I've spent 50 years in woodworking. Learned using only hand tools. For 20 years I sharpened on natural or man-made oil stones. Then I was introduced to waterstones and stuck with them for 15 years. Got tired of the mess and bought 4 grits of diamond stones. About three years ago I stumbled on the Trend 300/1000 diamond stone and now it's all I use along with a leather strop glued to a piece of birch plywood that I charge with Flexcuts gold compound. Until I can across this video I t thought I was the only one using this simple system. Thanks for the video, it affirms what I discovered on my own three years ago.
@@toomuchsugar3960 I think the usefulness of a diamond stone is that it cuts away the blade much faster than grinding the metal down slowly. If you're not at the stage where your smoothening or polishing the metal, it'll simply speed things up
I took a carving class that I was quite pleased with. I came home with something to hang on the wall. The tools were his and he did the sharpening. We always had sharp tools. Sharpening wasn't part of our class. Now I have my own tools and don't know ANYTHING about sharpening. I am pleased to have stumbled across this channel in my ignorant search. I am starving for any additional help and or information. Thank you. S.
I love the intelligence and in-depth presentations - Not just this one on stropping, but virtually all of the videos - generally done very professionally and with an air of humor.
I find your videos to be a fine mix of no nonsense , clear , concise complete information ZERO!! ego and just the right amount of comedy to keeps things lite . They keep moving but never leave out any information. I do have one suggestion however.. And that would be that YOU have yourself a cold one my friend ! I think it quite obvious you have earned it !!! Thank you for the quality content you provide !!
Another great reference video for my playlist. The micron/grit correspondence it's a delicious information. Let me do a recap just for convenience: 25 to 35 microns ---> 800 grit stone 8 to 15 microns ---> 2000 grit stone 4 to 8 microns ---> 4000 grit stone 2 to 4 microns ---> 8000 grit stone 1 micron or less ---> 10000 grit stone or more Thanks for sharing!
Pleasantly surprised with your knowledge. I clicked on this video with skepticism. I have met very few people that understand what stropping is actually about or can comprehend after being told. You lay it out very well and nicely detailed.
Grady Bledsoe ......thanks Grady, we all feel a lot better now knowing you took this chance of clicking with disdain and mild contempt on this video and came out surprised and satisfied. We all rest easy now thanks to you.
I am a chef, and I went from sharpening and honing my Japanese knives on water stones to a 320/1000 diamond plate and a leather strop some time ago. It works well but I've felt like I was flying a little blind. I found the information in this video to be extremely useful. Thanks!
Rex Kruger ('nother youtube woodworker, mostly about hand tools) has a video explaining that some japanese knives / tools are designed specifically to be used on water stones. It's been four years but I still thought I'd leave this comment if you're interested.
I never realized there was so much techniques in honing, our world is definitely not a chance. Thanks for your dedicated service and commitment to the highest standards in your work. You are a pro. Blessings.
James, For year’s I’ve been a huge stropping advocate among my woodworking, bookbinding & leather-working friends, but I’ve always been defeated by the discussion about ‘surely leather rounds the edge’. I knew from old-timers’ & my own experience it worked best, but couldn’t explain it. You have finally put it into words perfectly. THANK YOU.
This is the best explanation of what a leather strop actually is, and what it is capable of doing for your sharpening results! I’ve seen dozens of other TH-cam videos trying explaining the basics on how to sharpen. I seemed to never get the same sharp edge results that these other channels claimed by using the same sharpening techniques. Until I accidentally found this video on TH-cam, and seen how using a leather strop could possibly change my sharpening results drastically!! I realized that this was the step I was missing in sharpening my own woodworking tools to obtain that so called “scary sharp edge”! My very first day of receiving my leather strop and green compound I was able to shave the hair on my arm with ease!! My only regret is that I wish I would’ve found this video sooner instead of waisting all that time and money trying all these different wet stones, diamond stones, and even a sharpening jigs. I am just very grateful for Stumpy Nubs and finding this TH-cam video!! And no he didn’t pay me to say that I am just a huge fan and a very thankful DIY Woodworker. So thanks again Stumpy Numbs for taking the time to share your expertise, and for making this excellent video!!
yeah. but is wrong. leather strop has been used for centuries to maintain a sharp edge. it IS NOT a sharpening device. it is a hone. impregnating your stop with grease and diamonds just turns into sandpaper. stumpy nubs knows a litle less than he claims.
When James / Stumpy covers a topic, it really gets covered. This one video has more info per vid frame than any other ones I have seen! Thanks again for another 'keeper' video that's one to go back to every time a question on honing pops into mind! And I really enjoy James's touches like how stropping a razor works and was done, love when he refreshes my memories of the -'old days'. And his never bat an eye spots of humor.
I took your advice in regards the Trend diamond stone. EGAD!! That thing is wonderful. Cuts quickly, finely and does an excellent job. I bought my strop from the same outfit and use the enclosed green and white paste - but only on the rough side of the strop. You provide the best, most incisive and most worthwhile advice on the internet. THANK YOU.
I've been watching your `Stumpy Nubs` videos for about 2 years now. I live in Japan and have no workshop other than my garden. Recently I made my own Saw Bench like the one you made about 5 years ago. I love the bench that I made it is so useful. Thanks for the quality content and inspiration. PS: Go Wings!
I have been sharpening, began with scissors then knives, as a part time job for years and find myself now adding more and more different items to my repitoire. I now plan to begin adding straight razor sharpening
I have found good leather scraps from a national hobby store - usually comes in a bag for about $10 and there is plenty enough to make a stripping block. I’ve glued a piece on each side of a planed hardwood block, one side smooth & the other rough. Works perfectly for stropping chisels, carving knives and pocket knives. Thanks for sharing!
