Best explanation I've seen. As an old school rider, I apply the rear and front almost at the same time when looking for maximum stopping. I learned to ride on the dirt where front brakes can get you in trouble on very loose surfaces . Thanks !
Have 2006 and 2018 Honda 1800 both of them triked. 300,000+ on 2006 and 29,000+ on 2018.I find that the 2018 in an emergency stop using back brakes wants to nosedive making it very unstable especially going down sharp hills on windy roads.The 06 could be controlled much better using both front and back brakes simultaneously. Is there a way to have more breaking power go to the rear as that is where most of the weight and rubber is anyway? I am and always been a very aggressive rider. This new system is great on 3 wheelers but not so on trikes. Thanks
Compared to my old Yamaha XV 1000, these brakes are amazing. It took some time to get used to how hard the fronts grab and slow you down, but wow, after a few rides the muscle memory kicked in. Love how you hear the drilled rotors sing under heavy braking when a traffic light changes and you know that guy will turn left in front of you! Honda did an amazing job.
Max, love your products...I own several. The belly pan is pure genius. I would ask that you revisit this video though, and take a look at page 1-115 in the service manual. The rear is applied with the front lever, the ABS unit pump sends it back there when it senses the front being applied.
It's on different pages depending on year of service manual, below is what it says in short, bottom line is the rear brake IS activated with the front brake lever: The recirculation-type Combined Braking Anti-lock Braking System (C-ABS) allows shifting of the CBS (brake pressure boost) characteristics according to the selected ride mode. The CBS characteristics are shifted using Controller Area Network (CAN) communication among the riding mode switch, the ABS modulator control unit, and the display panel. As front brake lever movement is detected, the pump in the ABS modulator starts to feed brake fluid from the master cylinder to the calipers (pressure boost), and activates the rear brake. The CBS characteristics in SPORT ride mode are set to produce an appropriate rear brake force different from the other ride modes. The CBS in the rear brake system is a conventional system as shown in the picture without any brake pressure boost by the ABS modulator.
Back in 09, when I bought a Concours 14, I was amazed at the phenomenal brakes on such a heavy bike. I thought it couldn't get any better than that, and was fully expecting My 18 Wing to feel wimpy by comparison. I gotta say, the brakes on My Wing are also pretty awe inspiring. I had never owned a bike with linked brakes, and I'd heard the owners of 2010 or newer Concours14s complain about the linked brakes on those. Honda definitely got it right on the new Wing.
My Concours had the sensation of warped rotors almost immediately. The linked braking proved even more annoying because the use of the rear brake alone wouldn't avoid the pulsation from the front. Kawasaki fixed the problem in kind of a funny way. They authorized replacement of the rotors, but not the pads. The bike began doing it with less than 5000 miles. I live in Iowa and have little need for heavy brake usage so the problem did not arise again until my trip out west the following year. Since my dealership was about 100 miles away, I simply put up with it. In Iowa, it wasn't too big of a problem. Several years later, I had the wheels off for tires. The rotors had been installed out of phase so the carriers were not symmetrical. I removed one side to clock it to match the other. I also loosened the bolts on the other rotor and torqued everything up evenly using a crisscross pattern. Kawasaki used a plastic shim between the wheel and the rotor, probably to fight vibration. To my surprise, the pulsing was gone. Apparently the dealership did not install the rotors correctly when they replaced them under warranty. Even torque was very important. I wonder if Kawasaki might have done it from the factory. We take it for granted that manufacturers and techs do the job right the first time. Sometimes that is not the case.
This explains why as a first time, 5th Generation, Goldwing owner, I haven’t been impressed with the braking power. All my life I’ve always depressed the front and rear pedals simultaneously for maximum braking efficiency. Turns out, I need to be applying the rear brakes first and then add the front brakes a second later to achieve maximum braking power. Good to know, but yes, now I have to essentially relearn how to brake just because it’s a Goldwing. Thanks Honda.
I would've liked to see them have the 1 center piston on the rear be linked to the front so that you get some rear braking as well for those that forget to use both front and rear in a panic situation or even just in normal stopping situation were some people never use the rear brake at all.
