I used to be a toolmaker... a life time ago. A safety tip: when drilling metal, break your chips regularly. If they get long they are like spinning saw blades!
You can glue a couple of strips of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to the inside of the V-groove jig to improve your holding friction. Also, the old-style drill press vises are great for doing forearm curls in the shop while you are waiting for glue-ups or finishes to dry. :)
Glad to see someone else uses that drill press table vice grip! Since finding one on sale and getting it on a whim I have had it permanently attached to my drill press. Love the thing! Also, I spoke to my father in law about that "Hong Kong" style plane you covered in a previous video. He has never used one himself but was just happy to see it in a Western presentation extolling its virtues.
i was introduced to drill press working by an old machinist at a manufacturing plant. he taught me that before you start drilling figure out how to make a hold down template or clamp. yes we did do a few things by holding them by hand but that was always like plastic and big enough to keep your hand far away from bit
Rex: Thanks for another very informative video. I really like your no nonsense, no flummery attitude and presentation. richard hargrove -- Ah, those three little words so many people seem to have so much trouble saying: “I was wrong.”
I like the last 5 tips Sir. I didn't even think of those tips at all. Thanks for the knowledge bro. I have all those tools, but never thought of your tips before. Well Done
Jerry Johnson II Just start doing fabrication for a living, you'll figure out all kinds of cool stuff when its how you pay the bills. Glad you found it useful!
I have an x/y table with a vice mounted in the t slots. It sits between my metal lathe and milling machine. I mostly use it for drilling pen blanks. A little overkill but it's a big drill press and pen blanks will take the skin off you hands with a quickness.
I have a similar table on my 1978 rockwell DP. To make clamping to the table easier I made a table extension that has solid flat on the bottom edges, I used oak and plywood to to make an assembly that fits under the table, The outer edges fit flush to the table top. I drilled 4 holesithrough the top and used flat head 1/4 20 bolts to attache it. Now the perimeter of the table is 2 1/2 in square . oak and the bottom of the table is flat plywood. The table is larger and very easy to clamp to. I have also glued wood blocks under my unisaw table to make clamping finger boards easier.
Another good video. I absolutely love the modified wooden clamp for holding round stock. It is now on my to-do list for the workshop. I will probably finally also get around to the drill press table with adjustable fence, so that I can use adjustable stop blocks for production work.
Rex -- I'm with you on the drill press table. Teats on a boar... 1lupus -- a 4/4 x 4" x board with an inset length of T-track lets you jig up to your heart's content. Clamp it to your table with any of the ways Rex demonstrated, and you're good to go. Clyde
Sounds like a good plan.Thanks Clyde. I love youtube, by the time I have got around to a project I have got all the pros and cons from people who have been in the same spot beforehand, and I don't have to go through the same learning curve.
I have done quite a lot of drilling in recent months and I may offer some little tips: Generally use the lower ranges of RPM - more power, less heat and better chance of reacting when something goes wrong (before the material spins on the drill and is shot out in a random direction, haven't happened to me personally but I've seen a metal piece shot out and stuck in a wall, that's a real life hazard). Bigger drills in thinner stock tend to "catch" or "bite" on the material more often, so if you are holding the piece free hand, push it down into the table, the friction will prevent spinning and you keep the piece from getting pulled up on the drill. Use lowest usable speed when drilling in plastic to prevent melting of the material and annoying half molten, long swarfs getting stuck on the drill. Don't be hasty, as pointed in the vid, the drill press is somewhat of a "lighter version of a lathe" and the spindle creates a lot of potential hazards. P. S. Bolt the machine to your table, don't keep it standing free.
Awesome awesome video. Was looking for ideas to hold a 3” dowel and you covered it! Great idea. Going to be using this method for something I’m build and I’ll be mentioning your channel and video.
Great tips to take to the workshop. Thank you 😉 I looked for your other two drill press hacks videos, to no avail. Not uploaded yet? Or am I looking on the wrong place?
