Maybe this is not the scope of this video but I think you should also mention, that if you are a tension consistency junky, when stringing, you should clamp as close as possible to the frame, go with the string round the "diablo" of the tensioner head, and jack the tension up 10% on the ending mains and crosses. Once I have done all this things for my racquet I was hooked :). The sound, feel and imo also the breaking period of the string are better. Great video! Keep clapping those cheeks ;) !
@@bogdanandrone653 lol, and then the next video (the crosses) where he calls out the Parnell knot and then Richard Parnell comments on his vid saying don’t call me out.
Thank you for the tutorial, i came across your videos trying to learn to string racquets and you have the best video for the knots. I just could not master the knots till now but your video worked out perfectly. I am now able to knot the strings more efficiently. For both tennis and badminton. Thanks a lot
Great video, Mark. One of the more recent techniques that I learned is putting in a short piece of polyester string into the skip holes. When you string the mains, this keeps the mains from blocking the skip holes, which can be a challenge when you string the crosses, necessitating the use of awls, hooks, chapstick, or other tools. When you are ready to string through the skip hole, pull out the short piece and hole remains unblocked for you to thread in the cross. If you do that, I think that will lower your speed record!
Thank you very much for your wonderful presentation. Simple and clear. After watching this video, I am deeply encouraged to get one of those little machines myself. Great and continue to share your wealth of knowledge and experience to many great lovers of Tennis.
Of the myriad stringing videos I have watched, yours are the easiest to follow. Even though that particular camera angle was a bitch, it was extremely helpful to see. Thank you for making that effort.
G'Day Mate nice work with your tutorials. I have gained valuable knowledge as i start my Stringing journey. I have a question regarding gauges of strings in Mains and Crosses. I am thinking of using a 16g main and 17g cross. is this something you would recommend or not? and reasons for or against. appreciate your channel mate.
Great video Mark, thanks for sharing! A few thoughts from my side: I learned stringing 2 years ago with youtube instructions and I have strung a bit more than 100 rackets in 2020, so I think I am not yet on Marks level, I still need 30-35min for 1 racket. Anyway, probably a lot of people will bring up how they do it differently and therefore you are doing "wrong", e.g. I do pull 10% extra with the last string to compensate the tension that is lost with tying the knot (and yes, there is always tension which will be lost). Also I switch sides way more often, I do 3 left, 4 right, 2 left, 2 right and so on. I find the instruction video on how Yonex Stringers have to string by TennisSpin very informative. Anyway, my main point: all this does not matter too much, whether you go around the diablo or just under it, whether you add 10% for knots or not, and I am sure the racket will survive if you do 4left, 8 right, 4 left. Important: be consistent, do it the same all the time. I string both for myself as well as for friends, and after the first or second string job, they know what to expect. My guess is that Mark's result will be a bit on the looser side because of the non-existing knot-tension-increase, but as soon as a client comes around a second time, they can just tell them "do a pound more than last time" and if he is consistent, that's no problem at all.
So true.. I've been stringing for over 15 years and learned from some guys who have strung for pros. I have my habits, idiosyncrasies and various tricks including as you mentioned, switching sides more often and adding 10% tension on the knotted strings, but I'm not going to say Mark is wrong. I do what I do to get consistency for myself and for people I string for, that's really what matters. But I do it the SAME way EVERY time... There are pros / cons of two-piece versus one-piece stringing as well. Mark's methods work for him and his customers; that's what counts. In this video, it looks like a poly string being used. For multi-filament strings, I would also pre-stretch the strings prior to stringing to minimize tension loss during the stringing process.
@@neilhyman8165 I do agree with you 100%. I even started this year to always put the racket on the machine on the same side (checking that the butt cap is not upside-down). And I try whenever possible to knot the cross-strings on themselves and not on the main (e.g. if you have gut on the mains and poly on the cross, I don't want to "endanger" the expensive gut in the main by knotting a poly around it), learned that from my goto-guy (he strung at the AO 2020, so he probably knows what he is doing). but I would never go so far to say, that I am right and everything else is wrong, the important thing is consistency. I know I am very anal when it comes to the little details, and probably all of my friends (around 4.0 level) would not care if I knot crosses on mains, but they want consistency - with the same tension they order, they expect the same result.
@@tennisthemenace3916 The OCD is real. Not only do I always mount the frame on the same side, but my table is labeled "H" and "T" so the orientation is always the same and I have marks on the table to reset the center clamps if I have to expand for a large size frame. And I always use a starting clamp behind the fixed clamp on the first main... always start my weaves exactly the same... etc. etc...
