This video was great, you should definitely do a video comparing diffident engine swaps (LS, K, etc.) that what advantages, disadvantages and cost and when its better to just go with a built stock engine for the same power goals. I feel like that would be an interesting video.
Few things for the 1.6 -Nb6 cams and lifters cant just be swapped in unless you cut off the drive for the cam angle sensor and weld it onto the Nb6 cams -The automatic Na6 has variable TPS and the NB6 -You can safely bore all 1.6 blocks to 81mm which gives you 1720cc and can use B16a or 4Age pistons(some machining but fairly cheap). -People in Europe and pretty much anywhere but the US have a bolt on head swap with better port angle and flow in VVT and non VVT in the ZL-VE and ZM or Z5 BJ familia motors. -The stock hydraulic lifters are easily converted to solid without shim by replacing the internal of the lifter using a piece of steel tube or rod and then you can buy cams or get them ground. -Factory crank is 83.6mm stroke stock but you can get from B5ZE or ZLVE(certain models in the B5 only due to rod big end dia) which gives you a short stroke motor 77 or 78mm and mix that with 81mm 4AGE pistons creates a 11:1 compression engine for cheap with the same bore/stroke as a 4age which is advantages for revving on Natural aspiration I have a B6 from 92 with 121whp at 8100rpm and the torque holds well to over 7000rpm with only cams, valve springs and ITBs no porting or anything. I think the rev happy thing is true purely due to weight of rotating assembly but that isnt something that relates to power but is something you feel when driving.
@@NappMotorsports Availability. You guys didn't get the 1.6. In the UK we have tons of them so the whole 1.6 vs 1.8 thing doesn't make sense here, our cars rust like crazy so you're far better buying on the condition of literally everything else lol.
Awesome info! I’ve got a 94 block and VVT head + flat top i/m that I’m putting together this winter. All the benefits of the VVT head but with easy to access oil and water lines in the block. I wish I had known earlier that the main bearing support plate could be used on the earlier blocks! I already had my oil return fitting welded into my 94 pan. But it sounds like the support plate isn’t super crucial at sub 300 hp levels.
Always appreciate the mini master classes of information you put out. God speed and good journey! *Curently tinkering on a NA 1.8 1995 R-Pachage all Black* 👊🤓 P.S. That impression was pretty dang good, funny too.
I have a 88 323 GTX with a engine/tranny from front cut JDM 323 GTR. (stock Factory 210 HP). I used the 99 protege head on and had the flow restriction bumps ground down. One thing you did not mention is windage trays in the oil pan. The GTR motor comes with a windage tray from the factory. Nice to have in a vehicle experience extensive time in high lateral G conditions. Great informative video. All the best, M.
Bought a NA VVT Swapped car, my first Miata and I love it. It's has some bugs I have to work out but flat out it takes a beating, part throttle needs tunning. Keep the videos coming love the content.
I currently have a nb 1.6 here in ireland love the car and hoping to turbo this engine sometime next year shooting for 200hp however I do have a spare nb 1.6 i was considering building but after this I think I will have to find a 1.8vvt motor only thing that scares me is wiring time to face my fears i guess. thanks for the great video keep up the good work. :D
Hello my Irish brother. Keep the 1.6. I have a turbo '91 1.6 that's been making 220hp reliably for the last 13k miles on stock internals. Plan on going forged and mildly porting the head over the winter and shooting for more. 1.6 gang up 💪💪
Great video and sharing of your knowledge. Been watching your videos since picking up a ‘92 Miata and arrangements are made to picking up a ‘03 Miata parts car next month. Was wondering if you have a video covering the topic of what is required to move the 2003’s 1.8 with 6spd into the ‘92 Miata.
All you need to do is cut the bullet style connectors off the 5 speed and crimp them onto the 6 speed (the sensor with the black plug). There is no polarity so it doesn’t matter which one goes where. Also take your speed sensor out (1 10mm bolt at the bottom/back of the trans) and slide that gear assembly out. Swap that into the 6 speed and it’s converted.
rn im turboing my stock 1.6 NB Engine and building a spare 1.8 BP4W just to piss people off 😁 although i could go for a built VVT, i just dont like the fact it will blow my 6 speed at peak torque as the BP4W is (also like flyinmiata said) better to tune on making horsepower until 8k rpm, which is the best of both worlds - a „revhappy“ 1.8 👌🏽
@@NappMotorsportsi know for a fact that the risk of breaking anything on the drivetrain from wheel hop is higher, because of the extra lowend torque a VVT generates, im simply against it for my purpose its obvious that almost everyone building a VVT goes for „max hp“ when its forged, im just looking to stretch the powerband +u have the option of a nice 323gtr valve cover on a bp4w 😁 all based on 4 years of research and decsionmaking
I put a turbo on my 1999 NB and I still love learning new to me information on this car. Next year I'm gonna take it out and build the bottom end. I have a td04 turbo set up on mine (probably one of the very few stateside that I've seen/know of lol) with the td04 turbo stuff from BOFI racing.
Na6 had different compression ratios based off of transmission. The automatic transmission could not handle the power. Thus Mazda used different rings and pistons to lower the compression ratio and lower the power output. 1990-92 had lower hp than 93. The most power you could get was out of a 1993 manual transmission. This had the highest horse power and compression ratio.
I have a short nose 1.6 in my miata. I agree with you. The 1.8's are both better engines. Have driven several cars with those engines. For daily and spirited driving, just a better setup wiht the extra torque and HP. I live in Norway, where the laws about turboing cars are strict. I will probably engine swap mine to a BP4W because i get to re-seal the engine and just know that everything works, but not build it. No need since i can't legaly get the car registered with more than about 136hp. So lumping the car through registration, and then tuning it up to about 220hp. I'll be happy with that. Thanks for great content! :)
What a great video! What is your opinion on rpm limit between the BP4W and the VVT? From what I have read the VVT intake cam suffers from resonance above 7400 rpm. What is you experience on this? I have a 10AE with the BP5A engine swapped for a VVT. 157whp and rev limit of (yes indeed) 7400 rpm.
Thanks for the information. Possibly in a year or two getting a car for track weekends HPDE fun for myself and my boys. The engine will be last but seeing where I should start. I guess the NB2 car is at the top to buy for sort of cheap fun.
I am currently collecting the parts needed for an itb bp4w swap on an na6, when I was looking for cams for the vvt motor the selection just wasnt as good and i ended up with a very clean bp4w so i don't have many regrets, I ended up going for marufa 264's and I'll be using the vvt pistons and a head shave to bump up the compression to 11:1 or so but if I was building again I'd probably go for the vvt engine with the 270 cat cams. Great video though, very informative
I have an 02 NB Series 3 VVT engine (Australia) completely stock internals with a GT2560R Running about 10PSI, about 165rwKW and 240nm at the wheels - Never missed a beat with a really good tune, although I'd love to know the limits of stock internals cause I want more boost. Do you know the limits of these engines when stock, the VVT BP-ZE in particular?
i couldnt imagine not having vvt for my 400hp street car. the low end just makes it so much nicer to drive around normally. i imagine theres a bit more of an argument for non vvt for racing applications but realistically vvt is the way to go
Now I'm considering doing a swap again (just need to find the time and save up a bit) I don't mind my 1.6, but I know that long term its a limiting factor. If it wasn't for the fact I found an amazingly clean 1990 (low miles, immacualte service records, etc) , I would have held out for something with a 1.8 in it.
