I recently bought a traditional looking Case pocket knife. The knives nowadays are getting bigger and more brutal looking all the time. I returned to basics. Does everything I need it to do on hiking and camping trips.
I think that was a fair assessment. The Case cost about 3 to 4 times as much as the Rough Rider. In the end it really comes down to how often you want to touch up the blade. The rope cutting you did was probably equal to about a 6 to 8 months of cutting tasks I do with my knife. Great video. Thanks for sharing. I was actually impressed with both knives!
Hi Tobias. Quite a while after making that video I have found that the Rough Rider Trapper will lose sharpness pretty quickly with a moderate amount of work. Do you know what heat treatment the RR knives undergo? I have another RR knife that had more metal removed from the edge which performs a good deal better.
I purchased a case knife from old man Jenkins at the gun show for $35. After carrying a rough rider for several years I was honestly blown away with the quality. The case was heavier and made work much more enjoyable. Well worth the money
I started buying old beat up old pocket knives when I was about 7 years old. Early on, I ran my finger lengthwise down the blade on one of them out of naivite and stupidity to check the sharpness, and sliced the hell out of my finger. Valuable lesson learned, and the incident was never repeated. Now I check sharpness on my thumbnail. At any rate, I'm 70 which means I've been collecting all kinds of knives for 63 years, and I have quite a collection of old Case (and other) knives. Was looking at them just this afternoon. Pulled out a few of the best and made sure they were sharpened and oiled up. Mostly I use them on and off for whittling/carving kinds of jobs, but also for other chores like slicing paracord, opening boxes etc. Watching you cut on that log while it was wobbling back and forth gave me the heebie jeebies. ;-) Keep a sharp eye out, my friend. Oh, and today I was scanning around on youtube and ran across Brother Knives made in China (I think). Anyhow, looks like some pretty good slip-joint folders at amazingly low prices. Maybe worth looking at or even testing. BTW, do you know what a match-striker blade pull (or nail nick) is? My understanding is that many Rough Rider knives come with them. Maybe old Camillus knives, too. I don't think I've ever seen a Case knife with them.
I don't know if you realize this, but you could have just talked about watching cars rust, and we Americans would listen to your "accent" all day long. But beyond all of that, I thought this was a very informative video, well presented. I wish there was more of this on TH-cam. Thanks!
I like Rough Ryders as well as Case knives. But nowadays the overall quality is better on a RR. Trusharp, 440 Razor Sharp, SS (Victorinox), 420HC.. they are very good for EDC. All that supersteel is just a nerdy hype.. Of course it is better, but only if you use your knife 250 times a day.😅 I prefer Carbon Steel though.. 👌🏻 Good video! Thanks a lot!
I whittle alot with case and rough rider knives and I personally have found the rough rider holds an edge better than the case knives. Just too clarify here. I am a case collector and I really don't like saying that they are out performed by a cheaper knife but that is the what I have found. I use a lansky sharpener and traditional Sheffield made stones too get them shaving sharp before finishing off with a ceramic stone. Once finished they are a mirror edge.
Hello and thanks. They are better, but I seem to use the Rough Riders more simply because I do not mind abusing them. Also the c.v. Case rusts like crazy. I am trying to build up a patina to see if that helps. Thank you very much for your comment.
That's what I was hoping for. I have been slicing oranges and potatoes to build it up. It does not look too pretty but handsome is as handsome does. Thanks
I have had qc issues with case. Always solved with a phone call. I started going over to Buck USA made. A tad bit pricey but no qc issues. I have a 110 slim elite pro. That tends to jump in my pocket every day
Hello again, Vinnie. Since last we corresponded I've bought two Case medium stockmans, a 6318 and a 6344, the latter being the smaller of the two. I'm very happy with both. Just today I bought a Rough Rider trapper. I've been wanting to check out the brand since seeing your earlier video. The store had several patterns that I didn't care for (nice enough knives, but just personal preference regarding style), and had some large trappers with beautiful bone covers. I had no idea what I was going to do with a trapper, but decided to give it a try (I picked the one with dark red jigged bone). It's a darn nice knife, especially for $14US! Since getting it home and touching up the blades just a bit (recalling your experience with the RR stockman) I'm quite happy and impressed. It's a good looking knife and, although larger than I would use for EDC, I'm sure I will enjoy it. For one thing, at first I thought the big spey blade (the one you used in this video) wouldn't have much use, but after spending a little time with it I think I quite like it. I'll bet the RR in your test would come right back in sharpness with a quick touch-up on a hone. I've read several comments lately from people who say they seldom sharpen anymore, but instead just do a little honing after each use. Very nice of your wife to bring back such a great present!
For God's sake William, You are supposed to leave a few knives for the other folks and not be buying everything in sight! Only joking . You guys in the U.S. can get your knives reasonably cheaply, so why not treat yourself every once in a while. I was looking at all the options RR had too, but I like the yellow handles. My RR stockman seems to have been a once off. I got two more RR's and both were pleasantly sharp. As for the little woman,sure wasn't she lucky to get me!
:-) Yes, my wife is lucky, too! I think this knife thing is sort of a manifestation of second childhood, getting interested again in things that appealed to me as a youngster. It's much cheaper and safer than wanting to buy expensive sports cars or chasing after young women. ;-) Well, if the rain stops today I'll have to go out and see what use I can make of this trapper!
Question: Prior to the test, did you sharpen both knives to the same inclusive edge? Edge geometry makes a HUGE difference. Enough to render the test results irrelevant Apples to Halibut Steak. If the Case had/has a more acute edge, it will cut better and the edge will last longer than the Rough Rider's (if applicable) more obtuse edge. I have the Rough Rider RR597 Trapper like yours, and the RR1056 "A Stroke of Luck" Trapper. I don't have a case Trapper, but I do have a Case 2137 SS Sodbuster Junior with stainless steel blade. Case uses 420HC, Rough Rider 440A, by the way. After sharpening them all to 10 degrees per side/20 degrees inclusive on a guided rod sharpener that can go that acute, edge retention is pretty much flip a coin under normal everyday use. Neither holds an edge as long as my Buck 301 stockman, with 420HC blades, also taken to 20 degrees inclusive on all the blades, however. Buck runs their 420HC a point or two, maybe three, harder than Case and Rough Rider do, which explains why the edge lasts a little longer on the Buck.
I didn't measure the edge angles but both were shaving hair as I recall Steve. I would agree that there probably isn't an enormous difference between the steels. The Case CV steel is better. Case have quality control issues that knives in that price range shouldn't have based on my limited experience with them.
My fav patterns are the moose and the trapper. The moose in case you are not familiar come with a clip blade and either a spey, Texas spey or a spear blade. The moose has a blade at each end instead of both blades at one end of the handle like the trapper. Love both patterns. I also love the stockman.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I really like the Moose pocket knife. The one with the clip and Texas spey blades are great skinners while the ones with the clip and the spey or spear are the best for working with wood. Naturally I had to have all three. What I'm looking for is a large three bladed trapper with clip, spey and gut hook blade. No joy so far. Found one with clip, spey and bone saw but let it slide. Two of my mooses (would that be mice?) are Rough Ryders and the third is Camillus. They all pretty. I've got a Muskrat too. Sweet lil knife. Its also a Rough Ryder.
Best pocket knives I ever owned, growing up hunting, fishing, working ranching, farm labor and construction prior to military service, and I've owned numerous folding knives, were the made in USA Schrade Old Timer Blazer , the Case Sodbuster Jr and the Imperial large Sodbuster . Best hunting/butchering knives ever owned, and I've owned numerous, are the made in USA Old Hickory brand knives. Best survival knife I own is a Victorinox Swiss Army Camper with saw blade. Best machete brush knife I ever owned was Tramontina made in Brazil machete.
Hi AnDrew. I've been away for a few weeks on holidays and I've only spotted your messages now. Thank you very much for commenting. I consider it a privilege. I have a Tramontina machete too. It has done a massive amount of work in the last 20 years or so and is still going strong. I only wish there was more of a hook on the handle. The search for a "good" knife can get under your skin eh? I think knife quality has gone downhill in the last twenty or so years. Too many soft back springs and such. I never had much heed in SAK's but guys kept asking me to review them and now I think they are a very good and useful knife. with a saw they can do a lot of work for you. Best regards from Ireland 👍
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I agree with you that Tramontina machetes need more of a hook on the handles. I do not own any Indo-Malay made golok or parang knife but they do seem to make the very best handles for their tools with an ergonomic hook shape pomel on a curved handle so all the power is derived from the wrist motion and letting the tool do the work without risk of losing the tool from a sweaty hand. I do own a hand forged, Nepalese made, WWII Ghurka Battalion khukri with a curved handle and hooked pomel that prevents the tool from flying from one's hand during use. Seems that the South East Asians design much better handles for their machetes than south American machete makers do.