The 10% increase on the Knot main is a "Retailer" recommendation by USRSA to keep some (naive) customers who gauge the quality of the string job by the stiffness of the outer main, Happy. Like Mark, I'm not naive so I never add extra tension to my knot mains. Besides, the more knowledgable amongst you who have heard of Progressive or Sergetti stringing, would know that those methods progressively Reduce String Tension as they move to the outer mains to Enlarge the Sweet Spot. So why would anyone in their right mind want to do the opposite?
@@a2casius first of all, I am not from the US (or North America for that matter), so I do not get my recommendations from the USRSA ;-) Why do I add 10% to the last mains? Because that's the way I learned how to do it. I am totally open for learning new things and looking at different ways how to string, but I am offended by your tone. Calling others "naïve" or "not in their right mind" just because they use different technique than you do, is just not ok. If you check 10 random stringing tutorials, I bet at least a few of them, if not even a majority, add extra tension for the knots. There are even quite a few electronic stringing machines, that have a special button for the knot-strings to pull an extra few % for exactly this reason. I am not debating whether this is right or wrong, I will happily look into Progressive/Sergetti stringing as I am always looking to expand my view and knowledge, but I would ask you to be respectful of other peoples opinion and not disqualify them just because you have a different opinion.
Thanks for the great tutorial! What I don’t get as an engineer: at the knots you always lose some tension, because you just do by hand and not with the accurate machine, don’t you? Do you plan that into the process, e.g. adding half a kg / lbs tension extra to the desired one? Cheers
Thanks Mark, I know this was a while ago but this is pure gold. Where can we find a database of racquet info, re: what grommets to skip when/where, etc?
Hi Mark, great tutorial! Just a clarification question: at 8.16min in the video you say "I am gonna skip the eighth" but I think you mean the ninth no? Starting stringing and just want to make sure I am not making one of those beginner's mistake here.
Hi mate, when you tension the first time on the far side, was the clamp locked at the base? If so, wouldn't that prevent tension being pulled/cause a problem?
Hello, what is the good machine for stringing rackets ? Any good types ? I would like to do for myself also for some other people. Thank you for any suggestions.
Hi Mark, just watched your live today stringing the racquets, I’m looking at buying a stringing machine and the 2 I’m looking at in my price range and available to me in Australia are the Gamma Progression II ELS and the Spinfire Flame with Wise tension head…(Spinfires actually frame looks similar to Gamma)…just wondering if you have any opinions on the Wise head vs ELS? Cheers
Hi...I watched your video and found it informative.. I have a question..What is the model of the stringing machine you are using...🤔.. Thanks for the video and your advice .
Hi Mr. Sansait. Thank you for the tutorial. If you need to stop an do something else before you started on the crosses, could you? Or is there now a 50+ lbs per square inch asymmetric load on the frame? I guess what I'm asking is do you have to finish what you started straight away or could you come back a few hours later to do the crosses. I can see a situation where something could come up and now your racquets are being tortured until you come back... Thanks
@@MarkSansait If I use the constan pull, sometimes the wise pulls me beyond the set tension, for example if I put 22kg it also reaches 23.4 and then goes back to 22, without having a pre-stretch set. does it do it to you too?
Very cool. I actually just use a starting clamp for the first main pull and don't bother with using a base clamp. I'll sometimes use another starting clamp on the first pulled string as well if I'm stringing with a thin, slippery string.
@@LubaLuba1 The first few mains always start at grommet covered holes so the frame won't get scratched. But if for some reason they aren't, you can use a spacer between the frame and the starter clamp.
So today when I strung my mains I tried your technique of doing 4 of a side and then 8 of the other after previously alternating sides every main. After I strung the 8 on one side I Parnell knotted and then went to the other side to pull the remaining 4. Here I see you kept the clamp on and knotted both at the end. I’m wondering if I lost tension by knotting preemptively. Just thinking out loud thank you for the stringing videos they are helping tons.
Very good instructive video... keep it up. Just love the way you teach. By any chance do you have a book on stringing rackets or one you can recommend...
Good question. It didn’t look like he did. I can’t imagine he pulled that knot hard enough to offset the losses. I normally go up 4 lbs and pull my knots a little harder than it looked like he did. Not sure I’m doing it right, it’s just what I do
Is this set to constant pull? Also, if using a 12 meter pack (not reel), is it safe to just cut the string in half? Or should I go for something like 6.1m - 6.2m for mains and whatever remains - crosses?
Can you not simply mark the holes that are to be missed in the Head and tail that can be seen with the old strings on ? With a chalk or whatever ? Where do you go for manufacturer recommendations... or am I missing something here ?
