Another fantastic build, those brass/gold decals really makes the kit pop,for lighting the bridge front section I put the bulbs in a different place. I also notice you don't add lights to the windows on the rear section.
Great looking model even without the lights and full brass kits. As one who likes to scratch build a bit, all those parts you threw away - 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮. - LOL. Great model 👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Really nice result Lou 👍 As and when I get round to doing this one I'll probably stop the weathering after the light grey mist coat rather than adding the black wash. I know Klingon ships are generally quite grungy but I'm sure that the Chancellor would have a number of plebs assigned to keeping his flagship clean! All credit to you for hacking the warp nacelle lighting - those wires are far too thick and far too long for the job. I wondered why they didn't provide green strip lighting for the nacelles but obviously if the whole thing runs off a 4.5V battery pack that would not be an option. I tend to use the CA/baking soda method for fixing my necks to the body as it sets like concrete! Yes, it's annoying that the nacelle strobes can be seen through the front light pipes. As you say, something to be mindful of in future builds. With respect to the wing brass decals, I quite agree that the box artwork does not agree with the decal numbering but is that because the numbering is wrong or the person who built the kit for the artwork put the decals on the wrong way round? You would need to look at reference photos for the deciding vote! In the end a really nice outcome and I'm looking forward to seeing how the fully tricked out version goes. Hopefully you will have better luck than Phil has had with his Refit Enterprise 😯
Glorious, Lou! From stem to stern. The paint desaturation is just ideal-- to my eye. Your lighting choices are your own! I'm just on the side, carping away, because that's my job, man! The decal work is fascinating-- they got a real glitter going somehow. My "take" on the long wiring is that they might have thought that winding the wires around that big open (transparent green) area was the way to not cross them in front of the openings. Maybe. You did the right thing in trimming them down. Yes, I say, to trimming the battery connections. Also maybe a strong magnet or two in there. The somewhat dim cobra head is still okay-- that is such a pretty ship. Oh, if the future would hold such a thing...
Amazing the size of this kit, when you picked it up. Beautiful result just using the kit lights. The painting, decal work, and finishing on this kit are really awesome!
To intensify the lighting inside the head, paint it chrome inside there. Just make sure you have it as close to 100% black light locked as possible before laying down the chrome.
The front view of that ship while you were doing the decals looks like a cartoon cat in a sombrero that’s getting its tail mashed. I love all these colors, Lou. This thing looks great.
I was getting more and more anxious about those bright saturated colors but the gray wash toned them down perfectly. Makes me wonder what paints the filming model makers used. I have to admit that every time I look at one of these Klingon ships, I wonder what the actual bird of prey they are supposedly designed after looks like. I mean, TNG era Romulan ships have a sort of beak at the front, but the “cobra head” and the bulb not so much. Sorry if you can’t unsee what I’m talking about.
Beautiful build and I can't wait to see the even more souped-up version! A light grey wash definitely seems to do the trick. If you don't mind my asking ... what gloss clear and flat clear sprays are you using these days?
@@aztekdummy+ Lou that's what I use love the stuff never had an issue with krylon paints and clears I also download your videos Lou to use as reference when I use your mask that came in real handy when I was building my cylon rader your mask make it so much easier to paint will get this from cult tv man
@@aztekdummy love the work Lou, could you have applied a clear coat before your mist coat of weathering? That way you could back track if mistakes were made? Also, diffuser gels for nacelles.
I heard you say in the video that you were waiting for the soldering iron to heat up. I have a soldering station by hakko (a cheap one also) that heats up to temperature in about 5 seconds. I just hate waiting sometimes. I love it. Also, how long do you think till your masks are available for the kronos?
I’ve never used lights on any of my models. I get shocks from holding a battery the “right” way. I don’t mind the use of brass - I try to use it on my 700 scale ships.
@@aztekdummy it should work as long as it is DC to DC and you should get less battery drain with a 9 volt battery only pulling 4 volts it is definitely worth a shot anyway though I would try it out on a different system so you don’t blow out the kit setup
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That joke was awesome!!!!!!!
What a beautiful model. Love it Lou ❤
Great job. Looking forward to next week.
I put in an RBG led in the front torpedo tube and useed silver tape to line the inside of the tube, and it looks great!
Beautiful Looking Build Lou Can't Wait to see how the Next One Turns Out.
that closing line 😂😂😂
Amazing! Brass does make it POP
Fantastic work
Those metal decals kick bottom!
Awesome work! 👍♥️
Another fantastic build, those brass/gold decals really makes the kit pop,for lighting the bridge front section I put the bulbs in a different place.
I also notice you don't add lights to the windows on the rear section.
those windows on the secondary hull are not lit on the Kronos one, only the K'tinga
@@aztekdummy the windows on the front bulb are so small they're really hard to light.
Great looking model even without the lights and full brass kits.
As one who likes to scratch build a bit, all those parts you threw away - 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮. - LOL. Great model 👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Lightning, thunder and hard rain is what we have right now in N. CA!
The Kronos looks great!
Molded details, paint, decals and brass all works together to show up as a richly ornamented sculpture, superb.
That looks outstanding! Beautiful job!
Masterpiece as usual!!!
Really nice result Lou 👍 As and when I get round to doing this one I'll probably stop the weathering after the light grey mist coat rather than adding the black wash. I know Klingon ships are generally quite grungy but I'm sure that the Chancellor would have a number of plebs assigned to keeping his flagship clean! All credit to you for hacking the warp nacelle lighting - those wires are far too thick and far too long for the job. I wondered why they didn't provide green strip lighting for the nacelles but obviously if the whole thing runs off a 4.5V battery pack that would not be an option.
