"I know I'm covering probably a little to much" NO, no not even remotely, I love your videos because you get into the granular detail that provides the information to actually learn about the process! Never change!
“Does that make sense?” Yeah, it makes perfect sense, and a fantastic explanation. It’s such a gift to the world, teaching art forms and enabling self expression. You fucking rock man! Much love and support, brother.
Thank you so much for your videos! It has been challenging to find good information regarding shell casting and I’m learning so much here. Very excited to try out some new things and looking forward to more of your exceptional videos. Would love to see some mold making videos as well…
Thank you. I have watched a load of YT videos from people who do not know what they are doing and who get to the end and say 'now to review why this failed completely. It is nice to see one from a pro. But I wish I had watched a bunch of your videos before we tried to cast my son's final art piece last night. We tried to burn out then pour in one heating. The metal was ready before it was fully burned out, we decided to go for it anyway and managed a very fine geyser of wax jetting out of the top and the metal reaching about 1/3 of the cast. Today he goes back to school, I am left making another mould! I have a background in ceramics and guerrilla kiln building but metal casing is a whole new level. Thanks again.
We are coming from the same background, I started in ceramics and its still the basis of how i approach my foundry process. Feel free to ask me questions, happy to help if I can.
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks, we will have another go tonight. I already burned out the wax and all looks clean and white. fingers crossed. I am slowly working through lots of your videos so will see what you have covered before asking dumb questions (I know how this goes, I get a lot of questions on my channel!). But thanks again, this is youtube doing what it does best.
Great video series Eric, best on TH-cam or really even better than many classes or courses Thanks for spending so much of your time showing and teaching your techniques and processes, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for you kind words. Sorry for the slump in new videos but I have been busy finishing up several large scale commission for a client. Should be able to start editing starting this week. Stay tuned!
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks! I am doing plaster mold investment currently and have a very basic burnout/curing oven that I converted from an large old 4 burner BBQ using a 20psi regulator and DIY furnace controller. As I am looking at upgrading from plaster to ceramic shell your information has been very useful. Keep up the great work!
Eric, another thoughtful and generous presentation. Will check out source for the mits for handling heated ceramic shells. Do you have plans to present the boil out wax method? I used it with success. It is simple and efficient. As of last December I have gone through the entire process of ceramic shell casting for the first time. Have enjoyed and benefited from several of your videos. Thanks!
Hi Roy!, I am a foundryman from Lithuania. Could I ask to share more about boil out wax method? I have tried it with torch, but it gives a lot of cracks.
Hey! What is an efficient way of buying or acquiring your metal, in this case iron? Also, I absolutely support the idea of a more detailed video about the subtleties of your kiln
It is possible to buy iron ingots but most of whats melted at community iron pours that are running Cupolas brake up and melt down salvage/recycled radiators, bathtubs, sinks and with furnaces with big throats, brake roters.
Thank you for your detailed explanation of why you use your methods. I continually have cracks in my shell due to improper heating. This video has just come in time as I wanted to quit. Just one question though, up to what temperature do you pre-heat your shells before casting? Best Regards
Your pre-heat temp will depend in the thickness of your pattern but typically I shoot for a temperature of 1200-1400F for 3/16" (5mm) patterns (thinner the higher and thicker lower) when I pull them from the kiln. The temp might be a little higher than I need but it gives me some extra time to get my shells set before I pour them.
Hey Eric I would really like some info on the building of the afterburner. That may be a good video for you to do. Do you know if there is plans on the web anywhere ?
Ill add that to my list. It works best on down draft kilns with the added burner placed in the flue. My kiln is currently an up-draft, it works OK but my new kiln im building will be a down-draft.
Hi Eric, very very good video's your making. You give so much very useful informatie. I also want to start with ceramic shell investment casting. How long you burn you shell after de-wax? To virtified the shell. Kind regards from Holland!