If you ever end up doing them, please mention in a bit more detail which gears/speeds with which drill bits to use for which purpose. I remember back years ago when I thought slowing it down would be the safer option, but ended up burning/melting out two drill bits until I figured it out. I forgot what I was drilling through now though. For this reason, I am reluctant to use the bench drill as much.
Rex, your video inspired me to make a fill plate for the underside of my Porter Cable floor-based drill press. Removed the table, traced the underside on cardboard. Cut a 1/2" piece of OSB to fit and counter-bored spots for 4 neodymium magnets epoxied flush in place. A slot in the rear of the OSB allows it to be removed without disassembling the table. How can I send you some pics?
I never thought about putting holes in my handscrews, hmm... Tilting the vise and tilting the table allows you to make holes at compound angles if you line it up well enough and bolt it to the table. The risk of the drill grabbing and whipping the piece around can be pretty much eliminated by having one end of the work out against the pillar of the press, a wall, or any stationary object tall enough to reach the chuck and in the way of the direction of rotation You can also bolt a stop to the table for smaller parts but that probably isn't necessary in most cases and would just get in the way. I think it needs mentioning cause you were doing the work with acrylic and corian: low friction plastics also need to be drilled with a slightly dulled or purpose-made plastic bit, else they have a tendency to jump out of a vise and screw themselves up the length of the drill while spinning. Vises and clamps don't hold them very well.
Those are all great tips! Thanks for sharing. As to the acrylic, I agree that regular twist bits have a lot of problems. But forstner and spade bits (which are the ones I'm using) don't have that problem. They work great with no grabbing.
You're welcome, and thank you for mentioning those work without hassle. There's a video here that shows you can use regular twist bits, you only need to slightly dull the cutting edge with a piece of sand paper. It's useful for small holes for fasteners, hardware or decoration, not just the larger holes. (Make sure to keep that set seperate though.) th-cam.com/video/8Ri6poVpQM8/w-d-xo.html
I know the vee block is a cheap and easy thing to make out of wood, but I'd recommend against using a wooden one. The bottom of the channel is the thinnest and weakest part of the block and, with the downward pressures often used in drill presses, it's likely to split here and will no longer be holding your workpiece steady. Get a metal one for $20-30 off Amazon, etc., or even cheaper from markets or estate sales.
@@RexKrueger Thanks for the videos Rex, I think a part 3/4 would be great if you have more drill press knowledge you think is worth sharing. If not that's fine too, I know you're busy making other great videos so it's all good.
I just went with a (somewhat oversized) cheap Chinese compound XY vice for mine. It's enormous and heavy, so moving the table up & down is a pain, but even a cheap one of these makes lining things up with precision so much simpler. Add a pair of third party vice jaws, glued parallel, & you do away with a lot of the downsides of the cheap casting. I still don't know why nobody has made a more low-profile version with a traditional side holding vice design instead of hold downs, but even my little bench drill has enough height in the pillar to let me drill larger pieces accurately this way.
My simple table doesn't have a crank, so, I added a pulley to the side of the head and ran a cable to a counter weight. ( piece of 3 inch pvc pipe with lead weights inside ) I added weight till the table was balanced. Moving it up or down is Much easier.
My dad ripped open his hand on a small drill press like this. Pretty gnarly looking gash. It’s all better now tho. Only thing he paid for was bandages.
Sometimes, small holes in small piece can also be danger, imagine you are going to drill a 1/4 inch hole on a piece of 1/2 inch square steel. holding by hand, it is going to helicopter for sure, and very likely to hit your thumb with some sharp edge. If you don't have a vise, you can use a adjustable spanner to hold the piece with a piece of paper. It will provide enough fraction.
@@RexKrueger no problem, man. I can give you one more, good v block can be expensive and difficult to find these days, what if you want to drill a hole on a rod? It is going to be a nut case. Yes, nuts! For example if you want to drill a hole on a 1/2 inch dia threat rod and don't have v block, put some nuts on the rod on both side, nuts are hexagon, clamp the nuts in the vise instead and you got a solid grip that will not helicopter or the drill bit wouldn't walk.
