I’m a major Sicce fan. I run Sicce pumps for every application, from maintenance to main return pumps in my AIO tanks - with the one exception being a Neptune COR-15 return pump in the sump of my main display tank. I started with a Sicce 4.0, and found myself adjusting the flow wheel every 48-72 hours to try and keep the level consistent. I could never achieve it. Switched to the Neptune pump (which is DC, whereas the Sicce was AC), fine tuned it during setup, and have never had to touch it again. It’s been 6 months. Not one single adjustment. As much as I love Sicce, Neptune’s DC return pump made my life a whole lot easier. I think general AC pumps may fluctuate very slightly over time, while smart DC pumps are precise enough to “self-correct” their output, but it’s just my hunch. Great video. Love your content.
I did clean the valve during the last water change and it is some better. It was covered in some brown sludge. However, it’s still drifting a tad….enough to make vacations more stressful than they should be. I don’t want to come back home to find my water level has bottomed out in the overflow box and salinity is out of whack! I think I’ll need to try a different return pump from the sicce I have like you recommended. I look into the COR-15!
Hey @kalamazoo_reefer I’ve picked up a Neptune Cor 15 and will swap out the sicce for my return pump on my Red Sea 350. Not sure what tank you have, but do mind sharing what maximum speed you run? Hoping this solves the issue of constantly adjusting the Down flow valve. Thanks!
I have the XXL900 and it is quiet as a mouse. I turn the dial and watch the water level in my overflow. I let the water get to a point where is makes no noise and that's it. Haven't touched it since. The water change noise is normal. It takes a couple of minutes after I restart the pumps for it to dial itself back in. After that it's back to being dead silent. I would look at getting a DC pump like a COR 15 or 20 that you can really dial in.
Yea, was thinking of trying a DC pump. The tank is dead quiet and the water level stabilizes in the overflow. It’s just that after 3 to 4 days it’s slowly has risen and starts overflowing into the emergency drain. I don’t really mind it does that, it’s more so that it’s drifting and it will continue to drift unless I go in there and open the valve a little bit (or close it if it’s gotten too low and starts to gurgle). It’s the progressive drift that is the issue I’m having.
@@zburnreefing Perhaps there is something wrong with the valve. Have you tried taking it apart to see if something is wrong or maybe it just needs cleaning.
i have always struggled with downflow valves when the output is that far submerged. it traps bubbles in the pipe. try shortning the pipe so its barely submerged and see if it helps.
how much would you have spent to just build your own the way you want it instead of buying a pre-built? For example, think in terms of building the PC you want vs buying an alienware...
You probably could do something similar for half the cost. Especially if you’re patient with sales. For example Innovative Marine I think has 40% off on some of their tanks right now. I’ve done it before several times for less than half by piecing together systems using used gear. The hobby has a lot of folks come and go so buying used is a real option. With this latest system it is clear you are definitely paying for the convenience factor (i.e., plug and play plumbing, etc).
Glad I watched your video! I’m still running the original Red Sea 130 and planned to upgrade to the new 350 G2. I started thinking, maybe the 425 but now after watching your video maybe I’ll just go with the 525!
I live in South Africa where our summers are sweltering hot. I have a G1 525XL that popped a seam. Tank was only 6 years old so good luck with yours! I managed to save the glass from shattering using duct tape. I got the tank refurbished and properly reinforced with fresh silicon all round and extra bracing down each corner, and at the bottom. Just got the tank back and this time I removed the two doors that are over the sump side, so that the sump has more air flow (as you mentioned the airflow in the sump sucks!), redid all the plumbing with hard plumbing, I detest clear tubing! Basically made the sump part of the display, neat and tidy.
