Four reasons to own a bit-brace.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
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I am a night person and live so close to neighbors that using power tools at night is not nice. I’ve been using braces late at night without problems. They are also softer on your own ears. Another aspect: braces generate slightly less dust (particulates) than power drills. Shavings are better for you than dust and particulates.
Thanks, for me these are both really important aspects.
This is interesting never thought of that before. I’m a newbie at woodworking so that’s a great info for me since I don’t need to much dust.
Im slowly turning into a hand tool guy due to the noise concerns haha
I'd be mortified if my neighbours were suffering because of the noise i was making, so a quiet tool is essential
Also you can put a screwdriver bit on the brace, you can turn screws,bolts or nuts with a lot of torque and control
Best tip I've gotten out of you tube!
surprising amounts of torque. I can out torque my electric impact driver with one. This is *the* way to drive parallel head screws.
Great tip Matias. As a boat builder, I have driven thousands of silicon bronze wood screws with a brace. Because of the tactile feel, very seldom have I had any problems with stripping or buggering the head of the screw. Modern impact drivers have too much torque at times.
I read on a forum a guy used a bit and brace to screw down his entire deck, and he claimed he made every screw head orient the same way. Oh well I have three of these, really good for this purpose.
looked for someone saying this before I said it, just used my friends Dewalt torque driver for a screw I couldn't get to with my brace and it couldn't sink the head of the screw into the wood flush but all the other screws I did with my brace easily managed it with no effort (9" screws going into old old wood)
I inherited one from my grandfather. Every time I use it, it reminds me of him. One of the first times I used it I was at an SCA event, one of my buddies went to replace a couple of broken boards in his wooden walled tent that required him to drill a few holes and realized he didn't have any charge for his electric drill. I also tend to be awake at night and they are silent so I can still get some work done without waking my wife, dog or neighbors.
and an added benefit of owning them - you can pass them on down in the family, so one day someone will say "these museum pieces still work, and they were my great, great, great grandfathers'".
Two years later and this video STILL...holds up. I just shared it again to someone to explain why they need a bit brace.
Roy Underhill would describe the brace as "alcohol-powered" and would tell how the tool motor instantly detects contact with human flesh. Thumbs up on the video to kill a troll. Thanks much.
Roy is a severely underated national treasure in more ways than one.
It also has torque control to an incredible precise amount.
Both the brace and bit and the 'egg beater' type are absolutely worth having. The control and precision are incomparable, and they are capable of working quite quickly as well. I've also used the 'egg beater' type to drill and tap steel. No issues, and worked surprisingly fast. Unrelated tip, you can use her shank drill bits in those multi-bit screwdrivers. It's best if the driver is set up for the longer hex bit tips, but it works a charm.
I worked in a gasoline refinery, and i used braces all the time. I would hole saw through a plastic boxes at the top of remediation wells that may well of had explosive gases inside. I made adaptors to use hole saws, screw driver bits, socket wrenches. and even regular twist bits. Yes slow but no electricity required and it does not make any sparks, No explosions, and some times it did jobs safely when no one else could even think of a safety approved method. I am retired now but my brace was left behind to keep on working slow but safe.
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing!
"...may well of" ? You mean "may well have"? Dumbass.
Slappy you are a dickhead
Excellent story.
Also, TFW grammar & style trolls screw up in their corrections, when they should celebrate your Oxford comma.
@@slappy8941 Troll
I like power tools but I started my joinery career with mandraulic drills and screwdrivers. Sometimes they're better. One good thing that you didn't mention is that most auger bits are pretty long when compared with the equivalent twist drill. You can drill a perfectly clean and straight 1/4" hole right through a 6" wide joist. Another thing you can do with an auger bit is drill perfectly level by hanging a bunch of keys on the shank - if the bunch creeps forward or backwards on the shank as you turn the brace, then you know you're out of level.
These are simply brilliant points! Thanks for sharing!