Then the 2001-17 bike might be preferable to you, as it does those things. Making the brake system work for unskilled drivers who don't take the time to learn how to operate the machine they are on is the entire reason linked brakes exist, as noted here. If people would just be properly trained, none of this would exist... and there would be no such thing as a panic situation; Just an emergency situation with a skilled rider doing as much as possible to minimize any possible incident. You only panic when you don't know what to do.
I always try to use both brakes for any kind of braking. Even trail braking. Because I want to build in the habit of using both for an emergency stop. I caught myself a couple years ago only using the front brake during an emergency stop for a deer. I would have stopped shorter obviously had I used both.
Moto Guzzi introduced a linked system( 1975) when Honda had only just released the GW on the market. It would take decades before Honda introduced theirs
Hi Max. I tow fully loaded and two up with my 2004 and I've never felt the bike was underbraked which is not to say I'd turned down more powerful brakes. At 60 I'm also a traditional front brake rider. The 2001-2017 system is mentally complicated but really that's because of the stupid anti-dive, which I've shimmed on mine to make it ineffective (after watching your video). Surely, the straightforward comparison is that on the 2001-2017 bike the front brake lever gives you 5 of the 6 front pistons and 1 of the 3 rear pistons whilst the rear brake pedal gives you 2 rear pistons and 1 front piston. I'd call that a front loaded system with a little rear stability thrown in for free on the front brake. As you explain, the 2018+ bike operates 4 of the 6 front pistons, and that's it, whilst the rear brake pedal operates all 3 rear pistons and 2 front pistons. That's a lot of front braking on the rear brake and sometimes you just want the rear brake. It's great that the 2018+ bike comes with more powerful brakes but I think you're being harsh suggesting that the 2001-2017 doesn't allow the bike to be ridden in the traditional front brake way. More importantly, when is Traxxion Dynamics going to open up here in the UK? Please, please.
Hi Michael! I am not sure where you got your explanation of the brake system on the 2001-17, but it's way off. I have thought about doing a video on that to explain that monstrosity. The front brake gives you 2 pistons on RF caliper, one on LF caliper. That one activates the secondary master cylinder on the left fork, and gives you 2 pistons on the rear brake. The rear is Much more complex... I'll do a video. I have a knowledgeable agent in the UK, Gareth Evans at Reactive Suspension!!! I don't hear from him much, but he's a great guy!
@@Traxxion Hi Max. I've found the diagram that you're referring to which I gather is the right one. My explanation came from the GL1800A Service Manual! Good old Honda. When Honda incorporate all your improvements in the 2018+ and go back to a bigger fairing and luggage, I'll buy one. Keep the videos coming, great work.
so i have a 2021 gold wing (6th gen) manual clutch .. shortly after i purchased it i noticed the an excessive amount of recoil in the front brake on my hand...i know according to the manual there can be some recoil but this was almost to lock up of the front wheel but once you let the break go the brakes would release ..did not happen all the time but only when the bike went 5 to 10 miles on the highway. at that point when you got off the highway and started to break this excessive recoil began ..honda said to change the break fluid..we did and didnt help...2nd they said to do a back bleed which was done as it was believed to have an air bubble somewhere in the system..i noticed the brake lever was not as stiff and seemed to correct the problem ..a year later the front brake is somewhat stiff again and the same thing is happening... no lights no anti- lock feel happening..i know that the next thing honda was going to do under warranty was a front master cylinder replacement... in the city this dont happen only after coming off the highway after 5 to 10 miles at highway speed...any ideas ... is it me ?? does it sound like the bike...
No idea on this... you should continue to push the dealer to fix this. It could be unsafe or dangerous. I really don't know. You might post on the gl1800riders.com forums and see if anyone else has dealt with this problem.
Hey Max....love this video! One question I have is when moving under 10mph will the front brake still activate when only using the rear brake pedal? I'm having a hell of a time at slow-speed maneuvers, like U-turns. Thanks in advance!
To the best of my knowledge, it does. You must have a DCT... they require a completely new style of slow speed driving. You have to leave the throttle open slightly and then use the brakes to control speed, Iike you used to use the clutch to do.
