Hi Eric, wanted to say thanks for your videos. Your approach to teaching is appreciated. The fact that you are willing to share your information is appreciated. The time you put in to making these videos is appreciated. We are switching over from classic investment and you are correct, ceramic shell is better and possible. With the newer slury, that does not need constant stirring or additives, we are taking the leap, with your help. Rather than stumbling through a new process, you helped fast-track the process for us. We have a kiln for melting wax from the moulds, but it is too smokey for our set-up, so we are trying the boil method. Two thumbs up for your work. PS. great sculpture work as well in your earlier videos.
Wow, thank you so much for your kind word. I am glad you are finding my videos help. How are the boil outs going so far. I have been meaning to do a video on that as well.
@@LunarburnStudio The first tests had mixed results with the shell, but the bronze turned out great. Your patching tips helped! We are going to do a second test next week, just waiting for more slurry. The biggest challenge is getting our heads around how things might be different for the wax trees. We had a great system for classic investment, but it may not be the best or translate well with ceramic shell (especially with boiling out). Did you start with classic investment? What were the biggest gating and venting changes if you did?
Yes I started with classic investment. If your spruing worked with classic it will work shell with regards to the metal. but your right with boilout or burnout in general you need to be mindful to give the wax escape routes out of the shell. You can do this via your venting or via micro-venting (drilling holes) to allow the wax to drain (or float). The classic (standard) investment because of its thickness can withstand the expansion of the wax where the shell needs some help from time to time.
@@LunarburnStudio ive been trying to do lost pla casting in plaster of paris. After seeing your videos i found a company that supplies silica flour etc so tried the lost pla in ceramic shell. 2 days later first succesful cast. After 20 plus attempts via other methods
@@LunarburnStudio the cheapest i can get a hold of. I believe its cctree. I noticed that its important to print with as little infill as possible and there has to be vents in all chambers as the air trapped in the mold expands and cracks the shell before it melts no matter how hot the kiln is during burnout
Hello Eric, I work at a University in Canada. We are currently in the process of switching over from classic investment to ceramic shell and your videos are proving to be an invaluable resource. The information you provide is presented in a clear step by step fashion that is easy to follow. I have a question ,not about mending the shells but about the zircon sand that you use for the first coating. The Remet page lists a few options . Fine as 400 mesh, coarse as 325 and extra coarse as 200. Are you using the fine/400 mesh? In the ceramic department we use a product called Ultrox which is a zircon silicate that is used as an opacifier in glazes. It has a mesh of 400 and is more of a flour than a sand. Do you think that it would be worth trying? I can't wait to see your furnace build in the next video. Thank you for your time.
What I’m using for the stucco it’s just referred to as zircon sand. The 400 325 and 200 mesh is typically referred to a grade of silica that specifically a flour, which you would actually add into the slurry itself. I would only add zircon flour to the slurry if I’m doing mostly iron casting because of its capacity to handle higher temperatures. The main limitation to adding zircon flour is that it is heavier then tge fused silica and will settle faster. It really need to be used with a mixer or drum on a timer to keep it suspended. Suspension additives aren’t enough.
Nice content, but the one video, that I am missing, is the one, where you finally fill in the METAL... And of course break out a nice and shiny skull afterwards, because this is why you do all that, right? 😀😄 Until now, this series carries a lot of helpful information. But I am missing the candy for all the work.
I hear ya. I am working on the rest of this series but unfortunately I have been busy with other gigs. New videos are coming soon, I promise. Glad to hear your are finding the my videos helpful.
Thanks again for this video series, it is really informative! I was wondering if you plan to do a video on shell removal? Would be really interested to know any tips & tricks you have on this as it seems to be a real pain to do without marking aluminium or bronze castings, especially with cores. Cheers
I am working my way thought the process but will definitely cover de-investment, but first need to pour some metal and to that that need to finish build a new furnace. Thank you in advance for your patience.
Hey Eric, I just happened on your channel and I gotta tell you I love it. This is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for. I share all the same interests in materials and techniques as you and I'll probably watch all you're videos in one day. Keep em coming this is great content.
Not sure what you asking. metal and glass at the same time? or separately? Solid metal casting yes no problem. Glass however is a challenge, the silica in the shell and in the glass like to fuse. I have tried a number of washes//coatings/releases but to get them thick enough to provide pa proper barrier you loose all your detail. But I am not giving up still a few more thoughts to try.
👍commenting for the youtube algorithm, keep up the good work man
Thanks, will do!
Hi Eric, wanted to say thanks for your videos. Your approach to teaching is appreciated. The fact that you are willing to share your information is appreciated. The time you put in to making these videos is appreciated. We are switching over from classic investment and you are correct, ceramic shell is better and possible. With the newer slury, that does not need constant stirring or additives, we are taking the leap, with your help. Rather than stumbling through a new process, you helped fast-track the process for us. We have a kiln for melting wax from the moulds, but it is too smokey for our set-up, so we are trying the boil method. Two thumbs up for your work. PS. great sculpture work as well in your earlier videos.
