Hy guys i have a mishimoto catch can (big one) do you think i should remove it ? I have my 550hp setup on the sr20 since few years now without problems but since i installed mishimoto catch can there is some oil under the turbo it is not much leaking but it is there, i am not sure if it is a turbo line or on exhaust or inlet side of turbo how can i check it ?, what you think should i do Thx for your time and support Best regards from austria Dragan
Dragan Babic as stated, sounds like a mount or possible part failure. Catch cans I have never heard cause turbos to leak. Is it vented or recirculated?
Almost 2 year ago I passed my driving test, I had no idea about up to fix anything on a car. I'm now currently sat with the whole front of my car off to get to my turbo to recondition it. Some very useful stuff here that I had no idea about, thanks for the great video. Time to remove the turbo and fix my car 😁
@@jeremycormier8559 Yes and no. I fixed the turbo itself but i had boost pressure issues and other problems. Moral of the story, be careful messing about with things you dont fully understand lol
I dunno. I purchased a turbo from these guys. Bearing failure in 4.500 miles had a professional rebuild and it failed at 5.700 miles. Of course it was blamed on me. And I'm out 2k. So i thru it away and purchased a Borg Warner turbo. And have had zero issues.
Mike Brailsford yea I’ve been hearing a lot of people post issues with them. I’ve got their water cooler 6266 and so far at 1,000 miles I seem to be fine so far.
Well I do have to admit. I was only using basic synthetic mobile 1. But sence then i switched to brad penn high zinc formula oils. After reading the information posted about oils to use. On forced performance web site. There is a chart pretty much saying we should be using very high zinc oils. My car is an old 91 Mitsubishi with a 4g63. So ALL emissions stuff including cats have been removed. With the BW. Turbo I'm using a 10/an drain and 4/an oil feed from the cylinder head. The combination works excellent. I don't understand why the precision turbo didn't make it. But it's to much money to take another chance.
I generally pull and bin atleast 1-2 pte turbos a month. Vs a garrett, bw, they're fragile. Good for power, but no durability. Chinese made, assembled in America. I refuse to use or recommend them.
If you get a turbo from a company that has industrial background like borg, garret ect. You won't have to worry there turbos get beat to death and keep on going. I've been a truck driver for 20 years and the turbos on them things sometimes go over a million miles without any problem.
I run a pte. divided 6262 bb with dual wastegates on my fd at about 423rwhp at 16 lbs. So far no problems and i have 10k on the turbo. Spools fast and makes good power. I do not run a turbo timer but i do run my car about a mile off boost before i turn it off. I do hear a lot of complaints but i have non at this time
Wow! Learned a couple of things, best info was about the crankcase breather system. Have seen some blow the oil dipstick out, didn't realize it would try to back pressure the oil drain.
Learned a bunch ! In the past...i had a GN I modded with the typical precision turbo goodies, ( front mount IC, bigger turbo etc etc)...but since it was basically upgrades of stock stuff, I didn’t run into any of the considerations detailed here
Turbo is way cheaper and easier. Most supercharger kits start at around 6k for a side mount, 10k for a top mount. Turboing your car is much cheaper, especially if you only want low boost.
simple solution is buy a turbo that comes with the correct fittings and lines as a kit, then no mistakes are made. Have some silicon joiners between your hard pipes to allow for flex and if there happens to be any pressure issue, the silicon joiner will jump off the hard pipe, well before a hard pipe or turbo is damaged.
@@strider5119 hahahaha if you think turbos are easier youre on one. If you can replace an intake manifold or change an alternator you can install a supercharger. Also, for low boost, superchargers do the job. High boost, you want a turbo or a centrifugal supercharger. Also roots type superchargers are inefficient but twin screws and centrifugals are much more efficient. Not as efficent as a turbo but still. SC kits are also not that expensive. I see a lot of SC kits between 3000 and 6000. Depends on application. Basically the same price as a QUALITY turbo kit. It boils down to this. Max drivability, easy install, decent power bump: Supercharge it Dont mind lag, want max power and uncompromised performance: turbo.