I'm very fond of a Barlow and carried a Marbles Barlow which is pretty much the same blade as an RR. Only slight complaint I had is the folding works jammed up a little easy with sand, dirt and the like. You had to sharpen it a little more than a higher priced knife but it did the job. I did replace it with an A Wright Barlow that is great if you can sharpen a blade as they never arrive sharp but are good, solid carbon steel, like the Case (but not as fancy) it feels dependable in the long term.
I got the A Wright Barlow too but I haven't gotten around to using it. I found the stainless Case trapper to be good but had to return the carbon Case stockman because of a weak back spring. The replacement now has developed a weak back spring too so that is disappointing and does not inspire confidence. I must break out the A Wright and put it to use. It certainly has strong springs.
I came to the conclusion that the rope is not the best testing material. I think it causes micro serrations so the knives still cut paper. You are right. The Case steel is better although from my limited experience Case has quality issues that knives in that price range should not have. Thank you for watching.
I own a rough rider and a case brand knife and find that there is a slightly higher level of finish for the case knife but otherwise they are comparable
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Own almost all. Yeah the rr is lesser to the case and buck 301 but for the price you pay it's a great value all things considered and matches the Schrade if not better. The not so good 440a is crap compared to the tru sharp and Buck bos 420hc and 420j2 on a China buck and even the schrade 3cr 7cr 9cr are better but again half to a fifth of the price and 440a is fine for clothe strings, package tape, or envelopes, which is it's maximum use case and I've carried them for that purpose with satisfactory performance. Have a collection of 58 so far of all brands, types, colors ect. The RR is great and I'll buy more if new ones come out. Love RR's 5 blade sowbelly I really wish I could get a new 5 blade SS case sowbelly.
Hi Cyberdon. I did. It is excellent steel but rusts readily in Irish conditions. The first one I bought developed back spring issues so I sent it back. The replacement has developed a weak back spring on the clip blade (large stockman), almost but not quite so weak that it is dangerous. This has left me with a bad taste in my mouth regarding Case knives.
Hi David. I think I a a bit of a sucker in every respect :-) That is my other Rough Rider and it is not as good as the stockman. It does a bit of work and then all of a sudden it goes blunt. I have been planning to remove more metal from the edge to see if it got over heated when they sharpened it and if it improves when you get past the original edge
Hi Vinnie, I received my rough rider Congress and even now I can give some information on my thoughts though it is early days. My initial impression was very high. It’s nice and tight. Good back springs and halfway stops, no discernible play in any blade. Only slight issue is the two bigger blades rub on one spot so it slightly marks one blade on the side. That’s not a big thing to me. After all it’s got four blades in a slim package and it’s not bad. The blade edges were sharp but rough and a stroping cured that. However when carving wood I found the edge blunting quicker than I would like. I’ve only reprofiled the one big blade as it’s an experiment but I’ve near as dam it put a convex edge on it. The reason behind that thought is because I think it will give more strength to the edge for a longer period. It should have been fine as it came but maybe the steels heat treatments let it down. Most of my carving blades are scandi grind so convex seems the next best to my way of thinking. I could be wrong though. I’ve not fully tested the blade yet I’ve got some mature oak wood I got for making some scales that’s like cutting it granite and should let me know. But all in all it’s a lot of knife for £13
Thanks for the feedback David. As I told you my stockman is better than my trapper to hold an edge. At least you have four blades so your knife should still do a lot of work. I wish more knife makers would do congress patterns. I would like a reasonably good, large one that didn't cost the earth.
The Rough Ryder trapper....is a 10$ knife. The CASE trapper, that one is 60-70$. 1 major difference is the blade steel. 440a in the RR and CASE's TRUE SHARP which is most likely a type of 440C.
The conclusion I have come to is that I'm not impressed with RR at all. I'm not impressed with Case either. I think their Carbon steel is excellent but I doubt true sharp is 440c. It's a pretty ordinary stainless. Let me add an ordinary stainless is perfectly good enough for the vast majority of knife users for all they are doing with their knives. More worrying is their quality control. I only have two Case knives one of which I had to return. The replacement has a really weak back spring . Charging a high price should mean that everything is top quality and shoddy product should not slip through
@@vinniesdayoff3968 ....tell us, what brand/ steel have you come to appreciate the most, enough so that you not only own and carry it, but you would recommend?
@@Orlosthedruid I started out looking for "magic" steel. I have come to the realisation that how the knife is built is as important if not more important than the steel, I like a thin blade and a knife that has been made by a company with good quality control. I had no interest in Swiss Army Knives but now believe they are excellent. I like the Buck 110 but recently got a Buck 112 and I think it is even more suitable for me. I have a barlow from A Wright and Sons and I really like it too.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 ...good, honest answers. I love my SAK Fieldmaster. My CASE Barlow is YET to return from being serviced for a loose blade after only 60 years of service, and when it comes to BUCKS....I bought 4 this Christmas. 1 fixed blade and 3 of the new 110/112 DROP POINT styles. I like the drop point blade shape much more than a clip.
I just got a yellow synthetic trapper, my first case, and it really nice. However the spey blade kind of "hyper extends" when you put pressure on it. It pushes the back spring outward, leading to some up and down play. It's also kind of uncomfortable when the lock bar pushes out. I'm scared it's gonna break it if I use that blade too hard. Should I be worried or is it okay. On a good note, it took a nice edge and the clip point blade has nice action. It's also very nice looking. It's also surprisingly comfortable coming from a buck 100, it holds up well. I just hate that the spey blade has problems.
I only have a few case knives and unfortunately in my limited experience they have quality control problems. I believe they are covered by a good guarantee though. I would contact the seller and get them to exchange the knife for another one. They are not cheap and you shouldn't accept bad workmanship.
I got the case and then went looking at the Rough Riders meaning to get a different handle material, and there was a big selection. After much looking and thinking about it I ordered the yellow. I like them too
I scratch my knife buying itch with inexpensive but high quality Chinese made knives. The Ganzo G725M is a really nice small stockman. It's a good as much more expensive knives of that type. Here in the US you can get them from GearBest for less than$8 now.
Someone mentioned them in the comments already. I had a look and it was 10 euros delivered so I got one. Pretty little thing, and came pleasantly sharp. Would be ideal for trout fishing etc. I have not had a chance to use it yet
Buying a case knife is definitely a gamble these days when it comes to quality control. The ones I have that don’t have cc issues are great knives. I don’t even want case to lower there prices. I just want them to step up quality control. I payed 100 bucks for a Caribbean blue camel bone mini copper lock, and the gaps between the scales and liners, as well as the gaps between the scales and bolsters, were absolutely Horrendous. Then I paid 40 bucks for a medium synthetic jack, and the knife is damn near perfect. Same with my sodbuster.
I very much agree with you. I didn't know anything about them and the videos are kind of a log of my experiences. I took my stockman out of a drawer one day and fount the back spring had snapped into two pieces. I never saw such a thing to happen in my life. I asked my dad if he had ever seen such a thing and he had not. So that's about 130 years of combined experience and Case is the only company it happened with. I returned it to Heinne Haynes and got another in exchange. The second one has a ridiculously weak spring on the clip blade. They have serious quality issues and I won't be buying any more Case knives.
@theartshow1476 they have been mass produced for a long time. I've bought lots of newer knives too, and still haven't had any problems besides the blades not being perfectly sharpened, but I always reprofile and sharpen them to my liking
Thanks for this post and your earlier one comparing Case CV to Rough RIder SS stockmans. I was surprised to see the stockman test showing the two knives neck and neck and this one showing more of a difference. I really thought the CV would easily hold the better edge. I would love to see you do a Case CV vs Case Tru-Sharp comparison.
What happened, I believe, was that the Rough Rider came to me with a very rough edge. I had done so much sharpening on it that I had reduced the angle of the bevel making it very sharp. The c.v. blade is much much harder. It took no damage whereas the Rough Rider edge had rolled a lot. If I had left the edges closer to the original factory edge there would have been no contest
For me on a budget I would get the rough rider, but if money wasn't a problem then I would get the case. The case is around $40-$45 now around here while the rough rider is $12-$15.
Hi William. I only have two Case knives. The stainless trapper is going well. My CV stockman was returned because it developed a back spring problem. The replacement now has a very weak back spring on the clip blade. The CV steel is hard and holds an edge well but I am very disappointed with Case. The RR's are a fraction of the price and they are still going strong
A very balanced and honest review, the Roughriders look excellent value for money. I've use a Case mini trapper SS in yellow Delrin for over ten years and it's a cracking knife for mooching about the countryside. I'm tempted by the Case large stockman in yellow Delrin but with CV blades. I read online that some Case folk believe the CV steel is for using and the SS steel is for collectors? Thanks again for sharing Vinnie. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Hi Garry. Don't know much about the collecting side, the cv case is a fine knife, but very prone to rust in its new shiny state. It will also rust inside the handle.. I have put a patina on the blade to see if it resists rust better. I would think you would still need to be careful about oiling. It makes a fine hunting knife. So does the Rough Rider. The large blade on my Case does not have the most impressive spring I ever saw. I would expect better for the cost. Maybe if you had a shop where you could try before you buy.