Wow, that’s a terrible story! But sounds like you are in a very good place now with the tank. Yea, I’m nervous to say the least. Maybe need to time an upgrade at the 5 year mark 😳
I recently purchased RedSea Reefer S-1000 G2. It's going through Water Cycle now, but after initial installation was done, the technician who installed it asked me to get a water reservoir so that they can hookeup the ATO. After I did, i called him to come in and install it, he wants to charge me US$180 for installation! WTF. Then he text me asking if I were planning installing Auto Dosing, Wave Maker, etc. He said it will cost me the same. The last saltwater aquarium I've had was in 1990's in Miami. and it was just a 4-footer tank. This 7-footer reefer with the sump is a totally different game. When is the right time to install the wave maker? when all livestock in place, or, ideally it goes now? what about the price? Is it any reasonable at all, or a total rip off? what about DYI, any videos? (BTW, that price is installation only, the actual ATO is already here)
Hi there, I am not quite sure what is reasonable or not when it comes to those service charges. I have only ever installed everything myself. To setup an ATO should just take a few minutes...fill the reservoir with RODI water, add in the pump and lines, mount the sensor and then test...if the tank is brand new, there is no need to setup auto dosing yet, but you can if you are bored while the tank cycles...yes you can install some wavemakers, but not super important until the tank is cycled and you have some life in it...but if you have the wavemaker, no reason to not just throw it on there and test out how to use the controller, etc. While the tank cycles is the perfect time to learn about your gear and get things setup. The wavemaker should be pretty easy...mount them so you can get a ripple across the surface of the water for now...once you get corals and life in the tank, you may want to tweak the location for coral health. Good luck on your new tank!
It is😍 i got a great deal at Macna 2022. Couldn’t resist it. The owner of Aquaforest him self gave me a tour of the tank. And there is a youtube video by Fragbox tv :) I really enjoy your videos. Great job 👏🏼
@@hixyhicksthat’s so unfortunate to hear There’s so many things I like about the Red Sea tanks over the others The 850 for example just has a better sump setup compared to a similarly sized water box which has a tiny rectangular refugium section The Red Sea sump has the fuge on the other side of the wall which is brilliant because side you get zero light spill into other areas
Zburn, I'm building the same set up as you about a month and a half behind you. Would love to show you pictures. I had a black G1 350 before this one. Not sure if this would work. But could you put a quarter inch extension on your back up? Obviously not in line with the glass, might give you some room to play with the value. Honestly my is pretty dialed in. However, I do not have as much mechanical items as you yet. Keep making videos man! It's crazy that someone is building that same tank as I am at the same time and has the attention to detail I love. I had a channel for my first 350. Man it was rough. Been thinking about getting back on and progressing through this build. Have loads of videos that what need to be edited though. Anyways keep it up man. Maybe we can chat in the future.
Hey Shane, your piece of advice may be worth a shot! Thanks for chiming in. I am going to open up that valve and clean it out to see if that helps, then I’ll be on the plan B. It’s just weird…it will hold steady for 1-2 days, but then it’s drifted again. It may be my return pump contributing. Anyways, yea I’d love to see your tank, happy to connect sometime in the future and see what you have going! I have my first big test coming up - will be my first week long vacation since getting this tank up and running…crossing my fingers things go well while I’m out!
Yeah, I can't remeber what return pump you have. Mine is DC so I did have to adjust the pump and the value, but ones I got it dialed in, it's quiet. I think you'll be fine on the vacation, but I can understand the anxiety. Try not to stare at your phone the whole time 😂. Hope you have a good idea on feeding the fish. I don't have a vacation coming up too soon, but I do wonder about the feeding aspect. I just moved to Alaska. So, I do not have anyone to come over and feed the correct way yet.
As a comment mentioned about atmospheric pressure... adjust your valve on a 30.30"/1016mbar pressure day, and you may see fewer adjustments. Standard atmosphere is 29.92" / 1013 mbar for reference. All aquarium users should keep FlexTape (or other waterproof tape) immediately handy, and have a couple people in your phone contacts to act for you in an emergency.
Ive litterlay just got this huge pallet delivered today and im debating swapping to a gate valve before i even setup (cabinet is built) currently need a 2nd pair of hands to lift tank onto cabinet then i can sort plumbing and add the reefmat...did you leave the material in the bubble trap part before the return section or remove it?
I pulled the material in the bubble trap before the tank even got wet. Haven’t thought about it since. I’m running socks at the moment and microbubbles are non existent. I had a few when my skimmer was new, but nothing now. I’d probably do a proper gate valve if I were you. It’s been an absolute pain…fiddling with it now as just completed my weekly water change, ugh. What tank you get? 350?
