I’ve never seen a YT project that involved as much engineering and CAD design as this one. It’s like watching what goes on in the engineering department of one of the big automakers but the whole engineering department is just one person.
@@Mikecom32 I followed that series for a long time. Those guys were fantastic and were excellent machinists in their own right. Everything was way over engineered. How many hours did they spend on the windshield wiper assembly alone.
Still working my way through the series. I love your problem solving steps. And can truly appreciate that tons of hours it takes to research all those parts and figure out what works together.
Most scanning software allows scanning from 2 positions and then you can join them for a seamless scan. You can also do a remesh using quads which allows higher fidelity with a lower file size
@@npvg your solutions have gotten you this far. I’m not if the car will even operate without whatever signal it gets from that module. People get upset over different manufacturers parts on cars, like nobody ever put a Cadillac motor in a T bucket or a 9 in rear under a Camaro. Just keep doing what you’re doing. If it were easy everyone would do it.
I’ve just binge watched the whole project to this point over the past few days. The fact that the unibody clears a CV so well while only modifying the subframe makes me think this whole thing, with some development, could be a kit. Very exciting prospect. You may have answered this on one of the earlier videos, but do you expect to integrate transfer case control into the Mustang body/engine controls or will it be stand-alone? I’ve been surprised by how easy you made it look to adjust parameters like gear ratios, but I have to imagine adding a function like transfer case PWM into the traction control strategy could be a lot more complicated.
@12:00 Toyota Prius power steering assist uses a motor on the steering shaft rather than on the rack. Might switching to a manual rack with the toyota steering shaft give you the space you need?
I am concerned about the car freaking out if the current electronic rack is not plugged in. Otherwise I seriously considered switching to a hydraulic rack, which would probably have better feedback.
It is very likely that it will affect it. Will it be a big deal is the question. I can make offset inner tie rod mounts if it becomes a problem, like what some drift cars use.
What about replacing that steering rack with one that puts the motor inline with the steering shaft itself? You could get a smaller rack and pinion without all extras inside and have more placement options for the motor itself.
I would go hydraulic before that. But, the real reason is that I am concerned about the car's ECM freaking out if there is not a electric rack to talk to.
@@npvg Makes sense. I'm kinda over chasing hydraulic leaks at this point😅 Figuring out how to plan around the electric booster has me spooked. Your build is definitely inspirational. I'm glad to be here for the ride.
Get in touch with power by the hour and Lund Racing for your tune. They do thousands of swap cars. They can advise you on keeping the electronics happy.
I've got a stock 2016 k member if you need one. Left over from a steeda k member upgrade. I bet you could get the steeda cad drawing if you wanted to try it instead!
I just started watching this series, very very interesting. I would like to cut my own splines and involute splines, could you maybe help me find where you purchased tooling? I have some ideas for other projects but shafts are constantly an issue.
I am using tooling from Advent tool. adventtoolusa.com/ I can be more exact if you need me to. But, basically you need to buy a holder and then determine what insert you need for the exact spline you are making. The holder is about $200 and the inserts are about $50, but they seem to last a long time. Let me know if you need more help.
@8:50 - I'm concerned that your proposed jack-shaft location is dangerously close to your #2 and #6 connecting rod caps. Are you sure it's going to clear the full range of rotation? I think it might be a good idea to 3D print a modular fixture to place on the block's oil pan mating surface to take measurements. Or maybe just lay some 1-2-3 blocks on the surface and lay a straight edge across.
This is a legitimate concern. You are absolutely correct, the cross tube for the jack shaft is going to be directly below the crank through. I basically did what you are suggesting and if I did everything correctly, I should about 0.100 inches of clearance to the rod bolts. Common internet wisdom suggest .08 is enough.
Any reason why you haven't just adapted a 5.7 hemi AWD Hemi oil pan, diff, and rack to fit? I imagine you could cut the top of the pan off and and weld in a new mounting surface for the ford block. A police dodge charger AWD Hemi would be a perfect donor.
The simple answer is I want to try and keep the Mustang front suspension geometry. The longer answer is that the Charger front diff is sort of an odd ball and there are not a lot of gears ratios or limited slips available for it. In the Chrysler applications, they are all 3.07, which is not good for a manual transmission.
I’ve never seen a YT project that involved as much engineering and CAD design as this one. It’s like watching what goes on in the engineering department of one of the big automakers but the whole engineering department is just one person.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment. I am trying to explain the design process and how it isn't always very obvious.
So exceptional .
Well built. Well done.
Masterly explain .
Merci.
@@Mikecom32 I followed that series for a long time. Those guys were fantastic and were excellent machinists in their own right. Everything was way over engineered. How many hours did they spend on the windshield wiper assembly alone.
Still working my way through the series. I love your problem solving steps. And can truly appreciate that tons of hours it takes to research all those parts and figure out what works together.
Good oil pan situation would actually be a dry sump system
Most scanning software allows scanning from 2 positions and then you can join them for a seamless scan. You can also do a remesh using quads which allows higher fidelity with a lower file size
Another great video. I appreciate all the time spent producing them.
Every engineer is like let me redesign everything so this rack will fit, every mechanic is like put a manual rack in it and lets go. Great videos!
I am not going to lie, the thought of going hydraulic power steering did cross my mind. But, don't know how the computer would react.
