I like that you say to the viewers: "You have watched alot of videos already and this is my take on it". And then you nail it and make the others look like amateurs.
As always, an excellent video! As a self taught garage stringer, I saw a lot of pro level tips and techinques in your ATW pattern to absorb, hopefully retain, and eventually apply. As a low volume stringer, I've wondered previously if using the ATW pattern was worth the time involved and complications but seeing how quickly and easily you strung the racquet, it's clear that, once familiar with the pattern, it goes as fast as the usual one piece but without the unequal tension in the outer M's and X's. BTW--I was happy to see that I'm not the only one to toss racquets when trying to spin them..... R Jacobson
Aloha Robert, To be honest, if you stick to the traditional 2-piece stringing, top to bottom, you can't go wrong there. The ATW technique is not a "must-do" for low or high-volume stringers. It's something that I like to do as one of my stringing signatures that I can call my own. Just thought I would share my technique with you guys! 🤙
I notice that your clamps are often quite far away from the grommets, doesn't that lead to tension loss? I always try to clamp very close to the grommets for minimum slack on the pull-around on the next string
Aloha Uchiha, Yes, you are correct that positioning your string clamp as close to the grommet is recommended. However, there are three situations where I typically will not do that. 1) When clamping a main string and allowing extra space for the cross string to be installed next. 2) When the clamp is blocked by one of the side support arms. On my machine, they are at 2:00, 4:00, 8:00, and 10:00. 3) I can't always position the string clamp flush with the grommets on the cross strings. If you notice, my string clamps have three wide teeth and sometimes they will not fit perfectly into the gaps created by the mains and crosses. If that's the case, I'll position the string clamp inwards (toward the center of the string bed) to fit it perfectly with those gaps. I hope that makes sense. 😃
Aloha Johnny, I recommend NOT using the ATW for polyester strings, especially if they are shaped or textured. Its stiff nature causes more friction and notching than nylon or natural gut. I recommend a 2-piece method using the one-ahead technique with a small loop. 🤙 th-cam.com/video/UBtKrWg3E9o/w-d-xo.html
If a racket is considered irratic at ball impact in the upper hoop of the frame.... like the Pure Strike VS 2022. Would it benefit to string the cross from bottom up? is it the frame that is too stiff or too soft in the upper hoop that causes the irratic feeling.... can that be solved by stringing in a certain way or compensated with tension or by stringing cross from down up? Maybe an idea for a video?
Aloha Benjamin, I don't believe it has anything to do with the way the racquet is strung, although the top-to-bottom method is the preferred method due to the stress placed on the head and to maintain the structural integrity of the frame. If anything, you can try adding weight to the head at the 2:00/10:00 locations to enhance stability and power. 🤙
@@AMstringing Hi. I thought the strings also helped with the structural integrity of frame as you move along stringing, as the pressure from inside out from the strings, just like the support arms do. One could argue that the strongest part of the frame is where you start and not end as the stress would be greatest in the start and less as the more strings are put in the cross bc cross acts as support as you string. I would think that the first couple of crosses are the ones causing most stress to the structure until they start acting as support. What do you think? Maybe I should try actually string the VS from bottom up as a way of tightening up the top, as the zip effect will shorten the top more starting from buttom/yoke. Tecnifibres tech with ISO, they actually makes the short strings more tight and the long strings less tight in order to make the stringbed more consostent and sweetspot larger. That is kinda counterintuitive logically but the idea is to make the short strings move more bc of being more squeezed/ have less frame flex... I guess.
@@benjaminjensen111 In my opinion, all the main strings cause most of the stress to the head. This is why it's important to tighten the 12:00 and 6:00 billiards snug but not too tight; otherwise, they can crack (hairline) the inside of the frame. During the main string installation, the frame will distort or become slightly "rounder." As the crosses are installed, the distortion will undo itself as the tension brings the frame back to normal. Here are a couple of videos that cover this occurrence. 🤙 th-cam.com/video/5Rkq5uMAKJY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/iyK5dWTr1bQ/w-d-xo.html
@@AMstringing Make sense as the 6 point support of my Dropweight (Premium 3000) gets loser at the 6 and 12 inside frame support, when stringing the crosses and needs tightening every 3 cross. I guees the expensive machines do not have this "problem"
@@AMstringing Thanks you a lot for you answers. You are very generous with answers. Definately going to buy stuff through your afiliate links. Hope you get the Tennis Warehouse Europe deal up and going. Is there a donate button to your TH-cam channel.?