Depends on the size of your kiln and how many shells your burning out at one time. I typically burn out 1-2 shells at a time. After the wax has drpped out i wait for the black smoke to stop. Then cook for another 5 min. Try to hold my burnout temp around 1650 f / 900 c
@@LunarburnStudio Hi Eric, I whas thinking to build my own burnout kiln. With softbricks and I will use your design of pouringcups. Ik whas thinking when I make a hole in de bottem of the kiln, and I design this so, that the pouringcup fits exactly on it, so when the wax drips out it will not come in contact with the flame of the burner. Maybe it wil not catch fire. And underneath a small pan (air tight)where the wax drips in, when this will catch fire, it will not burn long, because not enough ogxygen. Will this work?
Thank you. I like your approach and passion to metal casting by shell method. I would appreciate information about gas burner and also after burner. I also tried to contact Remet company in UK but they do not response.
Hi Eric, I whas thinking to build my own burnout kiln. With softbricks and I will use your design of pouringcups. Ik whas thinking when I make a hole in de bottem of the kiln, and I design this so, that the pouringcup fits exactly on it, so when the wax drips out it will not come in contact with the flame of the burner. Maybe it wil not catch fire. And underneath a small pan (air tight)where the wax drips in, when this will catch fire, it will not burn long, because not enough ogxygen. Will this work?
The theory sounds solid, just make sure there is some heat hitting the cup otherwise the wax could jam up at that point and crack your shell. Or you could take the step of de-waxing your cup only before placing it in your kiln.
Really great information in all your content, thank you for your generosity in sharing this. Creating fume is not really an option for our location is there anything to be aware of when using a boiling water bath to remove the majority of wax before placing in an electric kiln?
Depending on the shape of the pattern/wax you might want to create escape route for the waxes either by addition venting or drilling micro-vents. Remember the wax will float up not run out.
Hi, I am currently trying to learn the ceramic shell process and wanted to ask what temp and for how long you fire the shell and for how long? My shells are quite fragile. I use quartz powderinstead of silica powder, does that make a difference?
I bring my shells up to 1650F/900C then hold for 10 mins or so. But really dependent on when the shell are white. If you have a gas kiln firing in reduction this will take longer. As for the shell, I am not familiar with quartz powder per say. What I use is Fused Silica which is fired quartz.
Hello, I am a sculptor from Lithuania, trying ceramic shell that is completely new for us. We have tried to burn out the wax with blowlamp, but it causes a lot of small cracks. You mentioned that there is possibility to boil it out, how does it work? Have tou tried it? Thanks!
How do you proceed for 3D print burn out? In a previous video your Skull is not wax but a 3D print. Do you use the same heat level and process when firing 3D print material, How do you avoid expansion of the print material causing the cracking of moulds
For the most part yes, same temps as wax, especially with the Polycast. Pla will burn out at a lower temp, but you still need to vitrify the shell at 1650F/900C
Great video as always. Thanks I’m hosting a “Pour Out” in late June. Would enjoy having you as a session presenter. Facebook BigRock Bronze Works for info.
@@LunarburnStudio I’d love to have you here if you want to make the journey... not a lot of money in this, but if you want to do an hour session on a topic (give me a call to discuss). A zoom may be an interesting twist. I’ll have some Grad. Student here to help with the tech LOL!
"I know I'm covering probably a little to much" NO, no not even remotely, I love your videos because you get into the granular detail that provides the information to actually learn about the process! Never change!
Cool, Ill keep with flooding you all with detailed info. I promise, more videos are coming soon.
“Does that make sense?” Yeah, it makes perfect sense, and a fantastic explanation. It’s such a gift to the world, teaching art forms and enabling self expression. You fucking rock man! Much love and support, brother.
As always, a lot of good information. Thank Eric
Thank you so much for your videos! It has been challenging to find good information regarding shell casting and I’m learning so much here. Very excited to try out some new things and looking forward to more of your exceptional videos. Would love to see some mold making videos as well…
Thank you for you kind words and I glad you are fine my videos helpful. More videos soon, its been a busy summer.
Thank you. I have watched a load of YT videos from people who do not know what they are doing and who get to the end and say 'now to review why this failed completely. It is nice to see one from a pro. But I wish I had watched a bunch of your videos before we tried to cast my son's final art piece last night. We tried to burn out then pour in one heating. The metal was ready before it was fully burned out, we decided to go for it anyway and managed a very fine geyser of wax jetting out of the top and the metal reaching about 1/3 of the cast. Today he goes back to school, I am left making another mould! I have a background in ceramics and guerrilla kiln building but metal casing is a whole new level. Thanks again.