My 6266 blew within 1000 miles, got it professionally rebuilt and it eventually suffered catastrophic failure in the same amount of time. I ponied up and bought a BB 6466 since I'm a glutton for punishment, lets hope it goes better this time around. And yes, i have checked the clocking of the turbo and ensured that my oil feed, drain, and orientation is correct.
This video is 5 years old. For your precision ball bearing turbos use the TurboSmart OPR. It supplies a constant steady 40psi of oil pressure to your Turbo.
@@grimcomedy6356 depends on the car. IIRC If its got a ball bearing turbo you dont really need to let it cool down before shutoff like you should be doing on a journal bearing turbo car
Instead of idling, get a turbo timer if you have an oil-only CHRA. Or go to a piece that has oil and water in the CHRA. Many modern cars that come turbo'd from the factory have this, and will continue circulating coolant even after leaving the car in the parking lot.
Interesting info about the crank case pressure affecting oil flow. I was not aware of that before. But I'm guessing that is only a problem at higher boost levels? For a tuned daily driver running 1-2 bar of boost, baffled catch cans seem to do the job just fine from what I've seen
Some cheaper turbo's too (im sure this all applies to their turbos) can need a restrictor especially on a high psi (oil psi) engine, he's right about it being a case by case basis and also there are different types of restrictors. I got a vibrant one that was like a pin hole, definitely not enough flow for my journal turbo but I originally had too much pressure. That restrictor actually got plugged and killed the turbo, its ebay replacement also came with a "restrictor" that goes in the oil inlet flange but is waaay larger than the pin hole one and just enough to lower the pressure enough (driving 90psi into this kinda turbo will leak past SEALS!) Again all case by case and what I've said here applies to cheaper turbo's we've worked with.
Jokes aside thank you, in all seriousness, there was solid info here that wasn’t just a facsimile of every turbo video/article online. I do wish you’d gone into more depth/any depth at all RE: catch cans, just saying “not too much in the way of catch cans” doesn’t help me understand what the problem is at all, if you never advise them or what the deal is exactly there and how it relates to “a proper breather system etc. If you have any videos that go into detail on the topic I would greatly appreciate a link. Thanks again
Garrett said it better than I can These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. So not never on journal bearing but usually no. Again the "restrictor" that came with my eBay turbo isn't anywhere near as small as the "real" restrictor I got from vibrant (which was clearly made for bb turbos).. also, yes, the drain line is very important to be done right!
Also i may say or ad to this equation. Builders are always arguing pressure vs volume(oil) Just look at Cat vs Cummins (just an example don't get your panties all bunched in your V spot). And I have noticed way to many people are going for look vs function. Just go with more simpler there stupider...
I plan to have my exhaust side braced from my D16 block with a full flex joint and use fiber reinforced silicone couplers to "decouple" the chassis from the rest of the system. I hope to break the D-Series record of 812hp and push the limit to around 1,000hp to prove that the "single jingle" can "flex" with the rest!!!
Most newer turbocharged cars circulate coolant after the car is shut off-Like a built in turbo timer- My 2018 circulates coolant upon shutdown and my 1986 Porsche 944 turbo had it waay back when.
Good info here. I have two ball bearing 67mm turbos from you guys going into my 5the gen camaro with a tsp 427lsx I cant wait to put those bad boys to the test. Looking forward to doing more projects with you guys as long as it all works out!
That information on oil restrictors is wrong. Factory journal small frame turbochargers from Holset and Borg Warner use oil restrictors to prevent the oil seals from being blown out on cold start.
Hi Chris! Here are a few links that should help! th-cam.com/video/ZqvTNw57jR8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Y2iGG-w2vic/w-d-xo.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=14 th-cam.com/video/zRLbrLC5VOQ/w-d-xo.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=6
Coking is basically evaporation of the lighter elements in the oil that rests in the bearing when you turn the car off. The hotter the oil the more severe the evaporation, what is left is tar, it is a hydrocarbon after all. When you boil the oil you evaporate the lighter stuff and leave the heavier stuff behind(coke). Great video that highlights this principle in different ways. Namely oil flow=cooling, and stagnant hot oil is bad.