What a great and informative video. One trick: You're showing your grandfathers razor stropping with a swift stroke on the leather. At the end of the stroke you're giving the razor a turn on the edge. Doing this will blunt your edge, because you're rounding it. The much better (not to say: correct) way is to make a stroke with even (and light) force. Then stop at the end position without a quick and fancy change of direction. Now roll the razor over the back of the blade! And on you go. This isn't a zack-zack-zack highspeed strop like you see in the barber shops in the old western movies. Stropping is a highly accurate finishing move for the precious edge of your razor. Don't ruin your hole sharpening effort by a sloppy stropping! Best greetings from Hamburg, Germany!
I was going to say the same thing Jurgen, but thought I would read the comments first to see if anyone caught what you did. You are absolutely correct. The blade should be rolled on the spine to go the other direction on the strop. What you did not mention was the reason why about the dulling of the edge. It happens when those using the strop go too fast and instead of lifting the edge up and off the strop they just flip the edge sometimes allowing edge to contact the strop in the turning which defeats why you are using a strop in the first place. Good catch Jurgen.
David Warren , both of you are very correct! I checked to make sure someone else had covered this as well. If you don’t roll spine-down not only do you run the risk ruining your hone and having to start over, but more tragically, you may Knick your strop and render it unusable. I sure would hate to see that happen to any good strop, much less a family heirloom!
This gentleman is an excellent educator. I truly enjoyed this video and learned a great deal. Articulate, factual, helpful and to the point. Thank you!
I use 400 diamond --> 1000 diamond --> rough strop glued (well, DST'd) to wood & loaded with Veritas green compound. After a month or two of use the strop is no longer very rough & the edge improves, but for a quick strop & back to work it's pretty good from day one. BTW, toothpaste is also a very fine abrasive...
Great information and beautifully presented. I also use a 1000 grit diamond stone and strop. I only use the rough side of the leather with no compound and it gets me an edge sharp enough to shave my arm hair or dig into the back of nail in seconds. It could be sharper I know but it's sharp enough for my work building wooden boats with daily hard use and a maintained edge can keep me from using the stone for a week. I learned a lot, much appreciated Stumpy Nubs!
You have a way of getting down to the fine points (pun not intended) that I like to understand. First time I have heard about bending and replacing the steel edge. Well done, sir.
Great timing! I just purchased a scrap of cowhide from Tandy to make strops for myself and a couple of friends. I had planned on mounting leather to both sides of a paddle shaped piece of wood and wasn't sure which side of the leather to face outward. Problem solved! One side smooth, one side rough, charging the rough sided piece with polishing compound. As always, great information.
8:48 is a hugely, tremendously valuable little piece of info for me - literally just cleared up about 15 years of confusion. They’re both methods of delivering a very fine abrasive compound to the metal - one being a compressed stone of fine abrasive, and the other being a clay-like chunk of abrasive. Fine grit is fine grit; you just figure out what works for you and what you like better. I’m just getting into woodworking and this is why I keep coming back to the Stumpster - he just goes in raw and gets right into the guts of this shit. I love it.
A major factor is choosing the correct bevel geometry according to your needs, and more importantly, what your tool or blade is capable of supporting. Blade and bevel geometry is often ignored as people focus more on grit finish. There's a reason kitchen knives are all extremely thin behind the edge (and spine) and hatchets are extremely thick behind the edge (and spine). High hardness yet strong (non-brittle) steels such as CPM 4V or K390 are capable of supporting extremely thin edges and bevel geometry without deforming. Another big issue is edge fatigue. When he stated that a razor's edge can be deformed and become wavy from human hair, that could be because the steel is not heat treated optimally, but the more likely scenario is that the edge is fatigued. Imagine a paper clip. When you bend it back and forth repeatedly in the same spot, that spot has become weakened or "fatigued". You can straighten the paper clip back out to its original shape, but that spot is never the same. This happens to a lesser extent on the apex of a blade. Bare leather strops and steels (non- abrasive sharpening rods) realign the apex of the blade FAR more than they remove material. What results is fatgued steel at the apex from being bent back and forth. This edge may be sharp but it will not retain that sharpness for very long as it is nowhere near as strong as it once was. It's important to actually hit the stones ans remove this fatigued steel from time to time (along with choosing the appropriate sharpening angle (bevel geometry) so that you will have a strong edge that will last much longer.
Man... what can I say? Your tips are excellent! You saved me a lot of money, since, here in Brazil, in order to get good wet stones, diamond stones, or good sharpening jigs, we have to throw a ton of money to import those items. Now, thanks to you, I use just two stones and a strop with green compound to get my blades (knifes, planes, chisels, whatever) sharp enough to get the job done. And for just a few bucks. But the best part, is that I don't have to spend hours doing it. Regular maintenance is all that it takes to keep my blades sharp; Thank you ,AGAIN! Salute from Brazil.
After years of watching wood TH-cam videos, I must say your channel regarding the knowledge about any product, is always the best, and the most useful. Thank you for all you share with us. An excellent video.
I'm 36 and have been sharpening since I was 12. Always knew it worked but didn't know how. Thanks I will be subscribed now. I look forward to learning.
Great no nonsense video. This is how I keep things sharp now, one stone one piece of leather one green mystery stick. So many youtube vidoes on sharpening this is the best one I've seen. Thanks for sharing.
My dad taught me to strop on paper. The shiny magazine covers are best. He said they used Clay in the paper to help it go shiny and keep the ink crisp when printing fancy pictures. I also inherited a belt from him. It is much too big for me and rather than cut It i use the loose bit to strop when if finished using a diamond stone.......if there is no shiny magazine handy. Never thought I’d share this info with anyone, let alone the interweb.