SimplyReg Spot on! I had to drill a 3/8" hole in a 4x4. I didn't have a long enough bit for my electric drill. The other issue was the hole needed to be drilled near to an obstruction. The width of the electric drill would have made that impossible. My right angle attacment would take care of that but I still needed a longer bit. Then I remembered I had my Dad's brace and bits. Sure enough the 3/8" auger bit was plenty long for the job.The pad was beyond the obstruction so I could drill the hole as close to the obstruction as half the width of chuck. The other advantage this brace had is that it can be set to ratchet. I didn't have to swing the handle around. Great tool.
Damn, I never thought of that leveling technique. I think that's genius.
Thank you
@@gregre052 The pleasure's mine. My old tutor Brendan taught me that trick back in about 1985, I think. Fantastic when drilling out lock mortices. It really works.
@@gregre052 , yeah genius. that trick will work well with powered tools too.
Years ago I was contract Lineman for a Power Company. I used a Brace and Bit every day over and over drilling holes in Power poles for hardware. 60' up drilling away, never thought a thing about it.
I've got over five braces. I especially like the ratcheting ones, but they're all good. I love a brace for hanging gates out on the farm. The ratchet feature allows me to put the bottom hinge part close to the ground, into seasoned Locust gate posts. Never ran out of battery with a Bit Brace, though I have run out of energy, tapping Maples...
Another great point! I've turned Locust on the lathe. Damn, that stuff is hard.
@Kris
"Over five". You mean you've got six?
Or is it five, but you work in marketing?
Or can't you count any higher? Maybe you had an accident and lost one hand?
I know: you took the rest of them apart, and now you don't know how many there should be.
Just joking.
never disregard old tech, I inherited one of these an love it
A brace and bit is one item I intend to have in my tool box, you have given me the impetus to now get one. In many areas of life, sometimes the old ways are the better ways.
I can't say better or worse, but certainly capable of some things that a cordless doesn't do well.
Great video, Rex!!!
I can't count the times I've saved someone's bacon (including my own) because I have at least one brace that lives in the truck, van, or one of the travel-totes for job-sites... Whether the power goes out, or someone forgot integral electrical equipment (batteries, drop cord, generator...) OR just the boss doesn't have a regular drill bit THAT SIZE and THAT LONG... It's great to have a tool to "fall back on" in times of unreliability in the field.
I love the fact that all my braces ratchet... in both directions. I love my adjustable sized bits as much as I love the set I keep... AND I'm just a wee-bit surprised NOBODY noted the gauges or size numbers!
Quick guide is simple enough. The "#X" value is the number of 16th's of an inch for the hole-size. Thus, a "#3" bit drills a 3/16" hole. and a "#9" drills a 9/16" hole. It's old-school, and new companies ARE still producing bits for the brace, so... my own collection is probably dated. BUT if we're actually intent on getting this kind of info' to the folks who haven't used one before... It's mighty handy information.
I even have "egg-beaters" and a smaller version (hand cranked) enclosed in a housing. They're absolutely WONDERFUL for really precise small jobs... The kind a "regular" or "power" tool would cause more trouble and aggravation than necessary.
AND for REALLY TINY detail-work, I have a drill that's just a chuck in a handle! (I actually have several now... lolz) These wonderful little things are more often useful for "cleaning out" holes left by industrial functions, BUT in soft materials that would be destroyed or unduly wasted with power tools (even Dremels) you just can't beat them!
...and JEEEEZZZ do those bits get tiny!!! ;o)
I was born in 1948 and my carpenter / plumber Grandfather used to take me out on jobs from age three and a half. He virtually treated me as an apprentice and the Bit Brace was a much used and loved tool.
He also had a ratchet screwdriver and a Yankee Screwdriver, which were viewed as technological marvels at the time, haha.
In late 1990 , when I moved into the big country town that I now live in, the big Department store in town was rationalising and selling out their hardware department. I picked up a new Yankee Screwdriver! Cordless drills and screwdrivers were just starting to become available. It s hard to explain how satisfying using these tools are.
There was a Russian store in Sydney and I picked up a 'Modern' Russian Bit Brace with a gearbox attached! Win. No electricity in the Russian back blocks.
