For those who want to grow blueberries in buckets: 01. Bucket 55l 02. Soil from a pine forest 03. Mix the soil with pieces of sticks and pine bark 04. Pine bark mulch Purchased soil is dead soil. No doubt. Purchased fertilizer is not as good as slowly decaying sticks with pine bark. They gradually give the blueberries nutrients. If you really want to take care of the blueberry, it is a good idea to let pieces of pine bark stand in water for several weeks. As soon as the water "rusts", it also has a low ph, then water them. If you have blueberries in black buckets, they will heat up a lot in the sun and the roots will suffer. Either use white buckets or simply paint the black ones white or wrap them in paper or aluminum foil. One last piece of advice: the more varieties of blueberries, the more fruit you will have. Failure is not possible with this procedure
What about pine cones if they are crushed? There's a few massive trees in the park near my house and there are hundreds of pine cones on the ground. I'd love to be able to use some of those if they are good to use.
Incorrect. it is proved by scientific studies that pine bark has a ph really much higher than thought (more around 6.5-7) like pine needles. Pine needles while on tree are quite acidic but ph goes up quickly once they fall. Blueberries love a ph of 4.5/5 so the best is to use peat moss (low acidic ph) and then in container you can use sulphate in powder adding a bit every so often and using fertilisers with ammonium sulphate. That should get you an acidic soil. By 'purchased fertiliser" I guess you mean mineral? In a container having pine bark decaying over months is not good quick enough. In pots only mineral is fast enough. you can always add worm casting but again it is slow...
Your blueberry potting mix makes so much sense because sphagnum peat moss and pine bark nuggets/pine needles is what in many cases what nature provides for blueberries to thrive. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and video.
The recipe in this video actually came from a grower that sells many different kinds of berry plants. Their main website can be found here: www.backyardberryplants.com There are more links and information in the description box. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just for clarity, the ratio is: -one part pine bark mini-nuggets -one part sphagnum peat moss -enough water to moisten or saturate the sphagnum peat moss. Although you may end up adding enough water to equal the volume of the other ingredients, it’s not specifically an ingredient itself. Not unlike a dried out sponge, dry sphagnum peat moss does not readily accept water until it’s a bit damp. Physically mixing in the water is the fastest and easiest way to wet out the sphagnum peat moss. You don’t want to try getting water to absorb into a large container full of blueberry mix made with fully dry sphagnum peat moss. The process will be somewhere between a huge pain in the neck and impossible. Far better to physically mix in the water before dumping the mix in the pot. The amount of water you add will vary with how dry your sphagnum peat moss is. If you think you’ve added too much water, put the blueberry mix into the pot and let the pot full of blueberry mix sit for a while. Any excess water will run out the bottom of the pot soon enough. Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting!
Glad you liked the video! The warmer climate where you are is going to make growing blueberries in containers easier than in a cold weather area like me. Good luck! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like this idea. I use Pro-Mix. It's a yellow bag compressed to expand to 2 cu ft. It's $11 and has perlite for aeration and mycorrihizae. I pick it up at walmart.
Although I’ve not personally tried it, the Pro-Mix I’ve seen around here is almost all peat moss, so this certainly could/should work. Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting!
Very well made video mr. Adding the mix a little bit at a time over the wire reminded me of planting asparagus crowns. Add a little soil to keep ‘em where ya want them before ya go for the shove. Thumbs up man!
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the video. I’d plant asparagus myself, although I don’t know where I’d put it. Oh well . . . Thanks for watching and commenting.
Shredded bark would be fine on the surface as mulch, but I would not use any shredded bark in the potting mix itself. Thanks for watching and commenting.
the website mentions soil-less mix of 50:50 peat moss and pine bark mini nuggets..... but doesn't talk expressly about containers/pots gardening. (does say that you can use this in pots and that most types of blueberries do very well with this and some LOVE it, like Patriot.)
I’ve found the mix to work well in a raised bed and in pots. The real issue with potted blueberries is cold temperatures. Not being in the ground leaves a potted plant much more exposed in the winter. Most of the varieties I’ve tried to grow in pots haven’t survived a zone 4 winter with out some sort of protection. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak i'm zone 7.... wonder if in my case would be ok for winter.... (i'm about to pot them but trying to do as much research prior as i can. currently on companion planting. seems these are good: columbine, borage, morning glories, roses. so thats a mix of beneficials plus the roses are pure ornament lol) not sure how cold zone 4 gets.... (technically here in ATL it doesn't go below 20 degrees... BUT.... this past winter it went to -9 because idk climate chaos. so to be safe i just consider me a zone 7.) i'm new to berries. totally. just got these bluets recently from hardware store and a raspberry. wild blackberries growing on the property this year. i think they siphoned off stuff from my compost lol. they have shot up HUGE in that area. wild. when i got the place there were just some scraggy shoots with thorns that didn't seem to do anything, or grow, and i cut out the ones in front. NOW, they are prolific and the ones right around the compost - 7ft at least. impressive. gotta net the ones i can reach. they are all down this little slope area. the japanese beetles are hitting them and some of the roses. never dealt with these before. dunno if there's some plants they hate or are poisonous. conflicting info online but seeing them ass-end-out diving into the bloomed roses pisses me off. lol. maybe it's the look of pure (DESTRUCTIVE) gluttony. like they passed out after a bender, not moving. some people say 4 o'clocks, other sites say useless, others say hand pick off and drop into soapy water. ugh. idk that we had these in FL. can't recall seeing them. i think it was a diff type of beetle.
No. This mix calls specifically for pine bark nuggets. When I find chunks of wood in with the bark nuggets, I pull them out and put them in with my yard waste. Thanks for watching and commenting.
i loved the video i am going to move my blueberries from the ground to a raised bed , i have tried and failed three times growing blueberries, did you do the second video on feeding the new blueberry plants in containers ?
I use the soilless blueberry mix presented in this video in both a raised bed and in large containers. The fertilizer used is the same in both the raised bed and containers. The amount of fertilizer I use depends on the size of the plant. The varieties I have planted in containers are all physically smaller varieties than the blueberry plants in the raised bed, so they get a smaller volume of fertilization. Blueberries are a challenge, that’s for sure! After I started using this soilless mix and the fertilization schedule in my other video, (both from www.backyardberryplants.com) my growing issues were essentially solved. However the predation and damage from varmints, vermin and birds is a constant that doesn’t stop even in winter. I’ll be doing a video on how I deal with those issues later this spring. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I don’t have any place to put my plants, so they all have to stay outside. If I don’t insulate the pots -the rest of the plant remains exposed- most of the varieties I’ve tried have not survived the winter. When I’ve grouped the potted plants together and surrounded the pots with mulched leaves, nearly everything survives. Protecting potted blueberry plants from the cold is only part of the deal. Varmints, especially rabbits, can decimate unprotected blueberry plants. I’ve had rabbits get past fencing and eat younger plants right down to the ground. Good luck with your blueberries and thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you have thoughts on also adding coffee grounds to the mix to also help acidify the soil the bit and add a little more organic matter? Could it make it *too* acidic? thanks!
I have no idea what effect coffee grounds would have on this mix. So, adding any coffee grounds to the mix would be strictly experimental on your part. That said, for some folks experimenting is part of what they like about gardening. Sorry I couldn’t be more help. Good luck with your berries! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Im curious why the pots. Seems like an unnecessary expense when you could just plant them in the ground. Thanks for your video. I have grown blueberries before with success but they went into decline and eventually died. Not sure what happened but suspect I over fertilized them
Well, any blueberry planted in the ground can’t be easily moved whereas potted plants can be. Secondly, blueberries need very specific and acidic growing conditions to thrive. I have blueberries in the ground as well. They are all in a raised bed filled with this very same mix because amending the native soil in my area is futile. If you’re planting blueberries in the ground, I suggest having a soil test done beforehand. That way you’ll know what kind of growing conditions you’re starting with. There is more information linked to in the description for this video. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
You can use shredded bark to mulch the top of the potting mix. However the mix itself needs to be made with bark nuggets. Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is a great idea. Could you please be more specific about what you’d like to see. I have yet to see any bud break on my plants, but it’ll be happening soon. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak I would like to see how much your blueberry plants grow from year to year after you get them. I will be getting some from Backyard berry plants as well. Do you have a favorite cultivar? I got honey Creek. Also, it was useful to see what the pine bark mini nuggets look like. I was actually getting a somewhat finely shredded pine mulch, versus what I see are nuggets or chunks here. I’m debating whether to use this anyway or explore local "nugget" options. Good luck!