Hi Vinnie I've found the edge retention on my Case to be fine, usually just strop after returning home from mooching about. I'll see if our local gun shop has any Rough riders in stock to have a look. Grand to see pocket knives being put to the test. All the best from Scotland. Garry
I've never seen a Case XX with a poor spring. Case uses half stops, which are important in slip joint knives, so the spring doesn't have to be as strong, and it's set where the majority of uses requested it.
Hi James. I did not say it was poor. said it was not impressive. I have just taken it out to check. The sheepsfoot and spey blades on the knife have good resistance to closing, which is good for safety in my book. The clip point is about half as strong as the others, and gives me the impression of being a bit limp. My Rough Rider trapper is much stronger m
James Ritchie I agree though I recently bought a Case Large Stockman in CV and it doesn't have half stops. Is this a new feature or do Stockman's not feature half stops ? Thanks for your advice.
Maybe take note to other people on youtube when they do cut tests. They sharpen both knives with the same grind and to the same sharpness. My question is have either been sharpened before? Plus, in any brand, some come with better edges, some with worse edges, which is exactly why others sharpen them first due to every company's inconsistent edges from the factory. I own many case knives, and some came so dull they wouldn't cut paper at all, so would you, in your opinion, say that knife had worse steel than rough ryder?
the Case looks to be the best of the two oh by the way Vinnie you where mentioned on one of my knife groups on facebook. thats how i found your channel. the guy said you did a more honest review on the mora knife ....I dont know how you feel about facebook but i sent you a link to one of the clubs. hope you find something you like the guy your looking for in Ireland is Jay E Lee he is the best to buy from. there are a lot of other sellers but they may be from Canada or the USA or somewhere in Europe
Great video review. Let's be realistic and honest though, the case and the rough rider basically performed extremely similar. Rough rider knives are just cheaper versions of case knives.
Thank you. After using these knives quite a bit I say that Case steel is better. In my limited experience Case has quality control problems that should not exist when you consider what they charge
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I've known about case, but am just now getting into their products/company. But I can already discern that, they sell their products way overpriced for the mediocre performance they provide, and there's other companies out here who sell their products at a much better price, that perform just as well as case products do. So why should a person pay the price of what case sells for, when what case sells performs like a cheaper product?. Case will sell you a knife for $50.00-$75.00, but it'll be a knife that performs like a $20.00 knife. I just can't bring myself to purchase from case, until they step their game up and take responsibility for actually providing real cost/price worthy quality.
@@hostilemgtow603 i found the case cv to be very good steel although it rusts easily in Irish conditions but I have had two knives with back spring problems
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I understand what you're saying, but the facts of the matter is that, both the case, and the RR performed similarly. This fact instantaneously unjusitifies the prices that case charges it's customers. That was my point.
That's true Randall. I think I said at the start of the video that it was not a live or die contest but an attempt to give some information at that time
Is this test out of the box, with the factory edge? If so you should have sharpened them equally, then tested them. As such, not sure what this shows other than the relative factory edges.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 Hard for me to say..as there years between me owning them & some one else fell in 💘 with them so I can't make the comparisons unfortunately.. The CV did tarnish while in storage
The only folder I carry in a sheath is the Buck 110 because it is so heavy Mary. I don't have any problems with holes in my pockets. Even if I did have a hole in my pocket I normally wear wellies ( every farmer in Ireland can't be wrong) and the knife would just end up in there :-)
Hi Lars, we have no legal size here, if we are not involved in an activity where we can justify having a knife, we cannot carry any knife. We take action against criminals by punishing law abiding citizens. The wholesale stabbings and murders continue
Vinnie it is my understanding that factory edges often demonstrate the worst of the edge holding that a knife has to offer due to overheating of the steel during the factory sharpening process. The information follows that as the user grinds away the old over-heated steel, with a more mild sharpening technique, they will slowly unveil steel that hasnt been damaged by the high heat of the grinders used to sharpen the knives in factory, thus improving the edge holding over time. My question to you is, have you perhaps experienced this or do you have any thoughts on the subject? I can't say I can definitively confirm or deny the above through personal use. Thanks in advance & thanks for another great video.
Well, I have not done any kind of scientific analysis which you would have to do to be able to say for sure, but I never had much time for any factory edge. Even if they are sharp they don't seem to be as good as, like you say, when the knife has been used and sharpened a few times. Just my feeling I suppose. Thank you for watching. What kind of hound do you have?
I rescued a lab mix pup some years back, she turned 6 in April this year. Black in color, about 40 lbs, smart as a whip, and my dearest friend. Lucky to have her in my life and it warms my heart to see you and Dyson carrying on. I've watched your whole collection of videos now and its been obvious from the first one how much that little guy admires you and loves his life & certainly your kindness returned. ---- & Thank you for that response regarding the factory edges, it mirrors what i've heard from several of the other knife lovers I've met and chatted with in my life. Many would find joy in sharpening their new blade straight away, some even taking weeks to finally get "their edge" on the knife and proudly claim it to be sharp.
Creo que te faltó hacer una prueba de corte de papel antes que de soga para ver cuál era el filo inicial. Me quedo con la rough rider por el doble de precio la CASE apenas es un poco superior. Muy buen video. Gracias
Tienes razón Enrique. Debería haber demostrado lo afilados que eran. Ambos fueron muy agudos al principio. Solo tengo dos cuchillos Rough Rider. Este se vuelve contundente rápidamente, el otro cuchillo es mejor. Son de buen valor y harán un trabajo por usted. También resisten el óxido muy bien. Espero haber traducido esto correctamente. Muchas gracias por mirar
@@vinniesdayoff3968 Si excelente su traducción. Gracias por tomarse el tiempo. El acero que más me gusta de CASE el cromo vanadio. Es casi insuperable en navajas tradicionales, me gustaría en un futuro usted haga esa prueba aver si realmente es mejor que el true Sharp. Saludos
@@enriqueaguilera9338 En mi opinión es mejor Enrique. Sin embargo, mi navaja Case desarrolló problemas de resorte trasero, así que lo devolví. El cuchillo de reemplazo que recibí ahora ha desarrollado un resorte trasero muy débil. Creo que Case debe tener problemas de control de calidad. Estoy muy decepcionado porque para mí es un cuchillo relativamente caro. Si no fuera por estos problemas y el hecho de que desarrollará óxido en condiciones irlandesas a menos que tenga mucho cuidado con la lubricación, no pediría más de un cuchillo. Los cuchillos de la Case han dejado un mal sabor en mi boca desafortunadamente
@@vinniesdayoff3968 woww comparto tu misma desilución por navajas case tengo una Buster jr ss y sus bordes son malisimos. Te comparto mi WhatsApp para intercambiar fotos y videos de mis navajas. +52 866 234 1631. Saludos
It's not the factory edge. That Rough Rider proved to dull quickly with moderate work. I'm going to take more steel from the edge and see if it improves.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 true sharp is likely heat treated better to a higher rockwell. The reason I asked is because I've gotten dozens of case knives with very rough edges out of the box definitely not cutting paper smoothly. I was curious about your experience.
@@-trmxzer0-235 I only have a couple. The blades were nicely sharp. My stockman has developed a not very strong back spring on the clip blade. Not so weak as to say it was defective but less than impressive. Have you noticed that happening in your knives?
The back springs do seem to break in a bit after use. I've noticed some on mine but I have only a few regular carrys. But nothing serious enough to cause issues. Might have to check around see if others have experienced a similar decrease in back strength?
I really enjoy your videos Vinnie, good stuff. I've found the same, I think the Case Tru Sharp holds an edge better but I also find that it holds a burr more stubbornly than the Rough Rider steel.
Thank you very much Logan, I think you have hit the nail on the head there. I find it harder to get rid of a burr on the Case knives too. Thank you for watching.
Nice video, you got yourself another subscriber! How would you compare sharpening these two knives? Looks like the RR is perhaps just a little softer than the Case, does that make it a little easier to sharpen?
My rough ryder knives usually come somewhat dull even though the blade says it's sharp. 2-3 minutes on lansky ceramics rods and it's very sharp. Also, you can't tell the blades have been sharpened since the rods mainly remove any burr that exists.
I think the case cv steel is excellent Christian and normally I would say go for the Case. The case stainless is better than RR but for normal use most people wouldn't notice much difference. My first case cv knife had to be returned because of a serious back spring problem. The replacement has a weak back spring on the clip point blade. In my limited experience case leaves a bad taste in the mouth. As far as I can tell they have quality control problems. The RR knives are OK as beaters but if you want a good hard steel and something you can take satisfaction from owning I would buy something else.
Case comes with a better edge. Rough Rider usually does but sometimes not finished off as well and needs a bit of a hone/stropping to finish off the toothy edge. Once this is done it will hang with the case no problem. I have several RR's and am amazed at the value... pretty good.