I like how hand tools can create a sort of emotional bond between the person and the object since they are actually putting muscle work into it, instead of just standing there holding a button.
When a wood forces you to break a sweat while working on it, you will remember it. Thats like the woodworking equivalent of having respect for the bears some people fought in hand-to-paw combat
Yup, got 4 of them. Use them for drilling large holes. Plus the cool factor is huge.
You are right. I keep the cordless in my truck, and grab one of these to do the work my egg beater won’t do. In the summer you get a good sweat going, but isis the right tool for a one off or any large size hole.
The file to to sharpen these are Pretty cheap. Buy a used set and sharpen then.
Like a good hand plane the wood will do what you want and you will have super clean edges.
I have 3 of them and they never break or run out of battery drilling deep 3/4 inch holes. Just me and my sweat.
Super quiet and reliable to get the job done.
Bit braces is wonderful, I got them not because Im a cabinetmaker, but because I do bushcrafting and non electrical tools just come in very handy.
@@TomAlter1000 haha thank you.
Here in the U.K. it’s a brace and bit. For extra large holes you can use a trepanning bit. These are adjustable for hole diameter.
We have those over here too. We call them "expandable bits". Thanks for you thoughts!
TH-cam doesn't often recommend great channels to me, but boy am I glad when they do.
That's very kind of you. Thanks!
I have used one of these for the "no electricity" reason. About 15 years ago, I was helping my parents setup their new doublewide modular home and my dad wanted to build a retaining wall to enlarge the parking area. I dont remember why, but I think we only we only had one cordless drill with NiCad batteries and it didn't last long. We drilled just a few rather large holes the old fashioned way, and it worked out fine. We were tired but got the job done. Now we own a lot more tools and a generator...
It's the ability to get the job done no matter what that matters. No electricity, no problem.
Hey Rex! After watching two vids on bit-braces, i ventured out to my garage/shop and dig up some treasure. My father-in law, several years ago, gifted me with many of his woodworking tools. 5 or 6 different hand planes(all stanley) and lo and behold, a (previously un-opened) tool box containing two bit braces and a full set of auger bits. They look to be in great condition, no rust, no nicks, no problems. Lucky me. Thanks to you and your channel, i fully intend to put down my power drills and start reaching for these more often. Thanks so much for the work you do, the vids and the inspiration to become a real woodworker as opposed to the “bash it up” style I’ve relied on previously. “Bash it up” you ask? Yeah. Always sturdy, rarely pretty, never elegant. Thanks again. Also sorry to hear/watch the thumb/saw i jury
Oops... injury video. Wishing you a speedy recovery and avidly awaiting more content!
A new(ish) fan
J
A useful but seldom seen variant of the traditional woodworking brace is the one with a straight ratchet handle/arm behind the chuck but at a right angle to it. This allows work in restricted spaces, eg between closely spaced woodwork where you may wish to run pipework or wiring through a rafter or a floor joist or anywhere space does not allow the full size brace to operate I have a Stanley brace of this type and the design incorporates a large comfortably shaped palm piece to enable some pressure to be applied. Not one of the early essentials in most tool collections, but worthwhile for the aforementioned work. I have not seen very many in use and do not know if Stanley still make them, but auseful tool if you can find one.
I don't have a bit-brace any more, but I do still drill most of my holes with a hand drill: either an eggbeater, or the one where the handle is moved up and down. That's because in instrument making, you don't need to drill deep holes, and it's just faster to grab the hand tool and not have to plug it in.
A brace with a screw driver bit is my favorite way to put in long wood screws-- especially if you have the square drive stuff. It is nearly as fast as a cordless driver, but less chance to screw up. A brace is also nice for driving taps in less critical applications. Again, nearly as fast as a drill, but with a wider safety margin.
I still have my Dad's bit brace, a few drills and his push twist drill and have used both several times. after seeing your video I will now be on a mission to clean them up and use them more often. great tip on the controlled countersink. thanks for posting. because of this video I am now a subscriber to your channel.