Thanks for the request. I’ll try to work that into a future video. The blueberry variety that has done the best in my garden is Northland, so you could call it my favorite . . . for now. 😀 For some reason comments that get added to existing threads don’t always show up in the TH-cam comments panel. I’m glad I found this one. Thanks for watching and commenting and good luck with your blueberry plants.
Curious as the other videos show you need to feed them and put other ingredients in, does this acidify the PH levels? Do you fertilize throughout the year? How many times? What do you use? Like the video, also have a rat issue so that trick with the mesh was a good idea. Please answer when you can, thank you
The sphagnum peat moss used in the mix is intrinsically acidic and I believe the pine bark is too. So the ph of the potting mix stays low on it’s own.The fertilizer I talk about in my other video is just fertilizer. There are links in the description box for the site where I got the recipes for the potting mix and the fertilizer. One reason I like this soilless blueberry mix is that I don’t have to add an acidifier to keep my blueberries looking good. For what isn’t worth, Backyardberryplants.com has nice blueberry plants too! I typically add an acid loving granular fertilizer from Espoma or Happy Frog in the spring once the potting mix has thawed enough to allow me to work the fertilizer into the surface. I start applying the liquid fertilizer toward the end of May. The liquid fertilizer gets applied every two weeks or so until the first week in September. Like everyone else, my plant care and fertilization revolve around the weather. Here, the ground is frozen solid five months a year. If you live someplace warmer, what your plants need will be different. Books by Lee Reich will also have useful information in them too. His web site is www.leereich.com. I believe he also responds to comments on his blog posts. Good luck and thanks for commenting.
This is true. The only thing I would change is the bark. Bark is good but it will decompose and use up oxygen in the soil. It is a little more expensive but cinder or pummice is a better option.
I really curious, have you actually gotten this formula change to work? Because in my experience, pine bark is slow to decompose and pumice is about triple the cost of pine bark nuggets. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak Well on a large scale opperation cinder here in hawaii is a better option because I am able to leave the plants in the pot 3x longer. Also when trasplanting I don't have to remove the dead soil. Pine bark is useful for only one reason. It provides drainage and oxygen exchange. Once it starts to decompose both of those things dissapear. Pine bark will last six months. Nuseries use it because they will sell their plants in six months and the bark is cheap, light, and does the job. If I may direct you to a video to learn about soil look up Gary's best gardening chanel and watch his video on perfect soil. It changed everything for me.
Thank you for sharing. Where we put ours last year,it's not the best place. We have a question, can we move them to another part of the yard that,has better soil?
Yeah, your plant can be moved. You need to make sure you get the entire root ball, or at least as much of the root system as you possibly can. In my opinion, you’re better off moving the plant before it gets larger and more mature. Other than knowing it’s possible to move a blueberry plant and that you need to preserve the root system as much as possible, I can’t offer you any more replanting tips. I’ve successfully moved other plants this size, but my experience moving blueberry plants specifically is minimal. Most of my blueberry plants are in pots and the ones that aren’t haven’t needed to be moved. Good luck with relocating your blueberry plant(s), and thanks for watching and commenting.
I tried this and had no luck. It could have been something more i was doing wrong on my end but… it just seems like theres not enough substance to give the roots anything. Im going to try the azalea mix and pine park
You are correct, this does not work by itself. This mix needs to be used with fertilizer. The fertilizer mix I’ve used can be seen here: th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html You can also check the links in the description for more information. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’m working on a video that addresses this question. I can tell you that protecting the plants from varmints that can and will eat the plant down to the ground in winter is as important as insulating the root system of potted blueberries. Damage from various critters has caused more problems for my than winter weather. And the weather is not a trivial problem. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak I will keep an eye out for that video! I had 3 brand new plants eaten down to nothing last winter. They came back this year though so hopefully that means in a few years they will produce.
Do you have an opinion or experience about using the Miracle Sphagnum peat moss that (feeds the plants for 3 months) Not sure if i should just do my own fertilizing
I’m not familiar with the product you’re referring to. However, I do have a video on blueberry fertilizer. That video can be found here: th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html I’ve also linked to the source material for the blueberry mix and the blueberry fertilizer in the video description. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The website I got the recipe from -there is a link in the description- stated that the peat moss must be sphagnum peat moss. No ph value was given and I don’t know the ph of the sphagnum peat moss typically available in North America, much of which is from Canada. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I sometimes cut landscape fabric for the bottom of pots but it's not really required. I get mice and rats where I am but, my Blueberry plants get watered regularly so there's no dry area for vermin.
I’ve used landscape fabric in the past as well. I started using hardware cloth to cover the drain holes in all my potted plants years ago after finding a shrew(s) in the bottom of a potted tomato plant that itself was well watered. Is using hardware cloth over the drain holes of a pot *necessary*? Perhaps not. However, I find preventing problems a whole lot easier than solving them after they occur. And hardware cloth over the drain holes of my potted plants works really well at keeping vermin from burrowing in through those openings. Unfortunately, covering the drain holes does nothing to keep squirrels from digging in the top of the pots. But that’s another story. 🤨 Thanks for watching closely enough to leave a specific comment. Cheers!
I honestly don’t know. The original recipe (link in the description) mentions using pine needles as mulch, but says nothing about using cones in the mix itself. If you have enough cones, this may be worth investigating further. The main issues are the effect of cones on the pH of the mix and their effect on the texture of the mix. Tree cones can vary quite a bit from one variety of tree to the next so the answer to your question may vary depending on what kind of tree you have. Whether or not you want to spend your time researching this is a decision only you can make. Thanks for watching and commenting.
This mix is for plants that *require* acidic soil. Other types of plants will not do well at all. Check the soil pH recommendations for whatever you’re planting and go from there. My rhubarb does just fine in ‘regular’ garden soil, so I doubt you’d want to plant rhubarb in this type of mix. I don’t know about the specific soil requirements for raspberries etc. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
From your brief description, I think you probably do need to put them in different soil or potting mix. Blueberries *require* acidic soil/potting mix. Nearly everything I’ve read puts the ideal pH of the soil or potting mix at 4.6 or 4.7. For perspective, the ‘ideal’ vegetable growing soil is usually has a pH of about 6.7. Blueberries also do better in a soil or potting mix that is ordinarily considered very poor soil for growing typical garden vegetables. It’s my opinion that trying to acidify soil with an intrinsically high(er) pH is futile and getting the soil right to start with is a far better way to go. Check the links in the description for more information from the source I originally got this recipe from. Author Lee Reich is also a great resource. www.leereich.com Getting the soil pH and fertilizer worked out is not as complicated or difficult as it can seem. For me the real battle has been against the varmints. Rabbits, mice, squirrels etc. will each ravage unprotected blueberry plants in a different way. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
For instance, I don’t want to transfer the bushes into the larger ones, so what would be your suggestion to use the optimum container size for the rest of the entire life of Blueberry bushes need without changing? Moreover, we can’t supply these mixings from Turkey since they are not available in EU market, what would you recommend else similar to your ingredients?
The size of the container will vary depending on the mature size of the variety of blueberry plants you’re planting in the container. I’ve standardized on the 25 gallon pot (95 liters) because it is the largest pot I can get for a reasonable cost. Fortunately, most cold hearty blueberry varieties we have in North America are smaller plants that will grow in this size container. A well cared for blueberry can live for decades. I think it is unlikely for a container grown blueberry to never need any work over that lifespan. Every few years you’ll probably have to do some sort of maintenance to the container and the plant. I’m not at all familiar with what gardening materials are available in your part of the world, so I can’t make any direct recommendations. However, I can give you a couple guidelines that may help tracking down workable blueberry mix ingredients. Depending on what resource you consult, blueberries need a soil/potting mix with a pH of 4.6 to 4.7. Finding a growing media with an intrinsically low pH will reduce the maintenance need to keep the pH of the growing medium sufficiently low for blueberries to thrive. There are also other plants that require acidic soil/potting mix conditions similar to blueberries. If you can, find out what plants in your part of the world need those conditions, and how gardeners in your area grow them successfully in containers. Do that, and you’ll probably have found a potting mix that will also work for growing blueberries. I hope this information helps you successfully grow blueberries in containers. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If by “pine leaves” you mean pine needles, then yes you can use them *on top* of the blueberry mix to mulch blueberry plants. They are NOT a substitute for any of the ingredients in the potting mix itself. Follow the link in the description to the web site where this recipe originated. The professional grower who came up with this recipe mentions pine needles in one of his articles. He also has more advice on mulching blueberries and general blueberry care. Thanks for watching and commenting.