Have you ever tried tensioning both starting mains before clamping? I found this tip before and found it helping a lot. I also use a starting clamp to pull the knots as I find it to be a much stronger grip.
Just to cover something Mark did not explain in detail - look at the total number of sets of gromet tubes in the throat. If it is an even number the strings will start by running down from the head to the throat. The opposite will be correct if the total number of set of gromets is odd.
This is an outside chance, but Mark, what plyers do you use? I’ve broken my string on the last tie-off knot a couple times now because the teeth of the plyers I’m using break through the string while I’m trying to pull tension. It’s VERY frustrating. Plyers that don’t break strings so easily seem like a small but useful upgrade. Any recommendations?
I cant find the exact one I use, just make sure you use a "no teeth" or "smooth jaw" plyers. these will do: www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-Mini-Reach-Needle-Pliers/dp/B0BG2FLVMF/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=Pliers%2Bno%2Bteeth&qid=1705985879&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Brilliant , thank you so much! I replay your knot segments on the mains and crosses every time I re-string so I sincerely appreciate the time you took to set up those angles.
Hey Mark, just wanted to update that I tried the new plyers with my most recent stringing and it worked really well. Cleanest knots yet. Thanks so much. I’ll save the spitting and swearing for the court from now on ;)
Question: Could you place the very first clamp closer to the middle so it won’t get in the way of the clamp that you’re stringing the first side with on the mains? If that makes sense. I see there’s some slack you’re having while pulling the first few mains. Thanks!
Hey Mark. I have the exact same setup but in my case, the tension head is positioned such that the diablo is about level / slightly higher than the mounting clamp bases which does not allow a full 360 swivel of the racquet. It's not a big deal, but I'm wondering why yours does? Did you use the Gamma adaptor plate? Did you raise the table? Also, I notice that you pull under the diablo rather than wrapping the string around it... any reason for that? Thanks!
Nice video and closeup of the knots. Are you adding some extra tension to the final pull on each side to reduce knot tension loss? Also Head and some other brands have little arrows above the last couple of mains holes, which is useful for the skips.
@@MarkSansait Then there will be tension loss on the last string on each side which will spread to the other strings. But if you are used to it, then so be it.
Thanks Mark! Noticed you do the knots manually, while I personally use the stringer. Any thoughts on that? It does warp the grovel a bit, but figured it helps best preserve the tensions as well…
excellent video - I have to do something similar to this shot, how did you set up your camera? Simple tripod or c-stand? Also which lens did you use for the close ups when doing the knots? You got nice and tight and the focus was dead on!
hey mark, loved the video! quick question, is there any benefit to wrapping the string around the diablo (as opposed to just under it like you do)? just curious if it makes any difference!
@@MarkSansait Hey guys, If i may add my 2 cents. Wrapping the string around the diablo doesn't seem like something that is all that important, but is more important than you think. When you don't, you get that texture from the inside of the tension head that almost scores the string just in the slightest, and at the same time will thin the string out ever so slightly. Does this make a big difference? No. But if getting super technical, the diablo will take a bit of the pressure off the string from the tension head and allow the string to pull mostly from the diablo's wrap which won't clamp the string via the tension head nearly as much. I've had a lot of experiences with this being a problem with super thin polys (like 1.20 and less) as well as 17 gauge multifilaments. The thinning of the string has made some prematurely snap if too much pressure is added and it makes for some understandably upset customers. Not to say that not diabloing is a bad thing to do, obviously this is in very certain situations, but just out of personal experience and preference I've started doing it for all of the clients I string for, whether 15g poly at 40lbs or 17g multi at 65lbs in a 14x16 string pattern. I've been stringing for almost 6 years now, from the USTA Ladies Daytime D level, to upcoming juniors, all the way to Top 100 ATP players and only at the higher levels does this really make a difference. Still, great video and I really liked your explanation Mark
I've found a perfect combo for exactly what your asking. I use 17g Wilson gut in the mains @52lbs and 18g Head Hawk "Touch" in the crosses @50lbs. These strings give enough pop and control etc. yet allow me to be in total control of how I hit and where I hit it etc.
Your documentation showed skip 7’th and 9’th. Were u stringing a pro staff ? At 8.20 u say “ I am gonna skip the 8’th and go to the 9’th”, I am a bit confused if u skipped 9’th as per instruction or not ?
So what exactly do you mean you start at the throat because of the way the grommets are set up? So what would constitute stringing the mains starting at the head versus the throat?
when I have finished the mains I pluck them guitar style, what worries me is they dont all have the same pitch. Surely if they are the same tension they should be the same pitch ? Any help gratefully received.