That's what I love about the bit-brace.Clean precise holes. Yup, revolution counting 10/10. With the ratchet feature, you can crank a hole pretty much anywhere. And, it gives you incredible control for taking off nuts and bolts, for using screw outs, and you an even drill holes in metal. I just totally love my bit-brace. I do however need a new chuck for mine, I got it for free and it is somewhat worn.
Mine looks exactly like the click pic, and belonged to my Grandpa, who was a carpenter from around 1900 thru 1957. I also have all of his planes, ranging from a 4" to a three foot door plane, and his draw knives. The brace bits range from 3/16" to 1-1/4", plus an adjustable 3/4" to 3". I use them all regularly.
I get blown away at how easy it is to use one of these. I've been dumped with like 100 or so, and just amazed every time how easy it is.
Another tool to have alongside a brace and bit is a Yankee Push Drill which can be awesome for zipping in some pilot holes and countersinks.
I have one. I need to dig is out.
I worked on a wooden sail boat and the deck was teak. The owner didn’t want power tools used on the decking screws because he didn’t want the screws over torqued. So he had me using a brace with a flat head screw driver. It worked pretty good.
Another feature to be aware of is the throw of the brace. It is usually stamped on the upper arm of the handle and is a measure of the diameter of the circle made by the handle as it turns. A longer throw gives you more leverage with the larger diameter bits, but may not seem comfortable to use with smaller bits (kind of like trying to pedal a bike in a really low gear at a high speed). As you mentioned, braces are relatively inexpensive, so buying a few in various sizes isn't much of a problem. An 8 inch throw is a good compromise to start. I also have 10 inch and 6 inch braces.
I'd love a 6" model. Seems like a convenient size.
In the beginning I just had a tool box. I often needed a tool I didn’t think I would need. So I bought a panel van and made more tools I still often needed a tool I left at the shop. So, I bought a bigger van. Now I have my work shop in the van AND I CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING!! Now, I carry all the tools I need in a bucket. It took years but I now carry all the toolsI need.
I do some blacksmithing and all the smiths I know just use a bucket. Works like a charm.
I have my Grandfathers brace and it is excellent for driving screws. I built an entire boat with Robertson screws and it never slid off the screw once. Also, I have a special drill bit which is adjustable for any size between 1 and 2.5" diameter. The original cordless drill that never runs down.
When you drill a hole at the bench, don't do it like you do it, holding the end in your hand. You can see your hand wobble all over the place, and it is difficult to judge what is a vertical. Instead, clamp the work piece vertically in you vice and put the brace against your belly or chest. As you look down at the work, it is easy to see if you are a little off on the angle. You are also rock steady while you do it, unless you are drilling on a boat at sea, or something. You can also lean a little into the work, which gives a good amount of leverage with almost no effort at all. So go horizontal, not vertical.
Even an electric drill is susceptible to non-normal holes. The problem is exacerbated by short(er) bits. However, bits used in a brace are almost always long(-ish) enough to show up the deviation from vertical.
Depending on the bit set, the shanks may be susceptible to the use of a funnel as a guide to keeping the shaft vertical to the drilled surface. From a radially-regular funnel with appropriate dimensions, cut away less than half of the circumference along the length of the taper, then veer outward away from the axis of the funnel to leave a spoon-shaped opening. A 'J-stroke' cut starting parallel to, but offset from, the funnel's axis, and ending in the cone…
You can pass the shank through the large 'bowl' and clip the funnel's taper onto the bit shank (additional view-ports in the funnel wall to taste). When drilling, keep the brim/lip of the funnel uniformly above the drilled surface, particular when starting the hole.
YEAH, as a kid my father and a couple of his buddies built a boat in our garage. I hung around being fascinated. Loved that brace against the stomach or chest. When I first tried it I didnt follow the against the chest rule and I couldn't figure out how they did it without all the wobble. Caught on eventually.
Yes, that's the way they are used.