You guys should look out for the small guys I reached out to precision on Instagram and they didn’t even respond back. It’s the average guys who keep business going.
I called them asking for the torque spec for the compressor nut on a set of used turbos that I bought and opened up to inspect (and to replace the problematic steel thrust bearing with a bronze). All they would tell me was: "we don't publish that". Real great customer service...
Precision Turbo & Engine well I had my car stolen and reached out to precision to see if there was anything they could do and they never responded I own a shop and have bought tons of them and it was kinda crappy they didn’t even respond
Brandon we receive an overwhelming amount of messages on Instagram and Facebook, our apologies your message must've been overlooked. As stated before, for IMMEDIATE ASSISTANCE it is best for you to call us or email us at the phone number and email provided above.
just for your info a standard Mazda RX& FD 1993 and up use a standard 140psi oil pressure system which will over oil the standard oil system and blow oil out the exhaust. so we HAVE to run a Restrictor. and maybe you should be aware of the oil filter screen on the incoming oil supply line fitting which has a screen which can get crushed if a standard AN fitting is screwed into it..my Friend's TO4 e got supper hot and when removed had a blocked crushed screen stopping oil getting to the turbo so it burnt out the ceramic bearings..it lasted only a few days..we are NOT Happy..
DarkMufasa bullshit advice. Only possibly needed for non water cooled turbos. Modern turbos on modern cars with pressurised coolant systems still cycle coolant/ water with engine off due to it being pressurised.
So dont use a baffled catch can huh? never heard that shit before. I can understand where he is coming from but how much restriction does a baffled can do? I mean you have a filter on the case.. plus the catch can. its not like its all capped off.
Been looking to replace my ta 49 with a 6262 on my 87 grand national! Alot of turbo regal guys run Precision turbos and make crazy power with no issues!
AKA buy a cellular connected Remote start kit so you can shut it off from inside the restaurant/work etc. because “get everywhere early enough to just sit there for a few minutes before shutting off your car” isn’t worth even printing in the user manual because Joe Consumer is always late
If you Google turbo oil drain and select images I would say about 90% are done wrong. I have ran more than one Precision Turbo my current one has over 100k on it
How does auto start/stop affect turbo wear. I have a theory that it is not good. Mercedes Benz calls this ECO and I plan to de-activate it on my E-550 Cabriolet.
first topic idle to cool especially after running in boost condition. If your not monitoring the temperature of turbo and don;t have an automatic or temp controlled shut down system. Manual set an wait to cool turbo is like 1 of the 10 thou-shalt on the stone tablets. It is when you don't because your in a rush that count the most
How are we supposed to rid a 90⁰ mounting of our wastegate when 99% of our turbo manifold come with 90⁰ mounting to the Turbo collector. This even includes sheepy turbo manifolds. I anxiously await your reply.
Run what the cartridge manufacturer specifies regardless of what the seller tells you unless they changed something in which case I would worry. Whoever made that bearing and lubrication system knows it best. However better drainage can only help and I would address any problems there first.
So on a hot shut down couldn’t you ad an electric oil pump set on a timer after the engine shuts off it keeps oil pumping for a few minutes or is that a dumb idea lol
I often use my Pu to tow heavy loads in big Mountains. I lost a turbo and it was replaced by a diesel specialty shop. Since then I am not able to maintain speed when on most hills. The exhaust temp. shoots up to 1300 or even 1400 right away. What is the problem? Do you know what I can do to get my hauling beast back?
I live in Kuwait, which is known for having a harsh desert climate. Summer temperatures are usually between 42-50 degrees Celsius, and dust storms are frequent. We use heat covers and add an air filter on the intake of the turbo charger. Beside those, Is there anything else that can be done in order for the turbo charger to function on a daily basis without failure & handle the harsh environmental conditions of the desert?
