Sorry for the late reply. Here are some methods for testing the booster. Power Brake Booster Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4″, this indicates that the booster is working properly. Power Brake Booster Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Power Brake Booster Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Hey man thanks great video. That's all that corrosion that look like it came out of a flood.. good job maintaining it and getting the brakes working again. 🙀😻🤓😎🍺🍻😇 .
Man… You not even from Earth… You an alien… I appreciate you sharing this wisdom…
Thank you from the bottom of my heart. I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
Good job man. Helped me, trying to find if it’s my booster or the lines coming out.
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching,
Great job. Just what I’m dealing with. Wondering if there is a way to test the booster.
Sorry for the late reply. Here are some methods for testing the booster.
Power Brake Booster Test 1
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster.
Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4″, this indicates that the booster is working properly.
Power Brake Booster Test 2
Run the engine a couple of minutes.
Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster.
Power Brake Booster Test 3
Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Flawless, your video was straight forward and I loved you commentary, you make us feel like your friends, chill vibes, good job
Thank you so much for the kind words and watching my video. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for posting this. Replacing mine this weekend
Awesome! Thank you for watching.
Thankyou. Great explanation.
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Hey man thanks great video. That's all that corrosion that look like it came out of a flood.. good job maintaining it and getting the brakes working again. 🙀😻🤓😎🍺🍻😇
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Thank you and thank you so much for watching.
Thank you sir you are a great teacher
You're very welcome. Thank you so much for watching.
Exactly what I needed to see. Thank you!
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Awesome video . i have a 7.3 E450 school bus and have this problem right now . im no mechanic but i have faith that i could change mines myself 💪
Good luck with the job. You can do it!
Thanks bro. I’ve been stressing 😂
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Thanks Ed!
Good video, thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Does that truck have a hydro boost system (brakes and power steering under same pressure)? Mine looks different.
Nope. I thought only diesel trucks were equipped with hydroboost.
Great job, thanks for sharing! Curious, about how long did this take to do??
Literally about 30 minutes. Very easy and simple job. Thank you SO much for watching!
Good video man
Thank you and thanks for watching!
💪👍
No bleeding??
Only at the master cylinder. The brakes were fine.
@@TerenceDIY I’d think air would be in the line after removing from master?
@@RaceMentally , I didn't get any air in the line surprisingly.
To whoever has you on their Christmas list.
PS. GEAR WRENCHES/RATCHET WRENCHES.