Vinnie have you tried varying the edge angle on that Rough Ryder to see how the edge retention is affected. I may not get the chance. I have cancer. Found out last week.
I am so sorry to hear that. There are very few families that are not affected by cancer. Treatment has come a long way though so don't lose hope. I know quite a few people who have made good recoveries. I only have a few RR knives. The first one I got had a very rough burr on the edge that I found hard to get rid of for some reason. I did quite a lot of sharpening and have given it a thin profile and it (it's the stockman) is noticeably better in every way than the trapper which is closer to the factory sharpened bevels. I'll say a prayer for you my friend.
You should get a hold of some great eastern cutlery slip joints. They cost a pretty penny and they are only made in short batches but they are superior quality to any slip joint I know of
I saw it all right. thanks very much. In my experience the Rough Riders are perfectly good knives. Are you in the US? If you are they are very cheap there
In a test like this edge geometry is very important. Plus I don't think it is fair to cut with the factory edge. We know how that can be hit or miss with any brand of knife.
I agree with you 100% about edge geometry. Thinness of the blade and it's shape and edge angle can make a cheap steel outperform a fancy super steel. Both of these knives had been sharpened on a stone and stropped so it wasn't really a factory edge although perhaps close to the factory edge. I did a similar test with another RR knife and it performed much better than this one. Having used the trapper for quite a while now I find it does a moderate amount of work and then goes completely blunt. I have been thinking of taking it to a stone and removing steel and maybe thinning the edge a little to see if that helps. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
After "old timer" went to China. I switched to "Case". To be honest. I haven't been impressed. Within a year of ownership. The blade started rusting, and the Case badge fell off. I contacted Case. They said they would mail me a new shield. That was 4 months ago.
Hi Stanley, my Case trapper is a good knife however, I had backspring issues with my CV stockman and I had to return it. The replacement now has a pretty weak backspring too. My experience is a bit different from the marketing hype of old time quality. A pity really.
Both of those knives are still sharp enough that you should have no trouble cutting that rope. You seem out of breath, which probably means you were trying to cut the rope, rather than letting the knives do the work. You should be able to do that all day without getting tired. Anyway, Rough Rider knives use 440a steel, which isn't all that bad. It's more than good enough for every use these knives are meant to do. Case XX, though, uses a proprietary 440c steel, which is one of the best steels out there. I like it better than any of the so-called "super" steels on a working knife. It holds and edge far longer than 440a, but remains easy to sharpen. But cutting tests like this are pretty meaningless. They aren't scientific, they have nothing to do with how well the knives perform the tasks they were designed to do, and they don't take into account the fact that you should never use a knife until it gets dull. Such tests don't even take into accunt the grind and bevel angle on each knife. As for high carbon versus stainless, Case uses 1095 CV, which is considerably more corrosion resistant than ordinary 1095, but it isn't difficult to keep any 1095 from rushing. It takes very little care, but many people prefer the patina such steel develops, if you let it. High carbon steel is definitely better for wilderness use because it sharpens easily, even on a river rock, and you can also use it to strike a spark from flint, something you can't do with any stainless steel. Either of these things could save your life in a survival situation. Anyway, while you can often tell if a knife is pure junk quickly, the only way you can judge quality knives accurately against another knife is to use both knives for several months, and see how each holds up to multiple uses of tasks the knives are designed to do.
Hmmm. A lot of points there. Try cutting three quarter inch rope multiple times and see if you can do it all day. Although the R.R. still cut paper(how I don't know) it felt very blunt cutting the rope. My experience with the Case c.v. is that I put it away after some light cutting(without oiling it) and next day had red rust formed. I got it off with metal polish and decided it needed a patina. How much protection this will give the Case I have yet to find out. While I agree fully That there are many variables, and the test may not be scientific, it is much better than sitting at a coffee table and talking about it which is what most people do on TH-cam. I am doing my best to help people who want to buy knives to use. I think there is nothing wrong with Rough Riders at all. I said that in the video.
I agree that using a knife for some months is the best way to test it, but how do you show that in a TH-cam video? I have struggled for some time to come up with just such a test, but it is not as easy to show this in a video as one might think.
From my limited experience Case do not live up to their own hype. You would expect more from what is for me at least (on this side of the pond) a reasonably pricey knife
Great vid has made me consider looking at rough rider knives. By any chance have you looked at Killkennyknifeandtool.com they have a good range of knives and other useful items, dont know about shipping or customer service yet though
I was looking at them. Interesting kind of place. I googled one of their Rough Rider knives (cost 13.95) and delivery in Ireland is 5.95 euro. Not too bad. How are you keeping Oglaigh?, any more mink?
vinniesdayoff Yeah its a very good site just havent had the chance of ordering. Im good thanks for asking. Unfortunatley ive had no luck since i caught the one that killed my hens dont really know whats wrong ive been using fresh mackrel and have been digging the trap into the bank. I think the problem is we moved the remaining hens into a portable run that was near a river and maybye the sound and smell was drawing them in.
Hi Douglas. I have come to the conclusion that they are a beater knife and they don't inspire admiration from me. I was trying out various knives I saw on TH-cam to learn for myself what the truth was. I have to say from my very limited experience that Case have serious QC issues as well that have no right to be in a knife that costs as much as they charge. Thanks very much for your comment.
Okay Robert. I admit it is not as good as in your many videos. Oh wait a minute, you don't have any. Why are people who do not create anything the most critical?
I recently bought a traditional looking Case pocket knife. The knives nowadays are getting bigger and more brutal looking all the time. I returned to basics. Does everything I need it to do on hiking and camping trips.
I agree with your approach on pocket knives. The Trapper and Stockman series are not only practical, but a connection to the past.
I think that was a fair assessment. The Case cost about 3 to 4 times as much as the Rough Rider. In the end it really comes down to how often you want to touch up the blade. The rope cutting you did was probably equal to about a 6 to 8 months of cutting tasks I do with my knife. Great video. Thanks for sharing. I was actually impressed with both knives!
Hi Tobias. Quite a while after making that video I have found that the Rough Rider Trapper will lose sharpness pretty quickly with a moderate amount of work. Do you know what heat treatment the RR knives undergo? I have another RR knife that had more metal removed from the edge which performs a good deal better.
@@vinniesdayoff3968, Thanks for the added info. Unfortunately, I do not know their heat treat.
Great review good to see some one cutting something rather than just talking about how nice their knives look
Thanks Eric. I am trying to show what the knives are like to cut for those people who use them.
I really like how you are express your thoughts in a good and considerate way.
Thank you Chris, I appreciate that.
I purchased a case knife from old man Jenkins at the gun show for $35. After carrying a rough rider for several years I was honestly blown away with the quality. The case was heavier and made work much more enjoyable. Well worth the money
Old man Jenkins sounds like someone who would drink moonshine while whittling :-) Thank you for watching.
I started buying old beat up old pocket knives when I was about 7 years old. Early on, I ran my finger lengthwise down the blade on one of them out of naivite and stupidity to check the sharpness, and sliced the hell out of my finger. Valuable lesson learned, and the incident was never repeated. Now I check sharpness on my thumbnail. At any rate, I'm 70 which means I've been collecting all kinds of knives for 63 years, and I have quite a collection of old Case (and other) knives. Was looking at them just this afternoon. Pulled out a few of the best and made sure they were sharpened and oiled up. Mostly I use them on and off for whittling/carving kinds of jobs, but also for other chores like slicing paracord, opening boxes etc. Watching you cut on that log while it was wobbling back and forth gave me the heebie jeebies. ;-) Keep a sharp eye out, my friend. Oh, and today I was scanning around on youtube and ran across Brother Knives made in China (I think). Anyhow, looks like some pretty good slip-joint folders at amazingly low prices. Maybe worth looking at or even testing. BTW, do you know what a match-striker blade pull (or nail nick) is? My understanding is that many Rough Rider knives come with them. Maybe old Camillus knives, too. I don't think I've ever seen a Case knife with them.
I was away from home and I couldn't remember if they had match-striker nail nicks. I'm home now and they do. (I have three)
I don't know if you realize this, but you could have just talked about watching cars rust, and we Americans would listen to your "accent" all day long. But beyond all of that, I thought this was a very informative video, well presented. I wish there was more of this on TH-cam. Thanks!
Thanks very much indeed my friend 👍☺
I like Rough Ryders as well as Case knives. But nowadays the overall quality is better on a RR.
Trusharp, 440 Razor Sharp, SS (Victorinox), 420HC.. they are very good for EDC. All that supersteel is just a nerdy hype.. Of course it is better, but only if you use your knife 250 times a day.😅
I prefer Carbon Steel though.. 👌🏻
Good video! Thanks a lot!
You speak sense my friend
Hello cyclist and thank you for watching. I have found Rough Riders to be not bad, but that Case stainless had the harder steel.