Yep, I believe it's called "kaolin" clay and I bet it's probably very similar to the natural silicates you'd find in leather that work as a fine abrasive
Along with woodworking, I also do leather work and stropping has allowed me to keep the same blade in my carpet knife for about 6 months. I have a scrap of 9oz veg tan glued to a scrap of white oak, flesh side up. I use "jeweler's rouge" I bought from Weaver Leather and strop every time I pick up that knife. It just now occurred to me, thanks to your video, that I need to be doing the same with my woodworking tools. Another great video!
Got three books on sharping. I have been sharping edged tool for 40 years & you video is the simplest I have seen & the easiest, low cost to use. thank you
As someone who is trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my wood working tools this video has probably saved me a fair bit of money and wasted time, many thanks. BTW I have finally subscribed.
I appreciate the information that you provide. Your delivery and personality are refreshing. To include, you covered one stroop question. To use the rough and smooth sides of the leather. THANK YOU! (Go Red Wings)
Really great video. Thank you! I wondered why my green stick never worked as well as my white one. I was under the impression the green was actually coarser than the white. Now I know that the green should be used after the white, and that was the whole problem!
I have read countless articles in forums on stropping and one thing I notice is people get so stroppy when debating lol. I would love to see some scientific methodology on the subject as there are so many variables. Great informative video as usual young man.
Outstanding! From start to finish, your videos are filled with useful, practical information. Also, I often benefit from your links to good tools. Well done sir.
Thank you so much very helpful thank you I have no words I was about to spend $178 on a 16,000 grit Glass block for the final chartering of my chisel and hand plane blades and I tried the green con pound and it works really well but your video clarify many of the staff that I was thinking already again thank you so much my friend
Illinois Razor Strop Co. Chicago. I've been using one for many years, it works very well. Thanks for going to the trouble of making this video. According to my years of experience it's right on the money and very informative.
Gotta be one of the clearest and most straightforward vids for understanding the actual edge 'mechanics', and the appropriate tools, for sharpening and final honing... thx much!
It has been a fairly long journey trying to understand how to sharpen chisels. i finally realized recently that it can take ALOT of time doing the basic grinding of the surface using just the 1000 grit stone (i have a diamond stone). And it appears when chisels are nicked and badly chipped it would take much less time doing the basic grinding on a wheel as you suggested. But getting the tool actually sharp has been elusive. So this may very well be the missing link i need to get to that final degree of sharpness. Thank you so much for a very infomative video.
I'm extremely happy that I came across your video. First...... you are extremely informative, concise and your video(s) are very well done. Second..... I followed your suggestions, directions and I can't believe how amazing my knife edges came out..! I have been a life-long knife collector and I have some knives that are extremely collectable and expensive. I like to use my knives, but I didn't want to lose that "Perfect" sharpness that was done by factories and/or knife makers. Now I have the confidence to sharpen these knives, by following your gracious tutoring. Also, some of the edges that I've done, by using these methods, I believe are a step-up from the edges that these knives came with. I give you credit for this, due to the knowledge, practices and suggestions, that you kindly provide to you viewers. Much appreciated, sir. Thank you and please keep your videos coming.
I was guilty of strop misinformation being new to it and was applying what I thought was "appropriate firm pressure" and ruining my edges. Now I use 3 strop grits with light pressure and they come out super sharp.
Thank you! At last I found really unbiassed, clear advice on this subject. I like that you don't take an age to explain things but cover everything well. It's a fine balance. You've given be the confidence to dig out my old tools and give them a new lease of life.
Hi Stumpy I have been watching your videos for years. This was a very in lighting one. I do think a lot of people are to obsessed with sharpening. Spending more time sharpening then working.. Thanks John
For years I was on a fool's errand--trying to find the "perfect" sharpening system. I have spent thousands of dollars over the years on every kind of stone and jig imaginable--diamond, ceramic, waterstones, Arkansas stones, jigs, and of course, "scary sharp" with sandpaper. What I learned was that they all work well. Just pick one. I did the same with strops too--tried half a dozen different compounds, and even rubbing a metal polish (Flitz) into the leather. My favorite (and the only one I use today) is a green chromium oxide compound on the grain side of leather (the smooth side) which is glued to a piece of Baltic Birch plywood scrap that was the right size. Today I still flip around between diamond and waterstones for sharpening, but I always finish with stropping with green compound. If you buy an inexpensive USB microscope you can see for yourself what is happening to the edge with each process. It's useful for a quick check to see if you're ready to move up a grit when sharpening--no more guesswork.
I am far from a woodworker. But, I am a knife enthusiast, and a wet shaver, using a nice Thiers Issard straight razor. The razor is what brought me to this video. Thank you, very much, for being so informative. I finally really understand why I need a strip, and how to use it. You probably have saved me countless nicks and cuts in the future.
this is incredibly comprehensive i have been serious hobby sharpening for over a decade and this is the best explanation of stropping i have seen. including certain honing and sharpening channels. great job! thank you.
Being a woodcarver, my fellow woodcarvers and I have used leather for years. I have been experimenting and tried and a strip of old Navy uniform belt from World War 2 really holds the compound and wears like iron. I just glued it to a paint stick and keep with my carving tools. The rounded edge of the belt also works well for stropping the concave edge of my small gouges. Thank you for making all these videos. I find it interesting how we as woodworkers seem to end up doing things the old way. We also use cereal box cardboard to sharpen small micro carving tools.
Fine cardboard like that can be improved by using brown paper bag sprayglued to a flattened piece of soft pine. That gets you well into polishing sheets, typically 8000-12000 grit.
The BEST explanation of stropping I've seen yet. Thank you! I've been through all of the sharpening systems imaginable (diamond, water, scary, etc.) and lately find myself simplifying my process. For hundreds of years the standard woodworking sharpening system in America consisted of a soft Arkansas stone and a strop. I've been using a similar system, sometimes experimenting with an India stone rather than an Arkansas, and easily (and as you said, cheaply) achieve hair-shaving, softwood-end-grain-cutting sharpness on knives and tools. If somebody asks me for a suggested sharpening system my answer now is "anything plus a strop." Pressed for specifics, I suggest the largest India stone you can afford and a leather strop with green compound.
etneedham That's what I use. An india stone and a strop. I tell people about it and they generally dismiss that as it is to easy and inexpensive. If you don't have $400 in waterstones and crap to maintain them, it just couldn't work.