Ok. So, I'm not a patron---yet. Maybe I can be soon. In the meantime I'm wondering how anybody can press the 'Dislike' button on these videos! You do so well demonstrating hazards and safe practices. And all of the 'tricks of the trade' are so well demonstrated. In the meantime, thanks from a freeloader.
You're not a freeloader! Your a viewer. I love my viewers. You watch the TH-cam ads and I got some money through that. Also, I wonder the same thing about downvotes, especially in a video like this where I'm just trying to help people and spread information. Why does someone dislike this? Maybe because some videos look more pro than mine. I'm saving up for a better camera.
@@WryGrass100 You know, very early in my TH-cam career, a hearing-impaired man got in touch and asked me never to put music on my videos because it makes it almost impossible for people with hearing problems to hear the talking. Seems like a reasonable request, so I never do music and talking at the same time. Easy enough.
They come in sizes from little 20 lb. bench top units to multi ton radial drill presses. A 19 or 20 inch floor model will cover almost everything you will do in a home workshop.
Your earlier statements about holding work might spawn another series of videos. I have limited work area. A lighter workbench and one wood vise. I would love to know how to hold round stock in the same way a shave horse does without drilling holes in my bench. I love draw knives and spokeshaves for round stock, but holding them securely has been problematic at best. All in all, respect for the power tools and think about how the cut or drilling could go wrong. Then fix that.
This is something I can mull over. I might be able to come up with something. In the mean-time google "shave pony." There are at least a few designs out there for shave horses that attach to your bench. These supposedly work well and save a lot of space.
On my "little outdoors work table"... I have a machinist vice, basic four-inch model, no frills. AND I'm also a fan of drawknives, spoke-shaves... hand tooling... and round stock. I took the "jaws" off the vice, revealing the bolt-holes, and then matched those bolts to some longer ones at the nearest hardware shop. THEN I essentially made two of those "V-blocks" Rex showed in the video, for holding round-stock and drilled them as precisely as possible with a small high-speed hand-drill (too lazy to drag a floor model press to the backyard that day)... AND bolted the V-blocks into the vice to replace it's original jaws (jaw-liners?) You don't need BIG V's to do the holding, though. That's a paramount lesson from my first effort... AND since then, I've always cut approximately a 3/8 inch deep V into blocks for replacement "jaw-liners" rather than bother with anything larger. Most of the time, the smallest stock I deal with is around an inch wide, so it's sufficient. You could also use pairs of V-blocks along with any of the C-clamp or F-clamp types, to hold work down as long as you didn't want to build anything special... In the case you want to build something... A pair of "uprights" that mount to the table (yes, clamps unless you drill and bolt)... Could be used to hold up a "Cam clamp"... which is essentially an off-centered wheel on an axle... You'll need to "tread" this wheel with silicone or "non-skid" material, so it grips a little better, but even gluing sandpaper to it will do the job... When you want to hold work down, you shove the work under the wheel and then pull back sharply... the idea is the wider-part of the wheel (that hangs down by gravity) will roll up onto the work, but as it starts to grip and roll back off of it (being OFF-centered on purpose) it will push UP on the axle and uprights. As long as your uprights, axle, and wheel are sufficiently attached (clamped) to the table, the work can NOT possibly move toward you... and you can draw-knife and pull spoke-shaves to your heart's content (doomsday if there's substance enough for it)... When you want to "release" the work, just shove it forward under the wheel... and as the wheel rolls, the off-center will release the compression. It takes a little bit of tinkering to get it quite reliable, and I often use "all-thread" and nuts to position my axle and wheel by bearing-brackets up or down to accommodate different sizes of project piece... BUT once you've built the thing, give or take the occasional tweak or retro-fit (when you deem appropriate)... you've GOT it. ;o)
Consider putting one or more slots into the bench and use of a leather or conveyor belt fabric strap attached to a foot lever. stepping on the lever would secure the work and allow its quick release for repositioning.