The corresponding strings should be the same pitch (the two middles, the two outers, etc.), but the outer strings will be higher than the inners because the outers are shorter.
Good video but I think you left out some important details such as exactly why you started from throat to head ( 6 vs 8 grommets ) and you should mention that when tensioning the string should always be running underneath the frame and not over the top of it.
Why string one full side and only half the other side? Wouldn't it make more sense to do both sides evenly at the same time?....less strain on the frame
Dan, that is ABSOLUTELY true what you said. I do it half of one side, full other side, and finish the other half because it is a mix of speed and less warping on the frame. But yes, if you want almost ZERO warp on the frame, alternate each main.
Why do you clamp so far away from the frame? Also you should do 3 mains then switch and do 6 then go back to the other side. Your explanation on skipping is wrong as well. You’re not skipping 8 you’re skipping 7 and 9. You’re stringing through 1-6 then 8 and 10. That knot you tied isn’t a double knot it’s a Wilson pro knot however you forgot to pull the slack out of the string on the outside of the frame before tightening it down.
@@atrem7942 Whilst true, people are paying for the service, and allowing the racquet to be handled by someone else, many small things factor into tension loss, and also even the clamping of the racquet in the beginning looks overly tight, and that damages the structure of a racquet and it's lifetime durability
@@diddyac9158 I know, and it's absolutely true. Certainly when restringing multiple rackets for the same person. I just did not like the way he wrote his comment
You are using the diabolo in a wrong way. Now you are pulling under an angle which is causing tension loss. You must go round the diabolo in such a way that the string goes through the holes in a straight line so you dont lose tension…
Can’t tell you how much this helped - especially that knot angle. Crucial and saved many minutes, maybe even hours, of my life. Thank you.
Best stringing tutorial on TH-cam, great detail with close-ups
The first video wich explains it so well that I have the feeling that I can do this right now myself without making any errors. Thanks Mark :)
Thank you so much I had so much trouble due to small stuff but this video did wonders and made my first time stringing much easier. Happy holidays 🎉
Boutta be making double at my work with this soon thank you!! I’ve been wanting to string for a while now and my coworker is teaching me soon!!
Nice Vid Sensei Sansait. This is just what we wanted 👍🏻
AYYYYY
i’m always down to see tutorials. always be learning 👌🏻
Great way to show the double knot, learned something new there, thanks Mark!
instablaster.
It's also called a Parnell knot.
This video couldn't have come better.I am planning to start my first stringing myself next week.
best stringing video, thank you
This video has very useful, very essential info, and I know you know your stuff.
Maybe this is not the scope of this video but I think you should also mention, that if you are a tension consistency junky, when stringing, you should clamp as close as possible to the frame, go with the string round the "diablo" of the tensioner head, and jack the tension up 10% on the ending mains and crosses. Once I have done all this things for my racquet I was hooked :). The sound, feel and imo also the breaking period of the string are better. Great video! Keep clapping those cheeks ;) !
This was a normal comment until the fucking end what the hell
@@BlakeT the comment was in theme with the jokes that were going around at that time in the videos :).
@@bogdanandrone653 lol, and then the next video (the crosses) where he calls out the Parnell knot and then Richard Parnell comments on his vid saying don’t call me out.
Thank you for the tutorial, i came across your videos trying to learn to string racquets and you have the best video for the knots. I just could not master the knots till now but your video worked out perfectly. I am now able to knot the strings more efficiently. For both tennis and badminton. Thanks a lot
Great video, Mark. One of the more recent techniques that I learned is putting in a short piece of polyester string into the skip holes. When you string the mains, this keeps the mains from blocking the skip holes, which can be a challenge when you string the crosses, necessitating the use of awls, hooks, chapstick, or other tools. When you are ready to string through the skip hole, pull out the short piece and hole remains unblocked for you to thread in the cross. If you do that, I think that will lower your speed record!
I used to do that but now I just keep a block of wood and a razor blade and cut the string to a very sharp angle.
very good explained, thanks
TH-cam needed this!!! Here before it hits 1,000,000 views!
I'm knot happy and dying to start another string job. I'm really tied into the technique. Thanks
Super informative and helpful. Added o my bookmarks. Thanks a lot!
@@MarkSansait Could make video about Pre-stretching?
Very interesting. I may start stringing my own racquets.
Good vid. I believe the knots you did are the Parnell knots ;)
definitely a parnell haha
Fantastic. Great tutorial. Thank you!!
Thanks Mark. First time using my stringer and your videos helped a lot. Thank you for the great tutorial and tips
Thank you very much for your wonderful presentation. Simple and clear. After watching this video, I am deeply encouraged to get one of those little machines myself. Great and continue to share your wealth of knowledge and experience to many great lovers of Tennis.