Wow, thank you so much for your kind word. I am glad you are finding my videos help.
How are the boil outs going so far. I have been meaning to do a video on that as well.
@@LunarburnStudio The first tests had mixed results with the shell, but the bronze turned out great. Your patching tips helped! We are going to do a second test next week, just waiting for more slurry. The biggest challenge is getting our heads around how things might be different for the wax trees. We had a great system for classic investment, but it may not be the best or translate well with ceramic shell (especially with boiling out). Did you start with classic investment? What were the biggest gating and venting changes if you did?
Yes I started with classic investment. If your spruing worked with classic it will work shell with regards to the metal. but your right with boilout or burnout in general you need to be mindful to give the wax escape routes out of the shell. You can do this via your venting or via micro-venting (drilling holes) to allow the wax to drain (or float). The classic (standard) investment because of its thickness can withstand the expansion of the wax where the shell needs some help from time to time.
Hello Eric. Hope you are fine. Have missed viewing your on-going ceramic shell related presentations of late. Roy
Ya Life has gotten in the way of editing, but i promise, new videos soon. Thank you for your patiences.
Thank you for all the great info. Got my first usable cast watching the series. Keep up the great work
Awesome! Thank you! What were some of the things that helped you succeed?
@@LunarburnStudio ive been trying to do lost pla casting in plaster of paris. After seeing your videos i found a company that supplies silica flour etc so tried the lost pla in ceramic shell. 2 days later first succesful cast. After 20 plus attempts via other methods
@@tke7mu0u Awesome, out of curiosity what pla do you use?
@@LunarburnStudio the cheapest i can get a hold of. I believe its cctree. I noticed that its important to print with as little infill as possible and there has to be vents in all chambers as the air trapped in the mold expands and cracks the shell before it melts no matter how hot the kiln is during burnout
Hello Eric,
I work at a University in Canada. We are currently in the process of switching over from classic investment to ceramic shell and your videos are proving to be an invaluable resource. The information you provide is presented in a clear step by step fashion that is easy to follow. I have a question ,not about mending the shells but about the zircon sand that you use for the first coating. The Remet page lists a few options . Fine as 400 mesh, coarse as 325 and extra coarse as 200. Are you using the fine/400 mesh? In the ceramic department we use a product called Ultrox which is a zircon silicate that is used as an opacifier in glazes. It has a mesh of 400 and is more of a flour than a sand. Do you think that it would be worth trying? I can't wait to see your furnace build in the next video. Thank you for your time.
What I’m using for the stucco it’s just referred to as zircon sand. The 400 325 and 200 mesh is typically referred to a grade of silica that specifically a flour, which you would actually add into the slurry itself. I would only add zircon flour to the slurry if I’m doing mostly iron casting because of its capacity to handle higher temperatures. The main limitation to adding zircon flour is that it is heavier then tge fused silica and will settle faster. It really need to be used with a mixer or drum on a timer to keep it suspended. Suspension additives aren’t enough.
Nice content, but the one video, that I am missing, is the one, where you finally fill in the METAL... And of course break out a nice and shiny skull afterwards, because this is why you do all that, right? 😀😄 Until now, this series carries a lot of helpful information. But I am missing the candy for all the work.
I hear ya. I am working on the rest of this series but unfortunately I have been busy with other gigs. New videos are coming soon, I promise.
Glad to hear your are finding the my videos helpful.
Thanks again for this video series, it is really informative! I was wondering if you plan to do a video on shell removal? Would be really interested to know any tips & tricks you have on this as it seems to be a real pain to do without marking aluminium or bronze castings, especially with cores. Cheers
I am working my way thought the process but will definitely cover de-investment, but first need to pour some metal and to that that need to finish build a new furnace. Thank you in advance for your patience.
Hey Eric, I just happened on your channel and I gotta tell you I love it. This is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for. I share all the same interests in materials and techniques as you and I'll probably watch all you're videos in one day. Keep em coming this is great content.
@@LunarburnStudio Waiting for this video to come up. 😃 Please don't let us down.
So the greenpatch method is the most convenient for drying time?
That is correct, it is the most immediate.
Can ceramic shell be used for casting solid metals and glass?
Not sure what you asking. metal and glass at the same time? or separately? Solid metal casting yes no problem. Glass however is a challenge, the silica in the shell and in the glass like to fuse. I have tried a number of washes//coatings/releases but to get them thick enough to provide pa proper barrier you loose all your detail. But I am not giving up still a few more thoughts to try.