I’ve owned 7 Miata’s so far… the VVT is definitely the “best”. You can really feel the mid range and hear it breathing more like a Honda motor. I will say I really enjoyed driving a 1.6 through West Virginia though, it has character and does feel genuinely zingy, full throttle time is always rewarding. I personally would love to drive the ND 1.5 just to experience what the mazda engineers intended.
The ND 1.5 is a really nice engine and was definitely zingier than the ND1 2.0, though obviously didn't have the low and mid range torque. The 2-litre in the ND2 is much closer to the 1.5 in character, has more of that revvy feel.
Over here in Australia, we got the best of all worlds for the VVT. Ours were basically the same as the JDM cars, with the square top intake manifold, freer flowing exhaust manifolds, and the higher compression ratio. Like the JDMs, the AUDM cars made roughly 152 hp, compared to the 146 ish the US got from factory. Least that's what Mazda quotes lmao. Plus Aus got something real special. Over here was the SP MX5. A VVT NB2, turbo from factory (Only for the 2002 model year, in 2004 the Mazdaspeed released, or in Aus just called the SE). Making roughly 200 to 210 HP, and it remains as the highest power MX5 to be produced from factory to this day, and was the first factory turbo MX5 since the Mazdaspeed didn't release till 2004. Though oddly the SE in Australia made 10 less hp compared to the Mazdaspeed in the US. Apparently they ran only 7.25 psi of boost, instead of the 8.5 PSI the USDM and JDM variant got. Not entirely sure why that was.
What do you think of an in-vehicle semi-rebuild? I have higher-compression racing pistons and rods, which will increase compression from 9/1 to 11/1, as well as better-flowing parts. I already need to tear apart the rear end. A bar broke off at a weak spot and will be replaced with a much stronger RX7 cover. The engine is in good shape but probably needs some light-honing to get decent cross-hatching.
The 116 HP Miata 1.6 DOHC motor from 1990-1993 is a normally aspirated version of that 323 turbo engine. It mainly differs from the turbo counterpart in higher compression pistons (to 9.4:1), lighter connecting rods and a lighter flywheel. This means that the NA version of the motor is quite over engineered for its applications. (how many NA motors do you know have oil spray cooling for the pistons). The automatic transmission version of the 1.6 DOHC engine has lower compression pistons to 9.0:1 and the camshafts have less duration. These changes were done for the automatic version to gain torque at a lower rpm and minimize detonation from the torque eating trans. The tradeoff is a less peak HP rating of 100. In 1991 a running change was made to the crank design from repeated failures of the pulley keyway. The pre-91 motors had a 22mm crank snout while the late 1991 and later had 27mm crank snouts. The 1.6 DOHC motor lived on in the Mercury Capri and XR2 until 1995.
Great video, looking to perhaps buy a cheap NB soon with the intention of jacking with it, is it possible to adapt the VVT to a BP4W? Intending to get about 180WHP NA if I go through with it, what would you recommend to reach that goal with trackday reliability in mind. And how much would a build like that cost if it were to have ITBs, 8k RPM?
Pretty informative. I have a 90 and I’m trying to decide where to go with my build. You guys should do a video on diffs. That’s where I’m stuck. I’ve read different things about say the 7” diff will handle. Would it take a mostly stock 1.8vvt?
Really enjoyed the vid as i'm considering an engine swap in the future since theyre nice and cheap in the uk. One question though, I have a jdm 91 1.6 theyre apparently rated at 115hp and just wondered what makes them so different to the 90hp ones?
I think he's talking at the wheels - most 1.6s whether JDM, Euro, US were all broadly in that 115 ballpark give or take a few horses, but it's more like 90 at the wheels (in a healthy engine!). Euro and Japanese NB 1.6s were nearer 110 at the crank though I think, and when the NA 1.8 arrived, Europe also got a detuned 1.6 with only around 90 at the crank - I think that was fundamental stuff like a milder cam. No idea what they make at the wheels but probably not a lot...
Just to add some info. Europe and Japan had the NB in '98. Japan also had the NB6. Europe also got the NA 1.6 longer (till '97) with less hp (Not sure if Japan also got these), think they only differ in cams and ecu. Europe also got the BP5A in every NB1. The NA8 isn't like the NA6 (only the lifters and the cas), the BP4W is literally the 'facelift' of the NA8 BP. 4:08 The NB6 doesn't have the slot on the camshaft for the CAS like the NA so it doesn't work on a stock ECU. Don't get the love for the 1.6 either. Even worst is the NB6 in europe, they have the 4.1 diff... slow af. If you're looking for squaretop intakes let me know.
That’s the 3rd gen. We got those here with only the 2.0L and people commonly 2.5 seal them. But that engine and the 3rd gen/NC 1.8 are different than the 1.8 and 1.6 block.
There is an interesting thread on the casting quality and a little bit difference between angles on the bp4w and vvt header.. i think on the miataturbo-forum (not sure though).. someone cut in half a few headers and compaired them.. did you see that one?
I know this is just about NA/NB, but everyone secretly knows the NC's Mighty MZR is best. The iron BP block makes a fantastic anchor when you're out boating. Now where did I put my captain's hat?
I got a 96 1.8 block with a 99 head and a 96 cam shaft on the intake side. In a 99 miata lol. More lift, less over lap and a bit lower compression. Which i like because im turbo. :). Btw there is a site that has every years cam specs. All side by side. And it give you all the info.
So the 1.6 does come with a factory vtps, but only on the automatics. It's rev happier. It's more reliable. Lord have mercy, never ask a 1.8 owner why their crank wobbles. They'll be like "I thought that was only on the short nose 1.6" 😂 sike! The 1.6 makes tons of factory horsepower and torque. When I threw my stock 1.6 on the dyno with 208k miles, that torque curve was a flat pancake from 3500 to 5750 rpm. A BP6D (vvt) can't do that 💪1.6s were born for boost. Designed for the amazing 323GTX, the B6ZE loves to have a turbo strapped to it. It's the OG miata engine. The NA chassis was designed around the 1.6. Mazda knew the 1.6 was such a beast, they even made a factory turbo 1.6 LeMans edition Miata for 91 to commemorate the 787B's win at LeMans. They didn't do that for the Rx7 👀 point of the story is, the 1.6 is KING and all other opinions are objectively incorrect.