We are coming from the same background, I started in ceramics and its still the basis of how i approach my foundry process. Feel free to ask me questions, happy to help if I can.
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks, we will have another go tonight. I already burned out the wax and all looks clean and white. fingers crossed. I am slowly working through lots of your videos so will see what you have covered before asking dumb questions (I know how this goes, I get a lot of questions on my channel!). But thanks again, this is youtube doing what it does best.
@@NomadArchitecture excited to see your results!
Great video series Eric, best on TH-cam or really even better than many classes or courses
Thanks for spending so much of your time showing and teaching your techniques and processes, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for you kind words. Sorry for the slump in new videos but I have been busy finishing up several large scale commission for a client. Should be able to start editing starting this week. Stay tuned!
I would like to see a deep dive into the burnout kiln. That afterburner is awesome!
Working on that video now!
I really appreciate all the information that you share
Thank you for yet another generous dollop of valuable information....looking forward to the pour!
My too, but first I need to rebuild my furnace ( those videos in the works)!
Thanks for another informative video.
You bet!
I’m about to get a ceramic kiln for de waxing, I’m super exited
what kind/type of kiln did you score?
@@LunarburnStudio a paragon a-88b now I have to make some electrical work around the house. But thing are progressing ;) how you been?
@@juanofthekind im good, thanks for asking. A little too busy with work gigs which is slowing down my video production, but overall good.
@@LunarburnStudio i miss you. No pressure, people don’t realize how time consuming is to make videos.
Yeah man any really specific in depth videos on the kiln your sculpting or any of your equipment or for metal melting would be great.
Just about done with my new furnace, new videos on that build soon.
Great info! Would love a video on your burnout furnace if you are keen to make one!
I will definitely do that this weekend. Thanks for your interest. How are you currently burning out shells, if you are?
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks! I am doing plaster mold investment currently and have a very basic burnout/curing oven that I converted from an large old 4 burner BBQ using a 20psi regulator and DIY furnace controller. As I am looking at upgrading from plaster to ceramic shell your information has been very useful. Keep up the great work!
Eric, another thoughtful and generous presentation.
Will check out source for the mits for handling heated ceramic shells. Do you have plans to present the boil out wax method? I used it with success. It is simple and efficient. As of last December I have gone through the entire process of ceramic shell casting for the first time. Have enjoyed and benefited from several of your videos. Thanks!
Testing a few things, but yes will be showing the boil-out method in a couple of videos from now.
Hi Roy!, I am a foundryman from Lithuania. Could I ask to share more about boil out wax method? I have tried it with torch, but it gives a lot of cracks.
Hey! What is an efficient way of buying or acquiring your metal, in this case iron?
Also, I absolutely support the idea of a more detailed video about the subtleties of your kiln
It is possible to buy iron ingots but most of whats melted at community iron pours that are running Cupolas brake up and melt down salvage/recycled radiators, bathtubs, sinks and with furnaces with big throats, brake roters.
Thank you for your detailed explanation of why you use your methods. I continually have cracks in my shell due to improper heating. This video has just come in time as I wanted to quit. Just one question though, up to what temperature do you pre-heat your shells before casting? Best Regards
Your pre-heat temp will depend in the thickness of your pattern but typically I shoot for a temperature of 1200-1400F for 3/16" (5mm) patterns (thinner the higher and thicker lower) when I pull them from the kiln. The temp might be a little higher than I need but it gives me some extra time to get my shells set before I pour them.
Hey Eric I would really like some info on the building of the afterburner. That may be a good video for you to do. Do you know if there is plans on the web anywhere ?
Ill add that to my list. It works best on down draft kilns with the added burner placed in the flue. My kiln is currently an up-draft, it works OK but my new kiln im building will be a down-draft.
Hi Eric, very very good video's your making. You give so much very useful informatie. I also want to start with ceramic shell investment casting. How long you burn you shell after de-wax? To virtified the shell.
