I know everyone comments some tip or trick but I learn a lot of TH-cam. Definitely make a hinge jig and a mini router lad. No offence but I would have done it twice as quick by batch cutting all the frames and doors with a hinge jig. Robin clevett had some good videos. Also with them door linings put a 2-3mm packer in the trench. Then you don’t have to plane the door. You should never have to get the planer out in fresh linings. I’ve had my say great videos pal.
Hi mate I'm an old joiner just got a little tip for you Mark your hinges on an old door stop and put a screw in the top that will create a gap between door and frame you can then mark doors and frames without measuring again and you can use again and again hope this helps Good luck with the videos
When you put good energy into the world it comes back mate, you never know when but it will You’ve helped a lot of people, some who know how much you’ve helped them, and some you don’t Keep doing what your doing bro 👊🏻
Great videos, keep them coming and the pricing. I lived in the UK for 60 years, now living and running a business in France. You obviously work very hard and disserve all your success. I thought I was going to retire over here, but I love working and doing jobs for customers. I think working hard is in your blood and its hard to stop. Keep up the great work, but most of all enjoy what you do.
No matter what you do lad we pick up tips..... just seen you use a 4x2 to hold down when you cut wedges on the miter saw great idea saves the fingers ... so you see you never know how your actions help ..... but They do! You post video's when you can lad and thanks I enjoy them 🙂👍🏴
Wee tip I use for linings, get an uncut corner of a sheet of mdf or ply and cut a 500x500 triangle out it and use the jigsaw to cut a handle. Handier for making sure the top is square instead of setting up all your lasers and you can just use one to line down the hinge side. 👍
Nice job but I would ask why have you not fire stopped between the frame and the walls. You may have installed fire doors and smoke seal but a frame should also be correctly fire stopped otherwise smoke or flames will pass through the weakest point first.
Good video’s bro. I really love to see how you started a couple of years ago and see the progression you make. It inspires me because I want to be self employed in the near future. I have a good job now and I want to start a couple of days a week as a self employed. When you started, you bought your van directly?
I got charged £1400 for an external fire door to a flat leading to a communal landing. The only additions where a letter box and door closer. The buy did it in the same time
Hi great vid, if fire doors, what closer was used on them and also do you not have to use screws and glue on door stops instead of nails for fire regs?
Not being thick but I'm looking to set up my own business in the new year and tax is what puts me off. How would they know you were out of home for 10 hrs.
As always mate, love the channel and the work you complete..looking at your green line laser, it looks a decent bit of kit..are you allowed to mention the make, would love a extra one.
I was always under the impression that fire door stops needed to be screwed rather than nailed?! Also the edges of the linings between the lining and the wall need to be fire foamed in?! Also the seals need to be smoke and heat seals with the brush type not the flat type?! Nice work
Great videos! How do u avoid to twist door frame? I was fitting doors first time, but all openings were non-standard, and I had to adjust door frames and doors to fit in. I watched probably 20 videos including yours how to do it properly. I'm still learning, so it's good to see some tips and tricks online. Back to my problem with door frames. When I fit it and everything was square and plumb, I cut doors to size. Then I router hinges on doors and then on frames. When I hang doors, I realized my frame is a bit twisted and doors doesn't close properly, and I had to adjust the frame and loose a few screws. I had the same problem with all 4 doors and I think I probably had too big gaps between frame and studs, about 1.5-2cm each side. Luckily everything was fine, and it all looks good, but it took me a long time to fit them and that's pisses me off a bit. Any advice how to speed up this process? Do you usually fit non-standard size doors too and have to adjust everything? Thanks for your time and keep doing good videos :)
That all come in time with practice and experience. If I fit new linings I use a 6ft level to perfectly plumd the hinge side. I then hang the door and adjust the jam side accordingly. Everyone has there own way of doing things.
Most of the time I've fitted a fire door I gave put in a new lining at the same time. Because the four is square to begin with I just level the header to the top to get the clearance.
To see if they are in wind/twisted, if possible you need to eye one door lining jam with the other, you have to stand at an acute angle to the lining, eye one jam with the other, make sure as you eye them both that they are parallel with each other, you can slowly move your head across until the top of one jam lines up with the top of the other, as you move your head and they line up/touch check with your sighting all the way down the jam to see if the bottom is also in line, once both the jams perfectly line up sighting them through with your eye you then know they cannot be twisted, in some situations like a corridor you cannot get your body/eyesight in a position to line them up... there is a trick with a string line for this situation but i've not had to do that for a long time so cannot remember the method completely
@@nascorob is the method adding string lines to to top LH corner and to the bottom RH corner and repeat on the opposite side to creaet and X. When the 2 lines intersect then should just kiss one another .