@@zburnreefing ye the reefer 350g2+ , ive seen a few people say its spot on but just as many people say swap it out before its even wet lol, this is literally my 1st salt water tank so im starting from fresh but have 1 or 2 mates in the hobby for cheap frags lol, i wont be using there top of tank (maybe the equipment in an external) i have a skimz skimmer and control, TMC 2000 DC return pump, reefmat 500, DC jebao wavemakers salt and live sand so im getting there lol...fun part is aquascaping soon to be accomplished *edit* oh and a light i bought pre owned but cant remember the name of it lol
Nice, that’s a great start! For a first tank you are making all the right decisions to be successful with that starting equipment. Enjoy the journey! And make sure to get that tank level!
You want that little bit of drain going down the emergency pipe that's what it's there for. This is the bean animal method as described on reef Central almost 20 years ago.
There are 2 things happening here, 1 - you got bad advice from Red Sea 2 - you are worrying about this too much, a little water going down the 2nd drain doesn't impact anything. It's one of those things that's driving you crazy because you know its happening but it doesn't harm or help the tank at all. There is also fluctuations in the water level because of the atmospheric pressure, how clogged your filter socks are, if you were using a filter roller then amount of water in your filter roller also affects it. Tune the valve where the water level is further down so when it fluctuates, it doesn't make a sound. Water going over into the secondary drain still goes through the socks - no big deal.
@@zburnreefing just to add that I have a 150 with a bean animal overflow and I tune it where a little water goes into the secondary drain which goes to my cryptic area with live rock that feeds pods. The main drain goes to a Red Sea filter roller. No big deal for me. Low nitrates, pods everywhere because they get some food from the display.
Indeed, the email offering a discounted extended warranty is completely intentional! Many companies adopt similar strategies with subscriptions and other products. However, hearing that Red Sea does this honestly leaves a bad taste in my mouth
The water overflowing into the emergency will not affect salinity. You can cut of the dumb diaphragm valve and put in a gate valve. There is no room in any of the sump areas with RedSea. I have one and probably will never buy another. I would get either water box or Innovation Marine.
Every time the water level drifts and starts overflowing into the emergency drain my ato kicks on…whether salinity actually changes significantly enough is probably up for debate. Your right though, likely minimal. When the water level drifts the other way, it drops in the overflow and my tunze ato alarm goes off. I now have a surplus of water in the return section. Fun stuff. It’s mostly just annoying more than anything and makes leaving the tank on vacation a little unnerving - knowing I can’t adjust the valve every few days. Yea I’m with you…I’m starting to think there may be better plug and play options out there. The down flow valve is driving me nuts.
@@zburnreefing look on Saltwater Aquarium for a Gate valve setup. I think I saw it on there with the appropriate metric reducers. Your tank setup is pretty sweet though. 👍🏼
Warranty is quite scary I think especially for notorious G1 leaks. If the G1 leaks, you can claim warranty and they will simply replace the tank for you. Done and dusted for them. For the reefer, leaking causes more damage than just a broken glass tank. I shall not elaborate on what more damages it cost but definitely includes mental trauma. Hope the G2 doesn’t develop that reputation!
All great points…crossing my fingers on this one. I’ll be honest, I didn’t know about the G1 issues until I had already pulled the trigger on this G2. Time will tell, but hoping they got things figured out.
Yeah it looks like the new return valve is no better than the gen one. I even fitted a high quality third party valve and it's not better. I have the same issues with drifting. And it does affect salinity. I wouldn't get another red sea tank.
Yea, even when I make some smaller adjustments to how much water trickles over into the emergency drain, my auto top off pump will start running a fair amount. I agree and do think salinity can swing quite a bit if not careful. I just have had to accept that I need to check it periodically to make sure its not drifting too much, or to prevent too much water for trickling over into that secondary drain.