Great video. As soon as the edge starts to dull, a few quick strokes on the strop brings it right back. Like you, I find that 1000 grit diamond plate then strop is pretty much all I need. I use Autosol metal polish, It does a great job, and a tube lasts forever,
Thank you Mr. Hamilton, this was very informative as I am about to begin sharpening my (Deceased Father-in-laws) old chisels & a couple of planning blades. This information will help a lot!
As always, no fuss and straight to the point. I really likebyour videos as they are a good source of information. I'm very new to woodworking and trying my best to make it my new hobby. Thank you again and keep upthe good work. JL
Watched a lot of videos and read many articles on sharpening techniques and equipment but this is by far the best I've come across that explains the purpose and use of stopping and stropping compounds. Its clear, concise and progress in order that avoids confusion. With and excellent summary to finish off the video. Two thumbs up!
Thanks so much for this! I'd been trying to improvise my way through the process and was doing okay, but it's so nice to hear it all clearly laid out and explained. Thanks!
Sorry, I wasn't done - I am also a leather-worker and appreciate your comments on stropping. Your videos are very thorough and I find them quite helpful.
TY for that easy-to-understand basics of sharpening woodcarving tools. It was simple to understand and it's one of the few "How-to's" I have seen on what each sharpening stone color means in the way of grit. Only thing I did not hear was the approximate grit difference between the gold and green compounds, whereas you did explain the approximate grit of all the other compound colors. Nonetheless, I have definitely saved this video explaining the overall process.
I always use a leather Strop, but didn't really know what the green stick was for. I originally thought it was a polish. Thank you for the quick lesson.
Stumpy, great job of explaining all this, ( as usual .). Awhile back I got some CBN stropping compound from Amazon. I got 14 micron and 0.5 micron for 1.4 oz each for $13.30 each. CBN is more aggressive for its grit size than Diamond and lasts longer, the crystals aren’t as brittle as diamonds. It comes in 0.25, 0.5, 1.0 3.0,5, 20, and 60 grits. Seems to me like a win-win deal to me. Thank you for being there for us novice woodworkers. I was just reflecting on how much knowledge and information a novice can accumulate in 6 month’s watching Utube videos compared to a traditional in shop apprentice in the early 1900’s. And someone had to pay for that education without pay. A lot of the work was gofer stuff, not good learning work. Some say those were the good old days ???
Dude! I just tried this out on my axe. It went from nice and sharp to scarysharp in about two minutes (including the time to apply the compound). I will use this method for the rest of my life. In case anybody is curious, I used a bar of white rouge and the back of an old leather belt.
I have good luck with mothers aluminum and mag polish. I started using it, because I already had it, but it works for me so I keep using it. I haven't compared it to anything though so I might be missing something better who knows. When I'm done sharpening my blades will shave hair nicely.
I watch a ton of woodworking videos and very rarely to I come across one where I either I know at little about what is being discussed and while I knew leather was good for honing I didn’t know the details I really appreciate this video and it has helped a ton thanks
You always gives me something new or think about and having spent my life working with metal and now at 83 getting into word working I have another set of skills to learn thank for the videos you put out.
I've spent 50 years in woodworking. Learned using only hand tools. For 20 years I sharpened on natural or man-made oil stones. Then I was introduced to waterstones and stuck with them for 15 years. Got tired of the mess and bought 4 grits of diamond stones. About three years ago I stumbled on the Trend 300/1000 diamond stone and now it's all I use along with a leather strop glued to a piece of birch plywood that I charge with Flexcuts gold compound. Until I can across this video I t thought I was the only one using this simple system. Thanks for the video, it affirms what I discovered on my own three years ago.
Diamond stones create a rough edge.
To get a smooth edge, you'd need a natural stone.
@@morehnthat's an interesting theory. I would like to see the results of both under a microscope.
@@toomuchsugar3960 I think the usefulness of a diamond stone is that it cuts away the blade much faster than grinding the metal down slowly. If you're not at the stage where your smoothening or polishing the metal, it'll simply speed things up
I'm a 75 yo woodworker. Your tutorials are great, you are an excellent instructor. Thank you for your effort.
This is absolutely one of the best if not the best wood working channels on TH-cam.
I took a carving class that I was quite pleased with. I came home with something to hang on the wall.
The tools were his and he did the sharpening. We always had sharp tools.
Sharpening wasn't part of our class.
Now I have my own tools and don't know ANYTHING about sharpening.
I am pleased to have stumbled across this channel in my ignorant search. I am starving for any additional help and or information.
Thank you.
S.
Appreciate the grit size of compounds which is almost never discussed on most sharpening videos. An excellent tutorial. Thank you, Sir.
exactly. i've had a devil of a time getting clear information
That was a great presentation very informative
Diffrent brands of paste comes with diffrent color and grit chart, but just go for white then green to be safe
in my experience the only compound you need is the fine green. it's perfectly acceptable for my kitchen knifes at least.
I love the intelligence and in-depth presentations - Not just this one on stropping, but virtually all of the videos - generally done very professionally and with an air of humor.
I find your videos to be a fine mix of no nonsense , clear , concise complete information ZERO!! ego and just the right amount of comedy to keeps things lite . They keep moving but never leave out any information.
I do have one suggestion however.. And that would be that YOU have yourself a cold one my friend ! I think it quite obvious you have earned it !!! Thank you for the quality content you provide !!