Yall need a media outlet I know yall r making money but if yall had a media division and had a TH-cam channel installing your kits for dyi and just covering precision news u could potentially have a million subs that is a lot of free advertising and money
If your doing some spirited driving and you immediately shut down car after , you should not have a boosted car. My wg placement is shit lol. Only companies that make manifolds for my car didn't do a great job with that. I have to use a 13psi spring to get 23 psi spring pressure, thats how inefficient it is. But there is also not alot of room so I understand why they did it like they did. Would need a custom made manifold
Most modern turbocharged cars have can be shut off immediately with no detrimental effects. Why? Because the turbos have a water cooled center section and the engine has an electric after-run water circulation pump for the turbo(s). When you shut off the engine, the tiny electric pump continues to circulate water to the turbocharger cartridge for a few minutes. This is why turbo timers and manual idling is OBSOLETE.
We hope this video was helpful! Let us know what questions you have for us in the comments!
Precision Turbo & Engine very nice
Precision Turbo & Engine what creates the pressure for oil going into turbo? Where do you run the inlet hose from?
Hy guys i have a mishimoto catch can (big one) do you think i should remove it ?
I have my 550hp setup on the sr20 since few years now without problems but since i installed mishimoto catch can there is some oil under the turbo it is not much leaking but it is there, i am not sure if it is a turbo line or on exhaust or inlet side of turbo how can i check it ?, what you think should i do
Thx for your time and support
Best regards from austria
Dragan
Dragan Babic as stated, sounds like a mount or possible part failure. Catch cans I have never heard cause turbos to leak. Is it vented or recirculated?
DarkMufasa thx
Almost 2 year ago I passed my driving test, I had no idea about up to fix anything on a car. I'm now currently sat with the whole front of my car off to get to my turbo to recondition it. Some very useful stuff here that I had no idea about, thanks for the great video. Time to remove the turbo and fix my car 😁
did it work :P
@@jeremycormier8559 Yes and no. I fixed the turbo itself but i had boost pressure issues and other problems. Moral of the story, be careful messing about with things you dont fully understand lol
I dunno. I purchased a turbo from these guys. Bearing failure in 4.500 miles had a professional rebuild and it failed at 5.700 miles.
Of course it was blamed on me. And I'm out 2k. So i thru it away and purchased a Borg Warner turbo. And have had zero issues.
Mike Brailsford yea I’ve been hearing a lot of people post issues with them. I’ve got their water cooler 6266 and so far at 1,000 miles I seem to be fine so far.
Borg for the win
Well I do have to admit. I was only using basic synthetic mobile 1. But sence then i switched to brad penn high zinc formula oils. After reading the information posted about oils to use. On forced performance web site.
There is a chart pretty much saying we should be using very high zinc oils.
My car is an old 91 Mitsubishi with a 4g63. So ALL emissions stuff including cats have been removed.
With the BW. Turbo I'm using a 10/an drain and 4/an oil feed from the cylinder head.
The combination works excellent. I don't understand why the precision turbo didn't make it. But it's to much money to take another chance.
I generally pull and bin atleast 1-2 pte turbos a month. Vs a garrett, bw, they're fragile. Good for power, but no durability. Chinese made, assembled in America. I refuse to use or recommend them.
If you get a turbo from a company that has industrial background like borg, garret ect. You won't have to worry there turbos get beat to death and keep on going. I've been a truck driver for 20 years and the turbos on them things sometimes go over a million miles without any problem.
Best turbo details in one video I have ever heard.
Awesome job.
I had three PTE turbos fail on me.. Switch to a borg warner and never had another issue.
I run a pte. divided 6262 bb with dual wastegates on my fd at about 423rwhp at 16 lbs. So far no problems and i have 10k on the turbo. Spools fast and makes good power. I do not run a turbo timer but i do run my car about a mile off boost before i turn it off. I do hear a lot of complaints but i have non at this time
Wow! Learned a couple of things, best info was about the crankcase breather system. Have seen some blow the oil dipstick out, didn't realize it would try to back pressure the oil drain.
Hey Robert! Love your videos you're a big help in the volvo brick community, keep up the good buddy
Great lesson on common sense "Doing it right the first time!". Thank You for sharing!
Learned a bunch !