Not yet
I whittle alot with case and rough rider knives and I personally have found the rough rider holds an edge better than the case knives. Just too clarify here. I am a case collector and I really don't like saying that they are out performed by a cheaper knife but that is the what I have found. I use a lansky sharpener and traditional Sheffield made stones too get them shaving sharp before finishing off with a ceramic stone. Once finished they are a mirror edge.
I'm a carver too. Same here with all you said.
Nice comparison... I own dozens of Case knives and one Rough Rider... The Case is worth the extra to me.
Hello and thanks. They are better, but I seem to use the Rough Riders more simply because I do not mind abusing them. Also the c.v. Case rusts like crazy. I am trying to build up a patina to see if that helps. Thank you very much for your comment.
vinniesdayoff the patina is key with the CV. I carry a Slimline Trapper in CV everyday. I have a nice patina on it and have no problem with rust.
vinniesdayoff the patina is key with the CV. I carry a Slimline Trapper in CV everyday. I have a nice patina on it and have no problem with rust.
That's what I was hoping for. I have been slicing oranges and potatoes to build it up. It does not look too pretty but handsome is as handsome does. Thanks
vinniesdayoff I just carry and use mine. Don't do anything to force a patina it's just coming natural from use.
I have had qc issues with case. Always solved with a phone call. I started going over to Buck USA made. A tad bit pricey but no qc issues. I have a 110 slim elite pro. That tends to jump in my pocket every day
Hello again, Vinnie. Since last we corresponded I've bought two Case medium stockmans, a 6318 and a 6344, the latter being the smaller of the two. I'm very happy with both. Just today I bought a Rough Rider trapper. I've been wanting to check out the brand since seeing your earlier video. The store had several patterns that I didn't care for (nice enough knives, but just personal preference regarding style), and had some large trappers with beautiful bone covers. I had no idea what I was going to do with a trapper, but decided to give it a try (I picked the one with dark red jigged bone). It's a darn nice knife, especially for $14US! Since getting it home and touching up the blades just a bit (recalling your experience with the RR stockman) I'm quite happy and impressed. It's a good looking knife and, although larger than I would use for EDC, I'm sure I will enjoy it. For one thing, at first I thought the big spey blade (the one you used in this video) wouldn't have much use, but after spending a little time with it I think I quite like it.
I'll bet the RR in your test would come right back in sharpness with a quick touch-up on a hone. I've read several comments lately from people who say they seldom sharpen anymore, but instead just do a little honing after each use.
Very nice of your wife to bring back such a great present!
For God's sake William, You are supposed to leave a few knives for the other folks and not be buying everything in sight! Only joking . You guys in the U.S. can get your knives reasonably cheaply, so why not treat yourself every once in a while. I was looking at all the options RR had too, but I like the yellow handles. My RR stockman seems to have been a once off. I got two more RR's and both were pleasantly sharp. As for the little woman,sure wasn't she lucky to get me!
:-) Yes, my wife is lucky, too! I think this knife thing is sort of a manifestation of second childhood, getting interested again in things that appealed to me as a youngster. It's much cheaper and safer than wanting to buy expensive sports cars or chasing after young women. ;-)
Well, if the rain stops today I'll have to go out and see what use I can make of this trapper!
I am not like you William, I never grew up (or so I'm told)
Question: Prior to the test, did you sharpen both knives to the same inclusive edge?
Edge geometry makes a HUGE difference. Enough to render the test results irrelevant Apples to Halibut Steak.
If the Case had/has a more acute edge, it will cut better and the edge will last longer than the Rough Rider's (if applicable) more obtuse edge.
I have the Rough Rider RR597 Trapper like yours, and the RR1056 "A Stroke of Luck" Trapper. I don't have a case Trapper, but I do have a Case 2137 SS Sodbuster Junior with stainless steel blade. Case uses 420HC, Rough Rider 440A, by the way.
After sharpening them all to 10 degrees per side/20 degrees inclusive on a guided rod sharpener that can go that acute, edge retention is pretty much flip a coin under normal everyday use.
Neither holds an edge as long as my Buck 301 stockman, with 420HC blades, also taken to 20 degrees inclusive on all the blades, however.
Buck runs their 420HC a point or two, maybe three, harder than Case and Rough Rider do, which explains why the edge lasts a little longer on the Buck.
I didn't measure the edge angles but both were shaving hair as I recall Steve. I would agree that there probably isn't an enormous difference between the steels. The Case CV steel is better. Case have quality control issues that knives in that price range shouldn't have based on my limited experience with them.
My fav patterns are the moose and the trapper. The moose in case you are not familiar come with a clip blade and either a spey, Texas spey or a spear blade. The moose has a blade at each end instead of both blades at one end of the handle like the trapper. Love both patterns. I also love the stockman.
I like the look of the moose. Never saw one in real life though
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I really like the Moose pocket knife. The one with the clip and Texas spey blades are great skinners while the ones with the clip and the spey or spear are the best for working with wood. Naturally I had to have all three. What I'm looking for is a large three bladed trapper with clip, spey and gut hook blade. No joy so far. Found one with clip, spey and bone saw but let it slide. Two of my mooses (would that be mice?) are Rough Ryders and the third is Camillus. They all pretty. I've got a Muskrat too. Sweet lil knife. Its also a Rough Ryder.
I bought a Marble's trapper. Very good knife for only 14 bucks
Get past the knife snobbery many people go on with and we find that a basic knife will do anything we need it to do and will last for years
Best pocket knives I ever owned, growing up hunting, fishing, working ranching, farm labor and construction prior to military service, and I've owned numerous folding knives, were the made in USA Schrade Old Timer Blazer , the Case Sodbuster Jr and the Imperial large Sodbuster .
Best hunting/butchering knives ever owned, and I've owned numerous, are the made in USA Old Hickory brand knives.
Best survival knife I own is a Victorinox Swiss Army Camper with saw blade.
Best machete brush knife I ever owned was Tramontina made in Brazil machete.
Hi AnDrew. I've been away for a few weeks on holidays and I've only spotted your messages now. Thank you very much for commenting. I consider it a privilege. I have a Tramontina machete too. It has done a massive amount of work in the last 20 years or so and is still going strong. I only wish there was more of a hook on the handle. The search for a "good" knife can get under your skin eh? I think knife quality has gone downhill in the last twenty or so years. Too many soft back springs and such. I never had much heed in SAK's but guys kept asking me to review them and now I think they are a very good and useful knife. with a saw they can do a lot of work for you. Best regards from Ireland 👍
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I agree with you that Tramontina machetes need more of a hook on the handles.
I do not own any Indo-Malay made golok or parang knife but they do seem to make the very best handles for their tools with an ergonomic hook shape pomel on a curved handle so all the power is derived from the wrist motion and letting the tool do the work without risk of losing the tool from a sweaty hand.
I do own a hand forged, Nepalese made, WWII Ghurka Battalion khukri with a curved handle and hooked pomel that prevents the tool from flying from one's hand during use.
Seems that the South East Asians design much better handles for their machetes than south American machete makers do.
I'm very fond of a Barlow and carried a Marbles Barlow which is pretty much the same blade as an RR. Only slight complaint I had is the folding works jammed up a little easy with sand, dirt and the like. You had to sharpen it a little more than a higher priced knife but it did the job. I did replace it with an A Wright Barlow that is great if you can sharpen a blade as they never arrive sharp but are good, solid carbon steel, like the Case (but not as fancy) it feels dependable in the long term.
I got the A Wright Barlow too but I haven't gotten around to using it. I found the stainless Case trapper to be good but had to return the carbon Case stockman because of a weak back spring. The replacement now has developed a weak back spring too so that is disappointing and does not inspire confidence. I must break out the A Wright and put it to use. It certainly has strong springs.
The Case knife cut the paper better after 20 and 30 cuts than the RR did after 10 cuts.
I came to the conclusion that the rope is not the best testing material. I think it causes micro serrations so the knives still cut paper. You are right. The Case steel is better although from my limited experience Case has quality issues that knives in that price range should not have. Thank you for watching.
I don't own a case but I have 11 models of rough rider and they are all very good
Good vid as always
Thanks John James, the Rough Riders are honest knives
I own a rough rider and a case brand knife and find that there is a slightly higher level of finish for the case knife but otherwise they are comparable
Own almost all. Yeah the rr is lesser to the case and buck 301 but for the price you pay it's a great value all things considered and matches the Schrade if not better. The not so good 440a is crap compared to the tru sharp and Buck bos 420hc and 420j2 on a China buck and even the schrade 3cr 7cr 9cr are better but again half to a fifth of the price and 440a is fine for clothe strings, package tape, or envelopes, which is it's maximum use case and I've carried them for that purpose with satisfactory performance. Have a collection of 58 so far of all brands, types, colors ect. The RR is great and I'll buy more if new ones come out. Love RR's 5 blade sowbelly I really wish I could get a new 5 blade SS case sowbelly.