I tend to use the CA/baking soda method for fixing my necks to the body as it sets like concrete!
Yes, it's annoying that the nacelle strobes can be seen through the front light pipes. As you say, something to be mindful of in future builds.
With respect to the wing brass decals, I quite agree that the box artwork does not agree with the decal numbering but is that because the numbering is wrong or the person who built the kit for the artwork put the decals on the wrong way round? You would need to look at reference photos for the deciding vote!
In the end a really nice outcome and I'm looking forward to seeing how the fully tricked out version goes. Hopefully you will have better luck than Phil has had with his Refit Enterprise 😯
I must admit. From the front Kronos looks like a very surprised Klingon in a sombrero.
Glorious, Lou! From stem to stern. The paint desaturation is just ideal-- to my eye. Your lighting choices are your own! I'm just on the side, carping away, because that's my job, man! The decal work is fascinating-- they got a real glitter going somehow.
My "take" on the long wiring is that they might have thought that winding the wires around that big open (transparent green) area was the way to not cross them in front of the openings. Maybe. You did the right thing in trimming them down. Yes, I say, to trimming the battery connections. Also maybe a strong magnet or two in there.
The somewhat dim cobra head is still okay-- that is such a pretty ship. Oh, if the future would hold such a thing...
Amazing the size of this kit, when you picked it up. Beautiful result just using the kit lights. The painting, decal work, and finishing on this kit are really awesome!
Beautiful model amazing work!
Awesome paint work! I love how the weathering toned down the colors and gave it that realistic feel to it. The model turned out really well.
Round 2's electricians need to learn from you, Lou!
Looks fantastic! Really nice.
Freaking awesome looking 👍 ❤️
To intensify the lighting inside the head, paint it chrome inside there. Just make sure you have it as close to 100% black light locked as possible before laying down the chrome.
Round 2: notorious for having misnumbered decals. I think I've only had a few that i didn't have to figure out the correct placement
The front view of that ship while you were doing the decals looks like a cartoon cat in a sombrero that’s getting its tail mashed.
I love all these colors, Lou. This thing looks great.
.. Lou , when you do the finished video .. can you please use a white background , so we can see the Kit in all it's Glory ??? .. Thank You
I'll do that once I've got both done. Thanks
I was getting more and more anxious about those bright saturated colors but the gray wash toned them down perfectly. Makes me wonder what paints the filming model makers used.
I have to admit that every time I look at one of these Klingon ships, I wonder what the actual bird of prey they are supposedly designed after looks like. I mean, TNG era Romulan ships have a sort of beak at the front, but the “cobra head” and the bulb not so much. Sorry if you can’t unsee what I’m talking about.
Wow Lou amazing
Excellent. Round2 never gets numbers wrong. What are you talking about Lou?
Fantastic end result! Have you been watching Adam Savage and his build of a 3D printed filming model?
Yes. I am envious of folks with big budgets.
@@aztekdummyHi Lou you doing 2 of this kit kronos one and kronos two
Beautiful build and I can't wait to see the even more souped-up version! A light grey wash definitely seems to do the trick. If you don't mind my asking ... what gloss clear and flat clear sprays are you using these days?
I can still find Krylon at Lowes.
@@aztekdummy+ Lou that's what I use love the stuff never had an issue with krylon
paints and clears I also download your videos Lou to use as reference when I use your mask that came in real handy when I was building my cylon rader your mask make it so much easier to paint will get this from cult tv man
Love the colors u use for the nacels what u use so I can also follow you in this building
it's all in the first or second video. they are Tamiyas except the red which is vallejo model air red
@@aztekdummy love the work Lou, could you have applied a clear coat before your mist coat of weathering? That way you could back track if mistakes were made? Also, diffuser gels for nacelles.
I clear coated before the black wash, but after the gray mist. I try to not need to back track. Once the decals go down, it's set in stone.
Great kit looks great.
What about a rechargeable battery & a stepdown board to take it from 9V to 5V.?
Yes, that would work, but the mission was to stay as stock as possible
Are you going to try making a mask or two for the decal?
no, just tell folks to trim it close. a mask might pull off the decal
@@aztekdummy I was meaning as a replacement for the decal as painting it on should work better than the decal it would replace
@@TheSonofruss nah, the detail on the logo is too intricate to make masks for
I heard you say in the video that you were waiting for the soldering iron to heat up. I have a soldering station by hakko (a cheap one also) that heats up to temperature in about 5 seconds. I just hate waiting sometimes. I love it. Also, how long do you think till your masks are available for the kronos?
a week, tops. I'm finishing the instructions now
I’ve never used lights on any of my models. I get shocks from holding a battery the “right” way.
I don’t mind the use of brass - I try to use it on my 700 scale ships.
As for the lights wouldn’t a buck converter help with the voltage issue
yes, but do those work with a 9v battery?
@@aztekdummy it should work as long as it is DC to DC and you should get less battery drain with a 9 volt battery only pulling 4 volts it is definitely worth a shot anyway though I would try it out on a different system so you don’t blow out the kit setup
Lou, where do you get your MEK glue from? Loving this build 🖖
Any of the big box hardware stores. You can get in pints , or gallons
@@aztekdummy Thank you