I've used this very same pump for years with great success. first you must find a way to uncurl the small tube other wise it will not reach the sump bottom. second push the tube gently down till you feel it is at the sump bottom, any more pushing and it will curl back on its self preventing all the oil from be sucked out. Now you must get the car in such a position that the oil is at its deepest level relative to the dip stick hole thereby ensuring that all the oil is extracted. One small point is to be sure that the container for the old oil is at ground level, and not as some people do and have it in the engine bay, thus making the pump work harder to pump the oil into it.
Mine worked well once. Second time I used it, a few months later, it pumped for a few seconds, until oil got into pump area, and then promptly stopped dead and will soon go to landfill. So much for lidls car tools.
Hello my friend! I got here cause another guy solved the issue which happened to me as well. The BLACK cable has a fuse in between the connections covered by the heatshrink, all you have to do is replace it for a more capable one or just bypass the fuse connecting directly. 10 months since you posted but I hope some other people find it helpful.
I got bit on one as well. Mine ran but would not suck up the oil. The engine oil was warm and should have came out. Ended up using a hand pump model extractor that a frend had.
My one stopped after a couple of uses and as someone else said there is a fuse within the unit on one of the leads. Mine had blown so all I did was to remove the internal fuse and add a new fuse holder on the external red lead, so next time it blows its any easy job to replace.
Sadly, the impeller on mine was making contact with the impeller cover. This meant that once the cover was put on, the pump would seize and blow the fuse.
I tried to do this and my tube has got stuck inside the oil dipstick tube, it got sucked in a little while the motor was running. Im afraid to turn the motor back on, what can or should i do?
That’s rather annoying, I did not realise there was a fuse. It makes sense, I thought the heat shrink was just hiding a join. It makes sense that the circuit seemed to be completely open. Given others experience with this unit, I’m in the minority and it’s just bad luck on my part. I invested in a very similar equivalent which probably shares the same internals, and the results were rather favourable.
Ha I ,v just come acrooss your channel... regarding the pump I too bought one ,,mine runs but does not pump,its still in the box unmolested ...Being from Lidl you could have throw back together and returned ,they would have refunded you.... Regarding your other hobby 80s Hi fi... I do not know anything about Hi Fi but I have a love of music (70s Rock) I have a full set of B/O 5000 (apart form CD player) I am going to attemp to get it working,and maybe buy the correct CD to go with it... I know the compact cassette is knackhard (no great loss) any advice!!!
Hello, thanks for commenting :). The B&O 5000 is a lovely unit. With anything, I tend to start by connecting everything up and then testing to see what does, and does not work. I then work from there. First things I tend to replace, are the various belts. I suspect your cassette deck probably needs belts. A set of assorted size square belts can be located from various retailers or from eBay. I would then look at cleaning up the various slider/dial controls on the unit with some switch and contact cleaner, but only if required, say if they're a bit sticky or if they cause a crackling sound when operated. Once you have the basics covered, you can then troubleshoot further if required. At this point, I would engage the services of a professional restorer or take your time to learn. Join a few forums, facebook groups, etc.
@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies Nah I know the casette is shot,The guy who attempted a repair (me)had not a clue what he was doing and made it good only for spares...Thanks for the advice...
I purchased another which was fine, but….I prefer just getting under the car and draining the oil. For £9.99, it was worth a go even if it did fail due to a faulty impeller.
I should’ve, but……it was £9.99 and would cost me about that in time and fuel to drive to and from our nearest Lidl (30 minutes away, each way). Also, I quite enjoy dismantling things.
I've used this very same pump for years with great success. first you must find a way to uncurl the small tube other wise it will not reach the sump bottom. second push the tube gently down till you feel it is at the sump bottom, any more pushing and it will curl back on its self preventing all the oil from be sucked out. Now you must get the car in such a position that the oil is at its deepest level relative to the dip stick hole thereby ensuring that all the oil is extracted. One small point is to be sure that the container for the old oil is at ground level, and not as some people do and have it in the engine bay, thus making the pump work harder to pump the oil into it.