And you can use the ratchet to repeat the 180 degrees in front of your body till the hole will keep itself straight
@@michaelthibault7930 I don’t know if you’ll se this, but that sounds very cool, but I’m having trouble “seeing what you mean. If you have any further descriptive or visual info, I’d really like it if you were to respond. Any thanks in advance.
I have a brace, and a few bits, that belonged to my grandfather. I’m a grandfather now, and just recently introduced it to my 5 year old grandson. A full set of bits run in size from 4 to 16. The are marked in 1/16 inch increments, which allows you to know the size of hole each makes, 1/4” to 1”.
I like the bit brace drills alot better than the new cordless. They have never let me down. I think its because I like using tools that were the tool of choice when my dad was young. Also they still work after 100 years as compared to new battery operated ones. I have tools 100 years old that were forged where my dad worked as a machinist that can still do a days job. H.K.Porter plant in Somerville! I like to find and restore them.
Large diameter holes with good accuracy without the cost of Forster bits, which also stall out battery drills.
Or completely smoke them. I killed an m18 Milwaukee fuel drill with a 2" forstner
I have the (working?) theory that Forstner bits are the real reason God invented the "Shovel Handle" Power Drills I keep inheriting and collecting. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 aka arm-pretzel makers! I finally found a 2" ship auger bit that can tank one of those too when you drive it into a pecan log and try to bore 14" deep into the endgrain. I had to stop a few times to let the drill rest
@@ArcaneTinker, I don't know... I do agree to your "alternative label" (lolz).
Those BIG Augers pose a problem because even after the cut, you just keep adding metal to the friction equation...
My standard operating procedure starts with polishing the bit (outer side at least) and then waxing BEFORE working it. It's not a lot of work (usually) and slick, shiny metal does a great job slipping past grain... Wax adds to the general cleanliness and lubrication (why I prefer waxed cardboard in reloaded shells for the twelve-gauge over plastic "sabots")
If it still offers "difficulty" you can throw a bit of Silicone Lubricant (rattle can) down the hole with every "clear-out" which should (optimally) be about every four inches or less (depending on the actual length of the bit) just on principle... "A clean hole is a happy hole."
The great point of Forstners in those shovel-handled behemoths is there's only the cutting head that has to "work" the motor, and when employing a "bit extender" you can get by with a lot of "lunacy"... in my dubious experience.
Of course, keep in mind, I've been many times around and thrown across more than one room for my dubious expertise... AND I am on more than one record as "some kind of a nut". (just so you're warned) lolz...
At least we can laugh at ourselves, too. Right? ;o)
I have 3 different size Bit Braces. For wood working they cannot be matched. I have a couple "egg beater" drills too. Building my cabin in the woods could have been much more difficult without them. There is no electricity there until I complete my mini-hydroelectric plant. I have been using human powered carpentry tools since the 1950's. Bit Braces and "eggbeaters" are used when doing "fine woodworking." Electric powered drills and saws are useful except when crafting furniture and building guitars.
My dad tapped 100-200 maple trees every spring using nothing more than a brace and bit.
He eventually got an attachment for his chain saw but when you factor in the time it took to remove the chain and bar then add the attachment, do the tapping, then return the saw to it's tree cutting purpose, it really wasn't much of a time saver for only 100 trees.
When he got a new chain saw, he left the tapping attachment on the old saw permanently. He also started tapping closer to 300 trees. Only then was the time saving a factor.
But it was still easier to tap to the correct depth using the brace and bit.
Guess what I am saying is that there is always a place for simple hand tools. And this is coming from a guy who loves power tools!
They are the first Drill any carpenter or Joiner uses on a bench .The geared hand drill is the second ,the Brest drill with chain drive is the original cordless drill for drilling in masonary . If your out in the wilds with no electricity before battery drills existed or even now days if your battery’s die they are handy I always carried a brace & hand drill in my tool box before I retired .You can now pick them all up cheap at garage & boot sales & will still be around when the cordless & corded electric drills have long bit the dust .If your a tradesman your hand tools always ensure you can get the job done one way or another .
Love it!! I'm going to Garage sales and getting me a bit brace asap for all my fine wood working needs!!
