tensioned as straight across the frame as possible and use the "one ahead string" pushed against it to keep it in place. The tensioned string generally stays straight as it is pulled and I spend less time fussing at the strings with a blunt awl when finished......Unrelated question; I dislike playing with a freshly strung racquet and preferr to let them settle in for a day or so before use. To me, the stringbed seems more consistant. Immaginary? Have you noticed this?
@@robertjacobson941 Oh my, if it's going to cause you that much pain and suffering, maybe changing your tie-off cinching method could be what the doctor ordered! 😅 You'll never get your last mains and crosses to be at the same tension as the inside strings since there is no outer string after the last string. The main thing is to have equal tension on the last mains and crosses. This is why if you string with a 1-piece method, you tie off both ends as cross strings. If you want to see what I mean by this, check out this video - th-cam.com/video/OLdVwq81Ebs/w-d-xo.html. I wouldn't say it's "imaginary." It's probably because you prefer a string bed that is slightly softer and settled, rather than firmer and fresh. This is why some touring pros will specifically request same-day stringing rather than overnight stringing (or vice versa). 🤙
Aloha Marco, There are five sets of stringing instructions for the Yonex Vcore 98 listed in the USRSA Stringer's Digest. As long as it's not the 07VC model, the instructions for the other four Vcores are the same. 2-piece: 20'x18' Tension: 45-60 lbs Pattern: 16x19 Start mains: Throat Mains skip: 8T & 8H Tie-off mains: 7T Start cross: 8H Last cross: 8T Tie-off crosses: 6H, 11T Happy Stringing 🤙
What happened to your hands Albert? I did not participate on your previous post to spot the stringing mistakes, but I noticed you were wearing some sort of bandage. Hope you get better soon! I've never strung Prince's O ports, but I recall an additional tool was needed. Would you consider making a video for O ports stringing?
Aloha Javier, I had trigger finger surgery on my left hand (middle finger). I mentioned it in my video last week. I waited until my bandages were removed before I shot this video yesterday. Stitches come off next week! I created a video on installing the Prince O3 Port cross strings on the IART website. If you're a Premium Member, you can check it out here. gssalliance.com/vimeo_videos/installing-cross-strings-on-a-prince-o-port-or-speed-port-racquet/ 🤙
Aloha Lil, There are a couple of ways to remove the string slack on the outside of the frame. #1 - After you loop the first half-hitch of the knot onto the anchor string, simply press the string slack on the outside of the frame (using your thumb) into the tie-off hole while cinching the loop, then cinch the second loop by pulling straight up. I would recommend the Parnell knot for most applications. Check it out here - th-cam.com/video/WLckmF0G4Wg/w-d-xo.html #2 - Some stringers like to use the technique that Robert (in the comments) is describing. After you loop the first half-hitch onto the anchor string, pull the knot tail toward the string bed which will remove the string slack on the outside of the frame. Next, cinch the second loop by rocking the knot tail back and forth. I hope this helps! 🤙
![Racquet Stringing [Starting Main Strings | 5 Methods]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4Fy46Axh3is/mqdefault.jpg)
![Racquet Stringing [Starting Main Strings | 5 Methods]](/img/tr.png)
![Racquet Stringing [Tying Off the Last String | Techniques & Tips]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V83Uq97W5r0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Racquet Tutorial [Wrapping a Grip & Overgrip | Proper & Improper Tips]](/img/n.gif)
aloha albert. thank you for this great video. i think its one of your best. i was going to suggest you make a video on tips to eliminate cross-overs. one thing i do during my prestringing inspections looking for racquet wear, damage and cracks, i look at the old strings and how they seat parallel along the sides. often i will just take a quick photo. new frames never strung can be tricky. i pre-weave with some scrap strings with two different colors and plan ahead. i know providing quality workmanship for customers is very important, but many tennis players wouldnt even notice these defects. would a misweave or a crossover really affect a racquets performance or break any tennis rules about uniform patterns?
Aloha Coach Dudley,
Thanks for the kind words. I never really know which videos will attract more attention, but so far it is outperforming the views of my previous 10 videos!
A misweave on the outside of the sweetspot area of the string bed should not affect the performance of the racquet. It appears that it wouldn't violate any rules since the strings are on one plane. Here is what I found in the Friend at Court rule book.
Case 2: Is the stringing pattern of a racket considered to be generally uniform and flat if the strings are on more than one plane?
Decision: No.
A crossover can cause the string to break prematurely, especially if it is located at the top shoulders of the head. This is where natural wear occurs and if the crossover string is protruding past the bumper guard, it will be exposed to this wear. 🤙
I made an error of stringing a few crosses at a higher tension than the rest of the cross strings. That happened because I forgot to adjust the tension after I tied the knot. There were 3 -4 rows of crosses strung at 4lbs more. Is that a mistake that needs to be fixed by redoing the racquet ?
I enjoy your videos very much. Thanks for sharing your professional knowledge❤
Aloha Sue,
Yes, you're not alone; that is a common mistake. Here are your options in order of preference.
#1 - If you have more than enough string length to install all of your crosses without that "pre-stretched" string section, then you could cut off that section and proceed as normal.
#2 - If you're unsure if you'll have more than enough string, start your crosses with the opposite end of the string (the non-pre-stretched end). However, use as little string as possible when starting your crosses. In other words, either allow just enough string on the outside and use a starting clamp bridge to tension or use a starting knot. If you end up installing part of the pre-stretched string section when you reach the bottom, in my opinion, it's not as crucial compared to having it installed at the top. Players are not supposed to hit there anyway! 🤣
Thank you!