Aloha Julien, Thanks for watching! I'm assuming you're referring to a starting clamp. If that is the case, I use the Yonex starting clamp, which is very pricey at $250. However, I would recommend you get a Babolat Red or Alpha Badminton starting for $70. Check out the video here - th-cam.com/video/5s6o_-MQePs/w-d-xo.html 🤙
@@juliengranier7565 I don't know if you read the video description, but if you live in the US, you can buy one directly from Babolat. Here's what the Sales & Support Specialist told me. Josh informed me that he is not aware of anyone in the US selling them individually, but Babolat can sell them to the public. Use this link to the Babolat site. The link is to a product information request form that will come to our help desk and be routed to him to complete the sale. help.babolat.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?ticket_form_id=360000196437
Thanks Albert...been waiting for this one , as I do a lot of ATWs. I can really notice the drawback on your new machine, as you discussed previously, tho clearly the clamps come back on the subsequent pull. would you consider repulling the spots where you leave the clamps slightly away from the frame, once the crosses are run in ? i really like the tension management with the second cross (from bottom) and intend to incorporate that into my Univ and SS ATW patterns. as well. Thanks again !
Aloha Ralph, Yes, the drawback is more noticeable on this machine because of the high distance from the string clamp rail to the string bed. It's about 8.5", which is much higher than most other machines. On the subsequent pull, it does recover 2-3mm of the initial drawback. I wouldn't want to double-pull any strings since that would probably lead to more inconsistencies in the final string job. In comparison to my Prince P7000, I've been getting consistent RDC and ERT300 readings throughout my first 100 racquets. REMEMBER FOR THE 2ND TO LAST CROSS STRING: OPPOSITE weave for ODD cross strings EXACTLY SAME weave for EVEN cross strings. 😆
Aloha Roy, A common string is a main string that both cross strings have to go over or under when weaving. In other words, it's usually not the first outer main string since both cross strings may not have to be weaved over or under it. I hope this clarifies. In the worst-case scenario, if you weave the bottom cross incorrectly, you'll understand what I mean. Hopefully, that won't be the case. 🤙
The short side always completes all the mains except for the last one plus the top 2 or 3 crosses. In this case, there were 7 mains and two top crosses. Then finish all mains and the rest of the crosses with the long side. 🤙
Since I installed and tensioned the second-to-last cross string at the bottom, whenever the top cross matches the same weave (under and over), it causes a "hard weave." This is because there are two strings on each side that are woven opposite (under and over) the string being woven. This is the best way I can describe this, but it might be easier to understand when you're actually doing it yourself. 🤙
Thanks for the great video. I’m a stringer for UCLA and I help weight rackets. However we don’t have a swingweight machine. What’s the best way to match rackets after customization if I only have access to static weight and balance?
Aloha Jerry, Thanks for watching this video! If your school can invest in a swingweight machine like this one, that would be your best bet. * Prince Swingweight Machine ($1,299) www.tennismachines.com/store/Prince-Swingweight-Machine-p494864419 If your school is not willing to spend that much, you could get the Briffidi SW1 Swingweight Machine for $249. * www.briffidi.com/product/sw1/ I featured this machine in this video. It is very accurate. th-cam.com/video/xvPuRMZ8rEU/w-d-xo.html As a last resort, you could use the Tennis Warehouse DIY that was featured in the same video. However, if you have to do a bunch of racquets, this method is time-consuming. One last option, if your school wants to buy my Briffidi SW1, I can sell it for $175 plus shipping. I'm guessing USPS would be about $35. I used mainly it for the purpose of producing the video, so it's hardly been used. 🤙
@@AMstringing The one I am thinking about is called: Prince Classic Graphite 100. Can all patterns use this ATW.? I have realised that the cheaper rackets only have possibility for 1 string stringing.