Not sure if this was mentioned already but the MSM block is not quite the same as the 99-00 block. The MSM uses the same crankshaft and larger thrust washer and MBSP as all 01-05 engines. The block is the same as the 01-05 but with the water and oil ports drilled, of course 🙂
For the most power cheaply. It's the 99-00. Better head flow. You can use volvo b20 valve spring. The cams have a longer duration. Less peaky. What's this mean. More boost. No valve float. You still need rods, e85 you might get away with stock pistons. I'd upgrade. With e85 the stock valves are fine too. Keeps them cooler. You'll need oil pump gears and harmonic balancer. I'm running 20psi from a efr. Same setup 300whp going in 3 years. Runs perfect. Oil filter is always pretty clean.
I'd argue VVT for the most power cheaply. Same head flow, you can use volvo springs, and I've pushed them and they don't have valve float until around 8000 rpm.
Keep in mind when swapping a 1.8 into an NA6 that you can use your current ECU with a BP4W but not a VVT. Obviously if you are going FI then everything changes. If you’re going “stock” then this might be a consideration
That's a lot different haha. Being a totally different casting (that's more similar in every way to the 1.6) is unfixable. You could not get BP4W or VVT flow out of a NA8 head.
@@NappMotorsports A BP4W or VVT head will bolt onto an NA8 block though, there is no compatibility between the NA6 and NA8 engines, they are completely different.
Assuming you don’t answer this in the video, i have a 1.8 with BP2 stamped on the back of the block. I’ve looked online everywhere and I’ve found sources that say bp2 is for many different years. What’s up with BP2?
1992 1.6 with a built motor, 196 bhp at tge fly on throttle bodies (cross checked on two dynos). It's a great engine. So is my 1.8 turbo, just different flavours of the same great snack
I spun a bearing in my 93 na6, ended up building the bottom end, forged rods and pistons, lower comp, upgraded oil pump... if i theoretically wanted to do a 250-300hp turbo build with what i have, what else should i do to it?
If you have the knowledge, you should do a video on the 1990-1994 Proteges. They are 1.8 blocks with either a SOHC or DOHC head. I think the 323s have 1.6 engines, as did the mx-3. My 92 protege has the oil and coolant feed ports, maybe i should put a turbo on it :P . Theres a bunch of other cars that have BP engines.
So the real best is the vvt head on the bp4w block to get the stock oil and water ports. Also, I didnt realize the mazdaspeed engine was more valued than the other 1.8s. I guess keeping the second mazdaspeed motor is more of an investment than I thought!
The stock ports aren’t that great of an addition, especially when you consider the VVT bottom end has higher compression pistons factory, and a main bearing support plate. Oil and water are super easy to source from other places on the block.
I Got a mazda familia 323 gtr wrc bp08 block with the forged crank , big oil cooler sodium exhaust filled valves with orange stripe forged rods and more aggressive cams
@@batousan_ this man didn't watch the video I want something that'll be daily-able boosted at 200-220bhp (that number because I can't afford to build the engine or replace the 5-speed yet)
I really wanna 1.8 swap my na (and keep my 1.6 as a backup or for a supercharger build). But I'll most likely go with a BP4W and build that with higher compression, a maruha 87mm crank and ITBs. All that just because the VVTs are quite rate and expensive here in Germany
And if it's done right you won't regret it. Sell the 1.6 and use the extra cash to add more upgrades towards your new supercharge to improve a healthier engine bay to make it smoother for the long haul. Good luck!
The 1.6 is great and fun engine. Drove a few different Miata’s and I really do enjoy the 1.6 on some twisty roads. Really though all engines are great for different people and there goals with the car.
So much good info. Didn’t know about the euro stuff. Not that I’ll ever own one either lol. -love the 1.6 slander BUT I will say something. the hate the short nose one gets with its crank wobble issues is plain stupid. I’ve had multiple 1.8s with bad keyways, people need to learn the big crank bolt is supposed to be very tight.
You know if the mazda lantis/323f ba 94-98 as a 1.8 bp engine, will fit bp5a cam? What mod should or can i use for them. I was teel that they are similar to bp4w.
Two questions. 1st, what years of Miata have the vvt? You skipped that in the video. 2nd: have you considered doing a video of 'best bang for your buck' or ' a progression of where to start and a logical path of adding to your motor over the seasons?' I don't have the dough to drop in a $10k or $15k motor. But if for example, I wanted to start with base level VVT, then start adding mods to it, what order of upgrades would make the most sense. Hopefully that makes sense. I have some interest in building a Locost/Lotus, but the motor is something I am still learning about.
So I was listening taking notes... First thanks for sharing the insight. Second, could one just put a bp4w head on a b4d6? I mean I agree, but in a pinch, could they do it?
I recommend the FlowForce kit. Plug and play if you have an aftermarket ECU. If you're on stock ECU, don't worry about it as the stock coils are totally fine for stock power.
@NappMotorsports sorry I couldn't help myself! I'll stop now. Lol. Seriously though, Looking forward to getting my hands on the K24 intake tube! Take your time, engine isn't even in the car yet... I gotta get cracking.
I went from a 1.6 to a VVT, and I gotta say that I like the VVT more. With the flat top, cobra intake, headers, and a high flow cat/exhaust I'm making about 140whp, but leagues more midrange than a 1.6 could ever hope to have. So far it's my favorite setup, but I'll see how that holds, once I get my Rotrex kit on
My stock '04 has the 1.8 vvt and factory intake manifold. Will the performance improve any if I install a squaretop intake? Or vwould I need to run forced induction to take advantage of the squaretop?
Similar but different, we swapped a VVT build from the factory 01-05 intake manifold over to a skunk2 (slightly better than squaretop) and a bigger throttle body and the car (when tuned for it) gained 15 whp. So there's definitely a benefit, I'm not sure if you'll feel it without a tune though.
If someone had a MSM and wanted around 450-500whp, done right the first time built for absolute abuse, would you suggest building the stock motor or swapping to the VVT?
Hey mate, I have a 2001 VVT Australian delivery miata, and in need of another intake cam gear as my brother stole mine off my vehicle after engine swapping his NA. I wanted to know if the BP4w 99-2000 cam gear is compatible with mine, any advice is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I have a 91 1.6 and want to go NA and build a fun car and not for all out power. Since the jdm vvt has the sqaure top manifold and higher compression would that be a better starting platform then switching the manifold on a vvt. I don't want to lose cruise control, ac or power steering and can't switch to a non mazda motor because I still like to autocross sometimes. I also have 3 work trucks and four trailers but prefer to drive to the track as it it less hassle then trying to get my car on the trailer. s the jdm motor with a standalone ecu worth the extra price worth it over a us junkyard motor and then switching out the manifold. I want to go for the easiest plug and play swap that gives me the most na without opening up the motor or losing stop and go driveability.
I have a turbo na8 currently making 230bhp that I plan to forge and aim for 280 to 300 bhp , would it also be a good idea just swapping on a vvt head while doing this and installing bottom end bearing support on na block or should I swap out complete engine for a forged vvt?