Rex - your videos are great and I really look forward to each one but I find it surprising that you gave up the "day job" for a new one (which you like a lot but which doesn't pay enough to support you and your family) and then ask people to support you. I would have waited for suitable support before changing career! My very best wishes for the future.
I simplified my story a lot for the video. I was making decent money making furniture and doing fabrication, but the income growth wasn't there. My content-creation business is growing, but it needs my full attention to really get up and running. Unfortunately, this is the story with most entrepreneurial stories: you start out kind of starving, but as the business grows, your income catches up. As to the "support" part, ALL content creators are supported by someone. Most are supported by advertisers, which is fine, but it's not a model I believe is right for me. My Patrons aren't supporting me; they're paying me for a service: unbiased and independent content. It's a business arrangement like any other.
This is a little off topic although technically it is work holding, and on a drill press... So I was at good ole harbor freight a few days ago and noticed an "X/Y axis Drill press vise" for like $70. Ever since I saw it, I have been contemplating, if one would be able to essentially "mill" softer materials on their drill press (along with the additional of an end mill of course)? If not, what could an X/Y axis Drill press vice be used for? I know that's not what a drill press is made for.... But would it work? I wouldn't expect super tight tolerances. I am interested in adding additional functionality to my drill press. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or tried something similar? I'll link to the vise below just so we are picturing the same thing... m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html?Fnot%20provided
Spectt84 Good question! Short answer: don't do that. The chuck on a drill press is not made to hold mills. The bearings can't take the side load. Terrible idea all around. Mind you, it WOULD work. It's just dangerous, innacurate, and bad for the machine. Hope that helps!
@@RexKrueger Cool, Iam looking to start a small factory (read very very small) and looking to understand pros and cons between drill press and magnetic drills. These videos have helped to open my eyes a bit, Thanks
I used to be a toolmaker... a life time ago.
A safety tip: when drilling metal, break your chips regularly. If they get long they are like spinning saw blades!
Also, do not pick up a 'chip' in the middle. Not unless you can see both ends. (I worked in a foundry. Work boots lost their tread in 90 days.)
For long stock, aligning the stock so it touches the vertical column can help prevent spinning.
MaxBeanboom2 that's a pro-tip! Thanks for sharing it!
This series on the drill press has been very helpful and I hope you will consider making more tutorials on it. Thanks.
You can glue a couple of strips of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to the inside of the V-groove jig to improve your holding friction.
Also, the old-style drill press vises are great for doing forearm curls in the shop while you are waiting for glue-ups or finishes to dry. :)
Dude, you're not kidding. That thing weighs a TON. I also really like the sandpaper trick. I'm gonna do that!
Glad to see someone else uses that drill press table vice grip! Since finding one on sale and getting it on a whim I have had it permanently attached to my drill press. Love the thing! Also, I spoke to my father in law about that "Hong Kong" style plane you covered in a previous video. He has never used one himself but was just happy to see it in a Western presentation extolling its virtues.
i was introduced to drill press working by an old machinist at a manufacturing plant. he taught me that before you start drilling figure out how to make a hold down template or clamp. yes we did do a few things by holding them by hand but that was always like plastic and big enough to keep your hand far away from bit
Rex: Thanks for another very informative video. I really like your no nonsense, no flummery attitude and presentation.
richard hargrove
--
Ah, those three little words so many people seem to have so much trouble saying: “I was wrong.”
I like the last 5 tips Sir. I didn't even think of those tips at all. Thanks for the knowledge bro. I have all those tools, but never thought of your tips before. Well Done
Jerry Johnson II Just start doing fabrication for a living, you'll figure out all kinds of cool stuff when its how you pay the bills. Glad you found it useful!