You'll never regret it!
Brace bits also don't have any smoke to let out like electric drills/drivers do so you can rear down on em much harder and hold it there.
I recently experienced one instance where the electrical drill just couldn't do the job. I was making a toy axe for my nephew with a wooden head and decided to finish the head first and then drill out the eye of the axe. The electrical drill just split the head apart, and swithing to a auger bit didn't really help. I grabed the brace and it just did the job smoothly without tearing anything apart.
Best use for a brace is countersinking and/or chamfering holes. You only need a turn or two so having these chucked up in a brace is even quicker than just chucking the bit in your handrill. They're also awesome at getting out screws that you know are going to give you trouble since you can put your chest on it which prevents slipping. I also keep a universal chuck brace with a 1/4 magnetic holder in it always because its just so handy that way. You can also get 1/4 inch shank chucks meant for using regular drills in cordless screwdrivers that will fit in your brace so you can chuck anything into it after that. Like so many other tools most of the trick of the tool is knowing what it is capable of doing best and/or easiest.
I've owned one of those for years and I have tons of bits for it. I think I actually have 3 of them however I have no idea how I've acquired them lol. I have used it a few times but only for fun really. I haven't used it in many years. I love all tools tho and have more then a few I've never even used just because Im so fascinated with them.
if you are looking for a great quality new manufacture auger bit, the Wood Owl augers are spectacular. They are not the budget option but they are superior quality tools and they cut clean holes fast.
@7:00 I never realised this tip. It's so simple it's genius. accurate to 16th of an inch even if you think about it. Thank you for these Videos.
great show. and great comments. all entertaining. i still retain 2 braces. one coz it was dad's (no ratcheting mechanism), and another because it was the best of all the ratcheting braces i'd come across. as for the egg- beater type, i couldn't get rid of it fast enough when i worked out i could put anything it could hold into the brace chuck. only good for drilling holes in swiss cheese. good riddance.
Can you tell us what make/model that "best of all the ratcheting braces" was please? Even if it's old, it would be worth looking out for a used one. Thanks.
@@jamesrodgers3132, i'm in australia. brands where you are will be different. my choice of the best ratcheting brace was based on leverage. the offset of the handle that you push around was bigger on the one i kept - better leverage. there wasn't much difference to detect between ratcheting mechanisms. all about the same. the others i donated to an old tool appreciation society.
So I'm putting together (as a beginner) my very own woodshop from equipment I get at auction. Today I picked up a huge lot of miscellaneous hand tools, and one of them is a bit brace. Then I get home and turn on the tube and this video pops up. I had no idea it was called a bit brace until I watched the video. My question, is how the heck did TH-cam algorithms know, lol
I love these. I have a 160 year old antique one that I use constantly. It was used in a blacksmith's shop in Northern Georgia and even came with some original hand forged bits specific for metalworking. Those I don't use, sparing them labor in their well deserved retirement in favor or modern bits. The thing is, my hand drill actually has the lever beat out further to give longer cranks with more torque. Whoever used this thing exclusively must have had arms like Popeye.
I have my Grandfathers that's over 100 years old, he got it from a cabinet maker that lived next-door to him.
I have a whole tool tote full of hand tools. (Bit brace and egg beater included) I load up my truck with all the tools I might need for a specific job and toss in the hand tool tote for 'just in case'.
You really never know!
I have definitely passed up on a few of the really rough ones. I always make sure that the jaws open, close and line up when closed before purchasing. Not worth a buck if the chucks don't close. I bought 3 with about a dozen bits for $10 bucks one day. Here in FL that was a good deal. One of the braces was shot and unusable but the other two are good.
I have a brace problem. I think I own about 2 dozen of them in various throws 6-12". I have some with 2 jaws, 3 jaws and 4 jaws. I'll have to look to see if I have any universal jaws. My favorites are the Bell System braces. I pick them up whenever I can as these were the best of the best at the time.
Thanks for the informative video. I hope to buy your book soon.
You're right; they can be TOO rough. I understand your brace problem. I'm the same with planes. I own at least 50. Sometimes, a particular tool just grabs us and then that's it!