Of the myriad stringing videos I have watched, yours are the easiest to follow. Even though that particular camera angle was a bitch, it was extremely helpful to see. Thank you for making that effort.
G'Day Mate nice work with your tutorials. I have gained valuable knowledge as i start my Stringing journey. I have a question regarding gauges of strings in Mains and Crosses. I am thinking of using a 16g main and 17g cross. is this something you would recommend or not? and reasons for or against. appreciate your channel mate.
Great video Mark, thanks for sharing!
A few thoughts from my side: I learned stringing 2 years ago with youtube instructions and I have strung a bit more than 100 rackets in 2020, so I think I am not yet on Marks level, I still need 30-35min for 1 racket. Anyway, probably a lot of people will bring up how they do it differently and therefore you are doing "wrong", e.g. I do pull 10% extra with the last string to compensate the tension that is lost with tying the knot (and yes, there is always tension which will be lost). Also I switch sides way more often, I do 3 left, 4 right, 2 left, 2 right and so on. I find the instruction video on how Yonex Stringers have to string by TennisSpin very informative.
Anyway, my main point: all this does not matter too much, whether you go around the diablo or just under it, whether you add 10% for knots or not, and I am sure the racket will survive if you do 4left, 8 right, 4 left. Important: be consistent, do it the same all the time. I string both for myself as well as for friends, and after the first or second string job, they know what to expect. My guess is that Mark's result will be a bit on the looser side because of the non-existing knot-tension-increase, but as soon as a client comes around a second time, they can just tell them "do a pound more than last time" and if he is consistent, that's no problem at all.
So true.. I've been stringing for over 15 years and learned from some guys who have strung for pros. I have my habits, idiosyncrasies and various tricks including as you mentioned, switching sides more often and adding 10% tension on the knotted strings, but I'm not going to say Mark is wrong. I do what I do to get consistency for myself and for people I string for, that's really what matters. But I do it the SAME way EVERY time... There are pros / cons of two-piece versus one-piece stringing as well. Mark's methods work for him and his customers; that's what counts. In this video, it looks like a poly string being used. For multi-filament strings, I would also pre-stretch the strings prior to stringing to minimize tension loss during the stringing process.
@@neilhyman8165 I do agree with you 100%. I even started this year to always put the racket on the machine on the same side (checking that the butt cap is not upside-down). And I try whenever possible to knot the cross-strings on themselves and not on the main (e.g. if you have gut on the mains and poly on the cross, I don't want to "endanger" the expensive gut in the main by knotting a poly around it), learned that from my goto-guy (he strung at the AO 2020, so he probably knows what he is doing).
but I would never go so far to say, that I am right and everything else is wrong, the important thing is consistency. I know I am very anal when it comes to the little details, and probably all of my friends (around 4.0 level) would not care if I knot crosses on mains, but they want consistency - with the same tension they order, they expect the same result.
@@tennisthemenace3916 The OCD is real. Not only do I always mount the frame on the same side, but my table is labeled "H" and "T" so the orientation is always the same and I have marks on the table to reset the center clamps if I have to expand for a large size frame. And I always use a starting clamp behind the fixed clamp on the first main... always start my weaves exactly the same... etc. etc...
The 10% increase on the Knot main is a "Retailer" recommendation by USRSA to keep some (naive) customers who gauge the quality of the string job by the stiffness of the outer main, Happy. Like Mark, I'm not naive so I never add extra tension to my knot mains. Besides, the more knowledgable amongst you who have heard of Progressive or Sergetti stringing, would know that those methods progressively Reduce String Tension as they move to the outer mains to Enlarge the Sweet Spot. So why would anyone in their right mind want to do the opposite?
@@a2casius first of all, I am not from the US (or North America for that matter), so I do not get my recommendations from the USRSA ;-) Why do I add 10% to the last mains? Because that's the way I learned how to do it. I am totally open for learning new things and looking at different ways how to string, but I am offended by your tone. Calling others "naïve" or "not in their right mind" just because they use different technique than you do, is just not ok.
If you check 10 random stringing tutorials, I bet at least a few of them, if not even a majority, add extra tension for the knots. There are even quite a few electronic stringing machines, that have a special button for the knot-strings to pull an extra few % for exactly this reason. I am not debating whether this is right or wrong, I will happily look into Progressive/Sergetti stringing as I am always looking to expand my view and knowledge, but I would ask you to be respectful of other peoples opinion and not disqualify them just because you have a different opinion.
great video, it helps a lot! Just quick question, how to properly measure the length of the string? how to accurately measure 20 or 21ft? Many thanks
I typically measure 21 feet for open string patterns. 22-23 feet for closed string patterns.