Is it not more likely the pump is the thing that's causing drift because a gravity fed tube with a valve that isn't moving should maintain a very steady flow rate. The voltage at the wall socket is not constant, it varies due to the use of power in the home and from the power supply company. Variations in voltage leads to variations in the RPM of a pump's motor. So here in the UK for example, as it's a known fact variations can occur in voltage output, there's a specified plus/minus tolerance limit set by parliament that power companies should seek to stay within, but even then they can drift outside of that. In the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. So between 217V and 253V. Found this on the USA. "Voltage levels are often highest during the nighttime hours and weekends when the electrical demand is minimal and are lowest weekday afternoons when the demand for electricity peaks. Most electric utilities in the U.S. try to maintain the voltage level within plus or minus 5% of the nominal voltage level (e.g. 480V +/-5%), however for short periods the voltage level may be as much as 6% high or 13% low (according to ANSI Standard C84.1). On the nominal 480V system, this would translate to incoming voltage ranging from 509V (480V +6%) to 420V (480V-13%). Larger deviations from nominal voltage are also permissible on a momentary basis or may simply be unavoidable."
I agree with you that inconsistencies in return pump flow is partly to blame. The valve does get dirty and needs to be cleaned to remain stable, However, since this video I have swapped out my return for a DC pump and haven't had near as much trouble. I still have to adjust the valve so a little water trickles over into the overflow, but for the most part I can go multiple weeks without touching it now.
I may have finally hit it myself. I picked up a Neptune cor15 and now instead of adjusting the valve, I just adjust the pump speed slightly….it’s been locked in now for 3 or 4 weeks…crossing my fingers it stays like this.
Actually going to clean the stock valve this weekend to give it one last shot, then if it doesn’t improve will try a new gate valve. Was just out on vacation a week and got back and water level had dropped way down…darn thing!
Good call, although 6 ft starts to get a little bit intimidating and costly. Although the intimidation factor is a mental issue. Wish I had a fish room…hmm
@@zburnreefing I'm not big fan of either of these companies but Waterbox isn't "better". The Red Sea is a more refined tank made of better materials, go see one person and look at the stand, the edges and the finish before you go this route.
@@ReefingwithO I think the waterbox has good quality. You dont see people complaining about waterbox like redsea. Redsea has had several flaws throughout the years. The whole warranty thing is a joke also imo.
Maybe or maybe not. I should have probably given waterbox and innovative marine exts a little more consideration. Thanks for sharing the opinion, much appreciated.
I have the same tank I I have the same problem with the emergency drain and water just keeps going down it.
Me too same exact I also thought it might be my return pump
I’m a major Sicce fan. I run Sicce pumps for every application, from maintenance to main return pumps in my AIO tanks - with the one exception being a Neptune COR-15 return pump in the sump of my main display tank. I started with a Sicce 4.0, and found myself adjusting the flow wheel every 48-72 hours to try and keep the level consistent. I could never achieve it. Switched to the Neptune pump (which is DC, whereas the Sicce was AC), fine tuned it during setup, and have never had to touch it again. It’s been 6 months. Not one single adjustment. As much as I love Sicce, Neptune’s DC return pump made my life a whole lot easier. I think general AC pumps may fluctuate very slightly over time, while smart DC pumps are precise enough to “self-correct” their output, but it’s just my hunch. Great video. Love your content.
I did clean the valve during the last water change and it is some better. It was covered in some brown sludge. However, it’s still drifting a tad….enough to make vacations more stressful than they should be. I don’t want to come back home to find my water level has bottomed out in the overflow box and salinity is out of whack! I think I’ll need to try a different return pump from the sicce I have like you recommended. I look into the COR-15!
Hey @kalamazoo_reefer I’ve picked up a Neptune Cor 15 and will swap out the sicce for my return pump on my Red Sea 350. Not sure what tank you have, but do mind sharing what maximum speed you run? Hoping this solves the issue of constantly adjusting the Down flow valve. Thanks!
Sicce quality is great but they’re extremely loud
Its a no brainer to go with a reef octo varios or some other pump
Let me know what u have urs set to or if u figured this out. I have same tank and pump as u
I have the XXL900 and it is quiet as a mouse. I turn the dial and watch the water level in my overflow. I let the water get to a point where is makes no noise and that's it. Haven't touched it since. The water change noise is normal. It takes a couple of minutes after I restart the pumps for it to dial itself back in. After that it's back to being dead silent. I would look at getting a DC pump like a COR 15 or 20 that you can really dial in.