In the past...i had a GN I modded with the typical precision turbo goodies, ( front mount IC, bigger turbo etc etc)...but since it was basically upgrades of stock stuff, I didn’t run into any of the considerations detailed here
The vibrant hard clamps have plenty of flex to them so you can weld hard piping to the turbo with that clamp.
You just helped me decide on turbo or supercharger . Blower it is.
Turbo is way cheaper and easier.
Most supercharger kits start at around 6k for a side mount, 10k for a top mount. Turboing your car is much cheaper, especially if you only want low boost.
simple solution is buy a turbo that comes with the correct fittings and lines as a kit, then no mistakes are made. Have some silicon joiners between your hard pipes to allow for flex and if there happens to be any pressure issue, the silicon joiner will jump off the hard pipe, well before a hard pipe or turbo is damaged.
@@strider5119 hahahaha if you think turbos are easier youre on one. If you can replace an intake manifold or change an alternator you can install a supercharger. Also, for low boost, superchargers do the job. High boost, you want a turbo or a centrifugal supercharger.
Also roots type superchargers are inefficient but twin screws and centrifugals are much more efficient. Not as efficent as a turbo but still.
SC kits are also not that expensive. I see a lot of SC kits between 3000 and 6000. Depends on application. Basically the same price as a QUALITY turbo kit.
It boils down to this. Max drivability, easy install, decent power bump: Supercharge it
Dont mind lag, want max power and uncompromised performance: turbo.
i wish i went that way instead of dealing with all this ridiculous heat coming from two turbos
@@andrewkahler9359 Superchargers are king 😎
"Do donuts with your turbo" GOT IT!
MåcGyver right before you turn the car off
@@philipsheridan2952 UK an
My 6266 blew within 1000 miles, got it professionally rebuilt and it eventually suffered catastrophic failure in the same amount of time. I ponied up and bought a BB 6466 since I'm a glutton for punishment, lets hope it goes better this time around. And yes, i have checked the clocking of the turbo and ensured that my oil feed, drain, and orientation is correct.
Did it go better this time around?
Turbo Timers is a great invention
This video is 5 years old. For your precision ball bearing turbos use the TurboSmart OPR. It supplies a constant steady 40psi of oil pressure to your Turbo.
I used to rebuild turbo's for a company, I used to see a lot of people run really small air filters on turbo's which can ruin a turbo
Thank you, I just got my first car with a turbo and not really familiar with them. Clear to understand and very helpful.
Let the car cool down after driving if you want it to last and let it warm up too
@@grimcomedy6356 depends on the car. IIRC If its got a ball bearing turbo you dont really need to let it cool down before shutoff like you should be doing on a journal bearing turbo car
Instead of idling, get a turbo timer if you have an oil-only CHRA. Or go to a piece that has oil and water in the CHRA. Many modern cars that come turbo'd from the factory have this, and will continue circulating coolant even after leaving the car in the parking lot.
Interesting info about the crank case pressure affecting oil flow. I was not aware of that before. But I'm guessing that is only a problem at higher boost levels?
For a tuned daily driver running 1-2 bar of boost, baffled catch cans seem to do the job just fine from what I've seen
Awesome info ! I see now why doc race makes it kits that way now.
Some cheaper turbo's too (im sure this all applies to their turbos) can need a restrictor especially on a high psi (oil psi) engine, he's right about it being a case by case basis and also there are different types of restrictors. I got a vibrant one that was like a pin hole, definitely not enough flow for my journal turbo but I originally had too much pressure. That restrictor actually got plugged and killed the turbo, its ebay replacement also came with a "restrictor" that goes in the oil inlet flange but is waaay larger than the pin hole one and just enough to lower the pressure enough (driving 90psi into this kinda turbo will leak past SEALS!) Again all case by case and what I've said here applies to cheaper turbo's we've worked with.
Ball bearing turbos aren’t cheap you need reatrictors for ball bearing turbos.
Out of the box precision turbos smoke!
Turbo timers are good - it will keep your car idling for a few minutes after you get OUT! Nice to have.
It's not 1999 anymore. Not needed for a good turbo
Jokes aside thank you, in all seriousness, there was solid info here that wasn’t just a facsimile of every turbo video/article online.