As long as the mix is *fully saturated* with water, then yes you could plant right after mixing. Although . . . Trying to get any remaining dry material to wet-out after planting is a true pain in the buns. Therefore, I have usually waited a day or two to make extra sure the sphagnum peat moss has completely rehydrated. The extra day also gives any excess water time to drain from the pot. Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
I don’t put more than one blueberry plant in a container regardless of the advertised plant size. Even with smaller varieties, a 25 gallon pot isn’t so big that the spread of the branches won’t reach the edges of the pot. Another reason I like to use 25 gallon pots is because the extra potting mix provides a larger reservoir of water. Some of the wild/dwarf varieties available could be planted in small containers if you’re willing more closely monitor the moisture in the potting mix. I also find caring for plants that have their own pot to be easier than dealing with multiple plants in a single pot. This holds true for my tomatoes and peppers too. One thing to remember is that the larger a container is the heavier it will be. Especially when the potting mix is fully saturated with water. I rarely move my potted blueberries so this isn’t an issue for me. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
I not sure about the pine bark mulch. Check out the links in the description that refer back to backyardberryplants.com, which is where the blueberry mix recipe originated. Thanks for watching and commenting.
These are Gro Pro brand containers. You can try to find them locally at hydroponics or interior gardening stores. They can be found online as well, but given how big they are the shipping charges can be substantial. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you have any videos showing how you actually plant the shrub when moving from a smaller contain to a larger one? Also, what makes some blueberries sweet and others not so sweet? Is it the ph level or the variety or both?
I don’t yet have any videos where I transplant a blueberry bush. Moving a plant from a one or two gallon container to a larger container is pretty easy because the plant being moved isn’t very big. I’ve got two plants in 20 gallon containers that I’ll be moving to 25 gallon containers this spring. So there will be a transplanting video in the next month or two. In my experience, the variety of blueberry and the degree of ripeness can have a major effect on the flavor. Knowing what berries are fully ripe and which are not, is tough. A blueberry that has changed color can be still be underripe and will have a lower sugar content. A lower sugar content will -obviously- make the berry less sweet. Like most fruit, environmental conditions can also play a role in the taste. It is entirely possible to have a ‘bad year’ where the taste of the berries suffers. The pH of the potting mix will effect the entire plant. However, I don’t know enough to be more specific than that. If the pH of the potting mix/growing media/soil is correct, about the only thing you can control on existing plants is when you pick the berries. Once the berries change color, let the berries hang on the plant for a while before you pick them and see if that changes the taste for the better. Choosing the ‘right’ varieties can be a real crap shoot. I won’t buy multiples of any variety until I know how well that variety will do in my garden. Best of luck with your blueberry growing, and thanks for watching and commenting.
Probably not. This mix is blueberry specific and the pH is most likely far too low for strawberries to thrive. Good luck with your berries and thanks for watching and commenting.
As near as I can tell, Golfgreen is just a brand name. If you look around on the wrapper you should see something stating what the exact contents are. The images of the Golfgreen brand I found online had a line right on the front stating “100% CANADIAN SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS”. If this is the product available in your area, you should be fine. The website I got this recipe from (link in the description) specifically states “must be sphagnum”. The sphagnum peat moss is critical to the success of this mix. If you don’t see something stating the contents are 100% sphagnum peat moss, keep looking.
Very informative video . I want to know without soil is this potting mix is good enough to grow blueberries and what fertilizer you use for feeding the plants ?
This mix works really well for growing blueberries. However it will not work well for growing typical garden vegetables such as peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. Blueberries thrive in acidic conditions that are different from those found in a vegetable garden. Which is one of the main reasons I have most of my blueberries in pots. The video on the fertilizer system I use can be found here: th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html Also check the links in the description for more information. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Well, I’ve only buried potted blueberries twice. The pots were/are covered nearly to the rim, leaving enough space to get a grip on the pot to make removing the pot less challenging. Notice I wrote ‘less challenging’ and not easy. Personally, I’d never cut the bottom of the pot away. I think any benefits gained would be outweighed by the options lost. Of course, my opinion(s) are based on the GroPro brand plastic pots like the one featured in this video and surrounding soil that drains quickly. If I had drainage issues, I wouldn’t bury a blueberry plant. I’d find a way to insulate the roots in the winter. Others with more and/or different experience than I have may well have different opinions. You could try asking this question on the blog at www.leereich.com/blog. Lee’s books are what got my into growing blueberries in the first place. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your berry plants!
Unfortunately, I have no advice as to what can be used as an alternative. Where I live essentially all the sphagnum peat moss comes from Canada. Thanks for watching and commenting.
No. The texture, size and decay resistance aren’t the same. I suspect the pH isn’t the same either. I go so far as to pull out the non-bark chunks of wood that I usually find in a bag of bark nuggets. I have yet to find a garden friendly use for the mixed species wood dust that comes out of my shop. Larger wood chips, yes. But not the dust. Sigh . . . Good luck with any blueberries you may plant. And thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi I have a question for you, I have two two years old blueberries potted plants , I'm worry because two days ago mixed the blueberries soil with organic acidifier soil, one cup to each one , my question is , they could get burned due too much soil organic acidifier . please what can I do if happen.
Because the potting mix in this video is intrinsically acidic, I’ve never had to add acidifier to my blueberries. So, I have very little experience with this type of situation. I think if you followed the directions printed on the soil acidifier package you should be OK. In the future, testing the pH of the soil and/or potting mix before adding anything to change the pH is helpful. Knowing what to use and how much to use is much more precise when you know what the starting pH actually is. I prefer to send samples out for testing, but there are also home test kits and pH meters available. There is some variability between testing methods and testing labs. You’ll get more consistent results if you always use the same testing method or the same professional lab. I hope your plants are OK. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’ve never had any of this blueberry potting mix tested. All the blueberry plants I have are in this mix and all of them are doing well. So, I’ve never had a reason to have the mix tested. Is it possible the pH of the mix is not ideal? Sure. But if that is the case, the variation isn’t enough to show up in the health of the plants themselves. Thanks for viewing and asking a question.
I use the squares to block the drain holes on all my large containers regardless of what is planted in the container. The hardware cloth squares are for keeping vermin like mice, shrews, voles etc. from using the drain holes in a container as a burrow entrance. I haven’t had any issues with these creatures burrowing into containers starting at the drain holes since I started using the hardware cloth squares to block the drain holes. This may not be necessary on containers with the drain hole(s) in a different location. But, I personally use them on all my pots seven gallons and larger regardless of the location of the drain hole(s). They also have the added benefit of keeping any potting mix from coming out of the drain holes. You don’t *need* to use them to grow blueberries in containers. However, my experience has been that small animals are *far* more likely to damage or destroy my plants -especially the blueberries- than all other issues combined and the hardware cloth squares are an easy solution to that particular problem. Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
The pot in this video is a 25 gallon Gro Pro brand pot. Correct, one plant per pot. Even with a 25 gallon pot, I still try to pick blueberry varieties that are physically smaller plants once they mature. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I got the shovel in the video at a local box store after seeing one in the cart of the person ahead of me in the checkout line. I believe this the the same model shovel I have: uniontools.com/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=2679&SubFamilyId=419&FamilyId=411&LineId=398 I purchased mine several years ago and the store no longer carries this exact shovel. You might be able find one locally if you ask. But be careful shopping at box stores. Some of the shovels can be unbelievably, almost despicably chintzy. Sneeboer tools are not cheap, but they are essentially bulletproof and worth the price. You may find yourself using the kid’s ‘toys’ yourself! 😃 sneeboerusa.com/product-category/childrens/ I have a fair number of Aldi garden tools myself. A few have been terrific for the price, others not so much. I’ve got a broken stainless steel hand spade I need to get welded back together. 🤨 Good luck finding what you’re looking for! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Personally, I wouldn’t do that. From experience, I know pine shavings, saw dust, etc. will decompose too quickly and I doubt the pH of the wood is the same as the pH of the bark. And the proper (low) pH is critical when growing blueberries. When I prepare this mix, I’ve always pull out any pieces of wood that are mixed in with the bark. More information can be found using the links in the description. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’ve never tried using a cloth grow pot, but I can’t see any reason why you couldn’t at least try using one. There are however, a few caveats. 1.You’ll need a pretty big cloth pot. The smallest plastic pot I’ve ever used is 20 gallons. I now use 25 gallon pots because the added blueberry mix holds more water. Any container made from a porous material will dry out faster than a non-porous material like plastic. 2. Blueberries also have roots near the surface and I’m not sure if the exposed surface of a typical grow bag would be large enough or not. 3. What is the expected life of a cloth pot? A properly cared for blueberry plant can live for decades. How often do you want to be repotting the plant? If I was going to try this I’d plant a dwarf variety. I think a half-high or highbush blueberry would out grow all the grow bags I’ve seen before the plant reaches is mature size. Good luck with whatever you decide to do! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I water my blueberries as needed. I stick a finger below the surface of the potting mix to feel if the plant needs to be watered or not. The mix drains fairly well so I’m not too concerned about overwatering. The mix also holds a fair amount of water so the plants don’t need to be watered everyday. If you live somewhere hot and dry, you’ll probably have to water more often. Feel the mix right after a thorough watering and judge the need for water from there. Waiting until the mix is dry is -obviously- not a good idea. If you’ve done any gardening at all, getting a feel for the water needs of a blueberry plant won’t take much practice. Good luck with your plants. And thanks for watching and commenting on a second video.