@@NappMotorsports The later Euro2 emission Engine in the NA6 had just 9,0:1 compression Ratio with other cams and 90 HP. The NB 1.6 hat the same compression Ratio like the 89-93 1.6 but was rated with 110 HP. I put some the chips from some European 1.6 90 HP Stock ECUs with my eprom reader and looked for timing tables. Some of them after 1996 run only 17-18 degree of timing at redline. The Camshaft from the 90 HP are also different so they make more torque in low and mid range. In combination with the 4.1 rear end in this cars its more a cruiser car than a happy reving sports car. Funfact i have a NA6 115 HP a NA6 90 HP and a NA8 131 HP. The engine charakteristics are very different. NA6 116HP low torque and HP in RPM under 4000 but at higher rpms above that you geht this litte kick that gives you the feeling of "the engine lives" NA6 90 HP you feel more torque in the low end you think yeah this is a good working 1.6 but than you reach rpms above 4000 and there is no kick and not woow effect like the 115 its just slow :D NA8 131 HP the same feeling like the 90 HP but the engine is also happier over 4000 rpm but it dosn't have the great " the power kick in" feeling like the 115 its doing its job with a bit less emotion (i think that's why many people say the 1.6 feels more snappy and revs happier you don't have this wake up moment like the 115 HP)
You'd have to swap heads over from a VVT to the BP4W bottom end, and the oil supply line, as well as run the wire for VVT control to your standalone ECU.
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The first half 95 blocks also have the oil/water feeds. second half 95 and later get rid of them.
Super useful for using as a turbo oil feed.
Good tip!
Yeah, it's an extra hassle, but drilling and tapping a feed isn't that big a deal. It wouldn't be a factor for me if I was choosing a block.
This video was great, you should definitely do a video comparing diffident engine swaps (LS, K, etc.) that what advantages, disadvantages and cost and when its better to just go with a built stock engine for the same power goals. I feel like that would be an interesting video.
I could. I'd be a little jaded/biased as I've only had the K swap, and not an LS or V6 kit so I can't speak to those as well.
Few things for the 1.6
-Nb6 cams and lifters cant just be swapped in unless you cut off the drive for the cam angle sensor and weld it onto the Nb6 cams
-The automatic Na6 has variable TPS and the NB6
-You can safely bore all 1.6 blocks to 81mm which gives you 1720cc and can use B16a or 4Age pistons(some machining but fairly cheap).
-People in Europe and pretty much anywhere but the US have a bolt on head swap with better port angle and flow in VVT and non VVT in the ZL-VE and ZM or Z5 BJ familia motors.
-The stock hydraulic lifters are easily converted to solid without shim by replacing the internal of the lifter using a piece of steel tube or rod and then you can buy cams or get them ground.
-Factory crank is 83.6mm stroke stock but you can get from B5ZE or ZLVE(certain models in the B5 only due to rod big end dia) which gives you a short stroke motor 77 or 78mm and mix that with 81mm 4AGE pistons creates a 11:1 compression engine for cheap with the same bore/stroke as a 4age which is advantages for revving on Natural aspiration
I have a B6 from 92 with 121whp at 8100rpm and the torque holds well to over 7000rpm with only cams, valve springs and ITBs no porting or anything. I think the rev happy thing is true purely due to weight of rotating assembly but that isnt something that relates to power but is something you feel when driving.
Sounds like a lot of work when you can just throw in a 1.8 😘
Great info
@@NappMotorsports Availability. You guys didn't get the 1.6. In the UK we have tons of them so the whole 1.6 vs 1.8 thing doesn't make sense here, our cars rust like crazy so you're far better buying on the condition of literally everything else lol.
Awesome info! I’ve got a 94 block and VVT head + flat top i/m that I’m putting together this winter. All the benefits of the VVT head but with easy to access oil and water lines in the block.
I wish I had known earlier that the main bearing support plate could be used on the earlier blocks! I already had my oil return fitting welded into my 94 pan. But it sounds like the support plate isn’t super crucial at sub 300 hp levels.
That's a great combo actually! And don't worry about the MBSP, I don't really know how much value it adds, and people are making 400hp without it.
Muy buena información se puede poner un motor 1,8 en un auto que tiene un 1,6 gracias saludos
Holy cow thank you for all the knowledge! Going to have to reference this for a turbo build!
Always appreciate the mini master classes of information you put out.
God speed and good journey!
*Curently tinkering on a NA 1.8 1995 R-Pachage all Black* 👊🤓
P.S. That impression was pretty dang good, funny too.
Nice! Glad you enjoyed the video!
People really don’t get the pros of VVT even if turboing can change the power band drastically
Great video, miata guys are lucky to have ya!
Thanks!
discovered your channel recently. good info and good presentation skill. keep it up man!
Thanks!
I have a 88 323 GTX with a engine/tranny from front cut JDM 323 GTR. (stock Factory 210 HP). I used the 99 protege head on and had the flow restriction bumps ground down.
One thing you did not mention is windage trays in the oil pan. The GTR motor comes with a windage tray from the factory. Nice to have in a vehicle experience extensive time in high lateral G conditions.
Great informative video.
All the best,
M.
There wasn’t an oem option for our oil pans on the Miata’s with a windage tray.
Bought a NA VVT Swapped car, my first Miata and I love it. It's has some bugs I have to work out but flat out it takes a beating, part throttle needs tunning. Keep the videos coming love the content.
Right on!
love this channel how hard you go into miatas
Thanks man!
I currently have a nb 1.6 here in ireland love the car and hoping to turbo this engine sometime next year shooting for 200hp however I do have a spare nb 1.6 i was considering building but after this I think I will have to find a 1.8vvt motor only thing that scares me is wiring time to face my fears i guess. thanks for the great video keep up the good work. :D
Just keep a 1.6 in it. You'll never have any regrets ❤
I'll be putting out a video on how to properly VVT swap your car as well, it's super simple!
Glad to hear its simple I look forward to seeing the video :D
@@NappMotorsports how about transforming the 1.6 to a 1.6 vvt...
Hello my Irish brother. Keep the 1.6. I have a turbo '91 1.6 that's been making 220hp reliably for the last 13k miles on stock internals. Plan on going forged and mildly porting the head over the winter and shooting for more. 1.6 gang up 💪💪
Great technical overview! 🔧
Thanks!
Great video and sharing of your knowledge. Been watching your videos since picking up a ‘92 Miata and arrangements are made to picking up a ‘03 Miata parts car next month. Was wondering if you have a video covering the topic of what is required to move the 2003’s 1.8 with 6spd into the ‘92 Miata.
All you need to do is cut the bullet style connectors off the 5 speed and crimp them onto the 6 speed (the sensor with the black plug). There is no polarity so it doesn’t matter which one goes where. Also take your speed sensor out (1 10mm bolt at the bottom/back of the trans) and slide that gear assembly out. Swap that into the 6 speed and it’s converted.
Great Video glad to see you back!!!!
Hey, thanks!
rn im turboing my stock 1.6 NB Engine and building a spare 1.8 BP4W just to piss people off 😁
although i could go for a built VVT, i just dont like the fact it will blow my 6 speed at peak torque as the BP4W is (also like flyinmiata said) better to tune on making horsepower until 8k rpm, which is the best of both worlds - a „revhappy“ 1.8 👌🏽
A VVT will not blow your trans faster than a BP4W. Peak torque is like 10 ft-lbs more.