I do wish you’d gone into more depth/any depth at all RE: catch cans, just saying “not too much in the way of catch cans” doesn’t help me understand what the problem is at all, if you never advise them or what the deal is exactly there and how it relates to “a proper breather system etc.
If you have any videos that go into detail on the topic I would greatly appreciate a link. Thanks again
Garrett said it better than I can These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort.
So not never on journal bearing but usually no. Again the "restrictor" that came with my eBay turbo isn't anywhere near as small as the "real" restrictor I got from vibrant (which was clearly made for bb turbos).. also, yes, the drain line is very important to be done right!
Also i may say or ad to this equation. Builders are always arguing pressure vs volume(oil) Just look at Cat vs Cummins (just an example don't get your panties all bunched in your V spot). And I have noticed way to many people are going for look vs function. Just go with more simpler there stupider...
Wow that first tip is a very helpful advice, never thought to idle first before shut off. Thanks 😎👍🏽
I plan to have my exhaust side braced from my D16 block with a full flex joint and use fiber reinforced silicone couplers to "decouple" the chassis from the rest of the system. I hope to break the D-Series record of 812hp and push the limit to around 1,000hp to prove that the "single jingle" can "flex" with the rest!!!
Wish this video existed years ago. Would have saved me a ton of trouble
Do's: Buy a BorgWarner. Dont's buy from Precision. Simple as that.
Lmfao 😂
Ouch haha. I have a Borg Warner in mine. I cheated. Got an EcoBoost Fusion hahahah
@@Matt-xu6hz I have bw on sr20 tsik tsik :D
@Bradius Maximus No. But once asked mom if i was black because my dong* is so huge. She replied soothingly that dont worry my son you are white.
mitäsuomipolttaatänään your screen name suggest you’re off-white at best
It's all about the oil you use and, allowing the turbo to cool before shutdown.
Most newer turbocharged cars circulate coolant after the car is shut off-Like a built in turbo timer- My 2018 circulates coolant upon shutdown and my 1986 Porsche 944 turbo had it waay back when.
2019 still my turbo bible 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Good info here. I have two ball bearing 67mm turbos from you guys going into my 5the gen camaro with a tsp 427lsx I cant wait to put those bad boys to the test. Looking forward to doing more projects with you guys as long as it all works out!
That information on oil restrictors is wrong. Factory journal small frame turbochargers from Holset and Borg Warner use oil restrictors to prevent the oil seals from being blown out on cold start.
All seems pretty straightforward for anyone who understands and is thinking about their system
Bad turbo oil took out my wheel bearings
That's unfortunate! Please give us a call at 855-996-7832 and we can talk to you about getting your turbocharger sent it for service!
This was meant to be satire
booooooo precision
@@precisionturbo what a joke lol
Send them some old wheel bearings! What a bunch of clowns
Can you talk about the different types of housings just like the ones used in this video?
Hi Chris! Here are a few links that should help!
th-cam.com/video/ZqvTNw57jR8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Y2iGG-w2vic/w-d-xo.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=14
th-cam.com/video/zRLbrLC5VOQ/w-d-xo.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=6
This has been very helpful! Thank you!
Coking is basically evaporation of the lighter elements in the oil that rests in the bearing when you turn the car off. The hotter the oil the more severe the evaporation, what is left is tar, it is a hydrocarbon after all. When you boil the oil you evaporate the lighter stuff and leave the heavier stuff behind(coke).
Great video that highlights this principle in different ways. Namely oil flow=cooling, and stagnant hot oil is bad.
This guy just said not to use a baffled can? soooo bucket with a lid...sigh precision... Just turn comments off.
This is a great video! Can you make one about scavenge pumps for low and rear mount turbos?
Great information.great way of explaining to the people.you need a raise
Oil coking is a thing of the past with modern oils. Where’s this guy been?
What's up bro you sold me my turbo at Import vs Domestic 2017. It was a 6266 you gave me a killer deal on it thanks again man see you next year!