I can remember working on building sites and hanging every door in the 4 bed house in a day with just hand tools as it was the late 70s early 80s and no power tool and no power on the sites anyway
You say make door frames, but you never do. your just assembling them. Your saying the kits are too expensive ? Why dont you start making your own ? Keep the videos coming .
I went on a training course two months ago on fitting fire doors, he goes there's no point putting hinges in the middle of the door and put two hinges at the top and one at bottom. Said the middle one don't do nothing for support of the door
Depends. Employed? Probably 22-26k entry level. Self employed? However much work you can obtain. Assume you fill out your week, factoring in tax, insurance and tool costs 40k+ is achievable.
Good work bro. One Little tip the plaster board should almost always overlap to about ½ over the door rather than flush with the frame to prevent cracking when the door opens and closes.
@@tonyorme1894 thats maybe true however best practice is letting the plaster board over lap for strength in addition to maintain the aesthetic in the event of a settlement
@@kevocos lol I hope your responding from a place of knowing and not emotion. These are not my standard its not me making up rules its best practice established for many years.
@@go-toolzreviews There is no regular situation, as in the video, where plasterboard should overlap the door frame about 1/2". There may be some proprietary frameless solution that calls for it (although I have never seen one that does) and regardless that is an entirely different scenario.
fire door frame should had fire sealant or fire foam door stops should be glue and screw and fine door rated ironmongery that his what told to do by building control
put in the description i did go back and foam , i was never told doors stops needed to be glued and screws but thankyou for all this advice i appreciate it
paint affects efficiency of the intumescent strips expanding if there is a fire so they should always be fitted last (after frame is painted/finished), if you read the door CF spec they all state that @@Tl-rk3et
I undercoat/primer the door edges before fitting the int strips then fit the strips and then if the painter is decent there do a good job glossing the door edges
I like your videos very much , I’m here in 🇨🇦 Canada , former Brit , good stuff mate
I know everyone comments some tip or trick but I learn a lot of TH-cam. Definitely make a hinge jig and a mini router lad. No offence but I would have done it twice as quick by batch cutting all the frames and doors with a hinge jig. Robin clevett had some good videos. Also with them door linings put a 2-3mm packer in the trench. Then you don’t have to plane the door. You should never have to get the planer out in fresh linings. I’ve had my say great videos pal.
Hi mate I'm an old joiner just got a little tip for you
Mark your hinges on an old door stop and put a screw in the top that will create a gap between door and frame you can then mark doors and frames without measuring again and you can use again and again hope this helps
Good luck with the videos
When you put good energy into the world it comes back mate, you never know when but it will
You’ve helped a lot of people, some who know how much you’ve helped them, and some you don’t
Keep doing what your doing bro 👊🏻
Great videos, keep them coming and the pricing. I lived in the UK for 60 years, now living and running a business in France. You obviously work very hard and disserve all your success. I thought I was going to retire over here, but I love working and doing jobs for customers. I think working hard is in your blood and its hard to stop. Keep up the great work, but most of all enjoy what you do.
No matter what you do lad we pick up tips..... just seen you use a 4x2 to hold down when you cut wedges on the miter saw great idea saves the fingers ... so you see you never know how your actions help ..... but They do! You post video's when you can lad and thanks I enjoy them 🙂👍🏴
thankyou really appreciate this comment
Wee tip I use for linings, get an uncut corner of a sheet of mdf or ply and cut a 500x500 triangle out it and use the jigsaw to cut a handle. Handier for making sure the top is square instead of setting up all your lasers and you can just use one to line down the hinge side. 👍
thanks matey i’ll try this out
would you do that for both top corners LH and RH?
@@JayG2K you can do but if one is square at least 500mm along it will be ok usually I’ve found. Helps speed things up a bit if you have a few to do.
You are a victim of your own Success!!! Congratulations on your great videos.💪
thankyou mate
Love the work keep it up!!!!
Thanks mate I appreciate this comment
Iv just read an article in the Sun about you bro!!!! They called you a “Labourer” 😂😂
Your work is paying off if your hitting the tabloids.
serious ???
literally just seen this i didn’t even know 😅😮💨
Everyone’s gonna want there doors fitting for £20 now, you’ve made a rod for your own back 😂😂
Can’t grumble at free publicity
Full video on fire door fitting if possible would be great , keep up the great work just post the videos as when ya can don’t restrict ya self
There are 24 hours in every day & sleep takes up 8. Use your time wisely. It's not a race. Nice hoodie 👌
i agree very very true using time management is the 100% most important thing in being successful
Good video it cracks me up how you started your video that you were running a little late next clip your in Tesco's getting your meal deal 😂
Yes please more videos 😊
🫡 will do
Nice job but I would ask why have you not fire stopped between the frame and the walls. You may have installed fire doors and smoke seal but a frame should also be correctly fire stopped otherwise smoke or flames will pass through the weakest point first.
Yes agree with what you say. Would B2 fre are foam suffice?