Hi Max, just found this video. It's a great explanation, thanks so much for making it! I do have a follow-up question, though. As we know, using the front brake in a low-speed turn is never a good idea. I know that the linked brakes in my last Harley disengaged below 25 mph so that you didn't unintentionally engage the front brake in a u-turn. Does the new Wing have a similar capability, where the front brake engagement does not happen below a certain speed so that below that speed it's always rear brake only? Also, do the linked brakes function the same way in all four ride modes? Tia!
Hello Clay, There is no speed related change in braking function on any Goldwing... that I know of. I also don't know why you wouldn't use your front brake in a low speed turn. If yuou are driving a 2001-17 Goldwing and step on the rear pedal, you will actually be using about 65% front brake whether you like it or not. Using the front brake transfers the weight of your bike onto the front tire, pushing it harder against the ground, and IMPROVES your grip and traction. You car or truck does this same thing, automatically. Check out "proportioning valve" on the internet.
@@Traxxion Thanks for the reply! I may not have been clear about when to not use the front brake. I meant in u-turn speeds, not at road speed. I've always been taught, and recently, to never use the front brake at u-turn speeds, and to never use the front brake when stopping if the bars are turned. I've seen more than one rider drop their bike by grabbing the front brake at very slow speeds. Now, "grabbing" is certainly part of the problem in that case, but I'm still a believer in trailing rear brake only during u-turns. Looks like that's no longer possible.
I know this is about 2018+...but how should I be braking on a 2017 Goldwing with a sidecar? I am picking it up Friday and curious how things should be done with the older linked system. Thanks!
A couple of days ago while riding my manual shift MTC, I was the second vehicle back making a right turn after stopping. The car in front of me started to go then stopped quickly. I has just started to roll on my MTC, but had to stop quickly too. I used the front brakes to stop, no problem, but I did notice that I still had some throttle applied and had used the clutch to kill power to the rear wheel. Seams like I might have been in trouble if I was riding a DCT in the same situation (applying front brake with throttle still applied). Do you have any plans for making a left hand rear brake for the Goldwing DCT? This is a mod available for the African Twin DCT. With the right foot going down, controlling the throttle and front brake quickly is quite a hand full. Or does DCT require some other learned braking technique?
We have made a left hand brake kit for trike riders with some form of paralysis. But not for a normal 2 wheel rider. There is a technique you have to practice which is using the brakes to modulate speed instead of a clutch.... and you do have the throttle slightly open and held steady.
This video has some misleading comments about the 01 - 2017 system. Assuming that all components are in a good mechanical state and fluid added and bled and Traction fork springs and 15 wt fork oil installed and Anti Dive System disabled per Traxxion instructions THEN the system works amazingly well. Unfortunately, the description of the function is not easy to get since Honda and forums have it scattered all over the place together with wrong info. For instance to find out the fact that standing still the front level effects only front brakes and foot pedal effects both rear and front is almost impossible to find. And so on...
It was my understanding that either lever or pedal apply pressure to front and rear brakes. Perhaps lever 4 front pistons per caliper, 2 pistons rear Pedal 2 front pistons per and 4 rear. Please clarify
That is the old way that Honda linked brakes. There was also a master cylinder that the left front caliper worked on to activate the rear, I think. My VFR had brakes linked basically that way. My ST1300 has them linked that way.
Not quite that simple, right ? Aren’t you leaving out the fact the front brakes (lever) are linked to the rear brakes thru the CAN bus electronically ? Your description is the manual hydraulic part. Don’t skip the electro-hydraulic part. Honda would be remiss to link the front brakes with the rear.
This explanation is more than adequate for the required level of understanding even the most educated riders need. The problem with any brake linking is that it requires a comprehensive understanding of the system and applied practice, especially for highly skilled riders that know how to use the front brakes of an unlinked bike. They actually have to detrain themselves to ride like an unskilled rider who is afraid to use the front brakes. If Honda weren't to be "remiss", then they would build the bike with one single brake lever, and have it work both wheels exactly how every 4-wheeled vehicle on Earth does.