@@benjaminjensen111 If a racquet can be strung as a "natural 1-piece," then there is no need to use the ATW. The ATW is primarily used when the last main string ends at the throat, which means the racquet is not a natural 1-piece. Since the last main string on the Classic Graphite 100 ends at the throat, it would be possible to string ATW. I hope this makes sense. 🤙
@@benjaminjensen111 The main purpose of using the ATW is to string a racquet 1-piece whenever the string pattern is not a natural 1-piece, and for allowing the crosses to be installed from top to bottom. 🤙
From a contruction perspective I really cant understand why the racket should be strongest at the throat/yoke. As it is a uniform eleptical bend in the top, like a bridge or door and actually getting reinforced by the strings as the strings pull in towards the middle. it should from start with no strings be the strongest part also bc there is no fusioning of other parts but just one long bend that in principle gets "tied" all the way back at the handle. I think I can put much more force on the top of the hoop unstrung then at the throat/yoke. I think this should be examined more. I bought a Babolat Pure Strike 98 and a Babolat Boost Aero.... two different class of rackets...both graphite...and both came prestrung 2-piece from factory with the mains tied at top and the cross started in at the throat. Also I strung a cheap no name graphite racket with 25 kg poly and the place it cracked/splitted was at the throat/yoke only doing mains. Becasue the cross strings actually reinforce the hoop half way done it should be then said to why start at top for cross.... that is makes the least pressure to the throat/yoke area when finishing off because of the support it gets from the cross stringing... down from the top.
Aloha Benjamin, The strongest part of the hoop is the bottom since it is supported by the yoke. As you install cross strings, the stress that’s added to the frame follows the direction of the weave. Therefore, weaving toward the yoke ensures the stress is directed toward the stronger part of the hoop. There are some pre-strung racquets (usually cheaper models) that are strung 1-piece where the cross strings are installed from bottom to top. You'll find some Babolat, Head, and Wilson racquets that recommend both methods of cross-string installation. You'll rarely see it on a Prince racquet and never on a Yonex racquet. 🤙
@@AMstringing Yes I read and see and hear this a lot. That the racket is stronger at the bottom bc its reinforced by the yoke/bridge. But I think not. I think the bridge/yoke that is attached/glued on to 2 ends by resins to the long bended piece of graphite, is a weaker point than the top of the hoop. heres my reasoning: If the whole hoop of a tennis racket is of uniform thickness throughout and is oval/egg-shaped, it generally has better structural integrity at the top. The one-piece construction at the top can provide more strength and resistance to bending and breaking compared to the bottom area, which is connected at two ends by the bridge/yoke. When pressure is applied evenly to both the top and bottom, the top part may withstand more stress before failing because the continuous shape distributes force more efficiently. In contrast, the yoke/bridge area may have slightly less strength due to the joint connection and potential weak points at the ends. So, given the same thickness, the top of the hoop is likely to be stronger than the yoke/bridge area. However, the actual failure point can depend on various factors, including the specific construction materials and design of the racket. So we should string from bottom up if the thing is that the stress become more and more as we go ahead and string more and more cross. But also this do not make sense to me as the cross strings also reinforce and holds the frame of the racket as we move along and string the cross bc the pressure is from out to in and we are dealing with a eliptical/round shape were the structure becomes stronger as force is aplied form outside and in. The machine holding arms also pressure from outside in on 4 points. the more crosses you put in the more this help with the structural integrity of the racket.
@@AMstringing When you tie your shoelace the pressure/stress do not get more as you go and is near the top/end. The stress gets less and less as you near the end as more and more of the lace is taking and destributing more of the force.
@@AMstringing When the cross strings are pulled tight, they exert lateral forces from outside in on the oval/round racket frame, yes? which helps to strenghten and stabilize it and can prevent deformation during play and thus during stringin also, yes?. So I think its best to start at strongest point (top) and end in the weakest (yoke). And if hoop is strongest at top bc its one piece of tube. then the reassoning for stringing from top to bottom is opposite of what is said by many. Start at strong point (top) and finish at structural weakpoint (yoke/bridge.)
![Racquet Stringing [Natural Gut Stringing Tips & Techniques]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TnrSyRxusPQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Racquet Stringing [Natural Gut Stringing Tips & Techniques]](/img/tr.png)
![Racquet Stringing [Starting Main Strings | 5 Methods]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4Fy46Axh3is/mqdefault.jpg)
![Racquet Stringing [3 Top Tie-Off Knots]](/img/n.gif)
I like that you say to the viewers:
"You have watched alot of videos already and this is my take on it".
And then you nail it and make the others look like amateurs.
Aloha Benjamin,
The bottom line - there is no right way or a wrong way, but there are better ways. 👍
Do you have a video on two pieces around the world?
Aloha, I don't know if you realize that the purpose of stringing with the Around-the-World method is to use only one piece of string. 😃
As always, an excellent video! As a self taught garage stringer, I saw a lot of pro level tips and techinques in your ATW pattern to absorb, hopefully retain, and eventually apply. As a low volume stringer, I've wondered previously if using the ATW pattern was worth the time involved and complications but seeing how quickly and easily you strung the racquet, it's clear that, once familiar with the pattern, it goes as fast as the usual one piece but without the unequal tension in the outer M's and X's. BTW--I was happy to see that I'm not the only one to toss racquets when trying to spin them.....