Good video’s bro. I really love to see how you started a couple of years ago and see the progression you make. It inspires me because I want to be self employed in the near future. I have a good job now and I want to start a couple of days a week as a self employed. When you started, you bought your van directly?
Soft block you should use a drill bit red plug 5.5mm or brown 6.5mm thats why it spins using the normal 6mm+7mm sds.
I’d like to see you do both videos mate but definitely the stairs for me, love the videos so keep them comin
Thank you for sharing how much you charge for doing the work - Great video
If you watched the full flvidto he tells this.
@@JayG2Khe knows? 🤣
Good job👍
loving your videos bro. keep up the great content
Bit of both mate… weekly videos as well 👍🏻🙌
Easy?? lol naw you make it look easy 😂 gid job lad 👍🙂🏴
I got charged £1400 for an external fire door to a flat leading to a communal landing. The only additions where a letter box and door closer. The buy did it in the same time
his prices are way too low 21 pound an hour is way to low to be selfemployed
Hi great vid, if fire doors, what closer was used on them and also do you not have to use screws and glue on door stops instead of nails for fire regs?
You’d save a fortune if you bought a loaf at the start of the week and made your own sandwiches 😂
this is very true
But you can put on as business expenses?
@@JayG2K there’s an allowance you can get without receipts for each day if you are out the house longer than 10 hours
Not being thick but I'm looking to set up my own business in the new year and tax is what puts me off. How would they know you were out of home for 10 hrs.
@@JayG2K not sure for own business but I’m hourly rate so I can prove my hours through timesheets. It includes travel too.
Where do you get your door linings from mate ? Crackin vid as per by the way 🤘
Not sure if I’m being thick but why wouldn’t you just take 1/2 inch off the liner and the door? Rather than planing it down both sides?
Ive always used folding wedges, not random ones
Mate how much do you pay for accounting? Also good job you made it look easy.
As always mate, love the channel and the work you complete..looking at your green line laser, it looks a decent bit of kit..are you allowed to mention the make, would love a extra one.
I was always under the impression that fire door stops needed to be screwed rather than nailed?! Also the edges of the linings between the lining and the wall need to be fire foamed in?! Also the seals need to be smoke and heat seals with the brush type not the flat type?! Nice work
Hiyo! Did your van is swb or lwb ?regards looks stunning 💪🏻
What about transport cost, fuel general wear and tear of van, how much of that 500 do you take out for that. Also tool deprecation,
did you put fire packers behind door hinges, if not it wont pass
Great video but 2.15pm finish is questionable
Great videos! How do u avoid to twist door frame? I was fitting doors first time, but all openings were non-standard, and I had to adjust door frames and doors to fit in. I watched probably 20 videos including yours how to do it properly. I'm still learning, so it's good to see some tips and tricks online. Back to my problem with door frames. When I fit it and everything was square and plumb, I cut doors to size. Then I router hinges on doors and then on frames. When I hang doors, I realized my frame is a bit twisted and doors doesn't close properly, and I had to adjust the frame and loose a few screws. I had the same problem with all 4 doors and I think I probably had too big gaps between frame and studs, about 1.5-2cm each side. Luckily everything was fine, and it all looks good, but it took me a long time to fit them and that's pisses me off a bit. Any advice how to speed up this process? Do you usually fit non-standard size doors too and have to adjust everything? Thanks for your time and keep doing good videos :)
That all come in time with practice and experience.
If I fit new linings I use a 6ft level to perfectly plumd the hinge side. I then hang the door and adjust the jam side accordingly. Everyone has there own way of doing things.
@JayG2K plumb hinge side,(as suggested),,and make sure you level the header,,👍🏴👍🏴
Most of the time I've fitted a fire door I gave put in a new lining at the same time. Because the four is square to begin with I just level the header to the top to get the clearance.
To see if they are in wind/twisted, if possible you need to eye one door lining jam with the other, you have to stand at an acute angle to the lining, eye one jam with the other, make sure as you eye them both that they are parallel with each other, you can slowly move your head across until the top of one jam lines up with the top of the other, as you move your head and they line up/touch check with your sighting all the way down the jam to see if the bottom is also in line, once both the jams perfectly line up sighting them through with your eye you then know they cannot be twisted, in some situations like a corridor you cannot get your body/eyesight in a position to line them up... there is a trick with a string line for this situation but i've not had to do that for a long time so cannot remember the method completely
@@nascorob is the method adding string lines to to top LH corner and to the bottom RH corner and repeat on the opposite side to creaet and X. When the 2 lines intersect then should just kiss one another .
What is funny to me is that some carpenters say, “” oh yeah i fit 10-15 doors a day easy””
If i personally do 3-4 I’m more than happy
I can remember working on building sites and hanging every door in the 4 bed house in a day with just hand tools as it was the late 70s early 80s and no power tool and no power on the sites anyway
Do you buy the the materials first and then get reimbursed from the customer? Or do take the money from the customer first ?