The basic mix is: 1 part sphagnum peat moss 1 part pine bark mini nuggets Then: add enough water to wet thoroughly Dry peat moss is slow to absorb water so *mixing* the water in while mixing the two ingredients is faster and easier than trying to saturate a pot full of dry mix. Trying to get a large pot full of bone dry mix to fully hydrate could take days. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Correct. The ingredients in this mix make the mix intrinsically acidic. The mix should stay acidic too, with little -probably none- acidification needed in the future. This said, it never hurts to have a pH test done on the mix once in a while. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Unfortunately, I don’t know the answer to this question. The recipe demonstrated in this video comes from www.backyardberryplants.com. They are a grower/seller of blueberries and other berry plants. I have a link to their planting guide page in the description box. You could try contacting them with this question. One of the keys to blueberries is keeping the ph low. If cedar bark is acidic it may well work. If you find an answer to this question and have the time to add the answer to this comment thread, please do so. This kind of information can help other backyard blueberry growers. Thank you for asking and good luck with your plants!
@@roccoconte2960 Thanks for helping, funny I cannot find Pine Bark anywhere not even on line unless I want to buy a potato chip bag size for 12 bucks. So the hunt continues.
Nope. No soil whatsoever. This is a soilless mix that approximates the kind of material wild blueberries actually grow in. Blueberries thrive in conditions that would be a very poor place for most garden vegetables. That said, plants in this mix do better when used in conjunction with the fertilizer I demonstrate in this video: th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and commenting.
Lucky you! If you have a clean and functioning cement mixer, use it! A cement mixer will spare you from a tremendous about of physical labor. I’ve often thought about buying a cheap one myself. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Correct. Canadian sphagnum peat moss (usually the Premier brand) is what I use because that is what is available in my area. Thanks for watching and commenting.
To the best of my knowledge adding manure would not help and could actually have a detrimental effect on the plants. Blueberries actually thrive in soil/potting mix that is essentially unusable for growing regular garden vegetables. There are links to more information in the description. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Just wondering though, isn't sphagnum peat moss a very environmentally unsustainable product? Or am I thinking of the wrong sphagnum product?
Peat is at the very least a controversial subject. Interestingly, peat and sphagnum moss (often called peat moss) are not the same thing. Sphagnum moss is a common *component* in actual peat, but is not itself peat. Even though sphagnum moss is often called ‘peat moss’. I think that some of the controversy surrounding the use of sphagnum peat moss for horticultural purposes comes from the conflation of ‘peat’ and ‘peat moss’. If you define unsustainable as using a material faster than said material can be replenished, then everything I’ve read effectively says peat mining is unsustainable. Can the same thing be said about sphagnum peat moss? Quite possibly not. Unfortunately, almost all of the arguments for or against the use of sphagnum peat moss seem to be rooted in ideology not empirical data. Which makes a concrete answer to your original question almost impossible. I realize this may not be much help. But the more I read on this subject, the less clear any answers become. Sigh . . . Thanks for watching and commenting!
@Croaky Hi! I’m wondering how your blueberry plants are doing and if you get good harvests from them? All my blueberry plants (first time gardener and first time planting blueberry plants) leaves have turned bright red and falling off by the day and I don’t know what’s causing it . Please help me. I used sphagnum peat moss mixed with compost to plant them in. I am going to lowes tomorrow to grab pine bark nuggets and will replants. I also used a water soluble fertilizer for acid loving plants. Please help me I don’t want my blueberry plants to die. thank you so much!
I honestly don’t know what is going on with your plants. What you’re describing is what my plants typically do in October(ish) when many other plants and trees are also getting ready for winter. I have my doubts if fertilizer for acid loving plants is going to be able to significantly alter the pH of the potting mix. Repotting them in a different mix won’t hurt anything. Whether that’ll be enough to help your blueberry plants survive remains to been seen. Making mistakes and/or having your garden do poorly is a great way to learn. If your plants die, you’ll know far more about what *not* to do than when you started. This may not be a fun way to learn, but it is effective. If your plants die don’t give up! Take what you’ve learned and try again. I’ll be doing a vlog(s) starting in a week or so, which should answer you’re first question. Good luck with your garden and thanks for watching and commenting.
The mix ratio is: 1 part sphagnum peat moss 1 part pine bark mini nuggets There are links in the description to the grower/nursery where I got this recipe. You can get more of the specifics there. Thanks for commenting!
Fabric is better than nothing. 1/4” and 1/8”(if you can find it) hardware cloth is a gardener’s friend. 😀 Good luck with your potted plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
Blueberries have unique growing requirements and only thrive in what is usually regarded as poor soil. Part of the challenge of growing blueberries is wrapping your head around just how different those soil conditions are versus those found in a typical vegetable garden. This mix works well. I’ve been using it for years. Although it works best when paired with the fertilizer I presented in a different video on this channel. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Although I am new to blueberry growing, I trust this guy and agree with him because I have done tons of research on blueberry varieties, ph, how to grow and what soil combo to use and I can say his recipe for perfect blueberry soil is the same as the pro blueberry growers recommend, many of those channels specialize in blueberry farming so they know what they are talking about when recommending things specific for blueberries
For those who want to grow blueberries in buckets:
01. Bucket 55l
02. Soil from a pine forest
03. Mix the soil with pieces of sticks and pine bark
04. Pine bark mulch
Purchased soil is dead soil. No doubt.
Purchased fertilizer is not as good as slowly decaying sticks with pine bark. They gradually give the blueberries nutrients. If you really want to take care of the blueberry, it is a good idea to let pieces of pine bark stand in water for several weeks. As soon as the water "rusts", it also has a low ph, then water them. If you have blueberries in black buckets, they will heat up a lot in the sun and the roots will suffer. Either use white buckets or simply paint the black ones white or wrap them in paper or aluminum foil. One last piece of advice: the more varieties of blueberries, the more fruit you will have.
Failure is not possible with this procedure
Nice thx
What about pine cones if they are crushed? There's a few massive trees in the park near my house and there are hundreds of pine cones on the ground. I'd love to be able to use some of those if they are good to use.
@@Lyca31those are seeds I think
@@magazine00 Thanks for the info. I think you're right.
Incorrect. it is proved by scientific studies that pine bark has a ph really much higher than thought (more around 6.5-7) like pine needles. Pine needles while on tree are quite acidic but ph goes up quickly once they fall. Blueberries love a ph of 4.5/5 so the best is to use peat moss (low acidic ph) and then in container you can use sulphate in powder adding a bit every so often and using fertilisers with ammonium sulphate. That should get you an acidic soil. By 'purchased fertiliser" I guess you mean mineral? In a container having pine bark decaying over months is not good quick enough. In pots only mineral is fast enough. you can always add worm casting but again it is slow...
Your blueberry potting mix makes so much sense because sphagnum peat moss and pine bark nuggets/pine needles is what in many cases what nature provides for blueberries to thrive. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and video.
The recipe in this video actually came from a grower that sells many different kinds of berry plants. Their main website can be found here:
www.backyardberryplants.com
There are more links and information in the description box. I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
One third Pine bark mini-nuggets, one-third spagnum peat moss, and one-third water. Yes. Thanks. I have this and am going to try it now.
Just for clarity, the ratio is:
-one part pine bark mini-nuggets
-one part sphagnum peat moss
-enough water to moisten or saturate the sphagnum peat moss.
Although you may end up adding enough water to equal the volume of the other ingredients, it’s not specifically an ingredient itself.
Not unlike a dried out sponge, dry sphagnum peat moss does not readily accept water until it’s a bit damp. Physically mixing in the water is the fastest and easiest way to wet out the sphagnum peat moss. You don’t want to try getting water to absorb into a large container full of blueberry mix made with fully dry sphagnum peat moss. The process will be somewhere between a huge pain in the neck and impossible. Far better to physically mix in the water before dumping the mix in the pot.
The amount of water you add will vary with how dry your sphagnum peat moss is. If you think you’ve added too much water, put the blueberry mix into the pot and let the pot full of blueberry mix sit for a while. Any excess water will run out the bottom of the pot soon enough.
Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting!
How did it work out for you?