@ John James Buy Made in the USA Or move to China Buddy !
Thanks for this vid. We need more out there like this with other brands like Rough Ryder.
You should really try Case's chrome vanadium steel.
Hi Cyberdon. I did. It is excellent steel but rusts readily in Irish conditions. The first one I bought developed back spring issues so I sent it back. The replacement has developed a weak back spring on the clip blade (large stockman), almost but not quite so weak that it is dangerous. This has left me with a bad taste in my mouth regarding Case knives.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 Ouch. Understandable.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 From my own experience, I would say Case quality control is hit or miss, and their customer service is lacking overall.
@@cyberdon9668 They are reasonably expensive, at least they are by the time they get to Ireland and shipping and duties are paid. I expected more.
Wow Vinnie you’re a sucker for punishment. I wasn’t expecting you to try for that last ten. Dedication indeed
Hi David. I think I a a bit of a sucker in every respect :-) That is my other Rough Rider and it is not as good as the stockman. It does a bit of work and then all of a sudden it goes blunt. I have been planning to remove more metal from the edge to see if it got over heated when they sharpened it and if it improves when you get past the original edge
Hi Vinnie, I received my rough rider Congress and even now I can give some information on my thoughts though it is early days. My initial impression was very high. It’s nice and tight. Good back springs and halfway stops, no discernible play in any blade. Only slight issue is the two bigger blades rub on one spot so it slightly marks one blade on the side. That’s not a big thing to me. After all it’s got four blades in a slim package and it’s not bad. The blade edges were sharp but rough and a stroping cured that. However when carving wood I found the edge blunting quicker than I would like. I’ve only reprofiled the one big blade as it’s an experiment but I’ve near as dam it put a convex edge on it. The reason behind that thought is because I think it will give more strength to the edge for a longer period. It should have been fine as it came but maybe the steels heat treatments let it down. Most of my carving blades are scandi grind so convex seems the next best to my way of thinking. I could be wrong though. I’ve not fully tested the blade yet I’ve got some mature oak wood I got for making some scales that’s like cutting it granite and should let me know. But all in all it’s a lot of knife for £13
Thanks for the feedback David. As I told you my stockman is better than my trapper to hold an edge. At least you have four blades so your knife should still do a lot of work. I wish more knife makers would do congress patterns. I would like a reasonably good, large one that didn't cost the earth.
The Rough Ryder trapper....is a 10$ knife.
The CASE trapper, that one is 60-70$.
1 major difference is the blade steel. 440a in the RR and CASE's TRUE SHARP which is most likely a type of 440C.
The conclusion I have come to is that I'm not impressed with RR at all. I'm not impressed with Case either. I think their Carbon steel is excellent but I doubt true sharp is 440c. It's a pretty ordinary stainless. Let me add an ordinary stainless is perfectly good enough for the vast majority of knife users for all they are doing with their knives. More worrying is their quality control. I only have two Case knives one of which I had to return. The replacement has a really weak back spring . Charging a high price should mean that everything is top quality and shoddy product should not slip through
@@vinniesdayoff3968 ....tell us, what brand/ steel have you come to appreciate the most, enough so that you not only own and carry it, but you would recommend?
@@Orlosthedruid I started out looking for "magic" steel. I have come to the realisation that how the knife is built is as important if not more important than the steel, I like a thin blade and a knife that has been made by a company with good quality control. I had no interest in Swiss Army Knives but now believe they are excellent. I like the Buck 110 but recently got a Buck 112 and I think it is even more suitable for me. I have a barlow from A Wright and Sons and I really like it too.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 ...good, honest answers.
I love my SAK Fieldmaster. My CASE Barlow is YET to return from being serviced for a loose blade after only 60 years of service, and when it comes to BUCKS....I bought 4 this Christmas. 1 fixed blade and 3 of the new 110/112 DROP POINT styles.
I like the drop point blade shape much more than a clip.
It is 6/10/2024 And CASE "STILL" has not returned my Barlow knife. Talk about slow service.
I want a rough rider knife might get one can't afford a case
I just got a yellow synthetic trapper, my first case, and it really nice. However the spey blade kind of "hyper extends" when you put pressure on it. It pushes the back spring outward, leading to some up and down play. It's also kind of uncomfortable when the lock bar pushes out. I'm scared it's gonna break it if I use that blade too hard. Should I be worried or is it okay.
On a good note, it took a nice edge and the clip point blade has nice action. It's also very nice looking. It's also surprisingly comfortable coming from a buck 100, it holds up well. I just hate that the spey blade has problems.
I only have a few case knives and unfortunately in my limited experience they have quality control problems. I believe they are covered by a good guarantee though. I would contact the seller and get them to exchange the knife for another one. They are not cheap and you shouldn't accept bad workmanship.
Nice review good info I subbed keep em coming I'll be watching
Many thanks Fishin!
My father always carried yellow handled Case knives and so I have a fondness for them too.
I got the case and then went looking at the Rough Riders meaning to get a different handle material, and there was a big selection. After much looking and thinking about it I ordered the yellow. I like them too
Case also makes the Medium Stockman with a punch blade (awl) that I think would be a good all around knife.
Hmmm. It's hard to stop from buying everything, eh?
I scratch my knife buying itch with inexpensive but high quality Chinese made knives. The Ganzo G725M is a really nice small stockman. It's a good as much more expensive knives of that type. Here in the US you can get them from GearBest for less than$8 now.
Someone mentioned them in the comments already. I had a look and it was 10 euros delivered so I got one. Pretty little thing, and came pleasantly sharp. Would be ideal for trout fishing etc. I have not had a chance to use it yet
Buying a case knife is definitely a gamble these days when it comes to quality control. The ones I have that don’t have cc issues are great knives. I don’t even want case to lower there prices. I just want them to step up quality control. I payed 100 bucks for a Caribbean blue camel bone mini copper lock, and the gaps between the scales and liners, as well as the gaps between the scales and bolsters, were absolutely Horrendous. Then I paid 40 bucks for a medium synthetic jack, and the knife is damn near perfect. Same with my sodbuster.
I very much agree with you. I didn't know anything about them and the videos are kind of a log of my experiences. I took my stockman out of a drawer one day and fount the back spring had snapped into two pieces. I never saw such a thing to happen in my life. I asked my dad if he had ever seen such a thing and he had not. So that's about 130 years of combined experience and Case is the only company it happened with. I returned it to Heinne Haynes and got another in exchange. The second one has a ridiculously weak spring on the clip blade. They have serious quality issues and I won't be buying any more Case knives.
I've had over a hundred case knives, and haven't had a problem out of any of them
@@dereksteele2284 i believe that. Case was clearly better before they were bought up and started mass production at a higher pace.
@theartshow1476 they have been mass produced for a long time. I've bought lots of newer knives too, and still haven't had any problems besides the blades not being perfectly sharpened, but I always reprofile and sharpen them to my liking
@@dereksteele2284 then clearly the rest of us are just big fat liars….
Thanks for this post and your earlier one comparing Case CV to Rough RIder SS stockmans. I was surprised to see the stockman test showing the two knives neck and neck and this one showing more of a difference. I really thought the CV would easily hold the better edge. I would love to see you do a Case CV vs Case Tru-Sharp comparison.
What happened, I believe, was that the Rough Rider came to me with a very rough edge. I had done so much sharpening on it that I had reduced the angle of the bevel making it very sharp. The c.v. blade is much much harder. It took no damage whereas the Rough Rider edge had rolled a lot. If I had left the edges closer to the original factory edge there would have been no contest
Hmmm. c.v. vs tru-sharp. I had not thought of that. Good thinking Batman! I have a few days off soon.
Screw getting to Mars.
*This* is the science we need.
Good on ya, fella
Thanks very much 🙂
For me on a budget I would get the rough rider, but if money wasn't a problem then I would get the case. The case is around $40-$45 now around here while the rough rider is $12-$15.
Hi William. I only have two Case knives. The stainless trapper is going well. My CV stockman was returned because it developed a back spring problem. The replacement now has a very weak back spring on the clip blade. The CV steel is hard and holds an edge well but I am very disappointed with Case. The RR's are a fraction of the price and they are still going strong
A very balanced and honest review, the Roughriders look excellent value for money. I've use a Case mini trapper SS in yellow Delrin for over ten years and it's a cracking knife for mooching about the countryside. I'm tempted by the Case large stockman in yellow Delrin but with CV blades. I read online that some Case folk believe the CV steel is for using and the SS steel is for collectors? Thanks again for sharing Vinnie. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Hi Garry. Don't know much about the collecting side, the cv case is a fine knife, but very prone to rust in its new shiny state. It will also rust inside the handle.. I have put a patina on the blade to see if it resists rust better. I would think you would still need to be careful about oiling. It makes a fine hunting knife. So does the Rough Rider. The large blade on my Case does not have the most impressive spring I ever saw. I would expect better for the cost. Maybe if you had a shop where you could try before you buy.