Yes, but how do you measure 21 feet?any particular method?@@MarkSansait
Thanks for the great tutorial!
What I don’t get as an engineer: at the knots you always lose some tension, because you just do by hand and not with the accurate machine, don’t you? Do you plan that into the process, e.g. adding half a kg / lbs tension extra to the desired one?
Cheers
Thank you, super helpful!
Thanks Mark, I know this was a while ago but this is pure gold. Where can we find a database of racquet info, re: what grommets to skip when/where, etc?
Hi Mark, great tutorial! Just a clarification question: at 8.16min in the video you say "I am gonna skip the eighth" but I think you mean the ninth no? Starting stringing and just want to make sure I am not making one of those beginner's mistake here.
Hi mate, when you tension the first time on the far side, was the clamp locked at the base?
If so, wouldn't that prevent tension being pulled/cause a problem?
Hello, what is the good machine for stringing rackets ? Any good types ? I would like to do for myself also for some other people. Thank you for any suggestions.
Hi Mark, just watched your live today stringing the racquets, I’m looking at buying a stringing machine and the 2 I’m looking at in my price range and available to me in Australia are the Gamma Progression II ELS and the Spinfire Flame with Wise tension head…(Spinfires actually frame looks similar to Gamma)…just wondering if you have any opinions on the Wise head vs ELS? Cheers
Hi...I watched your video and found it informative.. I have a question..What is the model of the stringing machine you are using...🤔.. Thanks for the video and your advice .
What string pattern guide do you recommend? Are there any low cost or free guides?
Hi Mr. Sansait. Thank you for the tutorial.
If you need to stop an do something else before you started on the crosses, could you? Or is there now a 50+ lbs per square inch asymmetric load on the frame? I guess what I'm asking is do you have to finish what you started straight away or could you come back a few hours later to do the crosses. I can see a situation where something could come up and now your racquets are being tortured until you come back... Thanks
I dont think walking away from a stringing job halfway through will hurt the frame/strings.
Thanks. What stringing machine do you use? Very helpful video.
Great video! Thank you.
Hi Mark. Very nice and informarive video, thank you!
What machine do you use?
Secondly, how long does it take you to rearrange a raqcuet?
I love it and just debating how much I should invest in machine.
Hi do you always use the constant pull? do you think it can be useful for a better stringing?
Constant pull is definitely better for stringing
@@MarkSansait If I use the constan pull, sometimes the wise pulls me beyond the set tension, for example if I put 22kg it also reaches 23.4 and then goes back to 22, without having a pre-stretch set. does it do it to you too?
Very cool. I actually just use a starting clamp for the first main pull and don't bother with using a base clamp. I'll sometimes use another starting clamp on the first pulled string as well if I'm stringing with a thin, slippery string.
What prevents the clamps from scratching the frame when pulling tension
@@LubaLuba1 The first few mains always start at grommet covered holes so the frame won't get scratched. But if for some reason they aren't, you can use a spacer between the frame and the starter clamp.
So today when I strung my mains I tried your technique of doing 4 of a side and then 8 of the other after previously alternating sides every main. After I strung the 8 on one side I Parnell knotted and then went to the other side to pull the remaining 4. Here I see you kept the clamp on and knotted both at the end. I’m wondering if I lost tension by knotting preemptively. Just thinking out loud thank you for the stringing videos they are helping tons.
When one uses two knots or 4 knots? any particular reason? good tutorial mark. thanks for sharing
One piece stringing => 2 ending knots
two piece stringing => 3 ending knots and 1 starting knot
Now I know how my racquet being strung :)
Hi, at 8:19 you mentioned skipping the 8th , but shouldn't that be the 9th?? Great video though
Very good! Thanks
Very good instructive video... keep it up. Just love the way you teach. By any chance do you have a book on stringing rackets or one you can recommend...
Thanks Peter -
I always found that doing the actual thing and making mistakes is much better than reading a book.
Go out there and string!
@@MarkSansait will do, thank you so much. Your videos are very instructive.
Hi.
I know that particular machine doesn't have a knot function, but did you increase the tension for the knots manually?
Cheers
Good question. It didn’t look like he did. I can’t imagine he pulled that knot hard enough to offset the losses. I normally go up 4 lbs and pull my knots a little harder than it looked like he did. Not sure I’m doing it right, it’s just what I do
Is this set to constant pull? Also, if using a 12 meter pack (not reel), is it safe to just cut the string in half? Or should I go for something like 6.1m - 6.2m for mains and whatever remains - crosses?
Yes constant pull.