Hi Max, thanks for the brake system video. I’m really trying to understand the braking system especially in relation to slow control maneuvers. I ran across this source from Honda and it says the braking system is linked to the ride modes as well. What are your thoughts on slow control? I know it is a different animal and I continue to practice, which is the only way I will get better at it. hondanews.com/en-US/releases/2018-honda-gold-wing-tech-document?page_size=50&page=4
The link to the engine modes is nothing I've ever heard of, which means it play no noticeable role in any way, same as the suspension damping adjustment has no effect at all.
_"On the latest Gold Wing, the combined ABS settings are linked with the riding modes to automatically _*_adjust to braking characteristics ideal for the riding situation."_* It would be nice to know what they are talking about!
Here’s Honda’s explanation of the linked braking system on the modern Goldwing. In SPORT mode there is an initial bias to the rear brakes to reduce front end dive. global.honda/en/tech/Electronically_Controlled_Combined_ABS/ The front brake lever hydraulically controls the front brakes and electro/hydraulically links to the rear brakes at all times. The rear brake pedal electro/hydraulically links the rear and front brakes.
Good info. I assumed whether you applied the front brake or the rear brake, the brakes were linked and both would operate.. I am glad I watched this.
Best explanation I've seen. As an old school rider, I apply the rear and front almost at the same time when looking for maximum stopping. I learned to ride on the dirt where front brakes can get you in trouble on very loose surfaces . Thanks !
Have 2006 and 2018 Honda 1800 both of them triked. 300,000+ on 2006 and 29,000+ on 2018.I find that the 2018 in an emergency stop using back brakes wants to nosedive making it very unstable especially going down sharp hills on windy roads.The 06 could be controlled much better using both front and back brakes simultaneously. Is there a way to have more breaking power go to the rear as that is where most of the weight and rubber is anyway? I am and always been a very aggressive rider. This new system is great on 3 wheelers but not so on trikes. Thanks
Compared to my old Yamaha XV 1000, these brakes are amazing. It took some time to get used to how hard the fronts grab and slow you down, but wow, after a few rides the muscle memory kicked in. Love how you hear the drilled rotors sing under heavy braking when a traffic light changes and you know that guy will turn left in front of you! Honda did an amazing job.
Terrific Max 👍 I must say these brakes on my GW are probably the best of any bike I have ever owned.
Max, love your products...I own several. The belly pan is pure genius. I would ask that you revisit this video though, and take a look at page 1-115 in the service manual. The rear is applied with the front lever, the ABS unit pump sends it back there when it senses the front being applied.
It's on different pages depending on year of service manual, below is what it says in short, bottom line is the rear brake IS activated with the front brake lever:
The recirculation-type Combined Braking Anti-lock Braking System (C-ABS) allows shifting of the CBS (brake pressure boost) characteristics according to the selected ride mode. The CBS characteristics are shifted using Controller Area Network (CAN) communication among the riding mode switch, the ABS modulator control unit, and the display panel.
As front brake lever movement is detected, the pump in the ABS modulator starts to feed brake fluid from the master cylinder to the calipers (pressure boost), and activates the rear brake.
The CBS characteristics in SPORT ride mode are set to produce an appropriate rear brake force different from the other ride modes. The CBS in the rear brake system is a conventional system as shown in the picture without any brake pressure boost by the ABS modulator.
Back in 09, when I bought a Concours 14, I was amazed at the phenomenal brakes on such a heavy bike. I thought it couldn't get any better than that, and was fully expecting My 18 Wing to feel wimpy by comparison. I gotta say, the brakes on My Wing are also pretty awe inspiring. I had never owned a bike with linked brakes, and I'd heard the owners of 2010 or newer Concours14s complain about the linked brakes on those. Honda definitely got it right on the new Wing.
My Concours had the sensation of warped rotors almost immediately. The linked braking proved even more annoying because the use of the rear brake alone wouldn't avoid the pulsation from the front. Kawasaki fixed the problem in kind of a funny way. They authorized replacement of the rotors, but not the pads. The bike began doing it with less than 5000 miles. I live in Iowa and have little need for heavy brake usage so the problem did not arise again until my trip out west the following year. Since my dealership was about 100 miles away, I simply put up with it. In Iowa, it wasn't too big of a problem. Several years later, I had the wheels off for tires. The rotors had been installed out of phase so the carriers were not symmetrical. I removed one side to clock it to match the other. I also loosened the bolts on the other rotor and torqued everything up evenly using a crisscross pattern. Kawasaki used a plastic shim between the wheel and the rotor, probably to fight vibration. To my surprise, the pulsing was gone. Apparently the dealership did not install the rotors correctly when they replaced them under warranty. Even torque was very important. I wonder if Kawasaki might have done it from the factory. We take it for granted that manufacturers and techs do the job right the first time. Sometimes that is not the case.