R Jacobson
Aloha Robert,
To be honest, if you stick to the traditional 2-piece stringing, top to bottom, you can't go wrong there. The ATW technique is not a "must-do" for low or high-volume stringers. It's something that I like to do as one of my stringing signatures that I can call my own.
Just thought I would share my technique with you guys! 🤙
I notice that your clamps are often quite far away from the grommets, doesn't that lead to tension loss? I always try to clamp very close to the grommets for minimum slack on the pull-around on the next string
Aloha Uchiha,
Yes, you are correct that positioning your string clamp as close to the grommet is recommended.
However, there are three situations where I typically will not do that.
1) When clamping a main string and allowing extra space for the cross string to be installed next.
2) When the clamp is blocked by one of the side support arms. On my machine, they are at 2:00, 4:00, 8:00, and 10:00.
3) I can't always position the string clamp flush with the grommets on the cross strings. If you notice, my string clamps have three wide teeth and sometimes they will not fit perfectly into the gaps created by the mains and crosses. If that's the case, I'll position the string clamp inwards (toward the center of the string bed) to fit it perfectly with those gaps. I hope that makes sense. 😃
Thanks for this.
Aloha Guido, Thank you for checking this out!🤙
How would you do ATW with poly strings and or textured poly strings?
Aloha Johnny,
I recommend NOT using the ATW for polyester strings, especially if they are shaped or textured. Its stiff nature causes more friction and notching than nylon or natural gut.
I recommend a 2-piece method using the one-ahead technique with a small loop. 🤙
th-cam.com/video/UBtKrWg3E9o/w-d-xo.html
Be careful could be confusing!!!! For me the top String weave to the bottom string weave in Even is the Opposite and in Odd is the Same
Aloha Ruben,
Yes, you're correct! I'm curious . . . Is your last tie-off string the second to the last cross string? 🤙
If a racket is considered irratic at ball impact in the upper hoop of the frame.... like the Pure Strike VS 2022. Would it benefit to string the cross from bottom up?
is it the frame that is too stiff or too soft in the upper hoop that causes the irratic feeling.... can that be solved by stringing in a certain way or compensated with tension or by stringing cross from down up?
Maybe an idea for a video?
Aloha Benjamin,
I don't believe it has anything to do with the way the racquet is strung, although the top-to-bottom method is the preferred method due to the stress placed on the head and to maintain the structural integrity of the frame. If anything, you can try adding weight to the head at the 2:00/10:00 locations to enhance stability and power. 🤙
@@AMstringing
Hi. I thought the strings also helped with the structural integrity of frame as you move along stringing, as the pressure from inside out from the strings, just like the support arms do. One could argue that the strongest part of the frame is where you start and not end as the stress would be greatest in the start and less as the more strings are put in the cross bc cross acts as support as you string. I would think that the first couple of crosses are the ones causing most stress to the structure until they start acting as support. What do you think?
Maybe I should try actually string the VS from bottom up as a way of tightening up the top, as the zip effect will shorten the top more starting from buttom/yoke.
Tecnifibres tech with ISO, they actually makes the short strings more tight and the long strings less tight in order to make the stringbed more consostent and sweetspot larger. That is kinda counterintuitive logically but the idea is to make the short strings move more bc of being more squeezed/ have less frame flex... I guess.
@@benjaminjensen111 In my opinion, all the main strings cause most of the stress to the head. This is why it's important to tighten the 12:00 and 6:00 billiards snug but not too tight; otherwise, they can crack (hairline) the inside of the frame. During the main string installation, the frame will distort or become slightly "rounder." As the crosses are installed, the distortion will undo itself as the tension brings the frame back to normal. Here are a couple of videos that cover this occurrence. 🤙
th-cam.com/video/5Rkq5uMAKJY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/iyK5dWTr1bQ/w-d-xo.html
@@AMstringing Make sense as the 6 point support of my Dropweight (Premium 3000) gets loser at the 6 and 12 inside frame support, when stringing the crosses and needs tightening every 3 cross. I guees the expensive machines do not have this "problem"
@@AMstringing Thanks you a lot for you answers. You are very generous with answers. Definately going to buy stuff through your afiliate links. Hope you get the Tennis Warehouse Europe deal up and going. Is there a donate button to your TH-cam channel.?