You didn't add ericaceous compost. Why?
Country Girl Grit watching from Myrtle Beach S.C. Great video
Glad you liked the video! The warmer climate where you are is going to make growing blueberries in containers easier than in a cold weather area like me. Good luck!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like this idea. I use Pro-Mix. It's a yellow bag compressed to expand to 2 cu ft. It's $11 and has perlite for aeration and mycorrihizae. I pick it up at walmart.
Although I’ve not personally tried it, the Pro-Mix I’ve seen around here is almost all peat moss, so this certainly could/should work.
Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting!
I heard it has to be 👉🏻Canadian Peat Moss to bring down the PH down for acid levels blueberries need.
@@gofigure4920 ur right
Very well made video mr. Adding the mix a little bit at a time over the wire reminded me of planting asparagus crowns. Add a little soil to keep ‘em where ya want them before ya go for the shove. Thumbs up man!
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the video. I’d plant asparagus myself, although I don’t know where I’d put it. Oh well . . .
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey. What do ya think about if I would shred the pine bark before mixing it with the peat moss to aid in the decomposition
Shredded bark would be fine on the surface as mulch, but I would not use any shredded bark in the potting mix itself.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I've already re-potted mine for this year but I am bookmarking this for next year as I'm already thinking about moving them to a better location.
Thanks for bookmarking this video! Good luck if and when you decide to move your plants.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you for getting right to the topic.
My pleasure! I’m not a fan of extended introductions either.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
the website mentions soil-less mix of 50:50 peat moss and pine bark mini nuggets..... but doesn't talk expressly about containers/pots gardening. (does say that you can use this in pots and that most types of blueberries do very well with this and some LOVE it, like Patriot.)
I’ve found the mix to work well in a raised bed and in pots. The real issue with potted blueberries is cold temperatures. Not being in the ground leaves a potted plant much more exposed in the winter. Most of the varieties I’ve tried to grow in pots haven’t survived a zone 4 winter with out some sort of protection.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak i'm zone 7.... wonder if in my case would be ok for winter.... (i'm about to pot them but trying to do as much research prior as i can. currently on companion planting. seems these are good: columbine, borage, morning glories, roses. so thats a mix of beneficials plus the roses are pure ornament lol)
not sure how cold zone 4 gets.... (technically here in ATL it doesn't go below 20 degrees... BUT.... this past winter it went to -9 because idk climate chaos. so to be safe i just consider me a zone 7.)
i'm new to berries. totally. just got these bluets recently from hardware store and a raspberry. wild blackberries growing on the property this year. i think they siphoned off stuff from my compost lol. they have shot up HUGE in that area. wild. when i got the place there were just some scraggy shoots with thorns that didn't seem to do anything, or grow, and i cut out the ones in front. NOW, they are prolific and the ones right around the compost - 7ft at least. impressive. gotta net the ones i can reach. they are all down this little slope area.
the japanese beetles are hitting them and some of the roses. never dealt with these before. dunno if there's some plants they hate or are poisonous. conflicting info online but seeing them ass-end-out diving into the bloomed roses pisses me off. lol. maybe it's the look of pure (DESTRUCTIVE) gluttony. like they passed out after a bender, not moving. some people say 4 o'clocks, other sites say useless, others say hand pick off and drop into soapy water. ugh. idk that we had these in FL. can't recall seeing them. i think it was a diff type of beetle.
How do you protect the pots in the winter? I am also in zone 4 and will be following your technique
Can we add pine wood saw...with peat moss
No. This mix calls specifically for pine bark nuggets. When I find chunks of wood in with the bark nuggets, I pull them out and put them in with my yard waste.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
The Blueberry brought me to you! New subscriber from Georgia🌻🌿🌱
Welcome!! Thank you for subscribing. May the critters and varmints leave your plants alone. 😊
i loved the video i am going to move my blueberries from the ground to a raised bed , i have tried and failed three times growing blueberries, did you do the second video on feeding the new blueberry plants in containers ?
I use the soilless blueberry mix presented in this video in both a raised bed and in large containers. The fertilizer used is the same in both the raised bed and containers. The amount of fertilizer I use depends on the size of the plant. The varieties I have planted in containers are all physically smaller varieties than the blueberry plants in the raised bed, so they get a smaller volume of fertilization.
Blueberries are a challenge, that’s for sure! After I started using this soilless mix and the fertilization schedule in my other video, (both from www.backyardberryplants.com) my growing issues were essentially solved. However the predation and damage from varmints, vermin and birds is a constant that doesn’t stop even in winter. I’ll be doing a video on how I deal with those issues later this spring.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
How do you over winter them in the Pots? So you let them just stay outside? Or do you bring them in to a garage?
I don’t have any place to put my plants, so they all have to stay outside. If I don’t insulate the pots -the rest of the plant remains exposed- most of the varieties I’ve tried have not survived the winter. When I’ve grouped the potted plants together and surrounded the pots with mulched leaves, nearly everything survives.
Protecting potted blueberry plants from the cold is only part of the deal. Varmints, especially rabbits, can decimate unprotected blueberry plants. I’ve had rabbits get past fencing and eat younger plants right down to the ground.
Good luck with your blueberries and thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you have thoughts on also adding coffee grounds to the mix to also help acidify the soil the bit and add a little more organic matter? Could it make it *too* acidic? thanks!
I have no idea what effect coffee grounds would have on this mix. So, adding any coffee grounds to the mix would be strictly experimental on your part. That said, for some folks experimenting is part of what they like about gardening.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help. Good luck with your berries!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Im curious why the pots. Seems like an unnecessary expense when you could
just plant them in the ground. Thanks for your video. I have grown blueberries
before with success but they went into decline and eventually died. Not sure
what happened but suspect I over fertilized them
Well, any blueberry planted in the ground can’t be easily moved whereas potted plants can be. Secondly, blueberries need very specific and acidic growing conditions to thrive. I have blueberries in the ground as well. They are all in a raised bed filled with this very same mix because amending the native soil in my area is futile.
If you’re planting blueberries in the ground, I suggest having a soil test done beforehand. That way you’ll know what kind of growing conditions you’re starting with.
There is more information linked to in the description for this video.
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
Does it have to be mini pine bark nuggets or can it be shredded pine bark mulch?
You can use shredded bark to mulch the top of the potting mix. However the mix itself needs to be made with bark nuggets.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good information. Would you make a video showing us your blueberry plants when they come out of dormancy please?
This is a great idea. Could you please be more specific about what you’d like to see. I have yet to see any bud break on my plants, but it’ll be happening soon.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak I would like to see how much your blueberry plants grow from year to year after you get them. I will be getting some from Backyard berry plants as well. Do you have a favorite cultivar? I got honey Creek.
Also, it was useful to see what the pine bark mini nuggets look like. I was actually getting a somewhat finely shredded pine mulch, versus what I see are nuggets or chunks here. I’m debating whether to use this anyway or explore local "nugget" options. Good luck!
Thanks for the request. I’ll try to work that into a future video.
The blueberry variety that has done the best in my garden is Northland, so you could call it my favorite . . . for now. 😀
For some reason comments that get added to existing threads don’t always show up in the TH-cam comments panel. I’m glad I found this one. Thanks for watching and commenting and good luck with your blueberry plants.
Curious as the other videos show you need to feed them and put other ingredients in, does this acidify the PH levels? Do you fertilize throughout the year? How many times? What do you use? Like the video, also have a rat issue so that trick with the mesh was a good idea. Please answer when you can, thank you
The sphagnum peat moss used in the mix is intrinsically acidic and I believe the pine bark is too. So the ph of the potting mix stays low on it’s own.The fertilizer I talk about in my other video is just fertilizer. There are links in the description box for the site where I got the recipes for the potting mix and the fertilizer. One reason I like this soilless blueberry mix is that I don’t have to add an acidifier to keep my blueberries looking good. For what isn’t worth, Backyardberryplants.com has nice blueberry plants too!
I typically add an acid loving granular fertilizer from Espoma or Happy Frog in the spring once the potting mix has thawed enough to allow me to work the fertilizer into the surface. I start applying the liquid fertilizer toward the end of May. The liquid fertilizer gets applied every two weeks or so until the first week in September.
Like everyone else, my plant care and fertilization revolve around the weather. Here, the ground is frozen solid five months a year. If you live someplace warmer, what your plants need will be different.
Books by Lee Reich will also have useful information in them too. His web site is www.leereich.com. I believe he also responds to comments on his blog posts.
Good luck and thanks for commenting.
That is correct, the pine bark is acidic.
Thanks for the info!
You’re welcome!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is true. The only thing I would change is the bark. Bark is good but it will decompose and use up oxygen in the soil. It is a little more expensive but cinder or pummice is a better option.