Another great reference video for my playlist. The micron/grit correspondence it's a delicious information. Let me do a recap just for convenience:
25 to 35 microns ---> 800 grit stone
8 to 15 microns ---> 2000 grit stone
4 to 8 microns ---> 4000 grit stone
2 to 4 microns ---> 8000 grit stone
1 micron or less ---> 10000 grit stone or more
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for writing it down!!!
Pleasantly surprised with your knowledge. I clicked on this video with skepticism. I have met very few people that understand what stropping is actually about or can comprehend after being told. You lay it out very well and nicely detailed.
Stumpy is legit.
@@silvermediastudio Usually.
Grady Bledsoe ......thanks Grady, we all feel a lot better now knowing you took this chance of clicking with disdain and mild contempt on this video and came out surprised and satisfied. We all rest easy now thanks to you.
@ Robert Langley. LOL that was good.
What are you some sort of stropping elitist?
I am a chef, and I went from sharpening and honing my Japanese knives on water stones to a 320/1000 diamond plate and a leather strop some time ago. It works well but I've felt like I was flying a little blind. I found the information in this video to be extremely useful. Thanks!
Rex Kruger ('nother youtube woodworker, mostly about hand tools) has a video explaining that some japanese knives / tools are designed specifically to be used on water stones. It's been four years but I still thought I'd leave this comment if you're interested.
I never realized there was so much techniques in honing, our world is definitely not a chance. Thanks for your dedicated service and commitment to the highest standards in your work. You are a pro. Blessings.
Ive got a strop just like yours. It was my wife's dad's. Its a cherished part of my shop. Now i know how yo use it. Thanks
James, For year’s I’ve been a huge stropping advocate among my woodworking, bookbinding & leather-working friends, but I’ve always been defeated by the discussion about ‘surely leather rounds the edge’. I knew from old-timers’ & my own experience it worked best, but couldn’t explain it. You have finally put it into words perfectly. THANK YOU.
This is the best explanation of what a leather strop actually is, and what it is capable of doing for your sharpening results! I’ve seen dozens of other TH-cam videos trying explaining the basics on how to sharpen. I seemed to never get the same sharp edge results that these other channels claimed by using the same sharpening techniques. Until I accidentally found this video on TH-cam, and seen how using a leather strop could possibly change my sharpening results drastically!! I realized that this was the step I was missing in sharpening my own woodworking tools to obtain that so called “scary sharp edge”! My very first day of receiving my leather strop and green compound I was able to shave the hair on my arm with ease!! My only regret is that I wish I would’ve found this video sooner instead of waisting all that time and money trying all these different wet stones, diamond stones, and even a sharpening jigs. I am just very grateful for Stumpy Nubs and finding this TH-cam video!! And no he didn’t pay me to say that I am just a huge fan and a very thankful DIY Woodworker. So thanks again Stumpy Numbs for taking the time to share your expertise, and for making this excellent video!!
yeah. but is wrong. leather strop has been used for centuries to maintain a sharp edge. it IS NOT a sharpening device. it is a hone. impregnating your stop with grease and diamonds just turns into sandpaper. stumpy nubs knows a litle less than he claims.
I’m not a woodworker, but for some reason, I enjoy your videos.
When James / Stumpy covers a topic, it really gets covered. This one video has more info per vid frame than any other ones I have seen! Thanks again for another 'keeper' video that's one to go back to every time a question on honing pops into mind! And I really enjoy James's touches like how stropping a razor works and was done, love when he refreshes my memories of the -'old days'. And his never bat an eye spots of humor.
I took your advice in regards the Trend diamond stone. EGAD!! That thing is wonderful. Cuts quickly, finely and does an excellent job. I bought my strop from the same outfit and use the enclosed green and white paste - but only on the rough side of the strop. You provide the best, most incisive and most worthwhile advice on the internet. THANK YOU.
Hey David, wondering what grit/s you ended up with.
I've been watching your `Stumpy Nubs` videos for about 2 years now. I live in Japan and have no workshop other than my garden. Recently I made my own Saw Bench like the one you made about 5 years ago. I love the bench that I made it is so useful. Thanks for the quality content and inspiration.
PS: Go Wings!
This was one of the most beneficially videos I have seen on sharpening!!! I started using a strop and it changed my life!!!
I have been sharpening, began with scissors then knives, as a part time job for years and find myself now adding more and more different items to my repitoire. I now plan to begin adding straight razor sharpening
You can't get enough credit for how well you present the topic info. Beginner from South Africa here- and this video was SOLID info mate. Well done.
I have found good leather scraps from a national hobby store - usually comes in a bag for about $10 and there is plenty enough to make a stripping block. I’ve glued a piece on each side of a planed hardwood block, one side smooth & the other rough. Works perfectly for stropping chisels, carving knives and pocket knives.
Thanks for sharing!
That’s a really good idea, thanks!
What a great and informative video.
One trick: You're showing your grandfathers razor stropping with a swift stroke on the leather. At the end of the stroke you're giving the razor a turn on the edge. Doing this will blunt your edge, because you're rounding it. The much better (not to say: correct) way is to make a stroke with even (and light) force. Then stop at the end position without a quick and fancy change of direction. Now roll the razor over the back of the blade! And on you go.
This isn't a zack-zack-zack highspeed strop like you see in the barber shops in the old western movies. Stropping is a highly accurate finishing move for the precious edge of your razor. Don't ruin your hole sharpening effort by a sloppy stropping!
Best greetings from Hamburg, Germany!
Well said, Jürgen!
I was going to say the same thing Jurgen, but thought I would read the comments first to see if anyone caught what you did. You are absolutely correct. The blade should be rolled on the spine to go the other direction on the strop. What you did not mention was the reason why about the dulling of the edge. It happens when those using the strop go too fast and instead of lifting the edge up and off the strop they just flip the edge sometimes allowing edge to contact the strop in the turning which defeats why you are using a strop in the first place.