Hi Man, great video!
I would like to know what flying clamp you used? and also which flying clamp do you recommend?
Have a Nice day
Aloha Julien, Thanks for watching! I'm assuming you're referring to a starting clamp. If that is the case, I use the Yonex starting clamp, which is very pricey at $250. However, I would recommend you get a Babolat Red or Alpha Badminton starting for $70. Check out the video here - th-cam.com/video/5s6o_-MQePs/w-d-xo.html 🤙
@@AMstringing Hi ! Thanks for your advice, i’ll look for the babolat red👍🏻
@@juliengranier7565 I don't know if you read the video description, but if you live in the US, you can buy one directly from Babolat. Here's what the Sales & Support Specialist told me.
Josh informed me that he is not aware of anyone in the US selling them individually, but Babolat can sell them to the public. Use this link to the Babolat site. The link is to a product information request form that will come to our help desk and be routed to him to complete the sale.
help.babolat.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?ticket_form_id=360000196437
Thanks Albert...been waiting for this one , as I do a lot of ATWs. I can really notice the drawback on your new machine, as you discussed previously, tho clearly the clamps come back on the subsequent pull. would you consider repulling the spots where you leave the clamps slightly away from the frame, once the crosses are run in ? i really like the tension management with the second cross (from bottom) and intend to incorporate that into my Univ and SS ATW patterns. as well. Thanks again !
Aloha Ralph,
Yes, the drawback is more noticeable on this machine because of the high distance from the string clamp rail to the string bed. It's about 8.5", which is much higher than most other machines. On the subsequent pull, it does recover 2-3mm of the initial drawback. I wouldn't want to double-pull any strings since that would probably lead to more inconsistencies in the final string job.
In comparison to my Prince P7000, I've been getting consistent RDC and ERT300 readings throughout my first 100 racquets.
REMEMBER FOR THE 2ND TO LAST CROSS STRING:
OPPOSITE weave for ODD cross strings
EXACTLY SAME weave for EVEN cross strings. 😆
Hi, how do you define a common string?
Aloha Roy,
A common string is a main string that both cross strings have to go over or under when weaving. In other words, it's usually not the first outer main string since both cross strings may not have to be weaved over or under it. I hope this clarifies.
In the worst-case scenario, if you weave the bottom cross incorrectly, you'll understand what I mean. Hopefully, that won't be the case. 🤙
@@AMstringing thanks for this, I understand now🤗🤗🤗👍
👍
You stop at 6 mains on short side and then you finish all 8 mains on the long side?
The short side always completes all the mains except for the last one plus the top 2 or 3 crosses. In this case, there were 7 mains and two top crosses.
Then finish all mains and the rest of the crosses with the long side. 🤙
Hi. So why is it a easy weave and a hard weave? what makes it that? I couldnt understand it from the video.
Since I installed and tensioned the second-to-last cross string at the bottom, whenever the top cross matches the same weave (under and over), it causes a "hard weave." This is because there are two strings on each side that are woven opposite (under and over) the string being woven. This is the best way I can describe this, but it might be easier to understand when you're actually doing it yourself. 🤙
Thanks for the great video. I’m a stringer for UCLA and I help weight rackets. However we don’t have a swingweight machine. What’s the best way to match rackets after customization if I only have access to static weight and balance?
Aloha Jerry, Thanks for watching this video!
If your school can invest in a swingweight machine like this one, that would be your best bet.
* Prince Swingweight Machine ($1,299)
www.tennismachines.com/store/Prince-Swingweight-Machine-p494864419
If your school is not willing to spend that much, you could get the Briffidi SW1 Swingweight Machine for $249.
* www.briffidi.com/product/sw1/
I featured this machine in this video. It is very accurate. th-cam.com/video/xvPuRMZ8rEU/w-d-xo.html
As a last resort, you could use the Tennis Warehouse DIY that was featured in the same video. However, if you have to do a bunch of racquets, this method is time-consuming.
One last option, if your school wants to buy my Briffidi SW1, I can sell it for $175 plus shipping. I'm guessing USPS would be about $35. I used mainly it for the purpose of producing the video, so it's hardly been used. 🤙
Name idea pitch for stringing service.
'Loopa Strings'. "We do da loop"
🤣
The Prince Classic is 16 x 18. Is it the same technique for any pattern?