Love these insights. Just ordered a 2022 wing tour. Looking forward to the Traxxion suspension.
We'll be glad to see you with your new bike!
This explains why as a first time, 5th Generation, Goldwing owner, I haven’t been impressed with the braking power. All my life I’ve always depressed the front and rear pedals simultaneously for maximum braking efficiency. Turns out, I need to be applying the rear brakes first and then add the front brakes a second later to achieve maximum braking power. Good to know, but yes, now I have to essentially relearn how to brake just because it’s a Goldwing. Thanks Honda.
Exactly...
Thanks, very helpful.
(Explanation starts ~2:54)
Glad it helped!
I would've liked to see them have the 1 center piston on the rear be linked to the front so that you get some rear braking as well for those that forget to use both front and rear in a panic situation or even just in normal stopping situation were some people never use the rear brake at all.
Then the 2001-17 bike might be preferable to you, as it does those things.
Making the brake system work for unskilled drivers who don't take the time to learn how to operate the machine they are on is the entire reason linked brakes exist, as noted here. If people would just be properly trained, none of this would exist... and there would be no such thing as a panic situation; Just an emergency situation with a skilled rider doing as much as possible to minimize any possible incident. You only panic when you don't know what to do.
I always try to use both brakes for any kind of braking. Even trail braking. Because I want to build in the habit of using both for an emergency stop. I caught myself a couple years ago only using the front brake during an emergency stop for a deer. I would have stopped shorter obviously had I used both.
Moto Guzzi introduced a linked system( 1975) when Honda had only just released the GW on the market. It would take decades before Honda introduced theirs
Hi Max. I tow fully loaded and two up with my 2004 and I've never felt the bike was underbraked which is not to say I'd turned down more powerful brakes. At 60 I'm also a traditional front brake rider. The 2001-2017 system is mentally complicated but really that's because of the stupid anti-dive, which I've shimmed on mine to make it ineffective (after watching your video). Surely, the straightforward comparison is that on the 2001-2017 bike the front brake lever gives you 5 of the 6 front pistons and 1 of the 3 rear pistons whilst the rear brake pedal gives you 2 rear pistons and 1 front piston. I'd call that a front loaded system with a little rear stability thrown in for free on the front brake. As you explain, the 2018+ bike operates 4 of the 6 front pistons, and that's it, whilst the rear brake pedal operates all 3 rear pistons and 2 front pistons. That's a lot of front braking on the rear brake and sometimes you just want the rear brake. It's great that the 2018+ bike comes with more powerful brakes but I think you're being harsh suggesting that the 2001-2017 doesn't allow the bike to be ridden in the traditional front brake way.
More importantly, when is Traxxion Dynamics going to open up here in the UK? Please, please.
Hi Michael! I am not sure where you got your explanation of the brake system on the 2001-17, but it's way off. I have thought about doing a video on that to explain that monstrosity. The front brake gives you 2 pistons on RF caliper, one on LF caliper. That one activates the secondary master cylinder on the left fork, and gives you 2 pistons on the rear brake. The rear is Much more complex... I'll do a video.
I have a knowledgeable agent in the UK, Gareth Evans at Reactive Suspension!!! I don't hear from him much, but he's a great guy!
Also, if you haven't ridden a 2018+ you simply won't believe how much Honda improved the brake system!
@@Traxxion Hi Max. I've found the diagram that you're referring to which I gather is the right one. My explanation came from the GL1800A Service Manual! Good old Honda.