Yea, was thinking of trying a DC pump. The tank is dead quiet and the water level stabilizes in the overflow. It’s just that after 3 to 4 days it’s slowly has risen and starts overflowing into the emergency drain. I don’t really mind it does that, it’s more so that it’s drifting and it will continue to drift unless I go in there and open the valve a little bit (or close it if it’s gotten too low and starts to gurgle). It’s the progressive drift that is the issue I’m having.
@@zburnreefing Perhaps there is something wrong with the valve. Have you tried taking it apart to see if something is wrong or maybe it just needs cleaning.
@@donmonteith775 yea, that is my next plan is to open up the valve and clean it well. Maybe that will do the trick.
i have always struggled with downflow valves when the output is that far submerged. it traps bubbles in the pipe. try shortning the pipe so its barely submerged and see if it helps.
I'm about to hit my three year mark soon, didn't even know they offered an extended warranty, thanks for the video!
how much would you have spent to just build your own the way you want it instead of buying a pre-built?
For example, think in terms of building the PC you want vs buying an alienware...
You probably could do something similar for half the cost. Especially if you’re patient with sales. For example Innovative Marine I think has 40% off on some of their tanks right now. I’ve done it before several times for less than half by piecing together systems using used gear. The hobby has a lot of folks come and go so buying used is a real option. With this latest system it is clear you are definitely paying for the convenience factor (i.e., plug and play plumbing, etc).
Glad I watched your video! I’m still running the original Red Sea 130 and planned to upgrade to the new 350 G2. I started thinking, maybe the 425 but now after watching your video maybe I’ll just go with the 525!
Do it!! 😬 I wish I would have…
Just enough room for 250g2,thats where Iam heading.
I live in South Africa where our summers are sweltering hot. I have a G1 525XL that popped a seam. Tank was only 6 years old so good luck with yours! I managed to save the glass from shattering using duct tape. I got the tank refurbished and properly reinforced with fresh silicon all round and extra bracing down each corner, and at the bottom. Just got the tank back and this time I removed the two doors that are over the sump side, so that the sump has more air flow (as you mentioned the airflow in the sump sucks!), redid all the plumbing with hard plumbing, I detest clear tubing! Basically made the sump part of the display, neat and tidy.
Wow, that’s a terrible story! But sounds like you are in a very good place now with the tank. Yea, I’m nervous to say the least. Maybe need to time an upgrade at the 5 year mark 😳
I recently purchased RedSea Reefer S-1000 G2. It's going through Water Cycle now, but after initial installation was done, the technician who installed it asked me to get a water reservoir so that they can hookeup the ATO. After I did, i called him to come in and install it, he wants to charge me US$180 for installation! WTF. Then he text me asking if I were planning installing Auto Dosing, Wave Maker, etc. He said it will cost me the same. The last saltwater aquarium I've had was in 1990's in Miami. and it was just a 4-footer tank. This 7-footer reefer with the sump is a totally different game. When is the right time to install the wave maker? when all livestock in place, or, ideally it goes now? what about the price? Is it any reasonable at all, or a total rip off? what about DYI, any videos? (BTW, that price is installation only, the actual ATO is already here)
Hi there, I am not quite sure what is reasonable or not when it comes to those service charges. I have only ever installed everything myself. To setup an ATO should just take a few minutes...fill the reservoir with RODI water, add in the pump and lines, mount the sensor and then test...if the tank is brand new, there is no need to setup auto dosing yet, but you can if you are bored while the tank cycles...yes you can install some wavemakers, but not super important until the tank is cycled and you have some life in it...but if you have the wavemaker, no reason to not just throw it on there and test out how to use the controller, etc. While the tank cycles is the perfect time to learn about your gear and get things setup. The wavemaker should be pretty easy...mount them so you can get a ripple across the surface of the water for now...once you get corals and life in the tank, you may want to tweak the location for coral health. Good luck on your new tank!