Aloha Benjamin, Are you referring to the original aluminum Prince Classic 110? If so, the string pattern is 16x19 and can be strung 1-piece. 🤙
@@AMstringing
The one I am thinking about is called: Prince
Classic Graphite 100.
Can all patterns use this ATW.?
I have realised that the cheaper rackets only have possibility for 1 string stringing.
@@benjaminjensen111 If a racquet can be strung as a "natural 1-piece," then there is no need to use the ATW. The ATW is primarily used when the last main string ends at the throat, which means the racquet is not a natural 1-piece.
Since the last main string on the Classic Graphite 100 ends at the throat, it would be possible to string ATW.
I hope this makes sense. 🤙
@@AMstringing Ok.
Whats the relation between string pattern and ATW and natural 1 piece?
@@benjaminjensen111 The main purpose of using the ATW is to string a racquet 1-piece whenever the string pattern is not a natural 1-piece, and for allowing the crosses to be installed from top to bottom. 🤙
From a contruction perspective I really cant understand why the racket should be strongest at the throat/yoke. As it is a uniform eleptical bend in the top, like a bridge or door and actually getting reinforced by the strings as the strings pull in towards the middle. it should from start with no strings be the strongest part also bc there is no fusioning of other parts but just one long bend that in principle gets "tied" all the way back at the handle. I think I can put much more force on the top of the hoop unstrung then at the throat/yoke. I think this should be examined more.
I bought a Babolat Pure Strike 98 and a Babolat Boost Aero.... two different class of rackets...both graphite...and both came prestrung 2-piece from factory with the mains tied at top and the cross started in at the throat.
Also I strung a cheap no name graphite racket with 25 kg poly and the place it cracked/splitted was at the throat/yoke only doing mains.
Becasue the cross strings actually reinforce the hoop half way done it should be then said to why start at top for cross.... that is makes the least pressure to the throat/yoke area when finishing off because of the support it gets from the cross stringing... down from the top.
Aloha Benjamin,
The strongest part of the hoop is the bottom since it is supported by the yoke. As you install cross strings, the stress that’s added to the frame follows the direction of the weave. Therefore, weaving toward the yoke ensures the stress is directed toward the stronger part of the hoop.
There are some pre-strung racquets (usually cheaper models) that are strung 1-piece where the cross strings are installed from bottom to top. You'll find some Babolat, Head, and Wilson racquets that recommend both methods of cross-string installation. You'll rarely see it on a Prince racquet and never on a Yonex racquet. 🤙
@@AMstringing Yes I read and see and hear this a lot. That the racket is stronger at the bottom bc its reinforced by the yoke/bridge.
But I think not. I think the bridge/yoke that is attached/glued on to 2 ends by resins to the long bended piece of graphite, is a weaker point than the top of the hoop.
heres my reasoning:
If the whole hoop of a tennis racket is of uniform thickness throughout and is oval/egg-shaped, it generally has better structural integrity at the top. The one-piece construction at the top can provide more strength and resistance to bending and breaking compared to the bottom area, which is connected at two ends by the bridge/yoke.
When pressure is applied evenly to both the top and bottom, the top part may withstand more stress before failing because the continuous shape distributes force more efficiently. In contrast, the yoke/bridge area may have slightly less strength due to the joint connection and potential weak points at the ends.
So, given the same thickness, the top of the hoop is likely to be stronger than the yoke/bridge area. However, the actual failure point can depend on various factors, including the specific construction materials and design of the racket.
So we should string from bottom up if the thing is that the stress become more and more as we go ahead and string more and more cross.
But also this do not make sense to me as the cross strings also reinforce and holds the frame of the racket as we move along and string the cross bc the pressure is from out to in and we are dealing with a eliptical/round shape were the structure becomes stronger as force is aplied form outside and in.
The machine holding arms also pressure from outside in on 4 points. the more crosses you put in the more this help with the structural integrity of the racket.
@@AMstringing When you tie your shoelace the pressure/stress do not get more as you go and is near the top/end. The stress gets less and less as you near the end as more and more of the lace is taking and destributing more of the force.
@@AMstringing When the cross strings are pulled tight, they exert lateral forces from outside in on the oval/round racket frame, yes? which helps to strenghten and stabilize it and can prevent deformation during play and thus during stringin also, yes?. So I think its best to start at strongest point (top) and end in the weakest (yoke).
And if hoop is strongest at top bc its one piece of tube. then the reassoning for stringing from top to bottom is opposite of what is said by many. Start at strong point (top) and finish at structural weakpoint (yoke/bridge.)