Kind regards from Holland!
Depends on the size of your kiln and how many shells your burning out at one time. I typically burn out 1-2 shells at a time. After the wax has drpped out i wait for the black smoke to stop. Then cook for another 5 min. Try to hold my burnout temp around 1650 f / 900 c
@@LunarburnStudio Hi Eric, I whas thinking to build my own burnout kiln. With softbricks and I will use your design of pouringcups. Ik whas thinking when I make a hole in de bottem of the kiln, and I design this so, that the pouringcup fits exactly on it, so when the wax drips out it will not come in contact with the flame of the burner. Maybe it wil not catch fire. And underneath a small pan (air tight)where the wax drips in, when this will catch fire, it will not burn long, because not enough ogxygen. Will this work?
Thank you. I like your approach and passion to metal casting by shell method. I would appreciate information about gas burner and also after burner. I also tried to contact Remet company in UK but they do not response.
I will be doing the follow up on the burnout kiln this weekend. Glad your finding my videos helpful!
Hi Eric, I whas thinking to build my own burnout kiln. With softbricks and I will use your design of pouringcups. Ik whas thinking when I make a hole in de bottem of the kiln, and I design this so, that the pouringcup fits exactly on it, so when the wax drips out it will not come in contact with the flame of the burner. Maybe it wil not catch fire. And underneath a small pan (air tight)where the wax drips in, when this will catch fire, it will not burn long, because not enough ogxygen. Will this work?
The theory sounds solid, just make sure there is some heat hitting the cup otherwise the wax could jam up at that point and crack your shell. Or you could take the step of de-waxing your cup only before placing it in your kiln.
Really great information in all your content, thank you for your generosity in sharing this. Creating fume is not really an option for our location is there anything to be aware of when using a boiling water bath to remove the majority of wax before placing in an electric kiln?
Depending on the shape of the pattern/wax you might want to create escape route for the waxes either by addition venting or drilling micro-vents. Remember the wax will float up not run out.
Hi, I am currently trying to learn the ceramic shell process and wanted to ask what temp and for how long you fire the shell and for how long? My shells are quite fragile. I use quartz powderinstead of silica powder, does that make a difference?
I bring my shells up to 1650F/900C then hold for 10 mins or so. But really dependent on when the shell are white. If you have a gas kiln firing in reduction this will take longer. As for the shell, I am not familiar with quartz powder per say. What I use is Fused Silica which is fired quartz.
Hello, I am a sculptor from Lithuania, trying ceramic shell that is completely new for us. We have tried to burn out the wax with blowlamp, but it causes a lot of small cracks. You mentioned that there is possibility to boil it out, how does it work? Have tou tried it? Thanks!
working on a boil out video next. It works but has some limitations.
Where does the propane come from on the kiln? What if there's a crack in your shell after the burnout?
Propane comes from tanks, some are portable, some are not. Just depends on your studio space, zoning and building codes.
How do you proceed for 3D print burn out? In a previous video your Skull is not wax but a 3D print. Do you use the same heat level and process when firing 3D print material, How do you avoid expansion of the print material causing the cracking of moulds
For the most part yes, same temps as wax, especially with the Polycast. Pla will burn out at a lower temp, but you still need to vitrify the shell at 1650F/900C
Love it
Thxs man!
Apa perbedaan pemanas api gas dan pemanas elektrik?
Apakah dg api Burner jika mengunakan sistem labu yg di isi gypsum akan membuat nya mudah retak
what language is this so I can translate?
: D Thank you very much!!
You're welcome!
👍
Glad you are digging the vids, let me know if you have any questions.
Great video as always. Thanks
I’m hosting a “Pour Out” in late June. Would enjoy having you as a session presenter. Facebook BigRock Bronze Works for info.
That sound great, count me in! Would i need to be there in person or online?
@@LunarburnStudio I’d love to have you here if you want to make the journey... not a lot of money in this, but if you want to do an hour session on a topic (give me a call to discuss). A zoom may be an interesting twist. I’ll have some Grad. Student here to help with the tech LOL!
@@cmjones32 For this year a Zoom will be our best bet, but would love a reason for a trip next year