Hi Vinnie I've found the edge retention on my Case to be fine, usually just strop after returning home from mooching about. I'll see if our local gun shop has any Rough riders in stock to have a look. Grand to see pocket knives being put to the test. All the best from Scotland. Garry
I've never seen a Case XX with a poor spring. Case uses half stops, which are important in slip joint knives, so the spring doesn't have to be as strong, and it's set where the majority of uses requested it.
Hi James. I did not say it was poor. said it was not impressive. I have just taken it out to check. The sheepsfoot and spey blades on the knife have good resistance to closing, which is good for safety in my book. The clip point is about half as strong as the others, and gives me the impression of being a bit limp. My Rough Rider trapper is much stronger
m
James Ritchie I agree though I recently bought a Case Large Stockman in CV and it doesn't have half stops. Is this a new feature or do Stockman's not feature half stops ? Thanks for your advice.
Maybe take note to other people on youtube when they do cut tests. They sharpen both knives with the same grind and to the same sharpness. My question is have either been sharpened before? Plus, in any brand, some come with better edges, some with worse edges, which is exactly why others sharpen them first due to every company's inconsistent edges from the factory. I own many case knives, and some came so dull they wouldn't cut paper at all, so would you, in your opinion, say that knife had worse steel than rough ryder?
the Case looks to be the best of the two oh by the way Vinnie you where mentioned on one of my knife groups on facebook. thats how i found your channel. the guy said you did a more honest review on the mora knife ....I dont know how you feel about facebook but i sent you a link to one of the clubs. hope you find something you like the guy your looking for in Ireland is Jay E Lee he is the best to buy from. there are a lot of other sellers but they may be from Canada or the USA or somewhere in Europe
Rodger that Joe.
Great video review. Let's be realistic and honest though, the case and the rough rider basically performed extremely similar. Rough rider knives
are just cheaper versions of case knives.
Thank you. After using these knives quite a bit I say that Case steel is better. In my limited experience Case has quality control problems that should not exist when you consider what they charge
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I've known about case, but am just now getting into their products/company. But I can
already discern that, they sell their products way overpriced for the mediocre performance they provide,
and there's other companies out here who sell their products at a much better price, that perform just as well as case products do.
So why should a person pay the price of what case sells for, when what case sells performs like a
cheaper product?. Case will sell you a knife for $50.00-$75.00, but it'll be a knife that performs like a $20.00 knife. I just can't bring myself to purchase
from case, until they step their game up and take responsibility for actually providing real cost/price worthy quality.
@@hostilemgtow603 i found the case cv to be very good steel although it rusts easily in Irish conditions but I have had two knives with back spring problems
@@vinniesdayoff3968 I understand what you're saying, but the facts of the matter is that, both the case, and the RR performed similarly.
This fact instantaneously unjusitifies the prices that case charges it's customers. That was my point.
No, they're not
You can’t compare the two knives as the case costs four of five times that of the rough rider so they are aimed at two different markets.
That's true Randall. I think I said at the start of the video that it was not a live or die contest but an attempt to give some information at that time
A $40+ vs $15 knives obviously they both need a good stopping. The $15 knife needs to be stopped more often. But at the price point not to shabby.
Is this test out of the box, with the factory edge? If so you should have sharpened them equally, then tested them. As such, not sure what this shows other than the relative factory edges.
Both knives were sharpened by me and were equally sharp at the start.
Very nice video, great attitude about knives. Stay sharp!
Thank you very much Dan
Sent you a pm Dan
Are you set up for pm's Dan
vinniesdayoff
Yes, I’m out but see this on my phone, I want to take the time to read it and reply.
Thanks again, I’ll write you back proper soon
Dan
Very interesting how they still cut paper.
I think they had micro chips which acted like a serrated blade
I bought my first Case 🔪 out of a showcase at work in the sporting goods department..a yellow Delrin slimline Trapper 1969
I hear the older knives were much better than the current crop Bruce. Would you agree or disagree?
@@vinniesdayoff3968
Hard for me to say..as there years between me owning them & some one else fell in 💘 with them so I can't make the comparisons unfortunately..
The CV did tarnish while in storage
@@bruceswearingen7718 I find it rusts very easily in Irish conditions. It needs diligent care
@@vinniesdayoff3968
I had mine in Loosiana..so it rusted sitting on the table
@@bruceswearingen7718 I see the problem ☺
Do you keep your Trapper in a sheath on your belt to prevent getting holes in your pocket and losing it? Thanks for posting!
The only folder I carry in a sheath is the Buck 110 because it is so heavy Mary. I don't have any problems with holes in my pockets. Even if I did have a hole in my pocket I normally wear wellies ( every farmer in Ireland can't be wrong) and the knife would just end up in there :-)
I carry my trapper in my pocket
Not surprised the case one cost at least 5 times what the rough Ryder cost indeed it should preform a little bit better
Nice knives. Are they legal to carry? That is a very good price for the Case. Only reason that I don't own a Case is the price this side of the pond.
Hi Lars, we have no legal size here, if we are not involved in an activity where we can justify having a knife, we cannot carry any knife. We take action against criminals by punishing law abiding citizens. The wholesale stabbings and murders continue
same as here then..sad
I agree Lars. The world is becoming more and more retarded
The RR did better than I expected.
Vinnie it is my understanding that factory edges often demonstrate the worst of the edge holding that a knife has to offer due to overheating of the steel during the factory sharpening process. The information follows that as the user grinds away the old over-heated steel, with a more mild sharpening technique, they will slowly unveil steel that hasnt been damaged by the high heat of the grinders used to sharpen the knives in factory, thus improving the edge holding over time. My question to you is, have you perhaps experienced this or do you have any thoughts on the subject? I can't say I can definitively confirm or deny the above through personal use. Thanks in advance & thanks for another great video.
Well, I have not done any kind of scientific analysis which you would have to do to be able to say for sure, but I never had much time for any factory edge. Even if they are sharp they don't seem to be as good as, like you say, when the knife has been used and sharpened a few times. Just my feeling I suppose. Thank you for watching. What kind of hound do you have?
I rescued a lab mix pup some years back, she turned 6 in April this year. Black in color, about 40 lbs, smart as a whip, and my dearest friend. Lucky to have her in my life and it warms my heart to see you and Dyson carrying on. I've watched your whole collection of videos now and its been obvious from the first one how much that little guy admires you and loves his life & certainly your kindness returned. ---- & Thank you for that response regarding the factory edges, it mirrors what i've heard from several of the other knife lovers I've met and chatted with in my life. Many would find joy in sharpening their new blade straight away, some even taking weeks to finally get "their edge" on the knife and proudly claim it to be sharp.
Yep. Everyone can be giving out to you but your dog is always happy to see you. It would be an empty old life for me without my hound
Just curious, any problems for your wife bringing the Case knife back to Ireland? Did she fly?
Bigbobg yes she flew. brought it in her checked baggage. No hassle. thanks
Creo que te faltó hacer una prueba de corte de papel antes que de soga para ver cuál era el filo inicial. Me quedo con la rough rider por el doble de precio la CASE apenas es un poco superior. Muy buen video. Gracias
Tienes razón Enrique. Debería haber demostrado lo afilados que eran. Ambos fueron muy agudos al principio. Solo tengo dos cuchillos Rough Rider. Este se vuelve contundente rápidamente, el otro cuchillo es mejor. Son de buen valor y harán un trabajo por usted. También resisten el óxido muy bien. Espero haber traducido esto correctamente. Muchas gracias por mirar
@@vinniesdayoff3968 Si excelente su traducción. Gracias por tomarse el tiempo. El acero que más me gusta de CASE el cromo vanadio. Es casi insuperable en navajas tradicionales, me gustaría en un futuro usted haga esa prueba aver si realmente es mejor que el true Sharp. Saludos
@@enriqueaguilera9338 En mi opinión es mejor Enrique. Sin embargo, mi navaja Case desarrolló problemas de resorte trasero, así que lo devolví. El cuchillo de reemplazo que recibí ahora ha desarrollado un resorte trasero muy débil. Creo que Case debe tener problemas de control de calidad. Estoy muy decepcionado porque para mí es un cuchillo relativamente caro. Si no fuera por estos problemas y el hecho de que desarrollará óxido en condiciones irlandesas a menos que tenga mucho cuidado con la lubricación, no pediría más de un cuchillo. Los cuchillos de la Case han dejado un mal sabor en mi boca desafortunadamente
@@vinniesdayoff3968 woww comparto tu misma desilución por navajas case tengo una Buster jr ss y sus bordes son malisimos. Te comparto mi WhatsApp para intercambiar fotos y videos de mis navajas. +52 866 234 1631. Saludos
@@enriqueaguilera9338
No tengo Whatsapp. ¿Qué tal mi correo electrónico vinniesdayoff@gmail.com?