Can you recommend a company that makes the correct manifold for the waste gate the majority of manifolds have a 90 degree waste gate mount
My on3 turbo works great 6000 miles no problem 800 hp
How do race cars get around the oil cooking process if they have to shut down the car IMMEDIATELY after a 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile pass?
Turbonetics CBB Turbos and Tial Wastegates thats what i think is best atleast for imports IMO.
You guys should look out for the small guys I reached out to precision on Instagram and they didn’t even respond back. It’s the average guys who keep business going.
Hey Brandon just give them a call. Great people ! Will help you out if meet specifications... I know !
I called them asking for the torque spec for the compressor nut on a set of used turbos that I bought and opened up to inspect (and to replace the problematic steel thrust bearing with a bronze). All they would tell me was: "we don't publish that". Real great customer service...
Brandon, for immediate assistance we recommend to call us at: 855.996.7832 or email us at: pte-info@wabtec.com
Precision Turbo & Engine well I had my car stolen and reached out to precision to see if there was anything they could do and they never responded I own a shop and have bought tons of them and it was kinda crappy they didn’t even respond
Brandon we receive an overwhelming amount of messages on Instagram and Facebook, our apologies your message must've been overlooked. As stated before, for IMMEDIATE ASSISTANCE it is best for you to call us or email us at the phone number and email provided above.
the only thing id have added is to drain the turbo to the engine ABOVE the oil level in the pan (from your website).
Definetly gonna run a precision turbo on my d16y8 turbo build .you get what you pay for.
why buy a turbo thats worth more than your car?
just for your info a standard Mazda RX& FD 1993 and up use a standard 140psi oil pressure system which will over oil the standard oil system and blow oil out the exhaust. so we HAVE to run a Restrictor. and maybe you should be aware of the oil filter screen on the incoming oil supply line fitting which has a screen which can get crushed if a standard AN fitting is screwed into it..my Friend's TO4 e got supper hot and when removed had a blocked crushed screen stopping oil getting to the turbo so it burnt out the ceramic bearings..it lasted only a few days..we are NOT Happy..
Good info. Its always a good idea to invest in a turbo timer folks
DarkMufasa bullshit advice. Only possibly needed for non water cooled turbos. Modern turbos on modern cars with pressurised coolant systems still cycle coolant/ water with engine off due to it being pressurised.
Thanks
9:29 reminds me of the edited clip of dude just breathing in
👌tru
So dont use a baffled catch can huh? never heard that shit before. I can understand where he is coming from but how much restriction does a baffled can do? I mean you have a filter on the case.. plus the catch can. its not like its all capped off.
And it's not like the can is more restrictive than the 1/2" rubber hose feeding it.
Been looking to replace my ta 49 with a 6262 on my 87 grand national! Alot of turbo regal guys run Precision turbos and make crazy power with no issues!
I noticed u say do not use baffled oil catch cans but u don't explain why.
It makes me sad when someone doesn't use synthetic oil in turbo engine.
I use 15w-40 conventional or 20w-50 synthetic
AKA buy a cellular connected Remote start kit so you can shut it off from inside the restaurant/work etc. because “get everywhere early enough to just sit there for a few minutes before shutting off your car” isn’t worth even printing in the user manual because Joe Consumer is always late
What’s up PT. Great Turbos. I use them on all my builds. Kudos
oil coaking isn't an issue if your turbo has a waterjacket natural induction takes care of the heat
Love my 6466!
Same
buy a turbo times ! cheap easy set it and it will do a great job !
I think you should figure out a way to not have to have oil to cool it then you can shut it off with no worries and solve the oil drain issues
If you Google turbo oil drain and select images I would say about 90% are done wrong. I have ran more than one Precision Turbo my current one has over 100k on it
Fiat uses an after run pump for cooling the turbo to prevent oil cooking.
fiAT IS ALSO TRASH
How does auto start/stop affect turbo wear. I have a theory that it is not good. Mercedes Benz calls this ECO and I plan to de-activate it on my E-550 Cabriolet.
Very informative thanks
Really like the tech talk .thanks
Wow! Some pretty informative comments here. I know now what kind of turbo I WON'T be buying.