Im with you on the valve.. it sucks i had to get rid of it because it was driving me crazy. Got an Aquaforest 980.. not a single regret
Wow, just looked at the Aquaforest 980. That thing is a beauty! I like the options they give you with stand colors…that gray is tempting!
It is😍 i got a great deal at Macna 2022. Couldn’t resist it. The owner of Aquaforest him self gave me a tour of the tank. And there is a youtube video by Fragbox tv :)
I really enjoy your videos. Great job 👏🏼
I would never buy a Redsea tank again just because of the plumbing .Its rubbish .
@@hixyhicksthat’s so unfortunate to hear
There’s so many things I like about the Red Sea tanks over the others
The 850 for example just has a better sump setup compared to a similarly sized water box which has a tiny rectangular refugium section
The Red Sea sump has the fuge on the other side of the wall which is brilliant because side you get zero light spill into other areas
Zburn, I'm building the same set up as you about a month and a half behind you. Would love to show you pictures. I had a black G1 350 before this one. Not sure if this would work. But could you put a quarter inch extension on your back up? Obviously not in line with the glass, might give you some room to play with the value. Honestly my is pretty dialed in. However, I do not have as much mechanical items as you yet. Keep making videos man! It's crazy that someone is building that same tank as I am at the same time and has the attention to detail I love. I had a channel for my first 350. Man it was rough. Been thinking about getting back on and progressing through this build. Have loads of videos that what need to be edited though. Anyways keep it up man. Maybe we can chat in the future.
Forgive my grammar. If it's not email, I slack 😂
Hey Shane, your piece of advice may be worth a shot! Thanks for chiming in. I am going to open up that valve and clean it out to see if that helps, then I’ll be on the plan B. It’s just weird…it will hold steady for 1-2 days, but then it’s drifted again. It may be my return pump contributing. Anyways, yea I’d love to see your tank, happy to connect sometime in the future and see what you have going! I have my first big test coming up - will be my first week long vacation since getting this tank up and running…crossing my fingers things go well while I’m out!
Yeah, I can't remeber what return pump you have. Mine is DC so I did have to adjust the pump and the value, but ones I got it dialed in, it's quiet. I think you'll be fine on the vacation, but I can understand the anxiety. Try not to stare at your phone the whole time 😂. Hope you have a good idea on feeding the fish. I don't have a vacation coming up too soon, but I do wonder about the feeding aspect. I just moved to Alaska. So, I do not have anyone to come over and feed the correct way yet.
Could add like a computer case extraction fan on the back?
Potentially, although with the plumbing it is a very tight space and hard with work with.
As a comment mentioned about atmospheric pressure... adjust your valve on a 30.30"/1016mbar pressure day, and you may see fewer adjustments. Standard atmosphere is 29.92" / 1013 mbar for reference. All aquarium users should keep FlexTape (or other waterproof tape) immediately handy, and have a couple people in your phone contacts to act for you in an emergency.
Your Overflow valve adjustment annoyance is sooooooooooooo on point!!!!!!....Super frustrating 🤷🏾♂🤷🏾♂🤷🏾♂
I’m with you , that’s why I went for a DD 1500 aluminium frame 😊
And I still haven’t got enough room , not like my mates 8ft Cade tank
I have just bought a 2nd hand 425. I bought it empty. God I hope there are no issues. I don't know who owned it as I am buying it from my local LFS.
Do a leak test first, look at seams when full, make sure stand is level, I’m sure you’ll be just fine!
Ive litterlay just got this huge pallet delivered today and im debating swapping to a gate valve before i even setup (cabinet is built) currently need a 2nd pair of hands to lift tank onto cabinet then i can sort plumbing and add the reefmat...did you leave the material in the bubble trap part before the return section or remove it?
I pulled the material in the bubble trap before the tank even got wet. Haven’t thought about it since. I’m running socks at the moment and microbubbles are non existent. I had a few when my skimmer was new, but nothing now. I’d probably do a proper gate valve if I were you. It’s been an absolute pain…fiddling with it now as just completed my weekly water change, ugh. What tank you get? 350?