@@RexKrueger I just have a tool problem. Too many hammers, planes, saws, chisel sets and still room for more :-). Oh well, when I go someone will have fun with all my tools.
I got a pretty clean set with a roll and a brace and bit all for £45 shipped with an adjustable auger bit....it's sad thinking about where my hand tool/oil stone collection came from but at least they'll be put to good use and be cared for properly instead of ended up in a landfill, I got mine for bushcraft personally
I have a brace and bit, a rotary auger, and a pump drill. They never need charging, and the bits last forever.
Check it out I got a brace over 100 yrs old with a 3 position flexible head. And a egg beater drill (as you call it) with 2 speeds and a shoulder pad on top instead of the round handle.
When an airplane goes down in a vortex like spiral this tool is used in the term: witnesses said it "AUGERED IN".
I remember that from the film "The Right Stuff." When I first saw that movie, I had no idea what an auger was.
Those, and the egg beater drills, can be stored in a vehicle tool box or hunting shack long term and there are no batteries to go dead or be damaged by heat.
One other huge benefit to a bit & brace is there's no motor to burn out. I had to make some large diameter end-grain holes in (effectively) a bench. Can't use the drill press, would have burned up any power drill I could find. Brace did it with only some sweat-equity!
Right Tool for the RIGHT JOB - LOVE THE video!
They're also good when you're installing or working in an area with other things you can't move out of the way and you're worried about punching into them.
Good point!
If you buy an auger bit that doesn't work or is damaged, then all is not lost. Cut the auger helix off leaving just the shank. Take a 1/4 square to 1/4 hex female adaptor, and measure the internal diameter of the 1/4 square - probably about 6.45mm. File the shank down to a square, until it's just oversized for the 1/4 hex square (About 6.45mm). Take the 1/4 square to 1/4 hex adaptor, and hammer it down onto the shaft with an interference fit. You now have a great high torque screwdriver with great feedback.
A fantastic tip! Thanks!
Yep been there and done that with my battery drill. Even picked up a bad battery and was 2 hrs from the shop. I hate it when that happens. Lol.
It happens to all of us.
I inherited my late father in laws brace and a good handful of various bits. Like you, I don't use them often but when a larger or deeper hole is needed it's the go-to.
No, you can't buy it, not for any amount
Hopefully moving to a bigger house this year and getting my woodworking going again. Thanks for the channel man. REALLY looking forward to making some new furniture. Yeah, I'll probably pick up a bit brace.
One of these was the first antique tool I ever bought. Never knew what it was called. :)
I might go to my dad's garage and take it out for a spin
I got one to tap metal. I does 1/2-13 pretty well.
Years ago I went looking for a good brace. Bought a good-looking new one, and discovered that the axis of the chuck wasn't aligned with the center of the pommel (or "top spindle", or whatever it's called). Nobody seemed to understand what I was complaining about.
No cords, no batteries, no chargers, quiet, and can be faster than an electric in some applications. Easy to care for and not the least bit hard or tricky to use. Just be sure you're turning it the right direction.
I wonder if they use left-handed ones in Australia? :D !
No, mate, we don't. This was the first type of drill that I used as a kid. I think every shed had one of these.
Unless you have a very long hole to drill in a very awkward place, there is very little use for it.
My Makita allows me to drill as slow as I need making that drill completely redundant.
the old 'egg-beater' type hand drills are still quite useful. But I haven't used my one of those probably for five years or more.
gladly paid more than "a buck or two". Still worth it. I like egg beater drills for working on musical instruments. Break through matters when installing tuning machines on the back of a guitar peghead. Braces work great and the ratchet feature allow for drilling in some awkward locations.
I'm a new sub....your channel has become one of my favorite channel....I'll be moving to a place with little electricity so I'll be watching more of your videos
I have an very old egg beater drill, or more professionally known as a breast drill. I made a review of it on my channel.
Just subbed. I'll watch it later today!
I was really looking forward to that page about different bit brace chuck styles, but the link was omitted, unfortunately.