You say make door frames, but you never do. your just assembling them. Your saying the kits are too expensive ? Why dont you start making your own ?
Keep the videos coming .
I'm not sure about that. If it's a fire door they have to be rated.
Hey man.
Do you ever work in London? I just brought a flat in Leytonstone and going to need some stud wall work doing soon.
Thanks
J
have you got a link for the scissors. they cut those strips quite easily. do the leave a clean square cut?
for the door stops why didnt you cut the top one first then the sides?
i normally do cut the top first tbh dunno must have just felt like doing it this way on this day 😅
Always fit top stop first,,👆🏴👍
After 2 days of sandwiches 😂😂😂 i need a curry or some fish n chip's
does anyone know about the fire door register, where you can sign up an a fire door installer so you get more work?
what do u use to get leeds/jobs bro ? do u use apps ?
Do you know how to find apprentaships
I don't normally comment but regs state that the door stop on fire doors, should be glued and screwed at 300 mm centres.
thankyou mate i was never told this on the course i done
What course did you do?
Maybe depends on where u did your course? I wasnt taught this...
Hi should you seal (varnish )hollow doors when they are fitted ?? Just asking for advice
Isn't that the painters job
I’m asking a question ie advise
Yes seal all cuts and bare wood.
great work! where do you uy your door frames from?
normally selco but i need to find cheaper than selco
🎉
There's not going to be much off those jambs exposed once that block work's dot and dsbbed.
Glad someone clocked this
Fuck second fixing this 😂
I went on a training course two months ago on fitting fire doors, he goes there's no point putting hinges in the middle of the door and put two hinges at the top and one at bottom. Said the middle one don't do nothing for support of the door
Seen it many time where there are two hinges at the top and it does make sense as that where all the weight is
why didnt u go howdens
how much do Carpenters make per year?
Depends. Employed? Probably 22-26k entry level. Self employed? However much work you can obtain. Assume you fill out your week, factoring in tax, insurance and tool costs 40k+ is achievable.
Last lining that was to big, you had your chopsaw out, why not make dado bigger, rather than planing the lining 😮
could have done this but then i would have had to take quite a lot of the door
Good work bro. One Little tip the plaster board should almost always overlap to about ½ over the door rather than flush with the frame to prevent cracking when the door opens and closes.
Plasterboard flush with doorframe width and joint covered with architrave no cracking seen
@@tonyorme1894 thats maybe true however best practice is letting the plaster board over lap for strength in addition to maintain the aesthetic in the event of a settlement
@@go-toolzreviews Plasterboard over the door frame to prevent cracking AND it strengthen the door frame!
Just stop.
@@kevocos lol I hope your responding from a place of knowing and not emotion. These are not my standard its not me making up rules its best practice established for many years.
@@go-toolzreviews There is no regular situation, as in the video, where plasterboard should overlap the door frame about 1/2". There may be some proprietary frameless solution that calls for it (although I have never seen one that does) and regardless that is an entirely different scenario.
wheres yer mate gone?
How come your using your drill to screw the screws in and not an impact driver
I prefer dril drive. There's not much control with an impact.
Just got to the 2mm packer part! 🤦🏻♂️ to much l, credit card always which is a little less than a mm.
Apart from this dude who actually still uses tenon saws
Haaaa no fucker
I do.
😅
Mate, it better if you remain silent and people think you're a fool than to comment and remove all doubt.
fire door frame should had fire sealant or fire foam door stops should be glue and screw and fine door rated ironmongery that his what told to do by building control
put in the description i did go back and foam , i was never told doors stops needed to be glued and screws but thankyou for all this advice i appreciate it
Fire foam is not rated anymore on NHBS needs to be fire mastic.
I cant find work in BURY!!!
not much work my way either. i post pictures of jobs on a local app but never get much work. id be happy with £500 for 5 days!
It's called nextdoor.
I have got a few jobs from there.
Intumescent strips should only be fitted after the frame has been painted/finished or it will invalidate the door certificate regs
i have never heard this but thankyou i appreciate this
Why?
paint affects efficiency of the intumescent strips expanding if there is a fire so they should always be fitted last (after frame is painted/finished), if you read the door CF spec they all state that @@Tl-rk3et
You will have trouble getting in the strips after painting as the paint will leave an edge in the groove.
I undercoat/primer the door edges before fitting the int strips then fit the strips and then if the painter is decent there do a good job glossing the door edges
You start so late. I hate starting anytime after 7.
Tò cheap your getting milked at that price
Handyman not a carpenter
Mate, did your old lady run off with a Handyman?
Get some therapy to work out the trama, may help you move on with your life xox
I bet Jnmc-vx4fw is great fun at party's 😅😂