Good catch Jurgen.
David Warren , both of you are very correct! I checked to make sure someone else had covered this as well. If you don’t roll spine-down not only do you run the risk ruining your hone and having to start over, but more tragically, you may Knick your strop and render it unusable. I sure would hate to see that happen to any good strop, much less a family heirloom!
I think all four of you are completely full of orangutan shit.
@@davidwarren719 "Sloppy Strops": The evil twin of Stumpy Nubs
This gentleman is an excellent educator. I truly enjoyed this video and learned a great deal. Articulate, factual, helpful and to the point. Thank you!
I use 400 diamond --> 1000 diamond --> rough strop glued (well, DST'd) to wood & loaded with Veritas green compound. After a month or two of use the strop is no longer very rough & the edge improves, but for a quick strop & back to work it's pretty good from day one.
BTW, toothpaste is also a very fine abrasive...
This gentleman is an EXCELLENT presenter. Thorough, well-ordered content. Very well done!
One of the cleanest, most helpful explanation that I have heard. Interesting, and with some new ideas for me.
Great information and beautifully presented. I also use a 1000 grit diamond stone and strop. I only use the rough side of the leather with no compound and it gets me an edge sharp enough to shave my arm hair or dig into the back of nail in seconds. It could be sharper I know but it's sharp enough for my work building wooden boats with daily hard use and a maintained edge can keep me from using the stone for a week. I learned a lot, much appreciated Stumpy Nubs!
You have a way of getting down to the fine points (pun not intended) that I like to understand. First time I have heard about bending and replacing the steel edge. Well done, sir.
Great timing! I just purchased a scrap of cowhide from Tandy to make strops for myself and a couple of friends. I had planned on mounting leather to both sides of a paddle shaped piece of wood and wasn't sure which side of the leather to face outward. Problem solved! One side smooth, one side rough, charging the rough sided piece with polishing compound.
As always, great information.
8:48 is a hugely, tremendously valuable little piece of info for me - literally just cleared up about 15 years of confusion.
They’re both methods of delivering a very fine abrasive compound to the metal - one being a compressed stone of fine abrasive, and the other being a clay-like chunk of abrasive. Fine grit is fine grit; you just figure out what works for you and what you like better.
I’m just getting into woodworking and this is why I keep coming back to the Stumpster - he just goes in raw and gets right into the guts of this shit. I love it.
A major factor is choosing the correct bevel geometry according to your needs, and more importantly, what your tool or blade is capable of supporting. Blade and bevel geometry is often ignored as people focus more on grit finish. There's a reason kitchen knives are all extremely thin behind the edge (and spine) and hatchets are extremely thick behind the edge (and spine). High hardness yet strong (non-brittle) steels such as CPM 4V or K390 are capable of supporting extremely thin edges and bevel geometry without deforming. Another big issue is edge fatigue. When he stated that a razor's edge can be deformed and become wavy from human hair, that could be because the steel is not heat treated optimally, but the more likely scenario is that the edge is fatigued. Imagine a paper clip. When you bend it back and forth repeatedly in the same spot, that spot has become weakened or "fatigued". You can straighten the paper clip back out to its original shape, but that spot is never the same. This happens to a lesser extent on the apex of a blade. Bare leather strops and steels (non- abrasive sharpening rods) realign the apex of the blade FAR more than they remove material. What results is fatgued steel at the apex from being bent back and forth. This edge may be sharp but it will not retain that sharpness for very long as it is nowhere near as strong as it once was. It's important to actually hit the stones ans remove this fatigued steel from time to time (along with choosing the appropriate sharpening angle (bevel geometry) so that you will have a strong edge that will last much longer.
Man... what can I say? Your tips are excellent!
You saved me a lot of money, since, here in Brazil, in order to get good wet stones, diamond stones, or good sharpening jigs, we have to throw a ton of money to import those items.
Now, thanks to you, I use just two stones and a strop with green compound to get my blades (knifes, planes, chisels, whatever) sharp enough to get the job done.
And for just a few bucks.
But the best part, is that I don't have to spend hours doing it. Regular maintenance is all that it takes to keep my blades sharp;
Thank you ,AGAIN!
Salute from Brazil.
Thank you for patiently teaching us beginners. I'm learning much from you videos.
After years of watching wood TH-cam videos, I must say your channel regarding the knowledge about any product, is always the best, and the most useful. Thank you for all you share with us. An excellent video.
I'm 36 and have been sharpening since I was 12. Always knew it worked but didn't know how. Thanks I will be subscribed now. I look forward to learning.
All other videos are so confusing. Thank you, you did an incredible job answering all my questions as they came up. Amazing
Hi James, as a beginner to wood carving I find your tutorials very useful Regards, Phil
Great no nonsense video. This is how I keep things sharp now, one stone one piece of leather one green mystery stick. So many youtube vidoes on sharpening this is the best one I've seen. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for making the seemingly complicated so much easier to understand. I’ve got it now.
I loved your explanation you always hit the mark when should I clean the leather of the strop
My dad taught me to strop on paper. The shiny magazine covers are best. He said they used Clay in the paper to help it go shiny and keep the ink crisp when printing fancy pictures.
I also inherited a belt from him. It is much too big for me and rather than cut It i use the loose bit to strop when if finished using a diamond stone.......if there is no shiny magazine handy.
Never thought I’d share this info with anyone, let alone the interweb.