@@NappMotorsportsi know for a fact that the risk of breaking anything on the drivetrain from wheel hop is higher, because of the extra lowend torque a VVT generates, im simply against it for my purpose
its obvious that almost everyone building a VVT goes for „max hp“ when its forged, im just looking to stretch the powerband
+u have the option of a nice 323gtr valve cover on a bp4w 😁
all based on 4 years of research and decsionmaking
@@NappMotorsports turbo is a g25 550, so u know im sliding on the torque limit
Why would anyone be pissed..
I put a turbo on my 1999 NB and I still love learning new to me information on this car. Next year I'm gonna take it out and build the bottom end. I have a td04 turbo set up on mine (probably one of the very few stateside that I've seen/know of lol) with the td04 turbo stuff from BOFI racing.
Nice!
Na6 had different compression ratios based off of transmission. The automatic transmission could not handle the power. Thus Mazda used different rings and pistons to lower the compression ratio and lower the power output. 1990-92 had lower hp than 93. The most power you could get was out of a 1993 manual transmission. This had the highest horse power and compression ratio.
Still all less than a 1.8 💅
I have a short nose 1.6 in my miata. I agree with you. The 1.8's are both better engines. Have driven several cars with those engines. For daily and spirited driving, just a better setup wiht the extra torque and HP. I live in Norway, where the laws about turboing cars are strict. I will probably engine swap mine to a BP4W because i get to re-seal the engine and just know that everything works, but not build it. No need since i can't legaly get the car registered with more than about 136hp. So lumping the car through registration, and then tuning it up to about 220hp. I'll be happy with that. Thanks for great content! :)
Nice! Even 1.8 swaps alone are good fun.
What a great video! What is your opinion on rpm limit between the BP4W and the VVT? From what I have read the VVT intake cam suffers from resonance above 7400 rpm. What is you experience on this?
I have a 10AE with the BP5A engine swapped for a VVT. 157whp and rev limit of (yes indeed) 7400 rpm.
I used to autocross a VVT swapped NA, and I had no issues of valve float until around 8000 rpm. YMMV but I had no issues at 7400.
Great info, but I won't lie. I was hoping this was going to be a comparison between NA, NB, NC, and ND motors.
Thanks. That's a bit different as the engines aren't swappable (as easily), whereas the NA and NB can swap the engines around.
Thanks for the information. Possibly in a year or two getting a car for track weekends HPDE fun for myself and my boys. The engine will be last but seeing where I should start. I guess the NB2 car is at the top to buy for sort of cheap fun.
I am currently collecting the parts needed for an itb bp4w swap on an na6, when I was looking for cams for the vvt motor the selection just wasnt as good and i ended up with a very clean bp4w so i don't have many regrets, I ended up going for marufa 264's and I'll be using the vvt pistons and a head shave to bump up the compression to 11:1 or so but if I was building again I'd probably go for the vvt engine with the 270 cat cams. Great video though, very informative
Nice, sounds like a fun build!
I have an 02 NB Series 3 VVT engine (Australia) completely stock internals with a GT2560R Running about 10PSI, about 165rwKW and 240nm at the wheels - Never missed a beat with a really good tune, although I'd love to know the limits of stock internals cause I want more boost. Do you know the limits of these engines when stock, the VVT BP-ZE in particular?
250 ft lbs is the gentleman’s agreement of capability for the stock rods.
i couldnt imagine not having vvt for my 400hp street car. the low end just makes it so much nicer to drive around normally. i imagine theres a bit more of an argument for non vvt for racing applications but realistically vvt is the way to go
I'd argue it's more important for racing! Gets you out of the pocket faster in a corner if you have more low end torque.
Now I'm considering doing a swap again (just need to find the time and save up a bit) I don't mind my 1.6, but I know that long term its a limiting factor. If it wasn't for the fact I found an amazingly clean 1990 (low miles, immacualte service records, etc) , I would have held out for something with a 1.8 in it.
The NA6 interior is my favorite, so the best path is putting a 1.8 in the 1.6 chassis.
I’ve owned 7 Miata’s so far… the VVT is definitely the “best”. You can really feel the mid range and hear it breathing more like a Honda motor. I will say I really enjoyed driving a 1.6 through West Virginia though, it has character and does feel genuinely zingy, full throttle time is always rewarding. I personally would love to drive the ND 1.5 just to experience what the mazda engineers intended.
The ND 1.5 is a really nice engine and was definitely zingier than the ND1 2.0, though obviously didn't have the low and mid range torque. The 2-litre in the ND2 is much closer to the 1.5 in character, has more of that revvy feel.
They can all be fun, but the torque of the 1.8 just takes the cake.
Over here in Australia, we got the best of all worlds for the VVT. Ours were basically the same as the JDM cars, with the square top intake manifold, freer flowing exhaust manifolds, and the higher compression ratio. Like the JDMs, the AUDM cars made roughly 152 hp, compared to the 146 ish the US got from factory. Least that's what Mazda quotes lmao.
Plus Aus got something real special. Over here was the SP MX5. A VVT NB2, turbo from factory (Only for the 2002 model year, in 2004 the Mazdaspeed released, or in Aus just called the SE). Making roughly 200 to 210 HP, and it remains as the highest power MX5 to be produced from factory to this day, and was the first factory turbo MX5 since the Mazdaspeed didn't release till 2004. Though oddly the SE in Australia made 10 less hp compared to the Mazdaspeed in the US. Apparently they ran only 7.25 psi of boost, instead of the 8.5 PSI the USDM and JDM variant got. Not entirely sure why that was.
Nice!
What do you think of an in-vehicle semi-rebuild? I have higher-compression racing pistons and rods, which will increase compression from 9/1 to 11/1, as well as better-flowing parts. I already need to tear apart the rear end. A bar broke off at a weak spot and will be replaced with a much stronger RX7 cover. The engine is in good shape but probably needs some light-honing to get decent cross-hatching.
The 1.6 just has charisma its hard to explain. Its the special sauce that makes 1.6 cars more fun
But they aren’t more fun
The 116 HP Miata 1.6 DOHC motor from 1990-1993 is a normally aspirated version of that 323 turbo engine. It mainly differs from the turbo counterpart in higher compression pistons (to 9.4:1), lighter connecting rods and a lighter flywheel. This means that the NA version of the motor is quite over engineered for its applications. (how many NA motors do you know have oil spray cooling for the pistons). The automatic transmission version of the 1.6 DOHC engine has lower compression pistons to 9.0:1 and the camshafts have less duration. These changes were done for the automatic version to gain torque at a lower rpm and minimize detonation from the torque eating trans. The tradeoff is a less peak HP rating of 100. In 1991 a running change was made to the crank design from repeated failures of the pulley keyway. The pre-91 motors had a 22mm crank snout while the late 1991 and later had 27mm crank snouts. The 1.6 DOHC motor lived on in the Mercury Capri and XR2 until 1995.