When Honda incorporate all your improvements in the 2018+ and go back to a bigger fairing and luggage, I'll buy one. Keep the videos coming, great work.
so i have a 2021 gold wing (6th gen) manual clutch .. shortly after i purchased it i noticed the an excessive amount of recoil in the front brake on my hand...i know according to the manual there can be some recoil but this was almost to lock up of the front wheel but once you let the break go the brakes would release ..did not happen all the time but only when the bike went 5 to 10 miles on the highway. at that point when you got off the highway and started to break this excessive recoil began ..honda said to change the break fluid..we did and didnt help...2nd they said to do a back bleed which was done as it was believed to have an air bubble somewhere in the system..i noticed the brake lever was not as stiff and seemed to correct the problem ..a year later the front brake is somewhat stiff again and the same thing is happening... no lights no anti- lock feel happening..i know that the next thing honda was going to do under warranty was a front master cylinder replacement... in the city this dont happen only after coming off the highway after 5 to 10 miles at highway speed...any ideas ... is it me ?? does it sound like the bike...
No idea on this... you should continue to push the dealer to fix this. It could be unsafe or dangerous. I really don't know.
You might post on the gl1800riders.com forums and see if anyone else has dealt with this problem.
Thanks Max. Great information. Now that you showed the mechanical system, how about a video on how to properly brake the new Goldwing?
I would feel comfortable saying to just drive it like an ordinary bike!
Some of the weird things Honda does, it is good to see they got this one right.
Excellent explanation.
Hey Max....love this video!
One question I have is when moving under 10mph will the front brake still activate when only using the rear brake pedal?
I'm having a hell of a time at slow-speed maneuvers, like U-turns.
Thanks in advance!
To the best of my knowledge, it does. You must have a DCT... they require a completely new style of slow speed driving. You have to leave the throttle open slightly and then use the brakes to control speed, Iike you used to use the clutch to do.
Thanks for the information, Max.
It's my pleasure!
Hi Max, just found this video. It's a great explanation, thanks so much for making it! I do have a follow-up question, though. As we know, using the front brake in a low-speed turn is never a good idea. I know that the linked brakes in my last Harley disengaged below 25 mph so that you didn't unintentionally engage the front brake in a u-turn. Does the new Wing have a similar capability, where the front brake engagement does not happen below a certain speed so that below that speed it's always rear brake only? Also, do the linked brakes function the same way in all four ride modes?
Tia!
Hello Clay, There is no speed related change in braking function on any Goldwing... that I know of. I also don't know why you wouldn't use your front brake in a low speed turn.
If yuou are driving a 2001-17 Goldwing and step on the rear pedal, you will actually be using about 65% front brake whether you like it or not.
Using the front brake transfers the weight of your bike onto the front tire, pushing it harder against the ground, and IMPROVES your grip and traction.
You car or truck does this same thing, automatically. Check out "proportioning valve" on the internet.
@@Traxxion Thanks for the reply! I may not have been clear about when to not use the front brake. I meant in u-turn speeds, not at road speed. I've always been taught, and recently, to never use the front brake at u-turn speeds, and to never use the front brake when stopping if the bars are turned. I've seen more than one rider drop their bike by grabbing the front brake at very slow speeds. Now, "grabbing" is certainly part of the problem in that case, but I'm still a believer in trailing rear brake only during u-turns. Looks like that's no longer possible.
I know this is about 2018+...but how should I be braking on a 2017 Goldwing with a sidecar? I am picking it up Friday and curious how things should be done with the older linked system. Thanks!
It is much more rear brake pedal biased. You HAVE to use the rear brake pedal, 50/50 with the front lever.
@@Traxxion Thank you!
Good information, but please buy a tripod for your camera man.
So there's no way to do pure trail braking because applying the foot pedal applies some front brake 'whether the rider wants it or not.' ?
Correct! On every Goldwing since around 1988.
However, the 2001-2017 were the WORST. At least the 2018 is less "Idiot Oriented"...
A couple of days ago while riding my manual shift MTC, I was the second vehicle back making a right turn after stopping. The car in front of me started to go then stopped quickly. I has just started to roll on my MTC, but had to stop quickly too. I used the front brakes to stop, no problem, but I did notice that I still had some throttle applied and had used the clutch to kill power to the rear wheel.
Seams like I might have been in trouble if I was riding a DCT in the same situation (applying front brake with throttle still applied).