Aloha Adam, You're welcome! 🤙
Could you make a video or a comment on how to avoid bending or cracking frames? I'm using a drop weight and the mounting system is sub par. Sometimes I notice a lot of movement in the racquet frame which makes me uneasy how long it can withstand that stress.
Aloha, I wish I could say I've had more experience with a drop-weight machine to create such a video. Since you mentioned your machine mounting system is sub-par, that may be the issue. Also, if your machine is a tabletop model and not a standup model, it may be causing it to be less stable. This would be my two cents short of creating a video. 🤙
To tighten the tie off knots I've been using the pull down and rock forward method and I've noticed that you simply pull up on the first loop to remove slack. Do you think there is an appreciable difference in the tension of the last main or cross strings between the two methods?....To detect mis-weaves I use the beginner trick of pushing the "one ahead" string down against the string to be tensioned. Not only does this show correct weaves but the one ahead string keeps the tensioned string in place when pulling--no smiley face. Doing this might add a minute or two to the stringing time but as an amateur stringer, speed has never been a big concern. I really enjoy your videos and look forward to the next one. TKS.
Aloha Robert,
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel!
As for removing the string slack on the outside of the frame, especially for stiff strings.
After I loop the first half-hitch of the knot onto the anchor string, I simply press the string slack on the outside of the frame (using my thumb) into the tie-off hole while cinching the loop, then cinch the second loop by pulling straight up. You didn't see me do this in the video since I was stringing with synthetic gut.
I don't think it's a big deal when it comes to the actual tension of the tie-off strings since it's on the outside of the sweet spot area. In fact, I always increase the tie-off string by 6 pounds, but the USRSA does not recommend this practice.
I never thought of pushing the "one-ahead string" down against the string to be tensioned. That works!
Are you then tensioning each string from the no-smiley face position? If yes, that can result in a lower string bed deflection and string tension. I demonstrated it in this video. th-cam.com/video/FFlCqzQPY1E/w-d-xo.html
In the end, whatever methods you adopt in your stringing technique, the main thing is to keep it CONSISTENT! 🤙
@@AMstringing I am going to start using your tie off method. Because of the pull down/rock up knot cinching with a starting clamp, I've, at times, injured my shoulder and cut a finger from pulling poly strings too hard at an ackward angle. While the tension of the outside strings is not critically important, I just dislike really loose last mains and X's and try to keep them consistant with the other strings... I position the X string to be tensioned as straight across the frame as possible and use the "one ahead string" pushed against it to keep it in place. The tensioned string generally stays straight as it is pulled and I spend less time fussing at the strings with a blunt awl when finished......Unrelated question; I dislike playing with a freshly strung racquet and preferr to let them settle in for a day or so before use. To me, the stringbed seems more consistant. Immaginary? Have you noticed this?
@@robertjacobson941 Oh my, if it's going to cause you that much pain and suffering, maybe changing your tie-off cinching method could be what the doctor ordered! 😅
You'll never get your last mains and crosses to be at the same tension as the inside strings since there is no outer string after the last string. The main thing is to have equal tension on the last mains and crosses. This is why if you string with a 1-piece method, you tie off both ends as cross strings. If you want to see what I mean by this, check out this video - th-cam.com/video/OLdVwq81Ebs/w-d-xo.html.
I wouldn't say it's "imaginary." It's probably because you prefer a string bed that is slightly softer and settled, rather than firmer and fresh. This is why some touring pros will specifically request same-day stringing rather than overnight stringing (or vice versa). 🤙
recommended by OPEN CORT, Do you know where I could find the pattern sequence for Yonex Vcore 98
Aloha Marco, There are five sets of stringing instructions for the Yonex Vcore 98 listed in the USRSA Stringer's Digest. As long as it's not the 07VC model, the instructions for the other four Vcores are the same.
2-piece: 20'x18'
Tension: 45-60 lbs
Pattern: 16x19
Start mains: Throat
Mains skip: 8T & 8H
Tie-off mains: 7T
Start cross: 8H
Last cross: 8T
Tie-off crosses: 6H, 11T
Happy Stringing 🤙
What happened to your hands Albert? I did not participate on your previous post to spot the stringing mistakes, but I noticed you were wearing some sort of bandage. Hope you get better soon!
I've never strung Prince's O ports, but I recall an additional tool was needed. Would you consider making a video for O ports stringing?
Aloha Javier,
I had trigger finger surgery on my left hand (middle finger). I mentioned it in my video last week. I waited until my bandages were removed before I shot this video yesterday. Stitches come off next week!
I created a video on installing the Prince O3 Port cross strings on the IART website. If you're a Premium Member, you can check it out here.
gssalliance.com/vimeo_videos/installing-cross-strings-on-a-prince-o-port-or-speed-port-racquet/ 🤙
whenever I string a stiff poly string sometimes it does not sit flush on the side of the frame after tensioning or on the tie off, any advice.
Aloha Lil,
There are a couple of ways to remove the string slack on the outside of the frame.
#1 - After you loop the first half-hitch of the knot onto the anchor string, simply press the string slack on the outside of the frame (using your thumb) into the tie-off hole while cinching the loop, then cinch the second loop by pulling straight up. I would recommend the Parnell knot for most applications. Check it out here - th-cam.com/video/WLckmF0G4Wg/w-d-xo.html
#2 - Some stringers like to use the technique that Robert (in the comments) is describing. After you loop the first half-hitch onto the anchor string, pull the knot tail toward the string bed which will remove the string slack on the outside of the frame. Next, cinch the second loop by rocking the knot tail back and forth.
I hope this helps! 🤙