Nice vidéo thanks...
first topic idle to cool especially after running in boost condition. If your not monitoring the temperature of turbo and don;t have an automatic or temp controlled shut down system. Manual set an wait to cool turbo is like 1 of the 10 thou-shalt on the stone tablets. It is when you don't because your in a rush that count the most
What do you recommend that the EGT be below before shutting off your engine?
I have a turbo timer installed set to 2 mins and shuts off
Don't like pts but these are good tips
To twin scroll or not to twin scroll? That is the question i would like to have answered.
Raul Jimenez i plan on going twin scroll.
4 bangers have a 2413 or simmalar firing order, twin scroll isolates exhaust pulse crossflow inside the turbine housing, therefore decreasing spool time.
Im running a 6266 twin scroll and ill never look back for a street drivin car
@@tjcollick6674 i ve also been reading about twin scrolls. They say its nnot anybetter unless u have a seperated or divided manifold
@@stevenholt2941 well yeah, my manifold is divided
Really helpful 👌🏾
Great video.
How are we supposed to rid a 90⁰ mounting of our wastegate when 99% of our turbo manifold come with 90⁰ mounting to the Turbo collector. This even includes sheepy turbo manifolds. I anxiously await your reply.
Run what the cartridge manufacturer specifies regardless of what the seller tells you unless they changed something in which case I would worry. Whoever made that bearing and lubrication system knows it best. However better drainage can only help and I would address any problems there first.
Thank you very nice and interesting.
What is the proper boost for my drive 1.4 Holden Cruze manual boost control
hi precision turbo , .... what is a good breather system for a 2000cc 4 cilinder ? please link .
Hey it was a helpfull video. can a TURBOCHARGER ENGINE be fitted with CNG KIT?
Thanks.
So on a hot shut down couldn’t you ad an electric oil pump set on a timer after the engine shuts off it keeps oil pumping for a few minutes or is that a dumb idea lol
I used to drive a semi, as i heard the same thing. But is there a computer to control the cool down.
I often use my Pu to tow heavy loads in big Mountains. I lost a turbo and it was replaced by a diesel specialty shop. Since then I am not able to maintain speed when on most hills. The exhaust temp. shoots up to 1300 or even 1400 right away. What is the problem? Do you know what I can do to get my hauling beast back?
I live in Kuwait, which is known for having a harsh desert climate. Summer temperatures are usually between 42-50 degrees Celsius, and dust storms are frequent. We use heat covers and add an air filter on the intake of the turbo charger. Beside those, Is there anything else that can be done in order for the turbo charger to function on a daily basis without failure & handle the harsh environmental conditions of the desert?
Also make sure your oil level is full. Low oil absorbs heat faster and has a harder time dissipating it.
Everyone and their momma saying to use a catch can on the PCV in GDI motors but PTE says no, why?
Yall need a media outlet I know yall r making money but if yall had a media division and had a TH-cam channel installing your kits for dyi and just covering precision news u could potentially have a million subs that is a lot of free advertising and money
Do i have to use an oil restrictor on a Hydrodynamic bearing PT76/75 turbo?
Good Stuff.. Knowledgeable Information is key too Success. 🏁🏁🏁🏁🏆🏆🏆
If your doing some spirited driving and you immediately shut down car after , you should not have a boosted car.
My wg placement is shit lol. Only companies that make manifolds for my car didn't do a great job with that. I have to use a 13psi spring to get 23 psi spring pressure, thats how inefficient it is. But there is also not alot of room so I understand why they did it like they did. Would need a custom made manifold
Excellent video, subbed! 👍
Were is the oil inlet on my turbo 6.6 diesel l5p
What if you put some type of oil filter on the exit side line to catch any crusty oil?
Most modern turbocharged cars have can be shut off immediately with no detrimental effects. Why? Because the turbos have a water cooled center section and the engine has an electric after-run water circulation pump for the turbo(s). When you shut off the engine, the tiny electric pump continues to circulate water to the turbocharger cartridge for a few minutes. This is why turbo timers and manual idling is OBSOLETE.
So a baffled catch can/aos would restrict the PCV, to the point where oil would surge up the drain line?