Shiny magazines work better if they have razor-sharp babes on the cover 😂
Yep, I believe it's called "kaolin" clay and I bet it's probably very similar to the natural silicates you'd find in leather that work as a fine abrasive
@@carlosmatos9848 Yup. Interesting to note that kaolin is the active ingredient in Kaopectate.
use gift wrapping paper
Newspaper work to Murray cater a master Japanese smith uses it
Its an absolute pleasure to watch your videos. Concise, informative - a breath of fresh air
Along with woodworking, I also do leather work and stropping has allowed me to keep the same blade in my carpet knife for about 6 months. I have a scrap of 9oz veg tan glued to a scrap of white oak, flesh side up. I use "jeweler's rouge" I bought from Weaver Leather and strop every time I pick up that knife. It just now occurred to me, thanks to your video, that I need to be doing the same with my woodworking tools. Another great video!
Got three books on sharping.
I have been sharping edged tool for 40 years & you video is the simplest I have seen & the easiest, low cost to use. thank you
As someone who is trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my wood working tools this video has probably saved me a fair bit of money and wasted time, many thanks. BTW I have finally subscribed.
Exceptionally clear concise presentation.
this is a well made video by today's standards, and its 5 years old ! very informative, succinct, and applicable. thank you.
I appreciate the information that you provide. Your delivery and personality are refreshing. To include, you covered one stroop question. To use the rough and smooth sides of the leather.
THANK YOU! (Go Red Wings)
Really great video. Thank you! I wondered why my green stick never worked as well as my white one. I was under the impression the green was actually coarser than the white. Now I know that the green should be used after the white, and that was the whole problem!
I have read countless articles in forums on stropping and one thing I notice is people get so stroppy when debating lol. I would love to see some scientific methodology on the subject as there are so many variables. Great informative video as usual young man.
Outstanding! From start to finish, your videos are filled with useful, practical information. Also, I often benefit from your links to good tools. Well done sir.
This was incredibly helpful for me as a knife sharpener, thanks Stumpy.
Thank you so much very helpful thank you I have no words I was about to spend $178 on a 16,000 grit Glass block for the final chartering of my chisel and hand plane blades and I tried the green con pound and it works really well but your video clarify many of the staff that I was thinking already again thank you so much my friend
Illinois Razor Strop Co. Chicago. I've been using one for many years, it works very well. Thanks for going to the trouble of making this video. According to my years of experience it's right on the money and very informative.
Great video.
I've had decent success with red Rouge and finishing with Mothers Wheel polish.
Yes, mothers works very well to to finish with.
Gotta be one of the clearest and most straightforward vids for understanding the actual edge 'mechanics', and the appropriate tools, for sharpening and final honing... thx much!
As always, another great video. Thank you for what you do. You consistently provide useful information in a way that is easily understood.
Another fluent delivery. You always leave me with the feeling that you absolutely know what you're talking about. Great stuff!
It has been a fairly long journey trying to understand how to sharpen chisels. i finally realized recently that it can take ALOT of time doing the basic grinding of the surface using just the 1000 grit stone (i have a diamond stone). And it appears when chisels are nicked and badly chipped it would take much less time doing the basic grinding on a wheel as you suggested. But getting the tool actually sharp has been elusive. So this may very well be the missing link i need to get to that final degree of sharpness. Thank you so much for a very infomative video.
Clean presentation. Straight to the point... Well Done ~
I'm extremely happy that I came across your video. First...... you are extremely informative, concise and your video(s) are very well done.
Second..... I followed your suggestions, directions and I can't believe how amazing my knife edges came out..! I have been a life-long knife collector and I have some knives that are extremely collectable and expensive. I like to use my knives, but I didn't want to lose that "Perfect" sharpness that was done by factories and/or knife makers. Now I have the confidence to sharpen these knives, by following your gracious tutoring.
Also, some of the edges that I've done, by using these methods, I believe are a step-up from the edges that these knives came with. I give you credit for this, due to the knowledge, practices and suggestions, that you kindly provide to you viewers.
Much appreciated, sir. Thank you and please keep your videos coming.
Thank you Stumpy Nubs, this was a real eyeopener for properly sharpening handtools.
I was guilty of strop misinformation being new to it and was applying what I thought was "appropriate firm pressure" and ruining my edges. Now I use 3 strop grits with light pressure and they come out super sharp.
Your helping me be a better woodworker and sharpener
Thank you! At last I found really unbiassed, clear advice on this subject. I like that you don't take an age to explain things but cover everything well. It's a fine balance. You've given be the confidence to dig out my old tools and give them a new lease of life.
Hi Stumpy
I have been watching your videos for years. This was a very in lighting one.
I do think a lot of people are to obsessed with sharpening. Spending more time sharpening then working..
Thanks John
i watch a lot of these type videos. This is one of the best. Explains quite a bit and tells you what you need. Thanks!!!!
For years I was on a fool's errand--trying to find the "perfect" sharpening system. I have spent thousands of dollars over the years on every kind of stone and jig imaginable--diamond, ceramic, waterstones, Arkansas stones, jigs, and of course, "scary sharp" with sandpaper. What I learned was that they all work well. Just pick one. I did the same with strops too--tried half a dozen different compounds, and even rubbing a metal polish (Flitz) into the leather. My favorite (and the only one I use today) is a green chromium oxide compound on the grain side of leather (the smooth side) which is glued to a piece of Baltic Birch plywood scrap that was the right size. Today I still flip around between diamond and waterstones for sharpening, but I always finish with stropping with green compound. If you buy an inexpensive USB microscope you can see for yourself what is happening to the edge with each process. It's useful for a quick check to see if you're ready to move up a grit when sharpening--no more guesswork.
I am far from a woodworker. But, I am a knife enthusiast, and a wet shaver, using a nice Thiers Issard straight razor. The razor is what brought me to this video. Thank you, very much, for being so informative. I finally really understand why I need a strip, and how to use it. You probably have saved me countless nicks and cuts in the future.
Going from staff carving to chip and relief carving, I had no idea how to use a strop. Thank you for this tutorial!
this is incredibly comprehensive
i have been serious hobby sharpening for over a decade and this is the best explanation of stropping i have seen. including certain honing and sharpening channels.
great job! thank you.