Thanks bro and i really enjoy your channel
I have an x/y table with a vice mounted in the t slots. It sits between my metal lathe and milling machine. I mostly use it for drilling pen blanks. A little overkill but it's a big drill press and pen blanks will take the skin off you hands with a quickness.
I have a similar table on my 1978 rockwell DP. To make clamping to the table easier I made a table extension that has solid flat on the bottom edges, I used oak and plywood to to make an assembly that fits under the table, The outer edges fit flush to the table top. I drilled 4 holesithrough the top and used flat head 1/4 20 bolts to attache it. Now the perimeter of the table is 2 1/2 in square . oak and the bottom of the table is flat plywood. The table is larger and very easy to clamp to. I have also glued wood blocks under my unisaw table to make clamping finger boards easier.
Another good video. I absolutely love the modified wooden clamp for holding round stock. It is now on my to-do list for the workshop. I will probably finally also get around to the drill press table with adjustable fence, so that I can use adjustable stop blocks for production work.
1lupus I'm really glad you liked it! As to the drill press table: made one, hated it, threw out out, never missed it. Your millage may vary.
Rex -- I'm with you on the drill press table. Teats on a boar...
1lupus -- a 4/4 x 4" x board with an inset length of T-track lets you jig up to your heart's content. Clamp it to your table with any of the ways Rex demonstrated, and you're good to go.
Clyde
Sounds like a good plan.Thanks Clyde. I love youtube, by the time I have got around to a project I have got all the pros and cons from people who have been in the same spot beforehand, and I don't have to go through the same learning curve.
Round stock can be held by screwing a pair of wood strips to a section of plywood to support the pipe. Think the 2 contact points of a 'V' bolck.
Great fact-filled video, just what I was looking for!!
Great advice, well delivered. Thank you.
I have done quite a lot of drilling in recent months and I may offer some little tips:
Generally use the lower ranges of RPM - more power, less heat and better chance of reacting when something goes wrong (before the material spins on the drill and is shot out in a random direction, haven't happened to me personally but I've seen a metal piece shot out and stuck in a wall, that's a real life hazard).
Bigger drills in thinner stock tend to "catch" or "bite" on the material more often, so if you are holding the piece free hand, push it down into the table, the friction will prevent spinning and you keep the piece from getting pulled up on the drill.
Use lowest usable speed when drilling in plastic to prevent melting of the material and annoying half molten, long swarfs getting stuck on the drill.
Don't be hasty, as pointed in the vid, the drill press is somewhat of a "lighter version of a lathe" and the spindle creates a lot of potential hazards.
P. S.
Bolt the machine to your table, don't keep it standing free.
Bamzee X good tips! Thanks for building the knowledge on this tool!
4:14 That's an amazing vice! I've never seen one like it before!
Great tips, especially the one about drilling holes in the wooden hand clamps for holding round objects that must have holes in the ends (ie dowels).
If you don't have wooden clamps you can create the same dowel-holding setup with a couple of wood scraps and a c clamp or bar clamp.
eggsngrits that's a good point, and then you're not drilling holes in your clamp.
Thank you again Rex
Awesome awesome video. Was looking for ideas to hold a 3” dowel and you covered it! Great idea. Going to be using this method for something I’m build and I’ll be mentioning your channel and video.
Thank you Rex for sharing your wisdom.
Great video Rex, thanks for posting it.
Thanks for the handscrew clamp ideas. I love those things, but I'd love them a lot more if I wasn't always turning them the wrong way.
Great tips to take to the workshop. Thank you 😉
I looked for your other two drill press hacks videos, to no avail. Not uploaded yet? Or am I looking on the wrong place?
I have not made then yet because this series didn't get a lot of views. I still might do them. Glad there's interest.
If you ever end up doing them, please mention in a bit more detail which gears/speeds with which drill bits to use for which purpose.
I remember back years ago when I thought slowing it down would be the safer option, but ended up burning/melting out two drill bits until I figured it out. I forgot what I was drilling through now though. For this reason, I am reluctant to use the bench drill as much.