I always try to two piece every stringing i do.
Can you not simply mark the holes that are to be missed in the Head and tail that can be seen with the old strings on ? With a chalk or whatever ? Where do you go for manufacturer recommendations... or am I missing something here ?
I am using always for the first string a starting clamp and af course the clamp of the stringing machine
Have you ever tried tensioning both starting mains before clamping? I found this tip before and found it helping a lot. I also use a starting clamp to pull the knots as I find it to be a much stronger grip.
I do this as well. It's called the yusuki method. I really don't like holding one of the clamps up while the other side of the string is tensioned.
Just to cover something Mark did not explain in detail - look at the total number of sets of gromet tubes in the throat. If it is an even number the strings will start by running down from the head to the throat. The opposite will be correct if the total number of set of gromets is odd.
This is an outside chance, but Mark, what plyers do you use? I’ve broken my string on the last tie-off knot a couple times now because the teeth of the plyers I’m using break through the string while I’m trying to pull tension. It’s VERY frustrating. Plyers that don’t break strings so easily seem like a small but useful upgrade. Any recommendations?
I cant find the exact one I use, just make sure you use a "no teeth" or "smooth jaw" plyers.
these will do:
www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-Mini-Reach-Needle-Pliers/dp/B0BG2FLVMF/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=Pliers%2Bno%2Bteeth&qid=1705985879&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Brilliant , thank you so much! I replay your knot segments on the mains and crosses every time I re-string so I sincerely appreciate the time you took to set up those angles.
Hey Mark, just wanted to update that I tried the new plyers with my most recent stringing and it worked really well. Cleanest knots yet. Thanks so much. I’ll save the spitting and swearing for the court from now on ;)
Question: Could you place the very first clamp closer to the middle so it won’t get in the way of the clamp that you’re stringing the first side with on the mains? If that makes sense.
I see there’s some slack you’re having while pulling the first few mains.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
:)
Hey, Mark, I'm thinking about getting the Gamma Progression II as well. Did you simply remove the drop weight lever and get an electric puller?
I believe he mentioned it was originally a crank not a drop weight
Yes
Aren't your clamps supposed to get as close to the frame as possible to avoid tension loss?
Thank you.
Hey Mark. I have the exact same setup but in my case, the tension head is positioned such that the diablo is about level / slightly higher than the mounting clamp bases which does not allow a full 360 swivel of the racquet. It's not a big deal, but I'm wondering why yours does? Did you use the Gamma adaptor plate? Did you raise the table? Also, I notice that you pull under the diablo rather than wrapping the string around it... any reason for that? Thanks!
Nice video and closeup of the knots. Are you adding some extra tension to the final pull on each side to reduce knot tension loss? Also Head and some other brands have little arrows above the last couple of mains holes, which is useful for the skips.
I am not adding extra tension, just using my good ole, hands
@@MarkSansait Then there will be tension loss on the last string on each side which will spread to the other strings. But if you are used to it, then so be it.
Thank you
Awesome video Mark! what stringer are you using? It looks so easy how your doing this.
Gamma Progression 2 with a Electric Tensioner Mount
Any tips on how to identify if a crack is just in the paint or into the racquet?
Hi where can I purchase a machine like yours what’s the model ?
I got lucky and got it from a former student.
Thanks Mark! Noticed you do the knots manually, while I personally use the stringer. Any thoughts on that? It does warp the grovel a bit, but figured it helps best preserve the tensions as well…
excellent video - I have to do something similar to this shot, how did you set up your camera? Simple tripod or c-stand? Also which lens did you use for the close ups when doing the knots? You got nice and tight and the focus was dead on!
What is your take on using the Diablo? I don't think you are using yours here.
I go under it, but not a full loop
hey mark, loved the video! quick question, is there any benefit to wrapping the string around the diablo (as opposed to just under it like you do)? just curious if it makes any difference!
In all honesty, I cant tell a damn difference lol
@@MarkSansait Hey guys, If i may add my 2 cents.
Wrapping the string around the diablo doesn't seem like something that is all that important, but is more important than you think. When you don't, you get that texture from the inside of the tension head that almost scores the string just in the slightest, and at the same time will thin the string out ever so slightly. Does this make a big difference? No. But if getting super technical, the diablo will take a bit of the pressure off the string from the tension head and allow the string to pull mostly from the diablo's wrap which won't clamp the string via the tension head nearly as much.
I've had a lot of experiences with this being a problem with super thin polys (like 1.20 and less) as well as 17 gauge multifilaments. The thinning of the string has made some prematurely snap if too much pressure is added and it makes for some understandably upset customers.