Is this on the factory edge? I'd like to see both of these tested with a polished 20 degree edge. Factory edges tend to come a bit inconsistent.
It's not the factory edge. That Rough Rider proved to dull quickly with moderate work. I'm going to take more steel from the edge and see if it improves.
@@vinniesdayoff3968 true sharp is likely heat treated better to a higher rockwell. The reason I asked is because I've gotten dozens of case knives with very rough edges out of the box definitely not cutting paper smoothly. I was curious about your experience.
@@-trmxzer0-235 I only have a couple. The blades were nicely sharp. My stockman has developed a not very strong back spring on the clip blade. Not so weak as to say it was defective but less than impressive. Have you noticed that happening in your knives?
The back springs do seem to break in a bit after use. I've noticed some on mine but I have only a few regular carrys. But nothing serious enough to cause issues. Might have to check around see if others have experienced a similar decrease in back strength?
I really enjoy your videos Vinnie, good stuff. I've found the same, I think the Case Tru Sharp holds an edge better but I also find that it holds a burr more stubbornly than the Rough Rider steel.
Thank you very much Logan, I think you have hit the nail on the head there. I find it harder to get rid of a burr on the Case knives too. Thank you for watching.
Nice video, you got yourself another subscriber!
How would you compare sharpening these two knives?
Looks like the RR is perhaps just a little softer than the Case, does that make it a little easier to sharpen?
Hello James and thank you very much I really appreciate it. You are bang on, the RR is indeed easier to sharpen, a good deal easier.
My rough ryder knives usually come somewhat dull even though the blade says it's sharp. 2-3 minutes on lansky ceramics rods and it's very sharp. Also, you can't tell the blades have been sharpened since the rods mainly remove any burr that exists.
Here are n the USA. I paid $8.00 for my rough rider and I paid $45.00 for my CASE. Is the difference worth the price to you?
I think the case cv steel is excellent Christian and normally I would say go for the Case. The case stainless is better than RR but for normal use most people wouldn't notice much difference. My first case cv knife had to be returned because of a serious back spring problem. The replacement has a weak back spring on the clip point blade. In my limited experience case leaves a bad taste in the mouth. As far as I can tell they have quality control problems. The RR knives are OK as beaters but if you want a good hard steel and something you can take satisfaction from owning I would buy something else.
Case comes with a better edge. Rough Rider usually does but sometimes not finished off as well and needs a bit of a hone/stropping to finish off the toothy edge. Once this is done it will hang with the case no problem. I have several RR's and am amazed at the value... pretty good.
Vinnie have you tried varying the edge angle on that Rough Ryder to see how the edge retention is affected. I may not get the chance. I have cancer. Found out last week.
I am so sorry to hear that. There are very few families that are not affected by cancer. Treatment has come a long way though so don't lose hope. I know quite a few people who have made good recoveries. I only have a few RR knives. The first one I got had a very rough burr on the edge that I found hard to get rid of for some reason. I did quite a lot of sharpening and have given it a thin profile and it (it's the stockman) is noticeably better in every way than the trapper which is closer to the factory sharpened bevels. I'll say a prayer for you my friend.
i have to say that looks like an awful pain in the hole fair play tya its good to watch .
You should get a hold of some great eastern cutlery slip joints. They cost a pretty penny and they are only made in short batches but they are superior quality to any slip joint I know of
I have two and I agree with you. I think they are what I had in mind when I set out to find a "good" knife
also good videos man keep up the good work hope you see this
I saw it all right. thanks very much. In my experience the Rough Riders are perfectly good knives. Are you in the US? If you are they are very cheap there
In a test like this edge geometry is very important. Plus I don't think it is fair to cut with the factory edge. We know how that can be hit or miss with any brand of knife.
I agree with you 100% about edge geometry. Thinness of the blade and it's shape and edge angle can make a cheap steel outperform a fancy super steel. Both of these knives had been sharpened on a stone and stropped so it wasn't really a factory edge although perhaps close to the factory edge. I did a similar test with another RR knife and it performed much better than this one. Having used the trapper for quite a while now I find it does a moderate amount of work and then goes completely blunt. I have been thinking of taking it to a stone and removing steel and maybe thinning the edge a little to see if that helps. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Very good review I subscribe👍
Awesome, thank you!
Say Heah M8, Cheers, Great Revue, Thanx You. It goes to prove you get what you pay for. Again, Thanx You. and Cheers Dilly Dilky.,,.p
Paul'ie 4X thanks Paul'ie. Glad you liked it.
Damn, only 35$ 6 years ago. 65 now... I hate this world.
I hear you brother!
Are ya familiar with D'unbeleiveables "The Blishters" haha
After "old timer" went to China. I switched to "Case". To be honest. I haven't been impressed. Within a year of ownership. The blade started rusting, and the Case badge fell off. I contacted Case. They said they would mail me a new shield. That was 4 months ago.
Hi Stanley, my Case trapper is a good knife however, I had backspring issues with my CV stockman and I had to return it. The replacement now has a pretty weak backspring too. My experience is a bit different from the marketing hype of old time quality. A pity really.
I paid $14 for my RR 🤷🏻♂️I just sharpen it.
I suppose you have a point 🤔🤔
👍👍👍
Both of those knives are still sharp enough that you should have no trouble cutting that rope. You seem out of breath, which probably means you were trying to cut the rope, rather than letting the knives do the work. You should be able to do that all day without getting tired.
Anyway, Rough Rider knives use 440a steel, which isn't all that bad. It's more than good enough for every use these knives are meant to do. Case XX, though, uses a proprietary 440c steel, which is one of the best steels out there. I like it better than any of the so-called "super" steels on a working knife. It holds and edge far longer than 440a, but remains easy to sharpen.
But cutting tests like this are pretty meaningless. They aren't scientific, they have nothing to do with how well the knives perform the tasks they were designed to do, and they don't take into account the fact that you should never use a knife until it gets dull. Such tests don't even take into accunt the grind and bevel angle on each knife.
As for high carbon versus stainless, Case uses 1095 CV, which is considerably more corrosion resistant than ordinary 1095, but it isn't difficult to keep any 1095 from rushing. It takes very little care, but many people prefer the patina such steel develops, if you let it.
High carbon steel is definitely better for wilderness use because it sharpens easily, even on a river rock, and you can also use it to strike a spark from flint, something you can't do with any stainless steel. Either of these things could save your life in a survival situation.
Anyway, while you can often tell if a knife is pure junk quickly, the only way you can judge quality knives accurately against another knife is to use both knives for several months, and see how each holds up to multiple uses of tasks the knives are designed to do.
Hmmm. A lot of points there. Try cutting three quarter inch rope multiple times and see if you can do it all day. Although the R.R. still cut paper(how I don't know) it felt very blunt cutting the rope. My experience with the Case c.v. is that I put it away after some light cutting(without oiling it) and next day had red rust formed. I got it off with metal polish and decided it needed a patina. How much protection this will give the Case I have yet to find out. While I agree fully That there are many variables, and the test may not be scientific, it is much better than sitting at a coffee table and talking about it which is what most people do on TH-cam. I am doing my best to help people who want to buy knives to use. I think there is nothing wrong with Rough Riders at all. I said that in the video.
I agree that using a knife for some months is the best way to test it, but how do you show that in a TH-cam video? I have struggled for some time to come up with just such a test, but it is not as easy to show this in a video as one might think.
Well said Pinche!
Sadly rough ryders have better fit and finish, quality control.
From my limited experience Case do not live up to their own hype. You would expect more from what is for me at least (on this side of the pond) a reasonably pricey knife
Case should be better four to five times the price😏 proves nothing.
Great vid has made me consider looking at rough rider knives. By any chance have you looked at Killkennyknifeandtool.com they have a good range of knives and other useful items, dont know about shipping or customer service yet though
I was looking at them. Interesting kind of place. I googled one of their Rough Rider knives (cost 13.95) and delivery in Ireland is 5.95 euro. Not too bad. How are you keeping Oglaigh?, any more mink?
vinniesdayoff Yeah its a very good site just havent had the chance of ordering. Im good thanks for asking. Unfortunatley ive had no luck since i caught the one that killed my hens dont really know whats wrong ive been using fresh mackrel and have been digging the trap into the bank. I think the problem is we moved the remaining hens into a portable run that was near a river and maybye the sound and smell was drawing them in.
Maybe you just got a loner
vinniesdayoff Haha maybye
Rough riders are low quality Chinese steel. Their qc is awful
Hi Douglas. I have come to the conclusion that they are a beater knife and they don't inspire admiration from me. I was trying out various knives I saw on TH-cam to learn for myself what the truth was. I have to say from my very limited experience that Case have serious QC issues as well that have no right to be in a knife that costs as much as they charge. Thanks very much for your comment.
I'll have to take your word for it because your audio sucks.
Okay Robert. I admit it is not as good as in your many videos. Oh wait a minute, you don't have any. Why are people who do not create anything the most critical?