👍🏽
Thoughts on BP4W head on NA8 block? I’ve got that set up plus a square top and Rotrex kit I’ll be working on this winter.
Solid option. The benefits of the BP4W are in the head. Bottom ends are pretty much the same
Great video, looking to perhaps buy a cheap NB soon with the intention of jacking with it, is it possible to adapt the VVT to a BP4W? Intending to get about 180WHP NA if I go through with it, what would you recommend to reach that goal with trackday reliability in mind. And how much would a build like that cost if it were to have ITBs, 8k RPM?
You can put a VVT head on a BP4W.
Have you thought about doing electric water pump and reverse flow? It's something i'm considering due to space constraints with the stock WP inlet.
I haven't seen a need yet myself?
Pretty informative. I have a 90 and I’m trying to decide where to go with my build. You guys should do a video on diffs. That’s where I’m stuck. I’ve read different things about say the 7” diff will handle. Would it take a mostly stock 1.8vvt?
I could, I don't have any on hand right now but I might be able to borrow some from some friends to make a video.
I do believe the NA 1.8 engines still have the hydraulic lifters. The NB 1.8s only have the solid lifters. Good Video. Thanks.
Correct
Really enjoyed the vid as i'm considering an engine swap in the future since theyre nice and cheap in the uk. One question though, I have a jdm 91 1.6 theyre apparently rated at 115hp and just wondered what makes them so different to the 90hp ones?
I think he's talking at the wheels - most 1.6s whether JDM, Euro, US were all broadly in that 115 ballpark give or take a few horses, but it's more like 90 at the wheels (in a healthy engine!).
Euro and Japanese NB 1.6s were nearer 110 at the crank though I think, and when the NA 1.8 arrived, Europe also got a detuned 1.6 with only around 90 at the crank - I think that was fundamental stuff like a milder cam. No idea what they make at the wheels but probably not a lot...
I would just turbo the 1.6, bhp per pound spent it’s better than any swap. You can make 200whp easily with a bolt on kit and ECU.
Yeah I'm talking about wheel horsepower, sorry!
The later 90BHP 1.6s have different cams. I can't remember if they have the Lower compression pistons that came on the automatic cars as well.
Just to add some info.
Europe and Japan had the NB in '98. Japan also had the NB6.
Europe also got the NA 1.6 longer (till '97) with less hp (Not sure if Japan also got these), think they only differ in cams and ecu.
Europe also got the BP5A in every NB1.
The NA8 isn't like the NA6 (only the lifters and the cas), the BP4W is literally the 'facelift' of the NA8 BP.
4:08 The NB6 doesn't have the slot on the camshaft for the CAS like the NA so it doesn't work on a stock ECU.
Don't get the love for the 1.6 either. Even worst is the NB6 in europe, they have the 4.1 diff... slow af.
If you're looking for squaretop intakes let me know.
NA8 is closer to the NA6 than the BP4W in my opinion. Same casted port angle and lifter/cam style is more important than overall displacement.
Here in belguim you can also the non pop up version with a 2.0 liter instead of the normal 1.8 liter
That’s the 3rd gen. We got those here with only the 2.0L and people commonly 2.5 seal them. But that engine and the 3rd gen/NC 1.8 are different than the 1.8 and 1.6 block.
There is an interesting thread on the casting quality and a little bit difference between angles on the bp4w and vvt header.. i think on the miataturbo-forum (not sure though).. someone cut in half a few headers and compaired them.. did you see that one?
That's the one I referenced. That's actually the NA8 vs NB head diagram.
ty for not mentioning protege/escorts
cheap junkyard longblocks live on a little bit
Hahaha
I know this is just about NA/NB, but everyone secretly knows the NC's Mighty MZR is best. The iron BP block makes a fantastic anchor when you're out boating. Now where did I put my captain's hat?
I'll be doing some content on my 2.5 swap process for the NC, don't worry!
I got a 96 1.8 block with a 99 head and a 96 cam shaft on the intake side. In a 99 miata lol. More lift, less over lap and a bit lower compression. Which i like because im turbo. :).
Btw there is a site that has every years cam specs. All side by side. And it give you all the info.
👍🏽
So the 1.6 does come with a factory vtps, but only on the automatics. It's rev happier. It's more reliable. Lord have mercy, never ask a 1.8 owner why their crank wobbles. They'll be like "I thought that was only on the short nose 1.6" 😂 sike! The 1.6 makes tons of factory horsepower and torque. When I threw my stock 1.6 on the dyno with 208k miles, that torque curve was a flat pancake from 3500 to 5750 rpm. A BP6D (vvt) can't do that 💪1.6s were born for boost. Designed for the amazing 323GTX, the B6ZE loves to have a turbo strapped to it. It's the OG miata engine. The NA chassis was designed around the 1.6. Mazda knew the 1.6 was such a beast, they even made a factory turbo 1.6 LeMans edition Miata for 91 to commemorate the 787B's win at LeMans. They didn't do that for the Rx7 👀 point of the story is, the 1.6 is KING and all other opinions are objectively incorrect.
"Torque curve was flat as a pancake" - made all of 60 ft-lbs lol. This whole comment is big 1.6 king energy lmao.
Not sure if this was mentioned already but the MSM block is not quite the same as the 99-00 block. The MSM uses the same crankshaft and larger thrust washer and MBSP as all 01-05 engines. The block is the same as the 01-05 but with the water and oil ports drilled, of course 🙂
Correct!
For the most power cheaply. It's the 99-00. Better head flow. You can use volvo b20 valve spring. The cams have a longer duration. Less peaky. What's this mean. More boost. No valve float.
You still need rods, e85 you might get away with stock pistons. I'd upgrade. With e85 the stock valves are fine too. Keeps them cooler. You'll need oil pump gears and harmonic balancer.
I'm running 20psi from a efr. Same setup 300whp going in 3 years. Runs perfect. Oil filter is always pretty clean.
I'd argue VVT for the most power cheaply. Same head flow, you can use volvo springs, and I've pushed them and they don't have valve float until around 8000 rpm.
@crx22honda37 this sounds like a good setup, what rpm are you maxing at
@btugaming9991 7300. It's 6258efr. All the boost by 3600ish
Love the part where "the camera died" Was unbearable listening to someone struggle to describe a boat anchor. Great info as always!
😂😂😂
I'll view this evening... My jdm BP4W has the MSM intake cam from the factory...
It should!
Bought a vvt from overseas and it came with a square top 😎
Nice
Keep in mind when swapping a 1.8 into an NA6 that you can use your current ECU with a BP4W but not a VVT.
Obviously if you are going FI then everything changes.
If you’re going “stock” then this might be a consideration
You're also losing a ton of potential by not doing a standalone ECU.
NA8 has more in common with the BP4W and VVT, only difference is the cylinder head, sensors and some internals
That's a lot different haha. Being a totally different casting (that's more similar in every way to the 1.6) is unfixable. You could not get BP4W or VVT flow out of a NA8 head.