Not to say that not diabloing is a bad thing to do, obviously this is in very certain situations, but just out of personal experience and preference I've started doing it for all of the clients I string for, whether 15g poly at 40lbs or 17g multi at 65lbs in a 14x16 string pattern. I've been stringing for almost 6 years now, from the USTA Ladies Daytime D level, to upcoming juniors, all the way to Top 100 ATP players and only at the higher levels does this really make a difference.
Still, great video and I really liked your explanation Mark
how do you know wether to start at the throat or head when you start?
Your hair look better than the other clip...lol
Thanks
How would you start the mains with flying clamps? Mine can't grip a single string strong enough to pull tension like that.
can you suggest a string for ultimate control with pop and having above average tension maintenance.
thanks in advance
I've found a perfect combo for exactly what your asking. I use 17g Wilson gut in the mains @52lbs and 18g Head Hawk "Touch" in the crosses @50lbs. These strings give enough pop and control etc. yet allow me to be in total control of how I hit and where I hit it etc.
Just curious why you dont clamp closer to the grommet on the first few strings?
Because he's an amateur stringer. Just because someone posts something on youtube doesn't make them an expert.
Wow know one want to show how to start the mains from cutting that to the end tie
Your documentation showed skip 7’th and 9’th. Were u stringing a pro staff ? At 8.20 u say “ I am gonna skip the 8’th and go to the 9’th”, I am a bit confused if u skipped 9’th as per instruction or not ?
Do you increase tension on the knotted main?
what kind of pliers do u use?
So what exactly do you mean you start at the throat because of the way the grommets are set up? So what would constitute stringing the mains starting at the head versus the throat?
Start at the main of the throat for THIS racket due to the string pattern.
when I have finished the mains I pluck them guitar style, what worries me is they dont all have the same pitch. Surely if they are the same tension they should be the same pitch ? Any help gratefully received.
The corresponding strings should be the same pitch (the two middles, the two outers, etc.), but the outer strings will be higher than the inners because the outers are shorter.
Great video. I thought H = head and T = throat
The knot can I use you skill for badminton
Good video but I think you left out some important details such as exactly why you started from throat to head ( 6 vs 8 grommets ) and you should mention that when tensioning the string should always be running underneath the frame and not over the top of it.
No starting clamp?
I dont find it to be necessary
is it fine to end the mains and crosses using a parnell knot? it’s the easiest one and the one i’ve been using
Yes u can!
Should release the base clamp first then the string clamp. Also you are not clamping as close to the frame as you can
Why string one full side and only half the other side? Wouldn't it make more sense to do both sides evenly at the same time?....less strain on the frame
Dan, that is ABSOLUTELY true what you said.
I do it half of one side, full other side, and finish the other half because it is a mix of speed and less warping on the frame.
But yes, if you want almost ZERO warp on the frame, alternate each main.
How come you don't loop it around the diabolo?
I go under it, but not a full loop
Because he's an amateur stringer that doesn't know how to use it or what it's for.
Bravo
8:10 you meant skip the 9th, not the 8th, right?
Damn I’ve been doing my double knots wrong 😑 lol
Thats the way I do it, if you do it differently and it works, then thats no problem at all!
14 minutes of a live? What is that a stream for ants?!?!
Its highlights for my livestream
Oh ok
Woohoooo
wewt
Why do you clamp so far away from the frame? Also you should do 3 mains then switch and do 6 then go back to the other side.
Your explanation on skipping is wrong as well. You’re not skipping 8 you’re skipping 7 and 9. You’re stringing through 1-6 then 8 and 10.
That knot you tied isn’t a double knot it’s a Wilson pro knot however you forgot to pull the slack out of the string on the outside of the frame before tightening it down.
It not the Ersa stringing exam for pro stringers. give the guy a break.
@@atrem7942 Whilst true, people are paying for the service, and allowing the racquet to be handled by someone else, many small things factor into tension loss, and also even the clamping of the racquet in the beginning looks overly tight, and that damages the structure of a racquet and it's lifetime durability
Please make a tutorial, I'd watch yours too.
Actually he does a parnell knot, not a Wilson pro knot
@@diddyac9158 I know, and it's absolutely true. Certainly when restringing multiple rackets for the same person. I just did not like the way he wrote his comment
Ah yes the Pro-Knot the best knot
a racquet stringer who identifies as an engineer, or an engineer who identifies as a racquet stringer? ;-)
BOTH!
You are using the diabolo in a wrong way. Now you are pulling under an angle which is causing tension loss. You must go round the diabolo in such a way that the string goes through the holes in a straight line so you dont lose tension…
You never explained why you feed the string through the throat first .
For this racket, because of the string pattern.