@@npvg your solutions have gotten you this far. I’m not if the car will even operate without whatever signal it gets from that module. People get upset over different manufacturers parts on cars, like nobody ever put a Cadillac motor in a T bucket or a 9 in rear under a Camaro. Just keep doing what you’re doing. If it were easy everyone would do it.
I’ve just binge watched the whole project to this point over the past few days. The fact that the unibody clears a CV so well while only modifying the subframe makes me think this whole thing, with some development, could be a kit. Very exciting prospect.
You may have answered this on one of the earlier videos, but do you expect to integrate transfer case control into the Mustang body/engine controls or will it be stand-alone? I’ve been surprised by how easy you made it look to adjust parameters like gear ratios, but I have to imagine adding a function like transfer case PWM into the traction control strategy could be a lot more complicated.
I am going to use a stand alone controller for the transfer case. There are several that are available.
Maybe a tubular k member will help.
If I make one from scratch it would. I don't see the point of spending $1000 for a k-member just to cut a bunch of it off.
@12:00 Toyota Prius power steering assist uses a motor on the steering shaft rather than on the rack. Might switching to a manual rack with the toyota steering shaft give you the space you need?
I am concerned about the car freaking out if the current electronic rack is not plugged in. Otherwise I seriously considered switching to a hydraulic rack, which would probably have better feedback.
Can't wait to see this thing launch.
100th like! Awesome progress.
Thanks, I am starting to thrash to get it on the wheels.
@@npvg when this gets finished you will blow up! You will have so many requests of how you did this. I can't wait till people see what you can do.
I suspect there might be some double U-Joint Borgesons in your future
I don't think so actually, I will just have to make a small extension.
Awrsome video series, I look sooo forward to new video drops! Thank you for your hard work, I appreciate your skills 👍🏼
Thanks!
Moving the rack forward or backwards is going to dramatically change your Ackerman as well
It is very likely that it will affect it. Will it be a big deal is the question. I can make offset inner tie rod mounts if it becomes a problem, like what some drift cars use.
@@npvg as a drifter and suspension guru I know it will. Ran into the same problem with my RWD fusion and changing the ball joint position.
At 1:30 you said "the STL file is then symplified ..." how didyoudo that? What software did you use?
What about replacing that steering rack with one that puts the motor inline with the steering shaft itself? You could get a smaller rack and pinion without all extras inside and have more placement options for the motor itself.
I would go hydraulic before that. But, the real reason is that I am concerned about the car's ECM freaking out if there is not a electric rack to talk to.
@@npvg Makes sense. I'm kinda over chasing hydraulic leaks at this point😅 Figuring out how to plan around the electric booster has me spooked.
Your build is definitely inspirational. I'm glad to be here for the ride.
Get in touch with power by the hour and Lund Racing for your tune. They do thousands of swap cars. They can advise you on keeping the electronics happy.
I can get you an Ngauge if you go that route. Best device ever made for factory ECU tuning.
So awesome woohoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've got a stock 2016 k member if you need one. Left over from a steeda k member upgrade. I bet you could get the steeda cad drawing if you wanted to try it instead!
Where are you located?
@@npvg Southeast Washington near Hanford nuclear facility
How much time its gonna take i cant wait 😅
I am trying to get it on the wheels again in July.
Cut, angle and re-weld the steering input on the steering rack?
I don’t quite understand what you are suggesting? Can you elaborate?
Have you thought about a manual rack with a column assisted power steering? Like a Prius?
I just started watching this series, very very interesting. I would like to cut my own splines and involute splines, could you maybe help me find where you purchased tooling? I have some ideas for other projects but shafts are constantly an issue.
I am using tooling from Advent tool.
adventtoolusa.com/
I can be more exact if you need me to. But, basically you need to buy a holder and then determine what insert you need for the exact spline you are making. The holder is about $200 and the inserts are about $50, but they seem to last a long time. Let me know if you need more help.
You probably already know this, but you should really try to make the front CV shafts the same length :)
Looks good!
I haven’t watched the entire video… Hopefully he’s using an intermediate shaft to keep the cv shafts equal length.
Yes, my goal is to make them the same length.
@8:50 - I'm concerned that your proposed jack-shaft location is dangerously close to your #2 and #6 connecting rod caps. Are you sure it's going to clear the full range of rotation? I think it might be a good idea to 3D print a modular fixture to place on the block's oil pan mating surface to take measurements. Or maybe just lay some 1-2-3 blocks on the surface and lay a straight edge across.
This is a legitimate concern. You are absolutely correct, the cross tube for the jack shaft is going to be directly below the crank through. I basically did what you are suggesting and if I did everything correctly, I should about 0.100 inches of clearance to the rod bolts. Common internet wisdom suggest .08 is enough.
When you're doing all this, do you think back to the Merkur and wonder what it would have been like to have 3D printing?
3D printing and my own cnc mill😁
Any reason why you haven't just adapted a 5.7 hemi AWD Hemi oil pan, diff, and rack to fit? I imagine you could cut the top of the pan off and and weld in a new mounting surface for the ford block. A police dodge charger AWD Hemi would be a perfect donor.
The simple answer is I want to try and keep the Mustang front suspension geometry.
The longer answer is that the Charger front diff is sort of an odd ball and there are not a lot of gears ratios or limited slips available for it. In the Chrysler applications, they are all 3.07, which is not good for a manual transmission.
Well said
Dumb question, but why not swap the rack for a fluid power steering rack and use an electric power steering pump?
I am concerned the car will freak out if the electric rack is not plugged in. I am not sure it can be turned off with Forscan?