I really curious, have you actually gotten this formula change to work? Because in my experience, pine bark is slow to decompose and pumice is about triple the cost of pine bark nuggets.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak Well on a large scale opperation cinder here in hawaii is a better option because I am able to leave the plants in the pot 3x longer. Also when trasplanting I don't have to remove the dead soil. Pine bark is useful for only one reason. It provides drainage and oxygen exchange. Once it starts to decompose both of those things dissapear. Pine bark will last six months. Nuseries use it because they will sell their plants in six months and the bark is cheap, light, and does the job. If I may direct you to a video to learn about soil look up Gary's best gardening chanel and watch his video on perfect soil. It changed everything for me.
Are you actually growing *blueberries* in Hawaii using a mix of 50% sphagnum peat moss and 50% lava rock?
@@CroakyOak Yes. Emerald blueberries.
@@CroakyOak In containers because our soil and water is alkaline.
Thank you for sharing. Where we put ours last year,it's not the best place. We have a question, can we move them to another part of the yard that,has better soil?
Yeah, your plant can be moved. You need to make sure you get the entire root ball, or at least as much of the root system as you possibly can. In my opinion, you’re better off moving the plant before it gets larger and more mature.
Other than knowing it’s possible to move a blueberry plant and that you need to preserve the root system as much as possible, I can’t offer you any more replanting tips. I’ve successfully moved other plants this size, but my experience moving blueberry plants specifically is minimal. Most of my blueberry plants are in pots and the ones that aren’t haven’t needed to be moved.
Good luck with relocating your blueberry plant(s), and thanks for watching and commenting.
I tried this and had no luck. It could have been something more i was doing wrong on my end but… it just seems like theres not enough substance to give the roots anything. Im going to try the azalea mix and pine park
You are correct, this does not work by itself. This mix needs to be used with fertilizer. The fertilizer mix I’ve used can be seen here:
th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html
You can also check the links in the description for more information.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
What do you do to protect them in the winter?
I’m working on a video that addresses this question. I can tell you that protecting the plants from varmints that can and will eat the plant down to the ground in winter is as important as insulating the root system of potted blueberries. Damage from various critters has caused more problems for my than winter weather. And the weather is not a trivial problem.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak I will keep an eye out for that video! I had 3 brand new plants eaten down to nothing last winter. They came back this year though so hopefully that means in a few years they will produce.
Do you have an opinion or experience about using the Miracle Sphagnum peat moss
that (feeds the plants for 3 months) Not sure if i should just do my own fertilizing
I’m not familiar with the product you’re referring to. However, I do have a video on blueberry fertilizer. That video can be found here:
th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html
I’ve also linked to the source material for the blueberry mix and the blueberry fertilizer in the video description.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi there.. can I use peatmoss ph 5,5?? Cause in my country only have that.. thx
The website I got the recipe from -there is a link in the description- stated that the peat moss must be sphagnum peat moss. No ph value was given and I don’t know the ph of the sphagnum peat moss typically available in North America, much of which is from Canada. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I sometimes cut landscape fabric for the bottom of pots but it's not really required. I get mice and rats where I am but, my Blueberry plants get watered regularly so there's no dry area for vermin.
I’ve used landscape fabric in the past as well. I started using hardware cloth to cover the drain holes in all my potted plants years ago after finding a shrew(s) in the bottom of a potted tomato plant that itself was well watered.
Is using hardware cloth over the drain holes of a pot *necessary*? Perhaps not. However, I find preventing problems a whole lot easier than solving them after they occur. And hardware cloth over the drain holes of my potted plants works really well at keeping vermin from burrowing in through those openings. Unfortunately, covering the drain holes does nothing to keep squirrels from digging in the top of the pots. But that’s another story. 🤨
Thanks for watching closely enough to leave a specific comment. Cheers!
Instead of pine bark, can i use pine cones from my pine trees?
I honestly don’t know. The original recipe (link in the description) mentions using pine needles as mulch, but says nothing about using cones in the mix itself.
If you have enough cones, this may be worth investigating further. The main issues are the effect of cones on the pH of the mix and their effect on the texture of the mix. Tree cones can vary quite a bit from one variety of tree to the next so the answer to your question may vary depending on what kind of tree you have.
Whether or not you want to spend your time researching this is a decision only you can make.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Does this recipe work for blackberries raspberries and rhubard as well. How about hydrangeas.
This mix is for plants that *require* acidic soil. Other types of plants will not do well at all. Check the soil pH recommendations for whatever you’re planting and go from there.
My rhubarb does just fine in ‘regular’ garden soil, so I doubt you’d want to plant rhubarb in this type of mix. I don’t know about the specific soil requirements for raspberries etc.
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
What do you conditioner the soil with the following year? Thank you!
I use the fertilizer schedule in this video:
th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm a complete beginner, iv just put my blueberries plant in a multi-purpose compost, do i need to remove plant?
From your brief description, I think you probably do need to put them in different soil or potting mix. Blueberries *require* acidic soil/potting mix. Nearly everything I’ve read puts the ideal pH of the soil or potting mix at 4.6 or 4.7. For perspective, the ‘ideal’ vegetable growing soil is usually has a pH of about 6.7.
Blueberries also do better in a soil or potting mix that is ordinarily considered very poor soil for growing typical garden vegetables. It’s my opinion that trying to acidify soil with an intrinsically high(er) pH is futile and getting the soil right to start with is a far better way to go.
Check the links in the description for more information from the source I originally got this recipe from. Author Lee Reich is also a great resource. www.leereich.com
Getting the soil pH and fertilizer worked out is not as complicated or difficult as it can seem. For me the real battle has been against the varmints. Rabbits, mice, squirrels etc. will each ravage unprotected blueberry plants in a different way.
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
For instance, I don’t want to transfer the bushes into the larger ones, so what would be your suggestion to use the optimum container size for the rest of the entire life of Blueberry bushes need without changing? Moreover, we can’t supply these mixings from Turkey since they are not available in EU market, what would you recommend else similar to your ingredients?
The size of the container will vary depending on the mature size of the variety of blueberry plants you’re planting in the container. I’ve standardized on the 25 gallon pot (95 liters) because it is the largest pot I can get for a reasonable cost. Fortunately, most cold hearty blueberry varieties we have in North America are smaller plants that will grow in this size container.
A well cared for blueberry can live for decades. I think it is unlikely for a container grown blueberry to never need any work over that lifespan. Every few years you’ll probably have to do some sort of maintenance to the container and the plant.
I’m not at all familiar with what gardening materials are available in your part of the world, so I can’t make any direct recommendations. However, I can give you a couple guidelines that may help tracking down workable blueberry mix ingredients.
Depending on what resource you consult, blueberries need a soil/potting mix with a pH of 4.6 to 4.7. Finding a growing media with an intrinsically low pH will reduce the maintenance need to keep the pH of the growing medium sufficiently low for blueberries to thrive. There are also other plants that require acidic soil/potting mix conditions similar to blueberries. If you can, find out what plants in your part of the world need those conditions, and how gardeners in your area grow them successfully in containers. Do that, and you’ll probably have found a potting mix that will also work for growing blueberries.
I hope this information helps you successfully grow blueberries in containers.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Would pine leaves be good for mulching?
If by “pine leaves” you mean pine needles, then yes you can use them *on top* of the blueberry mix to mulch blueberry plants. They are NOT a substitute for any of the ingredients in the potting mix itself.
Follow the link in the description to the web site where this recipe originated. The professional grower who came up with this recipe mentions pine needles in one of his articles. He also has more advice on mulching blueberries and general blueberry care.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can we plant right away after mixing
As long as the mix is *fully saturated* with water, then yes you could plant right after mixing. Although . . .
Trying to get any remaining dry material to wet-out after planting is a true pain in the buns. Therefore, I have usually waited a day or two to make extra sure the sphagnum peat moss has completely rehydrated. The extra day also gives any excess water time to drain from the pot.
Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
How many plants can you plant in 25 gallon container.
Can pine bark mulch be used. I can’t find mini pine bark nuggets.
Thanks
I don’t put more than one blueberry plant in a container regardless of the advertised plant size. Even with smaller varieties, a 25 gallon pot isn’t so big that the spread of the branches won’t reach the edges of the pot.
Another reason I like to use 25 gallon pots is because the extra potting mix provides a larger reservoir of water. Some of the wild/dwarf varieties available could be planted in small containers if you’re willing more closely monitor the moisture in the potting mix.
I also find caring for plants that have their own pot to be easier than dealing with multiple plants in a single pot. This holds true for my tomatoes and peppers too.