@@NappMotorsports A BP4W or VVT head will bolt onto an NA8 block though, there is no compatibility between the NA6 and NA8 engines, they are completely different.
Assuming you don’t answer this in the video, i have a 1.8 with BP2 stamped on the back of the block. I’ve looked online everywhere and I’ve found sources that say bp2 is for many different years. What’s up with BP2?
1992 1.6 with a built motor, 196 bhp at tge fly on throttle bodies (cross checked on two dynos). It's a great engine. So is my 1.8 turbo, just different flavours of the same great snack
😬
I’m cheap and I like the bp4w because I can run regular gas! 😅
You can run regular gas on a VVT...
@@NappMotorsports with knock sure but not recommended
I spun a bearing in my 93 na6, ended up building the bottom end, forged rods and pistons, lower comp, upgraded oil pump... if i theoretically wanted to do a 250-300hp turbo build with what i have, what else should i do to it?
That should be able to take you to 300 no problem.
whats your comp?
If you have the knowledge, you should do a video on the 1990-1994 Proteges. They are 1.8 blocks with either a SOHC or DOHC head. I think the 323s have 1.6 engines, as did the mx-3. My 92 protege has the oil and coolant feed ports, maybe i should put a turbo on it :P . Theres a bunch of other cars that have BP engines.
Good crossover, but not something I've had to come across.
I have a 2002 miata so it’s a vvt motor. What can I make at the wheels naturally aspirated without opening up motor with tuning an bolt-ons?
Good intake and header/exhaust could net you around 140-150whp
So the real best is the vvt head on the bp4w block to get the stock oil and water ports. Also, I didnt realize the mazdaspeed engine was more valued than the other 1.8s. I guess keeping the second mazdaspeed motor is more of an investment than I thought!
The stock ports aren’t that great of an addition, especially when you consider the VVT bottom end has higher compression pistons factory, and a main bearing support plate. Oil and water are super easy to source from other places on the block.
I Got a mazda familia 323 gtr wrc bp08 block with the forged crank , big oil cooler sodium exhaust filled valves with orange stripe forged rods and more aggressive cams
Nice
Watching all of these episodes of NA6 slander make me glad to be swapping a VVT and a Torsen into my NA6
Lets gooooo
1.8 owners smol pp tho **
@@batousan_ this man didn't watch the video
I want something that'll be daily-able boosted at 200-220bhp (that number because I can't afford to build the engine or replace the 5-speed yet)
Turbocharging a nb6 atm, but once it blows up, another nb6 with na goes in, im not building another 1.6-1.8 turbo, will go like k20 or bigger instead
K swaps are cool, but also extremely expensive and have a lot of quirks.
@@NappMotorsports yeah i guess you are right, im planning ahead like 5 years 😂
1.6 itb sounds awesome but i want to do donuts, hence turbo 😂
I really wanna 1.8 swap my na (and keep my 1.6 as a backup or for a supercharger build).
But I'll most likely go with a BP4W and build that with higher compression, a maruha 87mm crank and ITBs.
All that just because the VVTs are quite rate and expensive here in Germany
You won’t regret swapping it
I bet you'll want to supercharge the 1.8 instead. The only logical thing to do 🤷
And if it's done right you won't regret it. Sell the 1.6 and use the extra cash to add more upgrades towards your new supercharge to improve a healthier engine bay to make it smoother for the long haul. Good luck!
My question is now, which of these engines should go in my 323/familia? 🧐
VVT
The 1.6 is great and fun engine. Drove a few different Miata’s and I really do enjoy the 1.6 on some twisty roads. Really though all engines are great for different people and there goals with the car.
Yea it's rev happier!!!
The 1.6 is great, if the 1.8 didn't exist.
Glad I just bought my second vvt engine before this video came out 😂 gonna inflate those prices above the msm 1.8
Hahaha I don't think I'm popular enough to change the pricing forecast of VVT's based on one of my videos
Yes I have a 95 Mazda Miata 1.8 I would like to have it boosted but I'm not sure by your comments if that's the right choice or not
Depends on what power you’re trying to make. If it’s less than 250, just boost what you have.
@@NappMotorsports I'm looking for a 275 not 300 anywhere close Don't want to have to change out the transmission or rear end if I go over 300 hp
Can you convert the bp05 with a bp4w head to crank and cam angle sensor instead of using the rear mounted cas?
Yes. Super common with swaps. There’s some good wiring resources online.
@@NappMotorsports any chance you could shoot through some links?
So much good info. Didn’t know about the euro stuff. Not that I’ll ever own one either lol.
-love the 1.6 slander BUT I will say something. the hate the short nose one gets with its crank wobble issues is plain stupid. I’ve had multiple 1.8s with bad keyways, people need to learn the big crank bolt is supposed to be very tight.
Torque specs are important.
You know if the mazda lantis/323f ba 94-98 as a 1.8 bp engine, will fit bp5a cam? What mod should or can i use for them.
I was teel that they are similar to bp4w.
No idea, I've never worked with that engine before.
Cool video
Thanks for info 👍
No problem!
Two questions. 1st, what years of Miata have the vvt? You skipped that in the video. 2nd: have you considered doing a video of 'best bang for your buck' or ' a progression of where to start and a logical path of adding to your motor over the seasons?' I don't have the dough to drop in a $10k or $15k motor. But if for example, I wanted to start with base level VVT, then start adding mods to it, what order of upgrades would make the most sense. Hopefully that makes sense. I have some interest in building a Locost/Lotus, but the motor is something I am still learning about.
01-05, and I could possibly do that.
@@NappMotorsports thanks. Look forward to that new video! Keep up the great work.
So I was listening taking notes... First thanks for sharing the insight. Second, could one just put a bp4w head on a b4d6? I mean I agree, but in a pinch, could they do it?
B4D6? If you mean a 1.6, then no. The blocks are shorter than 1.8’s. You can put any 1.8 head on and 1.8 block.
I just picked up a 2001 1.8 vvt as my new daily over my 2012 sti.. what coil on plug setup do you recommend?
Looks like he’s using R8 coils on these engines
@@konradgeorgeson hmm i am new to miatas.. so i know nothing.. there has to be a kit to convert the 2 coil pack/2 wire OE setup to 4 packs..
Flow force
You need an aftermarket ECU to run individual coils.
I recommend the FlowForce kit. Plug and play if you have an aftermarket ECU. If you're on stock ECU, don't worry about it as the stock coils are totally fine for stock power.
Stephan gobbled me. Recommend it
Phrasing!
@NappMotorsports sorry I couldn't help myself! I'll stop now. Lol. Seriously though, Looking forward to getting my hands on the K24 intake tube! Take your time, engine isn't even in the car yet... I gotta get cracking.
I went from a 1.6 to a VVT, and I gotta say that I like the VVT more. With the flat top, cobra intake, headers, and a high flow cat/exhaust I'm making about 140whp, but leagues more midrange than a 1.6 could ever hope to have. So far it's my favorite setup, but I'll see how that holds, once I get my Rotrex kit on
Sorry for your loss. Turbo 1.6 > rotrex vvt
Yesssssss! Love to hear it.