@@zburnreefing ye the reefer 350g2+ , ive seen a few people say its spot on but just as many people say swap it out before its even wet lol, this is literally my 1st salt water tank so im starting from fresh but have 1 or 2 mates in the hobby for cheap frags lol, i wont be using there top of tank (maybe the equipment in an external) i have a skimz skimmer and control, TMC 2000 DC return pump, reefmat 500, DC jebao wavemakers salt and live sand so im getting there lol...fun part is aquascaping soon to be accomplished *edit* oh and a light i bought pre owned but cant remember the name of it lol
Nice, that’s a great start! For a first tank you are making all the right decisions to be successful with that starting equipment. Enjoy the journey! And make sure to get that tank level!
You want that little bit of drain going down the emergency pipe that's what it's there for. This is the bean animal method as described on reef Central almost 20 years ago.
The issue is it doesn’t get totally silent - that’s the problem he’s having
There are 2 things happening here, 1 - you got bad advice from Red Sea 2 - you are worrying about this too much, a little water going down the 2nd drain doesn't impact anything. It's one of those things that's driving you crazy because you know its happening but it doesn't harm or help the tank at all. There is also fluctuations in the water level because of the atmospheric pressure, how clogged your filter socks are, if you were using a filter roller then amount of water in your filter roller also affects it. Tune the valve where the water level is further down so when it fluctuates, it doesn't make a sound. Water going over into the secondary drain still goes through the socks - no big deal.
Worrying about it too much may be part of it for sure!
@@zburnreefing just to add that I have a 150 with a bean animal overflow and I tune it where a little water goes into the secondary drain which goes to my cryptic area with live rock that feeds pods. The main drain goes to a Red Sea filter roller. No big deal for me. Low nitrates, pods everywhere because they get some food from the display.
You want a trickle going over emergency!! It will do no harm
Why are so many of them leaking that is really discouraging to me a all in one system seem very nice but with all the leaks am scared of them
Yea I agree; makes me nervous…luckily I haven’t heard of any of the new generation tanks leaking yet, but time will tell…
Other then it leaking in less then three years?
Yea, I’d be lying if I wasn’t nervous about that…
Indeed, the email offering a discounted extended warranty is completely intentional! Many companies adopt similar strategies with subscriptions and other products. However, hearing that Red Sea does this honestly leaves a bad taste in my mouth
I absolutely hate the big overflow box. So many other tank makers keep the back panel flat and i much prefer that look.
Good call. I really like the design of the larger innovative marine tanks with external overflows.
The water overflowing into the emergency will not affect salinity. You can cut of the dumb diaphragm valve and put in a gate valve. There is no room in any of the sump areas with RedSea. I have one and probably will never buy another. I would get either water box or Innovation Marine.
Every time the water level drifts and starts overflowing into the emergency drain my ato kicks on…whether salinity actually changes significantly enough is probably up for debate. Your right though, likely minimal. When the water level drifts the other way, it drops in the overflow and my tunze ato alarm goes off. I now have a surplus of water in the return section. Fun stuff. It’s mostly just annoying more than anything and makes leaving the tank on vacation a little unnerving - knowing I can’t adjust the valve every few days. Yea I’m with you…I’m starting to think there may be better plug and play options out there. The down flow valve is driving me nuts.
@@zburnreefing look on Saltwater Aquarium for a Gate valve setup. I think I saw it on there with the appropriate metric reducers. Your tank setup is pretty sweet though. 👍🏼
Warranty is quite scary I think especially for notorious G1 leaks.
If the G1 leaks, you can claim warranty and they will simply replace the tank for you. Done and dusted for them. For the reefer, leaking causes more damage than just a broken glass tank. I shall not elaborate on what more damages it cost but definitely includes mental trauma. Hope the G2 doesn’t develop that reputation!
All great points…crossing my fingers on this one. I’ll be honest, I didn’t know about the G1 issues until I had already pulled the trigger on this G2. Time will tell, but hoping they got things figured out.
@@zburnreefing really liked the G2 until I started seeing the issues with the from leaks with the G1.
Yeah it looks like the new return valve is no better than the gen one. I even fitted a high quality third party valve and it's not better. I have the same issues with drifting. And it does affect salinity. I wouldn't get another red sea tank.