Being a woodcarver, my fellow woodcarvers and I have used leather for years. I have been experimenting and tried and a strip of old Navy uniform belt from World War 2 really holds the compound and wears like iron. I just glued it to a paint stick and keep with my carving tools. The rounded edge of the belt also works well for stropping the concave edge of my small gouges. Thank you for making all these videos. I find it interesting how we as woodworkers seem to end up doing things the old way. We also use cereal box cardboard to sharpen small micro carving tools.
Fine cardboard like that can be improved by using brown paper bag sprayglued to a flattened piece of soft pine. That gets you well into polishing sheets, typically 8000-12000 grit.
The BEST explanation of stropping I've seen yet. Thank you! I've been through all of the sharpening systems imaginable (diamond, water, scary, etc.) and lately find myself simplifying my process. For hundreds of years the standard woodworking sharpening system in America consisted of a soft Arkansas stone and a strop. I've been using a similar system, sometimes experimenting with an India stone rather than an Arkansas, and easily (and as you said, cheaply) achieve hair-shaving, softwood-end-grain-cutting sharpness on knives and tools. If somebody asks me for a suggested sharpening system my answer now is "anything plus a strop." Pressed for specifics, I suggest the largest India stone you can afford and a leather strop with green compound.
etneedham
That's what I use. An india stone and a strop. I tell people about it and they generally dismiss that as it is to easy and inexpensive. If you don't have $400 in waterstones and crap to maintain them, it just couldn't work.
Great video. As soon as the edge starts to dull, a few quick strokes on the strop brings it right back. Like you, I find that 1000 grit diamond plate then strop is pretty much all I need.
I use Autosol metal polish, It does a great job, and a tube lasts forever,
Another excellent video well researched and presented without all the noise that so many of them contain. Thank you.
WOW----I have been saying this for years----great tutorial. You have to listen to the "old guys" and not all the modern hype
Thank you Mr. Hamilton, this was very informative as I am about to begin sharpening my (Deceased Father-in-laws) old chisels & a couple of planning blades. This information will help a lot!
This is a really useful and comprehensive roundup as I have come to expect from this channel. Thank you for the time and effort and the humour!
As always, no fuss and straight to the point. I really likebyour videos as they are a good source of information. I'm very new to woodworking and trying my best to make it my new hobby.
Thank you again and keep upthe good work.
JL
Thank you best video yet! I’m new to the craft and want to begin on a good path.
I've used Mother's aluminum polish, with nice results, Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the info on the approximate grits per compound
This is a very, very good video. So helpful, thank you!
Watched a lot of videos and read many articles on sharpening techniques and equipment but this is by far the best I've come across that explains the purpose and use of stopping and stropping compounds. Its clear, concise and progress in order that avoids confusion. With and excellent summary to finish off the video. Two thumbs up!
Thanks so much for this! I'd been trying to improvise my way through the process and was doing okay, but it's so nice to hear it all clearly laid out and explained. Thanks!
Sorry, I wasn't done - I am also a leather-worker and appreciate your comments on stropping. Your videos are very thorough and I find them quite helpful.
Clear teaching format....could listen for hours!!!
TY for that easy-to-understand basics of sharpening woodcarving tools. It was simple to understand and it's one of the few "How-to's" I have seen on what each sharpening stone color means in the way of grit. Only thing I did not hear was the approximate grit difference between the gold and green compounds, whereas you did explain the approximate grit of all the other compound colors. Nonetheless, I have definitely saved this video explaining the overall process.
I always use a leather Strop, but didn't really know what the green stick was for. I originally thought it was a polish. Thank you for the quick lesson.
You are always so knowledgable. I learn something new with every video. TY
Stumpy, great job of explaining all this, ( as usual .). Awhile back I got some CBN stropping compound from Amazon. I got 14 micron and 0.5 micron for 1.4 oz each for $13.30 each. CBN is more aggressive for its grit size than Diamond and lasts longer, the crystals aren’t as brittle as diamonds. It comes in 0.25, 0.5, 1.0 3.0,5, 20, and 60 grits. Seems to me like a win-win deal to me.
Thank you for being there for us novice woodworkers. I was just reflecting on how much knowledge and information a novice can accumulate in 6 month’s watching Utube videos compared to a traditional in shop apprentice in the early 1900’s. And someone had to pay for that education without pay. A lot of the work was gofer stuff, not good learning work. Some say those were the good old days ???
Dude! I just tried this out on my axe. It went from nice and sharp to scarysharp in about two minutes (including the time to apply the compound). I will use this method for the rest of my life.
In case anybody is curious, I used a bar of white rouge and the back of an old leather belt.
Harry Pehkonen
You used a bar of white red? Red and white makes pink. I have never seen pink polishing compound. So, what was it? Red, white, or pink?
I have good luck with mothers aluminum and mag polish. I started using it, because I already had it, but it works for me so I keep using it. I haven't compared it to anything though so I might be missing something better who knows. When I'm done sharpening my blades will shave hair nicely.
I watch a ton of woodworking videos and very rarely to I come across one where I either I know at little about what is being discussed and while I knew leather was good for honing I didn’t know the details I really appreciate this video and it has helped a ton thanks
Good information, thanks.
I've never used a strop, just steel, and have enjoyed a decent edge. Excited to see how a strip changes it.
Another great and useful video; thanks for clearing-up the differences between the compounds.
This is great, really clears up a lot of conventions in sharpening I wondered what’s the purpose.
Lots of great info in this video on why we do what we do on a strop
You always gives me something new or think about and having spent my life working with metal and now at 83 getting into word working I have another set of skills to learn thank for the videos you put out.
You rock if i want a simple straight forward answer to a question your the go to guy thanks for making life easier
Very clear and useful explanations !! Thanks dude !!