I dont have the knowledge, but is it possible to gain hp throwing a bp4w head to a 1.6??
The 1.6 is a shorter block, so the 1.8 (BP4W included) heads will not fit onto it.
My stock '04 has the 1.8 vvt and factory intake manifold. Will the performance improve any if I install a squaretop intake? Or vwould I need to run forced induction to take advantage of the squaretop?
Similar but different, we swapped a VVT build from the factory 01-05 intake manifold over to a skunk2 (slightly better than squaretop) and a bigger throttle body and the car (when tuned for it) gained 15 whp. So there's definitely a benefit, I'm not sure if you'll feel it without a tune though.
If someone had a MSM and wanted around 450-500whp, done right the first time built for absolute abuse, would you suggest building the stock motor or swapping to the VVT?
You're safe keeping the MSM engine since it has the MBSP upgrades and all that.
@@NappMotorsports you think ill be good with just a Rod/pistons/main bearing upgrade everything else oem?
Hey mate, I have a 2001 VVT Australian delivery miata, and in need of another intake cam gear as my brother stole mine off my vehicle after engine swapping his NA.
I wanted to know if the BP4w 99-2000 cam gear is compatible with mine, any advice is appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
They are not compatible.
The real question is how everything is so clean 😭
Lots of time and effort.
Nice thumbnail!
Thanks for the assist
Completely agree, turbo'd a 1.6 then blew it up. Went to a turbo VVT and the boost comes on like 700-800 RPM sooner and does it with less effort.
Sorry for your loss 😢
VVT is best
What is a average price to build a vvt
Excluding a core, a longblock will run you $8500 starting for parts/machining/labor
Good food for thought, you've added to the whole ive dug in my head on things to do with my car. Ha :/
😂
Fine fine thats why I got a 2000 bp4w ready for you to build.
I'm ready whenever you are!
Question. With the stock oem bottom end on all 3 of the motors (fresh) what are the max hp limits if boosted?
250hp
I’m looking at buying a Miata 1.8 but has lifter tick. Did you say they dive have hydronic lifters?
94-97 1.8's had hydraulic lifters and are prone to lifter tick. The 99-05's don't.
Thank you sir your video saved me from a not good purchase. So it has engine problems. Like the videos. Want to get two and build a weekend warrior.
I have a 91 1.6 and want to go NA and build a fun car and not for all out power. Since the jdm vvt has the sqaure top manifold and higher compression would that be a better starting platform then switching the manifold on a vvt. I don't want to lose cruise control, ac or power steering and can't switch to a non mazda motor because I still like to autocross sometimes. I also have 3 work trucks and four trailers but prefer to drive to the track as it it less hassle then trying to get my car on the trailer. s the jdm motor with a standalone ecu worth the extra price worth it over a us junkyard motor and then switching out the manifold. I want to go for the easiest plug and play swap that gives me the most na without opening up the motor or losing stop and go driveability.
If you aren't doing anything to the engine besides dropping it in, then the JDM VVT is the better one to start with for sure.
@@NappMotorsports ok thank you for the advice. I need to ship my car from Atlanta to your shop when I'm ready!
Great video
Thanks!
I have a turbo na8 currently making 230bhp that I plan to forge and aim for 280 to 300 bhp , would it also be a good idea just swapping on a vvt head while doing this and installing bottom end bearing support on na block or should I swap out complete engine for a forged vvt?
The head will do 99% of the work
@@NappMotorsportsok thanks
Only engine you forgot: NAFL6 (NA facelift) 1.6 engine with 90 Hp. Just a Europe thing.
I mention it as the NB 1.6. Somehow makes less power than the already lethargic NA 1.6
@@NappMotorsports The later Euro2 emission Engine in the NA6 had just 9,0:1 compression Ratio with other cams and 90 HP. The NB 1.6 hat the same compression Ratio like the 89-93 1.6 but was rated with 110 HP.
I put some the chips from some European 1.6 90 HP Stock ECUs with my eprom reader and looked for timing tables. Some of them after 1996 run only 17-18 degree of timing at redline. The Camshaft from the 90 HP are also different so they make more torque in low and mid range. In combination with the 4.1 rear end in this cars its more a cruiser car than a happy reving sports car.
Funfact i have a NA6 115 HP a NA6 90 HP and a NA8 131 HP. The engine charakteristics are very different.
NA6 116HP low torque and HP in RPM under 4000 but at higher rpms above that you geht this litte kick that gives you the feeling of "the engine lives"
NA6 90 HP you feel more torque in the low end you think yeah this is a good working 1.6 but than you reach rpms above 4000 and there is no kick and not woow effect like the 115 its just slow :D
NA8 131 HP the same feeling like the 90 HP but the engine is also happier over 4000 rpm but it dosn't have the great " the power kick in" feeling like the 115 its doing its job with a bit less emotion (i think that's why many people say the 1.6 feels more snappy and revs happier you don't have this wake up moment like the 115 HP)
Great video!!!! Vvt ftw! 😉
VVT Gang lets goooo!
After summarizing all this, we conclude that the 1.6 is the best engine :D
bruh
Where do you rank the nc motors amongst these?
Not really comparable because they don’t swap into the same chassis.
Is there much difference between the Japanese engines in the eunos?
The only one I know is JDM VVT is 10.5:1 instead of 10:1
94-97 swapping & getting rid of my 1.6 short nose this winter, good riddance!
Awesome!
Hold up. I thought I have BP4W (as it said that on oil dipstick), however it IS a VVT. I'm confused now
99-05 dipsticks all day BP4W
Once my 1.6 goes bye bye I’m definitely getting a NB6
Nooo. VVT swap the world
Lmao that's actually what I did. Managed to buy a fully forged NB6 engine for a really good price. No regrets.
@@NappMotorsports VVT no
I have a 2003 vvt. Would I need an aftermarket ECU to switch to a skunk2 manifold?
You won’t really get much gain without aftermarket ECU vs a stock flat top VVT intake.
@@foamdataservices yeah I was curious about that. Thanks
Yeah you'd want to tune for it to really get the benefit.
@@NappMotorsports would I get a check engine light? It removes the VICS system I believe.
any info on adding VVT onto BP4W? thanks
You'd have to swap heads over from a VVT to the BP4W bottom end, and the oil supply line, as well as run the wire for VVT control to your standalone ECU.
1.6 is best because it’s cheap
Cheap, powerful, reliable, and it always hurts the 1.8 boys when they lose to one.
Where are you from? I'm from germany. 1.6 115hp are quite rare. Price is mostly the same as 1.8 (about 600/700€)
@@str8slayn1cheap (but not much cheaper than the 1.8), powerful (but not as powerful as the 1.8), and reliable (but not as reliable as the 1.8)
@surewhynot6259 gets it.
cheaper is not better, sounds like LS 🗑️ thinking