Do you have any plans for making a left hand rear brake for the Goldwing DCT? This is a mod available for the African Twin DCT. With the right foot going down, controlling the throttle and front brake quickly is quite a hand full.
Or does DCT require some other learned braking technique?
We have made a left hand brake kit for trike riders with some form of paralysis. But not for a normal 2 wheel rider. There is a technique you have to practice which is using the brakes to modulate speed instead of a clutch.... and you do have the throttle slightly open and held steady.
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
This video has some misleading comments about the 01 - 2017 system. Assuming that all components are in a good mechanical state and fluid added and bled and Traction fork springs and 15 wt fork oil installed and Anti Dive System disabled per Traxxion instructions THEN the system works amazingly well. Unfortunately, the description of the function is not easy to get since Honda and forums have it scattered all over the place together with wrong info. For instance to find out the fact that standing still the front level effects only front brakes and foot pedal effects both rear and front is almost impossible to find. And so on...
Let me know the importance of how a brake system works for a motorcycle that isn't moving.
The information in this video is completely accurate.
It was my understanding that either lever or pedal apply pressure to front and rear brakes.
Perhaps lever 4 front pistons per caliper, 2 pistons rear
Pedal 2 front pistons per and 4 rear.
Please clarify
There is nothing I can do to more clearly explain how the brakes work. There is even a color diagram. Sorry.
That is the old way that Honda linked brakes. There was also a master cylinder that the left front caliper worked on to activate the rear, I think. My VFR had brakes linked basically that way. My ST1300 has them linked that way.
@@alanhassall correct!
@@Traxxion That explanation was as crystal clear Max, superb job.
*Excellent!* new sub
Thanks!
Whats with all those boxes of the "Roll" exerciser thingies?
They are recovery devices for athletes. Muscle rollers, foot rollers
@@Traxxion Thanks.
Thx Max, Could you please explain the 2012 GL 1 832 System or refer me to link explaning same as you done but for 2001-2017 version thx
That would be a good topic for a video. I'll put that on my list. It's CRAZY how that whole system works.
@@Traxxion Thx again
There's only 3 Pistons on the rear caliper.
That's correct.
That's correct.
Not quite that simple, right ?
Aren’t you leaving out the fact the front brakes (lever) are linked to the rear brakes thru the CAN bus electronically ?
Your description is the manual hydraulic part. Don’t skip the electro-hydraulic part.
Honda would be remiss to link the front brakes with the rear.
Meant to say, Honda would be remiss NOT to link the front brakes with the rear.
Especially for panic / emergency stops.
This explanation is more than adequate for the required level of understanding even the most educated riders need.
The problem with any brake linking is that it requires a comprehensive understanding of the system and applied practice, especially for highly skilled riders that know how to use the front brakes of an unlinked bike. They actually have to detrain themselves to ride like an unskilled rider who is afraid to use the front brakes.
If Honda weren't to be "remiss", then they would build the bike with one single brake lever, and have it work both wheels exactly how every 4-wheeled vehicle on Earth does.
Hi Max, thanks for the brake system video. I’m really trying to understand the braking system especially in relation to slow control maneuvers. I ran across this source from Honda and it says the braking system is linked to the ride modes as well. What are your thoughts on slow control? I know it is a different animal and I continue to practice, which is the only way I will get better at it. hondanews.com/en-US/releases/2018-honda-gold-wing-tech-document?page_size=50&page=4
The link to the engine modes is nothing I've ever heard of, which means it play no noticeable role in any way, same as the suspension damping adjustment has no effect at all.
_"On the latest Gold Wing, the combined ABS settings are linked with the riding modes to automatically _*_adjust to braking characteristics ideal for the riding situation."_*
It would be nice to know what they are talking about!
@@eugeniustheodidactus8890 It's another level of overengineering and attempting to take the rider out of being in control of the motorcycle...
Here’s Honda’s explanation of the linked braking system on the modern Goldwing. In SPORT mode there is an initial bias to the rear brakes to reduce front end dive.
global.honda/en/tech/Electronically_Controlled_Combined_ABS/
The front brake lever hydraulically controls the front brakes and electro/hydraulically links to the rear brakes at all times.
The rear brake pedal electro/hydraulically links the rear and front brakes.