One thing to remember is that the larger a container is the heavier it will be. Especially when the potting mix is fully saturated with water. I rarely move my potted blueberries so this isn’t an issue for me.
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
I not sure about the pine bark mulch. Check out the links in the description that refer back to backyardberryplants.com, which is where the blueberry mix recipe originated.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
What size pot do you use? Please!
The pot in this video is a 25 gallon GroPro brand pot.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Croaky Oak, where could I find the container you are using, currently using the 20" Plastic Whiskey Barrel looking containers.
These are Gro Pro brand containers. You can try to find them locally at hydroponics or interior gardening stores. They can be found online as well, but given how big they are the shipping charges can be substantial.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you have any videos showing how you actually plant the shrub when moving from a smaller contain to a larger one? Also, what makes some blueberries sweet and others not so sweet? Is it the ph level or the variety or both?
I don’t yet have any videos where I transplant a blueberry bush. Moving a plant from a one or two gallon container to a larger container is pretty easy because the plant being moved isn’t very big. I’ve got two plants in 20 gallon containers that I’ll be moving to 25 gallon containers this spring. So there will be a transplanting video in the next month or two.
In my experience, the variety of blueberry and the degree of ripeness can have a major effect on the flavor. Knowing what berries are fully ripe and which are not, is tough. A blueberry that has changed color can be still be underripe and will have a lower sugar content. A lower sugar content will -obviously- make the berry less sweet.
Like most fruit, environmental conditions can also play a role in the taste. It is entirely possible to have a ‘bad year’ where the taste of the berries suffers.
The pH of the potting mix will effect the entire plant. However, I don’t know enough to be more specific than that.
If the pH of the potting mix/growing media/soil is correct, about the only thing you can control on existing plants is when you pick the berries. Once the berries change color, let the berries hang on the plant for a while before you pick them and see if that changes the taste for the better.
Choosing the ‘right’ varieties can be a real crap shoot. I won’t buy multiples of any variety until I know how well that variety will do in my garden.
Best of luck with your blueberry growing, and thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak Thank you so much!
Great video . Thanks so much
You’re welcome!
Thanks for commenting and watching.
Thank you for the video. Peace
You’re welcome!
Thank you for watching and commenting.
🌍❤️🕊😊
😊 Thank You So Much For Sharing !
Stay Safe!
You’re welcome! You stay safe as well.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Will this method work for strawberries too?
Probably not. This mix is blueberry specific and the pH is most likely far too low for strawberries to thrive.
Good luck with your berries and thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Croaky Oak , I have a question can I use Golfgreen peat moss instead sphagnum, thanks for the answer
As near as I can tell, Golfgreen is just a brand name. If you look around on the wrapper you should see something stating what the exact contents are. The images of the Golfgreen brand I found online had a line right on the front stating “100% CANADIAN SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS”. If this is the product available in your area, you should be fine.
The website I got this recipe from (link in the description) specifically states “must be sphagnum”. The sphagnum peat moss is critical to the success of this mix. If you don’t see something stating the contents are 100% sphagnum peat moss, keep looking.
@@CroakyOak thanks very much
Very informative video . I want to know without soil is this potting mix is good enough to grow blueberries and what fertilizer you use for feeding the plants ?
This mix works really well for growing blueberries. However it will not work well for growing typical garden vegetables such as peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. Blueberries thrive in acidic conditions that are different from those found in a vegetable garden. Which is one of the main reasons I have most of my blueberries in pots.
The video on the fertilizer system I use can be found here:
th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html
Also check the links in the description for more information.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I was thinking of burying the container with the bottom removed, then adding the mix. Any thoughts on that idea?
Well, I’ve only buried potted blueberries twice. The pots were/are covered nearly to the rim, leaving enough space to get a grip on the pot to make removing the pot less challenging. Notice I wrote ‘less challenging’ and not easy.
Personally, I’d never cut the bottom of the pot away. I think any benefits gained would be outweighed by the options lost. Of course, my opinion(s) are based on the GroPro brand plastic pots like the one featured in this video and surrounding soil that drains quickly. If I had drainage issues, I wouldn’t bury a blueberry plant. I’d find a way to insulate the roots in the winter.
Others with more and/or different experience than I have may well have different opinions. You could try asking this question on the blog at www.leereich.com/blog. Lee’s books are what got my into growing blueberries in the first place.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your berry plants!
I have seen this reccomened to help with nematodes, because they seem to stay in the top foot of soil.
In UK we don't get peat any more.
Unfortunately, I have no advice as to what can be used as an alternative. Where I live essentially all the sphagnum peat moss comes from Canada.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
will pine sawdust work?
No. The texture, size and decay resistance aren’t the same. I suspect the pH isn’t the same either.
I go so far as to pull out the non-bark chunks of wood that I usually find in a bag of bark nuggets.
I have yet to find a garden friendly use for the mixed species wood dust that comes out of my shop. Larger wood chips, yes. But not the dust. Sigh . . .
Good luck with any blueberries you may plant. And thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi I have a question for you, I have two two years old blueberries potted plants , I'm worry because two days ago mixed the blueberries soil with organic acidifier soil, one cup to each one , my question is , they could get burned due too much soil organic acidifier . please what can I do if happen.
Because the potting mix in this video is intrinsically acidic, I’ve never had to add acidifier to my blueberries. So, I have very little experience with this type of situation. I think if you followed the directions printed on the soil acidifier package you should be OK.
In the future, testing the pH of the soil and/or potting mix before adding anything to change the pH is helpful. Knowing what to use and how much to use is much more precise when you know what the starting pH actually is. I prefer to send samples out for testing, but there are also home test kits and pH meters available. There is some variability between testing methods and testing labs. You’ll get more consistent results if you always use the same testing method or the same professional lab.
I hope your plants are OK. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CroakyOak Thank you very much.
What does the pH test out to be? I would suspect just pine and peat would be a bit lower than ideal pH but i could be wrong.
I’ve never had any of this blueberry potting mix tested. All the blueberry plants I have are in this mix and all of them are doing well. So, I’ve never had a reason to have the mix tested. Is it possible the pH of the mix is not ideal? Sure. But if that is the case, the variation isn’t enough to show up in the health of the plants themselves.
Thanks for viewing and asking a question.
Are the wire squares only important with berry plants?
I use the squares to block the drain holes on all my large containers regardless of what is planted in the container. The hardware cloth squares are for keeping vermin like mice, shrews, voles etc. from using the drain holes in a container as a burrow entrance.
I haven’t had any issues with these creatures burrowing into containers starting at the drain holes since I started using the hardware cloth squares to block the drain holes. This may not be necessary on containers with the drain hole(s) in a different location. But, I personally use them on all my pots seven gallons and larger regardless of the location of the drain hole(s). They also have the added benefit of keeping any potting mix from coming out of the drain holes.
You don’t *need* to use them to grow blueberries in containers. However, my experience has been that small animals are *far* more likely to damage or destroy my plants -especially the blueberries- than all other issues combined and the hardware cloth squares are an easy solution to that particular problem.
Good luck with your plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
How big is your pot and I assume one plant per pot?
The pot in this video is a 25 gallon Gro Pro brand pot.
Correct, one plant per pot. Even with a 25 gallon pot, I still try to pick blueberry varieties that are physically smaller plants once they mature.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Where did you get the mini shovel? I buy the kids toy metal tools from aldis every year because they end up breaking but this would me awesome!
I got the shovel in the video at a local box store after seeing one in the cart of the person ahead of me in the checkout line. I believe this the the same model shovel I have:
uniontools.com/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=2679&SubFamilyId=419&FamilyId=411&LineId=398
I purchased mine several years ago and the store no longer carries this exact shovel. You might be able find one locally if you ask. But be careful shopping at box stores. Some of the shovels can be unbelievably, almost despicably chintzy.
Sneeboer tools are not cheap, but they are essentially bulletproof and worth the price. You may find yourself using the kid’s ‘toys’ yourself! 😃
sneeboerusa.com/product-category/childrens/
I have a fair number of Aldi garden tools myself. A few have been terrific for the price, others not so much. I’ve got a broken stainless steel hand spade I need to get welded back together. 🤨
Good luck finding what you’re looking for! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can pine shavings be used instead of bark?
Personally, I wouldn’t do that. From experience, I know pine shavings, saw dust, etc. will decompose too quickly and I doubt the pH of the wood is the same as the pH of the bark. And the proper (low) pH is critical when growing blueberries. When I prepare this mix, I’ve always pull out any pieces of wood that are mixed in with the bark.
More information can be found using the links in the description.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Will this work cloth grow pots too?
I’ve never tried using a cloth grow pot, but I can’t see any reason why you couldn’t at least try using one. There are however, a few caveats.