Yea, even when I make some smaller adjustments to how much water trickles over into the emergency drain, my auto top off pump will start running a fair amount. I agree and do think salinity can swing quite a bit if not careful. I just have had to accept that I need to check it periodically to make sure its not drifting too much, or to prevent too much water for trickling over into that secondary drain.
Is it not more likely the pump is the thing that's causing drift because a gravity fed tube with a valve that isn't moving should maintain a very steady flow rate.
The voltage at the wall socket is not constant, it varies due to the use of power in the home and from the power supply company.
Variations in voltage leads to variations in the RPM of a pump's motor.
So here in the UK for example, as it's a known fact variations can occur in voltage output, there's a specified plus/minus tolerance limit set by parliament that power companies should seek to stay within, but even then they can drift outside of that.
In the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. So between 217V and 253V.
Found this on the USA.
"Voltage levels are often highest during the nighttime hours and weekends when the electrical demand is minimal and are lowest weekday afternoons when the demand for electricity peaks. Most electric utilities in the U.S. try to maintain the voltage level within plus or minus 5% of the nominal voltage level (e.g. 480V +/-5%), however for short periods the voltage level may be as much as 6% high or 13% low (according to ANSI Standard C84.1). On the nominal 480V system, this would translate to incoming voltage ranging from 509V (480V +6%) to 420V (480V-13%). Larger deviations from nominal voltage are also permissible on a momentary basis or may simply be unavoidable."
I agree with you that inconsistencies in return pump flow is partly to blame. The valve does get dirty and needs to be cleaned to remain stable, However, since this video I have swapped out my return for a DC pump and haven't had near as much trouble. I still have to adjust the valve so a little water trickles over into the overflow, but for the most part I can go multiple weeks without touching it now.
@@zburnreefing That's good news then. I suppose the DC pump is less affacted by the AC voltage variances.
I think i build my own diy aquarium all that money to pay for red sea and it not enough room or auto top off issue thanks for video
Drill the stand and attached a fan that pulls air out.
I have two Red Sea tanks, and I'm so paranoid about them springing leaks
I always hit the sweet spot... 😏
I may have finally hit it myself. I picked up a Neptune cor15 and now instead of adjusting the valve, I just adjust the pump speed slightly….it’s been locked in now for 3 or 4 weeks…crossing my fingers it stays like this.
I put a gate valve on mine. No issues. The ATO is a joke.
Actually going to clean the stock valve this weekend to give it one last shot, then if it doesn’t improve will try a new gate valve. Was just out on vacation a week and got back and water level had dropped way down…darn thing!
Replace it with a gate valve
The smaller the tank the more difficult the space management. For a sump set up I would not go less than 6ft tank.
Good call, although 6 ft starts to get a little bit intimidating and costly. Although the intimidation factor is a mental issue. Wish I had a fish room…hmm
I had one back in the day and I wasn't pleased with it. Waterbox was the answer.
A Waterbox is definitely on my radar…in case I’m tempted to upgrade water volume. 😎
@@zburnreefing I'm not big fan of either of these companies but Waterbox isn't "better". The Red Sea is a more refined tank made of better materials, go see one person and look at the stand, the edges and the finish before you go this route.
@@ReefingwithO I think the waterbox has good quality. You dont see people complaining about waterbox like redsea. Redsea has had several flaws throughout the years. The whole warranty thing is a joke also imo.
@@ReefingwithO Love the channel and what your doing in the hobby.
Too much whinging . It’s a fish tank . All fish tanks comes with little issues. If u so particular get one custom build to your own specifications 👍🏻
Maybe or maybe not. I should have probably given waterbox and innovative marine exts a little more consideration. Thanks for sharing the opinion, much appreciated.
Maggie Muffler is the solution
I’ll check that out, thanks!
Socks look dirty ignore me tho im ocd lol
I need more nitrates, little bit dirty is ok for me.
My red sea failed and leaked all over my floors
@@Georgedunne-i7o I’m so sorry!! I am seeing way too many similar stories of this happening. Very unacceptable! It is worrisome for sure.
There are much bigger problems in life
Worst tank you could ever purchase
Not yet…