I was taught to continue in clockwise direction when removing bit
You mention that the depth-per-revolution is wood dependent. Is that true? I don’t know because I’ve never used an auger bit, but it seems like the threaded worm will pull the bit the same distance per revolution regardless of the wood species.
The hardness of the wood is a factor, so yes, it's different.
With the invention of the electric drill, YES
I always carried a brace and bits when I was an electrician just in case. However, I’ve found them almost completely unnecessary for making furniture, though some would claim otherwise. Eggbeater drills are far more useful in woodworking.
I’m in my 70’s and I have the bit brace my father owned.
Awesome!
I have & Used those drills, when there is NO Electricity available, for drilling and driving screws, with a screwdriver bit, for Added Power.
drive and loosen slotted screws with a screwdriver bit in your bit brace
Awesome video! Helpful and good to listen to
Excellent channel
Reason number 1 is the clean holes they make
I love my brace. I also want a house that is powered by firewood. No joke.
I got a full set and a few adjustable ones for really cheap
Iv purchased several of these from my thrift shops
All good stuff.
But as a word of advice to anyone who's looking to get their first brace bit, stay away from any brace bit you find in you local hardware store. I've never seen one that wasn't complete junk. (The last time I tried using one, it literally dissolved into parts within 15min of when I got it home from the store .)
Like the video says you can find great used brace bits for next to nothing. I have probably a dozen, in a wide assortment of sizes (including one that drills around corners) and I don't think I've ever spent more than five bucks.
Thank goodness the used ones are so cheap!
How am I watching this without electricity? I'm in your shop, Rex; just over by your scrap wood pile.
“If you don’t have electricity, how are you...”
Hahahaha! These videos are so entertaining AND informative.
But seriously, spade bits... I have had terrible experiences with them (using a electric drill). Seems like the holes are never round... they make weird hexagonal holes. I’m not sure what’s happening but it feels like the bit is chattering as it turns. Am I drilling at too high an rpm? I’ve been wanting to try Forstner bits. Thoughts?
As a blacksmith I think I’ll stick to my corded power drill or drill press
I had an old phone installer once tell me that using a bit-brace was safer than an electric dill when you are drilling through a wall where you may hit an electrical wire.
old school name is brace and bit.
Exactly! To be fair, I suppose that if the brace has no bit installed it could be accurately referred to as a "Bit-Brace".
The name is Brace and Bit. When separated from the bit it is called a brace. The bit part is still called a bit.
yes agreed, we called it in the old days
@@HowardJokela My dad just called it a drill. The plug-in one he called electric drill.
Jonathan that's right brace & bit.
Nice video! How bout the old time hammer drills, that you actually use a hammer on?
That's a thing? Seriously?
@@RexKrueger in two ways. Firstly simply sharpened round bar chisel that one turned a bit betwen every hammerblow (or one brave turned and two strong fellas hit away at with sledgehammers. Those drills were the main reason behind field forges on building sites as they were sharpened by smiths daily. I think i have talked to someone who had that job sharpening drills.
And then i think there is a sligthly more modern style wich works a bit like some ball point pens and turns the drill automatically with each blow.
You say they're cheap and easy to find. Yeah, well, not in Norway, or at least not online, which is my only option nowadays.
If I showed up to work with a bit brace, boss would literally kill me
Don't sell yourself short. Audible would gladly sponsor you. Throw in a history of tools tie in and your content is a perfect fit for that.
You're very kind, but I'm happy to stay independent.
My dad would not let me use a power drill for an entire year. Had to use bit brace or egg beater style. Even for certain metals.
Your dad is evil😂
Why did he do that
How'd you do with metal and the bit brace?
It was slow. Modified drill bits to fit. Taught me appreciation for tools and how material acted when being drill. The entire year was dedicated to hand tools. Drill saw hammer chisles. Wood concrete and metal.
@@garageworksongsawesomeness7002 Wow, I thought my dad was tough.
Strict parents. But what i learned has saved the day to many times to count. Im thankful