Mine worked well once. Second time I used it, a few months later, it pumped for a few seconds, until oil got into pump area, and then promptly stopped dead and will soon go to landfill. So much for lidls car tools.
Hello my friend! I got here cause another guy solved the issue which happened to me as well. The BLACK cable has a fuse in between the connections covered by the heatshrink, all you have to do is replace it for a more capable one or just bypass the fuse connecting directly. 10 months since you posted but I hope some other people find it helpful.
In this case, the impeller had been poorly machined so would not rotate with the cover in place, that wrote it off unfortunately.
I got bit on one as well. Mine ran but would not suck up the oil. The engine oil was warm and should have came out. Ended up using a hand pump model extractor that a frend had.
My one stopped after a couple of uses and as someone else said there is a fuse within the unit on one of the leads. Mine had blown so all I did was to remove the internal fuse and add a new fuse holder on the external red lead, so next time it blows its any easy job to replace.
Sadly, the impeller on mine was making contact with the impeller cover. This meant that once the cover was put on, the pump would seize and blow the fuse.
I tried to do this and my tube has got stuck inside the oil dipstick tube, it got sucked in a little while the motor was running. Im afraid to turn the motor back on, what can or should i do?
I also had a fuse blown on the new machine and now I know why I changed the hoses and the greater flow of the sucked oil, the fuse didn't last
Some battery chargers requires some voltage from a battery to switch on its charging power.
Did you test the fuse underneath the heatshrink?
That’s rather annoying, I did not realise there was a fuse. It makes sense, I thought the heat shrink was just hiding a join. It makes sense that the circuit seemed to be completely open. Given others experience with this unit, I’m in the minority and it’s just bad luck on my part. I invested in a very similar equivalent which probably shares the same internals, and the results were rather favourable.
@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies I’d just seen it in another video about this same unit. Sneaky fuse indeed.
Ha I ,v just come acrooss your channel... regarding the pump I too bought one ,,mine runs but does not pump,its still in the box unmolested ...Being from Lidl you could have throw back together and returned ,they would have refunded you.... Regarding your other hobby 80s Hi fi... I do not know anything about Hi Fi but I have a love of music (70s Rock) I have a full set of B/O 5000 (apart form CD player) I am going to attemp to get it working,and maybe buy the correct CD to go with it... I know the compact cassette is knackhard (no great loss) any advice!!!
Hello, thanks for commenting :). The B&O 5000 is a lovely unit. With anything, I tend to start by connecting everything up and then testing to see what does, and does not work. I then work from there. First things I tend to replace, are the various belts. I suspect your cassette deck probably needs belts. A set of assorted size square belts can be located from various retailers or from eBay. I would then look at cleaning up the various slider/dial controls on the unit with some switch and contact cleaner, but only if required, say if they're a bit sticky or if they cause a crackling sound when operated. Once you have the basics covered, you can then troubleshoot further if required. At this point, I would engage the services of a professional restorer or take your time to learn. Join a few forums, facebook groups, etc.
@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies Nah I know the casette is shot,The guy who attempted a repair (me)had not a clue what he was doing and made it good only for spares...Thanks for the advice...
I've got one that I use for diesel had a year and has been faultless. You just had a bad one. You should have simply exchanged for another one.
I purchased another which was fine, but….I prefer just getting under the car and draining the oil. For £9.99, it was worth a go even if it did fail due to a faulty impeller.
As above mentioned you got a burned fuse 10A 250 watt ,
Indeed, which I replaced, and which failed again. The pump itself would not fit with the end cap on.
Should of took it back for a replacement
I should’ve, but……it was £9.99 and would cost me about that in time and fuel to drive to and from our nearest Lidl (30 minutes away, each way). Also, I quite enjoy dismantling things.