I was also looking for the last 2, btw loving your channel, stumbled across your old style bench few days ago
I like to bolt peace of wood to the drill press table, then screw on a little jig to immobilise drilled part.
Good tip!
I use a C vise grip which is really effective
That's a really good idea. I don't own one of those, but I really should. Thanks!
So the vise grip hold down also fits perfectly through bench hold down holes in your workbench. HFT has them for less than 10 bucks a piece.
Rex, your video inspired me to make a fill plate for the underside of my Porter Cable floor-based drill press. Removed the table, traced the underside on cardboard. Cut a 1/2" piece of OSB to fit and counter-bored spots for 4 neodymium magnets epoxied flush in place. A slot in the rear of the OSB allows it to be removed without disassembling the table. How can I send you some pics?
I'd love to see some pics. Maybe through facebook? I'm easy to find.
excellent info. Thanks!!
Great video.
Thanks for the awesome content Rex!
Glad you liked it!
I never thought about putting holes in my handscrews, hmm...
Tilting the vise and tilting the table allows you to make holes at compound angles if you line it up well enough and bolt it to the table.
The risk of the drill grabbing and whipping the piece around can be pretty much eliminated by having one end of the work out against the pillar of the press, a wall, or any stationary object tall enough to reach the chuck and in the way of the direction of rotation You can also bolt a stop to the table for smaller parts but that probably isn't necessary in most cases and would just get in the way.
I think it needs mentioning cause you were doing the work with acrylic and corian: low friction plastics also need to be drilled with a slightly dulled or purpose-made plastic bit, else they have a tendency to jump out of a vise and screw themselves up the length of the drill while spinning. Vises and clamps don't hold them very well.
Those are all great tips! Thanks for sharing. As to the acrylic, I agree that regular twist bits have a lot of problems. But forstner and spade bits (which are the ones I'm using) don't have that problem. They work great with no grabbing.
You're welcome, and thank you for mentioning those work without hassle. There's a video here that shows you can use regular twist bits, you only need to slightly dull the cutting edge with a piece of sand paper. It's useful for small holes for fasteners, hardware or decoration, not just the larger holes. (Make sure to keep that set seperate though.)
th-cam.com/video/8Ri6poVpQM8/w-d-xo.html
Good collection of tips!
Thank you!
I know the vee block is a cheap and easy thing to make out of wood, but I'd recommend against using a wooden one. The bottom of the channel is the thinnest and weakest part of the block and, with the downward pressures often used in drill presses, it's likely to split here and will no longer be holding your workpiece steady.
Get a metal one for $20-30 off Amazon, etc., or even cheaper from markets or estate sales.
Or pre-drill a hole in the base of the v groove, to stop splitting
New subscriber here. Whatever became of parts 3 and 4 of this series?
I initially got few views on parts one and two, so I didn't make the other parts.
@@RexKrueger Thanks for the videos Rex, I think a part 3/4 would be great if you have more drill press knowledge you think is worth sharing. If not that's fine too, I know you're busy making other great videos so it's all good.
I just went with a (somewhat oversized) cheap Chinese compound XY vice for mine. It's enormous and heavy, so moving the table up & down is a pain, but even a cheap one of these makes lining things up with precision so much simpler. Add a pair of third party vice jaws, glued parallel, & you do away with a lot of the downsides of the cheap casting.
I still don't know why nobody has made a more low-profile version with a traditional side holding vice design instead of hold downs, but even my little bench drill has enough height in the pillar to let me drill larger pieces accurately this way.
I'm really interested in getting one of those xy tables. They look so useful.
They do help a lot. I imagine you could make one out of wood & a couple of lengths of threaded rod too; might try that some day.
My simple table doesn't have a crank, so, I added a pulley to the side of the head and ran a cable to a counter weight. ( piece of 3 inch pvc pipe with lead weights inside ) I added weight till the table was balanced. Moving it up or down is Much easier.
Awesome video excellent information
Thanks a lot!!