1.You’ll need a pretty big cloth pot. The smallest plastic pot I’ve ever used is 20 gallons. I now use 25 gallon pots because the added blueberry mix holds more water. Any container made from a porous material will dry out faster than a non-porous material like plastic.
2. Blueberries also have roots near the surface and I’m not sure if the exposed surface of a typical grow bag would be large enough or not.
3. What is the expected life of a cloth pot? A properly cared for blueberry plant can live for decades. How often do you want to be repotting the plant?
If I was going to try this I’d plant a dwarf variety. I think a half-high or highbush blueberry would out grow all the grow bags I’ve seen before the plant reaches is mature size.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do! Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is a n awesome video! And thank you for sharing the links to the equipment!
You are so welcome! Thanks for commenting.
Croaky, what is the frequency and amount of watering for this mix after planting??
I water my blueberries as needed. I stick a finger below the surface of the potting mix to feel if the plant needs to be watered or not. The mix drains fairly well so I’m not too concerned about overwatering. The mix also holds a fair amount of water so the plants don’t need to be watered everyday. If you live somewhere hot and dry, you’ll probably have to water more often.
Feel the mix right after a thorough watering and judge the need for water from there. Waiting until the mix is dry is -obviously- not a good idea. If you’ve done any gardening at all, getting a feel for the water needs of a blueberry plant won’t take much practice.
Good luck with your plants. And thanks for watching and commenting on a second video.
is this mixture one-third of each? You didnt specify the amount of each one in the bed.
The basic mix is:
1 part sphagnum peat moss
1 part pine bark mini nuggets
Then:
add enough water to wet thoroughly
Dry peat moss is slow to absorb water so *mixing* the water in while mixing the two ingredients is faster and easier than trying to saturate a pot full of dry mix. Trying to get a large pot full of bone dry mix to fully hydrate could take days.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
the ingridients in the blueberry are pinebark and peatmoss so that he has acid
Correct. The ingredients in this mix make the mix intrinsically acidic. The mix should stay acidic too, with little -probably none- acidification needed in the future.
This said, it never hurts to have a pH test done on the mix once in a while.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
What size container??
The container used in the video is a 25 gallon Gro-Pro brand pot.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can you use Cedar bark instead of Pine bark? none of the local sellers has Pine bark.
Unfortunately, I don’t know the answer to this question. The recipe demonstrated in this video comes from www.backyardberryplants.com. They are a grower/seller of blueberries and other berry plants. I have a link to their planting guide page in the description box. You could try contacting them with this question.
One of the keys to blueberries is keeping the ph low. If cedar bark is acidic it may well work. If you find an answer to this question and have the time to add the answer to this comment thread, please do so. This kind of information can help other backyard blueberry growers.
Thank you for asking and good luck with your plants!
@@CroakyOak So I did a little research and they say Cedar is very high in PH, and not to be used around vegetables, they say it will burn the veggies.
That’s good to know. Thanks for passing along the info.
Dont use cedar there is a desease that can be transfered from cedar to blueberries. i only use pine bark.
@@roccoconte2960 Thanks for helping, funny I cannot find Pine Bark anywhere not even on line unless I want to buy a potato chip bag size for 12 bucks. So the hunt continues.
What zone are you in?
USDA zone 4.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
No need for potting soil?
Nope. No soil whatsoever. This is a soilless mix that approximates the kind of material wild blueberries actually grow in. Blueberries thrive in conditions that would be a very poor place for most garden vegetables.
That said, plants in this mix do better when used in conjunction with the fertilizer I demonstrate in this video:
th-cam.com/video/kmBeD-V4IbA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks
You’re welcome. And thank you for watching and commenting.
I knew I'd find another purpose for my old cement mixer. 🤔
Lucky you! If you have a clean and functioning cement mixer, use it! A cement mixer will spare you from a tremendous about of physical labor. I’ve often thought about buying a cheap one myself.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Found it!
Excellent! I’m glad I could help. The potting mix and fertilizer really are a set.
Thanks again for watching and commenting.
This should help with nematodes too
This is the first time I’ve heard that. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Canadian Sphagnum peat moss makes a lower pH
Correct. Canadian sphagnum peat moss (usually the Premier brand) is what I use because that is what is available in my area.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Did not find any other planting information as promised.
There is a link to the backyardberryplants.com page containing planting information in the description.
Sir. What about adding a part of composted cow manure. Thank you.
To the best of my knowledge adding manure would not help and could actually have a detrimental effect on the plants. Blueberries actually thrive in soil/potting mix that is essentially unusable for growing regular garden vegetables.
There are links to more information in the description.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I think not use pearlite why ?
This mix approximates the native growing conditions for blueberries and perlite simply isn’t necessary.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
No update video? 🥺
Is there anything specific you’d want to hear about?
ohh and i did subscribed as well :)
Thanks again for commenting and subscribing!
Is this acidic?
Yes, very much so. This is a soilless mix recipe I got from the website listed in the comments.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Just wondering though, isn't sphagnum peat moss a very environmentally unsustainable product? Or am I thinking of the wrong sphagnum product?
Peat is at the very least a controversial subject. Interestingly, peat and sphagnum moss (often called peat moss) are not the same thing. Sphagnum moss is a common *component* in actual peat, but is not itself peat. Even though sphagnum moss is often called ‘peat moss’.
I think that some of the controversy surrounding the use of sphagnum peat moss for horticultural purposes comes from the conflation of ‘peat’ and ‘peat moss’.
If you define unsustainable as using a material faster than said material can be replenished, then everything I’ve read effectively says peat mining is unsustainable. Can the same thing be said about sphagnum peat moss? Quite possibly not. Unfortunately, almost all of the arguments for or against the use of sphagnum peat moss seem to be rooted in ideology not empirical data. Which makes a concrete answer to your original question almost impossible.
I realize this may not be much help. But the more I read on this subject, the less clear any answers become. Sigh . . .
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nosoil needed?????????
Nope. This is a soilless mix. Just sphagnum peat moss and pine bark mini nuggets.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@Croaky Hi! I’m wondering how your blueberry plants are doing and if you get good harvests from them? All my blueberry plants (first time gardener and first time planting blueberry plants) leaves have turned bright red and falling off by the day and I don’t know what’s causing it . Please help me. I used sphagnum peat moss mixed with compost to plant them in. I am going to lowes tomorrow to grab pine bark nuggets and will replants. I also used a water soluble fertilizer for acid loving plants. Please help me I don’t want my blueberry plants to die. thank you so much!
I honestly don’t know what is going on with your plants. What you’re describing is what my plants typically do in October(ish) when many other plants and trees are also getting ready for winter.
I have my doubts if fertilizer for acid loving plants is going to be able to significantly alter the pH of the potting mix. Repotting them in a different mix won’t hurt anything. Whether that’ll be enough to help your blueberry plants survive remains to been seen.
Making mistakes and/or having your garden do poorly is a great way to learn. If your plants die, you’ll know far more about what *not* to do than when you started. This may not be a fun way to learn, but it is effective. If your plants die don’t give up! Take what you’ve learned and try again.
I’ll be doing a vlog(s) starting in a week or so, which should answer you’re first question.
Good luck with your garden and thanks for watching and commenting.
You probably didn’t read link under this video.
Compost is a big NO for blueberry plants.
What is the mix write
The mix ratio is:
1 part sphagnum peat moss
1 part pine bark mini nuggets
There are links in the description to the grower/nursery where I got this recipe. You can get more of the specifics there. Thanks for commenting!
I just subscribed
Thank you! 😃
Hi
that third ingredient is top bins 😁
Thank you! Trying to wet out dry sphagnum peat moss after the pot is full is a near futile endeavor.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Oops! I used weed fabric to cover the holes - WISH I saw this video first.
Fabric is better than nothing.
1/4” and 1/8”(if you can find it) hardware cloth is a gardener’s friend. 😀
Good luck with your potted plants and thanks for watching and commenting.
No nutrients, no "living" soil. I don't get it.
Blueberries have unique growing requirements and only thrive in what is usually regarded as poor soil. Part of the challenge of growing blueberries is wrapping your head around just how different those soil conditions are versus those found in a typical vegetable garden.
This mix works well. I’ve been using it for years. Although it works best when paired with the fertilizer I presented in a different video on this channel.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Although I am new to blueberry growing, I trust this guy and agree with him because I have done tons of research on blueberry varieties, ph, how to grow and what soil combo to use and I can say his recipe for perfect blueberry soil is the same as the pro blueberry growers recommend, many of those channels specialize in blueberry farming so they know what they are talking about when recommending things specific for blueberries
NIIIIIIIICE
I’m glad you liked this video.
Thanks for watching and commenting.