My dad ripped open his hand on a small drill press like this. Pretty gnarly looking gash. It’s all better now tho. Only thing he paid for was bandages.
My table has T Slots.. had to get a Amazon T block kit
Sometimes, small holes in small piece can also be danger, imagine you are going to drill a 1/4 inch hole on a piece of 1/2 inch square steel. holding by hand, it is going to helicopter for sure, and very likely to hit your thumb with some sharp edge. If you don't have a vise, you can use a adjustable spanner to hold the piece with a piece of paper. It will provide enough fraction.
That's a good tip! Thanks!
@@RexKrueger no problem, man. I can give you one more, good v block can be expensive and difficult to find these days, what if you want to drill a hole on a rod? It is going to be a nut case. Yes, nuts! For example if you want to drill a hole on a 1/2 inch dia threat rod and don't have v block, put some nuts on the rod on both side, nuts are hexagon, clamp the nuts in the vise instead and you got a solid grip that will not helicopter or the drill bit wouldn't walk.
Guillaume st-charles. Hahahaha you made me laugh. Appreciate you trying to pronounce it! (French is my mother tongue)
Ok. So, I'm not a patron---yet. Maybe I can be soon. In the meantime I'm wondering how anybody can press the 'Dislike' button on these videos! You do so well demonstrating hazards and safe practices. And all of the 'tricks of the trade' are so well demonstrated. In the meantime, thanks from a freeloader.
You're not a freeloader! Your a viewer. I love my viewers. You watch the TH-cam ads and I got some money through that. Also, I wonder the same thing about downvotes, especially in a video like this where I'm just trying to help people and spread information. Why does someone dislike this? Maybe because some videos look more pro than mine. I'm saving up for a better camera.
@@RexKrueger Just don't add music! It's distracting. See, I'm getting picky already.
@@WryGrass100 You know, very early in my TH-cam career, a hearing-impaired man got in touch and asked me never to put music on my videos because it makes it almost impossible for people with hearing problems to hear the talking. Seems like a reasonable request, so I never do music and talking at the same time. Easy enough.
i didnt know that was upside down for a clamp. thats how ive always used them.
is a drill press a standalone machine, or do you have to attach it to a workbench?
They come both ways. Big free-standing models are especially nice.
They come in sizes from little 20 lb. bench top units to multi ton radial drill presses. A 19 or 20 inch floor model will cover almost everything you will do in a home workshop.
Do a vid about drill press table please.thanks
You know, I tried one and I didn't like it at all. I just don't think I have anything to add to that subject.
Rex Krueger thank for the response rex
What is the difference between a C-Clamp and a G-clamp? They all look the same to me..
Subbed.
Dude the press bed has slots to bolt that vise down ...
Your earlier statements about holding work might spawn another series of videos. I have limited work area. A lighter workbench and one wood vise. I would love to know how to hold round stock in the same way a shave horse does without drilling holes in my bench. I love draw knives and spokeshaves for round stock, but holding them securely has been problematic at best. All in all, respect for the power tools and think about how the cut or drilling could go wrong. Then fix that.
This is something I can mull over. I might be able to come up with something. In the mean-time google "shave pony." There are at least a few designs out there for shave horses that attach to your bench. These supposedly work well and save a lot of space.
On my "little outdoors work table"... I have a machinist vice, basic four-inch model, no frills.
AND I'm also a fan of drawknives, spoke-shaves... hand tooling... and round stock.
I took the "jaws" off the vice, revealing the bolt-holes, and then matched those bolts to some longer ones at the nearest hardware shop. THEN I essentially made two of those "V-blocks" Rex showed in the video, for holding round-stock and drilled them as precisely as possible with a small high-speed hand-drill (too lazy to drag a floor model press to the backyard that day)... AND bolted the V-blocks into the vice to replace it's original jaws (jaw-liners?)
You don't need BIG V's to do the holding, though. That's a paramount lesson from my first effort... AND since then, I've always cut approximately a 3/8 inch deep V into blocks for replacement "jaw-liners" rather than bother with anything larger. Most of the time, the smallest stock I deal with is around an inch wide, so it's sufficient.
You could also use pairs of V-blocks along with any of the C-clamp or F-clamp types, to hold work down as long as you didn't want to build anything special...
In the case you want to build something... A pair of "uprights" that mount to the table (yes, clamps unless you drill and bolt)... Could be used to hold up a "Cam clamp"... which is essentially an off-centered wheel on an axle... You'll need to "tread" this wheel with silicone or "non-skid" material, so it grips a little better, but even gluing sandpaper to it will do the job... When you want to hold work down, you shove the work under the wheel and then pull back sharply... the idea is the wider-part of the wheel (that hangs down by gravity) will roll up onto the work, but as it starts to grip and roll back off of it (being OFF-centered on purpose) it will push UP on the axle and uprights. As long as your uprights, axle, and wheel are sufficiently attached (clamped) to the table, the work can NOT possibly move toward you... and you can draw-knife and pull spoke-shaves to your heart's content (doomsday if there's substance enough for it)...
When you want to "release" the work, just shove it forward under the wheel... and as the wheel rolls, the off-center will release the compression.
It takes a little bit of tinkering to get it quite reliable, and I often use "all-thread" and nuts to position my axle and wheel by bearing-brackets up or down to accommodate different sizes of project piece... BUT once you've built the thing, give or take the occasional tweak or retro-fit (when you deem appropriate)... you've GOT it. ;o)
Consider putting one or more slots into the bench and use of a leather or conveyor belt fabric strap attached to a foot lever. stepping on the lever would secure the work and allow its quick release for repositioning.
Rex - your videos are great and I really look forward to each one but I find it surprising that you gave up the "day job" for a new one (which you like a lot but which doesn't pay enough to support you and your family) and then ask people to support you. I would have waited for suitable support before changing career! My very best wishes for the future.
I simplified my story a lot for the video. I was making decent money making furniture and doing fabrication, but the income growth wasn't there. My content-creation business is growing, but it needs my full attention to really get up and running. Unfortunately, this is the story with most entrepreneurial stories: you start out kind of starving, but as the business grows, your income catches up. As to the "support" part, ALL content creators are supported by someone. Most are supported by advertisers, which is fine, but it's not a model I believe is right for me. My Patrons aren't supporting me; they're paying me for a service: unbiased and independent content. It's a business arrangement like any other.
I drill material on my two drill presses at the slowest speed.
Drill presses are the most damgerous machine tools. One use ful work holding aid is one or more angle plates.
This is a little off topic although technically it is work holding, and on a drill press... So I was at good ole harbor freight a few days ago and noticed an "X/Y axis Drill press vise" for like $70. Ever since I saw it, I have been contemplating, if one would be able to essentially "mill" softer materials on their drill press (along with the additional of an end mill of course)? If not, what could an X/Y axis Drill press vice be used for? I know that's not what a drill press is made for.... But would it work? I wouldn't expect super tight tolerances. I am interested in adding additional functionality to my drill press. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or tried something similar? I'll link to the vise below just so we are picturing the same thing...
m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html?Fnot%20provided
Spectt84 Good question! Short answer: don't do that. The chuck on a drill press is not made to hold mills. The bearings can't take the side load. Terrible idea all around. Mind you, it WOULD work. It's just dangerous, innacurate, and bad for the machine. Hope that helps!
part 3?
I know. I need to get to it.
@@RexKrueger Cool, Iam looking to start a small factory (read very very small) and looking to understand pros and cons between drill press and magnetic drills. These videos have helped to open my eyes a bit, Thanks
Can you use a drill press as a lathe? lay it down horizontally, secure it, maybe rig up a live center for the opposite side?
andrew tate looks a bit like you
Hey man you have a nice video content but your camera is sucks
I agree. Buy me a better one. Problem solved!